Waterproofing Foundations

10 responses

  1. Paul Cobb
    July 11, 2014

    What if your house is forty years old. I am assuming the coating you are referring to is done on the outside foundation?

  2. Mike Collins
    July 11, 2014


    I like your answer.

    Over the years I found that the uninitiated relate to the phrase "waterproofing will bridge a crack of 1/16" over time, whereas damp-proofing will not". (1/16" is the industry standard).

    The reason "tar"/damp-proofing won't bridge a crack, over time, is that as a single material it will oxidize (air will dry out the oils) causing shrinkage of the tar and consequent cracking in the tar coating (like the floor of the salt flats out west). At that point the product has outlived it purpose. Drying and cracking of tar on a foundation wall happens faster than you would think. I've witnessed it happening in three years.

    Today's waterproofing membranes consist of a formulation of modified "tar"/asphalt/bitumen (usually modified with rubber) laminated to a carrier sheet, typically polyethylene. The polyethylene layer protects the formulation from air/oxidation.

    The water-proofing industry calls this type of product "self adhered waterproofing membrane". Laymen call it peel and stick waterproofing.

    (As an aside here, I always chuckle when I here the industry term self-adhered. It sounds so simple doesn't it. There is nothing simple about the "self-adhered" material or process.

    Involved in the "simple' self-adhering process are: preparation of the substrate, priming, detailing of wall intersections and penetrations, application of the membrane (including using a hand held roller over the surface to establish intimate contact with the substrate), sealing exposed overlaps within 12" of the bottom of the wall, sealing membrane cut edges, termination of the top terminal edge, and protecting the membrane before back filling with protection board/sheet molded drainage/rigid insulation or a combination thereof.

    Just what about that process is self-adhered? The industry makes it sound like the material just jumps out of the box and onto the wall. Simple? I know I'm a nerd about stuff like this.)

  3. Fred Wood
    July 11, 2014

    Until last years Colorado rains, my dirt crawl space floor was dry. This year it flooded and I pumped gallons of water out. I now have mold and need remediation. If I dig out all surface dirt and remove fiberglass insulation of concrete walls and plastic off floor, how would I waterproof? I also understand that vented crawl spaces, insulation is installed on ceiling between joists, not on concrete walls

  4. Tom Fitzsimmons
    July 12, 2014

    I had bad effluorescense on the basement wall of my house built in 1913. The concrete surfaces inside were spalling-off in chunks and I spent weeks chipping the walls with a welder's hammer and scrubbing with wire brushes to get to sound concrete. My research then suggested the spalling might have been caused by expansion force from the crystallizing salts, maybe like the force of water freezing to crystalline ice. Another thing about the walls. There were large diagonal cracks from sill to basement floor, and a friend who is a civil engineer said in 1913 the concrete wasn't poured in one go, and the cracks are possibly where the builders took lunch breaks after dumping concrete into forms from wheelbarrows. Or maybe they even poured concrete for the walls over a few days. Some of the floor joists and roof wood members still have concrete stains, so I suppose the form timbers were used to build the house structure. Nothing wasted!

  5. Kyle Wayne
    April 21, 2016

    Thanks for all of these tips to prevent basement flooding. I like what you said about waterproofing membranes. I imagine this preventative action can save a lot of headaches in the future. With summer gearing up I will make sure to look up a local professional to help me get this waterproofing done.

  6. Bonnie
    April 25, 2016

    Help! We were told to put down a roofing/foundation asphalt coating on a garage floor that we plan to convert to a living space. We used Black Jack and the smell is strong, even though it has only cured for a few days. I read that it would take from 7-14 days to fully cure.

    Will the smell go away when it is cured? Or do I now need to seal the asphalt with something?

    Thank you!

  7. Rickie Jones
    June 14, 2016

    I really like these suggestions. On my Ypsilanti, MI home, I had a team come in and fill my foundation cracks with a high pressured crack injection product, i believe it was polyurethane. We haven't seen any issues since this happened and we are now considering a french drain system with a sump pump. Thought?

  8. Joel
    September 11, 2016

    40yr old house, a few small wet spots, 1 crack, it needed a complete reno anyways so I am now down to foundation, 4 walls and a floor, I need to clean out a sloppy repair of old crack and redo properly (due to budget constraints I have no choice but to do almost all of this solo, over time, but I consider myself pretty capable, and smart enough to know when I need advice 🙂 ).

    My question is, is there any sealant, product that I can apply to the inner walls floor to prevent, minimize moisture (without potentially devastating off gassing issues or creating an interior condensation trap?

    I plan to finish with spray foam and drywall...

    * Also wondering about the sound insulation properties of spray foam, can I use it between the joists, Will it block sound? Why is pink batt insulation not advised between joists?

    # How to mitigate condensation from water pipes / hose between framing and drywall?

  9. Mike
    September 27, 2016

    Reference your article on Waterproofing Foundations: You state, "The waterproofing method I used on my own home is still available. It is a mixture of hot asphalt and rubber. The coating ends up being about one eighth inch thick or even thicker. A special insulating panel is placed in the hot liquid that helps protect the coating from damage during backfilling and it acts as both an insulator and a drainage plane. The rubber in the mixture imparts elasticity to the coating so if the foundation cracks, the coating stretches over the crack to provide protection." Can you share the name of this product with us?

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