Installing Drywall In Wet Locations

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By Tim Carter
©1993-2010 Tim Carter

Summary: Drywall is the product of choice to finish interior walls. But there are different drywall types and it pays to install the right drywall in the right location. Special drywall that is moisture-resistant is made for wet locations. Regular drywall can fall apart if it is allowed to get wet on a regular basis.

Related Articles: drywall installation, drywall problems, drywall finishing

DEAR TIM: My church group is restoring a house and all of the walls and ceilings in the bathroom and laundry area have been stripped down to the wall studs. How much water-resistant drywall should we install? Is it best to use it just behind the plumbing fixtures and appliances or should all of the walls and ceiling be covered? John G., Detroit, MI

DEAR JOHN: There seems to be a significant amount of confusion about drywall, water-resistant drywall and wall board that is 100-percent waterproof. Since you are in the driver's seat at this time and have a choice of what material to use, you can produce a finished result that should last for many years with little or no damage if an occasional splash or drip occur or even if lots of water floods a wall surface.

Drywall that most people are familiar with is made with a gypsum-based core that is very strong when it is dry. Typically the drywall panels have a thick-paper wrapping that protects the gypsum core from impact and abrasion damage. But the paper readily absorbs water and can transmit it to the gypsum inside the panel. When this happens, the panel loses its rigidity and either falls apart or it becomes very mushy.

The drywall used around this utility sink should have been the special water-resistant drywall. Instead, the homeowner has had to initiate damage control by sealing the peeling-paint spots on the wall with clear urethane. PHOTO BY: Tim Carter
The drywall used around this utility sink should have been the special water-resistant drywall. Instead, the homeowner has had to initiate damage control by sealing the peeling-paint spots on the wall with clear urethane. PHOTO BY: Tim Carter
With this in mind, I don't like to use regular drywall in areas where I think water might come into contact with the wall surface on a regular or even somewhat-regular basis. Some people think that several coats of high-quality paint will protect the drywall from moisture, but this is not always the best strategy. If water gets behind the paint where the paint stops and a sink top or cabinet edge begins, you have an Achilles' heel and damage to the drywall may start if water finds this entry point from time to time.


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Water-resistant drywall has been around for over 25 years. Many people recognize it from the green-colored paper facing. In fact, it is affectionately called green board by builders and drywall hangers. It is a great product when it is used exactly as it was designed to be used.

For example, I have had great success using this green board drywall behind sinks, toilets and on walls with ceramic tile back splashes. But I have had horrific failures when I have used it behind ceramic tile in tub and shower areas. Water and water vapor can readily pass through ceramic tile grout and cause the paper facing of the drywall to disintegrate. Water-resistant drywall is simply not recommended for areas that are subject to constant moisture.

The water-resistant green board drywall also is sensitive to stud spacing. If you decide to use the green board drywall for a ceiling, the joists must be spaced 12 inches on center for 1/2 inch thick drywall. If you have 16 inch on center spacing, then you need to increase the thickness of the drywall to 5/8 inch for ceilings.

Some drywall manufacturers also state that a vapor retarder should not be used under the water-resistant drywall if the visible face of the drywall is covered by a product such as ceramic tile or other water-vapor impervious finish. I believe they are very afraid that water might get trapped within the drywall and cause damage.

In areas of these rooms that will get heavy concentrations of water, you need to use a waterproof wall material. Remember, the green board drywall is water-resistant, not waterproof. You can purchase interior panels that match the thickness of regular and water-resistant drywall that are made with cement and sand or a combination of cement, sand and other ingredients.

Furthermore, there are other innovative gypsum core products that are 100 percent waterproof. Use the waterproof wall panels behind tile and in any location where you expect water to be regularly splashed onto a wall surface.

Be sure to use hot-dipped galvanized fasteners or even stainless steel nails and screws to fasten the wall panels to the wall studs and ceiling joists. If you use raw steel fasteners, they will rust in time and the wall panels can fall off the walls or ceilings. At the very least, you will find yourself dealing with unsightly rust stains that appear through the painted surfaces should you cut corners and use the wrong fasteners.

The gypsum core of the water-resistant panels is often treated with a silicone chemical or wax-like substance. You can readily see water bead up if you wet the exposed gypsum core. The problem for years was the failure of the green-colored paper, not the actual gypsum inner core.

Because mold is in the forefront of the news, wall and ceiling panel manufacturers are constantly rolling out products that are both water-resistant and even inhibit the growth of mold on the surface of the panel. But as with any new product, always be sure to read the technical literature produced by the manufacturer.

Make sure you use the product as it was designed to be used. Always pay attention to the use of the words: water-resistant and waterproof. Waterproof means liquid water or water vapor will not harm the product. Water-resistant means limited amounts of water will not cause harm.





Comments:

Debbie Miles
03 Dec 2007, 12:14
Our basement is finished with paneling on the walls. There is about a 9 foot length that clearly has water damage at the bottom of the paneling. The rest of the area appears to be completely dry. How do I get rid of the mold that I'm sure is underneath, waterproof it so it does not happen again? Would a high quality water vapor barrier shift the water to another area of the house? We are going to install a sump pump this Spring. Also - my basement interior walls have the crystals formed on them. How would I clean them off and then can I use a liquid water vapor barrier to coat the walls or again, am I shifting the problem to another area by doing that? Thanks so much!
AsktheBuilder
03 Dec 2007, 15:09
Debbie,
Please go read *all* of the articles in these two categories: Drainage and Mold. Wait until you discover how one of my linear french drains is going to take away all of your pain!
Julie White
06 Jan 2008, 16:43
I have an old barn (50+yoa) and I love it. It is on a concrete foundation that we put in/under it about 5 years ago. It has big cracks between the old wood. We want to build a room on the inside for a friend to live in so it will be small, but with a bathroom, & kitchenette, bed & LR combo. From the outside I want it to look the same, old wood. But on the inside, a live-in, comfortable, warm, place. How do I do this so when it rains, there will be some type of barrier between the outside wall and the new inside wall? Greenboard that is vapor retarder? I don't have a clue. Please help. We are doing this ourselves! We have done a few do-it-yourself jobs that hasn't fallen down yet so we going to try this one. THANKS, Julie
AsktheBuilder
06 Jan 2008, 18:06
Julie,
You build this like any house. The interior side of the wall must be protected from all weather.
Maclain
14 Feb 2008, 14:43
I am renovating a house that is on the water. Every couple of years storms push in a few inches of water. Once it pushed in about 20 inches. I am looking to put in some kind or wall that is water proof. Or at least the bottom 4 feet of the wall. I want to make it easy to take the walls down after a flood to spray for mold behind the walls and then put them back up. Do you have any ideas or suggestions?
AsktheBuilder
15 Feb 2008, 15:37
Maclain,
You bet I do. Replace the lower part of the walls with Concrete block and plaster it.
Philip
24 Feb 2008, 13:24
I am busy remodeling my bathroom. All the drywall is removed from the studs. I want to know if I plan on putting ceramic tiles 3' up the wall, if I should put cement board on the hole wall, or just on the part with tiles
Andrew T
25 Feb 2008, 11:08
We live in a condominium and had water intrusion on an exterior wall of the master bedroom. The association made several attempts to repair the leaks and then replaced the drywall. The water came in again several times and a moisture test reading was 99.9 % satuartion. We believe the problem finally has been resolved. The moisture reading now within acceptable ranges. The association is refusing to do mold testing. Should the drywall be replaced again?
rodney
29 Feb 2008, 11:35
Purchased a Newly constructed home and noticed that there is just plan drywall around the garden tub should i be worried?
AsktheBuilder
01 Mar 2008, 15:06
Philip,
I would install cement board or a similar material in locations near water. That should be your guideline.

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