Bathroom Fan Ventilation
Summary: Bathroom ventilation fans or dryer exhaust fans shouldn't be vented
indoors. Vent exhaust air to the outside of your home to prevent mold
or mildew from condensation.
Related Articles: Ducted Bathroom Fan, Bathroom Exhaust Fan Leaks Cold Air, Bathroom Exhaust Fans, Bathroom Exhaust Fans Video
DEAR TIM: I'm remodeling a second floor master bathroom and will be installing a new ceiling-mounted ventilation fan. The fan itself will only be three feet from an exterior wall so I could easily extend an exhaust pipe through the attic and have it terminate at the soffit overhang. Do you see any problems with this method? I can extend the exhaust pipe towards a roof ventilation hole but I am worried that water might condense and run backwards towards the fan. What would you do? Larry L., Bloomfield Hills, MI
DEAR LARRY: I can only think of one other method that might cause more damage and destruction than the two methods you have proposed. Some builders, subcontractors and unknowing do-it-yourselfers simply let bathroom exhaust fans blow air directly into the attic space. Talk with any seasoned certified home inspector and she / he may tell you tales of horrible attic mold and wood rot in the roof framing and roof sheathing.
When this moist air gets into the attic, it will readily condense into liquid water on the cool or cold attic framing surfaces. This liquid water is the needed spark to ignite active mold growth and fungi growth that causes wood rot. The actual buildup of water on these surfaces can turn to a thick layer of frost in very cold weather. I have seen it and it is a very eery feeling.
I have found that it is often best to vent fans and dryers through the roof. I urge you to watch this video of mine to see how easy it is to install the correct vent-cap flashing on a roof. Have no fear - if done right you will have no leaks.
This same problem can happen if you extend a bathroom exhaust fan and terminate it at or near a rooftop ventilation hole. Some of the air may make it outdoors, but some will undoubtedly find its way to other places in the attic. The best way is to simply extend the pipe through the roof and end it with a special bathroom exhaust fan termination cap that includes a damper.
I prefer to use smooth galvanized steel pipe to duct the air from the fan to the outdoors. Your concern about condensation forming inside the pipe is valid. It can and does happen to thousands of people because the installer failed to insulate the pipe. For this task, I prefer to use spray foam that comes in an aerosol can. Clean the exterior of the pipe with a rag soaked in mineral spirits to remove the residual oil film from the manufacturing process. The pipe should be covered with at least 1.5 inches of dried cured foam, and you must cover all of the exposed metal pipe from the fan all the way to the exhaust termination cap at the underside of the roof.
Don't try to wrap the pipe with standard fiberglass insulation attached with duct tape. High attic temperatures can cause many traditional duct tapes to deteriorate in attics. If you want to wrap the pipe, use special duct insulation and tape that can be purchased at heating and cooling supply businesses.
If you do not feel confident installing the exhaust fan termination cap in the roof, hire a roofer to do this. It is really not that hard, but it is a job that must be done correctly to ensure you have no leaks from rain or snowmelt.
Never underestimate the amount of damage simple water vapor can do. This danger is real for all homeowners, even those who live in very dry climates. Those who live in warm humid climates are at grave risk for rapid mold growth and wood rot. Don't think for a moment that you are immune from damage because of where you live.
It is also very important to install the exhaust piping as directed by the fan manufacturer. Short runs are better and you can only insert in the line a given amount of bends in the piping. The pipe and bends create friction to the moving air. If you install too much pipe or too many bends, the fan motor simply will not be able to push the air to the exterior of your home.
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Comments:
Anouck 27 Nov 2007, 07:32
I have a very noisy fan in the bathroom and wish to replace it. I bought a
Panasonic fan but the diameter is 4 inch. The exhaust pipe in the ceiling
is 3". Do you know of a good, not too noisy fan with a 3" exhaust?
AL
ATB 27 Nov 2007, 07:49
No. Why not do this the right way? Get up in that attic and install new
4-inch insulated flexible pipe. The job could be over in as little as 20
minutes.
chuck 27 Nov 2007, 12:13
i just replaced my bathroom cieling exhaust fan. problem is that the old
sheetmetal duct going up to the roof is 7 inches the new fan has a 4 inch
exhuast. is there a problem with going from 4 inches to the 7 inch duct?
thanks
ATB 27 Nov 2007, 12:18
There is not a problem if you make the transition from 4 to 7 as close to
the roof as possible.
Geo 30 Nov 2007, 16:32
I plan to vent a future basement bath fan through the roof in my south
Michigan ranch. I can route it through a section of non-load-bearing 2x6
interior wall with studs already exposed on the main floor -- it has no
obstructions in either the basement or attic. I can insulate the outside
of the pipes to prevent external condensation, but should I be concerned
about condensation inside the pipe running back toward the fan? Would 4"
PVC be a good choice for the vertical run, to help reduce condensation?
ATB 30 Nov 2007, 19:12
PVC will not lower the chances of condensation. Insulate the pipe very
well!
Jay 01 Dec 2007, 09:43
I have three bathrooms, and in the mornings, when the outside temperature
has dropped below freezing, all of the exhaust vents drip water onto the
bathroom floors. Our house is six years old. I have my own theories about
the cause, but would like to hear an official opinion.
George 05 Dec 2007, 13:53
Here is a cautionary tale regarding condensation in a bathroom fan vent
line. A previous owner vented my bathroom with flexible, un-insulated
tubing, which was draped along the ceiling joists and terminated at a gable
vent. The low points in the tubing collected enough condensate to
completely fill up last winter. I went up to investigate, expecting a
birds nest or something, and found the water. I emptied it into a bucket
and poured it out. The next day I came down with what first seemed like a
cold, but quickly got worse. The day after that I was in the ER, and spent
5 weeks in the ICU! Turns out I had contracted legionnaire's disease from
the standing water in the vent tube. I very nearly died. Moral: Wear a
mask when you deal with standing water in attics, and vent your fans
properly, with insulation.
micahel 09 Dec 2007, 11:05
I a installing a panasonic bath fan in my upstairs bath,I have a flat roof
with fairly little attic space to work with.Their is a 4 inch exhaust duct
being used for the downstairs bath fan running up to the roof near my
upstairs bath. Is their a problem with tying in my new fan to this existing
duct?
AsktheBuilder 09 Dec 2007, 15:14
Mike,
What do the instructions say to do? I feel you might exhaust air into the other bathroom. View all comments |




