Wallpaper Installation Tips

The art and technique of successfully hanging wallpaper can't possibly be covered on this page. I am going to try to cover some very important points. I recommend that you refer to the books listed in this linked column for expanded information.

If you are a rookie or in doubt of how to hang paper, I suggest you start in a small room with an inexpensive paper. Go ahead and experiment like I did. You might get lucky!

Backrolling

Backrolling a roll of paper performs two important functions. It allows you to inspect the paper for printing or color flaws. It also works to get the curl out of the paper. Do it with every roll!

Click here to watch Tim's video on wallpaper installation.

Dye Lots

ALWAYS make sure that each roll is from the same run or dye lot. If not, you will have problems, trust me!

Layout the Paper - Keeping Waste to a Minimum

Before you break out the adhesive, you need to figure out how the paper is going to work on the wall. For example, your paper may have a dominant feature in the pattern. You don't want this feature sliced in half by the ceiling or a chair rail. Also, seam placement is critical. You don't want a floor to ceiling seam to be along side a door frame casing. The casing could be out of plumb. It's best to let the paper go over the casing about 1 inch so the seam is above or on top of the head piece of casing.

Plumb & Level

If you are fortunate to have level or nearly level ceilings, your paper's seams must be plumb. If not, the pattern will climb or fall across the ceiling. When making the plumb line, make the actual line 1/16th of an inch away from where you actually want it to be. Never place a seam on the plumb line. It will show through (especially if the paper background is white)! Avoid using chalk lines. The chalk will, in some cases, bleed through the paper backing!

Prepasted Papers

Prepasted wallpapers work well when you do certain things. Activate the adhesive with lukewarm water. The paper usually only needs to be immersed for about 10 seconds. The paper must relax just like ordinary paper. This may take 5 - 10 minutes. This relaxation period allows the paper to fully expand. If you do not allow the paper to expand on the table, it will do so on the walls! The result are long vertical blisters that often cannot be removed. Have a helper handy. The helper can be cutting your paper and activating the glue while you hang. This way a 'relaxed' piece is ready to go as soon as you are. This is what my wife Kathy did for me years ago. I just didn't know it was right at the time! Plus, I didn't know all the fancy wallpapering words.