Acrylic and Fiberglass Tubs And Showers

By Tim Carter
©1993-2009 Tim Carter

Summary: Fiberglass shower enclosures and acrylic bathtubs compete well against cast iron fixtures. Read about the care and repair of these units.

DEAR TIM: My husband and I are planning a bathroom remodel. We can't agree on which type of tub / shower stall to install. My husband says there is no substitute for cast iron. Because of the wide variety of shapes and sizes, the fiberglass and acrylic products appeal to me. My husband says these units won't stand the test of time and scratch easily. I mentioned that cast iron products can chip. Without your help, we may be headed for divorce court! A. G.

DEAR A. G.: I hope both of you have good attorneys. I think you might need them as both of you have raised some valid points. I'm very confident that there is a product or two available that will satisfy both of your desires.

Your husband's comments concerning cast iron are very accurate. Cast iron plumbing fixtures are extremely durable. Cast iron will not flex. The thick enamel coating is actually fused to the cast iron in high temperature ovens where the temperatures exceed 1,700 F. Through this process, the enamel achieves a hardness very near that of ordinary glass. However, enamel can be scratched and it does chip. If you don't believe me, come and look at my kitchen sink.

As you have already discovered, there are many manufacturers, styles, and materials used in fiberglass type tub and shower stall units. While the finish on these units is not as hard as enameled cast iron, they can easily retain their glossy appearance with a little care and maintenance. The simple rule is to use the same care and cleaning products that you might use when you wash your new car.

There are three primary types of "plastic" tub and shower units: gel-coated fiberglass, acrylic reinforced with fiberglass, and acrylic backed with a structural composite. Side by side, these products look very similar, however there are important differences.

The gel-coat products, when constructed with high quality ingredients, can be very hard and durable. The manufacturing process is critical, as the liquid gel-coat must be applied evenly on the molds at the correct temperature. Gel-coated products if damaged or scratched can be repaired with great success. Repairs performed correctly are permanent and virtually invisible.

Acrylic units are usually constructed using large sheets of solid colored acrylic plastic. These sheets are heated so that they soften. The softened sheets are then stretched over a mold to achieve the desired shape of the shower or tub unit. This stretching process, however, sometimes causes the acrylic to be very thin as it stretches around corners. Those units with the highest percent of acrylic tend to offer higher performance levels. Repairs to these units are not always successful.

Should you and you husband eventually agree on using a "plastic" unit, be sure to carefully follow the installation instructions. Many homeowners in the past were dissatisfied with the fact that the floors of these units flexed like oil cans. Some of the acrylic units backed with composites have addressed this problem. The other units often need to be set in wet plaster or mortar to provide a solid base. Be sure that you or your contractor carefully follows the installation instructions.

The care of either cast iron units or the alternatives is important. Never use cleansers that contain abrasives, as these can scratch both cast iron and plastic fixtures. If you simply make a practice of cleaning the tub or shower area every two weeks, you will avoid the heavy soap buildup that often necessitates heavy scrubbing. Virtually every manufacturer has a recommended cleaner that they strongly suggest you use. Follow these instructions and you will have a beautiful tub and shower area for many years.

Finally, if you do select one of the "plastic" units, you can keep it looking new with a little known trick. Once a month, take just fifteen minutes and apply a high quality spray automotive wax to the wall surfaces only. Never apply wax to the floor of the unit. Buff this wax out and it will be as shiny as new!


 


Comments:

nancy
06 Mar 2008, 07:59
Need to change my shower stall in summer cottage. Unfortunately, have been told by 2 plumbers that the size is illegal, (28 x 30, and that I cannot replace because that size is no longer made. I was quoted by one, just under $10,000 dollars to bring to code, involving going into next room, (bedroom) and doing all types of remodeling!! Seems absurd! I bought cottage with the shower enclosure in 2002, and never realized there would be an issue with shower stall size! Any ideas?? I am crazed. Thanks.
AsktheBuilder
09 Mar 2008, 10:54
Nancy,
You are at a fork in the road. Many people have been here before you. You have to decide which road to take. The one that involves an inspection of the work or the one that does not. Be aware that proceeding down the No Inspection road is not without risk.

And to make it perfectly clear, I am not tipping my hand which you should do. That is up to you.
Elaine Duggan
15 Apr 2008, 09:53
HELP! We had a wallpaper person put a ladder in our 1985 "mauve" fiberglass air jet tub (may be a jacuzzi brand, not sure of the maker). It is totally scratched. Can this be buffed out? We live in Massachusetts. Hope you can help. Thanks in advance!
Debra
30 Apr 2008, 18:51
I have a fiberglass tub and wall unit which is one piece. It has molded ledges on it. My father is very sick and is going to have to come and live with me. I need to know how to attach grab bars for him in the shower. The unit itself sits about one inch from the wall. It is in a double wide home and as you know, this unit was put in first and the walls built around it. It cannot be pulled to put any braces behind it to attach grab bars. Will the grab bars with suction cups work?
Ed
12 May 2008, 13:46
We have to replace the water valve assy for a fiberglass, shower tub. The shower/tub is in four sections and looking into the tub, I think I can remove the end panel and have access to the valve. However I am not sure how it is fastened to the studs and tub and back panel. Can you enlighten me?

Thanks, Ed
Wyvonne Page
29 Jun 2008, 15:20
Hi Tim, I am planning a do-it-myself shower stall renovation. I have scraped the shower pan and washed it with TSP and sanded it with steel wool. My next step is to paint it. However, I don't know what type of paint to buy because I don't know what it's made of. I'm not sure if its cast iron, acrylic or fabriglass or any other material. My house is 40 years old, it's a 4 level split, and I live in Columbus, Ohio. if this helps at all.
brenda burks
16 Jul 2008, 13:12
We need to attach a safety strap to our fiberglass shower in our motorhome to bathe our dog and wondered if you knew a product (glue) or a means to do so.

Thank you so much.
Jason
16 Jul 2008, 16:39
Hi, Tim,

I am planning to install a Sterling shower wall set and pan. It is made of Vikrell and attaches directly to the wall studs. My question is - what is the best wall material to use above the top of the shower walls? I don't plan on using any kind of tile, just to paint the walls above the shower enclosure.
mary ann
20 Jul 2008, 14:14
I have a fiberglass tub and shower, installed in 2002 in a new house. do not know the make the bottom of tub is rough to avoid slipping. My question is I have been using scrubbing bubbles but I have a brown ring around the edges of tub bottom. What can I use to clear up this problem?zuypw
Raine
26 Jul 2008, 19:57
I recent purchased a home. The Master bath has a shower and tub but the wall and shower/tub are fiberglass. Can you tile over fiberglass in case I wanted to rid the stark white tile? if not, how can I change the color?

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