Continuous Attic Ventilation

By Tim Carter
©1993-2009 Tim Carter

Summary: Continuous ventilation is extremely important to avoid roof rot, reduce heating and cooling costs, and to maintain warranties of some asphalt shingles. Why was attic ventilation never an issue in older homes? Building practices have changed. If you are building new or updating an older home, give your home "lungs" to breathe through air exchange in roof or ridge vents and soffit vents.

I'll never forget that day as long as I live. It was a typical late July day here in the Midwest. I was in the midst of a remodeling job that was running slightly (right, give me a break!) behind schedule (typical). Anyway, I had to cut a hole in a roof to extend a new plumbing vent stack out to the atmosphere. For some reason, I waited until after lunch to tackle this project. What a mistake!

I poked my head above the scuttle hole. Immediately I was enveloped by hot air. I mean really hot air. It was difficult to breathe and within a period of 30 seconds I began to perspire profusely. This particular house had no attic ventilation. The air was stagnant. It took 15 minutes to complete my task. Those 15 minutes seemed like 3 hours.

I would have sworn that it was 150 degrees F or better in that attic. The homeowner happened to have a highly accurate thermometer which we used to check it out. It turned out I was wrong. It was only 134 degrees F.

Why no Ventilation Fifty Years Ago?

That's a very good question. If you are a student of older housing, you will notice that older homes rarely incorporated ventilation as a part of the roofing system. Occasionally you would see tiny gable end vents. I don't know of one old house I have ever worked on that had any form of soffit or eave ventilation.

Ventilation of homes began in earnest during the 1970's. This coincided with the increased efficiency of doors, windows and vapor barriers. We simply began to build tighter houses.

Prior to the 1970's, houses used to breathe (lose energy) very easily. Who hasn't been in a drafty old home?? Energy costs were lower. It didn't seem to matter that the old gas conversion furnace was only 45 to 50 percent efficient. Old double hung windows had no weatherstripping. Many old houses had no insulation. Air could move freely between the inside and outside of these old houses. We actually were ventilating old houses quite well. However, we found out that it was expensive!

Times changed. The energy crisis of the mid-70's shocked us into reality. Windows and doors began to be built using very good weatherstripping. Insulation and vapor barriers were applied to outside walls. Within the past 15 years entire houses have been 'wrapped' with air infiltration barriers. All of those previous paths for air exchange have been blocked. Within a matter of years, problems began to develop with houses that were suffocating. None of these problems had ever been seen before.

Old vs. New

Thousands of other people have experienced the hot attic temperatures that I encountered on that hot July afternoon. Old houses have always had the same problem. However, because air conditioning has only been around for the past 40 years or so, hot attics were simply accepted.

The same is true for older houses in colder climates. These houses rarely experienced any attic problems in the winter months. If you are building a new home or are improving and upgrading an existing older home, you can expect trouble if you do not provide adequate ventilation for your attic.

Last Chance for Air

Unless you have a state of the art air exchanger, attic areas of today's house's are the only place where air can be exchanged with outside air. It is here that today's houses must breathe. This is one of the reasons continuous attic ventilation is so important.

There are lots of other reasons why ventilation is important. Continuous ventilation helps to reduce cooling costs, validates the warranties of some asphalt shingles, reduces heating costs in colder climates, reduces chances of moisture buildup in attics, etc. Trust me, continuous attic ventilation is the only way to go.

Continuous Ventilation

If you are not familiar with building or remodeling, you might be easily confused with continuous ventilation. Older homes, and even many modern homes have used different types of vents to exhaust air from attics. A common form is the triangular gable end vents found in many older homes.

Many people have metal 'pot' vents on their roofs. These vents simply cover holes cut into the roof.

Continuous ventilation products are different. These products began to hit the market approximately 15 to 20 years ago. The first ones were metal contraptions that replaced the cap shingles at the top ridge of your roof. Besides being unattractive, they often leaked.

In addition to the ridge vents, a continuous metal strip was often (and still is) placed in the soffit or under eave area to provide a place for fresh air to enter the roof. These strips of metal would run from one end of the soffit to the other in a continuous fashion, just like the ridge vent. Is it a little clearer now?



Comments:

kerry morris
02 Jan 2008, 16:47
what is the best way to ventilate my attic space when i can not use the soffits? older home and soffits are on angle with little surface area.
AsktheBuilder
02 Jan 2008, 17:55
Kerry,
I would start by reading all of my Ventilation columns.
Larry Wilder
29 Jun 2008, 05:41
With continuous roofing ventilation on the peak and the soffits, are any attic fans or louvers necessary?
AsktheBuilder
29 Jun 2008, 07:16
Larry,

Over the years I have changed my opinion about continuous ridge vents. They are not the silver bullet. You need turbine vents as well as soffit vents. The bottom line is that it is impossible to have too much attic ventilation. Read my Ventilation category columns - all of them - to get a feel for how hard it is to cool down an attic. And if you live in a cold climate, you really need to have air moving through an attic to exhaust humid air.
Joel
19 Aug 2008, 10:32
I have a bran new home with central air and air exchanger. I was wondering why the builders of this home did not install turbine vents? in fact I see no vents at all. Should I put some in?
Dee
28 Aug 2008, 16:58
We have ridge vents and soffits with two to three feet of snow on the roof during the winter months with ice dam problems. Are the ridge vents effective with that much snow? Should we consider a turbine fan.
Bob
03 Sep 2008, 15:38
We have a mold and mildew problem on our house that seems concentrated under the large overhangs. It is an old house (1910) with no attic ventilation. Will soffits and roof vents provide a significant benefit in preventing mold and mildew or is the primary benefit in the extended life of the roof?
Dan
13 Jan 2009, 13:27
I live in an older home and for the last couple of years the windows have been steaming up really bad in the winter. It seems like it happened after I installed new vinal siding. I do have roof vents and gable end vents. I am afraid to buy new windows because the same thing could happen. There is insulation in the attic but not in the walls as I know of. Can you give me any suggestions? thanks
josephsalikin
11 Mar 2009, 00:32
My son has an older house which he added a 20ft by 24ft addition. He also has a cement blk. chiminey with a clay flue liner inside it. Also has aluminun soffit vents on the outer side of the roof and one 16 by 16 inch vent at one end of the outside wall, but there isn't a vent on the outside wall, in the attic ,of the old and new addition, Mold and mildew is forming on the attic side of the plywood roof. Would a installation of a vent, on the new end wall, in the attic solve this problem , or putting a electric fan in the attic. Someone suggested that maybe there is a crack in the chimney flue allowing too much heat to build up, but there is no smoke escaping and the woodburning stove work well. Thanks joseph
Ken
22 Apr 2009, 00:23
I have a house built in 1988, which has two gable vents and a single roof vent. There are only TWO eave vents on one side of the house - the other side has NONE. There are 2x4s between the roof joists - should I just hammer those out and install eave vents?

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