Concrete Wall Repairs & Concrete Epoxy

By Tim Carter
©1993-2009 Tim Carter

Summary: Epoxy concrete wall repair products are super for foundation leaks or cracks. For a waterproof foundation, use concrete epoxy to glue or actually weld the cracks together. Your concrete wall repairs will save you money in the long run.

Concrete Wall Repair Cements & Epoxies

The rain was pouring. It had been doing it for several days. However, at this particular moment, it was torrential rain. I was in the basement of a little house I had purchased. It needed some work and I thought I could fix it up and make a small profit.

I went into the basement to check on something and water was squirting out of a crack in the wall. Not only that, water was shooting four inches high up from a crack in the floor! I was panic stricken.

The house was in the middle of a hillside. Massive quantities of water were flowing above and beneath the surface of the ground. Needless to say, I had my work cut out for me.

Patching Cracks

Cracks in concrete or concrete block walls are very frustrating. I believe this is so, because both building materials represent permanence. It isn't unreasonable for these materials to possibly last 50 to 100 years. Cracks, however, transmit a failure sign. What's more, if the crack actually widens, it is a sign of a big problem. Soil movement, poor soil, or faulty design may cause expensive repairs to be undertaken.

Crack Repair Products

Years ago cement companies developed products that have the ability to fill cracks in concrete and block walls. These products worked so well that they were able to resist a hydrostatic head or the weight of a water column. These special cements expand as they dry. In contrast, ordinary Portland cement shrinks as it dries.

If you are willing to put a little work into a repair job, these materials are very effective at stopping leaks. The trick is to chisel the correct profile in the crack. You need to undercut the crack. This means that the the crack would look like a dovetail joint in a drawer when viewed from the side.

Making the crack into a simple V shape is the worst thing to do. As the special cement dries, it actually pushes itself out of the crack!

Super Glue!

Yes, there are glues for concrete. In fact there are many different types. You can bond old concrete to new concrete, old to old, and new to new. This is done by using special concrete epoxies.

These glues are similar to any standard household epoxies. However, they are formulated with special chemistry that allows them to bond to the concrete and withstand any chemical attack from the alkaline chemicals in the concrete itself. Some of these epoxies have tremendous strength characteristics. They can actually 'weld' concrete back together in certain situations.

These epoxies can be applied by serious DIY'rs or applied by professionals. Here in Cincinnati, there are several companies that will inject epoxies into cracked walls. They will even offer lifetime warranties in certain cases.

Brush - On Compounds

You have probably seen commercials about magic brush-on compounds that will make your wall leak problems disappear. Well, that may take some black magic! There are numerous brush-on waterproofing compounds in the marketplace. I have used many of them. In certain instances they can stop water. However, most manufacturers insist that they be applied on the side of the wall where the leak originates. This can be a tall order to fill, as often this requires an enormous amount of digging. In some instances it may be nearly impossible to excavate one side of a wall.

Furthermore, these compounds rarely have any give. If the wall crack opens or moves, the brush-on compound will crack.

On many of my jobs, we did successfully apply it to the inside of a basement wall or the outside of a retaining wall with great success. I'm convinced that this success was directly related to following the directions on the label.

Surface preparation is critical. Wall surfaces need to be squeaky clean and moist. The thickness of each coat needs to be closely monitored. Apply too much and it can pull itself from the wall. Often people want to glob it on a wall. Two thinner coats usually work much better than one thick coat.

These products also can be used as a decoration. If you are artistic, create a texture!





Comments:

Tom
04 May 2008, 09:43
I am about to tackle a foundation leak problem and want it done right the first time!

The home is built in 1971. It has a daylight basement. I have a crack in the foundation that moisture has found the path of least resistance. The crack begins at the corner of one of the windows. The crack continues down at an angle approximately 1' above the basement floor. The water also seeps through where they used the concrete anchors for the forms. Those anchor holes are about 2' from the crack. I put new drain tile from the window a few years back. This helped a lot, but it still does not solve the entire problem. Water does not pour through but it does get moisture on the wall. In the past 17 years it does not seem to have gotten worse.

Before finishing out our basement I want to repair this problem. I planned on digging (approximately 5' long X 7') deep along the foundation exposing the crack and the ties where water seeps through. Then I wanted to seal it up the best way possible. I have heard of using a membrane to waterproof the exterior. Do you recommend this procedure? I also overkill my projects and wanted to seal the outside of the membrane using black tar. I then wanted to use the apoxy method inside the residence on the crack and the ties?

I don't want to have to deal with this again.

What are your thoughts?

Thanks,
Tom in Idaho
john
16 May 2008, 17:29
Tim, I am putting a new vinyl liner in a concrete pool and need to flush up holes and joints left by the form work before installation the finished surface needs to be glassy smooth so as not to show through the liner any ideas on types of products that may be available and handy hints on applying
thanks John
Guillaume
23 Jun 2008, 10:53
Hi Tim,

Last week I installed a French drain around my 60-year old house and I am currently doing excavation work to get the water away from the foundation. The concrete foundation was built directly over stones, about 3 feet deep. I have water leaking into the basement through spaces at the interface between the concrete and the stones. What would you suggest using to seal these spaces? I have been told by the excavation guy to use concrete and then to apply black plastic over it. I didn't find any information on your site about old houses built directly on stones.
Shannon
01 Jul 2008, 16:39
Hello! I have read your waterproofing section about drain tile. We recently had drain tile installed. Now, the new concrete that was poured to cover the drain tile system (about 6 weeks ago) is beginning to crack and crumble away from the old concrete (floor). I understand there may be a minor stress crack or two, but right now we are looking at 12 cracks, one of which is 6 feet long. Plus as mentioned above, crumbling is beginning to occur. The company claims this is normal. We ourselves in this household don't know any better. Is this normal or not? Thanks in advance.
Bruce
10 Jul 2008, 12:11
Hello Tim,
I have a basement with an 6 inch stove pipe going through it. The person before me had a wood stove and this was the chimney for it. The 6 inch hole is about 3 feet below grade in the dirt so when it rains water runs in. The metal single wall pipe must be rusted so I want to seal off this 6 inch hole in the block wall a then back fill. I just bought the house a month ago and now need to take care if this problem. I need to know how to repair the block wall. I thought I would fill the hole with some filler then use some cement to cover up the hole. Would this be the correct way to do this?

Thanks in advance
g
18 Jul 2008, 22:57
why do you have an ad in the middle of the essay that can,t be removed.
Bruce Fontaine
27 Aug 2008, 15:32
Tim,
I have a basement furnace (formerly oil-burning, now with gas burning attachment) that has an exhaust/intake? pipe with a good seal.
Six inches below that there is an ash drawer (the 6"x6" door is labeled Portland Stove FDY Co.).
It's connected to a chimney, though we don't have a fireplace.
The center depth seems to be 2 feet below grade in the dirt.

The problem: When it rains water runs in, a lot of water.
No other signs of leaking anywhere else in the basement.

What can I DIY with supplies at Home Depot?

Thanks in advance.

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