Backfilling a Foundation Wall

By Tim Carter
©1993-2008 Tim Carter

Summary: Foundation walls are one of the most important structural elements of your home. They must be strong and supported well before you place vast amounts of heavy soil against them. The backfill soil can quickly crack or push in a concrete wall that is not strong enough to resist the force of the dirt.

 

DEAR TIM: I am building a new home and the poured concrete foundation was installed 17 days ago. The weather has been cool with temperatures averaging about 51 F. I was told to let the concrete cure for 25-30 days before backfilling it. However, the contractor is applying pressure to backfill so the rough carpentry subs can get to work. Should I cave in and let them backfill against the walls or should I suffer the consequences of delaying the project? Shawn S., Pittsburgh, PA

DEAR SHAWN: In my opinion, concrete is a mystical building material. It often arrives at a jobsite in a truck pre-mixed and ready to pour. Typically it has the consistency of cooked oatmeal, but hours later it resembles damp solid rock. This transformation happens because of a chemical reaction that starts to happen the instant water is added to the Portland cement powder. The hydration chemical reaction causes microscopic crystals to grow that connect all of the sand and gravel to one another.

Believe it or not, this is a precast foundation wall. It is made from poured concrete and rests on compacted gravel, not a poured concrete footer. If this wall was backfilled before the interior floor was poured, it would collapse in no time. PHOTO BY: Tim Carter
Believe it or not, this is a precast foundation wall. It is made from poured concrete and rests on compacted gravel, not a poured concrete footer. If this wall was backfilled before the interior floor was poured, it would collapse in no time. PHOTO BY: Tim Carter
The trouble is, this chemical reaction continues for weeks, and even months, after the concrete truck leaves the jobsite. In fact, standard concrete that is moist cured under ideal conditions often only achieves 40-45 percent of its design strength after three days. After seven days, it should hit 75 percent of its final design strength. To get to 100% of it's design strength, you often have to wait 28 days or more. These numbers assume temperatures at or near 70F.

In cold weather, the strength-building process can slow considerably and even stop completely if the temperature gets very cold. Once the weather warms up, the concrete starts to strengthen again on its own so long as it still retains moisture.

If you had told me that you had vertical steel reinforcing bars in the poured concrete, then maybe I would say to move ahead and backfill. But vertical reinforcing steel is rarely placed in residential concrete foundation walls. Foundation walls often have two rows of horizontal reinforcing steel placed near the bottom and top of the walls. This steel helps prevent vertical cracks in the foundation walls should the soil beneath the foundation shift or move. This movement is an up and down movement.

Backfill dirt that is placed against the foundation wall causes a lateral or sideways movement. Vertical steel bars add enormous strength to poured concrete and help prevent horizontal cracks that are caused by soil pressures. Lateral pressure can also be caused by the heavy machinery that places the dirt against the walls. An inexperienced heavy equipment operator can crack a new foundation wall by pushing dirt into the void space against the wall instead of gently dropping it in from above.

Backfilling a poured concrete wall or even a masonry concrete block wall can be very risky if two other tradespeople are not finished with their work. The basement slab and the first floor that sits on top of the foundation should be complete before backfilling proceeds. These two building systems help lock the bottom and top of the foundation walls in place as the soil pressure pushes against the walls. I have seen poured concrete foundations that were backfilled before a basement slab was poured. In certain instances the wall cracked and slid off the footer from the intense soil pressure.

Keep in mind that wet soil is very heavy. It is not uncommon for this material to weigh nearly 100 pounds per cubic foot. When you calculate the weight of all of the soil being dumped against the foundation you quickly discover it is tens of thousands of pounds.

My advice to you is to wait. Your builder and many others will scoff at you and will put pressure on you to move ahead. But this pressure pales in comparison to the weight of the dirt that is placed against the foundation walls. Furthermore, if the foundation does crack because of premature backfilling, this structural scar will haunt you until you eventually sell your home. In fact, you will probably have to explain what happened to the professional home inspector that is hired by the buyers after they see the ugly cracked foundation walls.

The vertical steel bars that should be placed in poured concrete walls are not hard to install. It often only takes an experienced crew maybe one extra day, perhaps two, to install this valuable structural component. The reason steel is needed is simple. Concrete has fantastic compressive strength. This means if you squeeze or compress it, it takes enormous pressure to crack concrete. But if you try to bend or pull concrete, it only has one-tenth the strength it exhibits when you compress it.

Steel, on the other hand has enormous tensile strength. The steel bars a contractor would often buy have a 40,000 pound tensile strength rating. These steel bars, once placed inside the wet concrete, transfer their strength to the concrete. Imagine how strong a foundation wall might be that has vertical steel bars placed two-feet on center. I can tell you that a wall built this way will stand the test of time.



 


Comments:

Lazarous
08 Feb 2008, 08:11
I'm trying to put up a dweling house on a gentle slope, with one side of the house on a higher floor level than the other. Does this show in the footing?
AsktheBuilder
08 Feb 2008, 09:51
Lazarous,
You may need to step the footing. The footing would look similar to a set of steps, but imagine the length of each step tread in feet, not inches.
joelinus1@hotmail.com
02 Apr 2008, 17:55
i found your articles very useful. I'd still like to find more re building perfect forms for concrete walls and foundations, especially for bigger ones like 8'l x 16'h feet---8" width--
i'm hip to the .5"steel grid but
how can i make sure the mix properly fills the cavity?
peace
AsktheBuilder
05 Apr 2008, 10:09
Joel,
Try doing a search on Google. You need a tool that vibrates the concrete mix.
habbash
01 Jul 2008, 12:48
i want know about Q.S & also about how calculate building
Alena
22 Jul 2008, 18:08
we are worried that our builder backfilled our foundation too soon - approx.5-7 days after poring the concrete. If the foundation happens to crack how long after backfilling would it happen?
Thank You,
Alena and Josef
Sherry
03 Aug 2008, 08:42
We built our home 17 years ago; it is built on rock, with a minimal layer of topsoil around the preserved wood foundation. The house is built into the slope of the hill so that we have a walkout basement with windows that are close to the ground on two sides of the house. We never had any problems with water coming into the house through the windows (which have guards around them) until two or three years ago. The problem occurred after the man next door brought in about 50 loads of backfill from the municipality and elevated his land by about 20 feet. It is now significantly higher than our property at the side that is giving problems. When it rains heavily, water pours into the house through the only basement window on that side of the house. (We have no problems on the other side of the house.) There is no obvious flow of water from his land to ours (that is, a rivulet of water), but something is happening that is causing problems that did not occur over a 14 or 15 year period of time preceding his backfilling his property. (He has still not built and I don't see how he can build on backfill, which now covers the accessible section of a one acre plot.) I have put tiles under the soil to carry away excess water. I have gutters. I have plastic lining that I renewed on the side of the house. I have dug a trench to the extent possible at the foot of his land, but it is not possible to go far down because it is mostly bedrock on my land. I don't know what else I can do. I have complained to the municipality but to date they have done nothing. I am considering a civil suit if I cannot resolve the issue. I would like to know if it is possible that saturation of the backfill is resulting in drainage onto my property and saturating the limited amount of topsoil that is on top of bedrock on my property, causing the overflow into the window area so that it fills with water and flows into the walls of the house. Can this be happening without an obvious stream of water from his land to mine? Thank you for your assistance.
phil kuno
05 Aug 2008, 20:53
I've attended a few developer new open houses in the chicago suburbs & noticed foundation cracks at window wells to be common. These were aprox. 8'-10'basements w/the cracks running from the bott. corner of the conc. window opng. to the floor.
also, since concete contracts or shrinks with time and there are typically no joints provided in foundations, would'nt cracks naturally occur?
your response & input is appreciated
phil
Chris
20 Aug 2008, 10:49
Sherry,

Changing the surface topography is going to change the subsurface hydrology. By raising one area of the land, you change both the surface and the subsurface drainage patterns.

If you had 14-15 years of no problems, and then the problems occurred right after the topography was changed, then you are probably correct. It is worth considering whether anything else has changed (increased rainfall in recent years; other land use changes in the area) to rule out other factors, but what you say certainly sounds reasonable.

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