A/C – Furnace Replacement – Payback Periods

Posted on September 30, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: It is time to replace my 12 year old outdoor air conditioning (A/C) unit. I intend to purchase the highest efficiency unit available. My indoor furnace still has a useful life of approximately 10 years. Does it make economic sense to tear out the good furnace for a new super efficient furnace? Is there anything else to consider in this decision? R. E.

DEAR R.E.: Yikes! You are about to cross over into the most complicated dimension of home construction and maintenance. Heating and cooling equipment and its proper installation is by far the most technical aspect of residential construction. One mistake here and you will be miserable for quite some time. To answer your question, we need to calculate the remaining life cycle cost of your existing furnace. We need your last year's utility bills.

Pick a bill from the spring and the fall of last year when you know your furnace and A/C were not in use. Add these two together, divide by two, and then multiply the result by 14. This total is considered your "base" utility load. I define base load as the sum total of all electric and gas you might use other than that which goes into your furnace or air conditioner. Take all of last year's utility bills and add them together. Subtract the "base" load. The remainder is the annual cost to heat your home. Now, let's project what it is going to cost to heat your home for the next 10 years. Assuming a 2 percent per year increase in fuel costs, multiply your annual heating cost by 11.07. This should give you an accurate cost to heat your home for the next 10 years. We also need to assume that you will not need any major repairs during the next 10 years.

Let's look at the new system. For sake of discussion, assume you will be getting a furnace that is 95 percent efficient. Based upon the age of your existing furnace, I will assume that it is approximately 75 percent efficient. In this case, you should experience a dollar savings of approximately 21 percent per year in fuel savings (95 - 75 =20 20/95=21).

Will this savings over the next 10 years pay for the added cost of the new furnace? What kind of interest income can you get if you invest the money you might spend for the new furnace? Will the annual interest income offset a major portion of the higher annual fuel cost you are now experiencing? All of these things and more need to be considered.

It gets worse. There is a possibility that the new A/C unit will not operate at its rated efficiency if you don't modify your existing indoor equipment. Published efficiency ratings of outdoor cooling equipment can only be achieved when they are installed with specific types of indoor equipment.

If you mix and match equipment, ask the contractor for verification that the new A/C unit will, in fact, operate at the published efficiency. Discuss whether or not indoor modifications are necessary. Investigate warranties as well. See which warranty offers the best protection. Study who backs the warranty. Some companies have a third party involved in long term warranty claims. Read the fine print!

Straight Talk about Levels

Posted on September 30, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My carpenter's level doesn't seem to be working right. The bubbles in the vials don't seem to read the same when you rotate the level. Is there an easy way to test mine? If I buy a new one what should I look for? What kind do you use? G. U.

DEAR G. U.: Your level may be perfectly fine. Do you remember dropping it recently? One of the endcaps may have shifted. You may have created an undetected high spot at one end of the level. Also check to see if the edges of the level are smooth. A piece of dried mud, glue, caulk, etc. may be creating your error.

If you can't find the problem, you can make a copy of an ancient Egyptian level. They made accurate levels by creating a simple A frame using a perfectly straight, horizontal brace or bottom member. A plumb bob was suspended from the apex of the A frame to the bottom brace. The clever builders then marked a point just below the bob while the horizontal brace was parallel with a small stationary body of water. From then on whenever they set this contraption on a surface and the plumb bob lined up with the mark, the surface was level!

However, before you go to that trouble let's do a quick test of your existing level. We need two 1 inch long flat head wood screws, a hammer, and a screwdriver. Find a nearly horizontal rigid piece of wood. This might be a beam, a foundation sill plate, etc. Hammer the screws into the wood about one half inch. I would like the distance between the screws to be 2 inches less than the length of your level.

Place the level on the screws. Adjust one screw until the bubble in the vial is perfectly centered. Rotate the level 180 degrees keeping the same bottom edge on the screws. If the bubble remains centered in the vial, this edge and its vial are OK. If the bubble shifts, the level is off by one half the difference of the bubble's shift. Flip the level over and check the other edge in the same fashion. You can do the exact same procedure using a vertical surface to check the plumb vials.

If your level happens to be a high quality one, the test will be easy. High quality levels have extremely well made and calibrated bubble vials. The edges of the bubble will just kiss the lines on the vial. You will not have to wonder when the bubble is centered. Lesser quality vials often require you to guess. These are the ones where the bubble is smaller or larger than the distance between the two lines. If you decide to purchase a new level, pay attention to the bubble vial's sensitivity. A good level has high sensitivity. Its bubble will move more quickly as the angle of the level is changed.

I happen to own wooden levels. Mahogany levels are usually very stable and have excellent weight distribution characteristics. I look for levels that have glass windows protecting the vials. Glass is more scratch resistant than plastic.

If you want a really nifty level, why not consider an electronic one? Some of these levels combine traditional bubble vials and electronic wizardry to take the guesswork out of making something level or plumb. The electronic window tells you degrees of angle, slope in percent, and even inches per foot. With these tools any DIY'r can easily run with the big dog carpenters!

	Stanley 42-324 24-Inch I-Beam 180 Level
	Stanley 43-511 Magnetic Shock Resistant Torpedo Level
	Stanley 42-480 48-Inch Professional I-Beam Level
	Stanley FatMax 43-524 24-Inch Non-Magnetic Level
	Darice 91095-01 Mini Level Picture Hanging
	Empire EM51.48 Heavy Duty Magnetic Aluminum Level, 48-Inch
	Empire em81.9 True Blue 9-Inch Heavy-duty Magnetic Aluminum Torpedo Level
	Stanley 42-294 8-Inch Torpedo Level
	Stabila 37816 48-Inch and 16-Inch Aluminum Box Beam Level Set
	Stanley FatMax 43-572 72-Inch Non-Magnetic Level

Amazon.com Widgets

The above is an affiliate link. I get a tiny commission if you purchase this item from Amazon.

Tar and Chip Driveway

Posted on September 30, 2003 by Tim Carter

"A tar and chip driveway is durable, colorful, and inexpensive. Can you imagine having a green, red, or gold driveway?"

Tim Carter - Founder | AsktheBuilder.com

This column was so popular, even years after it was published, that Tim shared it with his 31,000 readers in the February 20, 2019 AsktheBuilder Newsletter.

Tar and Chip Driveway - Colors are Possible!

DEAR TIM: It's time for a new driveway at my house. I really like the look of a gravel road but don't want the dust. Blacktop is simply too plain. I have seen roads constructed using asphalt and small gravel. Can this be done on a residential driveway? Is it practical? What about the cost? L. A.

CLICK or TAP HERE for a FULL TRANSCRIPT of the above video

DEAR L.A.: You bet they are possible. That's the exact type of driveway I have. Locally they are called tar and chip. Some other installers refer to them as seal chip or shoot and chip. No matter what you call them they are a dynamic, beautiful surface. I happened to use two distinctive brown gravels, one from the Meramec River in Missouri and one from an Indiana location. Quite possibly this stone or a similar one is available in your city.

Is Tar and Chip Like Blacktop?

A tar and chip driveway is very similar to standard blacktop in composition. Both types of driveway use asphalt cement as the ingredient which creates adhesion to the aggregate. Blacktop is mixed at a central plant. The asphalt cement completely coats the large, small, and fine pieces of aggregate.

Tar and chip surfaces combine either a special cutback liquid asphalt cement or an emulsified asphalt cement and small similar sized pieces of clean, angular, washed gravel. These ingredients are mixed together at your house.

FREE & FAST Tar & Chip BIDS

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local tar and chip contractors.

Is Tar and Chip Used on Major Roads?

Tar and chip surfaces are still used in many parts of the USA. This method of paving was standard fare on virtually every highway in the USA prior to 1935. Central mixed blacktop technology was just beginning at this time. Tar and chip surfaces are a wonderful alternative that is, unfortunately, being left by the side of the road.

How is Tar and Chip Installed?

The contractor applies the hot, liquid asphalt to a standard gravel base or your existing driveway if it is in good shape. They usually spread one-half gallon of asphalt per square yard.

The small cubic shaped pieces of gravel are then immediately embedded in the liquid asphalt. Often they are applied at a rate of 40 - 50 pounds per square yard. The stones are then rolled and compacted into the asphalt. It is not uncommon for two layers to be installed. That is what I did.

Get the best-looking Tar and Chip Driveway around! Use my Asphalt/Blacktop/Tar & Chip Installation & Repair Checklist and learn what to ask your contractor. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

The completed surface differs as well. The tar and chip surface is almost always rougher. This makes for excellent traction. Not only that, the surface is not black. The color of your driveway is the color of the gravel you choose. If you wish to have a unique country look, you can cover the driveway with a thin (1/2 inch) layer of the colored gravel. This works great on level drives. I don't recommend loose stones on sloped driveways.

What is the Best Weather to Install?

These driveways can only be installed in favorable weather conditions. Hot, dry weather is ideal. If the weather is cool, the asphalt cement may cool and set up to rapidly. The gravel may not achieve a high level of adhesion. Rain can wash away an emulsified asphalt before it cures.

Do Cracks Fill Themselves?

These driveways have a unique feature. They can heal themselves if a small crack develops. In hot weather, the asphalt cement can flow into the crack. The loose stones work in conjunction to disguise this imperfection. As long as the right asphalt cement and the correct chip size is selected, the asphalt does not get on your shoes. We have never had a problem in my house.

Tar and Chip Driveway Cost

These surfaces are inexpensive. Often they cost less than half that of standard blacktop. Unlike blacktop, they never have to be sealed. The service life of a single coat job is often 8 - 10 years.

Would you like to have a gorgeous driveway? How about step-by-step photos and instructions that show you how I had my own tar and chip drive installed? If so, you might want my Instant Download Tar and Chip eBook.

Author's Notes:

June, 2000

Who Does This Work?

Tar and chip pavement surfaces are nothing new. In fact, there is a strong possibility that you have driven across hundreds of these roads. Many counties use this surface on secondary and rural roads. It is a cost efficient method of repaving and sealing an asphalt roadway.

Businesses and manufacturing plants often pave large parking areas with this material as well.

There is a good chance that a large paving contractor in your city or town does this work. If you are really fortunate, you may find a smaller company that does it as well.

If you have trouble locating a contractor in your town, there is one sure fire way to determine if this paving system is done in your area. If there are blacktop or asphalt driveways in your area, there is an asphalt plant. This is where blacktop is made. This is the same place where the tar and chip people must purchase the tar or asphalt cement. Find out where the plant is and call and speak to the general manager. Ask if he can put you in touch with the contractors who purchase the tar.

Build Stackable or Segmental Retaining Walls

Posted on September 30, 2003 by Tim Carter

If you stand back from this mortarless retaining wall, it actually appears like rough cut stone. The manufacturer uses different pigments in the concrete mix and different sized stones to create the illusion.

DEAR TIM: I am trying to create a level play area for my children. My rear yard slopes away from my house. Building a 4 foot high retaining wall will correct my problem. I have seen new masonry walls that you simply stack one piece on another. Are these suitable? Can a single mom like me realistically do the job? What do you suggest? T. O.

DEAR T.O.: Your project is ideal for the new segmental retaining walls. A 4 foot wall height is a no-brainer. These new wall systems, which employ mortarless concrete technology, can actually exceed 25 feet in height! If you don't own some sturdy work boots and gloves, get out to the store this week. You are going to need them.

Segmental retaining walls have been used in this country for over 20 years. The technology is really quite old, just the materials are new. The Great Wall of China employs some of the same methods that are being used in many of the walls you see being built today.

There are many advantages to using a wall system like this. Time consuming and costly concrete footers are rarely required. A simple gravel base is often the substitute. The wall has built in flexibility. The individual masonry units are manufactured under ideal conditions. Each high-strength concrete block is uniformly shaped.

The design possibilities are virtually endless. Serpentine walls are a breeze. Many of the wall systems offer a simulated split-faced rock appearance. Some are available in different colors. Using different colored block you can easily create a design or a color stripe. There are accessory pieces that allow you to build steps, pillars, masonry light posts, and more.

Need to build a retaining wall? Build a sturdy, durable wall with my Retaining Walls Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

The wall you need to construct is a simple gravity wall. It relies solely on its own weight to resist the sliding and overturning forces exerted by the fill behind the wall. Wall heights in excess of 4 to 5 feet tall often must be engineered. The segmental wall systems will work, however you often must incorporate a special geogrid fabric into the wall and the compacted backfill soil behind the wall. Segmental retaining walls that support roadways or parking areas also require engineering attention.

You can make both gentle and tight curves with mortarless segmental retaining wall systems.

Water must be allowed to drain freely behind and away from the walls. A perforated drain pipe along with gravel behind the wall helps improve drainage. Some of the wall systems actually use a light hollow block which is filled with free draining gravel. The gravel fill allows you to easily add weight to the gravity wall system. These particular blocks may be of interest to you should you wish to minimize visits to your chiropractor.

This is a closeup shot of the mortarless system. Excuse the pun, it rocks!

Each wall system comes with easy-to-follow instructions. Be sure to always start at the lowest end of the wall and work up slope. If your wall will abut an immovable object, such as a basement wall, try to start there as well. This will minimize cutting. Don't hesitate to ask for advice from the supplier. Ask if they have a three wheeled fork lift which will allow them to deliver the blocks and gravel to your rear yard. This will save you tons of labor and time, literally!

Column 128

Vinyl Fence

Posted on September 30, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I've had it with my wood fence. Painting it is a huge investment of time. Besides, the paint only seems to last three years or so. I have seen vinyl fencing. Do you feel that vinyl fencing is suitable? Not too long ago, I saw one that didn't hold up very well. Is there a way to identify quality vinyl fencing? R. Y.

DEAR R.Y.: That poor quality vinyl fence you saw could have been one of the first ones made. Then again, it may have been made six months ago. There is a wide range of quality in some of the vinyl fence products. Some are fantastic, some are so - so.

The vinyl fence industry got it's start in the early 1980's from PVC pipe manufacturers. The early fence products didn't fare well in the sunlight. The pipe manufacturers forgot that their pipe is usually buried in the ground or in walls. Destructive ultraviolet (UV) light caused pipe grade PVC fencing to break down readily.

However, several manufacturers responded to these early failures. They developed new technology that now allows them to manufacture vinyl in two layers that are chemically bonded to one another. The process is called coextrusion. This process produces a thin top layer that contains ingredients, such as titanium dioxide, which slows the breakdown of the vinyl. The thicker bottom layer contains ingredients which enable the vinyl to remain pliable and crack resistant for many years.

The amount of titanium dioxide in the top layer is critical. The higher the amount the better. This ingredient actually absorbs and reflects the energy of the UV rays. Vinyl with lower amounts of titanium dioxide simply succumb to the UV rays at a faster rate.

Vinyl fencing products are available in a wide range of styles. The industry first targeted the agricultural market. Virtually every manufacturer has a post and rail fence. The more progressive companies developed a wide range of other styles for the residential market. These styles include picket, privacy, wrought iron look, and cross buck. Several manufacturers offer different colors and extremely realistic wood grained texture. Within six months, a variegated multicolored fence will be available. The look is virtually indistinguishable from real wood.

Vinyl fencing is pricey. Often it can cost up to twice as much as a similar wood fence. However, there is absolutely no maintenance once it is installed. Maintenance costs for wood fencing can cost as much as $0.70 per foot per year. When you figure you have to paint your fence every 2 - 3 years, a wood fence system can actually cost far more than a vinyl system in a short amount of time.

Installation of vinyl fencing is critical. It requires tighter tolerances and accurate placement of posts. Many of the fencing sections come preassembled so the posts must be spaced equally. Warranties are also a good way to identify a quality fencing product. Take your time to compare one with another. Some warranties are not only lifetime, but they are also transferable as well. Vinyl fences with strong warranties are a good bet.

Cement Stucco – Synthetic Stucco / EIFS

Posted on September 30, 2003 by Tim Carter

cement stucco finish DEAR TIM: I am considering using stucco for an upcoming building project. The time tested cement stucco seems to hold up fine. However, I have recently seen a newer synthetic stucco product used in residential construction. Are there any potential problems with either stucco method? What are the pros and cons to each system? T. R.

DEAR T. R.: The newer synthetic stucco you are referring to is EIFS (Exterior Insulation and Finish). It has been is use in the USA for approximately 25 years. The cement stucco system, on the other hand, is thousands of years old. It is definitely no spring chicken!

The system is durable. The reason lies in the fact that you are basically covering your house with a layer of rock. The cement stucco consists of sand, a small quantity of lime, Portland cement, and water. It is simply a fine grained concrete that is attached to your house using a waterproof barrier paper, galvanized wire mesh, and metal flashings. Flashings are handy devices that channel water to the exterior of a wall.

Cement stucco has numerous advantages. It can achieve compressive strengths in excess of 3,000 pounds per square inch. Ladders, baseballs, and rocks will rarely dent it. If you have a talented plasterer, you have unlimited surface texture possibilities. Furthermore, if you use time tested installation methods, you can create a weather tight barrier to wind driven rain, snow, and ice. Uncoated cement stucco allows water vapor to freely pass through it.

As for its disadvantages, cement stucco is a rigid material. If the wood framing beneath it shrinks or if the house foundation moves, the cement stucco will very likely crack. If you choose to use it on a new home, frame your house using wood sheathing, get it under roof, and let the lumber dry for 45 - 60 days before proceeding with the stucco installation. Quality control of the material is determined at the jobsite. The people who mix the ingredients and install it on the wall control the destiny of your stucco finish.

EIFS is a synthetic material. It is virtually impervious to water and water vapor. One coat and two coat systems are available. The outer surface layer usually contains long lasting acrylic polymers that are solid colored and extremely flexible. A wide variety of colors and textures are available. EIFS systems are almost always applied over an unbroken layer of expanded polystyrene insulation board. Lower fuel bills are a certainty when used in conjunction with standard fiberglass batt wall insulation.

In some ways EIFS is too good. It has been determined that EIFS stucco can actually act as a barrier. Manufacturers and installers of many of the EIFS systems have abandoned the waterproof barrier paper and flashing practices practiced for years by the cement stucco masons. Water gets behind many EIFS systems and can't get out. Numerous houses across the USA are suffering from serious structural wood rot. Certain EIFS systems severly inhibit the evaporation of trapped water.

An EIFS system is available that makes use of a special water management system. This concept acknowledges that water will get behind synthetic stucco. The water management system collects the water and diverts it back to the exterior of the home before it can cause rot damage. The system incorporates a special barrier paper, old fashioned metal flashings, cement board in place of foam board and a combination of a Portland cement basecoat topped with a textured polymer stucco material.

If you choose to use cement stucco and want it colored, use a masonry penetrating stain. Avoid film forming paints that may peel at a later date. If you choose to use EIFS, be sure that a waterproof barrier paper is used between the system and the wood structure. Check to make sure that flashings are used as well. The flashings must be in place at the bottom of the stucco, around windows and doors and any other place where the synthetic stucco abuts something that is not stucco. The flashings will direct water from behind the EIFS back to the exterior of the wall. Remember, EIFS systems can trap moisture. You must install an EIFS stucco finish so that it can easily liberate water that will get behind the attractive finish.

Read about Chris' dilemma in my November 22, 2009 AsktheBuilder Newsletter.

Author's Notes:

February 2002

A recent Virginia Circuit Court judge has just ruled that Dryvit's Outsulation is defective. He concludes "even if the Outsulation were perfectly applied according to Dryvit's specifications, instructions, and details, the patented Outsulation 'system' consisting of the method of application and the component parts, is intrinsically defective and thus, is not merchantable." This information was provided to me by the webmaster of another website called eifsfacts.org.

April 1997

Since I authored this column, there has been a major storm brewing concerning EIFS. One major producer of EIFS materials, USG Corporation, stopped marketing "barrier" EIFS in April of 1996. Instead, they developed a "Water-Managed Exterior Finish System". Other EIFS companies have modified their products and installation techniques to deal with water infiltration problems, drainage, and wood rot.

Maryland Casualty Insurance is not insuring EIFS houses. There is a possibility that other major insurance companies will take notice and either limit coverage or cancel policies on existing EIFS houses.

"Barrier" EIFS systems have been outlawed in North Carolina and Georgia.

Class action lawsuits have been filed in state and Federal courts against EIFS manufacturers. These are currently in litigation. On July 2, 1997 a Tacoma, Washington jury found that a major EIFS manufacturer was not guilty in a case filed by two homeowners. The jury felt the homeowners deserved compensation but not from the EIFS manufacturer. They commented that the manufacturer had provided a good quality product and adequate installation instructions for the EIFS system materials. This case may have an impact on the class action suits.

If you have an EIFS house I suggest that you check for moisture related problems. If you are thinking of purchasing a house coated with an EIFS system, I suggest that you proceed with extreme caution. You may be purchasing a house that has latent defects. Hire a professional home inspector who can prove to you that he/she has experience in dealing with EIFS inspections. Also consider contacting your local building department. Ask these officials if there have been reports of EIFS problems in your county/city/town.

If you are beginning to construct a home that will include EIFS, I suggest you get the full set of installation instructions from the manufacturer. You then must make daily inspections to insure that every aspect of the installation is being performed according to the manufacturer's guidelines.

Dishwashers and Electronics

Posted on September 30, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: A new dishwasher is in my future. While out shopping, I noticed a big difference in price. Also, it appears that computers have now invaded these appliances. How can sophisticated electronics help clean dishes? Are there quiet dishwashers? Is it possible for the average housewife to install a dishwasher? A. D.

DEAR A. D.: Yes, the microchip has infiltrated dishwashers. The microprocessors are connected to sensing devices. The electronic devices attempt to minimize the amount of energy and water that is used to clean your dishes. At this point in time, not all manufacturers are charting the same course. Some manufacturers feel the computerized machines may not do the job.

The electronic devices in the machines are very sophisticated. Some contain an electric eye which looks at how much dirt is in the circulating water lines. The dishwasher extends the cleaning cycle until it thinks the dishes are clean. Other machines have sensors that can detect the amount of dishwashing soap. If it thinks you goofed by not adding a sufficient amount, it raises the temperature of the wash water. Other sensors detect the washer arm rotation. If it is blocked by a fallen glass or plate, it adjusts the washer arm rotation.

Some models spy on your household habits. They memorize how many times you open and close the dishwasher door before running the machine. If hours pass, then it knows there is a good chance dried food will be present when it is time to go to work. The machine automatically increases the wash time and water temperature.

Some of these machines are pricey. They can approach $800 in cost. Energy savings may not pay for the difference in price from an non-electronic model. You must do the mathematics yourself to determine what the payback will be. Remember, price can often be a gauge of overall quality. If a machine contains inferior parts and less of them, it can often sell for less.

Noise is a major concern with most consumers who purchase dishwashers. Most manufacturers are going to great lengths to reduce unwanted noise. They do this by reducing vibrations. This can be achieved by increasing the sound deadening insulation in the door and around the tub. Precision electric motors and pumps are used that produce fewer vibrations. The extensive use of rubber mounting grommets can help. They isolate a vibrating pump or motor from the main body of the dishwasher.

Do you know how to turn off the circuit breaker that powers your dishwasher? Great! Get your adjustable opened end wrench, several screwdrivers, and some pipe dope. Take 30 minutes and carefully read the installation manual.

Turn off the electric power that feeds the dishwasher. Now, turn off the water line that supplies the machine. Remove the lower front panel to access all of the necessary, electric, water, and drain connections. Once you have disconnected these items, open the door to the dishwasher. You should see two screws that attach the dishwasher to the countertop. Remove these and the dishwasher should slide out. Now, install the new dishwasher and do everything I just said but only backwards. Be sure to check with your local plumbing department first. Some states have highly restrictive plumbing codes that will not allow homeowner installations.

Aluminum Gutters – Seamless or Traditional

Posted on September 30, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: We are getting ready to build a new home. I've been disappointed with the performance of aluminum gutters in the past. Have there been any advancements? What can you tell me about seamless aluminum gutters? Some of my friends in the southeast and southwest don't use gutters. Is this a wise practice? I. T.

DEAR I. T.: As you might expect, there have been improvements in aluminum gutter systems in the past decade. These changes have affected both traditional and the so called seamless gutters. By the way, seamless gutters often have seams when they turn corners. Don't be fooled!

Your existing home probably has lighter weight aluminum gutters attached to the gutter or fascia board using long spikes and ferrules. Ferrules are metal tubes that the spikes pass through. They prevent the spikes from being driven too deep. This method of attachment is old technology. Normal expansion and contraction of the aluminum gutter is inhibited. It is not uncommon for the spikes to eventually loosen from repeated stress cycles.

You can purchase heavy gauge traditional aluminum gutters that attach to your roof system using a variety of hidden hangers. These hangers allow the gutters to expand and contract freely. The gutters are available in lengths up to 37 feet. This permits a seamless look on most houses. Two sizes are available: 5 inch and 6 inch. The 6 inch gutter is used when large volumes of rain water call for a greater capacity.

In need of gutters? Pick out the right ones with my Gutter & Downspout Installation / Repair Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

The thickness of the aluminum used to make the gutter is important. Long lasting, rigid aluminum gutters are often made using aluminum that measures .032 inch thick. Thinner material can sometimes bend or dent when a ladder is set against it.

If you choose to install a seamless style aluminum gutter, attempt to locate a design that uses a hidden attachment clip. Avoid the use of old fashioned spikes and ferrules. Also ask about the weight bearing capacity of the system. Some traditional systems can support up to 50 pounds per lineal foot.

Be sure to ask about the exterior painted finish of the gutter material. There can be big differences. The flat aluminum coil stock used to make seamless gutters does not always have as good a finish as the factory formed traditional gutters. Be sure to read the warranty, especially if you are looking for a long lasting gutter.

Your gutterless friends may want to rethink their situation. Some parts of the country have well drained soil that allows rain water to quickly dissipate. Other parts of the country get small amounts of rainfall. In either case, gutters can help control erosion, wood rot on the lower portions of houses, and work in conjunction with an underground irrigation setup.

Efflorescence growing in the mortar of a brick fireplace. PHOTO CREDIT: Michael Hannum

Houses that do not have gutters can sometimes suffer from erosion problems in heavy rains. In addition, the constant splashing of water against wood siding or stucco can lead to wood rot or efflorescence on stucco. Water collected in gutters can be directed to plants and other vegetation using inexpensive plastic drain pipe. Why use city water when Mother Nature does it for free!

Plaster Wall Restoration

Posted on September 29, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My daughter purchased an older home with plaster walls. There are numerous cracks in the walls and ceiling. The plaster appears to be sound. Should she skim over the existing plaster? Will the cracks reappear? Should she use the ready mix compounds that are sold in the large buckets? Is this a DIY'r project we can tackle? N. A.

DEAR N. A.: Ahhhhhhhh! Your daughter is blessed to have old plaster in relatively good shape. It is, in my opinion, the premier wall finish material. Working as a team, you and your daughter will be able to restore the walls. It will take a moderate amount of effort. Hopefully, one or both of you has good hand eye coordination.

Let's talk first about the cracks in the plaster. My guess is that in many locations wall cracks extend from the corners of doorways, windows or arches. Ceiling cracks are often random in nature. You should be able to repair many of these cracks successfully. Some, however, may continue to plague you. Here is why.

Some of the wall cracks may be stress release points. Houses tend to develop joints much like our elbows and knees. Seasonal changes in humidity can cause a house to flex at these joints as the framing lumber behind the walls and ceilings expands and contracts. The only defense when dealing with these cracks is to attempt to maintain as constant a level of humidity as possible within the house. This is often tough to accomplish.

There are several ways you can tackle the crack repair process. One method I have used with great success is to treat the cracks like new drywall seams. You tape over them using an adhesive fiberglass mesh tape or a paper tape. Successive layers of joint and topping compound disguise the repair. A final skim coat over the entire wall fills dimples, hairline cracks, and other imperfections.

Another method is to apply large sheets of thin fiberglass mesh over the entire wall or ceiling. The entire surface is then skim coated with joint compounds which hide the cracks and the mesh.

The ready mixed joint compounds may not be the best material to use. They are simply buckets of glue and filler. You can buy dry powdered setting type joint compounds that mix readily with water. These compounds contain a mixture of glue, filler, and gypsum. The presence of gypsum allows them to harden much like concrete. Same day wall repairs from start to finish are possible with these magical materials.

The ready mixed joint compounds do not always bond firmly to old plaster. In addition, they produce a somewhat softer final surface which may scratch or ding more easily. The setting type joint compounds can be mixed with water and acrylic bonding liquids. This permits them to readily stick to the old plaster.

If you want to avoid dust storms during the final stages of your project, why not buff the walls with a rubber float? These tools are used to grout ceramic tile. If you slightly dampen the dried joint compound and glide the float over the wall surface, you can create a smooth finish that rivals that of the original master who installed the plaster.

Aromatic Cedar Closets and Products

Posted on September 29, 2003 by Tim Carter

Aromatic Cedar | You can get long planks of aromatic cedar, blocks like this, or cedar flakeboard. CLICK or TAP HERE or the image to see it all.

Aromatic Cedar Closets - They're Dreamy

DEAR TIM: We're building a new house. I would like to reproduce an old fashioned cedar closet like the one in my parent's home. Can you just buy regular cedarwood or should I use those cedar flakeboard panels? Does the cedar wood really kill moths? Is there a way to restore the aroma in my parent's closet? Are there alternative products? C. E.

DEAR C. E.: Your question brings back memories of my mother's fragrant cedar chest. As a child, I would sneak into her room to lift the lid. The aromatic cedar aroma was intoxicating!

When Did Cedar Closets Become Popular and What Causes the Aroma?

Cedar closets became very popular at the turn of the century as closets became a more standard feature in residential construction. Prior to that, clothes storage was usually achieved in free-standing armoires. The cedar aroma is produced by the evaporation of the natural oils contained in the cedar lumber.

What Species of Cedar Creates the Pleasant Aroma?

The aromatic cedar that creates the intoxicating aroma is Eastern Red Cedar. This cedar species is found predominately in and about the southern Appalachian Mountains. Aromatic cedar flakeboard is a good alternative should you decide not to use the red cedar planking to match your parent's closet. The flakeboard will produce the same strong aromatic scent as the solid wood planks.

Do not buy western red cedar. It will not produce a strong fragrance that is necessary to protect your clothing.

Why Should I have Cedar Closets in my Home?

The aromatic cedar can protect the investment you have made in your fine clothing. Adult moths like to make nests in fabrics, especially woolen ones. The adult moths do not damage or eat the fabric. The damage is done by their youngin's. Adult moths will not reproduce in an area permeated by a strong cedar aroma.

CLICK or TAP HERE to get FREE QUOTES from local handymen who can transform a closet into a CEDAR CLOSET in hours.

Should Cedar Closets Have Special Doors?

Tightly sealed cedar closets or chests will maintain a strong cedar scent for many years. You can extract top performance from your new cedar closet by doing several simple things. Make sure that your builder installs an inexpensive exterior door to your closet. These doors have excellent weather stripping which will minimize air infiltration. Caulk or fill any gaps between the drywall and floor before you install the cedar lining.

Why Do Cedar Closets Lose Their Aroma?

Your parent's cedar closet has lost its strong aroma because of air infiltration or dirt buildup. The cedar's red cast has probably turned to brown.

What Can Be Done to Restore the Pleasant Cedar Smell?

Sand the surface of the cedar with fine sandpaper to restore the cedar aroma. This will open the wood pores allowing the natural cedar oils to once again evaporate. In addition, you can purchase natural cedar oil extract. This oil is applied to the sanded cedar. It readily soaks into the bare wood revitalizing the cedar. Never, ever varnish, shellac, or seal cedar! This will stop the evaporation process immediately.

Renew Cedar Closet Smell | CLICK or TAP HERE to get fantastic cedar oil that will renew the smell in your cedar closet or chest.

Can You Create the Cedar Aroma in Drawers?

Aromatic cedar products are also available if you want to create the fragrance within an existing closet or a chest of drawers. You can purchase small aromatic cedar balls or blocks of wood to use in place of mothballs. In addition, you can purchase small bags of cedar shavings that look much like teabags. These can be placed in and around clothes. Finally, for those of us who have smelly shoes, you can even purchase cedar shoe trees to absorb offensive odors.

Can You Purchase Other Cedar Accessories?

Yes, you can buy

CLICK or TAP HERE for a full listing of all the Eastern Red Cedar products you can have in your home in just days.

CLICK or TAP HERE to get FREE QUOTES from local handymen who can transform a closet into a CEDAR CLOSET in hours.

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Aromatic Cedar Closets - They're Dreamy

When Did Cedar Closets Become Popular and What Causes the Aroma?

What Species of Cedar Creates the Pleasant Aroma?

Why Should I have Cedar Closets in my Home?

Should Cedar Closets Have Special Doors?

Why Do Cedar Closets Lose Their Aroma?

What Can Be Done to Restore the Pleasant Cedar Smell?

Can You Create the Cedar Aroma in Drawers?

Can You Purchase Other Cedar Accessories?

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