Ceramic Tile Backer Boards

Posted on by Tim Carter

Backer Boards

Water is a very unusual compound. Several days ago, I spoke to a large group of gardeners. I indicated that water is necessary for the survival of their plants, so in that sense it is their friend. However, water used in abundant amounts too close to their houses can be their worst enemy.

The same is true for those of us who are not avid gardeners. Water is needed in our everyday lives. However, it can cause massive damage to our houses if not respected and controlled. Thus, those areas of our homes where water use is concentrated must be somewhat waterproof.

Bathrooms & Water

The average bathroom in a residential house has the highest concentration of water usage. It stands to reason that this area of the house needs the most protection from both water in the liquid form and water in the vapor state.

Shower and bathtub areas are of the highest concern, as it is here that water can most easily escape from the tub or shower area. Showering activity is really the biggest problem, especially if the shower area is constructed of ceramic tile. Think of it, we direct a concentrated stream of water against a wall surface that isn't integrally connected to the actual plumbing fixture (the tub).

The plumbing fixtures in a bathroom are always waterproof. They don't easily or readily deteriorate when exposed to water. Take toilets for example. Water sits in these fixtures from the day they are installed until the day they are removed without harm. Tubs are not harmed by water.

However, wall surfaces abutting plumbing fixtures can be seriously damaged by water which originates from the plumbing fixtures.

Waterproof Walls

Many people like the beauty and design possibilities which are possible when using ceramic tile. Ceramic tile is unaffected by water. In fact, standard ceramic tile is no different than the toilets we just spoke of above. Ceramic tiles and toilets are manufactured using refined clays which are glazed and hardened by a firing process in a high temperature kiln. The glaze turns into a thin coating of glass over the clay, making the tile impervious to water.

During the past several hundred years, homeowners and builders found out that concrete was not harmed by continuous exposure to water. It didn't take too long for them to figure out that you could apply a thin layer of concrete to a wall surface. Ceramic tile could be easily applied to this concrete surface by using a cement paste. In fact, if the ceramic tile was set into the fresh concrete surface within a day, the two became one in most instances. Prolonged exposure to water would not separate the two materials.

Modern Alternatives

The old method of attaching ceramic tile is still available. However it is very labor intensive. This added labor boosts the overall installation price beyond the capabilities of the average homeowner. Manufacturers of wall system products quickly responded to fill this gap.

Today there are three wall system products that you can use as a substrate for ceramic tile installations. All three are faster to install than the old fashioned concrete. However, there is a wide difference in overall performance of the three products. Fortunately, it is still possible to achieve the results of the old tile setters with several of the products.

Moisture Resistant Gypsum

Some gypsum wall product manufacturers make a gypsum board which is used by many builders and remodelers. It is marketed as moisture resistant drywall. The problem is that many people confuse "moisture resistant" with "waterproof." They are not the same. Not by a long shot.

Moisture resistant simply means that for some period of time the gypsum will resist the effects of moisture. After that period of time, deterioration will begin. My experience with these moisture resistant gypsum products is that they begin to fail within three to five years. Failure can occur at an earlier date if exposure to water is severe.

The process of deterioration begins with the paper which encases the treated gypsum core. The paper, even though it has been chemically treated to resist moisture, actually begins to dissolve or degrade when exposed to constant moisture. This deterioration exposes the chemically treated gypsum core to moisture. Eventually the gypsum core softens and your ceramic tile begins to fall from the wall.

The Next Step Up

Manufacturers were quick to realize that the moisture resistant gypsum couldn't do the job. So several of them developed products which exhibited higher performance characteristics. In fact, one product was based solely on the already known concrete system which had worked for years.

One day, somebody just thought "Why reinvent the wheel?" Why not manufacture concrete in manageable, easy to use sheets which can be nailed to walls? BINGO! Cementitious board was invented. This product has been around for approximately 15 years and has worked extremely well. It offers long-term durability with somewhat easy installation. What's more, with modern thinset cement adhesives, you can actually install ceramic tile on these boards that will not fall off when exposed to water!

Cementitious boards, however, are somewhat tough to install. You cannot nail close to the edge of a board without it fracturing. Also, cutting the board and producing a smooth edge is nearly impossible. Cutting holes is done either with a hole saw which produces dust, or by using a chisel, which makes a jagged cut. These disadvantages are minor, however, when you consider the fact that the products will not be affected by water.

The third alternative with respect to ceramic tile backer boards is a material which takes the qualities of moisture resistant drywall and cementitious board and blends them together. It is important to realize that this backer board is marketed as a water resistant material, not waterproof. It has a gypsum core made with a proprietary silicone treated chemical process. This board also substitutes fiberglass matting for the chemically treated paper found in the previously mentioned gypsum backer boards. The final component to this backerboard is a heat-cured, co-polymer water and vapor-retardant coating on the finished side of the board.

This new product is backed by a 20 year limited warranty. It can be easily cut with a standard razor knife and it installs just like standard gypsum products.

Water Vapor, Hmmmmmm

The fact that only one of the products has the ability to inhibit water vapor is quite interesting.The cementitious boards cannot make these claims. Water vapor can and does penetrate these products. Water vapor can also penetrate the moisture resistant gypsum.

Water vapor can be a significant problem if a shower or tub wall is also on an exterior wall, especially in colder climates. During cold weather, if a vapor barrier is not present on the warm side of a wall system, water vapor can pass through insulation and subsequently condense on the cold side of the wall. This condensation leads to serious water damage in short order.

The Bottom Line

If you want your ceramic tile job to last and you want peace of mind, what should you install? If you want ease of installation, choose the silicone treated gypsum product. If you want to be assured of long term durability, select a cementitious board installed with a plastic vapor barrier. Remember, the cement system has already proven that it can withstand the test of time. This we know for sure.

The key to success in using either material lies in proper installation. The materials must not be allowed to come into contact with water. This is especially true of moisture resistant gypsum board and the cementitious boards. Both of these materials can soak up water like a sponge. This water will destroy the gypsum in short order as we have discussed. It will not harm the cementitious board, however, it could begin to rot out the wood framing members to which the board is attached.

Just remember, do everything possible to keep water in its place, that is, in the plumbing fixtures!

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Tile Grout Sealing / Caulking

Posted on by Tim Carter

Caulking and Sealing Tile Grout Tips

When installing new ceramic tile, absolutely make sure that the horizontal seam between the bottom row of tile and the tub and/or shower is not grouted! This seam must be caulked with the best quality 100 percent silicone caulk you can buy. These caulks are available in various colors, should you be using a colored grout. Grout will shrink after installation and a very tiny crack will exist, trust me.

The best way to caulk this crack, believe it or not, is to do it in your bathing or birthday suit. Why, might you ask? The reason is simple. The tub should be filled up to the overflow with water when caulking this joint. The added weight of 30 to 50 gallons of water plus your body weight can cause the floor below the tub to deflect. Leave the water in the tub as long as possible to allow the caulk to cure. Don't leave water in the tub like this, however, if you have small children at home! Left unattended, they may think the tub is a swimming pool. Drownings have been known to occur.

AUTHOR UPDATE - April 2015: The following material not in red color was written before I had extensive experience with homeowners who had SEALED their grout and then had the grout get stained by a liquid that had seeped UNDER the sealant. That can happen along the line where the grout touches the tile.

In these cases, the homeowners discovered it's nearly impossible to remove the stain because all cleaners are REPELLED by the sealer.

Now I suggest to people to NOT SEAL grout. If you use Stain Solver, a Certified organic oxygen bleach, it will remove any stain from grout in minutes. 

After the grout is dry (three to five days), seal the grout with a silicone grout sealer. These products are available at your tile supplier. Be careful not to get these products on the tub or shower floor, as they are very slippery. The grout needs to be sealed, as it can and will absorb water. Remember, grout is nothing more than fine cement. The sealers also help to keep the tile grout clean. Reseal the grout every six months, after thoroughly cleaning the grout.

Existing Construction

Do all of the above, however, clean, clean, clean before caulking or sealing. These caulking and sealing products will not stick to soap scum very well!

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Liquid Drain Cleaners

Posted on by Tim Carter

Liquid Drain Cleaners

Go to any grocery or super store and you will find liquid drain cleaners on the shelves. They are commonly found in or near the aisles where household cleaners are located. I visited several stores and two names overpowered the displays. You are probably familiar with both: Drano and Liquid Plumr (both are registered trademarks). The products come in different sizes and different formulations.

I also found a product that looked similar in packaging to Drano and Liquid Plumr. It was called The Works. It is labeled as a liquid drain cleaner just like the other two. In fact, it is easy to mistake them. The problem is that the chemistry of The Works is completely different than Drano or Liquid Plumr. The Works active ingredient is hydrochloric acid. Drano and Liquid Plumr operate at the other end of the chemical pH spectrum - they are alkaline bases. Bases and acids work to dissolve clogs and organic matter. If you use chemicals that are too strong, they can dissolve you and your plumbing system! Most of the off the shelf products can burn your skin or eyes so be careful.

One of the biggest dangers is mixing chemicals. Absolutely READ the label instructions. Don't become an amateur chemist and start pouring, different drain cleaners, ammonia, toilet bowl cleaners, etc. in with the drain cleaner you intend to use. Toxic gases can result as well as violent eruptions. Hot water also can accelerate or worsen the reactions. If drain cleaners don't work for you and you call in a plumbing service, be sure to warn them that chemicals are in the pipes.

You can call the companies below to get information about their products. Drano and Liquid Plumr both have helpful toll free numbers that offer drain clearing assistance over the phone! I used the Drano Maximum Strength product to clear my tub drain. It is clearly marked that it has a thick formulation. Be patient and let the products work a while.

  • Drano
    9:00 to 9:00 Eastern
    S. C. Johnson & Son, Inc.
    Racine, Wisconsin 53403-2236
    Drano comes in regular strength, thick Max Strength (the one I used), enzyme buildup remover AND the new FOAMER clog remover.
  • Liquid Plumr
    Clorox Company
    Oakland, California 94612
    Liquid Plumr appears to match Drano product for product. Both have regular, thick, etc. Their chemistry is also very similar. Both use chlorine bleach and sodium hydroxide as the active ingredients.

  • The Works
    Lime-O-Sol
    P.O. Box 395
    Ashley, Indiana 46705

Related Articles:   Minimize Clogged Drains - Plumbing Installation Tips,  Drain Cleaners - What Works / What Doesn't,  Drain Cleaners - Thick is Good

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Minimize Clogged Drains – Plumbing Installation Tips

Posted on by Tim Carter

Installing Plumbing to Minimize Clogs

I have been a licensed master plumber for nearly 20 years. It has been a learning experience the entire way. I have learned from my mistakes. I also have learned some tips from seasoned plumbers and sharp inspectors. Here are some plumbing installation tips that may help you minimize clogs.

Bigger is Not Always Better

Some people think that if you oversize piping you will have fewer clogs. Actually, the opposite is true. Large diameter pipes spread out the energy of the moving water. Keep in mind that the weight of the water moving through drainage pipes under the influence of gravity is the locomotive force propelling solid waste into the sewer or septic system. A large pipe allows water to spread out along the bottom portion of the pipe. A smaller pipe handling the same volume of drain water will pick up and carry solid waste faster and farther. Smaller diameter pipes concentrate this energy and help to quickly move solid waste through the system.

Plumbing codes regulate pipe sizes and attach a value to each fixture. These are often called fixture units. Toilets obviously discharge much more water at a faster rate than a drinking fountain. As such, toilets need a large pipe size to handle the solid waste and large amount of water. Three inch pipes are used to handle most residential toilets. 1.5 inch lines are used to handle waste from kitchen, bathroom and powder room sinks. 2 inch drain lines are common pipes for laundry drains.

Clogs can develop easily on horizontal runs of pipe. Friction causes the water within the pipe to slow down. To achieve good water flow, try to install horizontal drain pipes so they have a minimum of 1/4 inch per foot slope. 3/8 of an inch per foot is actually better.

No Hard 90's Under Ground!

Sharp bends in piping also slow down water movement. They cause the moving water to loose energy. The 90 degree bends also are tough to pass through with drain cleaning equipment.

Never install a 90 degree fitting under ground except when used at the base of a vertical plumbing stack. This is where a vertical pipe turns and goes horizontal. If you have to turn 90 degrees, use two 45 degree angle fittings separated by a 12 or 18 inch piece of straight pipe.

Tub and Shower Drains

When I installed my kids tub drain piping 12 years ago, I had a feeling trouble was brewing. I clearly remember thinking that because of the way I had to twist the 1.5 inch trap and piping around in the tight joist bay, there could be problems. Sure enough, when the tub stopped up, I couldn't get a plumbing snake through the line.

I would have had much better success if I had installed a 2 inch trap and branch line to the primary drain stack. That is my advice to you - use 2 inch traps and drain piping for bathtubs. Most plumbing codes mandate that shower stalls use 2 inch piping and traps. It only makes sense for tubs to be piped in a similar manner. The 2 inch traps accept drain cleaning snakes more readily.

Cleanouts - Test Tees

Where ever possible, make sure you install a cleanout or test tee within visible horizontal runs. Install the fitting so the access plug is not pointed down. Turn it slightly up from the horizontal position. You may never need to use the cleanout, but will thank your lucky stars if there is a clog!

Don't Guess

If you are trying to install your own plumbing system, don't guess at pipe sizes. Get a copy of a code book to make sure you are using the correct sized piping. Check to see if you are even allowed to install plumbing. Some states have highly restrictive laws that do not permit DIY work.

Related Articles:   Drain Cleaners - What Works / What Doesn't,  Liquid Drain Cleaners,  Drain Cleaners - Thick is Good

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CSST is New and Revolutionary

Posted on by Tim Carter

Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing (CSST)

Install gas lines like electric wires? You must be nuts! If you would have made that statement 20 years ago, I would have thought you were nuts. After all, natural gas was meant to pass through rigid iron pipe, copper tubing, or steel mains, right? Well, that is the way it was done for years until someone got tired of threading pipe or forgetting to install the flare nut before you flare the pipe!

A Revolution

If you have ever installed black iron gas line on a hot or cold day, you know what an effort it can be. Threading pipe by hand will build biceps! The cutting oil gets everywhere and it is simply hard work. Working with copper tubing is easier, but even soft copper can be tough to bend without crimping the tubing. The new corrugated stainless steel tubing (CSST) is easy to cut, bends readily and requires no threading. Different systems require different fittings, but most are simple to work with. CSST is a revolutionary product and will be widely recognized as such within a matter of years.

Different Systems

Not all CSST is the same. It looks the same, even upon close inspection, but it is not. The difference is in the brass connections at each end of a tubing run. Some of the fittings have more parts than others. I happen to prefer the fittings that do not have split rings within them. Fewer parts, in my opinion, mean fewer problems.

Working With Black Iron

I love to install black iron pipe. So does my best friend, Richard Anderson - Cincinnati, Ohio's best HVAC man. The work is challenging and when you run several hundred feet of pipe with countless fittings and pass the pressure test, the satisfaction is enormous.

You need special tools to work with black iron pipe:

  • A pipe vise or tripod to hold the pipe
  • A heavy duty cutter to slice the pipe
  • A rachet and assorted pipe threading dies
  • A reamer and cutting oil

You can rent all of the above tools for a small job. If you plan to buy your own tools, be prepared! You will easily spend hundreds of dollars.

One of the biggest problems rookies make with black iron is getting the right length for a particular piece of pipe. You must always keep in mind that a certain amount of pipe disappears into each fitting. Usually 3/8 to 1/2 inch of pipe threads into a fitting.

You don't want to over-tighten black iron pipe. 1.5 to 2 complete turns of the pipe, after it is hand tight, is usually sufficient to produce leak free joints.

Pipe Dope

Black iron pipe joints need to have a sealing compound applied to the threads to make them leak free. I have never liked using Teflon tape - an approved sealer. I prefer using a pastelike substance called pipe dope. Traditionally, this material was messy to work with. However, a new pipe dope hit the market about 18 months ago that is easy to clean from your hands and any other surface it touches.

You apply pipe dope to oil free, or nearly oil free, male pipe threads. Don't put it inside a female fitting.

Threading Pipe

Pipe thread dies cut amazingly crisp threads on bare black iron pipe. As you might imagine, this creates enormous friction. You must use a special thread cutting oil to lubricate the die as it rotates around the black iron pipe. Failure to do this will cost you big bucks. Without oil, your cutting die will overheat and burn up. Capture the oil in a basket, strain it and reuse it!

Author's Notes:

On November 8, 2005, I received the following email.

In regard to your article on the CSST systems being installed in new homes. If you care to, read an article that was published in April of 2003 in the Dallas News regarding banning this installation in the city of Frisco, Collin County, Texas. Lightning strikes have caused numerous fires in residential homes as a result of CSST failing. Although the manufacturer states that it is completely safe, in fact safer than ridged black pipe, it has some serious issues. I have seen three fires in our own community as a result of CSST failure. The manufacturer accepts no responsibility for improper installation, and does not provide in any great detail, of detrimental or catastrophic failure if done so. I just saw your article and thought I would provide feedback. If you have questions on the article I mentioned, you may contact the Dallas News. Thank you for your time.

Maxwell J. Brunner
Lieutenant
Menomonee Falls Fire Department
Email- [email protected]

I responded to this very interesting email with a few thoughts of my own. My first suspicion would be that the tubing acts like a lightning rod of sorts. The thin walls of CSST might not seem to handle as much of a strike as black iron. Black iron is so much thicker that it may actually take a lightning strike better.

I suggest you look up the article in the Dallas News if you want more details.

February 2007

We received a notification from Jack Tracy of Houston, TX, about the ban having been lifted. Read about it in the Dallas News Archives - Publish Date: July 16, 2003.

We have only read the title and summary and have not purchased the article from the Dallas News.

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Manufacturers of CSST

Posted on by Tim Carter

Manufacturers of CSST Tubing

This industry is basically a newborn. The CSST (corrugated stainless steel tubing) material has only been approved for use since 1988! That is a blink of an eye in terms of marketing and brand/product awareness. Even though little time has passed since the debut of the unique material, there are still a significant number of players in the field. I expect this wonderful piping material to eventually knock black iron pipe on its butt. It will take a while as it always does. Plumbing distributors have to be convinced that there is a market for the material before they stock it. It is a Catch-22 type of scenario.

You find CSST at plumbing supply houses. These are wholesale stores that sell pipe and materials to plumbers. Look in your Yellow Pages under "Plumbing-Supplies". Stroll into the stores and look at the CSST displays and literature. You will be amazed at how nifty it is!

  • Gastite

  • OmegaFlex
  • Parker Parflex
  • Tru-Flex Metal Hose Corp.
  • Ward Wardflex

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Cost Comparison: CSST, Copper, Black Iron

Posted on by Tim Carter

Cost Comparisons

You are faced with a large gas line installation project. What is the most cost effective method? Well, it depends. If you have a reasonable plumber in your area who has been trained on how to use CSST, then it might be the hands down winner. The type of job also makes a difference. If there are lots and lots of bends, twists, and turns, then CSST and soft copper might massacre black iron.

You will have to get bids and see how it all turns out. One thing is for sure. As CSST becomes more and more accepted by professionals, the cost of the material will drop and this will benefit you the consumer. You will also find that improvements will allow homeowners to install the material with relative ease. Many companies who now make CSST do not want the average homeowner to install their product. They want plumbers to attend special, and necessary, training sessions.

Following is a cost comparison of four different jobs. Look at the numbers closely, especially the material and labor differentials. There are four different situations: House A is a small house with just a furnace and hot water heater. House B is a medium-sized house with a furnace, hot water heater, and two other gas appliances. House C has mid-level pressure - 2 PSI - a furnace, hot water heater and 4 other gas appliances. House D has mid-level pressure, two furnaces, two hot water heaters and six other gas appliances. CSST will usually only save money on larger jobs. Table Data courtesy of Omegaflex:

 
House A House B House C House D
Copper
Material
 $51 $90 $98 $148
Labor
 $133 $253 $400 $720
Total Cost
 $184 $343 $498 $868
Black Iron
Material
 $50 $87 $100 $149
Labor
 $160 $300 $500 $880
Total Cost
 $210 $387 $600 $1,029
CSST
Material
 $134 $216 $250 $306
Labor
 $100 $160 $220 $420
Total Cost
 $234 $376 $470 $726
Savings with CSST
.
 ($50) ($34) $28 $142

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Earth Auger Sources

Posted on by Tim Carter

Sources of Handy Earth Augers

Earth augers are not as easy to find as you might think. Those living in the country probably will have more luck than those living in a big town. Augers are a common farm implement and a farm supply store will most likely carry them.

If you have a county soil conservation office, they may have some catalogs as well. Soil testing companies will also know people who make and sell earth augers, as these scientists need to probe soil on a daily basis.

Garden centers have earth augers you install in a regular power drill. But these augers are made for vertical mulching of trees and for planting bulbs. Unless you have a very shallow sewer line, they will not work. The primary reason being that they usually only drill 18 inches deep. I have yet to see one of these garden augers that comes with extensions.

Here are a few I found while doing a search:

  • Little Beaver, Inc.
    This company has a full range of hand operated or gasoline powered earth augers. Visit their website, especially if you are looking for hand augers with extensions.

  • Ardisam Inc.
    These guys make a 2 inch powered auger called the Earthquake Auger. It looks like it is a nifty unit.
  • Stihl Incorporated
    Stihl makes durable gas powered augers.
  • Hoffco Outdoor Power Equipment
    Hoffco had been producing equipment spanning five decades. They offer one and two man, gas-powered earth augers and earth drills.

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Stop Tree Root Growth in Sewer Lines

Posted on by Tim Carter

Installing PVC Casings to Stop Tree Root Growth

Stopping tree roots that invade a sewer line requires a little investigative work. You somehow need to find out the position of the sewer line. The older the house is, the tougher this can be. Why? Because old sewer lines were built using 3 or 4 foot lengths of clay pipe that can easily be installed in sweeping curves, not necessarily a straight line. Your best bet is to hire a company that can send a camera into a sewer line and use an electronic sensing device to determine the location and depth of the sewer line as it passes beneath the ground.

Sewer Department Records

If your indoor plumbing connects to a municipal sewer system, I always start the process by visiting the sewer department. Most have good records and they can tell you the location of your sewer tap. This distance is measured quite accurately from the center point of the nearest manhole. Most sewer taps then extend at a 90 degree angle from the main sewer towards the property line. From here it can get a little tricky. Take my sewer line for example. The developers of my subdivision decided to save money. Instead of digging separate trenches for each house, they dug one wide sewer tap trench for two adjoining lots! My sewer tap and my neighbor's are next to one another right at our shared property line. I had to install a 45 degree elbow followed by a 22.5 degree elbow immediately off the tap to be able to get to the center of my lot. Once there I had to install the same fittings to be able to head in a straight line back towards my house. See the problems? And my house is only 15 years old! But armed with sewer tap records, you can at least have an idea where the sewer line ends at the edge of your property.

Drilling

If you have any buried wiring, gas lines, water lines, sprinkler lines, etc. be sure you get these marked if possible. A sharp earth auger can damage these lines and if it is electric or gas, you might cause serious injury or death! Be sure to use the right sized auger for the job. I prefer to use one that drills a 2.5 inch diameter hole, since 1.5 inch diameter PVC pipe has a 2 inch outer diameter. You want the hole a little bigger than the pipe so that the casing slides into the hole with minimal resistance.

Location and Depth

If you can determine the exact entry point of the roots into the sewer line then you can spot a casing pipe directly over that location. If you can't find the exact spot, you may need to install a series of casings spaced at 6 foot intervals along a stretch of sewer line that is under or adjacent to the tree or trees that are causing the problem. Remember to stop the casing about 18-24 inches above the top of the sewer line. You want gravity to help you distribute the copper sulfate solution. Drill too deeply and you are simply wasting your time. Keep in mind that the sewer department records will tell you the maximum depth of the sewer tap. Use this information and the estimated depth of the sewer pipe as it leaves your house to get an idea of how deep the sewer line is as it makes its way across your yard.

Access

The top of the casing needs a simple threaded plug that screws into a female adapter. This allows you to add copper sulfate crystals and hot water at periodic intervals. If you don't want to see white dots in your yard, consider painting the plug green to make it blend in with the grass. It is also a good idea to create a little map of the casings, measuring the center point of the plug from two fixed points of your house. This triangulation method allows you to pinpoint the casing if it should sink into the soil over time. Place a copy of the map in a plastic freezer bag and attach this bag to the water line in your basement or utility room.

Repeated Treatments

The copper sulfate will need several months to work initially. You then might want to add more every 6 months.

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Avoiding Sewer Back Ups From Tree Roots

Posted on by Tim Carter

Nothing is more disgusting than 4 to 6 inches of raw sanitary sewage in a basement or crawl space. Often the cause of backup problems can be traced to tree roots that have invaded a sewer line. The tree roots are drawn to sewer lines as they constantly and randomly search for food and water resources. The roots enter very small cracks in the pipe joints and when they find the water and nutrients in sewage, they go crazy. In the process, they drive homeowners like you and me crazy as well.

Solving the Problem

There are all sorts of concoctions you can put into your plumbing system that claim to solve root problems. A few work, but many do little to solve the problem. Any product that is simply a liquid or a solution that is flushed down the toilet will often do little. Why? The roots often grow down from the top of the pipe. The chemicals may burn the tips of the roots or any portion that the solution touches as it passes by the roots. The better chemical products are those that create a foam that fills the pipe void and contacts all of the roots. But keep in mind that the tree continues to grow and makes every attempt possible to re-establish root growth in the pipe.

Stop Them Before the Pipe

I have always thought the best way to stop basement water leaks is to stop the water BEFORE it gets to the basement. I have solved hundreds of chronic basement leaks by installing simple linear french drains around the perimeter of houses. These devices capture sub-surface water and redirect it around a house instead of into the basement.

You can apply the same thinking to tree roots in sewer pipes. Why not stop the roots BEFORE they get to the pipe? To achieve this all you have to do is poison the soil above and around the sewer pipe. Even if you only are able to treat several inches of soil around a sewer pipe, this method will be highly effective. The problem is, it is nearly impossible to deliver chemicals with that degree of pinpoint accuracy, especially to a pipe that is buried under tons of soil.

Dr. Pryor's Class

I majored in geology while in college. One of my favorite subjects was soil science and hydrogeology. I learned that water moves through soils in two directions. It moves down, then it moves sideways. Dr. Pryor, you would be proud of me. I did pay attention in class!

If you combine this knowledge with a delivery system that gets you close to sewer pipes, you can effectively treat soil above and around a sewer pipe so that it becomes distasteful to tree roots.

First Hand Experience

The second house I owned had a tree root sewer infestation. With the help of a professional sewer cleaner, I was able to determine a fairly accurate distance from the house where the tree roots entered the sewer pipe. I also found out where my sewer line entered my property. When I combined these two pieces of data I was standing right beneath two maple trees in between the sidewalk and the street.

I borrowed an earth auger and drilled a hole 10 feet deep. I glued a female adapter onto the end of a 1.5 inch PVC pipe and inserted the other end into the hole. With minimal effort I was able to extend the pipe into the earth so that the threaded end of the fitting was flush with the grass. I then poured 4 pounds of copper sulfate crystals into the pipe. Five gallons of hot water was then poured down the pipe. To make a long story short, the sewer never again backed up. I had nailed the problem. The placement of the pipe was obviously perfect and I was undoubtedly lucky, but the bottom line is that the trees continued to thrive, they just got their water and nutrients from someplace other than my sewer pipe.

Multiple Pipe Casings

You may not be as lucky as I was. You may have to sink 4 or 5 pipes into the soil in a line directly above or very near where you think your sewer problem is. You must also be patient. The copper sulfate takes months to poison the soil. The roots didn't plug the pipe in just one day and you are not going to dissolve them that quickly. If you combine a professional sewer cleaner, PVC pipe casings and copper sulfate, you absolutely can solve your tree root problem. Remember, patience...

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