4 Way Switch
Summary: Wiring a 4 way switch is not as complicated as it seems. The four way switch circuit requires a special 4-way switch and two 3 way switches. Each wire needs to be connected to the proper terminal screw on the light switches.
DEAR TIM: I am pulling my hair out wiring a 4-way switch. What is the secret to 4-way switch wiring? Do you need a special 4-way electrical switch or a 4-way light switch? At this point, my new wife thinks she married a dunce. If you can teach me how to wire a 4-way switch, I will be eternally grateful. If you can't help, I will be forced to admit defeat and will call an electrician. Robert M., Ft. Collins, CO
DEAR ROBERT: Listen, don't beat yourself up too badly. There are many people who are flummoxed by the mysterious 4-way switch. I liken the 4-way switch, and its first cousin the 3-way switch, to the famous Wizard of Oz. Once you slide the curtain, you can see the Wizard is just a person. The same is true for these switches; when I slide away the plaster and drywall, you will see these switches are as simple as grade-school addition.
The first thing you need to know is that the 4-way switch is indeed a very special switch. If you look at a regular single-pole switch that controls a light or series of lights from just one location, you will see it has two screws on it plus the green ground screw. A 3-way switch has one additional screw and a 4-way switch has four screws plus the green grounding screw.
For sake of discussion, I will describe the simplest and most straightforward manner I know how to wire a circuit with a 4-way switch. We would start the job by nailing up three electrical boxes to the wall studs. This circuit will have the mandatory 3-way switches and the single 4-way switch. Let's number the electrical boxes 1, 2 and 3 and make the assumption they would be in a line as if the switches were in a very long hallway.
The number 1 box would be at the one end of the hallway and into it would feed the power from a cable that contains a white neutral wire, a black continuous-hot wire and the bare ground wire. This continuous-hot wire is controlled by a circuit breaker or fuse.
A second cable leaves the number 1 box and proceeds to the number 2 box in the middle of the hallway. This cable has four wires in it; white, black, red and bare copper. A second cable that contains these same four wires leaves the number 2 box and goes to the number 3 box at the far end of the hallway. A final cable leaves the number 3 box and goes to the light fixture we are trying to control. This final cable is like the first one we installed in the number 1 box; it has just a white, black and bare copper wire.
In all three boxes, you connect the white wires to each other with a wire nut. You do the same with the bare copper wires and create a tailpiece of bare copper that connects to the green grounding screw on each switch. In each box you are left with black and red wires. These connect to the terminal screws on the switches.
Since you are just concerned with the 4-way switch, look at the actual switch. Hold it up as if it were in the switch box. You will see two of the screws are on the bottom and two are on the top. In my example, you take the black and red wire from one of the cables and attach them to the bottom screws. It doesn't matter which ones. Then you take the red and black wires from the other cable and attach them to the top screws of the 4-way switch. Once again, it doesn't matter which color wire goes on which screw. Assuming you did not take apart the 3-way switches in your circuit, your 4-way switch will now work perfectly.
You can have many 4-way switches in a circuit. As crazy as this sounds, you could have 10 switches control one light. This circuit would have the mandatory two 3-way switches and eight 4-way switches.
To make any of these circuits work correctly, you must connect the wires to the right screws on the 3-way switches. Look closely at the 3-way switches. They will have a black screw and two brass ones. Connect the black continuous-hot wire in box number 1 and the black wire that goes up to the light fixture in box number 3 to the special black screw on each 3-way switch. The remaining two wires at each box connect to the brass screws on the 3-way switch.
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Comments:
Roger 02 Jan 2008, 17:52
Very well put. Any dummy should have no
trouble wiring this circuit.
eddy 02 Jan 2008, 20:42
hi tim
a video tutorial would be much more informative than just text, come on i know you can make one thanks
AsktheBuilder 03 Jan 2008, 07:47
Eddy,
That video is being taped on 1-6-2008 and should be uploaded within 48 hours.
Ed 03 Jan 2008, 11:03
Simple diagrams or a link to diagrams would enhance the informative
explanation.
AsktheBuilder 03 Jan 2008, 19:19
Ed,
Did you see my response to the comment above yours? There is also a diagram here on my website; it has been here for about 10 years or so.
bill h 13 Jan 2008, 11:42
Tim
I came on here looking for answers for dimmer switches in a 4-way switch scenario. Your explanations have been helpful so far. I installed a 3-way dimmer switch on one of the 3-way switches. Should it work as a dimmer? I can still control the on/off but not the dimming. Can a dimmer be bad but the on/off power still good? Or did I mess something up because the 3-way switches only work when the 4-way is "on". I'm confused
AsktheBuilder 13 Jan 2008, 12:11
Bill,
Did the instructions say if you have to install two dimming 3-way switches? Go to the FAQ on the switch manufacturer's website.
Roger 13 Jan 2008, 15:57
I have yet been unable to get "lighted" 3-way dimmer
switches to work. Does someone out there know the reason for this. ?? I kinda have a hunch that it is because the little bulb has to have a return path to neutral when that switch is in the "OFF" position. One of the lighted 3-way switches will light up only if the other one is in a certain position. The 3-way set up works as it should. Its only the little bulbs in the "OFF" positions seem not to function as I had wished. Awaiting any answers.......
AsktheBuilder 13 Jan 2008, 16:21
Roger,
I would think the manufacturers of these switches would be out of business if they made a product that didn't work. I hate to say this, but it sounds like operator error. Read the instructions again to make sure it is wired correctly.
Tedd 01 Feb 2008, 21:34
I have a 4 way switch that was put in by someone else. He has 14/3 wire
down in the basement in a junction box with the white and red wires wire
nutted together to make the 4-way switch work upstairs the red wire is not
used, down in the junction box but up in the 4-way he has two red wires and
two white wires. So when the 4-way switch is fliped it turns the light on
and off. I put in two seperate 3-way switches upstairs to try and get the
4-way switch to work I brought two seperate 14/3 wire runs into this same
junction box down in the basement from the two 3-way switches I hooked up.
Now comes the problem I cant get the lights to work in sequence like they
should the power supply must be up in the light fixture and the 4-way
switch must be feed from there. Am i missing a wire down in the junction
box or is there a certain way to wire this junction box for this to work.
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