There is an old saying that talks about how good fences make good or great
neighbors. This is so true as a fence that is placed where it should be clearly
defines and outlines the property the fence is surrounding. I have a fence along
part of my north property line and believe me, it has come in handy on more than
one occasion. Fortunately, my neighbor loves the fence and both she and my wife
use this graceful wood fence as a backdrop for plants.
If you decide you want a fence, the first thing you must do is some research.
Start with your local zoning officials to see if fences are permitted and if so,
what if any requirements there are with respect to height, type, style and
position. The zoning restrictions concerning fences in my town and its suburbs
are as plentiful as ticket scalpers at a Cubs game. You should also check your
deed or other paperwork you received at your closing. You just might find other
neighborhood or sub-division restrictions regarding fences.
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| There are four types of fences visible in this picture - chain link, picket, split rail and a privacy fence in the distance. PHOTO CREDIT: Roger Henthorn |
Once you have been cleared for construction, you now need to verify where
your property line is. If you don't have accurate property pins in place from a
recent survey, I suggest you invest in a survey. The price of the survey is well
worth it, especially if you take great care to mark and preserve the corner pins
the surveyor will drive into the ground. These markers can be used to settle
property line disputes in the future and they will be very helpful when you go
to sell your home.
Once you know what you can legally build and where to place the actual fence,
it is time to select a material. There are countless materials and styles. You
may want chain link, wrought iron, vinyl or wood fencing. My wife and I settled
on a Victorian wood fence style that goes very well with our Queen Anne
Victorian home. Cedar and traditional treated lumber were the woods I chose to
use. I could just as easily have gone with redwood and even locust as they both
contain great built-in preservatives to combat wood rot.
If you are going to use treated lumber for the posts and horizontal rails of
your fence as I did and you are going to paint your fence, I suggest you get the
lumber months ahead of time and stack it in your garage so it can air dry. Be
sure to use small sticks between the layers so that air can circulate around
each piece. Store the lumber flat and do not let the sun hit it. Often treated
lumber has excessive amounts of moisture in it from the treating process. If
this moisture is covered by paint, peeling and blistering of the fresh new paint
in a few weeks or months is a real possibility.
If you really desire your paint job to stand the test of time, you should
precut all or many of the actual pieces of wood that will be used to build the
fence. I did this when I built my fence. I then pre-painted each piece of wood
on all sides, surfaces and edges making sure to use the correct primer for the
paint as called for by the top or finish coat paint manufacturer. If I were
rebuilding my fence today, I would use an exterior paint that contains both
urethane and acrylic resins. This paint has the best holding power and will last
possibly 10 - 15 years without failure.
The nails, screws and bolts you use to secure all of the wood to one another
is very important. Use only the highest double hot-dipped galvanized or
stainless steel fasteners. These will not rust. If you use inferior fasteners,
not only can the fence fall apart over time, but your paint job might start to
develop unsightly rust spots in short order.
Before you start the actual construction of the fence, be sure you
determine if there are any buried wires, pipes, cables, gas lines, etc. where
you will be digging. Striking a high-voltage electric line with a sharp
post hole digger can be a religious experience, if you know what I mean.
