Roof Deck Repair Work – What’s Fair?

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: The roofer installing a new roof on my house has discovered rotten wood. This comes as a surprise. He has quoted what appears to be an excessive price to install new wood. How do I determine if it is a fair price? J. K.

DEAR J. K.: First, you must verify if, in fact, you have rotten wood and how much. If you can not see the wood yourself, ask the roofer to take an instant photograph of the damage for you to see.

Ask the roofer for a breakdown of the added cost to remove and install the wood. This breakdown should show the quantity of wood being replaced, its cost, the amount of time it will take in man-hours, and the hourly rate per man-hour he intends to charge. It should also show any overhead and profit, as a separate item, that he is charging.

Using this breakdown, you can monitor this extra activity. You can see how long it takes and how much lumber was in fact used. The breakdown will enable you to see if you are being treated fairly.

You can address this situation in the bidding stage of your project. Ask the bidders to quote how much they will charge per square foot to install new wood, in the event they discover rotten wood. This is the best way.

You can see in the bidding stage, who offers the better value. Also, in the event that you do have rotten wood, you simply have to calculate the square footage which has to be replaced to determine your extra cost.

 

Ceramic Tile Repair Alternative

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My 75 year old house has a ceramic tile fireplace surround and hearth. The tile is original and quite unique. The surround is in good shape, however the hearth has loose and cracked tiles. I'm thinking about replacing the hearth tiles with new tile. Because I have been unable to locate matching tile, what suggestions do you have? K. L.

DEAR K. L.: My suggestion is simple. Don't replace the hearth tiles!! From your description of the tile, it sounds as if you have Rookwood Tile. This tile was manufactured in Cincinnati, Ohio, at the turn of the century. It adds value and character to your home. I think that the removal of the hearth tiles would be a mistake.

Because the new tile you install probably will be different in size, color, texture, etc., your installation will look like a patch job. I doubt that you will be satisfied with the final results.

I have an alternative suggestion which will yield very satisfactory results. However, you must employ the services of a very good artist. First, you must reapply the loose tiles. Prior to grouting the tiles, carefully clean out the crevices of the cracked tiles. When you grout the newly applied tiles, fill the cracked tiles as well. Work with the grout so that the cracks are filled completely flush and are smooth. Now, it is time to create the illusion.

Restore the "clean" to your grout. Just go to STAIN-SOLVER to see the beautiful, quick results.

Believe it or not, a good artist can camouflage the cracks. By blending the right paints with the proper gloss, he or she can make the cracks 'disappear'. Remember, you must properly fill the cracked tiles to successfully create this illusion.

Plaster Ceiling vs. Gravity

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I live in a 70 year old home. The plaster ceiling in my living room fell to the floor without warning. It ruined my furniture and floor. What caused this to happen and how can I check to see if my other ceilings are in danger of falling? G. H.

DEAR G. H.: There can be many reasons as to why your ceiling fell to the floor. Water damage, vibration, house settlement, structural member failure, etc. are among several of the possibilities. However, I think the most common cause of this type of failure is seasonal expansion and contraction of the wood framing members of your ceiling and the wooden lath boards which are nailed to the ceiling joists.

The plaster is attached to the ceiling joists by means of thin pieces of wood called lath. These lath boards are nailed to the ceiling joists with approximately a 3/8" space between them. When the plaster is applied to this wood lath system it oozes thru the spaces and spreads out on the top side of the lath boards.

When the plaster dries, it is 'locked' into the wood lath system. This system works very well as long as nothing moves. However, the wood lath expands and contracts at a different rate than plaster. In the summer months, the wood has a tendency to expand because it picks up moisture from the humid air. The wood lath contracts in the winter months when the air is drier.

This movement between the two materials causes the plaster to crack where it oozes thru the wood lath strips. When it cracks in enough locations, the weight of the plaster causes it to completely detach itself from the wood lath and fall to the floor, often with catastrophic results.

You can check the other ceilings in your house for this problem. Examine the ceilings and look for cracks. Using your hand push lightly against the crack. If the plaster moves up and down, it has detached from the wood lath and may be in danger of falling. Be sure to wear safety glasses or goggles when doing this, because small particles of plaster can fall into your eyes.

Noisy PVC Plumbing Drain Pipes – Cast Iron Solution

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: We just moved into a 15 year old home. Every time we flush the second floor toilet, we hear water running down our living room wall. The wall is never wet and I can find no leaks in the basement. What is happening to the water? B. B.

DEAR B. B.: Relax, the water is going down the plumbing stack and on its way to the sewer. Since you do not see any evidence of a leak, your description of the problem leads me to believe that your plumbing drainage system is constructed of PVC plastic piping.

PVC piping is notorious for sound transmission. It's low density plastic makeup makes it very noisy. Often you can hear a small amount of water trickling down the pipe. You can identify this type of pipe very easily. It is non-metallic, white, and often has labeling imprinted on the pipe which states that it is PVC.

You can solve your noise problem with a little bit of work. You have basically two choices. If the piping is PVC, you can replace it with cast iron piping. Due to its dense structure, cast iron piping transmits very little noise. This is one reason why you rarely hear water rushing down the walls of older houses. Cast iron drain piping was the material of choice 80 to 100 years ago.

This choice will probably be expensive due to the fact that you will be removing existing drainage piping and replacing it with new piping. Also, in most cities and states, work of this scope requires the services of a licensed master plumber to perform the installation.

Installing cast iron in a new house or a remodeled bath is not a budget breaker. Often it can be added to a house for only a $150 per bathroom. Remember, only the pipes that carry water need to be cast iron. All vent pipes that deliver air to the plumbing system can still be PVC.

The other alternative is to expose the piping and insulate it with fiberglass sound batts. Be sure to wrap the entire pipe, starting at the base of the toilet and continue until the pipe enters the basement. Then fill the rest of the wall and ceiling cavity with sound batt insulation.

When you have finished, flush the toilet before patching the wall. If you still hear the water, locate the source of the noise and add more insulation.

Dust Control During Remodeling

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I am allergic to dust. However, I want to do some extensive remodeling to my house. I know that remodeling activities can produce dust. What can I do to minimize dust in my house and protect myself? T.H.

DEAR T. H.: Remodeling activity almost always creates dust. It can generally be managed and controlled. However, you should first consult with your physician to determine your personal risk factor.

The key to dust control is to minimize the introduction and creation of dust on the jobsite. Dust can be produced by almost all construction activities. Dust can be brought into the jobsite on materials and boxes. Several things can be done to control and minimize dust.

Be sure that everything that is brought to the jobsite is cleaned before it enters your house. During demolition phases, the room in which the work is taking place should be sealed off from the rest of the house. Securely tape plastic over all door openings. This plastic should be taped to the walls and the floor so that the dust cannot escape between the door trim and the wall. Do not carry demolition material through the house, discard safely out the window in the room where the demolition is taking place. It is extremely important to completely seal off any supply or return ducts. If you fail to seal these openings, your furnace system may spread the dust throughout the entire house.

During construction aspects of the remodeling, be sure to close all windows and doors near the construction area. Wind and drafts can carry airborne dust into your house. Be sure to seal off the construction area from the house by taping plastic around all openings leading to the construction area.

Daily cleanup is important. Ask your contractor to avoid using a broom. A shop vacuum cleaner is a better alternative. Be sure that the filter is new or cleaned on a regular basis. Consider attaching a damp cloth over the exhaust port of the vacuum to catch any dust which escapes past the filter. The cloth must be rinsed frequently and should always be moist to be effective.

You should consider wearing a high quality dust mask during the remodeling process whenever you feel at risk. Various companies make highly effective masks which filter almost all dust. Other masks are available which filter harmful or toxic fumes. Some masks are disposable, while others have replaceable filters which you change on a regular basis. These masks quite possibly will enable you to endure the remodeling process. Even if you are not allergic to dust, it is a good idea to have one available.

Older homes which are remodeled often can contain asbestos in a variety of building materials. When these materials are disturbed during demolition, asbestos can be released into your home. Lead dust is also a danger. Lead can be found in paint. It was completely banned as an additive to paint in 1978. So, unless your home was built after 1978, there is a possibility that lead dust could be created by remodeling activity.

Aside from the nuisance which dust creates, it can be a health hazard. Both you and your contractor should be aware of these risks. You should talk extensively with your contractor prior to the start of the job. Ask what measures are going to be taken to minimize and contain the dust. If your house is older, you should consider having a testing agency or lab check to see if any materials you are removing or disturbing contain hazardous materials.

 

Contractor Allowances

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My contractor has included 'allowances' in my project for certain items. What are allowances and what is included in each allowance? S. W.

DEAR S. W.: Allowances are guideline budget numbers which indicate how much you can spend on certain items in your project. Generally, as long as you do not exceed this budget number, you will not cause an increase in your overall project cost. Examples of allowance items are electric light fixtures, plumbing fixtures, cabinets, etc. Allowances are frequently used in the planning or contract stage because the homeowner may not have yet picked out a particular item.

Allowances can include many items, so you should be very specific in your contract documents. The allowance for a particular item should include the sales tax and any delivery charges for that item. This can easily be checked when looking at the contractor's invoice.

For you to receive the best value, your allowance number should be the cost of the item which your contractor pays, not full retail price. Any markup which your contractor wishes to add to the allowance items should be included in his base bid price.

Labor to install allowance items should not be a part of the allowance. These costs should be included in the contractor's base bid. When you settle your bill with your contractor, it can be very difficult to identify labor costs if included with allowance items.

No builder or designer's library should be without Adding to a House written by Philip Wenz. Here is the ideal book for designers and builders who understand basic construction but have not had access to a single source of information that covers the entire process of planning, designing and building an addition. Adding to a House is also perfect for home owners who intend to contract the work out and want to understand the process so they can make intelligent decisions and work effectively with people they hire. This book will help you avoid costly mistakes, make sure no potential problems are overlooked and handle tricky construction details. By following the advice in this book designers, builders and home owners will be able to create an addition that solves space problems and increase the value of a house. This book is published by Taunton Press, one of my favorite book publishers, and has wonderful color photographs and easily understood illustrations.

Cost Breakdowns

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I just received bids for a very large and complicated room addition project. Each of the bidders gave me a lump sum price for the job. I would like to know what certain items cost. Is it unreasonable to ask for a breakdown? S. P.

DEAR S. P.: No. I highly recommend that you request a breakdown of each bid. You should tell this to each contractor as he is preparing your bid.

The breakdown should be as detailed as possible. It should list each step of the building process. It should also list separate categories for major material items and fixtures. Examples of these categories would be foundation, carpentry, plumbing, rough lumber, doors, windows, cabinets, plumbing fixtures, etc.

You should provide each contractor with a list of the items you want itemized in your bid. If you do not do this, each contractor will probably present a different format to you. Without a standardized form, it will be very difficult to interpret each bid.

The breakdown should have a separate category showing the contractor's profit and overhead. It is important to know this figure. You must not allow the contractor to receive more profit and overhead at each payment point than is rightfully due to him.

This breakdown will be invaluable to you. You can use it to easily compare the quotes you've received. You will be able to see why the low bidder is low and the high bidder is high.

It will help you in determining if a contractor has made a mistake. Generally, certain categories should be very close in price, especially those where specific materials or items are being used.

This breakdown will also be a useful tool in making payments to your contractor once the project is under way. You will be able to compare his payment requests to the bid breakdown to verify if he is asking for the correct amount of money.

Specifications – Important Details

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I've heard a lot about specifications. What are they and is there really a value in having them for my project? N. W.

DEAR N.W.: Specifications are detailed written descriptions of the articles to be used in a project as well as the manner in which they are to be installed. They can be one of the most valuable things in guaranteeing a successful project.

Specifications become the guidelines which your contractor must follow to satisfy you. They usually clearly state what items are to be installed in your project. In the event of an error by your contractor, specifications will be an invaluable aid in identifying the error.

The specifications should be attached to the plans for your project.

They should also be clearly mentioned in the contract between you and your contractor. He must realize their importance.

How would you like me to build your new home? It's probably impossible for me to fit your job into my schedule, but I will gladly share hundreds of my tricks and building secrets with you and your builder. Check out my New House Specifications.

How to Square Something

Posted on by Tim Carter

How to Square Something

DEAR TIM: I often hear my builder talk about the importance of things being square. When is something square and is there a simple way that I can tell if something is square? R. J.

DEAR R. J.: Something is considered square when two intersecting lines on the same surface create a 90 degree angle. It is vitally important for all aspects of your project to be square, especially the foundation. Square foundations allow a builder or remodeler to work at the highest level of productivity. All aspects of rough carpentry become a breeze instead of a hassle.

It is easier to install materials and fixtures when framing members and walls are square. There are fewer irregular cuts in most instances. Possibilities for mistakes are minimized.

There is a very simple way to check if something is square. This method has been in use for thousands of years. Starting at the intersection point of the two lines, measure down one line 3 feet and make a mark. Measure down the other line 4 feet and make a mark. Measure accurately in a straight line between your two marks. The distance between the two marks will be exactly 5 feet if the two lines are square. This third line makes a triangle. It is often referred to as the diagonal.

Any multiple of these numbers works as well. For example, a triangle with legs of 6 feet and 8 feet with a diagonal of 10 feet will produce a square corner. The combination of 12 feet, 16 feet, and 20 feet will also produce a 90 degree angle.

You can purchase handy calculators that will give you the diagonal for any combination of two lines. For example, let's say you want to build a deck that will be 20 long and project 12 feet out from the house. Using the fancy calculator, it would tell you in a matter of seconds that the diagonal would be 23 feet and 3 and 7/8 inches.

Footing/Foundation Importance

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I have a concrete patio slab which is in excellent condition. I would like to construct a screened-in porch on this slab. The screening materials as well as the other building materials are lightweight. Do you think the slab will be able to handle the weight of the structure? G. Y.

DEAR G. Y.: The slab will probably handle the weight, however I feel that you have a more serious problem. Based upon your information and sketch, your slab has no foundation beneath it. It simply is not a good idea to build a structure on such a slab.

The reasons for this are numerous. Some of the primary reasons structures require foundations are as follows. The foundation of a building is designed to withstand the loads placed upon it. Without a foundation, a wall or column supporting a concentrated load could actually crack the slab and sink into the soil. Believe me, that could really ruin your day.

Foundations also protect structures from frost heaving. I have seen certain clay soils heave a slab 2-3". Frost is a powerful force in certain climates and must be respected. Foundations and the footers that support foundations should be poured below the frost line. Frost lines can range from inches below the surface to several feet. Check with your local building officials to determine the frost line in your locality.

If you build your screened porch on the slab several things could happen. Frost action could lift the slab and pull part of the porch away from your house. The frost action could also crack the slab and cause differential movement by lifting one part of the slab higher than the other.

My advice is simple. I suggest that you remove the slab and install a properly designed foundation system. Reinstall a new insulated slab so that you have the potential of using this room on a 365 day-a-year basis should your space requirements change in the future.