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Glossary






Poured Concrete Walls vs. Concrete Block

By Tim Carter
©1993-2008 Tim Carter
Summary: Concrete block was used to build thousands of basement foundation walls in Cincinnati and other parts of the nation in the 1950's building boom. Many of the builders and block layers failed to realize that block mortar typically only has 1/3 the strength in tension as concrete. Those block walls have a long horizontal crack in the bed joint about four feet from the floor. But you can build block walls that withstand the test of time.

DEAR TIM: I am getting ready to construct a new home with a full basement. I am convinced that poured concrete walls are stronger than concrete block walls. However, a friend of mine has told me that there is no difference. My contractor has indicated that there are many factors that control overall strength in each type of wall. Can you shed any light on the subject? J. D.

DEAR J. D.: First of all, I can tell you that your contractor is quite right in his statement. There are many variables which control overall strength of masonry or poured concrete basement foundation walls. Design strength of the concrete, concrete blocks, and mortar are very important. The thickness of the wall with regard to its height is also extremely important.

For the most part, each type of wall has two categories, reinforced and non-reinforced. A reinforced wall, either poured concrete or concrete block, always contains some form of reinforcing steel. The presence of reinforcing steel dramatically increases the overall strength characteristics of masonry or concrete.

However, let's compare two 8 inch thick walls. One will be poured concrete, while the other one will be standard 8 inch hollow core block. There are two forces which act primarily upon foundation walls. The one force is a downward force (gravity load) created by the load placed upon the wall. The other force is a sideways or lateral force caused by the backfill or earth which is placed against the wall.

The strength of concrete is often measured in pounds per square inch. This is a measure of the weight that it will support before fracturing. You can apply these same standards to concrete blocks and mortar. Let's assume that each of the test walls have the same strength. The strength of each wall is directly proportional to its cross sectional area. In our example, a standard concrete block wall may only be half as strong as the poured concrete wall when a gravity load is applied to it. This is due to the hollow voids within the wall.

When you apply a lateral load to these two walls, you will achieve similar results. The poured concrete wall has more mass or interlocking cement paste crystals to resist the cracking force. The hollow block wall is depending solely on the strength of the thin mortar bed between each concrete block.

The addition of reinforcing steel to either wall system complicates the issue. For example, you can make a concrete block wall stronger than a poured concrete wall, by simply adding some reinforcing steel and additional mortar to the block wall. The trick is to insert vertical steel rods from top to bottom in the hollow cores and fill those hollow cores to the top with mortar. The addition of thin wire truss reinforcing steel in between the layers of block will add even more strength. This block wall would be far stronger than a similar non-reinforced concrete wall.

Your best bet, in my opinion, is to install a steel reinforced poured concrete wall. Have your foundation contractor install two 5/8 inch horizontal reinforcing bars about 16 inches from the bottom and top of the wall. These bars will minimize cracking if your soil beneath the footer rises or falls.

Consider installing singular vertical bars approximately two inches away from the inside face of the foundation wall every two feet on center. These bars will help withstand the bending force caused by the backfill dirt.

Remember, you only get one chance to install reinforcing steel. Spend the extra money and your foundation will not let you down.

If you want to learn lots about how concrete should be installed, you must buy a copy of a neat paperback book published by the Portland Cement Association. It is titled Design and Control of Concrete Mixtures. This book is a little technical, but it has many very important facts and guidelines that will help you order and place concrete under all sorts of site and weather conditions.

The Portland Cement Association has another book called The Homeowners Guide to Working With Concrete, Brick and Stone. This swell book contains some great photos, illustrations and numerous tables. It educates you about how to order and work with concrete. The book also shows you how to install brick and stone. It is a must have! To buy it now, just click it.

 






Comments

Marty
26 Nov 2007, 11:04
I have a block wall basement. I have cracks that the builder claims were there when they backfilled. I have been in my house for almost 1 1/2 years. I don't know if the cracks were there to begin with or not. However, outside of anchors, how can I reinforce my wall? Would you recommend the steel posts that attach to the floor joists? I really don't think my wall is going to move but I would rather play it safe.
Thanks.
ATB
26 Nov 2007, 11:24
Marty,
Had you used my Walk Through Checklist, you *would* have known if those cracks were your responsibility or not. Oh well............

There are several repair methods. I feel it is best for you to contact a licensed structural engineer to get a solution. This person will produce a written plan that will be the road map to a long-lasting repair.
Bruce Bruni
02 Dec 2007, 13:20
I have hired a contactor (Bob) to close in a 16 foot garage door with a wall that will contain an entry door and window. Bob used two 16 foot pressure treated 2x4 as the wall’s base plate on top of the concrete floor, with an adhesive on the bottom to seal out water. The first rain allowed water to enter under the wood and into the garage. His solution was to coat the wood with a tar like substance to keep the water out. I am concerned that at some point the tar will dry out, crack and I will experience further water entry. The wall is not yet finished and is on hold until we can determine a course of action to rectify the situation to my satisfaction.

I have recommend removing the wall and lay a course of solid concrete block along the floor of the garage door opening, with hydraulic cement as mortar and then build the wall on top of the block. To match the front door of the house, the bottom of the new entry door has to be 16 inches from the ground, offering the ability to lay a second course of block if necessary, depending on the thickness of the block. Bob is reluctant to do that, stating that the block will shift and crack and leaking will occur and still requires tarring to seal out water and that what he has built will be more durable and waterproofed now that it is covered with tar.

The only other solution suggested by Bob is to dig down 4 feet and build a concrete wall from there. That is an expensive proposition and I think that there has to be a more economical option. What is your take on this and do you offer a better solution that is reasonable priced. I do intend to divert excessive water away from the area but want to be sure the wall will not leak in the future.

Thank you in advance for your recommendations.

Bruce
ATB
02 Dec 2007, 15:50
No no no no...... You just need a flashing under the wall. It is a very simple solution...... It will need to be fabricated from copper with turned-up edges on the back and sides and then have a turned-down edge along the exposed face of the wall.
Terry
15 Dec 2007, 15:50
How long should a poured basement foundation cure before adding the walls and how long should a poured wall basement cure before a modular home is places on the walls and foundation. If this was in the winter and it was cold and rainy.
AsktheBuilder
15 Dec 2007, 15:56
Terry,
There are so many variables, it is impossible to give you a crisp answer. But suffice it to say that within a few days with temperatures above 40F you should be in the clear. Read all of my columns about Cold Weather and Concrete to get a good idea of how much you should or should not worry.
Justin
16 Dec 2007, 18:12
ATB,

I will be constructing a new home in the fall of 2008. The home will consist of a full basement. I am researching basement wall types. I have read your comments on poured walls and block walls, but I am interested in your opinion on precast Superior walls. I would also like your opinion on which of the three wall options would be the most cost efficient.

Thanks
AsktheBuilder
16 Dec 2007, 19:03
Justin,
I have a few past columns about the precast foundation walls. You should read them. I can't comment on pricing as there are far too many variables that are market-specific.
ashish mehto
07 Jan 2008, 13:12
Which one is better-concrete block or red brick for construction of residential house?
AsktheBuilder
07 Jan 2008, 16:41
Ashish,
Not enough data........ There are maybe 5-10 variables!

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