Minimize Clogged Drains - Plumbing Installation Tips
Summary: Clogged drains can be minimized by using special plumbing techniques and properly sized parts. Read and use these tips to avoid an unsavory chore.
Installing Plumbing to Minimize Clogs
I have been a licensed master plumber for nearly 20 years. It has been a learning experience the entire way. I have learned from my mistakes. I also have learned some tips from seasoned plumbers and sharp inspectors. Here are some plumbing installation tips that may help you minimize clogs.
Bigger is Not Always Better
Some people think that if you oversize piping you will have fewer clogs. Actually, the opposite is true. Large diameter pipes spread out the energy of the moving water. Keep in mind that the weight of the water moving through drainage pipes under the influence of gravity is the locomotive force propelling solid waste into the sewer or septic system. A large pipe allows water to spread out along the bottom portion of the pipe. A smaller pipe handling the same volume of drain water will pick up and carry solid waste faster and farther. Smaller diameter pipes concentrate this energy and help to quickly move solid waste through the system.
Plumbing codes regulate pipe sizes and attach a value to each fixture. These are often called fixture units. Toilets obviously discharge much more water at a faster rate than a drinking fountain. As such, toilets need a large pipe size to handle the solid waste and large amount of water. Three inch pipes are used to handle most residential toilets. 1.5 inch lines are used to handle waste from kitchen, bathroom and powder room sinks. 2 inch drain lines are common pipes for laundry drains.
Clogs can develop easily on horizontal runs of pipe. Friction causes the water within the pipe to slow down. To achieve good water flow, try to install horizontal drain pipes so they have a minimum of 1/4 inch per foot slope. 3/8 of an inch per foot is actually better.
No Hard 90's Under Ground!
Sharp bends in piping also slow down water movement. They cause the moving water to loose energy. The 90 degree bends also are tough to pass through with drain cleaning equipment.
Never install a 90 degree fitting under ground except when used at the base of a vertical plumbing stack. This is where a vertical pipe turns and goes horizontal. If you have to turn 90 degrees, use two 45 degree angle fittings separated by a 12 or 18 inch piece of straight pipe.
Tub and Shower Drains
When I installed my kids tub drain piping 12 years ago, I had a feeling trouble was brewing. I clearly remember thinking that because of the way I had to twist the 1.5 inch trap and piping around in the tight joist bay, there could be problems. Sure enough, when the tub stopped up, I couldn't get a plumbing snake through the line.
I would have had much better success if I had installed a 2 inch trap and branch line to the primary drain stack. That is my advice to you - use 2 inch traps and drain piping for bathtubs. Most plumbing codes mandate that shower stalls use 2 inch piping and traps. It only makes sense for tubs to be piped in a similar manner. The 2 inch traps accept drain cleaning snakes more readily.
Cleanouts - Test Tees
Where ever possible, make sure you install a cleanout or test tee within visible horizontal runs. Install the fitting so the access plug is not pointed down. Turn it slightly up from the horizontal position. You may never need to use the cleanout, but will thank your lucky stars if there is a clog!
Don't Guess
If you are trying to install your own plumbing system, don't guess at pipe sizes. Get a copy of a code book to make sure you are using the correct sized piping. Check to see if you are even allowed to install plumbing. Some states have highly restrictive laws that do not permit DIY work.
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Comments:
steven 17 Dec 2007, 22:27
What is the correct size snake to use on a 1.5 inch shower/tub drain line?
I get a recurring slow drain problem. After I snake the drain with my 1/2
inch hand cranked snake, the drain runs great for about 3-4 weeks and then
starts to slow down again. I am told that my snake is not heavy enough to
clear the drain properly.
AsktheBuilder 18 Dec 2007, 08:26
Steven,
That is the correct size. The issue is the piping. If you want no clogs for years, you need to replace the tub drain branch line. I guarantee you that when you see what is in that pipe, you will wonder how anything ever got through.
Pedro 14 Sep 2008, 07:19
I'm stumped. I moved the location of my kitchen sink approximately 10'
from its original spot. I installed an air-admittance valve and am still
having a problem with clogs. I snaked the line just to be sure that it's
not something silly like a rag in the line. My new branch line is sloped,
I have the AAV, dishwasher drain is looped (no airgap) the clogging happens
too soon to be down the line in the old pipe. I think I'm getting some
pretty serious siphonage. My AAV is 4" above the trap. The pipe going
into the wall is pretty low in the cabinet, so there is about a 12" drop
from the garbage disposal elbow straight into the trap. Any ideas out
there? Please help, my wife is getting mad.....
Joanne Morrissey 11 Mar 2009, 12:47
We are building in Ellis County, Texas. Sewer/water lines were laid in
yesterday but the kitchen sink & washer sewer goes across to the other side
and joins the bathroom
sewer at 90 degrees. I can just see a log-jam at a corner like that. Advice please. Thanks View all comments |




