Recycled Asphalt Driveway Joke

recycled asphalt driveway

Recycled asphalt driveway hype - This is what a recycled asphalt driveway would look like, but just a little darker. Don’t try pressure washing it! Copyright 2026 Tim Carter

Recycled Asphalt Driveway - Don't Fall For the Hype

I perform media scanning on a routine basis. I’m constantly on the lookout in publications and the Internet for new products, techniques, and hokum. I do this, in part, to keep my ear to the ground, but I also do it to help you save time and money.

I’ve been noticing a disturbing trend with some home improvement websites and social media. The websites appear to be hiring people with little, or no, hands-on experience in the topic they write about. Anyone who’s done the particular job can see right through the puff pieces these authors churn out. The articles have an over-arching unicorns and rainbows theme about how good and easy something is.

The most recent trend talks about using recycled asphalt as an affordable substitute for a concrete or hot-asphalt driveway. But before I go into this, allow me to share a similar DIY trend about creating concrete walkways, slabs, or patios. When I saw this one several years ago, I knew the poor-quality concrete would fail.

Several years ago it was all the rage to watch a video on YouTube showing someone dumping bags of dry concrete mix inside of wood forms. The person on camera would use a straightedge to smooth off the powdery mix so it was flush with the top of the forms.

The next step was to mist the concrete mix with water. The entire point of this process was to avoid the hard work of mixing the concrete in a wheelbarrow, dumping it into the forms, spreading it out with a concrete rake, and then taking the time to screed, bull float, and finish the concrete.

I watched these videos, some have hundreds of thousands of views, knowing the concrete would crumble in the very near future. This is especially true if the concrete was exposed to repeated freeze/thaw cycles.

Here’s why that concrete shortcut was foolhardy. The biggest reason failure was guaranteed is that the water from the hose was removing much of the Portland cement from the top layer of the concrete. The water was pulling that cement down deeper into the dry mix. The cement is needed at the surface to bond the sand and gravel together. High cement content at the surface prevents spalling and scaling. Remember, the cement is the glue that holds together the sand and gravel in your concrete. You need the cement paste to coat each piece of sand and gravel so the cement crystals interlock much like Velcro™.

The second reason the concrete would fall apart is the person misting the concrete has no idea if they’re adding the right amount of water. Concrete scientists will tell you that strong concrete requires a very important ratio of cement powder to the amount of water added to the mix. Ready-mix concrete plants have computers that ensure the right amount of water is added so the concrete achieves the correct strength.

Let’s talk about recycled asphalt now. Thousands of miles of primary roadways in the USA are made using hot-mix asphalt. It’s similar to concrete. Hot-mix asphalt has three primary ingredients: stones, sand, and liquid asphalt cement. These are mixed in a huge drum so the asphalt cement coats the stones and sand. When the hot-mixture cools down and the lightweight oils evaporate from the mix, the resulting surface is very hard and durable. The sticky asphalt cement bonds the sand and gravel together.

You know this if you have an asphalt driveway. You can pressure wash it and not cause any visible damage. Concrete is even stronger. Neither of these pavements create dust when you drive on them, and they don’t rut in wet weather.

Recycled asphalt is created when it’s time to repave a roadway. A giant grinding machine equipped with hundreds of carbide tips grinds and planes the roadway surface. Think of a massive belt sander on steroids. The milling process grinds up the old asphalt paving breaking the bonds created by the asphalt cement years before when the paving was put down.

The grinding process can also happen at a remote site. Some repaving contractors will dig out old asphalt paving in huge pieces and drop them into a dump truck. This material is taken to a remote dumping ground where the chunks of asphalt paving are dumped into a machine that pulverizes it. Think of a massive food processor you might use in your kitchen to mince onions or other vegetables.

This crushed asphalt can be bought. Here in New Hampshire, the cost of the recycled asphalt is about the same per ton as regular crushed gravel. Both materials can be used for a driveway. I’ve used both on a 1/2-mile driveway I use to access a 90-acre tract of undeveloped land I own.

The proponents of recycled asphalt say the material will establish some bonds once it’s compacted and the summer sun heats it up. This may happen on a small scale, but I’ve not seen it happen on my driveway.

Heavy rain can wash the recycled asphalt away. You can’t hose it off or use a pressure washer on it. Driving on this material in dry weather can create clouds of dust. In the absence of a thick base material under the recycled asphalt, rutting is guaranteed in wet weather.

The bottom line is this. If you’re tempted to buy into some shortcut method you see online, go seek out places where the material has been in place for two or four years. Don’t hope for great results when you take a shortcut!

Column 1657

Countertop Layout Tool

granite countertop with placemat and painter's tape

This placemat, painter’s tape, a tape measure, and your island or countertop allow you to know if the vessel sink and faucet will work together. Copyright 2026 Tim Carter

Countertop Layout Tool - Simple Hack

I’ve shared in past columns how I’m helping my son finish off about 1,200 square feet of his basement. I’m saving him over $100,000 in labor and profit costs had he hired a contractor. I’m also confident he and I are doing a much better job. After all, I’m investing time, my skills, and a wheelbarrow full of love into the project!

We can only work on Saturdays. I’ve worked alone on some Fridays when I can do things myself, like finish drywall, run electrical cables, install plumbing pipes, and apply paint to walls and woodwork. The project has been underway for just about two years. The end is but a month away.

The only things left to do are install the speakeasy bar cabinets, the bathroom vanity, and all of the countertops. The bathroom countertop required a considerable amount of thought and planning. My son has decided on a vessel sink with an offset faucet.

Vessel sinks come in different sizes. I asked him to use his current vanity sink bowls as a guide. These sinks are oval-shaped. I wanted him to determine if his hands felt cramped in the sink while he washed them.

That experiment produced fast and simple results. He told me in a text that a 16-inch-diameter vessel sink would be perfect. Furthermore, he said that a 6-inch depth would suffice. He was able to locate one of that exact size that he loved.

I then asked him to start looking at vessel-sink faucets. The faucet needs to have a long spout so the flow of water is towards the center of the sink. You don’t want your hands banging against the side of the sink as you wash them. This might happen if the spout is too short.

I reminded my son about the wonderful vessel sink I made for the basement bathroom in our last house in Cincinnati, Ohio. I found a wonderful old copper bowl with a rich patina. My wife loved it. I punched a hole in the center of the bottom to accommodate the sink drain.

The faucet was ideal. The faucet looked like it was made from bamboo stalks. The water shot out of the end of the spout much like a miniature waterfall. In this case, the spout could be a bit smaller because the water cascaded out about 3 inches beyond the end of the spout.

Next up, I told him to take some painter’s tape and create an outline of his stone vanity top. He created a rectangle on his island countertop using the tape. The outline was 31 inches wide and 22 inches deep. This produced a 1-inch overhang on the front and left side of the vanity cabinet.

He was lucky to have a 16-inch-diameter placemat. That was used as a prop for the sink. I had him make sure the front edge of the placemat was the same distance from the front of his existing vanity top to the front of his existing vanity sink.

This showed he had plenty of room behind the placemat for both a stone backsplash and the faucet. Some faucets are too big, or the handle interferes with the wall behind the sink. This is why you often see the faucet offset to the right or left of centerline of the vessel sink.

My son decided to offset his faucet so there would be no conflict, and it would be much easier to operate the faucet handle.

You also need to be aware of the height of the faucet spout above the countertop. The spout must be able to pass over the vessel sink with at least an inch of clearance. My recommendation is to purchase the vessel sink and know exactly how high it is off the countertop. Don’t hope the measurement given on a website is correct.

He’s decided to use a clever pop-down sink drain. This adds to the sleek design since you don’t have a clumsy pull rod at the faucet that operates a hidden lever inside the cabinet. Pop-down drains, in my opinion, are superior to the pop-up drains. They are available in a multitude of finishes and are very easy to install and maintain.

My guess is you never thought so much planning goes into a simple bathroom sink! The issue is that the stone top, the vessel sink, and the faucet all add up to an eye-opening amount. You can’t hope it all works out. You must take the time to do what I just outlined above.

Column 1656

Septic Tank Too High

septic tank near garage

Those green discs in the straw are service lids to a septic tank that was installed too high. This preventable error caused the sewage line from the house to the tank to not have the required pitch as called for in the plumbing code. Copyright 2026 Tim Carter

Septic Tank Too High - Idiot Installer

My best friend in Cincinnati, Ohio, Richard Andersen, had his septic tank installed too low. This story is about installing a septic tank too high.

I’m about to share an incredible story about Jennifer’s new $20,000.00 septic tank that failed in the first year. You may not care about septic tanks, but this column may save you tens of thousands of dollars should you be building a new home, adding a room addition to your home, installing a new roof, or contracting for any other major project.

Jennifer arranged a consult call with me to discuss her septic tank dilemma. Her old septic system was not designed to handle the soggy soil in her leach field rendering the system unusable for six months out of the year.

The contractor she hired was licensed by the state of Ohio. Ohio has a great law that requires sewage treatment installers to post a surety bond as a condition of having a valid license. This bond is very similar to an insurance policy. Should the installer break the law or fail to meet code requirements, the customer can file a claim. But realize there’s often a time limit. Fortunately, Jennifer has sixty days to file a claim.

The root of the problem is the new system was installed too high out of the ground. The sewage line from the house to the tank was almost flat. This violates the Ohio code. In addition to not having enough fall so sewage makes it to the tank, the 4-inch pipe only had 4 inches of soil cover. The line froze this winter in Ohio’s bitter winter.

The county inspector didn’t do his job because he should have caught this pipe-slope error. Jennifer says he no longer works for the county. It’s no wonder!

The contractor said he’d install a lift pump, but Jennifer was responsible for paying for the fix. The lift pump may overwhelm the leach field as it was designed for a gravity system. This is when I got involved.

It appears Jennifer has a very strong case to file a valid bond claim because of the errors of both the contractor and the county. The first step is for Jennifer to obtain an inspection from the county that they put in writing showing the code violations. This letter is attached to the claim filed with the bond company.

The second step is for Jennifer to obtain an independent plan from a licensed septic designer showing exactly how the new system should have been installed. The design her contractor used to get the permit may have been fine, but he failed to do enough homework to discover if the sewage line could be installed according to code.

What does all this have to do with you? I can answer that with another short story. The day before I talked with Jennifer, I was on a video consult call with Mike. He’s building a new home in the mountains west of Denver, Colorado.

Mike was asking me if the master bedroom ductwork was installed correctly. It appeared to me, using photos he provided, that the main duct that feeds the flex ducts was not designed to maintain even static pressure with all the outlets in the room. It’s quite important for the static pressure to be equal so he and his wife can sleep comfortably.

Mike should have had an HVAC designer design the ductwork. He should have known before the foundation was poured exactly what was going to happen and that everything would be correct.

I know what you’re thinking. “Tim, I don’t know about septic tanks. I don’t know about how much fall a sewage line should have. I don’t know about static pressure. I don’t know about ANYTHING that has to do with home construction.”

Guess what? I’ve badmouthed artificial intelligence (AI) for the past two years. However, I must say that AI can be your digital general contractor and answer all the questions you might have to make sure any job you’re doing is done right.

Let’s say you’re having a new front door installed. Here’s how easy it is to formulate your question. Type this into Perplexity, Grok.com, or ChatGPT: “I’m having a new front door installed. It’s a (INSERT THE MODEL AND MANUFACTURER). Please share with me all of the important steps that are required to install the door correctly so it works fine, and the warranty is valid.”

Here’s what I typed into the Perplexity AI engine just before I wrote this column to see what it had to say about Jennifer’s conundrum: “I had a new septic tank installed in Ohio. The contractor had a bond that was required by the county. He installed the tank too high. The contractor is not willing to redo the job and is asking me for more money. Isn't that the purpose of the bond? Isn't the bond in place to ensure the job is done correctly? Should I contact the bond company, and what is required to get them to pay to have the job done right?”

You can do this with any job you’re about to hire a contractor for. You can even do this for any DIY job! AI might give you a fantastic set of instructions.

To double-check the AI accuracy, you can then have me check what it has to say! I’m just a phone or video call away. You and I need to do all of this before you sign a contract with the person you intend to hire.

Column 1655

DIY Boiler Service

owner's manual boiler in background

DIY Boiler Service - Have you taken the time to read the maintenance section of your owner’s manuals? Trust me, you should. You’ll save thousands of dollars. Copyright 2026 Tim Carter

DIY Boiler Service - Easy if You Have the Tools

Several days ago, I found myself without heat and hot water at 6 PM just as I was washing dinner dishes. My propane-fired modulating combi boiler, which does double duty, heating the house and my hot water, decided to stop working. It’s still chilly in central New Hampshire, where I live. The fan that sucks in combustion air and blows out exhaust gases stopped spinning. The sensors and internal computer lock out the boiler burner when this happens.

It could have been much worse. It could have been 15 degrees F outdoors instead of 50F. I was stunned that the next morning, I couldn’t locate a replacement fan assembly in all of New England. I was prepared to drive 250 miles one way to get the part. The closest business that had it was in Illinois. I had the replacement fan in my hands within 24 hours. Thank you to all the UPS employees who made this possible. It was well worth the $140.00 overnight delivery fee.

It turns out there are only two moving parts in my boiler - this fan and a valve that shunts hot water to the sink faucets or the heating loops. I can assure you that I’ll now have both of these parts on a shelf in my mechanical room should I have another issue.

What’s the teaching moment here? There are several, in my opinion. First, I feel you should have a good feeling about the availability of parts for your critical systems in your home. How many residential boilers do you think are in New England? The number has to approach one million, maybe more. Can you imagine my shock to discover that not one of the major parts distributors stocked this fan assembly, knowing that it’s one of the two moving parts in a very common boiler?

Have Parts Onhand

You might want to have a discussion with your HVAC technician, plumber, or electrician to discover if you’re in a situation as I found myself. You may live where air conditioning (AC) is required for many months of the year. If so, I recommend you discover what size start-up capacitors provide the power to get your compressor working. Have those parts in a plastic bag hanging on your electric panel for when you’ll need them.

Heat, air conditioning, and hot water are basic creature comforts many depend on. I know my sweet wife loves a hot shower each morning. She also doesn’t want to feel like an ice cube when exiting the shower.

There was little I could do to prevent this fan failure. There were no odd noises or squealing bearings to indicate the fan was having trouble. The fan just locked up. That said, there are many things you and I should do each week, month, or year to keep our mechanical systems in great shape so they rarely fail.

Preventative Maintenance a Must

Have you ever taken a few minutes to read the maintenance section of the owner’s manual for all your equipment? You should. Here’s just one thing from my boiler manual. My boiler has a condensate trap. The manual says to clean it out every year. It’s very simple to do. You don’t need to be a technician.

However, if you fail to clean it out and the drain line gets clogged with tiny bits of sediment, the boiler will malfunction. It’s so simple to set up reminders on your electronic calendar to receive a notification when to do the task. The calendars are so sophisticated that you can match up the exact day to when you know you’ll have the time to do it. The repair bill, should you forget, could be hundreds of dollars, maybe even thousands.

Whole-House Water Filter

Here’s another story of mine. I have well water. It’s smart to have a whole-house filter to capture tiny flakes of rock that might otherwise end up in my faucet aerators or the toilet fill valve. The paper filter needs to be changed every six months. It’s easy to do. You don’t have to be a plumber.

Should you forget to change the 5-micron filter, your water pressure drops, nasty rust stains appear in all your toilets, and the water is unhealthy to drink. Once again, I use my electronic calendar to send an alert every six months. I even have a pre-alert set up. This alert says, “Hey Tim, you MUST change the water filter in a week.”

You should do the same if you have a forced-air heating and cooling system. Change your filters as it states in your owner’s manual. You should check your exterior AC compressor to ensure the cooling fins are clear of all debris. Leaves, dirt, etc. that clog the tiny spaces between the fins can cause premature failure of this very expensive machine!

Clean Refrigerator Coils

How about your refrigerator and freezer? Do you clean the cooling coils on those every three months? Once again, lean on your electronic calendar to let you know. Appliance repairs are expensive. It costs hundreds of dollars just to get the repairman to show up. The price of parts will take your breath away. Keeping the coils clean will allow your refrigeration equipment to run at peak performance.

The same is true for your clothes dryer. Dryer fires are very common. You must clean the lint filter after each load. Even if you do that, lint still can clog the exhaust pipe. What’s more, tiny pieces of lint that do escape to the exterior of your home can be a problem. If you have the fresh-air intake near your dryer exhaust vent, lint can be pulled into your tankless water heater, furnace, or boiler intake pipes!

Much of this is common sense. You can do almost all of the things required to keep all your equipment in top order. You just have to take the time to read the owner’s manual and set up the calendar alerts. Good luck!

Column 1664

Why is My House So Cold

electric radiant floor mat

Why is My House So Cold? This is the electric radiant floor mat that's heating my man cave ham radio shack. It's a great DIY project. CLICK HERE or the photo above to order your own NuHeat Electric Floor Heat Mat.

Why is My House So Cold?

Tell the truth. Are there days in the winter when your heating system can’t provide the heat you need to keep you comfortable? What about your AC system? Are there blistering, hot summer days when you feel like a simmering sausage in a skillet?

You may not want to hear this, but it’s normal for this to happen. Your heating and cooling contractor may not have told you the truth, so I’ll be his proxy.

Several weeks ago, I was on the phone with a man who lives in the Midwest. He purchased one of my short consult calls. He wanted to know why his condominium was cold and drafty when it was below zero Fahrenheit.

He mentioned a cold draft of moving air in his kitchen. It turns out he’s got three very large windows in the room. I explained that the moving air was a convection current where the room air was hitting the cold inner pane of glass. This chilled air then fell down to the floor, much like water flowing over a waterfall.

A Waterfall of Cold Air

He wasn’t feeling the outside air infiltrating through the windows. Stand in this pathway, and it will feel like a breeze. The cold air pushes warmer room air back up to the top of the windows. Try to picture a sideways, invisible merry-go-round in your home.

I shared with this man that heating and cooling design in residential homes is by far the most complex aspect of home building. A true professional HVAC contractor will enter all sorts of data about the wall insulation thickness, window sizes, compass direction of the house walls, door sizes, total exterior wall surface area, attic insulation thickness, etc. into a computer program. The software will then spit out heat loss and heat gain results in BTUs per hour. This should be done on a room-by-room basis.

The contractor has to tell the software where the house is located and what the desired interior temperatures should be. This is because two identical houses in different cities can require very different furnaces and AC units. A house in northern Minnesota requires much more heat per hour on a given day than the exact same house in Alabama.

Don't Oversize HVAC Equipment

I know what you might be thinking. You’ll just tell your contractor to oversize the furnace and AC unit so you’re always comfortable. It’s a mistake to do this because the equipment would short-cycle. In the winter, the blast of hot air coming out of your supply ducts would fool the thermostat, telling it that the room is warm enough when, in fact, there is still cold air in the room.

An AC system that short cycles doesn’t run long enough to remove enough humidity from the air. You then end up with a house that’s cold and clammy.

My advice to the homeowner was simple. The easiest thing to do is to wear more clothes on the coldest days. I do that in my own home. I often wear long underwear, a knit hat, and a hoodie sweatshirt that keeps my neck warm. While it may seem odd, I can tell you I’m toasty warm on those bitter winter days.

I then shared that he could purchase affordable portable oil-filled electric radiators. These would create additional heat to offset the heat loss in the cold rooms he’s occupying.

Radiant Floor Heating is Amazing

If you're remodeling or even building a new home, you might want to consider adding radiant heat mats under bathroom flooring. This heat will not only help make the room nice and warm, but your bare feet will touch a soothing, warm surface instead of you doing a dance trying to get onto a throw rug as you step out of the shower.

The ductwork that supplies the heated and cooled air must also be designed and installed with great care. Each room must have enough heat and cooling to offset the heat loss and heat gain for that room.

The rooms farthest from the furnace must have air flowing from the supply duct as strongly as the room closest to the furnace. This is achieved by maintaining the same static pressure in the duct system along its entire length.

Don’t assume everything will be done correctly when you build. I urge you to have a conversation with your builder and include the HVAC contractor if possible. Discuss everything I’ve shared above and see if you get any pushback from the builder or HVAC contractor.

It’s very difficult to remedy ductwork that’s not sized correctly once a house is built. You get one chance to get it right. This is why the Ask the Builder motto is “Do it Right, Not Over!”

Column 1654

A Beam From the Annie Hodges Schooner?

A Mystery Beam From the Annie Hodges Schooner?

Publisher Note: The following content was generated and contributed by Ms. Margaret Acquarulo and her son. Margaret reached out to me after reading a column I wrote. The column topic dealt with old tradesmen who were so proud of their work that they signed it. CLICK HERE to read that column.

The Writing in the Living Room

When the workers on a rowhouse renovation on E. Clement Street in Baltimore removed the ceiling, there was some cryptic writing on one of the old beams:

Knowles – Sch Hodges

old floor joists in Baltimore home

You can see the script on the floor joist. No normal carpenter would go to this trouble unless it were a special piece of timber.

After unsuccessfully searching for schools (Sch?) with the names Hodges or Knowles, an article in the Baltimore Sun provided a clue as to what this might mean. Ships coming into and departing from the port were routinely listed in the newspaper at the time the house was built in 1875. The abbreviation for a schooner was “Schr,” and there was in fact an oyster schooner called “Annie Hodges.”

Ship Building in Baltimore

Baltimore was a center for shipbuilding throughout the 1800s. The Inner Harbor was lined with shipbuilders and dry docks. Most of the streets in the area went directly to the water. Just a short walk from E. Clement Street, there was a shipyard on the northeast side of Federal Hill where the Ritz Carlton and Harborview communities are today. The Key Highway shipyard began when brothers Jeremiah and William Skinner Jr. -- boat builders -- came to Baltimore from Dorchester County, Maryland, in the 1820s. In 1845, William sold his interest in the company to his brother and purchased his own yard on Cross Street. William’s boatyard became famous for its sailing ships and probably built Baltimore’s first clipper ship.
When William died, his brother and sons took over the business and renamed the company the Wm. Skinner and Sons Shipbuilding and Drydock Company, eventually growing it into a 35-acre complex. The company continued to prosper during the Civil War by meeting the greater demand for all types of sailing vessels.

There is no suggestion or evidence that the Skinner shipyard built the Annie Hodges; yet it is certainly possible. It was the closest shipyard to E. Clement Street, and the builder of the house may have sourced some of his materials from shipbuilders.

Key Highway shipyards 1968
The Annie Hodges

The schooner Annie Hodges was built in 1872 in Baltimore, three years before the house was built. A schooner is a sailing vessel with two or more masts; on a two-masted schooner, the shorter mast is forward. The Annie Hodges measured 61 feet in length, 21.8 feet across the beam, and 6.1 in depth. Its weight was 47.75 gross tons and 45.36 net tons.

The Annie Hodges’ initial home port was Baltimore until 1903. It was next based in Crisfield, Maryland on the Eastern Shore from 1904 to 1909, then it ended its life based in Bridgeton, N.J. from 1909 to 1913. After 1913 it is no longer listed in the Merchant Vessels of the United States annual publication. Regardless of where it was based, however, it was a merchant ship and would have spent most of its time sailing up and down the Chesapeake Bay.

Various news articles provide a look at the life and activities of the Annie Hodges:

  • On September 22, 1876, Charles Wacker and R. N. Dobon, owners of the Annie Hodges, were issued a license to dredge for oysters. Two years prior, then captain John M. Grey had been fined $50 for oyster dredging on Cooks Point, Great Choptank River, without a license.
  • In 1885, a news article listed the owner of the ship as C.D. Walker. From at least 1878 to 1899 its captain was R.N. Dolbow. Dolbow had an interest in at least one other vessel, the schooner Agnos, which he and C.W. Simpkins bought from P.C. Struven in 1881.
  • Reuben N. Dolbow, who was born in New Jersey in 1843, drowned in the Patuxent River on January 10, 1890. One source claimed that the death occurred when the oyster schooner, Annie Hodges, sank off Cove Point, Maryland. Captain Dolbow was 47 and had lived in Baltimore for 25 years, leaving behind a wife and four children.
  • On February 9, 1891, the new captain of the Annie Hodges, T.E. Dougherty, saw a large whale off the Thimble Light.
  • Mike Krigger, a member of the Annie Hodges crew, accused the mate, Joseph E. Lawrence (or Laurence) of assault by hitting him in the face. Lawrence testified that Krigger was one of several crew members who cursed him and refused to go to work. Lawrence claimed that he merely shoved Krigger away; the case was dismissed on October 27, 1898.
  • The Annie Hodges made national news on February 21, 1899 when some of its crew members were feared dead. After approximately 50 ships left Baltimore on January 23, they were hemmed in by ice in the Patuxent River. When a blizzard arose, fuel and provisions were low, and the captain, whose name was Watson, put the crew ashore to make their way to Annapolis. They were given shelter at the Annapolis station house, but four of the group had frozen to death on the way and were left in the snow. The owner of the ship was listed as Struven & Wacker.
  • William T. Hooper of Hooper’s Island, Maryland was featured in an article in 1981 about his life as a waterman. He had signed on as the cook of the Annie Hodges – one of three crew members – in 1902 when he was 17. He noted that the ships traveled from Baltimore to Philadelphia carrying freight in the late summer and early fall and did most of their oyster dredging in the winter and spring.
  • A lawsuit was heard on February 26, 1914, launched by then master and owner Sherman Hager. The Annie Hodges – described as a fishing and oyster vessel – had been damaged in a collision with the tug Prudence and barge Dorothy the night of June 18, 1912. Hager was trying to recover an amount for damage to his ship. This may have been the event that retired the Annie Hodges.

Origin of the Beam

The connection between Knowles and the house or the Annie Hodges is unknown. It was a fairly common name in the area at the time. Knowles may have been involved in the building of the house or of the ship. Two possibilities for how this beam came to be in the house are:

  • It was a beam meant for the ship when it was built three years before the house but deemed not sturdy enough. The strength of the wooden beam of a ship was crucial for the ship's stability and ability to carry cargo. Beams were tested during the building of a ship through a visual inspection for cracks and by tapping or probing with a screwdriver to detect decay. If this wooden beam failed its test for the ship, it may still have been useful for a house. The 21.8-foot beam of the Annie Hodges was more than long enough to span the 12-foot width of the house.
  • The beam was removed from the ship and repurposed after the ship suffered some damage. The Baltimore Sun reported on January 17, 1885 that the Annie Hodges incurred $250 in repairs from the loss of both masts in a strong wind while bound down the Chesapeake Bay on January 12. This, of course, was ten years after the house was built, but it raises the possibility that other damage could have occurred earlier.

Types of Construction Defects

fresh concrete slab being troweled by a worker

Types of Construction Defects - This concrete mason is doing an excellent job of placing and finishing the patio at my son’s house. No extra water was added to the concrete at the jobsite. Copyright 2026 Tim Carter

Types of Construction Defects

This column is all about types of construction defects and misplaced hope. You can lose thousands of dollars, and sometimes tens of thousands of dollars, should you make this mistake.

I do at least five short consult calls each week. The common denominator in almost all of the calls is that the homeowner trusted that the contractor was going to do the job the right way. I get it, believe me, I do. I trust the mechanic is going to fix my truck when I take it in for service.

Furnace Exhaust Pipe Disconnected in Attic

I was on a very serious call two weeks ago. The homeowner lives in the upper Midwest. He had a new roof installed two years ago. This man went up to his attic about a month ago for the first time since the roof was installed.

He discovered that the roofers disconnected his furnace exhaust pipe, which used to exit the roof. The roofers then patched the hole and installed shingles over it. The furnace exhausted into this man’s attic for two years.

The entire underside of the roof sheathing was pitch black with mold and mildew. It covered the roof rafters. Months of toxic condensation dripped down the rafters and saturated the fiberglass insulation. It was a miracle that the homeowner and his family didn’t die from carbon monoxide poisoning.

The owner of the roofing company had no idea this happened. His crews didn’t tell him. He and his insurance company are in the process of repairing all the damage. This homeowner dodged the bullet.

How could this have been avoided? If the entire roof is visible from the ground, the homeowner could have taken his own before-and-after photographs. If the roof was not visible, the homeowner could have asked the roofer to take before-and-after photos. A video-equipped drone could have been used by the homeowner to record before-and-after videos.

The homeowner could have also poked his head up into the attic before he paid the roofer. He might have spotted debris on the insulation, the disconnected vent pipes, and other issues. He didn’t because he trusted the job was done right.

New Concrete Patio Spalls and Crumbles

I had another consult with a woman who lives in upstate New York. She had a new concrete patio and two sets of concrete steps installed just six months ago. The concrete is spalling and deteriorating. This woman is heartbroken. The contractor said he can try to repair it, but with no guarantee.

I have no less than twenty past columns on my website about how to install concrete the proper way so it doesn’t deteriorate for over 100 years. This woman could have read all those columns before she signed a contract with the contractor. She would have known exactly how the concrete should have been mixed, placed, finished, and cured to ensure it would not crumble or spall.

Instead, she trusted the work would be done correctly. She hoped everything would work out well and that the contractor had her best interests at heart. You must vet contractors before you sign contracts to ensure they know what to do. Many contractors today don’t have the same mindset as the contractors of old.

You have to realize the height of the bar to be a concrete contractor is so low that a mouse could jump over it with ease. There’s no proficiency testing required. You can go out yourself and have business cards printed up saying you’re a concrete mason even though you’ve never placed and finished one square foot of concrete.

I hate to admit it, but it’s become very easy in the past two years to do the research about how things should be done. This is one instance where artificial intelligence (AI) shines. I’m not a fan of AI, but it does do this job well for the time being.

This woman could have gone to grok.com and typed: “I live in upstate New York. I want a contractor to install a new concrete patio and steps. I don’t want them to spall or deteriorate. I want them to resist damage from deicing salt. How should the concrete be mixed, placed, finished, and cured so cold weather is not an issue?”

The AI engine, in seconds, would have given the woman the exact strength the concrete should be, how to place it without adding extra water, and how to finish and cure it.

She could have also received personal one-on-one advice by chatting with me on the phone. I beg you to stop placing hope in contractors. Research how a job should be done, how the materials should be installed, etc., before you even call a contractor to get bids.

Column 1653

Spackling and Caulking Tips

spackled finish nail holes in wood door trim

The two white spots are finish nail holes covered with far too much spackling compound. Material has been wasted, and extra sanding will be required to get ready to paint. Copyright 2026 Tim Carter

Spackling and Caulking Tips

I’ve been sharing with you the wonderful saga of my son’s basement remodeling project in past columns. Together, he and I have transformed 1,100 square feet of bare basement into five large rooms and a full bathroom. We’ve done all the work ourselves, and only work on Saturdays.

It’s now time to paint the baseboards, door trim, and the doors. All of that material came primed from the factory, so that saves us a step.

That said, hours of work need to be invested before we pop open the can of semi-gloss white paint we’ll use. We have to spackle hundreds of finish nail holes, and we have to caulk hundreds of feet of tiny cracks along the trim to achieve professional results.

This preparation work requires much more skill than what the average person might think is necessary. A few days ago, I witnessed what happens when you don’t take the time to do things right.

I try to keep my golf swing in shape over the harsh New Hampshire winters. I do that each week by playing a round of golf on an advanced simulator at my local course. The owner is doing extensive remodeling of the interior of the building before the season opens in April.

A new door and trim were installed at the Men’s restroom entrance over the past two weeks. Days ago, a worker spackled the finish nail holes. It looks like to me he applied the paste with a snow shovel instead of a 1-inch-wide flexible putty knife. Extra spackle was left all around each nail hole, and he didn’t fill the nail holes completely.

I also saw an amateur attempt at applying caulk where the trim touches up against the new drywall. The caulk was smeared with all sorts of excess caulk left on both the trim and the drywall. It was a mess.

The process of applying both spackle and caulk requires a pinch of hand-eye coordination mixed with attention to detail. I’ve come to the conclusion that many who work with these materials have never been trained. I feel they’ve not been taught the steps required to achieve professional results.

Spackle is fairly easy to apply. Premixed spackling compound is much like drywall joint compound. It’s the consistency of cool cake icing. I feel you get the best results working with a small, flexible putty knife when spackling small finish nail holes.

You should use a non-shrink spackle compound. These water-based products are available at most home centers and high-end paint stores. Your goal is to apply just enough spackle to fill the nail hole.

I use the following technique. I use the putty knife to get about 1/4 teaspoon of spackle from the container. There’s no need to load up the putty knife with lots of excess spackle.

I then press the spackle into the nail hole by flexing the putty knife blade. I try to force the spackle in as far as possible. There is excess on the trim at this point. I then remove the excess with a stroke that’s perpendicular to the direction I applied it. The goal is to have no excess spackle on the wood trim. This makes sanding much easier once the spackle is dry.

I always use a sponge-filled sanding block to sand the spackled holes. Use one with the finest grit so you don’t leave scratches in the wood trim. Brush off the dust before you paint.

Caulking is more difficult than spackling, in my opinion. It’s critical you apply the perfect amount of caulk to the crack. This is done by controlling the size of the hole in the tip of the caulk tube, and regulating the rate of fill by the amount of pressure applied to squeeze the caulk from the tube as well as moving the caulk tube along the crack. Move the tube too fast along the crack, and not enough caulk is in the crack. Move too slow, and excess caulk oozes out around the tip. You also need to hold the caulk gun/tube at a low, oblique angle.

I should also mention there’s a big difference in the quality of caulk guns. The cheap ones cause the plunger to push into the caulk tube too fast. These guns typically have notches on the plunger rod. I use a gun that has a smooth plunger rod. The plunger only travels a very short distance as I slowly squeeze the gun handle. It’s a dream to use.

Your proficiency can rise to the level where there is no excess caulk to wipe off with your finger or a smoothing tool. That’s your goal. It can take many hours of practice to achieve results like this. You’ll probably have some excess as you wipe your finger across the fresh caulk. Don’t allow the excess to wrap around your finger. Pull your finger away and use the excess to fill the crack that’s yet to be caulked.

Once you’ve smoothed the caulk, you now wipe the joint with a damp grout sponge. You want to remove all traces of caulk except for what’s in the crack. Don’t press too hard, or you’ll dig out caulk, creating a recess.

My recommendation is for you to practice caulking before you advance to the trim you just installed at your home. Glue a few pieces of scrap trim to a scrap piece of drywall. Practice filling the cracks where the trim ends on the drywall. Soon you’ll get the hang of using your gun and the sponge.

Column 1652

Drone Home Inspection

drone photo of new home wood walls

This is a new home being built in Altadena, CA. The original house succumbed to the Eaton wildfire in January of 2025. A video-equipped drone allows the owner to track and curate construction progress. Copyright 2026 David Werntz Wings by Werntz

Drone Home Inspection

Thirteen months ago, my very good friends Steve and Karin were going about their daily lives in their wonderful home in Altadena, California. Several years before, I had visited for a week. Steve and I plowed through a long honey-do list. I donated my time to Steve to help pay back all the work he does to maintain my Ask the Builder website.

Our improvements, along with the magnificent house, were destroyed in the Eaton wildfire. Steve and Karin only had 30 minutes’ notice to evacuate. Red-hot embers were swirling all around their house. Everything that couldn’t be crammed into their two small cars was consumed by the voracious flames. This is what flying embers look like at nighttime:

I’ll never forget the next day when Steve sent me a photo of what remained of his home. A neighbor was able to sneak past the blockades to capture the devastation. Steve could only muster up two words for the photo caption: “Not good.” I was heartbroken to say the least. More than fifty homes in this subdivision burned to the ground.

house destroyed by eaton wildfire altadena ca

This is the rear of Steve's house. The Eaton wildfire took no prisoners.

The good news is that the rebuilding process started in earnest about two months ago. Twenty-four of the 50+ homes that were consumed by the wildfire are being rebuilt by one builder/developer in an assembly-line fashion. Steve and Karin's house is in this group. The construction, once started is progressing at a frenzied pace. Within two weeks of Steve's slab being poured, his house is almost ready for roof trusses. Look:

new home framing drone photo altadena ca

The builder has an experienced crew framing Steve's new house. The daily progress is almost unbelieveable. Photo credit: David Werntz Copyright 2026

. Many houses in the subdivision survived the flames. One of them is owned by Dave, a close friend of Steve’s. Dave’s house is but 300 feet from Steve’s. Dave is a small-plane flight instructor and also flies drones as a hobby. Visit his website Wings by Werntz.

Dave has been keeping Steve up to date on the construction progress by flying his drone up to the construction site. Steve is living in a rental house about fifty miles away. I get to see all the photos and videos created by the high-resolution camera on the drone. I’m stunned by the clarity and how Dave can pilot the drone down close to capture very small details. The drone technology is almost unbelievable.

You can use a drone to help you keep in touch with those parts of your home you can’t inspect without violating the laws of gravity. I used to have little fear of climbing ladders and walking on roofs. Those days are over as I’ve lost my nerve to a very large degree. An accident is bound to happen if you no longer can maintain your balance or doubt your motor skills when up on a ladder.

A drone can inspect any building. One can even do masonry buildings. The drone’s video camera can focus on the mortar joints as well as the brick or stone. You can spot crumbling mortar within minutes. There’s no need to scale a dangerous, tall ladder.

I’m about to invest in a drone for my own use. With a small amount of practice, I know I can use one to inspect my roof for missing shingles. The drone would allow me to look at the flashings around plumbing vent pipes, my chimney, and skylights. My feet would be planted safely and firmly in the grass as the drone performs the dangerous work.

You can use a drone to do all of the above. It gets better. Imagine not having to wonder if the last big storm caused damage you can’t see from the ground. The day after the storm, you could have your drone up in the air looking for problems on your roof. The drone could let you know if any of your siding or fascia boards were damaged by flying debris.

The current Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) requirements are pretty simple. If your drone weighs less than 0.55 pounds and you fly the drone for recreation, you don’t have to register it. Drones that weigh 0.55 pounds or more must be registered at the FAADroneZone website.

That said, if you’re a recreational flyer, you must complete the Recreational UAS Safety Test (TRUST) and carry proof of completion while operating your drone. You should visit the FAADroneZone website to read all the rules that apply to recreational flying. You can’t just buy a drone, charge the batteries, and start flying it legally without complying with the FAA regulations.

READ THE AUTHOR'S NOTE BELOW

You may be tempted to start a tiny business doing inspections in your neighborhood or town. This commercial use of a drone requires you to comply with Part 107 of the FAA drone requirements. You’ll have to take an in-person test, much like you did years ago to get your driver’s license. You’ll obtain a Remote Pilot Certificate once you meet all the Part 107 requirements.

Small drones equipped with high-resolution video and photo technology are very affordable. You can purchase one for just a few hundred dollars. I plan to survey my Ask the Bulider newsletter list for help before I buy one. I’m sure many of my subscribers own and operate drones. The survey results should be a great help. My subscribers will make sure I end up with a drone that’s reliable, high-quality, and is easy to operate.

You can get lots of this information from drone groups on social media. You may even have an in-person drone group that meets monthly in your city or town. Investing time in talking with other drone operators will allow you to make a great informed decision should you decide to purchase one.

Author's Note:

On March 15, 2026, David Drake who lives in Baltimore, MD sent me this additional information:

"Not a question, but a correction to your article about drones. To inspect your own roof, flashing, etc., you need to have your Part 107. The requirement isn't whether or not you receive payment for the flight, it's based on the flight's intent. Most people aren't checking their gutters for recreation. Your friend Steve, for example, should have had his Part 107. People also need their Part 107 if they post video on YouTube or similar platform and it promotes a business, even if it's not drone related. For example, if you own a roofing company and include a drone photo of a job you just did in an ad, you need a Part 107. I have my Part 107 and this topic gets debated all the time on drone subs in Reddit, but it all comes down to the flight's intent."

Column 1651

DIY Wood Preservatives

sugar shack with charred wood siding

Those black blotches are not mold and mildew. The owner used a large propane-fueled blowtorch and charred the siding. Charred wood resists insects, rot, and ultraviolet light damage.. Copyright 2026 Tim Carter

DIY Wood Preservatives

There’s a very good chance you own something made of wood that’s exposed to the weather. It might be a fence, a deck, a dock, patio furniture, wood siding, a shed, etc. Wood is a marvelous material. It’s favored by many because it’s easy to cut, shape, and install. Wood can also be quite affordable because it’s nothing more than a crop, just like corn or blueberries. Timber companies often plant one or two new trees for each one they harvest.

The downside of wood, when used outdoors, is that it requires maintenance. Some wood species require much more maintenance than others. Redwood and Western Red Cedar are two species grown in the USA that require minimal maintenance. Both have a substantial amount of natural preservatives locked into the wood fibers. Even so, you can’t expect them to resist weathering like you would a structure made of stone or a roof covered in slate.

Water and sunlight are the two primary enemies of wood. Water triggers wood rot. Water that soaks into untreated wood causes it to swell. When the wood dries, it shrinks. This movement creates cracks, much like when you bend the aluminum tab back and forth on an aluminum soda can. Repeated wet/dry cycles cause the cracks to get bigger and bigger, allowing water to penetrate deeper into the wood.

UV Light = Cruise Missiles

The ultraviolet (UV) rays in sunlight mimic miniature artillery shells. The UV rays that strike untreated wood break apart the lignin in the wood. Lignin is the glue that holds wood fibers together.

You may have witnessed this UV damage after you’ve pressure-washed an outdoor deck. The previously smooth wood becomes fuzzy once it dries. The fuzz is sun-damaged wood fibers that are still barely hanging on.

UV rays add further misery by changing the color of your beautiful outdoor wood. New teak is a rich, deep brown. That same teak left outdoors with no protection soon becomes battleship gray.

Paint is Great But...

Knowing what you’re up against, you’re tasked with stopping water from getting to the wood, and applying some sort of sunscreen to prevent UV damage. Paint fits the bill. Paint is nothing more than a colored glue. Some glues (resins) are much stickier than others. Think of the simple white glue kindergarteners use versus strong carpenter’s glue or epoxy.

I’ve found that paint that has a urethane resin component can bond well to wood for decades. I painted my redwood siding almost thirty years ago. Not only does it still look great, but it’s also not peeling. Keep in mind my redwood was squeaky clean, and I painted the siding employing all the best painting practices.

Should you decide to paint your outdoor wood, you should paint each piece on all sides and edges. This is not practical in many situations. That said, when you do an autopsy on peeling paint, you’ll often discover water was able to find its way to the unprotected surfaces, soak in, and then cause the wood to swell. This movement often exceeds the holding power of paint, and it peels and blisters.

Penetrating Non-Film-Former Sealers

You can choose to use penetrating sealers to protect wood. The best ones, but they’re almost impossible to find, are ones that are made with synthetic oils, and are not film formers like paint. Film-forming sealers eventually peel. They become a maintenance nightmare as you need to sand off the old sealer or use chemical strippers to achieve a stunning, new perfect finish.

Avoid sealers that contain natural oils. Tung and linseed oil are examples of these natural oils. These products are scrumptious food for both mildew and algae. Sealer manufacturers often add mildewcides to their sealers to prevent this growth, but the chemicals can and do leach out or break down over time.

You can also coat exterior wood with copper napthenate. Copper is a natural biocide. It helps to ward off wood rot, mildew, and algae. The issue is that this liquid produces a greenish cast on the wood. It’s a great product to coat the cut edges of treated lumber.

Japanese Wood Char

I’m intrigued by what the Japanese builders have done for centuries. They use fire to char new wood. This technique creates a natural surface that requires a minimal amount of maintenance.

The charred layer at the surface is identical to the black leftover log from the night before in your campfire ring. Have you ever noticed that charred log never seems to rot? You don’t see algae growing on it either. This is because the charring removes the food component of wood that fungi, mildew, and algae eat!

A homeowner just a few miles from my house used this method to protect the new wood siding on his maple-syrup sugar house. Five years ago, I watched him use a propane-fueled large blowtorch to char the new wood siding.

He was very wise and made sure the wood closest to the ground was charred the most. Water splashing up from the ground gets the wood closest to the ground very wet. The charring was not uniform, and you could see lightly charred wood in many areas. It created a very unique look, in my opinion.

I stopped by this sugar house just a few days ago to inspect it. I couldn’t find any signs of wood rot or algae growth. It turns out the Japanese are very clever to have observed what happens to burned wood and use that basic technology to protect the siding and trim on new houses!

Column 1650