Mixing Concrete Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

Doing concrete work or masonry work can be hard work. Mixing the concrete is very hard when done by hand. By the time you mixed it, you are too tired to do the work properly. There is an easier way.

A new tool is available that looks like a small rotary tiller and a plastic tub. However, this one is designed for mixing your concrete. This gas powered tiller can make easy work of the mixing chore. Just pour in the concrete mix in the tub, add water and start up the mixer. Place it in the tub and start mixing.

These new power tools do the work and saves your back. You will be ready to work with the concrete, mortar or sand mix.

Garden Arbor Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

You have a photograph of the garden arbor but not plans. Check the article to see if they provide any overall dimensions. If you have those, start working backwards. Gather the materials required. For best results outdoors, use redwood because it is naturally rot resistant. If all the pieces are painted before assembly, they will last even longer.

If your project has curved cuts in it, check the house for cans or bowls with a similar size curve. Use this as a template for drawing your curves. If the desired curve is larger than any household item, get a thin, flexible piece of wood. It can be bent in match your curve.

Cut the rest of the material and check them for fit. Paint all the pieces before assembly. Start putting your garden trellis together and add pieces as required.

With just a few dimensions or measurements, you can create a wonderful garden arbor from a photograph or drawing.

Antique Door Hardware Video

Posted on by Tim Carter
antique door hardware egg and dart

Antique Door Hardware - This antique egg and dart hardware is featured in the video below. It comes in all sorts of FINISHES, including bright brass. CLICK or TAP HERE or the photo to purchase it.

Antique Door Hardware - It's Stunning

If you want to have that antique look in your home, you don't have to distress your own hardware. You can purchase solid brass locksets that take your doors back a hundred years in looks. Backplates, doorknobs, including the old crystal ones, and even skeleton keys are available. The best thing is they fit in the existing holes in your doors.

CLICK or TAP HERE to see the exact antique door hardware I used in my home.

Just remove your existing hardware. Slide in the new hardware and you are ready to go. To complete the look, be sure to change your door hinges to match. There are special decorative tips available for the hinge pin.

Add the skeleton key and deadbolt locks and you will have that new antique door hardware that looks old.

How to Paint a Door Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

If you need to paint a new wood door or an existing interior door, and want long lasting, professional results, remove all door hardware first. The time spent trying to mask off all the hardware will be longer than simply removing it. Plus, you won't get paint on the door knob or plates.

Remove the door knobs and back plates first. Remove the lock set and don't forget the hinges. To help with the hinge removal, open the door slightly and place a shim under the corner to support the door. Then unscrew the hinges, starting with the bottom and working your way up. Once the hinges have been removed, you can take the door down and lay it on the latch edge. This will allow access to the top, bottom and hinge edges. It is important to paint these edges so moisture does not get into the wooden door and cause it to warp or twist.

Once all the hardware is off, paint the door getting all the sides and edges. The removal of the hardware will help with that professional looking finish.

This video was featured in the May 23, 2014 Weekend Warrior Tips. Tim asked for a YES or NO.

Sanding Molding Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

How do you sand a curved piece of wood? Use glass! No, not a drinking glass. There is a new sanding block made out of recycled glass. Up to 98% is recycled material.

These sanding blocks will conform to the surface you are sanding. So you can effective sand a curved details door molding or crown molding. As you sand, some of the block is worn away and the resulting surface with match your molding. The sanding blocks are available in various grits, type and sizes to match your sanding requirements. There is even one designed for rust removal from metal.

The glass sanding blocks will conform better than regular sandpaper. These sanding blocks are great for those odd shaped or curved objects.

Rust Repair Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

Did you leave those metal tools or objects outside all winter? A little rusty now? To get these items ready for painting, you have to remove the rust and have the right tools.

Scrap any loose paint off with a thin, flexible, metal putty knife. Then sand the rusty area with a wire brush or sanding block.

Next, you will need a good rust inhibitive primer. Some of these primers can be used over slightly rusted metal, so you don't have to remove all the rust. The primer labels with have instructions as to how much rust it will cover and any other preparation that is required. A primer with zinc or chromate is a better choice. Use an industrial type primer if the others can't be found.

Following the directions for the primer is critical in getting the desired results.

Stainless Steel Sink Care

Posted on by Tim Carter
stainless steel sink

Stainless Steel Sink Care | This is my own undermount sink at my own home. My wife loved this countertop and sink. We sold the house and moved to New Hampshire. © 2017 Tim Carter

Stainless Steel Sink Care

Can you imagine how amazed Harry Brearley must have been the day he noticed that his scrap steel samples were not rusting? You see, back in 1913, he was working for the British Steel Corporation trying to develop hard steel for gun barrels. He had been experimenting by adding varying amounts of chromium to ordinary steel. Evidently it didn't take long to notice that the material had incredible corrosion resistance. Stainless steel was further enhanced by adding nickel as well.

How Many Types of Stainless Steel are There?

Stainless steel is by no means a simple compound. There are over 60 different types that are readily known and formulated! All have varying amounts of different chemical elements in them to impart different characteristics. However, chromium and nickel are by far the most important elements which give stainless steel its excellent reputation. Certain types of stainless steel may also contain smaller amounts of copper, aluminum, silicon, and molybdenum. These elements all produce different characteristics when mixed in varying amounts. However, for common household everyday use, stainless steel contains 18 percent or more chromium in content and approximately 9 percent nickel does quite well.

Is Stainless Steel The Ultimate Sink?

I don't know if there is a perfect sink for kitchen or bath purposes. All seem to have positive and negative qualities. Take my house for example. We happen to have a cast iron sink with a bright yellow porcelain finish. The sink is no doubt colorful. However, the porcelain finish is susceptible to chipping and scratches. Solid surface sinks can be chipped and harmed by hot objects. Stainless steel is virtually carefree, but yet it can be dented, scratched and harmed by certain chemicals. However, stainless steel is affordable, and probably the easiest of all choices to maintain.

Does the Metal Thickness Vary?

Stainless steel sinks are by no means all created equal. Some use steel which is nearly twice as thick as others. Of course, the thicker sink will cost more money. However, it may prove to be a better investment over the long run. Thicker sinks will resist denting. They also will flex less than their thinner counterparts. Thickness is measured by gauge. Residential sinks will range from 18 gauge (.047 - .052 inch) to 23 gauge (.027 - .029 inch).

Can You Make Stainless Sinks Quiet?

Some people object to the metallic sound which is produced when working with or in a stainless steel sink. Some manufacturers spray a thin insulating compound on the underside of sinks to control this noise.

You can retrofit or add additional insulation if you find noise to be an issue. Spray foam insulating compounds will often readily stick or adhere to the bottoms of stainless steel sinks. Once installed, you can foam the undersides of the sink to control noise. The foam will also insulate and keep washing water hotter for longer periods of time. Be sure to wear eye protection as the foam will drop into your eyes as you lay on your back.

Can Stainless Steel Corrode?

Stainless steel sinks can corrode. Chlorine bleach is a very aggressive chemical. It can and will corrode stainless steel. Remember, stainless steel is primarily steel, chromium, and nickel. Chemicals can and will discolor these materials. Certain acids, etc. will cause problems. Don't allow family members to perform chemistry experiments or other strange brew mixing operations in your new sink. Do these operations in the basement or some other sink!

Remember, many, many ordinary household cleaners contain chlorine bleach. Look on the label for the words chlorine bleach or sodium hypochlorite. These are the keywords!

Stainless Steel Do's and Don'ts

Do's

Rinse, Rinse, and Rinse Again ...

Rinse your sink well after each use. Rub the metal with a clean cloth or paper towel as the clean water is flowing. Simply spraying will not remove all residue or harmful deposits.

Perform Weekly Cleaning With Approved Cleaner

It is very helpful to clean the sink with an approved mild or ultra-mild abrasive cleaner on a weekly basis. This will help keep the sink look shiny and new. Remember to follow grain marks that are already present. Here's my favorite stainless steel cleaner:

stainless steel cleaner

I've used this cleaner for years on my stainless steel. It's fantastic. CLICK or TAP HERE or the image to have it in your hands in days.

Dry the Sink after Rinsing

Unless pure distilled water flows from your faucet (usually this happens only in chemistry labs), there will be dissolved minerals and salts in your rinse water. When the rinse water evaporates, the minerals/salts are left behind. These are the same water spots you see on your car finish. If you dry your sink after rinsing, these spots will not form. If you have hard water deposits, try to use a little white vinegar to remove them. After removal, rinse and dry the sink.

Don'ts

Rubber Mats .... No Way!

Rubber mats cause big problems with stainless steel. They can trap harmful cleaning chemicals that will not be rinsed away. The water and cleaners is trapped between the rubber and the steel and never dries.

Scrubbing Across the Grain

Certain new sinks come with a factory grain or fine polish lines. Always scrub parallel to these marks.

Allowing Cleaners or Detergents to Dry on Surface

Cleaners and detergents can and do contain harmful chemicals that can corrode stainless steel. You can use them, but they must not be allowed to sit on the sink surface. In addition, do NOT fill the sink and allow a strong solution of chlorine bleach and water to sit in the sink. This chemical brew can cause problems. If you want to sanitize an object in a solution of chlorine bleach, use a bucket or other non-stainless steel sink.

Steel Wool Pads .... No Way!!

Never use steel wool to clean a stainless steel sink. Small steel fibers will be left behind which will rust. Always use a nylon or some other synthetic cleaning pad to scour the sink. These pads used in conjunction with approved abrasive cleaners will do anything that you might have attempted with steel wool.

Stainless Steel Sink Stain Troubleshooting Guide

Virtually every stain that occurs in a stainless steel sink is a result of operator error - that is, the homeowner or user has created the problem. High-quality stainless steel is very resistant to staining, but problems can happen. Here are some common problems:

Rust Marks / Rings in the Sink

Traditional orange/red rust marks in a high-quality stainless steel sink can almost always be traced to one of three sources - steel wool pads used for cleaning, tin-coated steel cans or cast iron pots left in the sink while wet, or iron deposits that actually are found within the water. The rust stains are not usually a part of the stainless steel, they are simple deposits on the surface of the sink. Scrubbing the stains with an abrasive cleaner along the grain lines of the finish will almost always immediately solve the problem.

Scratches

Unless your sink is made from diamonds, it is going to scratch. I found this out in my college course in geology. Stainless steel is hard but it can and will scratch. Unfortunately, some sinks come with a fine grain or brushed pattern. If a scratch goes across this grain is shows much more readily had there been no grain. Scratch removal can be very tough to accomplish. If there is a grain in your sink, you must remove while scrubbing in the same direction as the grain. Fine scratches can be removed with some buffing with ultra-fine abrasives and/or using a white 3M pad and Shiny Sinks or Inox Cream. Do not attack the sink surface or be too aggressive.

Pit Marks or Obvious Corrosion

Corrosion is a real threat. Your builder, plumber, or ceramic tile installer, or you may be responsible! Construction chemicals, solvents and household cleaners contain chlorides and acids which can react and damage stainless steel. Chlorine bleach (chloride!) or products that contain it (many ordinary household cleaners do!) can stain/corrode a stainless steel sink. Muriatic acid which may be used by a ceramic tile person to clean grout, etc. Plumbing PVC solvents etc. can possibly cause problems. If a dangerous chemical gets on the sink, wash it immediately with water. Rinse well and dry the sink with a towel or paper towels.

Standing Water in the Bottom of the Sink

High-quality sinks are formed so that the bottom surface is not level. It is pitched to the large drain hole. However, strainer baskets are installed by plumbers that sometimes have a thickness greater than the recessed ledge created for the strainer. This can cause a small backup of water. Be sure the strainer you pick is compatible with the sink.

Multicolored Stains or Residue on the Bottom of Sink

These problems are most commonly traced to minerals contained in your water. They can also be caused by salts from water softeners. Even cleaners can cause the problem, ones that have an oil base! These stains can be removed by using Shiny Sinks or Bar Keepers Friend in most cases. Rinse well and then dry the sink to see what happens.

Stainless Steel Sink Cleaners

Your grocery store will usually stock useful and approved stainless steel sink cleaners. Always, always get written information from your specific sink manufacturer to see what they recommend. Some sink manufacturers actually private label certain ultra-fine abrasives to clean and buff their sinks. Take the time to call your manufacturer before you try to become a metal finisher of your own right!

Many manufacturers approve the following cleaners. Once again, check your product literature to see what they recommend. If you do not know the manufacturer, experiment on a small section of the sink to see what happens. I always recommend the sidewall of the sink which is closest to your body. Why? Because you don't readily see that surface unless you bend over and look down at it.

Soft Scrub, Shiny Sinks, Bar Keepers Friend, Inox Cream, Cameo Stainless Steel Cleaner

Column B156

Carpet Pads Insulating Underlayment

Posted on by Tim Carter

Carpet Pads / Cushions Insulating Underlayment

Carpet pads or cushions literally make or break a carpet. I must admit that I did not fully understand the importance of carpet cushion until I did the research for this column. Once it was explained to me, it made perfect sense. I'll try to do the same for you in this short space.

Carpet Backing

Carpets are simply thousands of threads or fibers that are held in place by a backing. The threads or pieces of fiber are sewn through the backing. If the backing flexes or bends too much, the fibers become loose. The same thing can happen if there is no flex to a carpet backing. The fibers can actually come out of the backing. If this happens, the carpet looks worn and it can actually fall apart.

Cushions are the Foundation

A carpet cushion works to absorb the impact of foot traffic on carpets. This keeps the fibers tightly bound into the backing. However, if you allow the backing to flex too much by using a thick pad, the backing can actually stretch or break allowing the carpet fibers to separate from the backing. You walk a fine line in order to preserve the carpet integrity.

Thinner is Better (Often)

It stands to reason that a thinner carpet cushion will flex less than a thicker cushion. If you want your new, expensive carpet to last in high traffic areas such as stairways, hallways, or other high volume traffic areas, select a thinner, denser cushion (no thicker than 3/8 inch). This will protect your carpet.

Carpets Over Concrete Slabs

The stimulus for this column and bulletin was based upon several letters I received from people whose houses sit on slabs. They complained about cold floors in the winter time. Upon researching the topic I found that you can insulate beneath a carpet quite effectively. Not only will the carpet cushions act as insulators, you can also install a fantastic recycled fiberboard insulation product.

The fiberboard insulation product is comprised of recycled newspaper. It is extremely dense and offers an R value of 1.2 for a 1/2 inch thickness. This means that if you install this fiberboard and then use a 1/2 inch prime urethane cushion, you can achieve an R-value of 3.3 beneath a carpet. That is an outstanding accomplishment. Cold carpeting or floors will be a thing of the past.

Sound Control

Carpet cushions and the above mentioned insulating board will also help control noise. This may be a consideration if a bedroom is over a family room. It may also be helpful in an office or light commercial environment. Carpet itself helps absorb the air borne sound waves. However, a cushion beneath a carpet will further absorb and dampen the vibrations which transmit noise to another room or space. If you are building a new home and are concerned with sound transmission between floors, you should pay close attention to the sound deadening properties of the insulation board coupled with a resilient cushion.

Selecting a Carpet Cushion

All too often homeowners pay little or no attention to their carpet cushion or pad. They let the sales person do this task. It can be a costly mistake. However, as you continue to read this bulletin, you will find it is not necessarily a simple decision.

The carpet cushion industry formed an association to help promote the benefits and importance of carpet cushion. They have some excellent literature which I suggest you read. One article in particular is a must. It is titled Benefits Of Carpet Cushion. It tells you exactly the minimum type and specifications of carpet cushion to select for each room of your house. I suggest you check this article and one titled Cushion Criteria on their website under Consumer Info.

Carpet Cushion Council
P.O. Box 546
Riverside, CT 06878
203-637-1312
www.carpetcushion.org

 

Insulating Fiberboard

As hard as I tried, I could only locate one manufacturer of carpet insulating fiberboard. That is not to say another is not out there. However, one New Jersey company specifically manufactures and markets a board for this purpose. They have great literature. The Carpet and Rug Institute is in the process of certifying this underlayment. Call the manufacturer and ask about ComfortBase.

Homasote Company
Box 7240
West Trenton, NJ 08628-0240
800-257-9491

 

Carpet Cushion Insulating Values

The following is a listing of the thermal performance of carpet cushions. You will notice a huge difference among different types. The values listed are R-values. R value is a measure of resistance to heat loss. To put the cushion values into perspective, ordinary fiberglass wall insulation has an R value of a little over 3 per inch - 11 for 3.5 thickness.

Cushion Type Ounces per Square Yard R- Value
Rubberized Jute 40 oz.
50 oz.
56oz.		 0.97
1.55
1.73
Synthetic Fiber 20 oz.
28 oz.
36 oz.		 0.99
1.00
0.98
Rubber
(Waffle Pattern)		 56 oz.
64 oz.
90 oz.
100 oz.		 0.63
0.61
0.63
0.67
Rubber
(Smooth)		 62 oz.
68 oz.
80 oz.
100 oz.		 0.21
0.36
0.36
0.59
Bonded Urethane
Foam		 1/2 inch thick 1.86
Prime Urethane . 1/4 inch
3/8 inch
7/16 inch
1/2 inch		 . 1.11
1.63
1.86
2.10

Data courtesy of the Carpet Cushion Council, P.O. Box 546, Riverside, Connecticut 06878, 203-637-1312 Send them a regular#10 self addressed stamped envelope and ask for free carpet cushion information!

Carpet Cushion Types / Descriptions

A huge majority of carpet cushions will fit into one of the below categories. As you might expect, there are different grades of material within each category. The higher grades are often used in commercial installations where foot traffic over carpet is extreme. Be sure to ask what will do best in your residential application. As with most things, higher cost often means better quality.

Fiber Carpet Cushions

Perhaps you have seen a fiber pad before. Possibly it was a natural fiber pad such as jute or animal hair. You can also purchase synthetic fiber cushions and ones that are resinated recycled textile fiber. These cushions tend to produce a firm foundation for the carpet. The grade of this type of cushion is measured by ounces of cushion per square yard.

Sponge Rubber Cushions

Sponge rubber cushions come in two basic types: flat or waffled. The flat cushions tend to be stiffer or more firm than the rippled or wavy cushions. Once again, the grade is measured in ounces of rubber per square yard.

Prime Urethane Foam Cushions

Now it gets confusing! You can purchase three types of prime urethane cushion: conventional prime, grafted prime, and densified prime cushion. The first two (conventional and grafted) are made by mixing chemicals to produce the urethane. There is a wide range available. They have different densities and different levels of firmness. You will have to consult with the carpet people to see what will work best for you.

Densified foam is a special cushion which can be made to certain specifications. If a carpet company needs a cushion with a specific density, this can happen using this material. Its grade is determined by foam density or weight of foam per cubic foot.

Bonded Foam Cushions

These are the types that most people are familiar with. Bonded foam cushions are multicolored in nature. Shredded pieces of urethane foam are fused together into a giant sheet. As with all of the other cushions, density is measured by weight per square yard of material.

Frothed Urethane Foam

These are commonly higher density foam cushions. Urethane is bonded to a non-woven sheet of material much like the foam backings you find on padded carpeting. They can give a nice, firm foundation for carpeting.

Carpet Cushion Buying Tips

The greater the traffic which will traverse the carpet, the thinner the cushion should be! Select a cushion no thicker than 3/8 inch. Purchase as much weight per square yard as you can afford.

Bedrooms, dens, and other low traffic rooms can have a thicker cushion. A 1/2 inch cushion will deliver high resiliency and protect the carpet if it has a high density.

Don't cut costs on the cushion or buy it because it looks nice. The cushion is the foundation of the entire system! Laying an expensive carpet over the top of a cheap cushion is nonsense. Don't be swayed by a salesperson. Ask about density, weight, etc. If the salesmen looks puzzled, go to another store!

Column B151

Painting Cabinetry

Posted on by Tim Carter

Painting Cabinetry
Brushes & Tool Cleanup Tips

Paint is a very interesting material. Is reminds me of a show I used to watch on television as a child. A friendly witch would twitch her nose and presto, something would change (usually for the better)! Paint isn't as fast, but it can really transform an object, room, or set of cabinets.

What's more, if you incorporate multiple colors, stenciling, or specialized painting techniques, you can really accomplish some inexpensive redecorating.

Common Complaints

Painting cabinets can lead to problems. There are two primary reasons for this: surface contamination and previous gloss or slick surfaces.

Surface contamination (a fancy term for dirt, cooking grease, old food, dust, etc.) interferes with the ability of paint to hold onto the new surface. If you paint a dirty surface, the paint sticks to the dirt, not the surface below the dirt. Peeling paint is a reality. I have seen it happen many times.

Previously painted or stained kitchen cabinets almost always have a slick or glossy surface. Why? Because this makes them easier to clean. A glossy surface doesn't have those microscopic grooves that trap dirt. This is great for cleaning, but bad for paint! Paint needs lots of tiny grooves or scratches to grab onto.

Successful paint jobs are based on thorough preparation. Clean, sand, fill all holes, caulk where necessary and your paint job will really look professional.

Small Surface Area - Big Project!

Painting kitchen cabinets is a tough job. I can paint 2 bedrooms in the time it takes to do an average set of cabinets. To achieve really good results on cabinets, you need to break them down. This means removing all hardware (door knobs, hinges, drawer pulls, etc.). Skip this important step and your paint job will suffer!

Once the hardware is removed it is time to clean and sand. Any name brand liquid soap will do just fine. However, DON'T immerse the wood in water or subject it to excessive water, especially raised panel doors. Water can get in hidden spaces and cause swelling, warping, twisting, etc.! Use damp sponges or rags to clean. Rinse immediately and dry with a dry rag. Do not let the cabinets air dry.

Sand with medium sand paper to roughen up the surface. Coarse sandpaper can be too harsh and cause deep scratches. On wide open spaces use a sanding block or vibrating sander to maintain a level sanding surface. Sand paper in your hands is a mistake. You will sand more areas than others, trust me.

 

Click here to watch a video on painting those kitchen cabinets.

 

Choose Your Weapon ....

It is time to paint. What will you use? Most choose ease and convenience - water based paints. Why? Because they think it is easier to clean up when using water based paints. Well, that is not necessarily so. More on this later.

Oil based and water based paints will produce superior results. However, many experts will agree that oil based finishes will yield a glossier surface and will harden more rapidly than water based finishes. These are important characteristics if you want clean cabinetry as well as a functioning kitchen in a short period of time.

To Prime or Not to Prime .......

This is a tough call. If you are painting over a clear finish like urethane or varnish, it is mandatory that you use a bonding primer. If you are painting over previously painted surfaces that will require two coats, then it is a great idea. If you are just applying a fresh coat of the same color or nearly so, then you might be able to get by with a top coat only. Be sure to clear this move with the manufacturer. Check the label of the finish paint. See what it has to say about the use of a primer. When in doubt, always read instructions (That's a joke! Read before acting at all times!).

Remember, primers are formulated to bond well to the surface being painted. They also are made to even out the texture between bare wood and painted wood. Primer/sealers will also even out porosity in the event that bare wood has been exposed during sanding.

Final Gratification

This is what everyone always want to do first - paint. It is really the second last step in the process. The application of paint is an art. Most people that I watch paint do a miserable job. Why? Because they were never really taught. They think that anyone can do it. Well, anyone can do it, but not necessarily well!

Let's do the doors and drawer fronts first. We can really make up some time with these articles first.

If you are using oil based paint, you will need two brushes: a 1.5 inch and a 2 inch wide brush. Buy the 1.5 inch one as a tapered brush. Be sure they are china bristle or a synthetic fiber brush that is suitable for oil! If you use water based paints, NO china bristle brushes! You will ruin them with the water. It swells the natural hair bristles.

Oh yes, we also need a roller pan and a small 2 or 3 inch wide fine nap roller. What? You are confused? You mean to tell me that you have never used a small roller to apply trim paint? See what I mean by everyone thinking they could paint....! Come on now, don't go away angry....

We are going to use the roller to apply the paint on any flat surface which will accept paint from the roller. The brush is used to smooth the paint after it is applied.

Painting Doors

Raised panel doors should be painted from the inside out. In other words, paint the flat center area first. Then paint the beveled areas of the raised panel. Finish the outer frame last.

Detailing is everything. See where one piece of wood joins another? Those are the same places that brush strokes should end and begin. Speaking of brush strokes, do you know how to avoid them on long pieces of wood work? It is easy.

You avoid brush strokes by working from an unpainted area towards an area that was just painted. The final brush stroke is towards the painted area. Just as you finish the stroke you gently lift the brush off the surface while your arm is still moving. You will see the lift off mark for a few moments, but if you have a great self leveling paint, it will disappear!

As soon as the door is painted, set it flat on a can or some other surface that is smaller than the door. This will allow you to get all edges painted. It will also reduce the risk of runs in case you put too much paint on. If you set the door on the floor, on paper, etc. the paint at the edges will stick and cause a big mess.

Drawers - A Piece of Cake

Paint the drawers in the same fashion. Set them on end to allow the paint to dry. Try not to get too much paint inside the knob or handle holes. If you do, remove the paint with toothpicks as soon as possible.

Let's talk about open time for a moment. High gloss paints require that you keep a wet edge. If you try to paint too large an area and the paint starts to set, you will have problems when you try to blend the fresh paint to the drying paint. Flat wall and ceiling paints are very forgiving. If you are used to this, you had better get ready for a BIG surprise. Paint one door or one drawer from start to finish. DON'T try to get an assembly line going with that roller. Cover the roller pan or brush with aluminum foil to minimize exposure to air if you are worried about the paint drying.

Paint Indoors or in a Garage

Paint the doors and drawers in a covered area. Avoid direct sunlight and breezes. You will find it easier to keep the before mentioned "wet edge".

Cabinet Frames - Gravy!!

The cabinet frame is a cinch. Use the roller on the flat fronts. Use that tapered brush for all tight spots and cutting in against walls and countertops. Remember, no brush strokes!

Paint Brushes - Types & Tips for Lifetime Service

Paint brushes are like anything else. There are different types and different levels of quality. There is absolutely no one Wonder Brush that works for all paints and surfaces.

One thing is for sure, if you currently have or purchase a pure china bristle brush, you can not use it with water based paints or clean it with water. It will ruin it. The natural animal bristles will swell when they come into contact with water. The oils in oil based paint do not cause this same problem.

Some synthetic brushes are multi-purpose. They can be used with either oil or water based paints. However, you must read the label to make sure the brush can be used for oil and water paints. Always choose the brush for the surface. In other words, DON'T use a wimpy 1.5 inch brush for painting clapboards on a house! That calls for a 3.5 or 4 inch brush. You will wear out a small brush on a large surface.

Never try to clean a brush with hot solvents or liquid brush or paint removers! This will absolutely ruin the body or strength of the bristles.

DON'T hammer the brush on any surface. Never hammer the ferrule, or metal band against anything. This band is what holds the bristles in place! If you distort it, you can loosen the bristles.

Never allow a brush to "stand" on its bristles in a bucket or paint can. You can bend them permanently. Use the hanger hole found in the end of every brush.

DON'T allow a brush to "finger". This happens when the bristles separate into clumps when cleaning. It is a sure sign that paint is still present up near the ferrule.

NEVER turn a brush upside down into the flow of water from a faucet! This will bend bristles back and permanently ruin the brush. Proper cleaning information is just below - keep reading......

After cleaning, always store the brush in the cardboard protective casing. What? You threw it away? What were you thinking? Those things are nifty. They really do a wonderful job of protecting brushes in between painting jobs. Make sure you keep that cardboard wrap the next time.

Author's Note: I have a wonderful step-by-step EBook that shows you how to get professional results when painting cabinets. It is easy to follow and affordable. Plus, you get the EBook instantly!

Paint Tool Cleaning Tips

Preventative Measures

Are you going to paint with water based paints? If so, get your brush wet and remove excess water before you dip it in the paint can! This will prevent the paint from drying up near the ferrule. This is where many problems start with cleaning brushes. You can do this same thing with paint thinner and china bristle brushes.

Cleaning More Than Once

Who says you have to wait until the end of each day to clean a brush? If you want to really preserve an expensive brush, you may choose to clean it or partially clean it when you take a break or eat lunch. Rig up a 5 gallon bucket with water and a stick over the top. Suspend the brush from the stick so that just the bristles are immersed in the water. You can do this same thing with oil paints, just use a small narrow vessel to limit the amount of paint thinner you use.

Cleaning Tools

A spinner and a curved scraper are the two tools you must buy. A curved scraper allows you to remove vast quantities of paint from rollers before the cleaning process. A spinner is a device that allows you to spin a brush or roller rapidly by pumping a handle. These devices work just like your washing machine in the spin cycle. The centrifugal force of the spinning throws out the paint contaminated solvent or water from deep within the brush or roller. You can clean a roller, for instance, in about 45 seconds with a spinner, I'm serious! Brushes take a little more time. Maybe 2 - 3 minutes.

Spin the paint out of the brushes or rollers inside a bucket. If not, you will have paint everywhere! When cleaning oil paint, use separate rinses, don't saturate the roller or brush each time you spin it with fresh thinner. This can get expensive. Save used paint thinner! The paint solids will settle to the bottom and the cloudy liquid is perfect for using the next time! Always comb brushes after they are clean and return them to the cardboard covers. Store roller covers on end to prevent pile crush!

Brush Cleaning Techniques

Brushes can be ruined if you turn them upside down and force water into the bristles. They can also be ruined if you bend the bristles by forcing the brush against the bottom of the sink. So how do you do it?

Take a one gallon can and fill it half way with warm water for latex paints. Rapidly shake the brush back and forth in the water without jamming the bristles against the bottom. Dump the water and do this again for about 10 seconds each cycle. Spin the brush every other cycle until the water remains clear in the can while shaking. You will be shocked how easy it is!

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Housewrap Air Barrier

Posted on by Tim Carter

Air Infiltration Barriers Housewraps
Manufacturers - Installation

Christmas in July. That is what I used to think when we put housewrap on a summertime project. In fact, I would, depending upon the outside temperature (if it was too hot, I would be grumpy), even make a big flat bow(using the seam tape) on the front of the house when the installation was complete. The housewrap, the colored tape for the seams, and the bow made a new home look like a big Christmas gift box.

Plastic Wrap - - That's It!

All of the new housewrap products are simply thin plastic in big rolls. There is poly this and poly that but the bottom line is that the plastics are specially formulated to stop air infiltration and act as a water barrier. Because they are plastic, you need to handle them differently and use special tapes, fasteners and care when installing. Without this care, you are wasting your time as well as future energy dollars.

The housewraps must not be compared to plastic food wrap you use in your refrigerator. These do not usually allow water vapor transmission. Housewraps, however, must be able to breathe. Water vapor created inside your house must not be blocked as it makes its way to the outside atmosphere. Some housewraps actually let water vapor pass between the fibers, while other have very tiny holes poked in them.

Felt Substitute? ... Maybe

Housewraps were introduced in the late 1970's. Prior to that the only way to prevent water from getting to wall sheathing or the inside of your house was to use asphalt saturated felt paper. It has a proven track record and is still used in many applications.

I renovated many a home in my career. Most of these houses had felt paper beneath the wood siding, cement stucco, or other outer covering. Sure, after 50 - 70 years the felt was brittle, but it could still repel water! In fact, in many instances, felt paper does a better job of keeping out water around the actual fasteners. Some of the plastic housewraps can and do leak if concentrated amounts of water are directed at fastener locations. As far as I'm concerned, this isn't a major problem, since the housewrap is not supposed to be the primary water barricade!

Tough To Compare Brands

If you are shopping for a housewrap, good luck! It is almost impossible to compare performance characteristics. Why, you ask? Because the manufacturers do not have to use the same testing procedures, that's why. Each manufacturer can use a test which makes their product look the best in each aspect of testing. Thus, you are comparing apples to oranges to onions.

Not to worry, however. All in all, just about any housewrap, properly installed, will significantly help you with regards to air & moisture infiltration.

Saving Energy

Housewraps save you energy by slowing down or stopping the movement of air through insulation. You know those R- values you hear so much about? Well, those R-values are achieved in test cells where there is virtually no air movement! Air moving through insulation lowers its R-value, plain and simple.

Installation Is Critical

If you think a bunch of bottom feeders are going to install your housewrap, you had better take the day off and supervise them! If the installation is sloppy, you are simply not going to achieve the many benefits these wonderful products offer.

The products must be installed so pieces higher on a wall overlap lower pieces. All holes, seams, edges, etc. must be taped. Flashing details at windows and doors are critical. Tight installation at inside corners is a must. Minimal exposure to sunlight is also important depending upon which product you choose. Just about every one of these plastic wraps begins to degrade when exposed to sunlight. Top performance occurs when you cover them rapidly with brick, siding, or stucco.

Whether you decide to build a new home or a room addition, seriously consider the use of these great products. They can save you money and prevent moisture problems. The old master builders who used felt knew what they were doing. We need to continue in their footsteps when building. Fortunately, we now have a product that can do just a little bit better than felt paper!

Air Barrier Installation Tips & Suggestions

Cheap Sunglasses ......

Have you got your air barrier? Is it a white product? If so, you had better get some sun-glasses. These products are brilliant white and will hurt your eyes, trust me! The darker products are definitely easier on the eyes.

Read The Instructions

You might know that I am a big fan of reading instructions. Not all housewraps install in the same fashion. Certain brands have a definite inside and outside face. Install it backwards and you might not get any water protection! Also, specific tapes have to be used for different housewraps. You can not simply use duct tape or masking tape!!! Nails are important. Some housewraps require large headed fasteners.

Start At The Bottom

Housewraps shed water. This means that the lowest level piece must be overlapped by successively higher pieces, much like roofing shingles. Also, the housewrap needs to overlap brick flashing. If you are using vinyl or wood siding, make sure the housewrap overlaps the top of the foundation. A 3/4 inch overlap will prevent water from getting on top of the foundation and into your house.

Proper Timing For Installation

Housewraps go in before the windows and doors! You simply cover over these openings as you install the material. After the house is wrapped, you come back and slice an X at the window/door locations from corner to corner. Wrap the material inside the opening, fasten to the face of the rough jamb, and trim off excess. Do not put nails within 4 inches of the top of the openings over windows and doors. Why? If your windows and doors come with preformed /flashed vinyl or aluminum nailing flanges, I would like to see you carefully slice the housewrap at the top of the window opening. Slide the window nailing flange (TOP ONLY!) under the housewrap. Tape it to the window after this is complete. This prevents water from getting behind the window.

Inside Corners

Watch those inside corners!! The house wrap MUST be very tight. If it pulls away because you do not nail it tightly in the corner, your bricklayers, and/or siding people will slice it!

Keep It Level

When you start, put one single nail at the top. Unroll 15 - 20 feet and align with the top of the foundation (1 inch over, remember!). After the housewrap is aligned, then nail. Nail sideways from top to bottom to remove wrinkles.

You will not be able to install housewrap by yourself. Count on using a minimum of one helper. It takes one person just to hold the roll and keep it taut.

Install the top of the housewrap between the top two wall plates if possible. If not, be sure the top is taped to the wall or else soffit downdrafts will keep you cold!!!

 

Manufacturers & Comparative Data

The following is a listing of manufacturers of air infiltration housewraps. Remember that there is NO uniform standard for comparing performance! Accckkkk!!! So, you need to look for which characteristic (air infiltration, tear resistance, UV degradation, water vapor transmission, etc.) is of most importance to you. All of the products will perform well in my opinion. They KEY to performance is based much more so on installation than the product itself. You can buy the best air barrier and it will be worthless if installed poorly.

 

  • ABTCO, Inc. ... 800-521-4250
    They make Prowrap. It is a perforated cross laminated polyethylene. Prowrap is 3 mils thick, white in color, and should not be exposed to sunlight for more than 6 months. ABTCO sells special sealing tape.

  • Amoco Foam Products ... 800-241-4402
    They make Amowrap. It is a perforated, polyolefin-coated woven polypropylene. Amowrap is 8 mils thick, green in color, and should not be exposed to sunlight for more than 12 months.
  • Celotex Corp. ... 813-873-1700
    Celotex makes Tuff Wrap. It is a perforated polyethylene-coated woven polyethylene. Tuff Wrap is 5 mils thick and white in color. It is a good idea to cover this stuff within 3 months.
  • Du Pont ... 800-44-TYVEK
    Du Pont makes Tyvek, the original housewrap. Tyvek is a spun bonded polyethylene. Tyvek is about 4.5 mils thick and brilliant white in color. It should not be exposed to sunlight for more than 4 months. 3M makes a special seam tape for Tyvek. It is fire engine red.
  • Parsec, Inc. ... 800-527-3454
    They make Airtight Wrap. It is a perforated, cross laminated polyethylene. It is blue in color and 4 mils thick. You can leave this product exposed for about 4 months.
  • Raven Industries ... 800-635-3456
    Raven makes Rufco-Wrap. It is a perforated, cross laminated polyethylene. Rufco-Wrap is white in color and 3 mils thick. Evidently, it can be exposed to sunlight for up to 6 months.
  • Reemay, Inc. ... 800-321-6271
    Reemay makes Typar. Typar is a perforated spun bonded polypropylene coated polypropylene. It is silver colored and is about 7 mils thick. Reemay says that you can leave it in the sun for a long (unlimited) time without damage.

 

Air Leak Alternative Product

By now you figured out that air leakage occurs primarily at joints - where things abut one another. So, you might ask, why not simply tape these joints? Well, good idea! One company makes a product that claims to be able to do just that. Benjamin Obdyke 800-523-5261 makes a tape called Gap Wrap. It sticks to virtually anything and is applied using a handy dispenser just like you see people use to tape shipping boxes. The reasoning behind this product is sound - i.e. tape the gaps where air is entering. However, I feel that the installation of a water barrier is just as important. This tape method does not address this concern. If you tape over plywood joints, the plywood is still exposed behind brick veneer, vinyl siding, and/or wood siding. Water that gets behind these things can and will rot cellulose based products.

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