Clutter..... ACCCCKKKK! What a waste of time looking for things or stepping over boxes and cartons of stuff. I have had to do this at my house too many times. I've found the best solution is to build custom shelves that maximize storage space and accommodate the items that I have.

My system is actually one I modified. My wife Kathy and I bought our second home in 1976. I think the house was built in the early 1900's based upon the solid stone foundation. In the basement, a carpenter had built some handy shelving. He used 1x6's and other 3/4 inch material to build the system. It was a brilliant piece of work that allowed me to store heavy tools, boxes of nails and electric motors. I had tried to do this on some prefabricated metal shelving, but the metal shelves bent!

Two to Three Hours and Presto!

If you have any experience with cutting lumber, and you have a few handy tools, you can build my shelf system in less than four hours. The biggest challenge will be attaching the system to a masonry wall. I had to do this in my own basement. To achieve this goal, you will need to rent or borrow a masonry hammer drill with a 1/4 inch drill bit. If you are attaching the shelves to a wood wall, this is a piece of cake!

The Cut List

Let's start out with an easy set of shelves - those that require a minimum of cutting. Your best bet is a shelf system eight feet long. Let's build a system with five shelves all the same depth. Here is the cut lumber list you need just before you start to assemble the system:

• 5 pieces of 1/2 inch plywood 11 7/8 inch wide by 8 feet long

• 5 pieces of 2x2 eight feet long
• 5 pieces of 2x3 eight feet long
• 2 pieces of 2x4 eight feet long

The plywood shelf depth is 1/8 inch less than 11 inches for a reason. This will allow you to get four pieces from a 4 by 8 foot piece of plywood.

The 2x4's will need to be cut, but I can't tell you the height because I don't know how high off the floor your last shelf will be AND I don't know if your basement floor is level.

The Legs

The only difficult part of building the shelves is the final height of the 2x4 vertical legs. Here is how I do it. I install all of the 2x2s on the back wall at predetermined heights. I then build the shelves by attaching the front of the shelf to the 1.5 inch edge of the 2x3 front shelf beam supports. You then take one of the shelves and screw down through the back of the shelf into the top 2x2 wall cleat. I like to put screws every one foot on center. If you have decent coordination, you will not need any help doing this.

It is now time to set your first vertical leg. If you want the top of the 2x4 to be flush with the top shelf (my preference), you need to make sure the 2x4 can stand vertically without hitting the ceiling. If it doesn't, trim it off a little. Take a short level, the 2x4 and stand on a ladder at one end of the shelf. Place the 2x4 so it projects about 16 inches out from the wall down at the floor. Hold it plumb next to the top shelf and use the small level to level the shelf. Since the 2x4 should be higher than the shelf, use a pencil to mark where the shelf passes by the vertical 2x4. Cut it off at this mark and then attach it to the 2x3 front shelf beam using two three inch long drywall screws. Do the same thing for the other end of the shelves. You can't necessarily cut both 2x4 legs the same length since the floor is probably out of level or the top 2x2 might be slightly out of level.

Once both legs are cut and screwed to the top shelf, the rest of the assembly goes lightning fast. Simply level each shelf as you go. A screw gun or a drill with a Phillips head bit in the chuck will make this job very easy.

The Three Inch Rule

I am planning to build additional shelving in my basement. I will modify my design slightly. I want to minimize the amount of air space above the objects on my shelves. In other words, if I want to store gallon paint cans, I want there to be just a 1/2 inch clearance space between the object and the 2x3 front beam of the shelf above.

To achieve this goal, you must keep in mind certain dimensions as you install the back wall 2x2 cleats. Let's say you want to have 10 inches of clearance between the top of a shelf and the 2x3 shelf beam above. To do this, you must install the back wall cleats so that the top of the one cleat is 15 inches higher than the one below! You will loose the three inches in the following way: The shelf itself is 1/2 inch higher than the lower 2x2. The 2x3 beam of the upper shelf hangs down 2.5 inches from the top of the upper 2x2 cleat. 2.5 inches plus 1/2 inch equals 3 inches. Don't forget this rule......!

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Storage Shelves - The Plans

Following are very simple front and side plan views of my storage shelves. The dashed lines you see are telling you that something is hidden behind the object that is at the surface of the paper. Use these plans in conjunction with the 3D views to help you visualize the entire system. Note that the front 2x4 legs do NOT have to extend to the ceiling. They only need to be as high as the top surface of the top shelf.

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3D Shelving Construction Perspectives

Start the project by attaching the 2x2's to the back wall. Don't forget about the Three Inch Rule for clearance purposes!

Simply put, if you want to slide a 12 inch object onto a shelf, the top of the 2x2 support for the shelf above must be 15 inches higher than the shelf where you intend to store the object. The thickness of the shelf and the height of the 2x3 account for the three inch difference. Install the top shelf first once all 2x2's are in place. With the shelf drooping after it has been attached to the 2x2, immediately attach a vertical 2x4 leg at each corner. With the 2x4's in place, the rest of the shelves install in a jiffy! Be sure to level the shelves front to back as you attach them to the vertical 2x4 legs.

I have only drawn three shelves in this 3D perspective view. I did that for the sake of simplicity.

You may only decide to do three shelves or possibly six or seven. I guarantee you that once you build your first set and see how strong they are, you will be building more.

Keep in mind that you can actually place a shelf upside down if you need a curb to restrain balls or other objects. If you decide to do this, be sure to screw the shelf into the 2x3 with two inch long screws at six inch intervals.

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Stuff.... I have WAY too much stuff. In fact, as I write this, I can't even get my vehicles into my garage. Last fall, I salvaged three giant rolls of wall to wall carpet that I intend to use in my basement office and kid's playroom. It is still on the floor of the garage!

There is also a giant pile of woodwork in the center of the garage. We are modifying the interior trim of my house to make it look like an 1890's Victorian farmhouse - the actual exterior architectural style. Add to this, kid's bikes, lawn mowers, table saw, etc. and you can see the problem.

It Was Worse!

When I was still doing construction work on a daily basis, I used to bring home leftover materials and parts from jobs. From past experience, I knew they would come in handy on a future job. Over time, I simply accumulated too much stuff. It got so bad that I couldn't pull my truck into the garage.

Several years ago, I decided to take advantage of my garage's large interior height. The walls of my garage are nearly 11 feet 6 inches tall. I had to build it this tall so that the roof of the garage would not interfere with the adjacent roof over the laundry room. If I had it to do over, I would have built 12 or 14 foot high walls!

Anyway, I constructed in one corner of my garage a wonderful loft that allowed me to take vast quantities of materials, parts, etc. and suspend them up in the air. My loft is nestled in a corner of my garage, although I am planning to extend it along the back wall of the garage much like I have described in the column and this bulletin.

Scads of Space

If you have a garage with only 9 foot high ceilings, you will be able to still make a wonderful loft area. Just look at your current garage and imagine all of the cubic feet of wasted space located over the hoods of your vehicles.

The trick is to place items in the loft that are needed on a seasonal basis. Plan the space so that you don't have to move things back and forth to retrieve something else.

Access to the Loft

I found a wonderful 10 foot long wooden ladder in perfect condition at a garage sale. I use it to access my loft. It just leans up against one end of my loft. I do not have it permanently attached to the loft since I use the ladder for other things. It would be safer if I did attach it, so keep this in mind for your situation.

I would not use a step ladder to access a loft unless the ladder was taller than the loft. Remember, you are not supposed to stand on the top two rungs of a stepladder. They can be come very unstable and you can fall. This situation becomes even worse when you are carrying some large box up or down the ladder. You have your hands full and your center of gravity is now altered! Avoid step ladders for loft access!

Beams and Joists

Most people have built decks before. It is common for the deck joists to be in the same plane as the deck ledger board at the house. In many instances the other end of the joists rest on top of a beam. I don't suggest you do this for a garage loft as it takes away precious inches of head room beneath the beam. Beams can be in the same plane as joists. You simply use joist hangers at each end of the joist!

Keep in mind that there is the possibility for vast amounts of weight in the loft. Use your existing floors in your house as a guideline for joist sizing and spans. If you decide to build a giant loft, consult with a seasoned carpenter or designer to make sure you have the lumber sized correctly.

When you load objects in the loft, keep heavy things towards the back of the loft. This will help to transfer the load to the ledger board and not the front beam. Distribute loads evenly. Try not to concentrate all of the weight in a small section of the loft. Use common sense.

Remember, you can hang rakes, shovels, hand tools etc. from the joists! Be creative!

Fan Mail

Betty and Don M.'s garage loft.

After my column ran in the many papers across the nation, I received a very nice letter from Betty and Don M. in Bellingham, Washington. They read my column each week in the Bellingham Herald. They were kind enough to write to me and tell me about a nearly identical loft that they built in their own home. They commented that the loft is saving them $50 per month in off site storage fees and that they can easily park both cars in the garage. Betty and Don, thanks so much for sharing your photo and story with all of us!

Companion Articles: A Storage Loft in a Garage, Garage Storage - Loft Material List, Floor Plan for Garage Storage Loft

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A Very Simple Structural Floor Plan

The following plan is about as simple as they come. Your mission is simply to build an elevated deck in your garage. The ledger board is the first thing that is installed.

Simply make sure you have it positioned correctly so that the 4x4 posts will not interfere with your cars.

I accomplish this by pulling the vehicle into the garage in its normal position. Use a level and plumb down the sides of the car at its widest point or where the 4x4 posts will be closest to the car. Make marks on the garage floor and then pull the car out of the way. Take a full sheet of plywood and lay it on the floor so that its long 8 foot edge is parallel with the back wall of the garage. Make it overlap the two marks on the floor equally. Project the two 4 foot plywood edges back to the rear wall of the garage and you now know where the ledger board must be. Simply plumb a line up from one of the new marks and this is a starting / ending point for the ledger board. Going through this exercise will keep the platform framing square so it is easy to attach the plywood flooring.

The 4x4 posts can extend to the ceiling but should be secured to the ceiling joists or collar ties or new 2x4 blocking between these existing members.

For a list of materials required for this loft, read the column Garage Storage - Loft Material List.

Companion Articles: A Storage Loft in a Garage, Garage Storage - Loft Material List, Garage Storage Loft

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Garage Storage - Loft Material List

Building my garage storage loft does not require too much material. If you visit a full service lumber yard, they will have everything on the following list. Do NOT use roofing nails to attach the joist hangers to the beams and ledger board. Roofing nails are designed for shingles, not for supporting large amounts of weight. The heads of the nails can pop off and the shafts of the nails can break. You can buy short nails that have a thick shaft and thick head that are meant to take weight. They are specified in the following list.

This is the material list for the garage storage platform shown in the column Floor Plan for Garage Storage Loft. If you build it wider or deeper, you will need to modify the list dramatically. Remember, if the span between the 4x4 posts is more than 8 feet, make the front beam double 2x8's.

The Material List:

• Four 2x6 x 12's - Cut to 6' long for joists

• Three 2x6 x 8's - Ledger and Double Beam
• Two 4x4 x ? - Length depends upon height of your garage
• Two 2x4 x 8's - Blocking material for anchoring top of 4x4 posts
• Four 1/2 inch x 7 inch long carriage bolts with washers and nuts - Use these to attach the beam to the 4x4 posts - two bolts per post.
• Six 3/8 x 5 inch long lag bolts with washers - Use these to attach the ledger board to the rear wall of the garage.
• Twelve single 2x6 Simpson or equivalent metal joist hangers
• 1 small box Simpson or equivalent joist hanger nails
• Two 4' x 8' x 3/4 inch pieces of plywood for loft flooring ( 5/8 or 1/2 inch can be substituted)
• Two Simpson or equivalent 4x4 post bases
• Two 1/2" x 3" expansion stud anchors for post bases
• Two pounds of 8 penny sinker nails - For subfloor attachment
• Two pounds of 16 penny sinker nails - for misc. attachment of joists to beams, beam construction, etc.

Companion Articles: A Storage Loft in a Garage, Floor Plan for Garage Storage Loft, Garage Storage Loft

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What About Cost?

To build the dream garage I have described and illustrated in other articles, it will probably cost you between $35 and $45 per square foot (Actual Costs as of 1999) if you have a contractor do it for you. If you happen to be handy and can do lots of the work yourself, you might be able to get it done for about half of that.

If you do decide to build the garage yourself, you will need at least 6 people to help you tilt up the walls. The garage door wall should be built without the beam in place. It will be very hard to erect as it will be top heavy. Create the pocket for the beam and slide and fasten it in place after the wall is up and braced.

The beam over the garage door will need to be sized by an engineer. Its size depends on what type of trusses you decide to use. If you go with the attic storage trusses, be prepared for a slightly larger beam.

Exterior Surface?

If your budget starts to get tight, give vinyl siding a serious look. Be sure to look at the ones that are multi-colored. When viewed from a distance of 20 or more feet, they will usually fool most people into thinking you covered your garage with expensive cedar or redwood. Buy a siding that has passed the voluntary standards of the Vinyl Institute!

Companion Articles: Dream Garage Has Lots of Room, Dream Garage Illustrations, Ideal Garage Plans & Tips

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