Ceramic Tile

By Tim Carter
©1993-2009 Tim Carter

Summary: While some ceramic tiles are tough, others are soft. Know which tile is the right one for your project. Be sure the surface beneath the tiles is strong and inflexible.

Ceramic wall and floor tile continues to grab the attention of people who build new homes. It is not surprising when you take the time to visit a real business that sells nothing but ceramic tile. The seemingly unlimited colors, patterns, textures and sizes of ceramic tile allow just about anyone to incorporate this man-made stone product into just about any room of their home.

Although ceramic tile is durable in many respects, keep in mind that all ceramic tile is not created equal. Virtually every ceramic tile product is simply refined clay that has been baked in a kiln. A kiln is a large oven that bakes the soft clay tiles at a high temperature for a given amount of time. Depending upon the chemical composition of the clay, the amount of baking time and the baking temperature, you can have tiles that can withstand countless days outdoors in freezing weather or tiles that are relatively soft.

Knowing this, don't limit yourself to thinking that tile can just be used indoors. It is an ideal patio covering. I have used it for decorative front porch stoops. You can permanently adhere tile to pre-cast concrete walking pads to create stunning garden stepping stones.

But if you do decide to use ceramic tile outdoors, be sure these tiles also meet slip-resistance minimum requirements. Super-smooth glazed tile that gets wet from dew or rainfall can be dangerously slippery. Top-quality tile manufactures make special outdoor tile that has a very slightly gritty surface even though the tile is glazed. The invisible grit provides superb traction when tiles become wet for any reason. When you start to decide upon outdoor tile, talk to the salesperson and compare the slip resistance of tiles in the store when they are wet.


If you're putting ceramic tile in your home, check out my Ceramic Tile Installation Checklist to learn exactly what you should know about the process. Avoid making costly mistakes with the help of this document. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

Not only is the correct tile important, but so is the substrate to which it is applied. When applying tile indoors, you need to make sure it is attached to surfaces that will not move nor flex. Tile is very strong when you squeeze or compress it, but it is weak if you attempt to bend or pull it. Concrete is an excellent tile substrate if done right as it can be very strong and crack resistant.

Years ago, ceramic tile craftsman applied tile directly to concrete substrate they created by applying cement stucco to a wire mesh fabric nailed to the wall studs. This is very labor intensive so now it makes better sense to nail or screw concrete board to wall studs. Concrete board is an excellent material as it does not deteriorate when it gets wet. If you use a substitute material, make sure it is 100 percent waterproof. Moisture resistant drywall (green board) is not waterproof, it is water resistant.

Floor tile years ago was also applied over concrete. Tile setters would chisel off the edges of floor joists to create a point. Blocking and small wood pieces would be then added in between the floor joists so the tile setters could pour a solid concrete base that was three inches thick in between joists and perhaps three quarters to one inch thick as it passed over the point of the joists. This solid base created a large bed of concrete that simply did not flex.

You can nail or screw cement board to wood subflooring, but you must be sure the floor joists are stiff enough not to flex. If they have too much flex, the tile will crack and the grout between tiles will crumble in a short amount of time.

Outdoor tile needs to be installed over concrete slabs that will not crack or separate. This can be easily achieved if the concrete slabs are a minimum of five inches thick and reinforced with one half inch thick steel reinforcing bars that are placed two feet on center in both directions. These steel rods should be in the middle of the slab so they are completely surrounded by the wet concrete.


Restore the "clean" to your grout. Just go to CLEANGROUTNOW to see the beautiful, quick results.

Permanently bonding the tile to the substrate is vital. I prefer to use thinset for this task. Thinset is powdered cement with some fine silica sand mixed in. It can also contain powdered acrylic resins that increase the bonding characteristics of the thinset. Mix only as much thinset as you can trowel onto the substrate in 45 minutes. Once troweled onto the substrate, the tile should be placed in the wet thinset within five minutes. If you wait much longer, the thinset develops a skin that interferes with the bonding.



Comments:

Barry Sergent
04 Dec 2007, 21:05
Is using chip board or particle board as a substrate for around a spar bath a good idea the spa sits out from the wall 1 tile wide the tiles also slope back to the wall and are only grouted and have no silicone between the two ajoining tiles at the wall hence bad leaking at all the joints should this have had some thing like JH tile and slate underlay as the substrate and surely sloped away from the walls and those joints against the wall should have a flexible joint not rely on grout which is porous and has cracked

Kindest Regards
Jerrelyn Jackson
25 Mar 2008, 21:27
HI,
Our congregation is building a church and we want to put ceramic tile under the church pews. Is there anything we can put on the bottom of the pews to keep them from sliding on the tile. HELP!
AsktheBuilder
26 Mar 2008, 20:03
Jerrelyn,
You bet. Cut strips of rubber roofing or rubber mats and secure to the bottom of the pews. Try this on one and test it.
Mike
06 Apr 2008, 10:06
Hi -

Currently by our pool we have Cool Deck with drainage channels. We are considering putting outdoor tile over this area. Do we need additional drainage or is the existing draining usable by simply not tiling over this? Appreciate any advice you can offer. Thanks
AsktheBuilder
09 Apr 2008, 19:38
Mike,
Do not tile over the drains.
Kathleen
29 May 2008, 21:07
I want to build an in-law suite in RI and will close it down during the winter. Will any tile or plaster that I use crack during freezing winters? I want to drain all the water lines and pipes and not heat the addition while we are not here in the winter. What issues to do I have to take into consideration?

I'd appreciate your help. Thanks.
Gordon Findlow
02 Jun 2008, 13:48
I have flagstones on my patio,I painted them, paint coming off, looks horrible,want to put terraccota tiles,or some type of tile, or decking on top them, best advise please,and cheapest option.
thanks
Gordon Findlow
Tracy
22 Jul 2008, 22:26
I'm wanting to put tile on my front sidwalk outside. The sidewalk is concrete with one minor crack. What is the best preparation that can be done. I'm not sure if I need to put a subtrate flooring down like backer board on an outside installation. Thanks in advance!
Dale
04 Aug 2008, 15:31
I have most of my bathroom in ceramic tile, floor, half the wall, and the shower we are going south this winter and will have a plumber winterize our house but I am wondering how my tile and dry wall will be. Hope to hear from you .
Ken
05 Feb 2009, 16:22
I want to create a vintage pattern with 3/4" square unglazed porcelain tiles for my entry outdoors. There are professionals who offer custom designs but the lead time is too long. I can only find these tiles being sold in expensive, tiny quantities at craft stores. I've been searching the web all day to find a better retail source but I haven't had any luck. Can anyone help me? I realize they would most likely be sold on 12" X 12" sheet. That's OK, I can work with that.

Thanks.

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