French Drain

By Tim Carter
©1993-2010 Tim Carter

Summary: A French drain is an in-ground trench or pit that captures groundwater. If you build a trench French drain, it can collect groundwater and divert it to a low spot on the land. The best French drain design is one that allows water to freely flow from the trench back out onto the surface of the land. French drains and water go hand and hand; the water can be removed from your soil if a knowledgeable contractor installs one for you.

Related Articles: soil drainage solution, simple trench drain, french drain illustration

DEAR TIM: We are demolishing a house built in 1923, and intend to build a larger home on the site. There is an active spring on the property, and the old house had water and dampness problems. What can we do to ensure the spring will not cause problems as we build, and after we inhabit the home? Will the spring cause soil compaction issues and/or soil stability issues over time? Barry P., Bethesda, MD

DEAR BARRY: Water is the nemesis of many a homeowner. It doesn't make any difference where your home is located, as houses built on slabs, with basements, on flat ground or sloped land can all have problems caused by surface water that eventually becomes spring water. Underground springs are a special situation that affects certain building lots, but with a little extra work, the spring on your lot can be rendered harmless. If you install a french drain on the lot, the spring can be controlled with ease.

Look at the water from the active spring covering the driveway. It hasn't rained for nearly two days, yet water still is flowing out of the soil. The hill continues up behind the house for several hundred feet. Thousands of gallons of water are in the soil, working their way toward this spring. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter
Look at the water from the active spring covering the driveway. It hasn't rained for nearly two days, yet water still is flowing out of the soil. The hill continues up behind the house for several hundred feet. Thousands of gallons of water are in the soil, working their way toward this spring. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter
Freshwater springs are a desired item for some land owners, but they are feared by others. If you own a larger piece of land and are lucky enough to have a spring above your home, you can actually pipe the water to the home using gravity as the delivery method. The spring water can be used for washing clothes, watering indoor plants, and irrigating outdoor landscaping or gardens if necessary. There are countless uses for pure and natural spring water. If you have it tested regularly, it may be excellent drinking water. You may want to consider capturing your spring water to use for some purpose.

The water that is issuing forth from the spring started as rainwater. Rain enters soil and/or flows across bedrock as it starts its journey back to oceans or lakes. The local geology of an area determines whether springs will be plentiful or non-existent. In areas where the subsoil has a clay component or bedrock close to the surface, the rainwater that soaks into the soil starts to find it more difficult to go down and actually starts to move sideways along the top of the thick clay subsoil or bedrock ledge.

If the surface topography of the land is such where the shape of the land is like a funnel, the flow of the water in the soil can be concentrated to a single point. It is not uncommon for this water to create a visible spring where the water flows out of the soil onto the surface of the land. In other areas, the flow of the spring water stays hidden below the surface of the ground.

There are any number of ways to deal with spring water as you build a new home. One method is to dig a trench on the uphill side of the foundation excavation so you can intercept the water before it becomes a problem. The trench can wrap around the jobsite and the water can flow past the construction site. I prefer this method over digging a pit for the water. The pit method requires periodic pumping. Pumps can fail, and when this happens, the excavation can become flooded.

The spring should not cause any problems with the soil stability of your new home. If the existing house built in 1923 had no structural or foundation problems, this tells you the spring is a shallow one and the soil is probably strong enough for your new home. If you have any doubt whatsoever, I suggest you hire a geotechnical soil engineer to look at the soil once the foundation excavation for your new home is complete.

This light-colored area on the driveway was caused by water that flows from an active spring. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter
This light-colored area on the driveway was caused by water that flows from an active spring. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter
Using soil maps and possibly samples of the deep soil inside the excavation, the engineer may give the site a passing grade. If he feels there may be a problem, the engineer may suggest piers or some other system to stabilize the new foundation.

The spring water will not be a problem for your new home if you install a top-quality waterproofing system on the outside of your new foundation. There are many different systems, and the one I used 20 years ago still keeps my basement bone dry. If you are using a high-quality  builder, he will know one or more great systems to use. One key to keeping your basement dry is backfilling around the house with plenty of clean, washed gravel.

Another necessary component of a foundation waterproofing system is a perforated drain pipe that is 6 inches in diameter placed at the bottom of the excavation next to the concrete footer that supports your foundation. This drain pipe must surround the house and be extended to a low spot on your property where the spring water can drain by gravity. If your lot is too level, preventing the pipe from exiting at grade level, you will have to install an interior or exterior sump pit, and pump the water out to keep your basement dry.

It is nearly impossible to stop the flow of spring water. The best practice is to capture the water and divert it around your home. Water that is flowing underground wants to take the path of least resistance. So make it easy for the water to bypass your basement.

To do this, use plenty of 1-inch diameter or larger rounded washed gravel. Water flows through this with little or no effort. Water loves to travel through rounded washed gravel and struggles to pass through soil, especially soil that has a clay component.

If purchasing a new lot for a home, always try to buy a lot that has natural slope to it. This slope will come in handy when dealing with groundwater of any type.





Comments:

Shammy
20 Dec 2007, 00:32
My land has a ravine 10 ft depth. Water from higher ground flow through this area. Small amount of water consistently flow even during dry weather. Could I build a concrete
U-drain along this 240 ft stretch. Do I need french drain outside the U- drain to drain out water. Pl advise. Thank you.
AsktheBuilder
20 Dec 2007, 08:10
Shammy,
Here is my advice:
You can do whatever you want. Read all of my Drainage category columns and make a decision with confidence!
Joe Williams
22 Dec 2007, 11:02
I have a sloped lot from from to back on 1 acre. I have a unfinished basement with 4 feet of headroom on the from to 7 feet on the back of the house. I am getting moisture in parts of the basement and some standing water on one side during rain or melting snow times. I dries out during the dry time of the year. Questions:
1.Will moisture damage my stem walls made of block and concrete?
2. Should I install a french drain on the down slop on the side of my house first and then consider another one inside my basement? I am 62, retired and somewhat handy.
3.How do I get the inside french drain on the back of the house through the cement block wall to drain to the outside. Can I cut a hole in one of the blocks for my drain pipe without damaging the integrity of the wall supporting my house?
Any general advice is appreciated. Thanks.
AsktheBuilder
22 Dec 2007, 11:22
Joe,
Read ALL of the columns in my Drainage category since you have oodles of free time on your hands. All of the information you seek and more is there. The water should not harm the actual composition of the block or concrete.
Jason
01 Feb 2008, 17:32
First of all, you're kind of my hero....

2nd of all, I've read all your items on drainage, but my lot seems to have a few problems that I'm not really sure how to fix.

I have a house built in the 50's ish with a cement fence that surrounds the back yard (it's a california thing I guess). this cement fence causes drainage problems as you can imagine. I am MAYBE planning on using french drains back here... but the only way for me to pipe the water out, is to run the pipe to the front of the house by going under the cement fence and down the side yard (2-3 feet away from the house... small side yard)

So, even though I have a cement fence, you think I should just increase the dirt level around my house to force the water away from the foundation...instead of using a french drain? I still think though, that since the water has nowhere to go, it's just going to find it's way back to my foundation, under my new added dirt.

Also, based on your recommendations, I am going to be putting french drains in the front of my house.

The only slope that exists is in the front yard (the back is pretty level) but again, the back is surrounded by a cement fence.

I also need to make some drainage lines for my gutters that will be installed soon. My house is small enough to drain everything in the front.

Okay, so... Drainage in the back yard, front yard, and gutters.

BUT, my front yard is small and I am not sure where or how to "artistically" drain the water. I've heard that I can dig a big drain pit and fill it with rock, then dirt on top, but that seems like a tall order. I'm more than happy to do it, but, again, tall order. This drain pit would be completely under ground and no one would be able to see it by looking.

I can probably go to the street, but I have to cut a hole in the curb. I'd also have to go under my NEW sidewalks that were just fixed, and even then, I might lose my angle b/c I'd have to take the pipe down, and then up again.

Someone also told me I should connect my drains to my main plumbing line. That's gotta be against code though right?

I live in Southern California where it doesn't rain very much, but when it does, it can pour. So I have to do something.

What do you think I should do with the water in my back yard?
Where do you think I should drain my gutters and front french drains?
AsktheBuilder
01 Feb 2008, 17:43
Jason,
I read your story. I am fairly familiar with your part of the planet. Your soils are often quite sandy and relatively well-drained. You only get rain for a few months, and it is when you typically do not spend lots of times outdoors. Am I close on most of these assumptions? If so, I would do nothing. When it rains, so what if your ground is a little soft for a few days. You want to see soggy ground? Come to Cincinnati in about a month.
Jason
01 Feb 2008, 17:59
Thanks for the quick response.

I'm mostly concerned about foundation damage. I had a lot of cracks fixed when I bought the house (paid by the seller) and I was told it was from poor drainage. So, you think as long as I get it away from the house I should quit worrying?

Who knows, maybe just by putting up gutters, and fixing the negative slope, I am fixing the problem.
AsktheBuilder
01 Feb 2008, 19:28
Jason,
Who says the cracks and the water are related? The cracks may be from shoddy construction. Talk to some local soils geologists at your closest college or university. That was my major in college.
Tammy
06 Feb 2008, 17:52
I live in a small town in florida with a 3 acre piece of property and I think I have a natural spring at the outer edge of my pond. It is not a hazard to the foundation to the home it actually not a hazard at all. My question is if you know who to contact about how to go about opening the spring to let more spring water into the pond. Or any websites that you know with more information on preserving a natural spring. Any information would be much appreciated.
AsktheBuilder
07 Feb 2008, 07:48
Tammy,
Great question! Contact your state geological department.

     View all comments
*Name:
Email:
Notify me about new comments on this page
Hide my email
*Text:
Security Image:

Visual CAPTCHA


 
Contact us to Advertise on this site.
Have a Suggestion?
Do it right, not over!

Ask the Builder Comment Help

Thanks for stopping by! The Comments Section of my AsktheBuilder.com website are a place for you to share stories about how you've solved a similar problem at your home or carry on a conversation with other visitors. I tried, at the beginning, to be part of the conversation, but there were too many questions being asked and it was impossible for me to keep up and get my regular work finished each day.

If you want to ask me a direct question, you should go to the Ask Tim page of this website.

Helpful Comment Tips: If you need help with a problem, please try these things now before you type in a comment. You could discover your answer in just minutes.
Don't show this alert again.