Water Heater Venting
Summary: Hot water heaters and other fuel venting appliances must have vents sized according to code. Chimney venting may not be the right way to vent these appliances. Building inspectors can check your masonry chimney to make sure that none of the fuel exhaust will spill back into your home.
DEAR TIM: I recently had my heating system replaced with a high efficiency system. The new furnace vents directly through the wall to the exterior. My hot water heater is now the only thing venting into the masonry chimney. I am concerned about exhaust gas damage that might be occurring inside my chimney. Do you think it is necessary to have a chimney liner installed? Robert K., Norwich, CT
DEAR ROBERT: Venting of any fuel burning appliance is serious business. The vent for your recently orphaned water heater may not have been checked by the furnace installer. Many building codes mandate that once modified or changed, all fuel burning appliance vents must be sized according to code. I suggest that you schedule an appointment as soon as possible with your local building inspector. This public servant should help you determine if the marriage of your hot water heater and your chimney meets code.
Herein lies the problem. Your chimney's existing flue liner may be oversized for the orphaned hot water heater. This can, in some instances, create condensation problems inside of masonry chimneys. Water vapor is a byproduct of the combustion of natural gas. If the inside of the chimney cools down too much or there is too much cold air inside the chimney, the water vapor can condense and saturate the masonry inside the chimney before it can escape into the atmosphere. Sometimes the condensed water contains acids that can chemically attack poor quality mortars.
Before you installed your new furnace, your old low efficiency furnace cycled on and off frequently. This process kept the inside of the chimney warm. That heat source has been removed. Although the water heater does contribute heat to the chimney during its off cycle, it may not be enough to prime the vent so to speak.Currently, there are many organizations that produce building codes. For many years, the American Gas Association (www.aga.org) and the National Fire Protection Association, Inc. (www.nfpa.org) have authored the National Fuel Gas Code. This code as well as other uniform building codes contain tables and charts that people use to properly size and install chimneys for fuel burning appliances. Research is currently being conducted by the Gas Research Institute that may create changes used in sizing masonry chimneys. In other words, code refinements are forthcoming with regards to venting modern fuel burning appliances.
You can do a quick check of your chimney to see if it meets an old rule of thumb and some of the current codes. Measure the diameter of the exhaust pipe leaving your hot water heater. If it is a 3 inch diameter pipe, the inside cross sectional area of the chimney flue liner should not exceed 49 square inches. If the exhaust pipe is 4 inches in diameter, the flue liner cross sectional area should not be larger than 88 square inches.
If you find that your chimney does not meet code or it is too large, you can reduce the size of a chimney lining. There are approved corrugated metal pipes that you can snake down the chimney and connect to the exhaust pipe of your heater. Some chimney companies can reduce the size of the chimney by pumping a cement slurry around a giant inflatable bladder. Low moisture content cement and vermiculite mortars can also be used to create a new inner lining. If you decide to reline your chimney, by all means make sure you do it under the guidance of your local building department officials.
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Comments:
David McArthur 25 Nov 2007, 15:36
Hello,
recently, I forgot to pay my gas bill, so the gas company turned off my service. I paid the reconnect fee, and a technician came out and turned the gas back on. However he refused to turn the gas on to the water heater, because he stated that it was not up to code. My water heater vents through the wall versus the roof. Is that correct? I live in North Carolina. Thanks for your help
ATB 25 Nov 2007, 17:10
Although there is a universal building code, local authorities can modify
it. For this reason, it is impossible and impractical for me to answer your
question. I could easily spend my entire career tracking all of the
versions. Summary: Call your local code authorities.
Chris 26 Nov 2007, 13:29
I have a similar situation with my water heater/furnace chimney. The
existing chimney is metal pipe (most likely double walled, but I don't know
that for certain) that extends from the basement where the (NG)water
heater and (NG) furnace tie in, up to and out of the roof about a foot and
a half. About 3 years ago, we replaced the original 20 year old furnace
with a new furnace, not a high efficiency model, but much more efficient
than the older one. This year, we replaced the water heater with a
standard efficiency model. since the installation of the water heater, we
have noticed a lot of moisture on the roof during colder periods, and even
build up of ice during extended periods of cold. Is this something that a
liner would fix, or is it indicative of another problem? The furnace has a
4 inch pipe, the water heater a 3, both tie in to a 6-8 inch pipe.
ATB 26 Nov 2007, 13:37
It is just the water vapor in the exhaust gas. There is little you can do
to stop the problem.
Liz 03 Dec 2007, 20:02
Hi! The vent to the outside water heater goes back into the house just
above a cupboard in the kitchen. The wall paint on the side of the cupboard
is beginning to bubble and chip away. It's really warm inside the cupboard.
Outside, there is a lot of moisture above the water heater which is
enclosed in a metal closet. I had a new roof put on 2 years ago. Could the
roofers have done anything wrong with the vents? Should I have the vent
rerouted to stay outside of the house?
Help!
AsktheBuilder 04 Dec 2007, 04:47
Liz,
The vent, in my opinion, should stay outside. I can't imagine why anyone would make it go in then out!
Jeff 05 Dec 2007, 16:21
I adding on to a cabinet, making it two feet taller. In the process of
extending the wall into the attic I am getting close to the hot water flue
pipe. I notice that there is sheet metal between it and the other boards
in the attic and the flue is several inches away from them. Do I need to
maintain the same distance, and do I need to add sheet metal to the exposed
(to the flue) side of my new boards? Thanks!
AsktheBuilder 05 Dec 2007, 17:14
Jeff,
Maintain that same distance!
Larry Adamson 08 Dec 2007, 11:24
I bought a house which apparently has a high efficiency gas furnace witch
is power vented. The vent is a very long pvc pipe. During the winter I get
a large amount of condensation in the exhaust pipe. I just had the power
vent motor replaced and water poured from the exhaust pipe when it was
disconnected. How can I handle this condensation?
AsktheBuilder 08 Dec 2007, 11:51
Larry,
The condensation is normal. But all of it is supposed to drain by gravity to a floor drain. Get the written installation instructions for the furnace, read the section about the PVC vent-pipe and see if it was installed correctly. View all comments |



