Allowances – The Financial Black Hole

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I have just received three quotations for a sizable remodeling project. All of the bids included allowances. What are allowances? What do they include? Is there an easy way to compare them? Help, I'm so confused! H. C.

DEAR H. C.: Be careful! You are about to be pulled into the black hole of bidding! Allowances can easily create confusion. Many homeowners have suffered financial setbacks as a result of this confusion.

Allowances in bid quotations are often used to create a budget number for an item or task which has yet to be defined. It is important to note that the number which is used is often an average or arbitrary number.

Allowances must be carefully spelled out as to what they do and do not include. For example, does an allowance figure include sales tax and delivery charges? How about profit and overhead for the contractor? Special kits or optional items need to addressed. For example, a homeowner may have a $250.00 allowance for a bathtub. However, is the cost of the waste and overflow (drain) assembly part of the allowance or not? It's a good idea to determine if labor costs are a part of an allowance number.

The pricing strategy used in determining the allowance cost of an item can also be a problem area. Builders and contractors often receive special pricing from suppliers when they purchase items. Determine if the allowance number is based upon this price or the retail cost. Often, a homeowner can obtain more competitive pricing if they request that allowances be based upon the contractor's cost of goods. Contractors then include any markup on these materials as a part of their base bid. If they really want your job, they may lower their markup on these items to make their quotation more attractive to you.

Many homeowners have experienced frustration when confronted with allowances. The common cause of this frustration is artificially low allowance numbers. For example, a contractor may quote a kitchen job with a cabinet allowance of $4,000.00. You sign the contract and the job begins. After visiting several cabinet shops, you determine that the lowest quality cabinets cost $7,000. If you don't happen to have any extra money, you have got a major problem.

The best strategy to avoid these problems is to eliminate allowances from your jobs. This is really not that hard to do. The trick is to make product selections before your job goes out for bid. Investing this time during the planning process will reap large rewards. Each contractor will know exactly what you want. He or she will be able to calculate the proper cost and the amount of time required to install the items you have selected. The bids will, in reality, be a comparison of 'apples to apples'.

The preselection of items during the planning stage offers another advantage. Items which need to be special ordered will be identified at the beginning of job. Professional contractors will then be able to order these items in sufficient time so as to minimize project delays.

Allowances can't always be totally eliminated, however. In these cases, make sure that each contractor uses the same arbitrary number and the same conditions in his quotation. This will allow you to more easily determine which contractor is the low, middle, and high bid. Allowing contractors to use their own allowance numbers can create a financial nightmare for you.

Front Door Locksets and Handles

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I'm getting ready to install a new front door. I went shopping for a fancy door knob and handle lockset. However, once in the store, I was overwhelmed and confused by the different types of locksets. Are there any clear cut advantages between the different types? If you don't mind my asking, what type do you have on your own home? S. J.

DEAR S. J.: It doesn't surprise me that you were confused by the different types of residential locksets that are currently available. Many of the locksets look identical or similar, however there are vast differences between them.

Residential locksets, for the most part, fall into two different classifications: mortise or cylindrical. The advantages and disadvantages of each type are rooted in the way each lockset is constructed and installed.

front door locksets

Mortise locksets derive their name from the mortise you must create in a door in order to install the lockset. A mortise is a deep cavity, usually rectangular, which is created in the edge of a door. The successful creation of this cavity can often only be achieved with specialized tools and skill. Once created, you can then install the lockset case which is filled with levers, cams, and springs.

One advantage of a mortise lockset is the ability to operate the door latch and the deadbolt by inserting a key into just one slot. By turning the key just 90 degrees past a full turn you can unlock both the latch and the deadbolt. Often, exterior mortise locksets have massive 1 inch throw deadbolt locks that are an integral part of the lockset. Newer models offer a special interior emergency release feature which allows you to operate the deadbolt and door latch simultaneously in the event of a fire or other emergency.

Highly polished solid brass knobs, backplates, thumblatches, etc. are common. It is even possible to obtain a lifetime guarantee on some polished brass finishes. These locksets, as you might imagine, can be quite expensive. Also, they require a significant investment in time to properly install. However, mortise locksets, in my opinion, offer the ultimate in security, design, and ruggedness.

Cylindrical locksets, on the other hand, offer ease of installation, wide selection of styles and finishes, and affordability. The cylindrical lockset gets its name from the actual shape of the lockset mechanism and the cylinder into which the key fits. The installation of this type of lockset is achieved by drilling two simple holes. A large hole is drilled on the face of the door for the lockset mechanism, while a smaller hole is drilled in the edge of the door for the latch. Often you can purchase doors with the holes pre-drilled.

You have a wide range of durability available when purchasing cylindrical locksets. These locksets frequently are available in three categories: residential, light commercial, and heavy duty, all of which can be installed in residential doors. Rarely, if ever, do these locksets have an integral deadbolt lock.

If you choose to install a standard cylindrical lockset and want a deadbolt lock as well, you often must drill two additional holes. Locking and unlocking these mechanisms requires that you insert the key into an additional key slot. What's worse, if you don't plan ahead and buy the same brand locks, you may have to use two different keys.

front door locksets

front door locksets

You can obtain high quality locksets either way you go. Personally, I have both. My front door features a classic solid brass thumblatch mortise lockset, while the other doors in my house have cylindrical locks. I am satisfied with the performance of both. Plus, one key operates all doors!

Caulks

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I need some help with caulks. There are many different types available. How are the silicone caulks different from the acrylic latex caulks. Are they both paintable? Also, I purchased a clear acrylic latex caulk, but it came out of the tube white. Was the caulk in the tube out of date, or was it defective? One last thing, is there a caulk available to fill a driveway crack? M. W.

DEAR M. W.: Caulks have experienced a significant transformation during the past 45 years. Linseed and oil based caulks were used on a widespread basis up until the 1950's. During the 60's and 70's acrylic latex and silicone caulks began to appear. Because caulks need to stick to things, they are closely related, chemically speaking, to adhesives. In fact, I'll bet that you have seen adhesive caulks at your local stores.

Caulks

In as much as caulks are used to fill cracks between things that frequently move, it is important for them to have a high degree of flexibility. The older oil based caulks almost always became brittle with age. Acrylic latex and silicone caulks are formulated so that they will remain flexible for many years.

100 percent silicone caulk is made by reducing silica sand into a basic silicone oil polymer. In order to give the caulk body, fillers such as mica (a mineral) and clay are added. These caulks work best when used on non-porous objects such as metals and glass. The silicone oil makes it virtually impossible for paints to adhere to 100 percent silicone caulk. This oil tends to bleed slowly out of the caulk for many years.

100 percent silicone caulks require moisture from the air in order to cure. If you live in a dry climate, you will notice that these caulks take a longer time to dry. As the silicone caulk cures it emits acetic acid, one of the primary ingredients of vinegar. These fumes can irritate your eyes and nose.

Acrylic latex caulks are comprised of acrylic polymers, latex, water, and fillers. They bond very well to porous materials such as wood, masonry, plaster, and drywall. These caulks cure, or dry, as the water in them evaporates. Acrylic polymers and latex have excellent flexibility. They also retain this flexibility for long periods of time. Also, paints adhere well to the fillers that are present in these caulks.

Some of your confusion may arise from acrylic latex caulks that contain silicone or 'paintable' silicones. Some acrylic latex caulks contain small amounts of silicone. The silicone is added to improve their flexibility. The paintable water based silicone caulks often contain high amounts of fillers which allow paint to adhere to them. However, the high filler content tends to have an adverse affect on the overall performance of the caulk.

Caulks

You and I have shared a similar experience. When I first used a clear acrylic latex caulk, I thought the manufacturer had made a mistake. I never believed that the white caulk would dry clear. I was wrong. The white color in the caulk is caused by the presence of latex. The latex in the caulk is derived chemically. It is similar in nature to the milky colored fluid produced from plants belonging to the milkweed family. As the water evaporates from the latex the structure of the caulk changes so that the caulk becomes transparent. Light waves travel directly through the caulk.

There are caulks available to suit just about any purpose. You can purchase caulks that look like brick mortar, blacktop, and concrete. Special low temperature caulks are available that adhere to cold, damp surfaces. Caulks are made that seal aluminum gutter joints which commonly leak due to expansion and contraction caused by temperature changes. There is a caulk for just about any need.

Cellulose vs. Fiberglass

Posted on by Tim Carter
Be sure to read the special Author's Note at the end of this column. It provides updated information on this topic.

DEAR TIM: I would like to upgrade my attic insulation. However, I understand that fiberglass insulation is now considered a suspected carcinogen. Cellulose insulation, I've been told, possibly is a fire hazard. Can you help with this dilemma? Also, are there any factors that affect the R-values of each material? C.T.

DEAR C. T.: The information you heard about concerning fiberglass being a suspected carcinogen is correct. In July of 1994, the federal government labeled fiberglass as a substance that quite possibly could be a carcinogen. However, the U. S. Department of Health and Human Services, in a letter to Congress, exclaimed that they felt that fiberglass does not pose a threat to persons in their daily lives.

The risk appears to be centered around the fact that when installing either blown or batt type fiberglass, small glass fibers become airborne. These fibers can then be inhaled into your lungs. This can in fact happen. Years ago, as an uninformed rookie, I installed fiberglass without using a facial mask. After working with the material for several hours, I could feel the fiberglass in my throat.

However, once installed, fiberglass is almost always covered with some material. Or, it is in an attic space where it can not be easily disturbed. This is why it does not pose a serious health threat to the average person.

Fiberglass manufacturers have responded to this concern. You can now purchase fiberglass batt insulation that has a combination plastic and kraft paper covering. The back side usually has small perforations in the plastic to prevent the buildup of water vapor within the insulation.

Cellulose insulation is made primarily from recycled newspaper. Yes, newspaper is very flammable. However, cellulose insulation is treated with either sodium borate, boric acid, or ammonium sulfate. These chemicals, which have been deemed safe for humans, make cellulose insulation fire retardant. These chemicals also repel rodents, insects, and mold.

However, I have a concern about quality control when the chemicals are applied to the ground up paper. What happens if the chemicals are not mixed correctly? What happens if not enough chemical is applied? Is it possible for there to be a malfunction at the factory and you receive a bad batch? How can you test for yourself that enough chemicals have been applied?

These chemicals apparently retain their ability to retard fires in the hot temperatures found in many attics. However, there have been instances when cellulose has indirectly caused a fire. This usually happens when either type insulation is installed in direct contact with an older style recessed lighting fixture. The insulation traps the heat created by the light bulb. This, in turn, causes the lighting fixture to overheat. Some modern recessed fixtures have thermostats within the fixture that turn the light off if it begins to overheat.

Settling of blown insulation can affect its long term R-value. R-value is the term used to measure the flow of heat through an object or material. A higher number indicates that the object or material has a higher insulating capability.

Most blown-in fiberglass and cellulose insulations settle, or compact, after installation. Cellulose seems to settle more than fiberglass. Some fiberglass manufacturers have developed newer loose fill fiberglass that evidently does not settle. Once it has settled, fiberglass has an R-value of 2.1 - 2.7 per inch, while cellulose has an R-value of approximately 3.0 per inch.

Loose fill blown fiberglass insulation has another slight problem. As the temperature difference between the living space and attic increases, the R-value of blown fiberglass diminishes. In extreme situations, such as the upper Midwest, this reduction in R-value approaches 50 percent.

This phenomena seems to occur as a result of thermal convection. The trapped air molecules in the insulation are pulled up through the insulation into the colder attic air. This problem has been successfully solved by installing fiberglass batt insulation over the top of loose fill or blown insulation.

The bottom line is that cellulose can burn, but fiberglass will not support combustion. Fiberglass may melt in an extreme fire, but will not add to the fire load. Choose your insulation wisely.

Author's Note:

Routinely I am blessed to hear from professionals and industry experts who share in-depth and updated information about a topic. You'll absolutely want to read the letter I received from the President of NAIMA (North American Insulation Manufacturers Association). It really helps clarify some of the points I just touched on in this column.

...

I received this very interesting email from E. G. who is a remodeling contractor. He related to me a frightening incident that happened on one of his jobs in 1997, in Champaign, Illinois:

"I just read your article comparing the virtues and vices of Fiberglass vs. Cellulose Insulation. Let me share with you an anecdote from my own personal experience.

A few years ago, I was remodeling a room in a client's home -- moving a wall, adding a skylight, stuff like that. I finished mudding the drywall about noon and headed home for the day. Two hours later, I got a call from the homeowner, telling me that the job would be delayed for awhile.

After I left, the electrician doing some work in the attic had set his trouble light down in the cellulose insulation. He then went down to his truck for a bite of lunch.

I'm sure you can tell where this is going: the "fire-retardant" cellulose insulation caught fire, and by the time the fire trucks arrived, a big hole was burned in the roof, and my lovely new work was ruined.

You say in your article that the fire hazard of cellulose insulation has been magnified. Perhaps it has. But having seen it with my own eyes, I can't trust the ground up newspaper insulation any more. For my money, it's fiberglass all the way. I've never heard of it catching fire."

Eric Gentry

Anti-Scald Tub and Shower Faucets

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My wife has requested that I install a new anti-scald tub and shower faucet. I told her that I could eliminate the possibility of scalding by simply turning down the temperature on the hot water heater. Will this work? Do the anti-scald valves really work, and if so, just how do they regulate the water temperature? P. G.

DEAR P. G.: Beware! Turning down the temperature on your hot water heater is not the answer. Installing an anti-scald valve is the best way to minimize your chances of being scalded by hot water.

Hot water is a real danger. A person can receive a blistering second degree burn in several seconds as water temperatures approach 150 - 160 degrees F. It is a very real possibility for water to leave your water heater at or above this temperature, even though your water heater's thermostat is set at a much lower temperature.

The cold water which enters your hot water heater does so through a long tube called a dip tube. This tube extends almost to the bottom of the hot water heater. The thermostat for virtually all hot water heaters is located near the bottom of the tank. Herein lies the problem.

Water temperatures within hot water heaters are not always uniform. In fact, there can be a huge difference in temperature between the water at the top of the tank and the cold water entering the bottom of the tank. The temperature difference at the top of the tank, away from the thermostat, can be up to 30 degrees hotter than the thermostat setting. This means that if your thermostat is set at 120 degrees F, water can leave the tank at up to 150 degrees F.

Some anti-scald valves can protect you against this danger. However, it requires a specialized thermostatically controlled valve. The problem is, a large majority of anti-scald valves purchased by homeowners and plumbing contractors are not this type. The most popular anti-scald valve currently sold is a pressure balance type valve. Current plumbing codes allow either type to be installed.

The pressure balance valve controls water temperature by sensing pressure differences between the hot and cold water pipes that feed the valve. You can get scalded by pressure differences. If you happen to be showering and another individual somewhere else in the house turns on a hose or flushes a toilet, the pressure and volume may change in the cold water line leading to the shower faucet. This may cause the temperature of the water coming from the valve to increase, even though the hot water was not turned up.

However, pressure balancing valves have a slight drawback. When they are installed, they have a high temperature limit stop which allows you to set the maximum temperature of the water which comes from the shower head. This setting is based upon the temperature of the water leaving the hot water heater. If you make an adjustment on the thermostat of your hot water heater, either up or down, after you have installed the valve and adjusted it, the temperature of the water coming out of the shower or tub faucet will be directly affected. Remember, the pressure balance valves react to pressure, not temperature.

The ultimate tub and shower faucet is one that can adjust for both temperature and pressure differences. These valves can be expensive. They also have minor drawbacks as well. Once you have selected a water temperature, often it can't be readjusted unless you turn the valve completely off.

Granite and Marble Flooring

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I'm giving serious consideration to using granite and/or marble as a flooring material in an upcoming building project. Will they both perform equally? How about stain resistance, durability, and care? Are there any natural stone product alternatives that you might recommend? A.C.

DEAR A.C.: I must compliment you on your taste and choice of building materials. Both granite and marble are wonderful flooring materials. These materials have seen explosive growth during the past 5-10 years. Marble sales have increased approximately 400 percent during the past five years.

Believe it or not, during the past ten years, hard stone products have experienced an incredible 2,000 percent growth in sales. There is no doubt that homeowners have discovered the advantages that commercial builders have known for quite some time. Aside from flooring, homeowners are using marble and granite as countertops, back splashes, tub platforms and surrounds, and fireplace surrounds and hearths.

Both marble and granite are natural stone products. Recalling my college days, as a geology undergraduate, marble is a metamorphic rock. Limestone, when subjected to various high temperatures and pressures within the earth, recrystallizes into marble. For years, much of the fine marble used in building was quarried in Italy. However, fine marble is now quarried in Mexico, China, Spain, and the former Soviet Union.

Granite is a fine to coarse grained rock which often contains quartz, feldspar, and mica crystals. It can form as a result of igneous (volcanic) or metamorphic geologic activity. The presence of quartz in granite gives it incredible durability and hardness characteristics. Granite is almost always more durable than marble.

Because granite and marble are natural products, they exhibit a wide range of stain resistance. Marble is more porous than granite. Certain marbles can stain quite readily. Common household liquids such as orange juice, nail polish remover, shampoo, and even water can cause serious stains in certain marbles. Granite, on the other hand, is very stain resistant. Professional installers recommend the use of neutral pH breathable sealers for both marble and granite, once they have been installed. These sealers need to be reapplied on a regular basis, depending upon how much use or foot traffic that the marble or granite is exposed to.

If you choose to use marble for an entrance foyer, it might have to be professionally cleaned and resealed every 12 - 18 months. Marble used in bathrooms and kitchens should be cleaned and resealed every 9 - 12 months.

There are several alternative natural stone products that might interest you as well. Slate and terrazzo make beautiful and durable floors. Terrazzo is very unique. It is made by mixing different colored marble chips with colored cement and / or epoxy. This mixture is honed and polished to a mirror like surface. By using a variety of different colored marble chips, you can create virtually any colored floor or pattern. Terrazzo requires virtually the same care as natural marble flooring.

Slate is a unique flooring material. It is available in shades of green, brown, red, and mottled green. It is very durable, and when sealed it is virtually stain proof.

All of the stone products, except for terrazzo, are installed similar to ceramic tile. They are available in different sizes, commonly 12 x 12 inch squares. Slate often is available in random sizes that fit together in a pattern. The thickness of the materials varies, depending upon what you choose. However, most flooring pieces are either 1/4, 3/8, or 1/2 inch thick. Visit your local stone products center and see the wide variety of products that are available. I'm sure that you will not waste your time.

Column 056

Replacing Cabinets

Posted on by Tim Carter

replacing cabinetsDEAR TIM: My husband and I just got back from looking for new kitchen cabinets. We are so confused! We know what stock cabinets are, however, there doesn't seem to be a big difference between semi-custom and custom cabinets. What is the difference? Can you offer any suggestions regarding current trends? Also, is there a standard of quality that manufacturers must meet? J. T.

DEAR J.T.: Your confusion is very understandable. Many of my customers have returned from a day of cabinet shopping dazed and confused as well! A large part of the problem lies in the huge variety of styles, types of cabinet construction (frame vs. frameless), finishes, and accessory trim pieces. Do not underestimate the time it will take you to view all of the options that are available to you. Often it can take 2 - three days to visit different cabinet shops.

Semi-custom kitchen cabinets are factory-produced on assembly lines. Manufactures of these cabinets often allow you to select specific door styles, wood species, and stain finish types. These cabinets usually offer a wide variety of interior options such as cutlery trays, drawer dividers, towel racks, cookie sheet holders, trash can holders, etc. Often these cabinets are built using stock cabinet sizes. Separate cabinets are butted against one another in a typical installation. Some manufactures offer custom size possibilities.

Custom kitchen cabinets are made solely for your kitchen. They result from extremely specific measurements and detailed design criteria. They can be very personalized, down to exact drawer sizes for specific items. Often these cabinets are made by local fabricators who can produce furniture grade quality.

Custom cabinets offer a unique feature. A fabricator can assemble a single base cabinet or wall cabinet that is 6 - 8 feet long without seams. This cabinet can have a variety of doors, drawers, etc. depending upon your wants. Because it is one piece, installation time is minimal.

Current design trends appear to be leaning toward making kitchen cabinets look as close to furniture as possible. Some manufacturers offer a wide variety of accessory trim pieces such as crown molding, valances, cabinet legs, and highly customized appliance panels. These items, when professionally installed, can produce dramatic effects.

There is a minimum standard of quality which you should look for. This quality standard has been developed by the Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association (KCMA, www.kcma.org). The quality standard covers virtually every aspect of the cabinet's construction. Joint tightness, hinge, doors, rigidity, corner bracing, finishing details, and other details are checked in a series of more than 60 specific tests. These tests are conducted by independent testing laboratories approved by the KCMA.

Cabinets which pass these tests are eligible for the KCMA certification seal. Manufacturers must regularly provide cabinets for testing in order to continue to bear the KCMA certification seal.

You should pay particular attention to the finishing process and types of finish that your cabinets will receive. Remember that the KCMA standards, just like many standards, are minimum quality standards. Many normal foodstuffs, such as vinegar, fruit juices, olive oil, and mustard can possibly damage cabinet finishes that do not meet KCMA standards. Some detergents, alcohol, and water can also harm finishes. Ask detailed, specific questions regarding the number and types of finish coats that your cabinets will receive. Ask how thick the combined layers of finish are. Ask if the finish will dull or yellow with age. Remember, the finish takes the abuse, not the wood.

Electronic Tools For Home Use

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: Every time I visit my local home improvement center, I seem to see another new exciting electronic tool. Just what tools are you aware of? Are these tools safe in the hands of a homeowner, or should they only be used by professionals? Also, are the manufacturers' claims of accuracy, dependability, etc. factual? What is your personal experience with some of these tools? E. R.

DEAR E. R.: I share your excitement with respect to electronic tools. The industry has experienced fantastic growth during the past few years. Not only have sales gone through the roof, but new products seem to be introduced to the marketplace on a monthly basis. I only wish that some of these tools had been available years ago. There is no doubt that all of these tools would have saved me vast sums of time and money on my building and remodeling jobs!

Currently, I am aware of a wide variety of electronic tools. Electronic building calculators, electronic levels, ultrasonic measurement devices, laser levels, and ultrasonic sensing devices are currently on the market. I have been told that a new ultra wide band radar tool capable of "seeing" through concrete is ready to be released as well.

electronic calculator

This is the type of calculator you should own if you're going to build a new home. It allows you to CHECK to make sure things are SQUARE!!!

The electronic calculators are very interesting. They have many unique features such as the ability to add and subtract fractions, conversion to any dimensional format, including metric, automatic solutions for roof framing, instant solutions for circle area and circumference, and much more. If you like to work with electricity, you can even purchase a specific calculator which solves many common electrical problems.

The new electronic levels, I think, are very exciting. These items operate on a nine-volt battery for up to 500 hours. They are extremely accurate. Some models even let you control the degree of accuracy. Several of these levels allow you to choose the mode in which to work. The display will indicate a simulated bubble, degrees, percent either slope, or pitch. Some levels feature a hold button which can freeze a reading on the display, in case the level is in a hard to read location. You can also purchase an electronic water level which can be used by one person. This level allows you to create level marks around corners and across rooms by simply listening for a tone.

The ultrasonic measurement devices are fantastic tools if you hate fiddling with a steel or wood tape measure. What's more, several of these can measure, using a narrow ultrasonic beam, up to 60 feet with 99.5% accuracy. Some models are equipped with an aiming light which allows you to aim the device directly at what you are measuring. These devices are also calculators which can measure instantly the area and volume of a room. Virtually every device offers format conversion.

The laser levels I have seen are wonderful. In the old days, it required two persons to operate an optical level or builder's transit. Laser levels require only one person. You simply set the level up, turn it on, and watch for the rotating red beam of light. The light beam strikes whatever surface you are working on, or if out in the open, it strikes a reflective target pole which you adjust up or down. These levels are very handy.

Soon to be released is a new radar tool. This tool will enable you to see right through concrete or walls. The results will be displayed on a screen. You will be able to clearly see pipes, wires, studs, etc. The current sensing devices are useful for finding studs, however, this new device represents a giant step forward.

I personally feel that you or any homeowner can operate these tools and obtain professional results. I have used many of the tools and have never been disappointed. These tools will serve you well for many years, however, you must handle them with care. The accuracy of the tools depends upon their often sensitive, electronic components.

Asphalt Shingles and High Winds

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: Within the past few weeks, I had a new asphalt shingle roof installed on my house. Several days after the roof was installed, a fierce winter storm blew 30 percent of the shingles off my house. The manufacturer has indicated that the shingles were improperly installed. My roofer disagrees and says that the self sealing compound didn't work properly. I'm in the middle. What do you think? Also, the manufacturer noted that felt paper was not installed under the shingles. Was this a mistake? J. M.

DEAR J.M.: Based upon the photographs you sent to me, I feel that the manufacturer is telling you the truth. There are numerous problems with the workmanship on your roof. There is a chance that the self sealing compound is defective, however, this can easily be tested.

Asphalt shingles are far and away the most common roofing material used by American homeowners. They are well engineered and, when properly applied, will provide many years of leak-free performance. Unfortunately, your shingles were not applied properly.

The self sealing compound that your roofer is speaking of is a thermoplastic asphalt compound. It is a common ingredient of virtually every asphalt roofing shingle currently manufactured. This compound was introduced, at first as an option, during the mid-1960s. Its purpose is to bond each shingle to the one immediately below it. When the bonding process is completed, the shingles are less likely to develop wind-related leaks and failures.

This self sealing compound is activated by heat from the sun. In your case, a majority of your shingles didn't stand a chance. The greatest amount of wind-related failure on your roof occurred on the exposure which faces north. That portion of the roof, in your geographic location, doesn't even receive direct sunlight until April. The installation of asphalt shingles, in colder climates, during the winter months is not always prudent. If you wish to test the integrity of your self sealing compound, simulate the heat of the sun with an electric hair dryer. Do this inside with some of the pieces of the shingles that are scattered about your yard. Don't climb on the roof this time of year!

Your photographs also indicated two major problems. Many of the nails that were used to install the shingles were driven in the wrong location in each shingle. In many cases, they were installed through or above the self sealing asphalt strip. This practice is clearly wrong. Because your roofer was installing a shingle which exposes 5 inches of the shingle to the weather, the nails should have been installed 5 5/8 inches up from the bottom edge of each shingle. A minimum of four nails should be used for each shingle. If you live in an area subjected to high winds, a minimum of six nails should be used.

The starter course of shingles was also improperly installed. Your roofer simply rotated a full shingle and applied this under the first course of shingles. This is unacceptable. The starter course, or strip, is made by trimming the bottom 5 inches from a standard shingle. This places the ever-important self sealing compound at the bottom of the roof. This prevents wind from lifting the first course of shingles.

Felt paper is a must. Roofers that fail to use it under asphalt shingles are making a big mistake. Without felt paper, your shingles lose their fire rating. Shingles, in and of themselves, are not fire rated. They are a component of a system, of which felt is an important part. Felt also helps to prevent leaks from wind driven rains that may, somehow, penetrate the shingles. Imperfections in the wood decking also can be a problem in the absence of felt underlayment. These imperfections will more readily telegraph through today's thinner fiberglass shingles. Finally, many manufacturers will not warrant their shingles unless felt is used over a bare wood deck. It's that simple.

 

Garage Door Spring Adjustments

Posted on by Tim Carter
garage door springs

PHOTO BY: Kathy Carter

DEAR TIM: My husband and I recently purchased a house that is approximately 15 years old. It has an overhead garage door which is approximately 16 feet wide. I can open it, however, it takes quite a bit of effort. My husband says he can adjust the door so that I can open it with less effort. I would like to have an automatic opener installed. Can my husband make simple adjustments which will permit me to open the door? Do you think we can install an automatic opener successfully? L. M.

DEAR L.M.: Unless your husband works full time for a garage door service company, don't let him adjust the springs on the garage door. Garage door springs can be extremely dangerous. You must treat them like loaded weapons. Many a homeowner has been seriously injured by garage door springs and the cables which are attached to them. Garage door springs should only be adjusted by knowledgeable, professional individuals.

Garage doors are large, heavy mechanical objects. When you stop and think about it, they frequently are the biggest moving thing in your home. Your door, for example, probably weighs between 300 - 375 pounds. Give that some thought the next time you walk beneath it.

Garage door springs are designed to do virtually all of the work necessary to lift your garage door. They simply need a little help from you to get the job started. When garage doors are in the closed position, the springs are stretched very tightly and in their most dangerous state. The cables that are attached to the springs are under tremendous tension. Never loosen any hardware which is attached to a cable or spring.

In your case, I believe that your springs are either worn out or out of adjustment. Think how much force those springs must exert to lift your 300 + pound garage door. Think how many times in 15 years they have lifted that garage door. You would be tired too!

Very few homeowners are aware that garage doors require periodic maintenance. The hinges, rollers, springs, pulleys, cables, etc. are subject to wear and tear every time the garage door is operated. Rollers have been known to break when a door is opening. The result of a failure such as this can be catastrophic. Garage doors have been known to fall on top of a car, a person, or the garage floor. Regular routine inspections can prevent accidents such as these.

If you are mechanically inclined and have the proper tools, you can successfully install an automatic garage door opener. However, you must have the door springs adjusted prior to installing the opener. If the door springs are not adjusted properly, the life expectancy of the opener can be significantly reduced. Remember, the springs are supposed to open the door, not the opener.

When installing the opener, be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter. Mount the push-button wall control at least 5 feet above the floor. Small children love to push these buttons and often play games with moving garage doors. Should the built in safety features fail, tragedy is a real possibility. Also, try to disguise or hide the remote transmitters as well. Don't tempt children with these playtoys.

Finally, after installation of the opener, test the door to make sure the door automatically reverses. Virtually every new opener is equipped with infrared detectors mounted low to the floor. These detectors sense if someone or something walks beneath the door as it is closing. The openers also are equipped with sensing devices that tell the opener if it is striking an object before it is fully closed. These sensors, when adjusted properly, will also reverse the door and send it back to the open position.