Wallpaper Tools Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

When hanging wallpaper, the right tools are essential. Get a razor knife with the type blade that snaps off. This will give you a sharp edge throughout your project. A dull blade will tear your wallpaper.

The metal knife blade is used to hold the wallpaper tight against the wall while using a knife to trim away the excess paper. This will give you a good straight cut.

A level is required to ensure that the wallpaper is hung straight. Use a long bubble level to scribe a line on the wall to align the wallpaper. A small torpedo level will be needed in the small areas about windows and doors.

The smoothing brush, or plastic smoothing tool, will remove all the bubbles from the hung paper. It also helps push down the edges of the paper. This helps to make those seams invisible.

Use a sponge to remove any excess paste from the wallpaper or surrounding areas. Rinse the sponge often and change the water frequently. Be sure there is no glue left on the paper or painted woodwork.

Other useful tools are a paint brush, paint roller and a roller pan to help apply the wallpaper paste. Or the paste activator if you are using pre-pasted wallpaper.

Be sure you have a large flat surface for working with the paper. There are special wallpaper tables or make one from a smooth sheet of plywood sitting on two garbage cans.

With the right wallpaper tools, you'll have no problem getting the results you want.

Skil Jigsaw Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

A jigsaw can make cuts in wood, metals or plastics. Some of the newer saws feature a laser guide. A great help with those straight cuts. A few jig saws have a built-in light above the blade. Great for seeing the line you have to follow.

A scrolling feature allows you to rotate the blade independent of the jigsaw! A five-position orbital cut control allows adjustments for rough to finish cuts.

Some have quick change saw blades. No screw to mess with when changing blades. A built-in dust blower moves the sawdust away from the blade so you can see the line you are following.

This particular power saw has an onboard storage compartment for extra blades. Look for all of these features when you purchase your next orbital jigsaw.

Good Cents® Environmental Program

Posted on by Tim Carter

The Southern Company, a consortium of Southeast U.S. utility companies recently premiered the Good Cents® Environmental Program. This program is a hybrid of the original Good Cents® Home Program.

The original program was developed in an effort to help Americans reduce the amount of energy required to run their homes. The new program builds upon these same principals and incorporates environmental building options as well. There is no doubt that we, as a nation, should strive to lessen the impact upon our planet.

We need to preserve as many resources as possible for future unborn generations. The Good Cents® Environmental Program will definitely go a long way in helping us achieve this goal.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local companies who can help make your home more energy efficient.

The Good Cents® Environmental Program uses an energy and environmental rating system to grade your new home. The program analyzes the planning of your community, the design of your new home, and the construction practices implemented by your builder.

These factors are then graded as to their impact on the internal, external, and global environments. Once graded, you receive an Ecoscore. In order for your new house to become certified, you must score a minimum of 700 out of 1300 points.

Homeowners who are interested in this program should contact their local utility company to see if they are participating in the program. To date, over 300 U. S. utility companies are participating in the program. In the event that your utility is not currently participating, you, or preferably your builder, can sign up for the program by contacting:

Mr. Rucker indicated to me that he usually can process requests for information within 2 weeks time.

Additional Good Cents® Environmental Program Questions

The Good Cents® Environmental Program looks at six primary categories during the certification process. These categories are as follows: water efficiency, ecological living, construction practices, energy efficiency, building materials, and building design.

There are questions in each category which must be answered. The questions which follow are a sampling of those found in the actual certification program:

  • Are more than 50% of the plants used in your landscaping low-water use?
  • Does your home capture and reuse 'gray' water from showers, baths, and bathroom sinks?
  • Does your home capture, store, and reuse rainwater?
  • Does your home have a recharging station for electric vehicles?
  • Are recycling bins built into your home?
  • Does your community provide walkways or paths throughout the neighborhood that would encourage bicycling or walking?
  • Does your builder sort and recycle over 30% of your leftover materials?
  • Do you use recycled paving materials such as recycled rubber or stone?
  • Is more than 50% of the original non-pad area of your lot retained in its original state?
  • Was your HVAC system sized using the Manual J approved load calculation procedure?
  • Do you have ceiling insulation rated R-30 or higher?
  • Did you use water based paints and sealers?
  • Did you use interior doors made of composite wood products?
  • Did you use alternatives to dimensional lumber (such as I-joists or composite wood products) as a part of your rough lumber framing materials?
  • Does your new home feature a whole-house ventilating system?
  • Do you plan to plant deciduous trees on the western and southwestern side of your home?

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local companies who can help make your home more energy efficient.

Partial Listing Of Some Environmentally Friendly Products

Exterior Stains / Sealants The Flood Company
Hydrozo, Inc.
Olympic Paints & Stains		 800-321-3444
800-422-1902
800-621-2024
 
Engineered Lumber
(I-joists, composite wood
panels, etc.)		 Georgia Pacific Corp.
Louisiana-Pacific Corp.
Boise Cascade		 800-447-2882
503-221-0800
800-232-0788
 
Skylights Velux
Solatube
Pella
Anderson		 800-283-2831
800-773-7652
800-847-3552
612-439-5150
 
Foam Foundation
Insulation Systems		 American Conform Industries
Amoco Foam Products Co.
Cellofoam North America Co.		 800-266-3676
800-241-4402
800-241-3634
 
Room Enclosures Four Seasons Sunroofs
Lindal Sunroofs
Skytech Systems
Sunshine Rooms		 800-368-7732
800-426-0536
800-447-4938
800-222-1598

 

Column B040

Typical Homeowner Sweat Equity Jobs

Posted on by Tim Carter

Tips to Help Minimize Delays

There has always been a mystic surrounding construction work. I feel that this is due largely in part to the wonderful feeling of accomplishment after completion of a project or a phase of a project. Often, homeowners wish to get involved in their projects for one or more reasons. Frequently, they wish to combine the sense of accomplishment with cost savings.

Many homeowners have hidden building and remodeling talents. The level of ability and knowledge varies from person to person. However, problems can arise if a homeowner decides to use these talents in conjunction with those of a contractor. Mixing the talents of a homeowner and contractor can sometimes work. However, if not done properly, it can be like mixing oil and water.

Many contractors have been delayed by homeowners who were not able to complete their tasks on time. Contractors have been involved in warranty disputes where the failure was caused by an owner installed item. As you can see, it can be a problem area.

Fortunately, there are some tasks which a homeowner can perform which will not interfere with the work of the contractor. The key to this process is to develop crisp lines of responsibility. Choose tasks that are small in nature and that can be completed in hours, not days. Remember, these hours add up. The more hours that you work, the fewer hours you should have to pay for.

The homeowner should try to choose tasks which are realistic. They should also make sure that they can complete the task or tasks on time or ahead of schedule. A contractor will be very unhappy if he shows up to work and is unable to proceed because you didn't do your part.

Suggested 'Sweat Equity' Jobs

Demolition

Demolition work can be very rewarding. Some homeowners enjoy tearing things apart. They don't seem to mind the dust and dirt. However, avoid those aspects of demolition which involve structural modification. If you are not experienced in structural resupport, DO NOT attempt this type of work. Leave it to the professional.

Debris Removal

In the event you do not want to do the demolition, quite possibly you can carry or load the waste materials into the dumpster. This is mundane work, however, someone has to do it. Be sure to ask how to properly load the dumpster. The loads must be balanced and stacked properly for maximum use of space.

Jobsite Cleanup

This task can be accomplished on a daily or weekly basis to keep the jobsite clean and safe. Daily cleanup is best and provides for maximum productivity the next day. Fewer things are in the way, and any missing tools are generally found immediately.

Material Moving or Placement

Often, delivery trucks simply dump certain types of material (rough lumber, gravel, bricks, etc.). These materials often have to be hand carried to some other place on the jobsite. Frequently, the contractor can tell you how much of what material he needs in what place and when he needs it. You can transport these materials each night, or on the weekends. Just ask for a simple written list of quantities and exactly where they should be placed.

Painting

This is a very touchy subject. The painting of new work, be it a new house or a room addition, can be very time consuming. Many homeowners are used to painting a bedroom in a weekend. Surfaces that have never been painted usually require more coats of paint and a significant amount of spackling, sanding, and caulking. These tasks can be overwhelming for the average homeowner. Be very careful if you decide to attempt this type of work. I once witnessed an occasion where a homeowner took 26 days to paint a job that my painter had figured would take 5 days. The homeowner was, needless to say, very distressed.

Final Cleaning

Frequently, many contractors include in their bids an amount to do final dusting, window cleaning, etc. Ask if you can perform these tasks yourself. In all probability, you will do a much better job of cleaning than the contractor. Usually, they are more than happy to assign this task to you.

Landscaping

Many homeowners are very capable at landscaping. This work is usually performed at the end of the project and a perfect task for a homeowner. If you remove this task from the contractor, you can also save any profit he or she may have attached to this task as well.

If you decide to attempt any of these tasks, you should consider doing the following. If you follow these steps, you will maximize the amount of money that you can possibly save.

  1. When your job is put out for bid, request itemized quotations for each phase of the job. You know that all of the above tasks have to be done on your job, and you simply want to see what they cost. You want the entire job broken down, not just the above tasks. See the CHECKLIST FORMS for these types of breakdowns.
  2. Do not mention in the bidding stage or when you first meet the contractor's that you are interested in performing sweat equity tasks. Only mention this interest after you have received the itemized quotations.
  3. Use the sweat equity tasks as a negotiating point. See which contractor offers the best discount for the amount of work you promise to do. Make sure that what you propose to do is very realistic and prove that you can do it. A contractor who wants the job may be willing to allow you to do more tasks and / or offer more of a rebate to you.

Tips To Help Minimize Delays

Request A Schedule

Ask for a simple schedule which shows each aspect of the job and when it will occur. This will help you to make sure that you will accomplish your tasks on time.

Pre-Select Materials & Fixtures

These items have to be selected at some point. You might as well do it as soon as possible. This allows plenty of time, in the event that you can not make up your mind. Special order items should arrive on time.

Make Follow Up Phone Calls

Make sure that ordered items have in fact been ordered. Will they be shipped on schedule? Can you obtain a written order confirmation?

AVOID CHANGE ORDERS: Think out your project completely prior to starting. Consider all possibilities during the planning stage, not the construction phase. Ask for help or sketches, if you have trouble visualizing what a blueprint will look like in 3 - dimensions.

Column B17

Alternative Dispute Resolution Tips

Posted on by Tim Carter

Tips on Alternative Dispute Resolution

Have you ever noticed how small children settle disputes. There is usually a great deal of screaming and sometimes an occasional push or shove. However, no matter what the results, generally speaking, the children are playing again 5 or 10 minutes later. The entire fight is often forgotten.

Adults, on the other hand, rarely have the ability to forgive and forget. Pride and egos often get in the way. An adult, often without thinking, can back himself into a very tight corner from which there is no easy exit. The exit from this corner can be embarrassing. The adult will 'loose face'. Because of these reasons, adults tend to take a very hardened stance when a dispute occurs.

Dispute Resolution book cover

CLICK THE IMAGE to get a comprehensive guide to settling disputes without litigation.

This problem is magnified when you factor in another variable. Very few adults are willing to admit that they have made a mistake. Once again, they fear that they will look bad or appear 'weak'.

This situation causes adults to dig in their heels when a dispute arises. No one wants to back down. Very few adults will are willing to readily accept the consequences of their mistakes.

For example, let's assume that a disorganized contractor fails to obtain change orders in writing. Weeks go by and there is a dispute as to what exactly was supposed to be done and for how much money. Bingo! The contractor feels he is being cheated and fails to realize that he alone is to blame for the entire problem.

Example #2: A homeowner approves a paint color selection. After painting the room, the homeowner says that the color is too 'strong'. The homeowner blames the paint company and refuses to pay for the job. There are thousands of scenarios.

What To Do

Historically, very few filed suits actually make it to the trial stage. In fact, almost 97% of the time, the dispute is settled prior to going to trial! Frequently, a settlement is reached before the trial. But getting to the solution can be long and painful. Egos control this.

Remember, very few people are willing to readily admit that they made a mistake. Their egos blind them and they loose sight of what is really happening. They often fail to look at the business side of the equation. They have an axe to grind.

However, note that the dispute is eventually settled! Also, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out that long drawn out court proceedings are extremely costly and a tremendous drain personally. The time and energy that one spends trying to 'save face' can be enormous.

Getting to Yes book cover

Getting to Yes is an aid to helping people come to mutually acceptable agreements from various sorts of disputes. CLICK THE IMAGE to get the book now.

Alternative dispute resolution is a very viable method to settle differences. There are several methods that you can employ: Negotiation -- Mediation -- Arbitration -- Private Judging. Each of the methods has its pros and cons. Each method has a different price tag.

In almost all cases, any of the methods will save vast sums of money and time in getting to the final decision. The downside risk is very small. Just as in court cases, the end results can be unpredictable. However, the results are the same as a long drawn out court battle. In other words, the dispute gets settled!

The trick to a successful dispute resolution is really quite simple. Because people involved in a dispute rarely agree on anything once the dispute has started, you must decide what you are going to do before the dispute begins.

This is rarely done in practice. However, smart parties to a contract will decide such matters and include the necessary clauses in the contract documents. It is a very practical thing to do.

Tips On Alternative Dispute Resolution

The first thing that you should do prior to inserting language in your contract concerning dispute resolution is to contact a competent CONTRACT attorney in your state. Make sure that you can, in fact, insert language of this type into your contract. Some states have very specific conditions with respect to dispute resolution. Sometimes certain rights are given up if you choose dispute resolution. Make sure that it is the right 'fit' for your circumstance.

Assuming that you can do alternative dispute resolution in your state, consider the following:

  • Clearly state the method or methods which will be used to reach a settlement.
  • Select the person or agency which will handle the dispute resolution in advance. Insert this selection into the dispute resolution clause of your contract!
  • Include language as to who is responsible for paying for the dispute resolution. You can have the winner pay, or in the event of a split decision, each party can pay its proportional share. - Specify if the decision of the individual or agency will be final. Beware of this condition!!! Many people have been disappointed with forms of dispute resolution such as binding arbitration. Leave yourself an 'out' in case the dispute resolution is grossly in error.
  • Indicate the time period by which the monies must be paid once the dispute decision is reached.

Alternative Dispute Resolution Organizations

Before you get involved in a dispute, spend a little time and contact all of the following organizations. They will provide you with information concerning their organization, their affiliates, and / or association members. Some information is free, some is not.

  1. Contact your local bar association. Ask them if there is a local dispute resolution center in your town or city. Often they are very helpful.
  2. Contact your local Better Business Bureau. Many local BBBs offer alternative dispute resolution services to the general public. The contractor you have the problem with does not necessarily have to be a member of the BBB to participate. However, some members of your BBB may already be signed up for these programs. Your local BBB can fill you in on the details. Do not hesitate to call them!!!
  3. Contact the following organizations for additional information:
  • National Institute for Dispute Resolution
    1726 M Street
    N.W. Washington D.C. 20036
    202-466-4764
    Free referrals to local resolution centers.
  • Society of Professionals in Dispute Resolution
    815 15th Street N.W.
    Washington D.C. 20005
    202-783-7277
    Membership Directory available for $25 plus $3 shipping/handling
  • American Arbitration Association
    140 W. 51st Street
    New York, New York 10020
    212-484-4000

 

Column B26

Resilient Flooring Materials

Posted on by Tim Carter

Resilient Flooring Materials
Sheet Vinyl, Vinyl Tile, Cork, & Rubber

Modern vinyl resilient flooring bears very little resemblance to the 'linoleum' of old. Linoleum, years ago, was made using canvas or burlap as a base material. Cork and wood dust was often pigmented and used for creating patterns. The final process then coated these materials with a solidified linseed oil and gum mixture.

Resilient floorings today incorporate a wide range of materials which make them far more durable and bouncy than the old 'linoleum'. Resilient floorings are available in several forms. The first choice for many individuals is sheet vinyl flooring. This material is manufactured in large pieces up to 12 feet wide. It comes in large rolls.

Another form of resilient flooring is vinyl tile. These tiles are usually available in 12" x 12" squares. Vinyl tiles are often used in areas which will receive extremely heavy foot traffic. They have excellent durability characteristics.

Cork flooring and rubber flooring are also alternative choices. Both of these materials perform well as flooring. Cork has been used for years in many commercial buildings such as libraries and churches. Rubber flooring is used commercially as well. It has a unique characteristic. When it gets wet, it usually is not slippery!

Plastic Flooring

Virtually everyone knows how durable plastic can be. Some plastics resist breakdown for hundreds of years. Poly-vinyl chloride (PVC) is one of these plastics. Plumbing and sewer pipes are made from this material, because we expect long useful lives from them. Resilient floorings also incorporate PVC in the manufacturing process.

The most important part of a sheet vinyl resilient flooring is the part you walk on. It is the top layer. This top layer is often referred to as the 'wearlayer'. Many high quality manufacturers use clear PVC plastics as their 'wearlayers'. The use of PVC as a wearlayer offers another distinct advantage. PVC plastics have the ability to be glued and welded together into one piece using special cements. These glues or cements actually soften the PVC molecules and allow the PVC molecules from two different pieces of material to interlock with one another as the cement or glue dries. This is important, in the event that your sheet vinyl floor requires that two pieces be seamed together. The special glues actually create one solid floor!

Thickness is Everything

It is extremely important to realize that the PVC wearlayers are available in different thicknesses. The thickness of the wearlayer can differ by as much as 500%!!!! That is an incredible difference. Usually, the products with the thicker wearlayer will cost more. The wearlayer thickness can be as thin as 0.005 inch or as thick as 0.025 inch. This is an important consideration. A thinner layer will be more susceptible to damage. Remember, the color and pattern of a sheet vinyl floor is protected by the wearlayer. If the wearlayer is deeply scratched or becomes worn, the color and pattern can and will become damaged beyond repair.

A distinct advantage to sheet vinyl flooring is its waterproof quality. Water which lays on top of the wearlayer will not harm the floor. Only when water is allowed to get underneath the flooring can it create a problem. Damp mopping will not harm a sheet vinyl floor, however, if you flood the floor and water seeps under the edges, or a seam is not properly glued, you can have a serious problem. Be sure that you do not use massive amounts of water when cleaning. If you flood your flooring with water, the water may flow to an edge and get beneath the flooring. This can cause the glue to fail in some instances.

Blacktop and Sheet Vinyl

If you have an asphalt or blacktop driveway, BEWARE! Asphalt is a product of crude oil, which we all know is black in color. When you walk across an asphalt surface small amounts of oil are picked up by your shoes. If you then walk onto a sheet vinyl floor, this oil is deposited onto the PVC wearlayer. This oil can permanently stain some vinyl floorings. Certain manufactures claim to have sheet vinyl PVC wearlayers that resist these stains.

If you have an older sheet vinyl floor, you very likely can see distinctive yellow paths where you commonly walk across the floor. In the past, many people associated this problem with wax buildup on the flooring. While the waxes will yellow, no one ever seemed to be able to explain the extra deep yellowing in the traffic areas! So, if you have an asphalt drive, I suggest you get in the habit of removing your shoes as soon as you enter the house. No matter what you walk on, you will be depositing the oil from the driveway onto something.

High gloss finishes available on both sheet vinyl flooring and vinyl tiles are accomplished by factory applied layers of urethane. These urethanes are not that different from urethanes that are used on hardwood flooring. These coatings, just like any other coating, can be damaged. The high gloss finishes will more readily show scratches or scuffs. Many manufactures make specific floor care products and coatings which will allow you to easily maintain these surfaces. As with anything, you must religiously follow directions to obtain the best results.

Manufacturers of Sheet Vinyl & Vinyl Tile Products

The following is a listing of several manufacturers who make a variety of sheet vinyl and vinyl tile flooring products. I suggest that you call them as soon as possible and request product literature. All of them will be glad to send it to you. Many of them will also produce a list of local suppliers who carry their products. Several of the manufacturers have wonderful floor 'maintenance and care' pamphlets.

  • Armstrong World Industries
    717-397-0611
    www.armstrong.com
    Vinyl Tile & Sheet Vinyl
  • Azrok Industries
    210-558-6400
    Vinyl tile
  • Congoleum Corporation
    800-274-3266,
    www.congoleum.com
    Vinyl Tile & Sheet Vinyl
  • Flexco Company
    800-633-3151
    www.flexcofloors.com
    Vinyl tile
  • Mannington Mills, Inc.
    856-935-3000
    www.mannington.com
    Vinyl tile & Sheet Vinyl

Sheet Vinyl and Vinyl Tile Floor Maintenance and Care

Immediately after Installation: Do not disturb seams which have been glued for at least 16 hours. Keep traffic to a minimum for at least two days to allow adhesives plenty of time to 'set' or harden. Use care in placing furniture and appliances. Heavy items can scar and indent the flooring permanently!!

Regular Maintenance: You must vacuum or sweep on a very regular basis to maintain the crisp reflective surface of the wearlayer. Dirt, sand, etc. which is walked on will scratch these surfaces! Once scratched, it may be impossible to buff out! Simply dust mop or vacuum on a regular basis, as it only takes a few minutes. When washing the floor, use the recommended and approved cleaners suggested by the manufacturer. Other soaps or cleaning agents may leave a residue that attracts dirt or dulls the wearlayer surface!

Periodic Polishing: If you must or want to polish your floor, do so only with approved polishes. Do not trust the labels of products you see in grocery or other stores. Only use polishes recommended by the manufacturers. The reason is simple. Non approved polishes may have chemicals that will harm the wearlayer of your flooring!! Once harmed, you may not be able to restore its luster. Always follow directions to the letter. You will obtain the best results when you follow the directions. If you need to strip previously applied polishing compounds, only use approved strippers!!!

Tips: Use nonstaining floor protectors under furniture legs. Wipe up spills promptly, as some drinks and liquids may contain pigments which can stain the wearlayer! If you have an asphalt driveway use only acrylic based driveway sealing compounds. This will minimize staining, but NOT totally eliminate the possibility of stains! Some carpet dyes can stain the wearlayers. Be careful of after market dyes or inexpensive carpeting! Floors can be harmed by direct, intensive sunlight. Draw shades or blinds during peak periods of sunlight!! Sustained 120 degree heat can also discolor or fade flooring as well. Any heat source should be watched closely.

Manufacturers of Cork & Rubber Flooring

CORK

  • Dodge - Regupol, Inc.
    717-295-3400
    www.regupol.com
  • Expanko Cork Co.
    800-345-6202
    www.expanko.com
  • Wicander Enterprises, Inc.
    410-553-6062
    www.wicanders.com

RUBBER

    • American Floor Products Company, Inc.
      800-342-0424
      www.afco-usa.com/
    • Johnsonite
      800-899-8916
      www.johnsonite.com
    • Musson Rubber Co.
      800-321-2381
      www.mussonrubber.com
    • RB Rubber Products
      800-525-5530

www.rbrubber.com

Column B13

House Plans And Blueprints

Posted on by Tim Carter

Blueprints & Plans
Door, Window & Room Finish Schedules

Many past customers of mine were intimidated by blueprints.  They didn't quite understand them and, in many instances, had a great deal of trouble visualizing what the new home or room addition was going to look like.  My guess is that this dilemma is prevalent among people who don't deal with blueprints on a regular basis.  I also found out that a very large majority of people felt that the quality of blueprints was very similar.  When you think about it, it makes sense.  Here are several large pieces of white paper with a bunch of lines, arrows, word, and numbers.  What really differentiates one set of prints from another, besides design?  The answer is very simple.  Detail!

A BIG Difference

Blueprints, just like anything else, are available in varying levels of quality.  This quality is a function of many things.  Several are as follows:  Accuracy of dimensions, experience level of architect / draftsperson, practical field experience of architect / draftsperson, knowledge of current building codes, presence or lack of explanatory notes, presence or lack of details of specific architectural details, presence of a separate electrical drawing or layout, presence or lack of written specifications,  and presence or lack of appliance, plumbing fixture, electric fixture, allowance, window, door, & room finish schedules.

Key Communications Tool

Blueprints are the heart and soul of a project.  They are the plans.  Poor quality plans in anything generally lead to failures, arguments, delays, etc.  This is especially true in building and remodeling.  The old saying, 'A picture is worth a thousand words.' is so true.  A clear, concise, detailed set of blueprints allows you to easily communicate what you want to your contractor.  They can and should become a part of the contract between you and your contractor.  In the event of a problem or a dispute you can quickly refer to the drawings for a crisp refresher of what exactly was supposed to be done.  However, blueprints can only settle disputes if, in fact, they have the necessary detail.

Plan Schedules

Poor quality blueprints are often cluttered.  They have too much information in a small area.  Dimensions and other details are awash in a sea of words and notes.  This is not only confusing, it becomes the breeding ground for honest mistakes on the contractor's part.  Some information which is common to each room can be put in one place on the drawings.  These are often referred to as schedules.  Schedules organize information and make it readily available.

Common schedules found on high quality blueprints are as follows:  window & door, room finish, plumbing fixture, electrical fixture, appliance, and miscellaneous allowance schedules.  These schedules are merely tables (a box of columns and rows) that list information about specific items.  Schedules allow you to quickly refer to a specific item.

Information about that item which can be of interest to many people can be assembled in one location.  Take for example a simple window.  The following people need to know certain things about the window: window supplier needs to know type, size, glazing, screens, etc., rough carpenter needs to know how big to make the rough opening and the size of the structural header over the window, bricklayer may need to know the size of the masonry lintel over the window, finish carpenter needs to know any special trim requirements, and the painter needs to know how to finish the exterior and interior of the window.

The same can be said for an entire room.  The workmen and women need to know what is going to happen to the floors, walls, ceiling, baseboards, window and door casings, wall  and window treatments, etc.  Think of the advantage if all of this information was gathered in one place instead of bits and pieces throughout the drawings.

The creation of a schedule is very simple.  If you don't have drafting equipment, don't worry.  A beginner can easily use 1/4" graph paper.  The task is to simply create a table  which lists the items and the notes explaining each item in an organized fashion.  An example of a door and window schedule can be found in the following sample schedule.

Sample Door And  Window Schedule

The only thing that may be confusing in the schedule is the first column "Mark".  This refers to the window or door location on the blueprint.  In other words, on the floor plan of each level of the house, windows and doors are drawn within the wall layout.  The architect assigns a number to each window and door beginning with #1.  So, if you count up all of your windows, exterior doors, interior doors, and garage doors and it totals 47, you better have 47 items listed in the schedule and numbers 1 - 47 assigned to the various doors and windows. It is a very easy system.

Mark Mfr. &
Model #		 Struc.
Header		 Rough
Opening		 Ext.
Finish		 Int.
Finish		 Glazing Remarks
#1 Marvin
WDH2450		 Dbl 2x8's 2'1"
x
4' 3"		 Aluminum
Clad		 Stain &
2 coats
Urethane		 Soft coat
Low-E		 Match existing
casings
#2 Stanley
DSD6068		 Dbl 2x10's 6'2"
x
6'11"		 Stain &
3 coats
Urethane		 Stain &
2 coats
Urethane		 None Use
adjustable
threshold
#3 Awsco
OCT24		 Dbl 2x6's 2'1"
x
2'1"		 Prime &
2 coats
acrylic paint		 Stain &
2 coats
Urethane		 Insulated
Glass		 Include
stained glass
option M-360

Sample Room Finish Schedule

The room finish schedule should have an entry for every room and hallway in the house or room addition. You can hopefully see how simple they are to produce.

Appliance and plumbing fixture schedules are similar. For example, the appliance schedule would list each appliance from top to bottom in the first column. Other columns would list manufacturer & model #, color, special features, options, etc. The plumbing fixture schedule would list the room, fixtures for that room, manufacturer & model #, color, finish, handle options, etc.

The point of this exercise is simple. List as much information as possible about each thing in an organized fashion. These decisions eventually must be made by you. By doing it ahead of time and putting it in writing in the plan, you shift the ownership of all problems directly to the builder and contractor. If you create accurate schedules, I can assure you that your problems will be few and far between. Good Luck!

Room Flooring Walls Ceiling Baseboard Casings Remarks
Basement Concrete Concrete Unfinished None None Clean floors
and walls and
seal floor
Living
Room		 Hardwood
Random Oak
Plank		 1/2" Drywall
with Chair
Rail		 Oak beams
and drywall
per plans		 5" high profile
#276 poplar
stained		 3" wide
Profile #415
stained		 Floors to
have Walnut
pegs
Kitchen Cork with 3
coats of
Urethane		 1/2" Drywall
with Wallpaper
Border		 Trayed
drywall
ceiling		 5" high profile
#276 pine
painted		 3" wide
Profile #415
painted		 Trim paint to
high gloss
Master
Bedroom		 3" Wide
hardwood
border,
Carpet infill		 1/2" Drywall
with
wallpaper		 Drywall
with
stucco
finish		 4" high profile
#355
painted		 3" wide
Profile #415
painted		 Carpet infill
to be
Berber
Hall "A" Hardwood
with Carpet
Runner		 1/2" Drywall
with paint		 Smooth
drywall		 4" high profile
#355
painted		 3" wide
Profile #415
painted		 None

Do you have blueprints of your house? If you do, here is why you should preserve them.

Column B106

HVAC Static Pressure

Posted on by Tim Carter
hvac static pressure

HVAC Static Pressure | See the long supply duct on the left next to the gray I-beam? Notice how it reduces down in width? That's what needs to be done in supply ductwork to maintain adequate static pressure as the main duct gets farther away from the furnace. The same-sized duct on the right is the main return air trunk line heading back to the furnace. This column has SO MUCH good information it's why I shared it with my 31,000 subscribers in my October 25, 2020 FREE newseltter. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

HVAC static pressure is the measurement of the force the air inside your ductwork. The pressure reading at the furthest air register from the furnace or air handler must be equal to the pressure measured at the closest one.

HVAC Static Pressure Checklist

  • Main supply duct must get smaller as branch lines take off
  • Room farthest from the furnace can be just as warm/cool as the most comfortable room in the house
  • HVAC ducts should mimic blood vessels in your body
  • Install a damper control in each branch line

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HVAC Static Pressure Is Easy To Maintain

The first thing to remember is that each room in your home needs a certain amount of air flowing into it for you to be comfortable. I say this assuming your home has a forced-air heating system or an air-conditioning system for summer cooling.

It's important to realize that the air coming out of the supply registers in each room must be flowing at the same rate. This happens when the static pressure in the ducts is equal no matter where you measure it in the duct system.

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How Do You Balance Airflow In Ductwork?

The first step to balance airflow in ductwork is to calculate how many cubic feet of conditioned air must flow into each room to make the room comfortable.

Most people don't realize that residential heating and cooling systems are very complex. This is true for both forced air systems as well as hot water or steam heating systems.

There are many calculations that must be made to ensure that the properly sized equipment is selected. There are many controls on the equipment which must be properly adjusted to assure a well-balanced system. Ductwork must be properly designed and sized. It is by far the most technical aspect of residential construction.

How Do You Calculate the Correct Furnace Size?

When you decide to install a forced air furnace or air conditioning system, you need to make various calculations. Each room of your house, depending on its size, location, compass orientation, amount of glass, etc., requires a certain volume of air to enter it to properly maintain the desired temperature.

attic condensation

This is a furnace up in an attic. The photo was sent in by one of my newsletter subscribers. Several mistakes were made during its installation, not the least of which it's laying on its side instead of being a proper low-boy furnace. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

As you can imagine, each room depending on the variables mentioned above will probably demand a different volume of air. A larger room will require more air than a smaller room.

A corner room may have two outside walls, while an interior room may have no exterior walls. You or your HVAC person must think and quantify all of these things to provide a comfortable interior climate.

What is the Primary Function of an HVAC System?

Interior climate control is the primary function of a heating and cooling system. A properly installed system will ensure that each room of the house is adequately heated or cooled.

An inferior system will result in widely different temperatures from room to room, hot and cold spots, excessive noise, etc. The trick is to make sure that the proper amount of air enters and leaves each room.

The calculations that are made to ensure the proper amount of air enters the room tell the HVAC person a very important number. It tells that person how many cubic feet per minute of air each room requires.

This, in turn, tells the HVAC person how powerful of a blower to install with the furnace. Common sense would tell you that if the calculations indicated that the entire house required 1,750 cubic feet per minute and the blower could only produce 1,200 feet per minute, there would be a problem. Let's assume that the HVAC person gets the right sized blower.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local HVAC duct contractors.

How Do You Get the Right Amount of Air Into Each Room?

The challenge is to get the proper amount of air into each room at the same time. This is where things begin to get complicated.

Here's the problem. The furnace blower fan only creates a certain amount of energy at any given instant. This energy is constant. If one room gets too much air (energy), there won't be enough for the remaining rooms. Remember, different amounts of air (energy) are going to each room.

To achieve the goal of getting the proper amount of air (energy) into each room at the same time is to have equalized static pressure throughout the entire duct system. Static pressure in an HVAC system is the same thing as blood pressure in your body.

It's a time-tested principle that works. It is not that difficult to achieve in your HVAC system.

The principle is very easy to apply. Remember the initial calculation that indicates the total number of cubic feet per minute of air that your house requires?

How Important is it to Do the Airflow Calculations?

It's vitally important that you or your HVAC person correctly calculates this number. If you decide to do this calculation, you must obtain heating and air conditioning books which tell you how to do it. It is not that difficult, it just takes time.

Your local library probably has the books that you need. Once you have this number, and you have the separate number for each room, you are ready to design your ductwork.

HVAC Static Pressure & Ductwork Installation

Ductwork is like any other piping device. You can only get so much air through a duct at a given pressure. It makes sense. You must not forget this concept.

We also know that the furnace blower fan can only produce so much energy. This energy translates to pressure because it is pushing the air out of the furnace. The pressure at the blower will not be equal to the pressure at the air supply register in each room.

This is because the total pressure of the blower becomes divided by the number of air supply registers. However, the pressure at each register must be the same regardless of the size of the room or register.

Here is how it works. Once the air (energy) leaves the furnace blower it begins to travel down the main supply duct. This duct has a certain cross-sectional area.

An example would be a duct 8" high by 22" wide. Before the blower turns on, this duct, as well as all of the other ducts, are full of air. The blower is going to have to push this air out of the way in order to get the hot or cold air into the rooms.

It takes energy to push things. Remember, the furnace blower only creates a constant amount of energy at any given moment. When the furnace blower turns on, it begins to push all of the air down the ducts.

Every time a branch duct turns off the main duct there is less energy to push the remainder of the air. If the main duct does not reduce in size after several branches are taken off, the remaining air (energy) begins pushing extra air that it shouldn't have to push.

If this happens, this wasted energy results in lower energy (air) at the remaining supply air registers. The pressure of the air coming out of these registers will be lower than the pressure at the registers closer to the furnace.

As you can see, the main air duct must continue to get smaller and smaller as more branches go off to each room. This is exactly how your blood supply system is designed. The arteries close to your heart are much larger than the arteries in your hands or feet.

The downsizing of the main duct depends upon the amount of energy which is left after each branch duct leaves the main duct. Many factors come into play as to when this duct begins its downsizing.

However, if for some reason your main duct does not get smaller as branch runs are taken off, ask your HVAC person why. I hope they have a good explanation.

What are Other  Static Pressure Air Balancing Tips?

There are some other important points you should consider when installing a new furnace or replacing an existing one. Try to locate the furnace in the center of the structure.

Did you ever stop to wonder why your heart isn't in your head or your feet? By placing the furnace in the middle of the structure, you minimize the distance to the farthest room.

This means less air has to be pushed. Make sure that the HVAC person installs a damper control in each branch duct going to each room.

damper control

The lever you see on the side of the round metal duct is a damper control. It is connected to a round metal disk inside the duct pipe. If I rotated the lever so that it was straight up and down, the disk would block 90 percent of the air flow in the duct. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

This damper control is very similar to a water faucet. You can limit the amount of air going to each room by adjusting this damper. This extra control will also help you to balance the system.

Ask to see the calculations that your HVAC person used to enable him or her to properly balance your system. These calculations will show each room and the amount of air each room needs. The air volume will be expressed in cubic feet per minute (CFM). Ask questions so that you fully understand the calculations. Spend a few minutes at the library or local bookstore. Believe me, you can't know enough about your heating and cooling system.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local HVAC duct contractors.

Column B12

Foam Insulation Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

Need to put insulation around a window or door? Try this new spray foam insulation. It stays permanently flexible. Get the correct polyurethane insulation. One type gets rigid after curing, while the other cures flexible.

This expanding foam insulation bonds well with wood or metals. It is great for stopping those air leaks between doors, windows and the framing.

Do-it-yourself spray insulation is easy to do. Just follow the directions on the can for best results. As a precaution, wear rubber gloves and safety glasses.

When applying, only fill the crack about halfway with the polyurethane foam insulation. The foam will expand to fill the rest of the gap.

One last tip, wear old clothes. The foam can ruin your brand new shirt.

Wallpaper Around Windows Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

How do you get the wallpaper to match perfect above and below the window? You can't just draw a plumb line and hang the wallpaper. If you do the wallpaper pattern might not match the wallpaper that is already hung.

Most wallpaper, pre-pasted styles, expand when the activator is applied. In some cases, as much as 3/8" of an inch. Mark the wall with a plumb line that is 1/8" longer then the width of the wallpaper after the activator has been applied. Then when hanging the paper, keep it an 1/8" away from the line. That will ensure the seams top and bottom will look perfect.