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Load Bearing Wall Identification

DEAR TIM: How can you identify a load bearing wall? I would like to knock down a wall between my kitchen and dining room that is just four feet long. To the best of my knowledge there are no electrical or plumbing lines in the wall. There is a phone line in this short wall. The wall does run perpendicular to the floor joists above and below the wall. What are my options? Tim G., Rochester, NY

DEAR TIM: Bearing walls have a mystic aura all their own. Plaster, drywall and wood paneling finishes that are applied to all interior and exterior walls act as a very effective camouflage in the average residential home. All walls tend to look the same. A cleverly placed bearing wall can be as dangerous as a stealth bomber. Remove one without adequate re-support and all sorts of things may drop down on you.

This wall separates my family room from my breakfast room. You would be shocked to discover the enormous loads concentrated in this wall, even with the doorway and large opening.

This wall separates my family room from my breakfast room. You would be shocked to discover the enormous loads concentrated in this wall, even with the doorway and large opening.

Keep in mind that bearing walls are ones that act as a structural element within a house or home. They typically are carrying and transferring a load from one point to another. In a properly designed home, the loads eventually get transmitted to a foundation, a thickened part of a slab and/or a concrete footer that supports a column or post. Knowing this, you can work up from these elements in the average home and locate many structural elements and bearing walls. But beware, some loads are very well hidden and not all bearing walls are found in the middle of a structure.

The exterior walls on houses that support the roof are primary bearing walls. Not all exterior walls are bearing walls though. There are many houses where just the front and back walls are bearing walls. My home is different. Because I have a hip roof that slopes towards each exterior wall, each of those walls is carrying some roof weight. To make it even more complicated, the second floor of my home has a smaller footprint than the first floor. Some first floor interior walls are actually supporting the main roof of my home. This innocent looking wall with two openings in it is a bearing wall that supports 20 percent of the roof and 33 percent of the second and third floor loads!

Frequently interior walls that run perpendicular to the run of the floor joists above and below are candidates for bearing walls. But there are many a wall such as this in a home that are not bearing any weight whatsoever. If you discover a wall or a beam directly below this wall or parallel with the wall within a short distance, then the suspect wall may be a bearing wall. Bearing walls are not always stacked one on top of another. This is why detection and identification is an exact science.

Don't assume for a moment that your short wall is free of electrical or plumbing lines. It is not uncommon for cables, wires and pipes to run horizontally from an adjacent wall to another wall as they run from one location to another. Trust me, as you begin to strip the drywall or plaster from this wall you could quickly run into a plumbing vent pipe or an electrical wire. I have on occasion discovered abandoned gas lines, heating ducts, return air ducts and even clothes chute pipes in very innocent looking walls. The absence of utility lines and pipes below a wall does not mean they are not present above.

Another surprise one can find in a wall is a column or post. The wall itself may not be a bearing wall but it is hiding a crucial support member. Several years ago I built a light commercial building that has a four inch steel column buried in an unsuspecting interior wall. From all outward appearances each and every interior wall in this building appears to be non-load bearing because the roof structure is all modern trusses. But this particular truss roof was different. It had a giant girder truss that was accepting loads from other trusses. This special truss needed extra support mid-span!

If you desire complete peace of mind, you should hire a professional to make the determination for you. Structural engineers are trained to do this. They are often listed in the Yellow Pages. Often you can get the advice you need for several hundred dollars. To keep the fee to the absolute minimum, remove the drywall or plaster from the wall before the engineer arrives. The fee you will pay will be very small compared to cost to repair structural damage that may result from a hasty demolition party.

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10 Responses to Load Bearing Wall Identification

  1. Hi, I have a question on load bearing walls. I just bought and moved into a townhome and am interested in doing some renovations in the basement. I notice there is a small wall built under an i-beam that runs across the span of the basement to both sides of the house. The wall separates a living room from a large laundry room. I want to make the living room bigger and knock out the wall. Is the i-beam carrying all the weight? Can I remove the wall?

    Thank you!

  2. Hi, i had an extension on the back of the house 10 years ago for an extra room but now i would like to knock the 2 rooms into one which i will have to take the back of the original house out, will that be possible and do i need an engineer and how do i get one of them.

    Kind Regards

  3. Hi Tim,

    I purchased a relatively new home (it is not just about 5 years old) and it came with a 10-year structural warranty. Three weeks ago, I discovered water was seeping down the basement wall and dampened the carpeting. I thought it was a broken pipe (hose bib) but it was not and after removing the drywall they discovered it was a crack in the concrete wall of the basement - the crack is about a foot and a half long and just about a 1/4 inch in width. The warranty defines Structural Defect "as actual physical damage to the designated load-bearing elements of the Home caused by failure of such load-bearing elements which affects their load-bearing functions to the extent that your Home becomes unsafe, unsanitary, or otherwise unlivable." Apparently this warranty only provides coverage for "catastrophic failure of load-bearing elements of your Home." The designated load-bearing elements that are covered under this Structural Defect warranty are:
    1. Footings and Foundation systems;
    2. Beams;
    3. Girders;
    4. Lintels;
    5. Masonry arches;
    6. Columns;
    7. Load-bearing walls and partitions;
    8. Roof framing systems; and
    9. Floor systems

    Examples of elements not covered by this Structural Defect warranty which are deemed NOT to have Structural Defect potential are:
    1. Non-load-bearing partitions and walls;
    2. Wall tile or paper, etc.;
    3. Drywall and plaster;
    4. Flooring and sub-flooring material;
    5. Stucco, brick and stone veneer;
    6. Any type of exterior siding;
    7. Roof shingles, roof tiles, sheathing, and tar paper;
    8. Heating, cooling, ventilating, plumbing, electrical and mechanical systems;
    9. Appliances, fixtures or items of equipment;
    10. Doors, trim, cabinets, hardware, insulation, paint and stain.

    I have not submitted a claim in writing yet but was discussing this on the phone with the warranty company and they indicated that it is likely my claim would be denied since a crack in the basement wall does not constitute a structural defect and not a load-bearing wall. I am wondering why a crack in the basement wall supporting a 4 story townhouse would not be considered a structural defect. What can I say to help further support my claim? What is the point of having a new house with a warranty that does not cover repairs for what I believe was a defect in the foundation and now causing me all of these problems. I appreciate your help!

    April

  4. I came acrosse something I haven't seen before. I have a simple single story bungalow, (1930's built), and it has one main load bearing all dividing the house. It also has a non load bearing wall that i want to remove, (running with beams, and no other support above or below) but i see that that there is a metal plate in the under the floor joist and on top of the ceiling rafters that have a steel cable connecting the two. Is this Cable something structural, I wouldn't call it load bearing since it doesn't hold anything from saging it more creates tension from the joist going up.

  5. Do you think walls that cover up the back opening of your basement staircase can ever be load bearing? Not the sides of the stairs, where the studs are, but a wall across the open space where, if there was another stair below it, you'd walk through to keep going down.

    I'd like to access the space for storage, but when my basement was finished (may have been with the house's construction) the area was walled in. I've seen this area open in other houses I've been in, but here the opening does (or would) open to the middle of the basement, and while the wall's span isn't lengthy, it does run parallel to the I-beam in my basement (although probably 2 feet in front of it). There is a wall underneath the I-beam that forms the bathroom to which the stair's wall is connected, but that wall only runs for about a 1/3 of the basement (unfinished area to one side has no wall under I-beam, other side of basement in finished area is open). However, there could be a steel support pole within the stair's wall--there's one in the unfinished portion, so I assume there's one mirroring it about where the corner of the stairs/finished area is.

    • I'd have to see the stairway and what's going on. Don't forget, you need solid bearing at the BASE of any bearing wall situation. This means the load needs to be transferred, at some point, to the Earth.

  6. Can you give me an idea whether the wall dividing the Great Room from Jr. Master Bedroom in my townhome is load bearing? That wall does NOT continue to the 2nd floor. On the floor above, the wall dividing Bedroom 3 from Bedroom 2 (measured 130 inches) is nearly 1 foot away from the wall below (141 inches) it in question. Just want an idea. Thanks. I tried copying sketch to message but didn't work

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