Concrete Stains
Summary: Concrete stains solve the problem of painting concrete to get a great color. Stained concrete can also be re-colored if it has started to fade from wear and tear. To keep the color even you must have a uniform colored concrete surface.
DEAR TIM: I know this sounds crazy but I am bored stiff with my battleship gray concrete drive, concrete block retaining walls, and patio. My father used to paint our basement and garage floors, but peeling paint was a constant problem. Is there some other way to add color to existing concrete and masonry walls? Does it last? Is it easy to install? Beverly G., Fremont, NE
DEAR BEVERLY: I don't think you are crazy at all. I love concrete surfaces but have never been swept off my feet by its gray color. In the past, paint was the weapon of choice for people who simply had to change the color of concrete surfaces. Because paints are for the most part solid films, they are highly susceptible to flaking and peeling. This problem is often caused by water vapor that passes through the concrete slabs and walls and pushes the paint from the surface.
Concrete stains can also be used to re-color previously stained concrete products. 14 years ago I installed a medium brown interlocking brick driveway and sidewalk. Wear and tear and sunlight have caused the colored cement paste at the surface to fade considerably. A deep brown concrete stain will restore these concrete bricks to their original beauty in just one day.
There are different types of concrete stains. Some of them are a mixture of muriatic acid and metallic salts. Other solvent based stains can be purchased that are similar to regular wood stains. You can also buy environmentally friendly water based masonry stains. These stains are primarily water based modified acrylic products. High quality stains will resist hot car tires and virtually anything Mother Nature will throw or dump on them.
Concrete stains have some limitations. Don't expect them to hide surface imperfections or existing stains on your concrete. Many of them are semi-transparent in nature. If you want an even colored finished product, you must have a uniform colored concrete surface. Even with a seemingly perfect even colored concrete slab, you might experience minor color or shading variations. In many respects the finished concrete surface resembles the random look of stained wood. The variations of color actually make the concrete and masonry surfaces look attractive.
If you choose to stain your concrete, you will have to periodically apply additional coats of stain. Sunlight, wear and tear, and the elements will cause the colors to fade with time. Depending upon your location and the amount of shade the concrete receives, you might be able to go 5 years between staining sessions.
The acid based stains are probably the most difficult to work with. All of the stains require that the surface of the concrete be as clean as possible. All oil, dirt, and grease must be removed. A soap and water scrubbing followed by a pressure washer rinse will usually yield a superior surface. The surface temperature of the concrete should be between 45 and 95 degrees F in most cases. This means that spring and fall are the best times to work with these materials. Always follow the specific instructions provided by the manufacturer.
|
|
Comments:
iva 13 Dec 2007, 21:03
i am thinking to have my drive way built. My contractor told me that it is
ok to do under a cold weather, but someone told me that winter time is a
bad time to build concrete.
thanks iva
AsktheBuilder 15 Dec 2007, 11:17
Iva,
I would wait until the threat of any freezing weather is over. Do this job when the temperature range each day is 40-65F.
The Bigbies 05 Jan 2008, 15:27
We are thinking about staining our basement floors. What brand of semi
transparent stain would you recommend?
AsktheBuilder 06 Jan 2008, 08:58
Bigbies,
The most expensive one you can find.
The Bigbies 06 Jan 2008, 14:33
Seriously...we are not familiar with the concrete stain vendors..which
direction would you steer us in should we look at Behr, Sherwin Williams??
we are just confused and looking for some guidance...thanks!!
AsktheBuilder 06 Jan 2008, 14:52
Bigbies,
I *was* serious........ The most expensive stain will almost always have the best ingredients. You need to do a little heavy lifting here.... I can't do it all......
Dan Antes 24 Jan 2008, 06:19
Acid stains for concrete are ridiculously expensive since they contain only
very inexpensive mineral and metal salts. You can get a green from Copper
sulfate in water, a red from ferrous sulfate in water, and an array of
colors from other readily available mineral salts. We used copper sulfate
5lbs in 5 gallons of water to color our fresh garage floor a nice organic
looking red/orange tone and then sealed with cure and seal. Cost for whole
process was $120 including sealer where acid concrete commercial stain
would have been more like $1100. Do a Google search -mineral salts as
stains- and you will get a wealth of information on doing this yourself.
Send me an email and I will reply with a document outlining the procedure
to stain a variety of substrates with mineral salt precipitation process.
Good luck!!!
Dan Antes 24 Jan 2008, 06:25
Any of the below compounds are soluable in water and precipitate a colored
oxide into the surface of concrete after reaction with the alkaline
chemicals in the concrete causing a solid permanent color to be formed.
The following mineral salts and oxides have been used to stain a variety of substrates: barium sulfate, calcium sulfate, cerium III nitrate, cerium III perchlorate, copper II nitrate, copper II acetate, copper II carbonate dihydroxide, copper sulfate, iron II sulfate, iron II perchlorate, iron II chloride, sodium thiosulfate, magnesium thiosulfate, potassium thiosulfate, potassium nitrate, potassium permanganate, silver sulfate, silver perchlorate, silver nitrate, titanium III sulfate, and zinc perchlorate. Other mineral salts that may be used include: aluminum potassium sulfate, molybdenum (VI) oxide, zinc sulfate, copper (II) chloride, nickel perchlorate, nickel sulfate, copper (II) perchlorate, tin (II) sulfate, tin (I) chloride, chromium (III) sulfate, aluminum sulfate, titanium hydride, chromium (III) perchlorate, zinc powder, manganese (II) chloride, aluminum chloride, titanium (IV) chloride, silver chloride, and titanium (II) sulfate.
Julie Taylor 11 Mar 2008, 20:59
I have silver lettiere tile by American Olean on my kitchen floors and
would like to stain them a different color, is that possible. If so what do
I use and how is it done.
Jake 12 Mar 2008, 11:10
I have a concrete floor that has been stained in the lobby of a loft
building. There are cracks in the concrete and they need to be repaired.
Is there a good way to patch these cracks, so that they will not stick out
as much when i stain them to match the floor. Also, the stain is green and
very blotchy and inconsistent. I realize this is probably because the
floor is a structural topping and was not originaly designed to be stained.
Will using a darker green stain make those inconsitencies less noticable?
Any help on this would be great. Thanks
View all comments |


