Concrete Patching, Additives & Epoxies
Related Articles: Concrete Repair - Patching, Concrete Crack Repair Tips, Concrete Repair Products
Expensive Stuff
Concrete is made from basic, inexpensive raw materials. However, transportation and placement of these materials is costly and labor intensive. Because of its high cost and durability, people expect concrete to last for a long time. This is not an unreasonable expectation, as I have seen concrete 50 plus years old that is in very good shape.
But sometimes things go wrong. Your concrete drive, sidewalk or patio may experience a popout (depression caused by a piece of stone that explodes for numerous reasons). Those living in cold climates may experience spalling, a condition where the top surface of the concrete peels off. A corner of a concrete step may crack and fall off due to a handrail post expanding (rust and/or freezing expansion). In any event, a patch can be employed rather than replacing an entire segment of the concrete.
Challenging Task
I have seen numerous attempts at patching concrete. The majority of them have failed miserably. There are many reasons for patch failure. I'll try to cover some of the most persistent causes.
Concrete, in its original form (when first mixed) sticks together because of the cement. When the cement is mixed with water, a chemical reaction begins that is really pretty neat. Very small crystals begin to grow. These crystals interlock with one another and lock onto the pieces of clean sand and gravel. Also, when concrete is mixed, there is usually lots of extra water around to help keep the crystals growing. And grow they do, as the crystal growth slows down but can continue for years.
However, when patching, these two conditions are not always present. The area to be patched may be dirty and bone dry! If this is the case, there is a great chance that the patch will fail.
Water, water everywhere...
Remember when I spoke above of the growing crystals? The same thing happens, to a large degree, with many concrete patching compounds. They also need water for their crystals to grow.
Many people forget that concrete can and does absorb water. You can demonstrate this easily by getting on your hands and knees. Do this and place a drop of water on a piece of concrete. Observe what happens. The water, in almost all cases, readily soaks into the concrete surface.
When you place water based patching compounds on dry concrete, the concrete robs the water from the patching compound. No water, no crystals. No crystals, no bond. It is that simple.
Dirt also gets in the way as well. If dirt blocks the crystals from bonding to the concrete to be patched, all that happens is that the crystals bond to the dirt, not the old concrete.
Additives / Bonding Agents
To improve the chances of a patch sticking to old concrete, there are two categories of materials that you should consider. One category is additives and the other is bonding agents. They work towards the same goal, but they do it very differently.
Additives are chemicals or compounds such as rubber, vinyls, acrylics and different polymers that are sometimes added to portland cement mixtures. All they do is simply make the concrete mixture stickier. These compounds can be in a dry form premixed with a patching compound, or a wet milky liquid that you add to your patching compound. In either case, they work quite well when applied to a clean surface.
When using concrete patching compounds that contain additives, be sure to follow the instructions carefully. Some of these compounds must be applied to dry concrete surfaces, while others instruct you to wet the area to be patched. You must pay attention!
Bonding agents are glues that are applied to the old or damaged concrete surface that is going to receive the patch. These are almost always liquid compounds that you simply brush onto the clean, dust free area to be patched.
Once again, you must follow directions to the letter to achieve the best results. It is possible to use both compounds to maximize your chances of success. In other words, you can purchase a patching compound that contains additives - these are usually labeled as containing vinyl or acrylic,etc. - and use it in conjunction with a bonding agent. Always check the labeling to make sure the materials are compatible.
Epoxies
If you really want to go all out on your patching project, consider epoxies. These are no different than regular epoxy. You simply mix equal parts of a resin and a hardener together, often with a sand aggregate. You apply it and BINGO, super patch! The problem with some epoxies however, is coloration. You may not be really excited about the finished color. Some are white, beige, and very light grey. In contrast, regular Portland cement patching compounds dry to a medium grey.
The Old Stand By
Guess what? You can use just plain cement, sand and sometimes pea gravel to patch that hole. If done properly (50 percent cement - 50 percent sand and/or gravel), your patch will perform just fine.
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Comments:Welcome! I, Tim
Carter, don't answer questions
here. If you post a question here in the Comments Area,
perhaps another visitor will help you. You need to go to the Ask
Tim page if you want a question answered. Once there, look
closely at how many weeks behind we are. Please be patient as you use
this free service. If you have an emergency and need to talk to me,
there is an option there for you.
JAMES L. PINETTE 14 Apr 2008, 08:35
thanks
Val 14 May 2008, 22:35
I just poured a patio with another yestaerday and found out there is a
slight duck pond that he left in the patio.About a 3x3 area.Whats the best
way to get rid of the duck pond and get the same color finish as the rest
of it.
Lorraine 17 Aug 2008, 11:44
Hi Tim,
I am needig to repair a natural rock reatining wall. It has had many repairs befoe but the patches do not last long. I now know thanks to you about wetting the rocks, thank you. I don't know what type of cement or additive to use though. I live In New England so the weather is always a factor. I also have been removing the massive amounts of moss from these walls and wonder if I should treat the rock with something to prevent moss? I used Quikrete last time, and the patches fell out. Thanks, Lorraine
Thomas Goulde 05 May 2009, 13:32
I have a concrete walkway in which the builder embedded slates in the
surface. These can be very slippery in wet weather. I want to chisel-out
the slate and fill the indentations with exposed aggregate to improve
traction. As the indentations are only as deep as the slate is thick what
bonding product is recommended?It would be good if the exposed aggregate
patches match exposed aggregate new work - there are sections of this
walkway that need to replace in toto.
Carrie Nichols 14 Dec 2009, 09:31
My roofing crew gouged a line in someones exposed driveway with the
trailer. I hired a driveway company to repair it and they made it look
worse. The bought some black stuff in a tube... put it in the crack and
then put rocks and sand in it. Looked great when they got done but the new
day the rocks and sand came off and now its just black. It was cold that
day... is that why? Could you tell me how to fix it myself. Please
Garry 05 Feb 2010, 10:09
I would like to know how to pour concrete on a existing concrete trench to
slope it for drainage. It would have to be a thin layer of about 2 inches.
the existing trench is not sloped.
Thanmk you, Garry
Laura 28 Jun 2010, 11:48
I have cracks in my basement at the base of the wall/foundation and water
gushes in with heavy rainfalls. I chiseled out near the wall to investigate
and see that there is a cavity (probably from the ongoing water coming in
for years). Would you suggest hydraulic cement or epoxy to repair this? I
heard epoxy is stronger and won't allow water to seep through, but my
basement is always damp and I feel it may never dry out enough to use epoxy
(it is 6 feet below ground and in Chicago with high water table as I'm not
far from the lake). If I do use hydraulic cement, I guess I'd probably
have to chisel out enough of the floor to access the gap to pack it in
tightly or are there any injectable containers for tight areas?
Thanks
The Concrete Guru 19 Oct 2010, 16:30
Laura: Get on a website www.xypex.com.
Find the local distributor in your area and ask him about a product called Patch and Plug. That is probably what would work the best for you. Carrie Nichols: Go to your local Construction Contractor Supply Store (like Whitecap) and purchase a material called Ardex. The sales rep should be able to help you get the right product for your application, however, you will probably want the Ardex pmaterial that is used for a gray, exterior patching application. TCG
Doug MacGregor 04 Dec 2010, 17:42
I have a 22 year-old foundation wall that I have been using as a dog run.
The steel fence posts were embedded into the 8-inch concrete wall when it
was poured.
I want to build a room on this foundation (6 feet deep) and I will be cutting off the posts. the problem is that the top of the wall has been exposed to the weather here in Ottawa, Canada and is not perfectly smooth and flat. And one side is actually depressed slightly because of the way we set the middle post into the concrete (we didn't level it out after inserting the post). The wall slopes to the mid-point from either corner by about one-half to three-quarters of and inch. My question is what can I use to both smooth out the top of the walls and at the same time level out the one wall that is depressed. The structure is 3-sided with the fourth side attached to the existing house and is 11 feet square. Thank you. View all comments |


