Slate Flooring, It’s Great!

Posted on by Tim Carter

slate flooring
DEAR TIM: It's time for new flooring in our entrance hall. I'm considering slate. Do you think slate would make a good floor? Does it stain easily? Are there any special care requirements? Finally, do you feel that this project can be tackled successfully by serious do-it-yourselfers? A. C.

DEAR A.C.: Is this a trick question? I thought everyone knew that slate makes an exceptional flooring material. In fact, my wife selected a magnificent rectangular random ashlar slate flooring for our entrance hall. We receive compliments about it on a regular basis.

Slate is an extremely durable natural stone product. This durability is a byproduct of its origin. Most rocks have a medium or coarse texture. You can see crystals, fossils, or sand grains. Slate is very smooth, somewhat like plastic laminate. Very small silt and clay particles bonded together under high temperature and pressure give slate this monolithic texture. This ultra fine texture makes it tough for liquids (stains) to penetrate slate.

Three unique characteristics set slate apart from other flooring materials: color, texture and available shapes and sizes. Minerals and impurities in the silt and clays create a wide range of colors in natural slate. You can choose from a dark charcoal black, rust red, greens, grays, maroons, and mottled mixtures of these colors.

The most popular texture for flooring is the natural cleft. This surface is moderately rough giving the slate fantastic slip resistance and a unique one-of-a-kind appearance. Slate can be sanded or honed as well. These two finishes are smoother giving the slate a soft sheen look.

I particularly like the different shapes and sizes that are available. You can purchase slate in several thicknesses, one quarter inch being quite popular. This thickness is similar to many ceramic floor tiles. My entrance hall floor is made up of six different size rectangular pieces which interlock into a random looking pattern. You can also purchase square tiles or random irregular pieces that need to be hand trimmed. Large slabs are available for fireplace surrounds, hearths or stair treads.

Slate is very stain resistant. However, some foods can cause stains. You can purchase penetrating sealers that give slate a beautiful 'wet' look but that do not cause a glossy built up finish. Many people make the mistake of applying heavy waxes or floor finishes that rob the slate of its natural beauty and slip resistance.

I feel that slate can be installed by serious do-it-yourselfers. It is installed in a similar fashion as any ceramic flooring material. However, cutting slate must be done with a standard hacksaw or a wet diamond blade saw. You can't score and crack slate like ceramic tile. Also, grouting slate can be very tedious. The natural cleft face can trap the grout. Often professionals coat the slate with special sealers to make grouting an easier task. Take your time, follow directions, and you will have a gorgeous floor.

Column 105

Computer-Aided Blueprints

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My wife and I are in disagreement concerning plans and blueprints for an upcoming remodeling project. I feel that simple sketches and a strong written contract will be just fine. She wants a full set of blueprints. Can we streamline the planning process? Can we develop our own plans? C. O.

DEAR C.O.: I think you both have made a strong case. In my opinion, you and your wife need to combine your ideas if you desire a successful project. You need a full set of blueprints and a strong written contract. Blueprints or plans reduce your wishes and contractor's promises to a singular graphic document. There is no more effective means of communication than high quality plans.

Many homeowners underestimate the value of the planning process. It is here that project success or failure is determined. If your project is not thoroughly thought out, all sorts of problems may occur during construction. For example, a kitchen cabinet layout may prove to be awkward, room sizes may be too small, building code requirements may be overlooked.

Projects with poor plans almost always come in over budget. Change orders seem to pop up everyday. Developing a full set of blueprints usually exposes these problems. I couldn't agree more concerning a strong written contract. Your contract needs to include all of the language required by your local state or municipality. For example, my city requires specific language in a contract regarding down payment monies and a customer's right to cancel the contract within 3 days after signing. Be sure to include language in your contract that indicates that all work should be performed in accordance with your finished, dated plans. I have coached many homeowners in the early stages of planning.

Often, I suggest that you look through magazines. Cut out pictures that depict design ideas, colors, styles, etc. of what interests you. Paste these pictures on a piece of notebook paper. Make a few quick notes on the pages to remind you of what you like about the photos. Install these pages in a simple 3 ring binder. Use this tool to communicate your thoughts to your builder, architect, or designer.

Five years ago, I would have said that you could probably not develop your own plans. However, the personal computer has changed my thoughts. Many computers that you purchase today will support design software that allows you to create plans, drawings, and sometimes three dimensional views of your project. I have a simple design program that allows me to draw a floorplan, doors, windows, interior walls, fixtures, etc. on my own computer. Many professional builders, architects, and designers have powerful design programs that allow them to create, modify, and view your plan on a large monitor. You can actually walk through your house before it is built. These computer programs are usually too expensive for a homeowner. However, you can purchase affordable design programs that will allow you to experiment on your own.

Use these to develop your own preliminary plans and ideas. Once you feel you have a workable design, have the professional fine tune it.

How would you like me to build your new home? It's probably impossible for me to fit your job into my schedule, but I will gladly share hundreds of my tricks and building secrets with you and your builder. Check out my New House Specifications.

Brick Veneer Leakage

Posted on by Tim Carter
brick veneer leakage

Brick Veneer Leakage | See those vertical mortar joints? Water pours through them in wind-driven rainstorms. A magic sealer can solve the problem. Look BELOW for the one I'd use. (C) Copyright 2020 Tim Carter

Brick Veneer Leakage - The Source: Vertical Head Mortar Joints

DEAR TIM: I'm preparing to have a new home built. I am considering brick veneer. However, I have heard stories about leaks in new brick homes. Is there any truth to these stories? Does it have anything to do with the inexpensive black plastic flashing I see used by many builders? Can you do something to prevent these leaks? N. T.

DEAR N.T.: The horror stories you are hearing are true. Thousands of new homeowners are plagued by leaks in their brick veneer homes. Autopsies performed on these walls usually indicate major deficiencies with the wall flashings. Not only is the material inferior, but also the manner of installation. The flashing material you are talking about is virtually useless.

Related Link:

Brick Leaks - Amazing Clear Sealer Solution Here

Do All Brick Walls Leak?

Brick walls, especially brick veneer (common in residential construction) can and will leak. Water can easily enter a brick wall if the design, construction, materials, and/or maintenance is substandard.

Where Does the Water Leak Through?

Water commonly enters a brick wall between the mortar and the actual brick. When brick mortar is mixed with sand and water, tiny crystals begin to grow. These crystals interlock with the brick. The greater the amount of crystals, the more water-resistant your brick wall will be. If the wet mortar dries too quickly, few crystals will grow. Hot weather conditions, brick which is too dry, or windy weather can cause this to happen.

What is the Best Leak-Proof Mortar?

Modern, premixed mortars can also contribute to water penetration. Some do not have the properties of older mortars. Years ago, brick masons mixed their own mortars on the job site. They used different combinations of Portland cement and lime. Go back to the late 1800s and masons only used hydrated lime and sand for brick mortar. This is the best mortar of all. Lime is a unique ingredient. It reacts over long periods of time with water and carbon dioxide. This process actually can heal tiny cracks through which water tries to enter brickwork.

What Else is Needed to Stop Leaks?

Flashings are required to prevent water from becoming a problem in your new home. These membranes, when properly installed, divert water from the inside of brick walls back to the outside. There are numerous materials that can be used, the more common being plastics, vinyls, copper, and combination flashing. You can also apply a clear solvent-based sealer to help stop leaks after the house is built.

silane siloxane repellant

This is a magnificent silane - siloxane water repellent that soaks into the mortar and brick. CLICK on THIS IMAGE NOW TO ORDER IT.

CLICK or TAP HERE to get FREE QUOTES from local painters that can apply the above sealer.

What is the Best Brick Flashing?

This copper that can be bent with ease and soldered is the best flashing to use with brick. Employ flat-locked seams where two pieces of copper lap over one another. CLICK or TAP HERE to purchase this amazing copper flashing.

flat lock seam

Here are two pieces of copper that are interlocked to make a flat seam. The next step is to hammer them flat and solder them with a fine-tipped butane torch. Copyright 2020 Tim Carter

Where are Flashings Installed?

Flashings must be installed at the base of all walls, beneath window and door sills, and lintels. The flashings must be used in conjunction with weepholes that allow the collected water to exit the brick. Recent studies have shown that vinyl and thin plastic become brittle and fail in as few as 5 to 10 years. Often these same materials are not properly sealed at overlapping joints or at outside and inside corners. Water can pour through these seams and enter your house in as little as 1 month after construction! The combination flashings often made using thin copper or polyethylene and modified asphalts seem to offer a high degree of protection.

Can Mortar Cause Problems?

Mortar must not be allowed to fall behind the wall as it is being built. This can clog the well-placed weep holes. Newer weep hole protection products like Mortar Net WallDefender™ prevent this trouble should you employ a sloppy bricklayer. Consider using them as well.

Construction Photography – Benefits

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I'm about to have some reroofing work performed. I would like to be able to see the condition of my roof boards after the old roofing is removed. However, I am afraid to climb ladders. Do you think it is unreasonable for me to ask the roofers to take pictures of the work they are doing? Do you have any other suggestions concerning construction photography? D. I.

DEAR D.I.: I think your photography idea is fantastic. I have hundreds of photographs that I shot on many of my past jobs. Often these photos saved me money by proving that I performed certain tasks. In your case, they can lessen your anxiety concerning the sound condition of your wood roof deck.

The only problem I see in your case is timing. Often roofers feel the need for speed. They have anxiety about raindrops. You may need to use an instant photography camera. This will allow them to uncover a portion of the roof and immediately photograph it. By the time they climb down the ladder, you will be able to view the photo.

Why not ask them to photograph their work in progress as well. For example, suggest they photograph all flashing details as the roof is being installed. Take close up before and after photographs of chimney flashings. The 'after' photos will tell you how well the flashings were installed. You will be able to see the soldered corners and the fresh mortar in the brickwork.

On full scale new construction or remodeling jobs, photography is a must. These projects allow you to make use of conventional, instant, and video camera photography methods. If you decide to pursue such a project, carry your camera(s) with you each time you visit the job site. Take photos of all walls, floors, window and door installations, and other work in progress.

Consider taking photographs standing at the same spot on a daily or weekly basis. When viewed in sequence it will appear that your house or room addition bloomed like a flower. Use a video camera to capture high energy activity such as the foundation being excavated by heavy equipment. Concrete trucks that spin their drums while pouring the foundation also make for great action shots you may wish to capture.

Photographing all aspects of the job may help provide clues for future problems. For example, what happens if the drywall installers cover a wall plug? Your photos of the walls just prior to drywalling will tell you the exact location of the covered plug. I always took numerous shots of utility and downspout trenches before the dirt was backfilled. By taking numerous photos from different angles, you can locate quite accurately underground pipes at a future date.

Construction photographs, especially those with the date and time imprinted on them, may prove useful in the event of a work slowdown. You can document daily progress, or the lack thereof, with photographs. O.K. say cheese everybody!

 

High-Quality Vapor Retarders

Posted on by Tim Carter
vapor barrier

This is the special vapor barrier that meets the ASTM standard.

DEAR TIM: My room addition is built over a crawl space. The air in our family room always smells musty. The foundation vents are open. The uncovered dirt in the crawl space seems very dry. We have no roof leaks or moisture in the exterior walls. What is causing the smell? O. R.

DEAR O. R.: Do you know the location of all of your teenager's socks? No, seriously, the musty smell in your family room can be traced directly to the uncovered dirt in your crawl space. The dry upper layer of dirt is creating an illusion.

Massive amounts of water are constantly being pulled to the surface beneath your crawl space. This process occurs 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Just below the surface of the dirt, this water turns into water vapor. Water vapor is attracted to warm air. The air in your family room is almost always warmer than the air in your crawl space. The floor insulation and wood flooring do little or nothing to stop the water vapor in its constant pursuit of heat.

The only effective way to stop this water vapor migration is to properly install a high performance vapor barrier. Many builders, remodelers, and homeowners commonly mistake low density polyethylene plastic ( 4 or 6 mil poly) as being a high performance product. This material is often used in crawl spaces, beneath concrete slabs, or as a vapor barrier on exterior walls.

Often this product is manufactured using reprocessed plastic resins, scrap polyethylene, and fillers. The quality is sometimes inconsistent. Certain alkaline chemicals in soils can actually degrade the material. Small pin holes can exist in brand new material.

A better choice might be to use a high density cross laminated polyethylene vapor barrier. These products often are formulated from high quality virgin polyethylene. They are extremely resistant to punctures and tears. The high quality vinyl resists alkaline soils as well. They also do a much better job of stopping water vapor.

Installation of crawl space vapor barriers is not an easy task. All seams must overlap a minimum of 12 inches and be sealed with a special pressure sensitive tape. The vapor barrier must lap up onto the side walls of the crawl space. Here it should be caulked and attached tightly to the side foundation walls. Use three quarter inch furring strips and masonry nails for this job.

All objects (pipes, columns, masonry piers, etc.) that are sprouting from the soil beneath your crawl space require special attention. The vapor barrier must be carefully cut around these objects and sealed with pressure sensitive tape.

Prior to installing the vapor barrier, be sure the soil is smooth and free from all sharp objects. As you work on top of the material installing it, these sharp objects may tear or puncture the vapor barrier. These punctures or tears will allow water vapor to escape into the crawl space.

Author's Notes:

I received this email from Michael P, Cincinnati, OH. Here's how he helped with his crawl space problem.

"I live in Turpin Hills and wanted to thank you for your advice for sealing a crawl space. This is our third winter in our home and the basement is always much colder than previous basements from other homes. I did as you suggested and put heavy duty, thick plastic on the gravel and put doors on the opening of the crawl space. It's been a few weeks and I can see water droplets forming under the plastic. I may put a second layer of plastic for good measure. The basement is warmer and so is the room above the crawl space. I don't smell the mustiness either. Thanks again for the tip."

Smoke Free Masonry Chimneys

Posted on by Tim Carter
wood-burning fireplace

This is my own wood-burning fireplace. The firebox is built to exact standards including the hidden smoke chamber directly behind the wood mantle.

DEAR TIM: My husband and I just moved into a new home with a masonry fireplace. We started a fire and smoke rolled into the room. We checked the chimney for blockages and found none. The damper was wide open as well. What could be the problem? Our fireplace is three feet wide. Is that too small? Can you see anything else in my photos? E.G.

DEAR E. G.: Tell me, did your home construction contract include a strong warranty? You're going to need it. Your photos clearly show several major problems with your fireplace design and construction that are contributing to your smoking problem.

The combustion of wood in a fireplace is very complex. The exhausting of smoke and toxic gases from the fireplace is controlled by three major factors: air pressure, temperature difference between inside and outside air, and the fuel combustion process. Improper design and/or sizing of the firebox, smoke chamber, and your chimney can cause an imbalance which will lead to a smoking fireplace.

Believe it or not, the actual fireplace opening (width and height) controls the size and shape of the firebox, the flue, and the height of the chimney. The width of the fireplace opening controls all other dimensions. This dimension is a function of the size of the room in which the fireplace sits. It is all very complicated. Fortunately, years of trial and error have produced very successful designs and size proportions for smoke free masonry fireplaces.

Several problems are obvious in your photographs. The height of your fireplace opening is too tall in relationship to the 36 inch width of the opening. Furthermore, your firebox appears to be too shallow. This puts the fire too close to the fireplace opening and your room.

Your three foot wide fireplace opening should only be 29 inches tall. The firebox depth should be 16 inches. This depth does not include the thickness of the decorative brick which faces your fireplace. The distance from the floor of the fireplace to the bottom of the damper should be 37 inches. The smoke chamber, the area between the damper and the first flue liner, needs to be a minimum of 27 inches high.

Speaking of flue liners, I think the mason installed one that is too large. In your case, it should have inside dimensions of very nearly 10 inches by 14 inches. Smoke has to push the heavy, cold air up and out of the chimney. An oversize flue liner can make this a difficult process. What's more, my tables indicate that the minimum height for your chimney should be 21.5 feet. That measurement is taken from the top of the last flue liner to the floor of the fireplace.

As much as I hate to say it, I'm afraid that your entire fireplace and chimney need to be reconstructed. The two week process will be long forgotten after the smoke clears.

Interior Doors Changeover Project

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My house was constructed in the early 1960's. The interior is quite plain looking. All of the interior doors are smooth hollow core painted slabs. I was thinking of installing new decorative paneled pre hung doors. However, I hesitate to do this because the frames and door trim are in excellent condition. My doors fit perfectly in each frame. Is there an easy way to simply change out each door? How would you do it? S. T.

DEAR S. T.: Talk about an excellent indoor project for a serious do-it-yourselfer, this is it! The simple process of changing out interior doors can make a dramatic difference on the inside appearance of your home. Many of my past clients were delighted with the look and feel of their new doors.

During the past five years, interior door manufacturers have expanded the styles and options of interior doors. Numerous styles are available that allow you to match virtually any architectural style or time period. Many of the doors can be purchased as solid or hollow core units. Some home center stores have specialized door machines that will actually machine a new door of any style to match your existing doors. If you can locate such a machine, you can change all of your doors in less than a day!

If not, you will need a router, drill, hole saw, spade bit, wood chisel, and various screwdrivers in order to tackle this project. The hard work has already been done by the carpenter or mill that hung your original doors. You simply need to create hinge mortises (recessed slots) and door knob holes in precise locations on the new door. To accomplish this, you are going to use the old door as a template.

Using a pencil, write lightly on each new door its intended location. Now, go through the house and do the same thing on the existing doors. While you are at each existing door, write in bold letters the word TOP on each side of the door. Don't guess where doors go or came from, you will get confused!

Remove an existing door from its frame. Strip the door of its hinges, doorknob, and latch. Stand this door on edge with the old hinge locations pointing up. Slide the new replacement door next to the old door being careful that the top of both doors are pointing in the same direction and flush with one another! Using a square and a sharp pencil, transfer the old hinge locations onto the edge of the new door. Use the hinge to create the shape of the mortise. Adjust the router depth and get to work.

After the hinges are complete, recreate the door knob holes using the same transfer process. However, if you intend to purchase new decorative door knobs let me share a secret. Consider purchasing knobs that have a two and three-quarter inch back set. This is three-eighths of an inch larger than most standard knobs. Your knuckles are less likely to rub against the door frame with this measurement.

Downspout Drain Lines

Posted on by Tim Carter
down spouts downspouts

Drain tiles can stop soil erosion under downspouts. PHOTO CREDIT: Roger Henthorn

DEAR TIM: I purchased some splash blocks to set on the ground immediately below my down spouts. My wife thinks they are useless. I feel that they help divert water away from my foundation and water her gardens at the same time. She thinks that the roof water and my basement sump pump water should be piped away from the house. What do you think? T. E.

DEAR T. E.: Well (no pun intended)... I think I have to side with your wife on this one. The splash blocks are not entirely useless, however. They can effectively control erosion of the soil. The blocks can absorb some of the energy of the moving water before it hits the soil.

Rainwater that drains onto soil near your home is generally not a problem if you have sandy or very well drained soil. However, a large portion of the USA does not have well drained soil. Many of us (including myself) live in regions that have clay rich soils. Clay soils don't always drain that well. Basements and crawlspaces can become indoor swimming pools in periods of heavy rainfall or sustained wet spells.

Many people do not realize just how much rain falls from the sky in a moderate rainfall. For sake of discussion, let's consider a normal ranch house that has an attached two car garage. If the structure measures 30 feet by 66 feet and has a 2 foot roof overhang, there is 2,380 square feet of roof ready and waiting to catch rain drops.

A moderate 1 inch rainfall will generate 1,483 gallons of water on this roof. This water will hit your splash blocks and enter the soil about 30 inches away from your foundation. If your region receives 40 inches of rainfall a year, you will inject about 59,320 gallons of water into your wife's gardens. That might be a little overkill, don't you think?

If your foundation is currently leak proof, your sump probably accepts a good portion of this water. If the sump pump discharge pipe merely dumps the water along side your house, you end up recirculating this same water time and time again. This wastes electricity and leads to premature pump failure.

I feel that your storm water and sump water should be piped away from your house. Some urban areas allow this water to be connected to public storm sewers and water retention basins. If this is not available, pipe the water to the lowest portion of your lot where it would have drained naturally before your house was built.

Consider using SDR 35 or Schedule 40 PVC plumbing drainage pipe for this job. Install 4 inch diameter pipes in all locations. Use 90 degree elbows only at the base of down spouts. Use 45 degree fittings to change direction in all underground work. Before you bury the pipes, take photos of their locations. These will come in useful as your wife's gardens expand.

Column 112

Crawl Space vs. Full Foundation

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My husband and I are having a large (24x18 feet) room addition built. Our house has a full basement. Our builder says the cost to upgrade from a crawl space to a full basement under the room addition is prohibitively expensive. Is this true? How would the two basements be connected? What could be done to waterproof the new foundation? P. A.

DEAR P. A.: I don't know if I necessarily agree with your builder. Yes, there is extra cost involved to turn your proposed crawl space into a basement. However, the added cost to create usable basement space is a worthwhile investment.

From a building standpoint not much has to be done to create this space. Your backhoe is already there to dig for the crawl space. He just needs to stay for an additional 4 - six hours. There is no up charge for the footer. Your foundation walls only need five or so extra feet of height. Add a concrete floor, foundation waterproofing, and an entry opening to this new basement and you are ready to play some ping pong!

I did a quick cost analysis. At current prices (1996) in my city, here is the cost breakdown to achieve the full basement:

  • extra excavation $250
  • extra foundation height $1,650
  • cut opening into old basement $380
  • concrete floor $1,050
  • foundation waterproofing $480

You get a $150 credit for the floor insulation you would have had for your crawl space. The total cost of the upgrade, less profit and overhead, would be $3,660.

That may seem like a large sum of money to many people. However, let's compare the cost of this usable space on a square foot basis. You only need to spend an additional $8.50 per square foot to get a basement. Compare this to the square foot cost of the room above. I'll bet that your contract price for the room addition is very nearly $45,000. If that is the case, you are paying a little more than $100.00 per square foot for the finished room space. The new basement is a huge value.

Many people who have abandoned cisterns have the capability to create similar spaces. In these cases they simply need to empty the cistern and cut an opening from the existing basement into the cistern. A special contractor uses a large water cooled concrete saw to create the opening. This can be done in my city for less than $400.

Your new foundation should be waterproofed if you intend to use it as a living space. Some companies can spray a modified asphalt that contains flexible compounds. Another process involves spraying a liquid rubber compound. Special panels containing an expansive clay can be used as well. All of these processes are designed to bridge or fill a crack in the foundation which may develop at a later date. They must all be used in conjunction with an excellent drain tile and gravel backfill system. Ordinary asphalt coatings are not waterproof. They will not bridge a crack in your foundation.

Hardwood Flooring

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I have a hardwood floor in my home that is approximately six years old. Late each winter, tiny cracks appear between many of the boards. These cracks seem to disappear each summer. Also, I recently hosted a party. The narrow high heeled shoes one of my guests wore created depressions in the wood. Did I get a bad batch of wood? C.K.

DEAR C.K.: I don't think you are going to like my answer. My intuition tells me that your wood flooring is not defective. Your hardwood flooring is responding to seasonal swings in the relative humidity of the air.

Wood is a very interesting building material. It is hygroscopic. This means that when exposed to air, it will pick up or release moisture until it is in equilibrium to the current relative humidity. Anyone who owns white painted cabinetry or paneled doors has probably witnessed this phenomenon. The mitered corners of painted cabinets will develop hair line cracks. Door panels will crack the paint where they fit between the stiles and rails of a door.

To make matters worse, wood does not expand or contract equally in all directions. It moves the least along the grain of a piece of wood. It expands or contracts the greatest amount across the grain of the wood in a direction parallel to the growth rings. It just so happens that a majority of wood is sawn in this fashion. This method of sawing produces the least amount of waste from a log. Dimensional changes of 5 - 15 percent are not out of the question.

AsktheBuilder Podcast

CLICK this image and listen to the first call on the podcast. I talked to Jill about how to repair wood kitchen flooring, and possibly installing an inlay border as an option. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

What do these numbers mean to your oak strip flooring? Some areas of the nation see significant changes in relative humidity from winter to summer. In your state, Minnesota, the moisture content of your hardwood floor can range from 5 percent in the winter months to 10 percent in the summer. That fluctuation in moisture content will cause a single two and one-quarter inch piece of oak flooring to shrink or swell 1/32 of an inch, the thickness of a worn dime.

Don't be fooled by the high quality layers of finish on your flooring. Most floor finishes do a substandard job of blocking water vapor. Not only that, your wood flooring can absorb moisture from its underside. If you want to eliminate this seasonal movement, you must maintain a constant level of humidity within your home.

Installing a new hardwood floor? Use my Hardwood Flooring Installation / Refinishing Checklist to avoid costly mistakes. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

The damage that your flooring received from the high heeled guest is very understandable. Hardwood flooring can be damaged by any concentrated pressure in excess of 1,000 pounds per square inch (PSI). If those high heels had a tip of only one-quarter inch and your guest weighed 130 pounds, each step she took exerted more than 2,000 PSI! Your floor would be in excellent shape had you invited elephants to your party. They only exert 75 PSI with each foot fall.

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