Connect Wires Light Fixture Video
What Happens if You Wire a Light Fixture WRONG!
Did you discover something in this video that prevented you from getting ELECTROCUTED? How about buying me a mocha-chip ice cream cone as a favor?
Tim Carter demonstrates how to connect wires to a simple light fixture. Tim received an email on this video FIVE years after it first was published. Read the latest in the September 2, 2019 AsktheBuilder Newsletter. The first mention of this column was in the September 19, 2014 AsktheBuilder Weekend Warrior.
Brass Screw = HOT Wire
Simple light fixtures that you find in basements and garages usually have different colored screws where you attach the wires.
You want to put the HOT black wire on the brass screw and the neutral white wire on the silver screw.
If you do it backwards, you'll energize the threads inside the socket and if you touch the threads on the bulb as you screw it in, you could get ZAPPED!
Silver Screw = White Neutral Wire
Put the white neutral wire on the silver screw.
Ground Wire = Green Screw
Put the bare ground wire on the green screw. If no green screw, attach it to the box if it's metal. If it's a plastic box, just tuck it back into the box away from the fixture screws to prevent a short.
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Fixtures With Wire Leads
If you have a light fixture that has short wires that are part of it, connect them this way:
- Black to black
- White to white
- Green to bare copper ground wire
Have you tried the 4' LED Fluorescent tube replacements?
No. I had 8-foot bulbs and the contacts at each end were the old style. Plus I had the wrong ballasts. Too much work to retrofit. Easier and CHEAPER to just put up what I did.
What do you do with that third wire that is not attached to the socket?
While you're in there switching out a fixture or installing a new one, what about checking with a voltage detector that the black wire *is* indeed the hot wire? I've done a lot of lighting swaps, and I've found white as hot more than once, not just on lights but on plug-in sockets as well. For a single-pole switch, this should never be the case if it was done right, but don't bet your life on "never".
The third (bare) wire is the ground. On a metal fixture, there would be a grounding screw (often green) that you attach this wire to. On this one, it wouldn't be attached to anything; just coil it back into the box behind the fixture, making sure it's not going to touch the bare ends/connections of the others.
(I've seen these ground wires cut shorter to get them out of the way, but I'm reluctant to do that because the next guy might swap out this fixture for a metal one later, and he'll need this.)
Good tip, I learned that in 4-H electric probably close to thirty years ago and take it for granted that it comes naturally to me but others would have no idea: Black-Brass BB
Tim may have a better rule, but with a metal junction box, ground the box thus grounding the fixture mounting screws. Also, maybe the following is overkill, but I put a strip of electrical tape over the screws before mounting the fixture. I respect electricity. It can't be seen nor trusted.
As a rule, I always use this thought...
The brass screw is DARKER, attach the BLACK wire,
and the silver screw is LIGHTER, attach the WHITE wire.
Can't resist one more comment. Buy one of those simple and inexpensive two wire circuit testers. Make sure it is one with a pocket clip. The 15 seconds to check for presence of power is well spent. The pocket clip insures it is always available.
Tim,
Thanks for the very clear explaination of what each screw is connected to inside the fixture. I hadn't ever thought of it that way. Makes perfect sense.
I've always assumed Black wires went to Brass screws and White wires went to Bright screws. (It sort of rhymes) I know this isn't always the best way and a circuit tester is the best way, but for me, I don't tackle complex things.
The video, however, explains it well and I didn't see anything schmaltzy at all. Its well presented and I appreciate it.
Hmmm. Now you have me wondering about my table and floor lamps. They don't have polarized plugs.
How about showing us how to use the voltage detector to test for power before connecting. Thanks!
Sure, I can do that.
Why are you telling people to change their old fixtures by themselves? Are you trying to kill someone or burn a house down. Most people have no clue what they are doing when it comes to electricity. Leave it to the professionals!!!
Bill, You're wrong. Usually comments like this indicate the person has a dog in the fight. Are you an electrician worried that you'll soon be out of work? Bah! Seventy-eight percent of people are NOT DIYrs. Plus, if you ARE a pro, do you remember that FIRST DAY ON THE JOB where you didn't know squat about electricity? You received advice from an expert, followed it and I assume you've not burned down too many houses, right?
Good timing posting this tip!
Am about to switch out a bunch of light fixtures.
Love the B=B tip. It's something this old memory can remember.
Tim and other savvy electrical guys, the last post about old floor Lamps without polarized plugs could be addressed with a continuity tester touching either the threads or the copper terminal at the center and a wire where the old plug was before you cut it off in preparation for the safety upgrade, couldn't it? I use a 100 watt equivalent cfl bulb in my reading light but my wife has to gave a 200 watt incandescent built with a mogul base on hers. Do either or both need polarized plugs?
Thanks, it is a valued advise
B and B Black and Brass
Nice job simulating electrocution, Tim. I actually laughed out loud. Did you get that shot in one take. thanks for the tip and the chuckle.
Nickname: One Take Tim