Sound and Noise Control – Stop Air – Denser is Better

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My brother lives in a condominium complex. His unit is virtually soundproof. Rarely can you hear any exterior noise or sounds from other units. My current home is not soundproof. Can I do anything to lower sound transmission in my home? What could have been done during construction to make my house more soundproof? N.L.

DEAR N. L.: Excuse me, did you say something? I couldn't hear you. Just kidding! Soundproofing is an often misunderstood and neglected aspect of residential construction. I'm glad you asked the question. Perhaps it's best to start by understanding sound.

How is Noise or Sound Created?

Noise Control

Sound is created when something vibrates. Think about hitting a tuning fork against a hard surface. How about a rock-and-roll drummer hitting a cymbal or any of the drums?

These vibrations create sound waves that travel through the air. The sound waves then can either bounce off objects and/or cause them to begin vibrating.

What is Sympathetic Sound?

This additional vibration then creates sound waves on the other side of the object. This is how our ears work. Sound waves produced by a vibrating object travel through the air into our inner ear. These waves cause our eardrum to vibrate. Our brains then compute whether the vibrations are noise (unwanted sound) or pleasurable sounds such as conversation or music. I fully realize that some conversation and music can be noise depending on who's vocal cords are vibrating.

One way to minimize sympathetic sound is to make sure a wall assembly is not balanced. This is one reason a soundproof radio studio has window glass panes that are not parallel.

You can also add a 5/8-inch thick layer of drywall to one side of a wall that already has 1/2-inch drywall on both sides. If new construction, consider putting 1/2-inch drywall on one side of a wall and 5/8-inch on the other side to prevent sympathetic resonant vibration.

Dense or Thick Things Need More Energy

When sound is produced it has a certain amount of energy. The amount of energy is in direct proportion to the volume of the sound. So the louder a sound the greater its ability to vibrate objects such as walls, floors, and ceilings. If an object is lightweight or has a small density, it doesn't take much energy to get it to vibrate. Heavy, dense items require much greater amounts of energy to get them to vibrate. This is why older homes are more soundproof than newer homes. They tend to have thicker walls, ceilings, and floors.

What About Blocking Air?

Unfortunately, since your home is already built, the only sound that you can control is that sound which is still airborne. You need to block all pathways of air that are leaking air into the room.

Think of the room as an aquarium and begin plugging these leaks. For example, caulk all cracks in the room, especially where walls contact floors. Caulk holes inside of electrical boxes and around the edges of these boxes where they contact the drywall, plaster, or paneling. Install tight weatherstripping around doors and windows.

Soundproofing New Construction

If you are getting ready to build, you have many opportunities to soundproof. Remember, we need to stop airborne sound waves and those sound waves which travel by vibration through the structure.

Airborne sound waves can be stopped by using wall and floor materials that tend to absorb sound rather than reflect it. You can also have your builder caulk underneath all wall plates so that sound can't travel under a wall. Make sure that electrical outlet boxes from two back to back rooms are not in the same stud cavity. Install fiberglass sound batts in walls to block airborne sound waves that get into a wall cavity. Consider using insulated ductwork for your heating and cooling system.

Isolated Things That Vibrate

Vibrations caused by things in the house must be isolated. Do not allow plumbing pipes to touch framing members. Isolate them with pieces of rubber or caulk where they pass through floor joists and wall plates. Isolate any vibrating thing (furnaces, washing machines, dryers, fans, etc.) from direct contact with framing members. Without isolation, the vibrations will eventually create airborne sound waves which you will then hear.

Separate Wall Studs

Construct critical wall assemblies using two rows of studs which do not touch one another. The wall finish material for each room is applied on a separate row of studs. This stops the vibrations from one room from vibrating the drywall on the other side. If you can't afford two rows of studs, consider applying a metal resilient furring strip horizontally across the studs on each side of the wall. Then attach the drywall (two layers, if possible) to these strips. Apply 6 mil plastic to the studs before you apply the furring strips to the studs. This helps to isolate vibrations between the two objects.

Remember, stop the vibrations and you will stop the noise.

Skylight Installation Alternatives

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I'm thinking of adding a skylight to my kitchen area. I would really like to tackle the project myself even though my skills are limited. Many skylight manufacturers talk about flaring the shaft so that more light gets into the room. I only have three days to complete the project. My wife has started a neighborhood betting pool. The smart money says I can't finish the job in time. Can you share any tips or suggest an alternative method to get sunlight into my kitchen? G.Y.

DEAR G. Y.: I can help you, but first, what are the current odds? I might want some of that action. You better get plenty of rest, because if you choose to install a skylight, you are going to be busy!

Skylight Installation

I am installing blocking in between the ceiling joists.

I have installed hundreds of skylights. Some installations are more difficult than others, especially the flashing details between the skylight and the roofing materials. If you don't pick a skylight that has a pre-engineered flashing system, you might spend three days up on the roof. Pre-engineered flashing systems make quick work up on the roof.

Flaring skylight shafts is a very good idea. If you happen to own a flashlight that has an adjustable beam you already know why. Flaring the shaft of a skylight tunnel allows more light to enter the room. However, flaring a skylight tunnel also adds slightly more time and material to the installation.

Flaring the skylight shaft may not even be an option in your case if your roof is constructed of pre-engineered roof trusses. Trusses should not be cut. Only a structural engineer can make this determination.

If you are determined to try this project, here is what you will need to do. By the end of the first day, you must have the skylight properly installed. This means that if you had to cut any roof rafters, you have properly strengthened adjacent rafters to carry the additional load that used to be supported by the cut rafter(s). It also means that all flashing work is complete on the roof.

By lunch time of the second day you had better have the skylight shaft framing complete. Take a short break for lunch and get busy installing your insulation on the side walls of the shaft. When finished, apply your drywall. Just before going to bed make sure you have taped the drywall and put a first coat of fast setting joint compound on all the nails, screws, and cornerbead.

Skylight Installation

This particular product required face screws through the plastic outer dome to secure it to the roof.

On the third day, use fast setting joint compound for your second and final coats. If all goes well, you can sand the compound after lunch and complete your painting by supper time. Before you decide to jump into the project, only on two occasions have I been able to meet such a deadline.

As an alternative, why not consider installing one or more of the new tubular skylights. These are nifty devices that actually pipe sunlight directly into just about any space you choose. What's more, if everything goes right, you can have one of these completely installed in about 4 hours.

These devices are comprised of a flush or domed diffuser which is cut into your ceiling, a highly polished steel or aluminum pipe, and a clear acrylic dome on the roof which lets the light into the pipe. If your kitchen roof faces south, you will be pleasantly surprised as to how much light one of these sun tubes will let into your kitchen.

There are three distinct advantages that these tubes have over conventional skylights: no framing, plastering, or painting is necessary. The use of the highly polished pipe or tube eliminates all of this work. You simply need to cut a hole in your ceiling for the diffuser, install the flashing on the roof, insert the pipe and the dome and BINGO you're done. Just think, if you play your cards right you'll have 2 plus days to golf!

Vinyl Window Tips

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I went shopping for vinyl windows this weekend and was quickly overwhelmed. While they all appear basically the same, there seem to be differences. For example, why are some windows certified and others not? Does it make a difference how the windows and frames are connected? Finally, all the windows appear to be white, but when samples are held side by side, some are a blue-white color. What I thought was going to be an easy purchase has turned into a nightmare. Wake me up! D.E.

DEAR D. E.: You are awake, but you have crossed over into the vinyl window dimension. The only experience I can compare it with is a trip through a house of mirrors at a county fair. You must proceed cautiously and slowly through this difficult maze.

Let's start with your certification concern. The American National Standards Institute, Inc.(ANSI) and the American Architectural Manufacturers Association(AAMA) joined together to produce voluntary specifications for vinyl window construction. These specifications are very technical and deal with issues concerning durability and safety.

The certification program is very tough. Windows must be constructed using certified components, such as high quality vinyl, glass, and weatherstripping. Windows are tested randomly and periodically for a manufacturer to maintain certification status. Make sure the windows you purchase are constructed using the most recent guidelines, ANSI/AAMA 101-93. A sticker on the window frame should contain language indicating that the windows are approved.

Construction of vinyl windows is very important. There are two basic methods: mechanical connections and fully welded construction. Both types of construction can pass the rigid testing as outlined by the ANSI/ AAMA specifications. Mechanically connected windows are assembled by using screws, brackets, and caulk at the corners of the windows and frames. Connections can loosen or fail during the trip from the factory to your home. Fully welded construction takes advantage of the chemistry of vinyl. After the sections of the frame and window are cut, the mitered corners are heated. Once assembled and cooled, the two pieces of vinyl actually become one.

Heat (from direct sunlight), however, can cause big problems with some vinyl windows. Very close to 160 degrees F, most vinyls begin to loose some of their rigidity. Stress can cause frames to sag and distort. If you live in the South or Southwest, windows that face west can take a beating in the late afternoon. It is absolutely essential that you purchase high quality vinyl if you feel your windows will be exposed to this type of sunlight.

Quality windows are often constructed using frames which have many separate chambers. The cooler chambers which are away from direct sunlight help to hold the heated portions of the vinyl in shape. Steel inserts can also be used in larger windows. However, be sure the steel is encased in an inner chamber that is then welded shut. If not, your vinyl windows may actually start to rust!

The large number of chambers also provides another benefit. When mitered for assembly, the cut edge of a frame exposes the edges of the chambers. These are the parts which are heated and welded together. The more edges you have, the stronger the weld will be. In fact, manufacturers can tell you the square inch area of welded vinyl at each corner. Purchase a window with the highest square inch area.

The color differences you noticed are real. Some vinyls used in windows will change color when exposed to sunlight. Almost all vinyls will eventually begin to yellow. However, some will yellow much quicker than others. Some, not all, manufacturers tint their vinyl blue to delay this process. There are high quality blue vinyl windows, however. If you want these for your house, be sure to look for the ANSI/AAMA label.

Quality vinyl windows contain high amounts of titanium dioxide. Windows which have high amounts of this pigmenting chemical are almost always pure white. High quality vinyl also contains an organic form of the metal tin which also helps to stop the yellowing process. If the people in the window showroom act surprised about these things, keep shopping!

Asphalt Sealers

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I'm a do-it-yourselfer and would like your opinion. My blacktop driveway is 3 years old and has never been sealed. It still appears black in color. My boyfriend tells me that I can wait another few years before sealing it. I have also heard that gasoline and oil can hurt blacktop. Is this true? If so, can you recommend a treatment to prevent this damage? How often should I seal my driveway? C.O.

DEAR C. O.: Hurry! Get to the local building supply store as fast as you can. You have already waited too long! Your driveway should have been sealed at some point within its first year depending upon your geographic location.

Blacktop or asphalt paving is a very interesting surfacing material. The asphalt industry actually markets the material as a flexible pavement. This claim arises from the fact that the asphalt cement, the material that holds together the small pieces of stone and sand in the blacktop, can remain pliable for a long period of time. This quality helps the asphalt or blacktop to resist cracks if installed properly.

However, asphalt which is exposed to air and sunlight will begin to loose this flexibility. The asphalt actually begins to oxidize. Ultraviolet light (UV) from the sun also helps to breakdown the asphalt cement. This is where problems begin to happen. If the asphalt oxidizes, it becomes brittle.The bond between it and the sand and stone particles(aggregate) begins to fail. The result of this process is cracking and loosening of individuals pieces of aggregate. If you live in a climate that experiences cold weather, this process is accelerated by water which enters these cracks and then freezes.

Blacktop sealers block air and sunlight from attacking the asphalt cement. There are several different types of sealers. The traditional sealers contain the same asphalt that is used in the original blacktop. The asphalt in these sealers is often mixed with water and a soapy compound called an emulsifier. This sealer tends to have the shortest lifespan and offers little or no protection from the UV rays from the sun.

Another type of sealer contains refined coal tar. These sealers offer excellent resistance to gasoline and oil. Gasoline and motor oil can actually dissolve the asphalt cement in blacktop. The coal tar sealers also contain small clay particles and an emulsifier which enables you to apply it easily. Some refined coal tar sealers are polymer modified. These added chemicals often provide, extra UV protection, richer color, and longer life.

Would you like to have a gorgeous driveway? How about step-by-step photos and instructions that show you how I had my own tar and chip drive installed? If so, you might want my Instant Download Tar and Chip eBook.

The most expensive sealers are those that are entirely man made. They usually contain high amounts of acrylic polymers. These are the sealers you often see on tennis courts. They are available in black for driveways. These sealers offer the best overall protection and frequently can last twice as long as a conventional sealer.

You have probably seen these sealers available with sand. Sand is a beneficial ingredient. It helps to seal the pores in the blacktop, improves foot and car traction, and helps the sealer to last longer on your driveway.

One of the biggest mistakes I see homeowners make is sealing their driveways too often. It is best to wait until the previous coat of sealer has worn off before applying a new coat of sealer.This will happen at different rates on different driveways because of traffic volume and exposure to weather and sunlight.

The test for wear is really quite simple. The aggregate used in the blacktop is often some other color than black. Here in the Midwest, the small stone chips are primarily limestone, which is gray in color. When you see your blacktop beginning to gray, as my daughter constantly tells me when looking at my hair, it is time to reseal your driveway. By the way, do not use blacktop sealer as a hair colorant, it can burn your scalp.

Treated Lumber – Clean & Seal

Posted on by Tim Carter
cracked deck post

Look at the giant crack in this 4x4. The post was probably fine when installed, but the loss of moisture created tension within the lumber and caused the wood to split apart. PHOTO CREDIT: Suzanne Wieczorek

DEAR TIM: What do you know about treated lumber? I purchased treated lumber for a deck many years ago. At that time, the lumber companies said it would last a lifetime. Now they are saying that the lumber should be treated and sealed on a regular basis, even brand new lumber. Is this true? If so, why? What is the best way to clean and seal my treated lumber? R. A.

DEAR R. A.: I am by no means an expert on treated lumber, however there are several things that I can tell you which may shock and surprise you. Number one, your treated lumber must be sealed. The lifetime warranty that many of the treated lumbers carry covers rotting and insect infestation. The warranty does not cover appearance characteristics.

Wood is one of the most fascinating building materials that I have ever had the pleasure of working with. You can do just about anything with it. But, as with all things, you must take the good with the bad. The only bad quality that wood possesses, in my opinion, is that it is not dimensionally stable. The size of a piece of wood changes, often dramatically, in response to the amount of water which it contains at any given time.

Treated lumber, by its very nature, has massive quantities of moisture in it when it leaves the treatment plant. Untreated boards are stacked inside a giant vacuum chamber. The air in the chamber (and from inside the cells of the wood) is sucked out. The chamber is flooded with water which contains chemical preservatives. The chamber is then pressurized. The chemicals, because of this process, penetrate deeply into the wood. Often pieces of wood are so saturated with these preservatives, that it squirts out when driving a nail.

Wood deck surfaces need to be cleaned and sealed to keep them in good condition. The cleaner I recommend is oxygen bleach.

EB015 Cleaning & Sealing Deck eBoo Cover

Wind and sun action begin a slow, destructive process that results in cracks, twisting, warping, cupping, and discoloration of any type of lumber. The top layer of wood fibers exposed to the sun's ultraviolet light can be rapidly destroyed. These effects can be minimized by blocking sunlight and slowing the evaporation of the water from the wood. That is why you must seal treated lumber. Some treated lumbers are available with factory applied sealants. Those that are not must be sealed immediately.

Cleaning and sealing treated lumber must be done on a periodic basis. There are many different cleaners and sealers that you can choose to use. Some are good and some not so good.

First, let's talk about cleaners and brighteners. Some cleaners and brighteners contain chlorine bleach. Chlorine bleach is not a great thing to use on treated lumber or any lumber for that matter. It can leave your deck looking quite white and unnatural.

Bleach can also harm surrounding vegetation. Consider using a cleaner that contains oxygen bleach. Oxygen bleach is very effective at removing dirt, mildew , and algae. It also does a great job of removing the sun damaged wood fibers. When using a cleaner, always brush it with a stiff scrub brush to get the best results. The brushing action removes the top layer of damaged wood fibers.

Treated lumber sealants can be very confusing. I'll bet that you have seen water repellents, sealers, preservatives, and clear finishes on store shelves. They are not all the same by any stretch of the imagination. To begin with, try to avoid using "all purpose" products. Stick with products that are designed specifically for treated lumber or exterior wood.

When selecting a sealer, try to choose one that is a penetrating water repellent. Look for ones that are formulated using synthetic oils and resins. Look for products that have three things in particular: mildewcides, algaecides, and ultraviolet (UV) blockers. Products that contain these three things (or any combination) are much better than a simple wood sealer or water repellent. Don't underestimate the importance of the UV blocker.

Remember, treated lumber needs to be sealed immediately after installation. If you wait any length of time, all kinds of problems will begin to occur. Quality products are available which can be applied directly to your new treated lumber. Don't hesitate to apply them!

Message from Tim:

Years ago while researching a column about cleaning decks, I discovered the wonders of Oxygen Bleach. It is perhaps the 'greenest' cleaner I know of as it uses oxygen ions to break apart stains, dirt and odor molecules. There are no harsh chemicals, and it works on just about anything that is water washable.

I decided to create my own special blend using ingredients made in the USA. In fact, the raw materials in the active ingredient are food-grade quality registered with the FDA. I call my product Stain Solver. I urge you to use it to help clean your cedar shakes. You will be amazed at the results!

Exterior Front Doors

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: It's time for a new exterior front door at my house. I love the look of our existing 70 year old wood door, but it never seems to fit right. It's either too tight or too loose. After looking around, I am astonished at the variety of different materials that are now being used to construct doors. Is there any one you prefer? Is there anything I should watch out for? T. I.

DEAR T. I.: I couldn't agree with you more. Exterior door systems have seen tremendous technological breakthroughs in the past 5-10 years. The most appealing doors to me are those that combine several different materials to make a realistic, if not actual, wood door.

Based upon your photo, your existing front door appears to be a 6 panel solid fir door. Solid wood doors can behave in an unruly fashion if not sealed completely. The humidity in the air can make solid wood doors warp and bow, causing them to fit poorly in the frames. My guess is that the top and bottom edges of your door have been neglected. They should have been varnished each time the door was refinished.

There are four primary categories of new exterior doors: steel, fiberglass, composites, and real wood. Believe it or not, the first three categories contain doors, which may be of interest to you.

Steel doors make up a majority exterior door sales in today's market. Steel is dimensionally stable. Humidity will not cause a steel door to warp or twist. You can purchase steel doors that have synthetic wood grained embossed finishes that accept stains. When finished, it is hard to tell these doors from the real thing. Just about every steel exterior door is filled with some type of foam. This foam allows the doors to achieve R-values almost five times that of an ordinary wood door.

Fiberglass entry doors are gaining in popularity. They are very similar to steel doors, however, they tend to be much more resilient. Steel doors can be dented somewhat easily. Many fiberglass doors are also stainable and have rich, realistic wood graining. When finished properly, it is almost impossible to distinguish that the door is not really wood. Fiberglass doors are also insulated with foam and have high R-values.

Some of the most fascinating doors are the composite doors. These doors often take two different materials and blend them together. For instance, one manufacturer uses a composite fiber-reinforced core that is twice as strong as wood. This core will not rot, warp, or twist when subjected to high levels of humidity. This core is then completely surrounded with real wood. The door is actually wood, but yet its not. It offers the beauty of wood, but not the problems.

Last, but not least, are real wood doors. Not all wood doors made today are like their ancestors. Many of the wood doors are made by laminating different, more stable pieces of lumber into a core. This core is then covered with a thin veneer of just about any species of wood you care to have.

Other solid wood doors are manufactured using a cut and turn method. Different parts of the door start out by using one solid piece of lumber. However, this piece of lumber is often sliced lengthwise into one or more pieces. After being cut, every other piece is rotated 180 degrees and then all the pieces are glued together. This makes the re-solidified' piece of wood much more resistant to warping and bowing.

When shopping for a new door, pay strict attention to finishing instructions. Many of these new doors require specific stains and finishes to achieve good results. Follow directions to the letter. Also, be sure to look for doors that offer adjustable thresholds. These devices allow you to adjust the threshold up or down seasonally, in the event the bottom door sweep fails to contact the threshold for some reason.

 

Cedar Shake Roof Care – Special Cleaner

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I just purchased a home that has a cedar shake roof. My concern is maintenance. The previous owner of the house says I don't have to do anything. My intuition tells me he is wrong. Is there anything I should be doing to maximize the life of the roof? Also, I am very concerned about the possible fire hazard of a cedar roof. Is there a danger? Are cedar shakes really that great when compared to other roofing products? V. E.

DEAR V. E.: Cedar shake roofs have many positive qualities. When installed properly, they are extremely wind resistant. Believe it or not, they actually have twice the insulating value of standard asphalt shingles. Hail does not easily damage cedar shakes. When treated with certain chemicals, cedar shakes can be made permanently fire resistant.

Cedar shake roofs, no doubt, have a certain amount of prestige as a roofing material. That explains why many of the other roofing product companies manufacture materials that simulate real cedar shakes. The texture, color, and appearance of a cedar shake roof is undeniably appealing. However, this beauty comes with a price tag. Cedar shake roofs do require a certain amount of maintenance to maximize their useful life. The enemies of cedar shakes, as you might expect, are water and sunlight.

Many people know that cedar contains high amounts of naturally occurring chemicals which help preserve the wood. These chemicals are called extractives. They dissolve easily in water. Need I say more. In certain conditions, rainfall can leach these chemicals from the cedar shakes in less than 10 years.

Ultraviolet light (UV) from the sun actually causes the surface cells of the cedar to break down. This microscopic refuse is washed away with each rainfall. UV rays also cause very tiny cracks to develop which allows water to drive deeper into the shakes. This simply accelerates the process of dissolving the extractive chemicals.

The key to maintaining a cedar shake roof is to keep it dry. Yes, I realize that sounds funny. What I mean is that after a rainfall, a cedar roof needs to dry out as rapidly as possible. The shakes must be free of moss, fungus, debris (twigs, pine needles, leaves, etc.), or any other thing that can trap and hold moisture. Overhanging tree branches must be sufficiently high so as to provide good air circulation above the roof.

Chemical preservatives are available which can be applied to cedar shakes. These preservatives when applied to clean, dry cedar shakes can dramatically add years of life to a cedar roof. Most of these chemicals can be applied with a hand held sprayer. Professionals who treat cedar roofs for a living have pressurized machines that allow them to do large roof areas in a short amount of time.

If you decide to clean and treat your roof yourself, you need to exercise extreme caution. You need to protect yourself from the dangers of falling. You need to protect your roof from the dangers of cleaning. Cedar shake roofs that are damp, covered with moss, or any object can be extremely slippery. I once stepped on some moss on a low pitched cedar roof and ended up at the gutter before I realized what had happened. Serious and fatal injuries are a very realistic threat.

The use of mechanical power washing equipment used in untrained hands can seriously damage your shakes. Cedar is a soft wood. Cedar that is covered with damp moss is even softer. A power washer that has too much pressure or is too close to the shakes can erode the wood. Simply use some common sense when cleaning.

A great cleaner for cedar shake roofs or decks is oxygen bleach. This non-toxic cleaner is a powder you mix with water. It will not harm the cedar roofing nor anything else it contacts. You must saturate the shakes for about 10 minutes with the solution making sure it does not evaporate. Lightly scrub the shingles with a push broom and rinse with a garden hose. The shakes will look brand new!

Message from Tim:

Years ago while researching a column about cleaning decks, I discovered the wonders of Oxygen Bleach. It is perhaps the 'greenest' cleaner I know of as it uses oxygen ions to break apart stains, dirt and odor molecules. There are no harsh chemicals, and it works on just about anything that is water washable.

I decided to create my own special blend using ingredients made in the USA. In fact, the raw materials in the active ingredient are food-grade quality registered with the FDA. I call my product Stain Solver. I urge you to use it to help maintain your cedar shakes. You will be amazed at the results!

Water Pressure Drop Problems

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: Every time two or more plumbing fixtures are used in my brand new house the water pressure is horrible. The water flow is reduced to a trickle. When just one fixture is used the water flow is fine. It is very annoying. The plumber who installed the 1/2 inch diameter piping says this is normal. Is there anything that can be done to correct the problem? T. H.

DEAR T. H.: Ah hah! Another victim of slow flow! Did your plumber mumble something about "... normal for undersized pipes"? Don't despair, there is a good chance I can help you with your problem. Thousands of people like you suffer unnecessarily.

It all started a little over 300 years ago with a guy named Robert Boyle. He figured out that when all the faucets are turned off in your house, the pressure is the same just about everywhere in your water piping system. But, when you turn just one faucet on and let water start to flow, crazy things start to happen.

First, when the water leaves the big water main pipe in the street, it has a certain amount of energy. As it starts to go through the pipe under your lawn, it rubs against the edges of the pipe and looses energy. This loss of energy results in a pressure drop. Then, when the water starts going around bends and turns in the pipe, it looses even more energy. Deposits on the inner walls of older pipes, also, can add to this energy loss.

The rate at which water looses energy or pressure depends upon the size of the pipe the water is flowing through. It can be dramatic. Let's say your water pressure is 60 pounds per square inch (PSI) as it enters your house. It's 7 a.m. and 4 people are using two bathrooms. If the water has to travel through just 80 or so feet of 1/2 inch pipe to get to the bathrooms, the pressure, as it leaves any of the bath fixtures, is now only about 28 PSI.

Guess what the pressure would have been had your plumber substituted 3/4 inch pipe for the 1/2 inch pipe? 54 PSI!!! Guess how much extra money it would have cost your (you!) plumber to put this larger pipe up to those two bathrooms? It could have been done for less than $70. You can partially relieve this problem by replacing as much visible 1/2 inch pipe as possible. Do this for both your hot and cold water lines. Replace it with 3/4 inch pipe. In an average sized house, this replacement project can be done by purchasing about $150 worth of pipe and fittings.

If you are getting ready to build a new home, insist on using 1 inch pipe from the street to your house. Assuming your house is 100 feet from the water main, you will only loose 2 PSI by the time the water enters your house. The cost to upgrade to this pipe is often less than $100.

Water pressure problems are easily avoidable. Simply tell your plumber to use 3/4 inch pipe as the main feeder pipe. Only use 1/2 inch pipe to branch off this main pipe as you head to each fixture. Do this, and you will always be singing in the shower.

High Efficiency Air Filters

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My air conditioning system didn't work when I turned it on for the first time this season. After spending $60 on a service call, I found out that a huge block of ice had formed inside my furnace. The service woman said my coil was dirty. That doesn't make sense. Seems to me, the air would be much cooler if it was blowing over a block of ice. What happened? Can it be prevented in the future? I'm hot about this problem! R. A.

DEAR R. A.: Cool down, take a break! Once that ice melted and the coil was cleaned, I'll bet you were in good shape. However, you possibly caused the problem by not changing your furnace's air filter on a regular basis.

There is a coil inside your furnace through which air blows. This coil has lots of thin fins. Attached to these fins is a small continuous tube which contains refrigerant. This refrigerant begins to boil inside the tube as the warm or hot air from your house passes over the coil. Prior to boiling, the refrigerant was very cold and as the heat from the air is transferred to the refrigerant the air temperature drops.

When you turn your air conditioner on, the main blower in your furnace begins to recirculate the air through your house. The moist, humid air passes over the cold fins of the coil. The water in the air condenses on the fins just like on a cold glass of iced tea on your patio table. Everything works fine if enough warm moist air can pass over the fins fast enough. If not, the temperature of the fins can drop below 32 degrees F. Ice starts to form on the fins and soon your coil is a solid block of ice.

In your case, the air passageways between the fins became blocked by dirt. This dirt slowed down the air trying to get through the coil. A clogged air filter in your furnace can also slow down the air passing through the coil.

You can prevent this problem by considering the use of higher efficiency air filters. Standard inexpensive spun glass filters are almost always less than 20 percent efficient. Some of them may only be 6-8 percent efficient. These filters are designed to protect your heating and air conditioning equipment, not cleanse the air.

You can purchase air filters that will not only protect your equipment, but also do a remarkable job of cleaning your interior air. These filters can trap very small particles of dust, pollen, mold, and other irritants. Some of these filters work much like the air and oil filters in your car. They are made using pleated filter paper. Other filters are made with fine synthetic polyester fibers. Higher efficiency air filters can sometimes be coated with chemicals that can kill tiny microbes such as bacteria and mold.

There are several advantages to using these higher efficiency air filters. Not only will your heating and cooling equipment perform better, your operating costs may well be lower. The air you breathe will be cleaner, as will your furniture and drapes. That $60 service call could have bought 10 filters that may have lasted through five cooling seasons!

Patching Concrete

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I have tried to patch several areas of my concrete steps, driveway, and sidewalk with little success. Usually, after one year or so, the patch material either crumbles, or completely detaches from the concrete. The weather is always excellent when I patch: sunny, breezy, and hot. Help! What can I do to make the patches stick to the concrete? S.H.

DEAR S. H.: The first thing you need to do is reorganize your schedule. Sunny, breezy, hot days are great for the beach. They are not so great for patching concrete. Sweater weather (50 - 60 degrees F) is a good time for patching concrete.

Your patching attempts failed for any number of reasons. Many of the reasons involve water. High temperatures, sunlight, and wind can rapidly remove water from concrete patching compounds. What's more, the concrete you were trying to patch was probably very dry. In all likelihood, it absorbed water from the patching compound much like a sponge.

This is concrete made to look like brick. Believe it or not, this would be an easy surface to patch. The pattern of the brick is much easier to mimic than a perfectly smooth regular concrete slab.

This is concrete made to look like brick. Believe it or not, this would be an easy surface to patch. The pattern of the brick is much easier to mimic than a perfectly smooth regular concrete slab.

The water, you added to the dry patching compound, is needed for two reasons. It makes the mix workable. It also is a chemical ingredient. A certain amount of water must be retained within the patching compound for it to become strong. When mixing, water must be added to the dry patching compound with respect. Add too much water and the mix will be weak. Add too little water and the mix might not bond well to the old concrete.

There are numerous things you can do to increase your chances of success. Some of them involve work practices. Others involve your choice of patching materials. Let's start with the different types of patching materials.

Consider purchasing patching materials that contain polymer additives or blended cements. Patching materials that contain these things often stick much better to older concrete. If you see the words "acrylic", "vinyl", or "gypsum cement" on the label, chances are you are in good shape. You can also use liquid additives. Some of these additives are mixed with the patching compound, while others are applied to the surface to be patched. 100 percent epoxy patching compounds are also available.

It is important to prepare the area to be patched. Take some time and remove all loose material and dust. Consider chiseling or saw cutting the edges of the area to be patched. If the edges of the patch are just 1/8 inch deep, the thinner patching compounds often have a better chance to stick to your old concrete. Be sure to wear safety goggles to protect your eyes if you choose to do this.

If using a patching compound that requires water, dampen the area to be patched with a little water. This added water will prevent the dry concrete from stealing water from the patching compound. Try to perform your work on cool, overcast days. If you must work in hot weather, after you are satisfied with the finished texture of your patch, cover it with a piece of plastic and shade the patch from the sun. The plastic and shade will slow down the evaporation of water from the patching compound. Keep the plastic on the patch for a minimum of 3 - 4 days, if possible.