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Understanding House Settling Cracks

By Tim Carter
©1993-2009 Tim Carter

Summary: House settling cracks drive people crazy. People wonder how to identify house foundation cracks or any sort of cracks. Planning ahead on your new home construction will save you foundation movement and cracking in the future.

Related Articles: Foundation Crack Illustrations, Settlement Cracks - Causes & Prevention, House Settling Cracks Information


Cracks happen for all sorts of reasons. Different construction materials have different expansion and contraction coefficients, some materials change shape and size as they absorb water and water vapor while materials immediately adjacent to them do not budge, and Mother Earth is a dynamic body - meaning soils can move!

Understanding House Settling Cracks

If you have an understanding as to why cracks happen, then you can often work to make permanent repairs. There are some cracks that can't be easily repaired. What's more, it is hard to totally disguise some cracks. Large houses have joints within them. These are places where the house relieves movement, just like the joints in our fingers, arms and legs. I often see cracks in modern homes where columns support beams. You can see cracks right where the contact point between these two structural members meet.

Hardwood floors often develop cracks. There are all sorts of reasons for that to happen, and almost always they can be traced to a humidity or moisture problem.

Soil Problems

I routinely act as an expert witness in court cases involving poor quality construction. Recently, I finished a case that involved a house built on poor soil. The foundation actually dropped several inches in numerous places and caused all sorts of havoc within the home and in its outside walls. There were huge vertical cracks in the brick work, the basement floor looked like an earthquake had struck and interior steel I-beams were twisted and compressed so much that they were crushing 2x4 plates. I was amazed at what can really happen when houses are built on poor soil.

If you are getting ready to build a home, you need to realize that certain subdivisions are cut and fill operations. In other words, the developer takes dirt from one place and uses it for fill in other parts of the subdivision. If this soil is not placed with great care, it can settle! If you think that you are building on fill dirt, by all means spend the extra money to get it tested by a soil engineering firm. If you don't and you end up with problems, I GUARANTEE you that you will spend ten times the amount hiring an attorney! Request soil inspections in your contract and hire the soil testing company yourself.

Shallow Foundations

Many houses are built on slabs or have crawlspaces. The footers for these structures need to be placed just below the frost limit in the local area. The closer the frost line is to the surface (warmer climates) the greater chance you might have for droughts that cause your foundation to move.

If you live in an area of clay soils and have seen a dried mud puddle with large cracks in it, then you have expansive clay soils in your area. Not only do these soils shrink sideways as they dry (this creates the cracks you see), but they also shrink down in volume. The shrinkage can be dramatic and can cause all sorts of cracking, door and window fit problems, etc.

You can plan ahead and minimize foundation movement if you install water injection pipes next to the footer when you build the structure. I always did this on my jobs and it has given my clients the ability of tricking the soil under their houses and room additions into thinking it is raining up there on the surface!

The way you trick the soil is to install a four inch perforated pipe along the side or on top of the footer of the shallow foundation. You install one or two tee fittings in the piping so that you can extend a vertical riser pipe up to the surface. Install a loose fitting cap over this riser. When the drought hits, you simply let a garden hose run very slowly in the riser pipe for 24 hours or so. The pipe will evenly distribute the water around the footer if you have installed the footer fairly level. This system is simple and inexpensive to install and will save you hundreds of dollars in repairs and lots of headaches as well!

If you are getting ready to build in an area that has expansive clay soils, HIRE a soils engineer and a structural engineer to tell you how to design the foundation to withstand the differential soil movements that will occur!

If you try to fix a house that has cracks, talk with a structural engineer. If you pier one or more corners, you may create new stress points at other places!



Comments:

Dr. James Miller
25 Dec 2007, 08:56
Dear Mr. Carter:

Merry Christmas! Here it is christmas morning and my christmas present was a denail from my insurance company in regards to severe cracking in my house and outside brick.

The engineer stated that it came from peat soil and that the reason is the ground settled over 40 years. He stated that there were certain kind of cracks that ocurr with sudden cracks and over time cracks. He noted my cracks to be in a certain direction.

Can you determine what type of cracks are seen from over time naturakl progression or sudden impacts from pile sheet driving 3000 feet away for over 2 year period?

Thanks for your help.

James Miller Sad home owner

The construction company denies the claim even though their are hundred or more houses this has happened too and my insurance company is on the ban waggin with them. My guess is there so much damage to repair that they AUTOMATICALLY DENY DENY DENY!!!
Lestine Ford
08 May 2008, 11:16
My Auant has been in her home, located in north central Florida since 1969 and in the 1980'ss she noticed cracks on the outter walls of the brick. Over time the inside and the drive way has shown even more extensive cracks.

Her insurance comapany has denied a sinkhole claim and she is not sure where to go next for help.

The reports that were done by the insurance company agree with them of course.They say the engineer conducted test of subsurface ad concluded that the distress is attributed to the presence of an organic enriched slightly silty to sility sand zone of loose sandy soil. The house was built on or neara landfill

My aunt is a widow on a fixed income and needs any assistance that you can think of.
Todd Slaughter
19 May 2008, 01:15
I bought a new townhouse in the Dallas area just seven months ago and I've been seeing what appear to be foundation issues almost since day one. There are very long stair-step cracks in the brick, there are cracks in the walls in nearly every upstairs room, and where the driveway and garage used to be flush there is now a 1.75" difference in height. There are four units in my building, and four buildings in the community. Nobody else is having trouble like I am. Each building is U shaped and I'm on the end. The foundation is supposedly a piered and post-tensioned, and the builder is telling me that this is all just normal settling for the clay soils of North Texas. I can understand that the soil is an issue, but the piers and the post-tensioning of the foundation were clearly supposed to take care of it. I feel I'm getting the brush-off from the builder. He's offering to come fix the cracks in the walls, but I don't think the movement's going to stop. It's getting worse every day. Should I hire a lawyer?
F. Elna
28 May 2008, 13:14

My house got hit by a tornado on Mother’s day May 11th I realized I have several cracks in my wall from the closet and door frames to the ceiling the doors are not closing now I called my insurance they sent me an adjuster he looked at it and noted things in his pad I just got a summary of the claim he states that all I need is masking tape and paint
From your experience does that sound right?

Thank you,

404 933-8268
Andrew Bowman
04 Jun 2008, 14:45
Mr. Carter,

We had a custom built home completed approx 2 years ago (4/06). About 6 months ago our glass block windows in the basement started to crack then one blew out. The builder says that the windows were installed without enough space between the blocks. The installer says that the install is correct and stress from settling is causing the cracks. We have a poured foundation in (NE Ohio)that has 2-3 small hairline cracks in in the foundation in the basement. We have noticed no other settling doors, windows, drywall, etc are all fine. Who is correct and what action do you suggest going forward?
Thanks,
Andrew Bowman
D Rios
04 Sep 2008, 23:05
Our home is three years old, I hear a popping noise in only one of the bedrooms almost every day. We recently had our monsoon season and noticed that the popping sound was not as often. Now that our monsoon is almost over the popping is coming back. My husband says the home is settling. There are no signs of cracking on the walls inside or out. Is this anything I need to worry about. We do live on a very busy street and I was wonderin of the vibration from the traffic has anything to do with this .
S Greer
04 Oct 2008, 14:06
I recently purchased a home in Fort Worth, TX. The house is 40 years old. I am thinking that after 40 years any foundation problems I would have would have developed long before now. Do I need to run soak hoses along my foundation considering how old the house is?
jeff Racouillat
14 Oct 2008, 14:37
I would like to know how long does it take land to start to settle. I have live in our house for 29 years with no problems. then we notice the floors were slopping at the back of the house. We found our drian pipe had crack and allow water to build up. For how long this was going on I don't know. We had it fix and then I call my insurance company and the first thing was said the land is moving. I don't agree,I feel it was caused by the water. Can you tell me how long can a house be built before any signs of movement shows up. I would think between 1-10 years not 28 years later.Thanks for any response. Jeff
Betty Ehinger
04 Nov 2008, 11:24
This summer we had what was called a wind sheer blow a red pine tree onto our house. The tree snapped off about 20 feet above ground. The roof and several rafters were damaged. We also noticed cracks in a straight line in the mortar in our cement block basement wall about halfway down the wall below where the tree hit. Some of the mortar has broken loose. There is also a driveway along side the house and we have clay soil. The house is about fifty years old. How do you tell if these are simply settling cracks or cracks caused by the impact of the tree hitting the house?
Shelli Holleran
11 Nov 2008, 16:06
Hello...
I have a very old house. It was built in the 1920's. It currently has a stucco finish on the bottom half and Vinal Siding on the top half. We noticed that the front porch is a bit uneven and slants to the right( if you are standing on the porch looking at the street ) But our main concern are cracks in the stucco on the outside rear left corner ( if again you are standing on the porch looking at the street)

Should we look into having the house "Jacked up"? The cracks have gotten worse every year. and this is the 12th year we have lived here.

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