Concrete Overlays

Posted on September 29, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My concrete driveway and sidewalk surfaces are crumbling. The concrete just below the surface appears to be in very good shape. Can a thin concrete overlay be installed over the sound concrete? What needs to be done? Do you think I should hire a professional to do this work? E. R.

DEAR E. R.: This is your day! Thin concrete overlays are possible. Many of the concrete bridges in our interstate highway system are being restored using this proven technology. What's more, if you have some friends, relatives, and neighbors with strong backs and weak minds, it will be a breeze.

Your best results will be achieved with a fully bonded overlay. This method involves placing a 1 to 2 inch thick layer of concrete which physically and chemically bonds to your existing concrete. Thinner layers ranging from 1/2 to 1 inch can be installed. They require extra attention during and after installation. Thin overlays tend to shrink more readily because of rapid moisture loss while drying. This can cause cracking and future delamination.

The amount of cement used in the concrete mixture and the size of the stones (aggregate) is critical to your success. You need to make sure that each cubic yard of concrete you mix has a minimum of 600 pounds of cement. The maximum diameter of any stone in your mixture should not exceed 1/3 the thickness of the overlay. This means that if you intend to pour a 1 inch overlay, no single stone should be larger than 5/16ths of an inch!

Want perfect concrete work? Find a pro by using my Concrete Work (Sidewalks, Driveways, Patios & Steps) Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

The concrete mixture itself contains a combination of stones, coarse builder's sand, cement, and water. If your overlay is very thin, say 1/2 inch, the stones will most likely be eliminated from your mixture.

Before mixing the first batch of material, you need to do several things. Chip away the existing loose material in several places to insure that the concrete below is, in fact, solid. Remove any grease and oil stains with soap and water and/or solvents. Completely rinse the surfaces to remove grease, dirt, dust, etc. Keeping the area to be repaired wet for 12 hours prior to applying the concrete will vastly improve your chances of success. This is especially true if you intend to do a thin overlay of 1 inch or less.

To fully bond the thin overlay to the old concrete, you need to apply a very thin layer of cement paint. Mix 1 part of cement to 1 part of fine sand. Add just enough water to make a rich, creamy mixture that resembles a high quality latex paint. Have one of your strong backed helpers apply this mixture in a 1/16th inch film just ahead of the concrete mixture. Be sure that there is no standing water in any of the repaired areas. This will dilute the bonding agent! It is vitally important that this paint does not dry before it is covered with the thin overlay.

Once the concrete has been installed, it is finished just like ordinary concrete. You can apply a broom finish or a coarse wood trowel finish for great traction. Apply a liquid curing compound immediately as you finish each section. In addition, cover the overlay with plastic to eliminate any water loss. Avoid doing this work on hot, sunny, or breezy days. Cool, overcast weather is the best for new concrete or concrete repair work!

CLICK HERE to read about the phone call with Gary and Linda. They hired a concrete contractor to install a new concrete drive two years ago. Unfortunately the sub-contractor - yes, the contractor hired someone else to do the job - did a very poor job and the surface of the concrete is spalling off.

Wind Blown Rain and Ice Dam Barriers

Posted on September 29, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: It is time to install a new roof on my house. My roof is subjected to strong wind blown summer rains as well as deep snow in the winter. This past summer leaks developed during an intense storm. Will felt underlayment prevent these leaks? Is there another way to prevent these leaks? Do you have any installation tips for a DIY'r roofer? M. A.

DEAR M. A.: Wind blown rain is a big problem for many homes in the United States. Violent thunderstorms can produce very strong winds that will drive rain up under many roofing materials. Hurricanes produce violent sustained winds that can create indoor waterfalls. Interior water leaks are frequently produced by ice dams. Felt paper will not stop these leaks entirely.

Just about every roof covering depends upon gravity to keep water from entering your home. Slate, clay tiles, metal tiles, asphalt shingles are installed in an overlapping fashion. As you proceed up a roof, each successive layer of roofing material overlaps the row below. As long as water flows down the roof, this system works well. Metal flashings around chimneys and skylights require gravity as well to stop water penetration into your home. However, wind and ice dams cause water to travel backwards up the roof and behind metal flashings.

Once water gets behind roofing materials, there are numerous places it can enter your house. The wood sheathing beneath the roofing materials has cracks and seams. Felt paper has numerous holes from the nails which hold the roofing materials. All of these places allow water to enter your home. New membrane roofing products can be installed which stop these troublesome leaks.

The membrane roofing materials consist of rubberized asphalt which is often covered by a high density polyethylene plastic sheet. The rubberized asphalt seals around nails which penetrate this membrane. These products should be installed in locations where water can easily work its way beneath shingles or other roofing materials. Often these locations can be found at the lower edge of roofs, valleys (where two different roof surfaces meet), rake edges (roof edge), chimney and skylight penetrations, low slope roofs, and areas where roof slopes change.

These roof membranes are sensitive to ultraviolet light. They must be covered by regular roofing materials. Certain ones are available for people who have roofs in high temperature areas such as the southwest. The membranes stick to the wood deck surface and are lapped up onto sidewalls, chimneys, skylights, etc. to produce a watertight installation. Metal flashings, siding, etc. cover this membrane to protect it from sunlight and abuse.

Prior to starting your roofing project, obtain and read the installation procedures for the material you are using. Be sure you have the proper tools and accessories which will allow you to safely accomplish the project. Pay attention to the nailing requirements of the roofing material. For example, asphalt shingles often require a minimum of 4 nails driven at specific locations on each shingle to prevent leaks.

If your roof requires metal flashings, make sure you use a material such as tin, galvanized steel, or copper. These are metals that can be soldered. Don't discount copper because of its cost. You may only spend an extra $100 - 150 for a material that will never rust and is very easy to solder. Not only that, copper flashings, copper coated shingles, granules and copper strips will prevent the unsightly roof algae that affects many roofs. Don't use aluminum flashing material in contact with brick or other masonry structures. The lime in the mortar will corrode the aluminum!

Painting Kitchen Cabinets

Posted on September 29, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I would like to have a fresh look in my kitchen. However, my scrooge husband has indicated that we can only spend $1,000. Do you think I can get superior performance from painting my existing cabinetry? If so, what type of paint will deliver top performance? Are there any pitfalls to avoid while attempting this job? What other things can I do to breathe new life into my dull kitchen? I am very handy and will do the work myself. B.E.

DEAR B. E.: Painting your existing cabinets is a wonderful alternative to purchasing new cabinetry. What's more, this will give us nearly $950 to spend on other goodies. I firmly believe that you will be delighted with the results.

You have three main options with respect to the final paint finish that you can apply to your cabinets. As you might imagine, all have their advantages and disadvantages. Your primary concern should be the hardness of the final finish. Kitchen cabinets require a hard finish that will resist scratches and chips.

painted bookcase green

The hardest paint that is available to most homeowners is an epoxy modified alkyd paint. These are most commonly found in aerosol spray cans. After these paints cure, they typically have a harder finish than you could obtain with an oil or water based paint that is brushed on. Spraying paint is an art. Sags and runs are possible if you are not careful. Areas adjacent to the cabinets must be meticulously protected from paint overspray. Fumes can be a problem as well.

Alkyd or oil based paints will produce exceptional high gloss finishes and rapid cure times. This is important if you need to get your kitchen up and running again. Many oil based paints will dry to a superior hardness within 48 hours. This allow you to cook and move about without fear of damaging the new finish. However, alkyd/oil paints often produce strong fumes while drying. They require the use of mineral spirits or thinner to clean your tools.

Acrylic water based paints offer acceptable hardness, low odor, and ease of clean up. However, acrylic paints tend not to be as glossy as oil based paints. In addition, it takes considerably longer for acrylic finishes to reach acceptable hardness levels. You may have to wait 5 - 7 days before the finish with withstand significant abuse. Furthermore, you must use an oil based primer over your previously painted or urethaned cabinetry. The oil primers tend to grip the old surface much better than water based primers.

painted kitchen cabinets

Wash the surfaces to be painted with a strong solution of soap and water. Don't be afraid to scrub. After the cabinets dry, remove all doors and empty the drawers. We will paint these in the basement or garage. Remove all hinges, knobs, and other hardware. Sand all surfaces that will receive new paint. Eliminate all sources of dust. Apply the primer with a small roller to speed application. Immediately brush the paint to give it a smoother finished look. Allow the primer to dry for one day. Apply the finish coat as soon as possible using the roller and brush method. Do not reassemble the cabinets until the paint finish has hardened.

The remainder of your cash can be spent on new countertops, a faucet, and possibly some affordable wallpaper. If you do some smart shopping, you will have money left over to buy that delightful sweater you saw in the mail order catalog.

Author's Note: If you want to save thousands of dollars, you should read my Painting Cabinetry eBook. It has step-by-step photos and instructions that show you how to paint cabinets. I guarantee that you will be satisfied.

Read Carolyn's email about painting cabinets and Tim's advise in the January 4, 2009 AsktheBuilder Newsletter.

Grout Removal and Redo

Posted on September 29, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: The grout in my tub and shower area is a mess. It is difficult to keep clean and has actually crumbled in places. Is it possible to regrout over the existing grout? Or, do I have to remove the ceramic tile and start over? What type of grout should I use? Is it possible to achieve professional results, assuming that I have above average remodeling skills? B. E.

DEAR B. E.: Well, I have good news and bad news ... The good news is that you don't have to remove the existing ceramic tile! The bad news is that you can't regrout over the top of the existing grout. The old grout must be removed by hand or by using a small electric grinder.

There are two hand methods you can use to remove old grout. The remainder of the grout may crumble when you use a carbide tipped scraper tool specifically designed for grout removal. If not, you may have to use a fine tipped screwdriver and a hammer to remove the grout.

The carbide tipped scrapers can be found at most stores that sell ceramic tile. They are very inexpensive. Be careful, as they can easily scratch the glazed tile surface. You apply firm, but gentle pressure, as you draw the scraper across the grout. It may take repeated strokes before you remove a significant portion of the grout. Move on when you expose the unglazed edges of the tile.

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Be sure to drape a cloth tarp in the bottom of the tub before starting this project. Loose pieces of grout can scratch the tub surface if you step or kneel on them. Remove the grout fragments on a regular basis to minimize scratch hazards.

If the carbide tipped tool does no good, you will have to chisel the old grout from between the tiles. This can be accomplished using a flat bladed screw driver or an old wooden chisel with a 1/4 inch blade. Tap the screwdriver or chisel lightly with a hammer. Once you have removed some grout, always chisel away from the grout which is still in place. If you chisel towards existing grout, there is a great chance that you will chip the sides of the tiles.

Once you have completed the job and regained your sanity, it is time to grout. I would suggest that you use a dry set grout with latex additives or a latex-Portland cement grout. These grouts mix with water. They offer superior bonding qualities. In addition, they tend to be less absorptive than standard Portland cement grouts.

Applying the grout is rather simple. You will need two important tools: a hard rubber grout float and a synthetic grout sponge with rounded edges. Two or three buckets of fresh water are also necessary.

Add water to the dry grout mixture, and stir until the grout resembles a creamy cake icing on a hot day. The grout should be firm, but not runny. Trowel the grout onto approximately 6 square feet of tile using the rubber float. Apply pressure to squeeze the grout into the grooves between the tiles. Remove excess grout by pulling the float across the tile at a 45 degree angle.

The sponge is used to remove grout from the face of the tile and to strike the grout joints. Squeeze as much water from the sponge as possible. Rub the sponge lightly in a circular manner across the grouted area. Rinse the sponge frequently. Once again, squeeze all of the water from the sponge. When the tile looks clean, turn the sponge on edge and glide it across the grout lines one at a time. Do this until the grout lines are smooth and uniform in appearance. Avoid using too much water. That is why your previous grout crumbled.

Carpet Pads, Cushions & Insulating Underlayments

Posted on September 29, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: It is time for new wall to wall carpeting in my home. The carpet will cover both concrete and wood floors. There seem to be so many different carpet pads. Which is the best to use? Is thicker padding better? What can be done to insulate the floors to maximize comfort and reduce noise? R. M.

DEAR R. M.: The abundance of carpet cushion choices can easily confuse most consumers. By the way, cushion is the politically correct term. Not only are there different material types, most of them are available in varying thicknesses. If you make a mistake, you will shorten the life of your carpet and potentially be uncomfortable.

There are three major types of carpet cushions that most homeowners recognize: fiber, sponge and foam rubber. There are different types and grades within each grouping. Thickness of cushion and weight in ounces per square yard are the yardsticks which allow you to differentiate one from another.

The type and amount of foot traffic in a room determines the type of cushion you should use. Heavy traffic areas, stairwells, and hallways require cushions that are no thicker than 3/8 inch. These cushions should also be dense and heavy. Do not use a thick, light weight cushion in these areas. It will allow the carpet backing to flex too much. This can cause the carpeting to fall apart.

If you want a soft, luxurious feel in a bedroom or other lightly traveled room, choose a 1/2 inch thick pad. To increase the life of the carpeting, choose a high density or weight cushion. Remember, the cushion is the foundation for the carpet. It just doesn't make sense to install a flimsy, inexpensive cushion beneath an expensive carpet.

Carpet cushions have wide ranging insulating or R values. They can range from as little as 0.2 R value to as much as 2.1 R. Sponge rubber pads, believe it or not, tend to have lower R values. Rubberized jute fiber and prime urethane foam cushions deliver high R values. For example, a flat rubber cushion that weighs 62 ounces per square yard has an R value of 0.21. You can purchase a 1/2 inch thick prime urethane cushion that will yield an R-value of 2.1!

To block the cold temperatures, which are conducted through your wood or concrete, you can use an underlayment material. These wood fiber boards are made from 100 percent recycled materials. A 1/2 inch thick panel will deliver an additional 1.2 R value. The boards are easy to install. You simply install a 1 and 1/2 inch wide by 1/2 inch thick border around all walls. This will provide an adequate surface to attach the carpet tackless strip which holds the carpeting in place. The insulating boards themselves can be either glued in place or allowed to float beneath the carpet cushion.

Noise reduction and added resiliency are added benefits that you will experience if you choose to install the recycled carpet underlayment material. This is especially important if the room will house a sound system or giant screen TV with surround sound speakers. Cold, hard floors will be a thing of the past if you spend some time choosing the correct carpet cushion and underlayment material.

Author's Notes :

December, 1998

Several days ago, I received a letter from the Carpet and Rug Institute. Their membership represents about 90% of the carpet manufacturers in the USA. They found this column on my website and wished to offer a few suggestions. Just so you know, the data in the column was provided by the Carpet Cushion Council.

The bottom line is that the carpet manufacturers seem to conflict what the cushion manufacturers say. The carpet manufacturers suggest that the you never use a pad that has a thickness greater than 7/16 inch for any carpet. Thin carpets such as Berbers and other short pile carpets should never have a pad thicker than 3/8 inch.

So, there you have it! Whatever you choose to do always make sure you follow the written carpet installation instructions. If you install a pad that is too thick, it may void any warranty.

Basement Remodeling – What Happens When?

Posted on September 29, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My children have overtaken our first floor with their toys. I would like to create a recreation room for them in our basement. The floor is concrete. How do I go about starting this project? Is there a wall material which will withstand abuse? Do you have any other suggestions? R.O.

DEAR R. O.: Been there, doing that ... My wife and I are in the same situation. Toys litter the first floor of our house. Kathy, my wife, has instructed me to start a recreation room project to minimize the debris field in our family room.

Finishing an unfinished space is really no different than building a house. The only difference is that the project is smaller in scope. If you plan to add or expand a bathroom or a wet bar as a part of this job, complete all of the plumbing below the concrete floor first. It is important to know wall locations for this work. Drain lines and plumbing vent lines must turn up in the center of certain walls that will surround your bathroom or wet bar.

Once the plumbing has been inspected, patch the concrete floor. Be sure the patch is smooth and in the same plane as the existing floor. Humps or depressions can be telegraphed through resilient flooring or some thinner carpets. If your basement is not waterproofed, you may wish to apply a brush-on cementitious waterproofing compound. Two thin coats applied to a clean, dampened masonry wall can often work wonders.

Wall construction is the next priority. Some people like to use furring strips on concrete block or concrete walls. I prefer to build a 2x4 wall that stands off the masonry wall by one half inch. Masonry walls are not always straight. This space allows you to create a smooth wall in most instances. Install all necessary wood blocking for shelves, wainscoting, crown or other specialty moldings, etc.

The mechanical systems now must be installed. The heating and cooling contractor and the plumber need to meet and coordinate what goes where. The heating contractor's ductwork is often large and cumbersome. The plumber has a little more flexibility with his piping. The electrician should not start until the plumber and heating contractor are complete. Electrical wires can be run just about anywhere. Don't forget to install plenty of telephone outlets for future computer modems. Cable TV and alarm wiring need to be installed at this time as well.

After the electrical work has passed inspection, the exterior walls should be insulated. Try to seal all holes that lead to other rooms or floors at the same time. These are conduits for noise. Don't rely entirely on the ceiling material for sound control. It can be a mistake.

I suggest that you drywall the walls. Then install, using nails only, a decorative paneling wainscoting. Extend the paneling up the wall 32 inches. It will take tons of abuse from dump truck crashes, hockey pucks, and runaway baby carriages. Dings and scratches can be repaired with shoe polish. Should you grow tired of the wainscoting, it can be removed without causing significant damage to the drywall substrate. Consider a suspended acoustical tile ceiling. Drywall ceilings can often make it tough to access utilities that may service other portions of your house.

Your floor covering choice can make or break the room. Think long and hard about wall to wall carpeting or hardwood floors in rooms that are subject to moisture. Vinyl tiles may offer the most flexibility. Using different colors and styles you can create miniature athletic fields, game boards, or other interesting features on the floor. Area rugs or carpet remnants that have bound edges can add warmth and padding in critical areas.

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Acoustical Ceiling Tiles

Posted on September 29, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I am thinking about using acoustical ceiling tile for an upcoming project. How effective are they at controlling sound? What happens if they become discolored? Can they be washed or painted at a later date? Do you think I might be able to install a suspended ceiling if I enlist the help of my husband? A. N.

DEAR A. N.: As much as I hate to say it, you might do better doing the job yourself. If your husband has a bad attitude going into the job, the results may be less than satisfactory. I have installed many an acoustical ceiling by myself. I say "Go for it!"

If you are on the fence about using this material because of the ceilings you see at the big box merchandise stores and other commercial outlets, you must visit a ceiling tile showroom. Manufacturers have made vast improvements in the style and selection of acoustical tiles. Years ago you had maybe 5 choices. Today there a minimum of 30 different textures and styles available. What's more, the grid systems are available in a multitude of finishes. Most people are unaware that the grid work which supports the tiles is available in a wood grain, polished brass, chrome, and black finish. Most of us see the standard white gridwork.

The sound deadening properties of the tiles depends upon the thickness, density, and volume of the individual panels. Most acoustical ceiling panels are made from spun mineral wool fiber which is bound together with starch. The starch is often mixed with pigmented clay paints. Generally peaking, the greater amount of fibers in the panel the more sound it can absorb.

You have undoubtedly noticed the holes, crevices, and fissures in these tiles. This is what helps control the sound. Sound travels through air and vibrates things. As the air hits the acoustical tiles, it enters the holes and tiny cracks. There it begins to vibrate the acoustical panel. Some acoustical tiles can offer up to an 80 percent noise reduction coefficient. The ones you and I see in retail stores are in the 50 - 60 percent range.

The tiles themselves actually come in three profiles. Your grocery store probably has the simple square edge tiles. Many styles are available with a notched edge which hides the metal grid system to a degree. To further enhance this effect, you can purchase tiles that have a beveled notched edge. These tiles are extremely attractive.

If you do not like the traditional metal grid systems you can purchase interlocking tiles that staple to wood furring strips. The strips are commonly spaced at 12 inch intervals. There is a wide variety of styles and patterns available with these tiles as well.

When purchasing acoustical ceiling tiles you must be careful! Some tiles have no acoustical properties whatsoever. These tiles look very similar in style and pattern to the acoustical tiles. Be sure to check the labeling and product literature to make sure the ones you select will absorb sound.

Acoustical ceiling tiles can sometimes be cleaned. I would first attempt it with a chemical sponge instead of water. Certain new tiles have a washable finish that can be cleaned with a damp sponge. Older tiles are often impossible to clean. They may have to be painted. To retain the sound deadening properties, you must use a thin paint. The holes and fissures must not become clogged with paint. Figure on applying two thin coats to achieve a uniform color. One thick coat of paint may ruin the sound deadening qualities of the tiles.

Lots – Important Features

Posted on September 29, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My husband and I are about to be transferred. We may be building a new home or buying an existing home. In either case, I feel that the lot upon which the house is built is extremely important. What things should we look for in a lot? What are some hidden defects that an unsuspecting homeowner might overlook? M.S. Hamilton, Ohio

DEAR M.S.: You have exposed an area of home ownership that many home buyers pay far too little attention to. The land upon which a house sits can either be an asset or a liability. Without careful study, you may end up with the "dog" of the subdivision instead of the pick of the litter.

Drainage is an extremely important consideration. Observe the landscape surrounding the lot. In periods of heavy rain, will runoff from higher ground overwhelm and flood portions of your lot or house? Is the lot adjacent to or traversed by a creek or storm sewer pipe which can overflow during flash floods? Is the lot in a flood plain of any type? You can check with your local planning department or the US Army Corps of Engineers for this type of information. Talk with adjacent property owners if possible. Ask them if there have been any instances of high water or excessive runoff in periods of extended rainfall.

A large majority of houses are built on soil instead of solid rock. Soil characteristics vary from region to region. In fact, they can vary drastically within a 5 acre tract! You need to investigate if the soil is stable, especially if the lot you are contemplating is located on a hillside. Some soils do not absorb water very well. This could be a huge problem if your lot requires you to use a septic system. A tremendous amount of information can be obtained from soil maps. These can often be obtained from county authorities.

Zoning laws are very important. These laws control what can be built where. You need to determine if you can build exactly what you want. You should be aware how close a neighbor can build to your lot line. If you are buying an existing home, will the current zoning allow you to add a room addition if necessary? Check to see if the zoning permits you to park your boat or motor home outside. Some zoning codes prohibit this. Pay attention to the compass orientation of the lot. Perhaps you want to incorporate solar heating into your new home. If so and if you live in the Northern Hemisphere, the side of your house with the most glass should face south. Perhaps you want the morning sun to flood your breakfast nook. If so, you better make sure that the lot will allow this to occur.

Certain areas of the nation are subject to prevailing winds. These winds can blow dust or foul odors into your house if you build or buy in the wrong location. Don't build or buy downwind from a large landfill or other potential source of foul odors. The local National Weather Service office can often provide you with prevailing wind information.

Last but not least, I would insist upon a site survey by a registered surveyor. You should absolutely know what you are or are not buying. An accurate survey will enable you to determine if there is an encroachment problem with your lot or an adjacent lot. If you proceed with a survey, always protect and preserve the corner pins. They may come in handy when you decide to build a fence or settle some other dispute in the future.

If you are like me you have dreamed of owning a home away from home. Imagine when the weekend comes, hanging out in a hammock at your own lakefront cottage, boating, antiquing in a charming little town, or whiling away an afternoon on your ocean-view porch. If you have imagined these things you need Better Homes and Garden's Second Home: Find Your Place in the Fun.

This inspiring volume will help you turn your second-home fantasy into the real thing. This book will take you through tours of gorgeous homes to see how other people have created their own great escapes. There are expert tips on everything from real estate shopping to building, remodeling, and decorating. There are hundreds of spectacular color photographs of beautiful homes and great locations. As for me, I'll keep dreaming ..... until those lottery numbers come through or some forgotten relative leaves me an unexpected inheritance, the book will have to suffice.

Adding a Telephone Outlet

Posted on September 29, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I want to hook up my computer to a separate telephone line. The local telephone company will bring the cable into my house but I intend to complete the project. What do I need to do so that I can have my existing phone line and the new one active at the same location? Do I have to run a new cable inside my house? K.H. Rapid City, SD

DEAR K.H.: You have selected a project that just about every homeowner can tackle successfully. Telecommunications wiring is quite simple to master. If you are lucky, you will not need to run a new cable. However, for the best signal, a new cable may have to be installed. It is possible that you will have the modem up and running in just an hour.

Telephones, modems, answering machines, etc. work using just two wires. Remove your existing telephone outlet from the wall. You probably will see a single cable that contain four thin wires. If the wiring is fairly modern, you should see separate red, green, yellow, and black wires. Only two of those wires power your existing phone. Usually, the red and green wires do the work. The yellow and black wires are simply spares. The red, green, yellow, and black wires are older technology.

To obtain the absolute best voice and data system you should purchase an Underwriters Laboratory (UL) approved 22 or 24 gauge, color band-striped, twisted pair cable. This cable often contains 4 twisted pairs of wire that have blue-white, orange-white, green-white, and brown white colorations. The twisting of the wires around one another helps to eliminate interference from other wires within the cable.

If there are only two wires feeding your outlet, you will have to run a new wire to your modem location. Be sure to use modern 22 gauge UL approved wire that contains the twisted pair conductors mentioned above.

Your modem will require you to use a modern modular connection cable. This is the cable that has the funny shaped square plug at each end. The cable connects to a wall outlet which is made for these plugs. The outlets are often referred to as RJ-11 outlets. Most of these outlets have short pigtail wires that attach to screws on the back of the outlet. These pigtail wires are also red, green, yellow, and black. Unless you are color blind, you should see why this is going to be easy.

Look at your existing outlet. If the yellow and black wires are connected to the back of the outlet, temporarily remove them. Test to see if your existing phone still works. If you get a dial tone, can dial out and the spare yellow and black wires are not broken somewhere, we will be finished in no time.

Go to where the existing phone line enters your house. Here you will find the other end of the cable. You should see that the red and green wires attach to the two wires that come in from the street.

The telephone company will undoubtedly provide you with a new connection device for the new phone line. Instruct them to install it as close as possible to your existing telephone connection device. If you have traced the wires correctly, the yellow and black wires in your existing wire will become the "red and green" wires for your new modem line. Get the picture? You simply attach the existing yellow and black wires to the new incoming telephone wire. Back at your existing outlet, these two wires should produce a dial tone.

To finish the job, you need to use a handy dual outlet. You can purchase telephone outlets that have two modular connection points on one outlet plate. If you look at the back of the outlet, you will see two sets of red and green pigtail wires. Attach the red and green wire to the corresponding red and green pigtail. Connect the yellow and black wire to the other red and green pigtails. If all the wires are working, you should get a dial tone from each outlet. However, they will be two different phone numbers. Label the front of the outlet as to which outlet accesses which phone number.

Stainless Steel Sinks – Great Choice!

Posted on September 29, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I need to make a decision concerning the sink for my new kitchen. I am leaning heavily towards stainless steel. What are the pros and cons of stainless steel sinks? Some sinks seem thin and low quality. Why? Can you keep these sinks looking brilliant for long periods of time? R. E.

DEAR R.E.: Ahhhhh .... there is something about that cool, silver, metal that catches my eye as well. In fact, the combination of an undermount stainless steel sink with a solid surface or natural stone countertop can really become the focal point of a kitchen. Traditional drop in sinks also can add a dramatic finishing touch to your new kitchen space.

Stainless steel was not originally developed for the kitchen industry. Just after the turn of the century Harry Brearley, an English metal scientist, was trying to solve wear problems in gun barrels. He blended chromium with regular steel in varying amounts. One day, he noticed that the scrap from these experiments didn't rust when exposed to rain. It didn't take long for steel companies to figure out where this new material should really be used!

The stainless steel found in residential kitchen sinks is not all the same. It contains different percentages of steel, chromium, and nickel. Usually the stainless steel alloy in your kitchen sink contains 18 percent chromium and 8 - 10 percent nickel. Other ingredients are sometimes added in small amounts as well. The presence of chromium allows the sink to maintain its shiny appearance. Nickel softens the steel so that it can be shaped more easily.

Just as regular steel rusts, so does stainless steel. Stainless steel rust, though, is an invisible layer which can actually make the sink more corrosion resistant. However, stainless steel sinks can be stained. Although stainless steel is a highly corrosion resistant metal, it is not immune to damage from ordinary household chemicals. Chlorine bleach, cleaners that contain chlorine bleach, muriatic acid used to clean ceramic tile, solvents found in construction adhesives and other building supplies can and will damage stainless steel.

Residential stainless steel sinks come in a wide range of designs, shapes, bowl configurations, and thicknesses. Thickness is often referred to as gauge. The gauge thickness may range from 18 to 23 gauge. This thickness difference can be dramatic. An 18 gauge steel is almost twice as thick as 23 gauge steel. The thin sinks that oilcan or flex are most likely 23 gauge. The extra money spent on the 18 gauge sinks is well worth it, in my opinion.

You can maintain and preserve the brilliant factory appearance of stainless steel. You need to minimize the use of harsh abrasive cleaners. These roughen the surface of the stainless steel. If you scrub across the grain of the factory applied finish you can harm the finish. The smoother you keep the steel, the tougher the invisible rust will become.

If you use chlorine bleach as a sanitizer, be sure to thoroughly rinse the sink after its use. Rinse completely your washrag, cleaning pads, and any other object that might rest on the sink. Always rinse all detergents as well. Some liquid or powdered soaps contain chemicals which will stain and corrode stainless steel. Try not to use rubber mats in the sink. Mats protect the sink bottom, however, they also prevent the complete rinsing of harmful chemicals. For ultimate protection, dry the sink completely after it has been rinsed.

Visit plumbing supply houses that carry a full line of stainless steel products. Look for sinks that have handy ribbed sideboards, custom fitting cutting boards, and sinks that contain suspended stainless steel grids. The grids allow you to clean heavy objects without scratching the bottom of your beautiful new sink.

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