Cultured Stone® Installation Guidelines

Posted on November 22, 2005 by Tim Carter

The Basics

The installation of Cultured Stone® products is really quite simple. You generally only need basic tools such as a hammer, a tin snips, mason's trowel, level, metal jointing tool or wood stick, groutbag, nippers, hatchet, and a whisk broom. A wheelbarrow and a hoe is preferred as well to mix and transport mortar.

Each manufacturer has specific guidelines for their product, but for the most part, the installation guidelines are very similar to the following.

These products are installed in a fresh bed of mortar which is spread onto a wall surface. In all instances, except for fresh or absolutely clean, unsealed masonry walls, expanded diamond mesh lath must be nailed securely to the wall. Prior to installing the mesh, the wall must have an approved moisture barrier such as asphalt saturated felt paper or waterproof Kraft building paper.

When the stone is to be applied on an exterior wall surface, the mesh and all nails must be galvanized. This is very important, as the use of non-galvanized metals can cause two major problems: For one, the stone might fall off the wall if either the mesh or the nails rust, and prior to this failure you will surely see rust stains through the mortar.

If you have a new, or sandblasted, masonry wall that is structurally sound, you can eliminate the mesh. Painted or sealed masonry walls must have mesh applied.

After the mesh is applied, you simply apply a 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick coat of fresh mortar onto the mesh. Only apply mortar to the mesh where you can apply stone within a few minutes. You then butter the back of the stones and press them into place.

For the best results, the stones must be trimmed so that the mortar joints between the pieces do not exceed 3/4 inch. If the wall happens to be a UL listed firewall, the joints can not exceed 1/2inch.

Spectacular results can be achieved by using colored mortar. The setting mortar should be colored as well as the mortar which is used to fill in between the pieces of stone after they are set. This joint mortar is applied using a grout bag. A grout bag is just like the bags a baker uses to apply decorative icing to cakes, only it's bigger.

After the mortar between the joints has hardened sufficiently, you can either strike the joints with a metal tool or use a stick. It simply depends upon the look you want to achieve. The final touch is to brush the joints lightly with a whisk broom. Never brush the joints until the mortar has completely set. If you brush too soon, you will smear mortar on the rocks.

The best way to see what your job will look like is to have your mason build a test panel for you. Build a quick 4 x 6 foot wall and have it covered with stone with the joints completed. This would cost just slightly over $200 in most markets. The benefit is that you can see exactly what the stone will look like on a large surface. It s a good insurance policy!

Column B358

Removing a Low Ceiling

Posted on November 22, 2005 by Tim Carter

Dear Tim: We want to remove the low ceiling in the living room in a small cottage to give it more space and hang fans. We thought we could just paint the rafters and panel the roof. The problem is the boards between each rafter. Can these be removed or will this cause the rafters to warp or cause structural damage? Carl Gardner, Illinois

Dear Carl: The boards you refer to are probably the collar ties. They form the base of the triangle that forms the typical gable roof. These boards are a critical structural element, but they can be placed in different locations on the rafters and perform the same task as they do now. The only way to get a decision is from a residential structural engineer who knows how to analyze the bearing loads on the roof system.

Be sure that you install the new collar tie first before removing the existing one. Pay particular attention to any nailing schedule the engineer specifies. Install the nails and/or bolts exactly as indicated. If you are required to use bolts, drill the exact same size hole as the diameter of the bolt. You will need to hammer the bolt through the hole, but you want a snug fit so there is no movement between the rafter and the horizontal collar tie.

Column QA

Cultured Stone® Design Ideas

Posted on November 22, 2005 by Tim Carter

Cultured Stone® Design Ideas and Suggestions

The possibilities of using Cultured Stone® are virtually unlimited. For example, let's say you always wanted a rustic stone fireplace wall in your family room. Well, just do it with stone! You simply nail the wire mesh up over your drywall or paneling and get to work. How about a stone wet bar in your basement? How about turning your entire office or study into a medieval interior room of a castle? How about the side walls of a circular staircase? Have you seen those wood-sided chimneys in condominium complexes? Well guess what, that siding can be taken off and stone applied in a jiffy!

How about a garden wall? Simply construct a concrete block wall (remember, it doesn't have to be absolutely perfect) and face it with stone. Most companies make special cap pieces so the top of the wall is covered as well. This way the wall appears to be solid stone. How about a stone covering for the walls surrounding your garbage cans or the complex dumpster?

Have you ever thought of installing a cut stone wainscoting in a living or dining room? They can be very impressive. How about stone pillars between sections of a wood privacy fence?

Do you like cobblestone walkways or driveways? If so, install one with artificial stone! How about a brick paver entrance hall? What do you think of cobblestones applied in between strips of oak flooring? Yes, I thought you might like it as well. Think of it, the possibilities are endless!

Column B358

Door Closes on Its Own

Posted on November 22, 2005 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I have several interior doors in my house that are driving me nuts. The doors will not stay open. When you open one of the doors completely and walk away, the door slowly closes. Another door opens all the way on its own when I want it to stay partially closed. I do not want to have to use a traditional door stop. This problem is not caused by wind as it happens even when all windows are closed. Is there a way to stop the doors from moving on their own? Jenni W., Fresno, CA

DEAR JENNI: Doors that move on their own are a fairly common problem. Heavy solid-core doors are usually the most likely to swing open or closed as the weight of the door can have lots of potential energy if the door is slightly out of level.

To stop the doors from moving, the trick is to create more resistance in the hinges. I have stopped doors from swinging shut on their own by bending the hinge pin. In rare cases you will have to bend more than one hinge pin. Bending a hinge pin is accomplished with a hammer and a flat piece of concrete.

Locate some shims or scrap pieces of wood you can use to gently slide under the door at its lower corner under the door handle. This important step prevents stress on the door and its hinges as you begin to remove one of the hinge pins. Use a hammer and a flat-blade screwdriver to carefully drive the top hinge pin up and out of the top hinge.

Take the hinge pin and hammer outdoors, to a garage or a basement and place it on a concrete floor. Lay the hinge pin on its side on the floor and strike the middle of the pin with the hammer. This will put a nice bend in the hinge.

Tap the hinge pin back into the hinge and operate the door. The bent hinge pin should produce enough resistance that the door will not move unless you or someone else operates it. If it does still move ever so slightly, you may have to bend one or more additional hinge pins.

In my January 8, 2013 Newsletter, I provided another Door Adjustment Tip. Click on the link to read that newsletter.

Repair Cracked Concrete Slab

Posted on November 20, 2005 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: The ground level concrete slab in my 30-year old split level home has a few large cracks in it. These cracks are up to 1/4-inch wide and they move up and down with the change of the seasons. Over the past five years, the cracks seem to be getting bigger ever so slowly, but there is no evidence of structural problems on any foundation wall or at any other part of the house. I would like to install wood or cork flooring over the concrete, but I realize the crack must be repaired. What is the easiest thing to do and will give lasting results? Is there a way to stop the seasonal movement of the slab? Lisa P., Boulder. CO

DEAR LISA: Although you don't see any structural problems, they may be present or in the early stages of development. Hiring a residential structural engineer, to do a field visit to your home, may be a very smart thing to do before you move forward with any repairs. The seasonal movement is a strong clue as to what might be happening. Your house may be built on an expansive clay soil.

These epoxy-injection products weld broken pieces of concrete together. If you follow directions, the repair can often be permanent. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

As I was working to get my college degree in geology, I quickly discovered that certain rock formations create clay soils that can expand and contract dramatically in response to moisture content. These expansive clays are also found in some parts of the USA that experienced continental glaciation. The pesky soils can wreak havoc with poorly constructed homes and cause minor irritation with well-built structures. But if you trick the soils into thinking that it rains every week, they calm down and stop moving.

In addition to calling the structural engineer, you might also call the local colleges and universities in your area that have a geology department. Once you get this far, ask for a soil scientist. If you run into a dead end, you can open the Yellow Pages and look for geo-technical engineers. I am confident you will find one. Ask the geology professor, and/or the geo-technical engineer, if your house is located in an area know for expansive clay soils.

If it is, you need to think about stabilizing the soil before you proceed with any repairs. One method, that works well in my area, is to drill two-inch diameter holes 18 to 24 inches deep into the soil around your home. Space the holes about three feet away from the edge of the foundation if possible and drill one hole every six linear feet. Fill the holes to the top with small rounded gravel that is 1/4-inch in diameter. Lay a soaker hose over these holes and allow water to run for 24 hours so water soaks deeply into the ground. Run the water once a week during your dry seasons.

Once the soil is stabilized and you see that the slab is no longer moving, you can proceed with permanent repairs. Since the cracks are 1/4-inch wide, the job should be fairly easy. You can purchase high-strength epoxies that are designed to be injected into cracked concrete slabs from special concrete supply businesses. If you follow the directions and do the job right, the repairs can be permanent.

The finished epoxy repair is very similar to a welded seam between two steel plates. Often the weld is stronger than the actual steel. The same is true for the epoxies as they can have fully cured-strengths in excess of the actual concrete.

After the epoxy has fully cured, you may have to install a thin concrete overlay over part of the slab to mask any unevenness between the cracked portions of the concrete. This overlay mixture is made from one part Portland cement and 2.5 parts of fine sand. Be sure the slab is dust free and clean. I would recommend you lightly wet the slab immediately before applying the mixture of cement and sand.

Want perfect concrete work? Find a pro by using my Concrete Work (Sidewalks, Driveways, Patios & Steps) Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

Use a six-foot long straightedge to create wide feathered areas of overlay on either side of the crack. You can use a regular steel trowel to finish this stucco-like material as it begins to set up. It is important the floor be as smooth and even as possible as imperfections can telegraph through cork flooring.

If you have seen mud puddles dry up in your area and large cracks develop in the still-moist clay, you live on or near expansive clay soils. What most people do not realize is the clay is not only shrinking from side to side, it is also losing volume up and down. This seesaw movement is not appreciated by materials such as concrete that are rigid and crack when stressed.

Smart builders who build houses with shallow foundations or houses on slabs can install piping under and around the foundation that allows homeowners a method of getting water into the soil quickly and efficiently. The trouble is, most builders don't have a geology degree and most building codes do not require this inexpensive piping.

How To Install Drywall

Posted on November 20, 2005 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: What is the proper way to drywall? Should I butt the pieces of drywall very close together or leave a space between pieces of drywall? Anne S., Tampa, FL

DEAR ANNE: The proper way to install drywall is to butt pieces together tightly. Do this on all flat surfaces such as walls and ceilings. But in corners, I always cut the drywall so there was a one-eighth to one-quarter-inch gap between the two pieces as they meet in a corner. If you try to cut drywall so it fits tightly in corners, you will get frustrated in a big hurry.

The frustration is caused by the rough cut edge of the drywall. When you score a piece of drywall with a razor knife and then snap it in two, the resulting edge is rough. These bumps often stick past your pencil line or razor cut line making the piece of drywall longer than what you want it.

The rough bumps can be quickly removed with a special, small rasp. Professional sheetrock hangers always have one of these in their tool belt. This is a secret trick not often seen by do-it-yourselfers. But rasping off the edges does create additional dust, so keep this in mind.

Remodel or Rebuild

Posted on November 18, 2005 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My husband and I got a sweet deal on a 50-year old home built by my grandfather on a 5.5 acre, lake view lot. The 1,000 square foot house had been neglected for years and we have installed a new roof, refinished hardwood floors and kitchen cabinets and lots of other cosmetic work. But there are still serious wood rot issues, cracked brick, etc. Is it better to continue remodeling and adding new rooms or should we rebuild? Amanda B., Byrdstown, TN

DEAR AMANDA: Every situation is different and there are perhaps 20 key variables that factor into making a wise decision as to whether or not it is better to remodel an existing home or scrape it from the lot and start over. But you have already provided one very important clue that may be the tipping point with respect to rebuilding the home.

This single story house had its top popped. The roof was removed and the second story added in a matter of days.. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

My father-in-law taught me years ago that nothing enhances the value of real estate like a view of water. The fact that your large piece of land has a lake view and you purchased it for a low price could work in your favor if you get an accurate appraisal as to the amount of equity you might have in the property at this time. There is a distinct possibility that you could be sitting on top of a real estate gold mine. I realize you have already invested time and money in starting to fix up the home, but you may discover that it is a much better investment to put money into a slightly larger mortgage payment.

The first thing you need to do is make a realistic list of the amount of space you and your family need. Try to plan towards the future if you feel your family size will grow. A 1,000 square foot home works for some people, but you may discover you need a larger home to fit family, guests and visiting relatives.

If you discover that you need an additional 900 square feet of living space, the challenge will be how and where to add it. It is not uncommon to pop the top off of a home and add a second story. Professional remodelers do this on a regular basis and often the disruption to your existing home is minimal. But if you decide that room additions that bolt on to the sides of your home are better, then be sure you end up with a floor plan that really works and rooms that are the right size.

Another clue you provided that will help you and any remodelers who visit is the state of the existing structure. Your comments about the cracked brick and wood rot lead me to believe that perhaps your dear old granddad might not have been the world's best builder. Many lake houses I have seen were built in places that did not enforce a building code and the construction standards were minimal. There is no doubt your grandfather had great intentions, he just might have been handicapped by a lack of experience.

The point is you can't always turn a sow's ear into a silk purse as cheaply as you can build a new home. The fact that your lot is so large gives you lots of latitude with respect to placing a new home either close to the existing one or possibly on a more ideal spot on the lot that might take better advantage of the view towards the lake.

One strong possibility is locating a modular home builder in your area. You may discover that you can have a brand new home that is ready for occupancy in as little as eight weeks. The newer modular homes look just like a site-built home and many are very well constructed. If you decide to do this, be sure you look at plenty of plans that afford expansive views on the side of the home that faces the lake. A great plan on a superb lot will help you build even more equity into the future.

The ever-rising energy costs also factor into these decisions. An older home may have countless air leak locations, inefficient insulation, old windows and doors, etc. These functionally obsolescent components can force you to spend hundreds if not thousands of extra dollars per year to keep your house reasonably comfortable. A newer energy-efficient home with state-of-the-art windows, heating and cooling equipment, etc. allows a homeowner to redirect those same dollars to a mortgage payment on a newer home.

Quality of life issues also should be considered. Repairs, things that breakdown, growing honey-do lists add to the stress of daily life. Arguments between spouses about repairs that go undone can lead to all sorts of problems. A problem-free new home can make people feel better about themselves and help build strong relationships. If you can afford to build the new home, you will never regret it.

Column 592

House Painting Tips

Posted on November 18, 2005 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: There is still some time left to paint my house before the weather turns. I have the time to do the job right and I would really like the paint job to last. I am interested in knowing any secret tips you have discovered that really make a difference. In other words, are there a few things I can do that will allow me to get the new paint job to last an additional five to seven years? Russell W., Riverside, CA

DEAR RUSSELL: There are several things you can do, all of them quite simple, that will extend the useful life of an exterior house painting job. Some of the tips you have heard before, but some may shock or surprise you. The ultimate exterior paint job, in my opinion, blends the best paint with attention to detail in all preparation steps before you even shake the can of paint and pop open its lid.

Caulk is a powerful weapon to stop water intrusion that can ruin a new house painting job. PHOTO CREDIT: Kathy Carter

How many homeowners do you think read the entire label on a paint can? If past emails I get are an accurate barometer, I would say less than 5 percent of the public truly reads and understands the instructions. Reading the label on the paint can is the first thing you should do. Pay particular attention to the advice given about compatible primers and the amount of time you must wait before you apply a second coat.

When you read the label, my guess is you will see language that tells you to apply the paint to a clean, dry surface. Unfortunately many people do not follow this critical advice. It is important to understand that paint is simply glue with color added to it. If you want glue to stick well to an object, it really helps if the surface is totally clean and is dust-free.

It is very tempting to use a pressure washer to rapidly clean the outside of your home. The trouble is, they don't always remove all of the dirt. You can prove this on your home or on a dirty car. Use a pressure washer and get the tip of it as close to the surface as you feel comfortable so as to avoid surface damage. Let the surface dry. Then come back and hand wash a section with soapy water using a sponge and/or mild scrub brush. I guarantee you will see a difference and the brush and sponge will remove dirt left behind by the pressure washer.

To make matters worse, these tools can inject water behind the exterior skin of your home and cause paint failure problems soon after the job is finished. Water that is driven deep into the structure will eventually make its way back out as a liquid or a gas and can cause bubbles, blisters and peeling in the brand-new paint.

Once all loose paint has been scraped off, look for cracks where water can enter the skin of your home. Caulk these cracks and wipe the water-based caulk with a damp sponge to produce a professional looking joint. Make sure the caulk tube says the caulk is paintable.

Priming new masonry surfaces or bare wood is very important. Even more important is covering the primer as soon as possible with the finish paint. If the primer says it can be top-coated with the finish paint in 24 hours or less, then do so immediately after the time has expired. The finish paint can actually bond both mechanically and chemically to the primer if you do not wait days and days to apply the finish paint. My advice is to only prime as much area as you can finish paint the following day.

If you are working with paint on an older home, be very cautious. Houses built on or before 1978 can be coated with paints that contain lead. It is estimated that there are tens of millions of homes that have lead paint on either their interior or exterior surfaces. Scraping, sanding and removing the paint can create lead dust which is very toxic and poisonous. The Environmental Protection Agency has very helpful tips at their website to help you deal with this hazard.

High-quality paint is easy to find. Look for products that have two important ingredients: urethane and acrylic resins. These two components are the glue part of the paint. Urethane is extremely sticky and once cured and dried, it acts much like epoxy. Paints that contain these resins can be found at national brand paint stores and at large retailers that have hardware and paint departments. Unfortunately I have not been able to locate these paints at home centers.

Avoid painting in direct sunlight and on windy days if possible. Direct sunlight can cause rapid drying which creates a skin over the freshly-applied paint. As the remaining water in the paint dries, the paint develops bubbles. Wind causes paint to dry too quickly and can stop some paints from achieving the best bond to the surface being painted.

Column 591

Duct Tape Comparison

Posted on November 18, 2005 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I have a love affair with duct tape and have found hundreds of uses for the product. But lately some of the duct tape I buy just doesn't seem to be like the duct tape I remember using five or ten years ago. Some rolls of tape seem less substantial. Plus, duct tape never seems to hold well to things like rough lumber, brick, concrete and other slightly rough surfaces. Why is that? Is there a really great duct tape you know of? Steve L., Altadena, CA

DEAR STEVE: Duct tape has rapidly gained a positive reputation for fixing things much like the image I have in my head for bubble gum being used as a repair compound in radios during WW II. Duct tape's design that combines a reinforced backing with wide pieces of tape allows it to really perform well when you compare it to traditional masking or clear cellophane tape. These lightweight tapes simply do not have the same characteristics that strong duct tape possesses.

Rolls of duct tape my be the same size and look alike, but believe me there is an enormous difference in performance and durability. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

Once you start to look closely at different duct tapes, you quickly learn there is a big difference between products. Common duct tape consists of three layers. There is a protective shell that you see once the tape is applied. The middle layer is a reinforced backing that often has threads of fiber going in two different directions. The final layer is the actual rubber-based adhesive.

Although most duct tapes have all three components, they are by no means the same. In fact, the difference is striking if you actually look at pieces of duct tape while they are held in front of a flashlight. The light allows you to actually see the number of reinforcing threads in the backing of the tape. Some tapes have far more threads more closely spaced than others.

Some manufacturers have stated they do make different duct tapes that are of different grades and quality. This may explain why you are finding duct tapes that seem thinner and less substantial. When taken into a lab, different brands or grades of tape reveal what you have discovered. The thickness of the adhesive layer on the tapes can range from 7.5 to 12 mils. That may not seem like a big difference unless you get out a calculator. The tape that has 12 mils of adhesive has 60 percent more glue than the cheaper tape!

Traditionally duct tapes have adhered very well to smooth surfaces. This happens because there is just enough adhesive to stick to the smooth surface area. But when traditional tape encounters an object that has a rougher texture, the dynamics change. The rougher surface presents a surface area far greater than what the adhesive on the tape can handle.

But those days are over as there is a new duct tape that in fact sticks very well to both smooth surfaces, concrete, brick, stucco, rough lumber and steel. This new wonder duct tape achieves this goal by boosting the amount of available adhesive on each strip of tape. There is plenty of adhesive to fill the small gaps and surface irregularities in these rougher objects.

There is 50 percent more adhesive on this new tape than the current best duct tape on the market. The new tape has 153 percent more adhesive than the low quality tapes you can find at the home centers. It is no wonder it sticks to so many things since there is an abundance of adhesive.

Keep in mind that the tapes must resist failure if you are really stressing them. Common duct tapes that you have been using for years often have tensile strengths of anywhere from 20 to 35 pounds per square inch of tape. The new high-performance duct tape boasts a tensile strength of 58 pounds per square inch.

Although nearly impossible to prove, there may be another reason why you have seen a degradation in quality of duct tape over the years. I have every reason to suspect that pricing pressure applied by large retailers to the actual tape manufacturers is partially to blame.

Think for a moment. If you were a manufacturer and a retailer told you the only way you would get an enormous order was to lower your price, what options do you have? One option is to extract higher efficiencies in the manufacturing process so your profit doesn't suffer. Another option is to lower your cost by using cheaper ingredients or less of the current ingredients you currently use.

Add to this the fact that a certain segment of the buying public will always buy the cheapest product in any given category. They may do it because that is all they can afford or they may do it thinking they are really saving money. It doesn't matter what the reason is, certain manufacturers decide they want to sell their product to these people. I can't really fault them.

Column 588

Simple Home Repairs

Posted on November 18, 2005 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: The recent rise in gasoline prices and the forecast for high heating fuel prices have me very worried. I have cut my driving to a minimum, but still the cost of a gasoline fill up is staggering. I need to save money in some other way. I have always been afraid to try home repairs for fear of messing up my home. Are there some things the average person can do with minimal skills and tools? What happens if I make a mistake? Susan B., Tawas, MI

DEAR SUSAN: The rise in prices for petroleum-based products such as gasoline, heating oil, etc. will continue to go up if we as consumers do little to cut consumption. Any first year student of economics knows that supply and demand for products are what set prices.

Repairing a toilet so it does not waste water can save you over $100.00. Do different repairs like this once a week and you will create money for fuel. PHOTO BY: Tim Carter

On a personal level, though, every gallon of gasoline or heating oil and/or cubic foot of natural gas that can be conserved will register as a lower demand so long as millions of us do it at the same time. This lowered demand will help drive prices down. So I am urging all I know to lower their thermostats this winter and buy more clothes to stay warm around the house. Investing in a bicycle for short local trips is also a good idea for many people to help cut back on gasoline usage.

As for saving money by doing repairs yourself, well I have great news for you. You can save thousands of dollars annually if you start with easy projects and begin to build the confidence to tackle larger jobs. Even people with limited hand-eye coordination can do many simple tasks.

For example, let's say your toilet flushing valve sticks open and you have to jiggle the handle to make the water stop running. If you call a plumber, it might generate a one-hour charge of labor that could cost $80 or more. Would you be shocked if I told you this can often be fixed with a $5.00 part and ten minutes of your time?

Repairs to doorbells, patching concrete, replacing doorknobs and patching holes in drywall and plaster are very easy to do and can often be accomplished in an afternoon. Each one of those projects can save you just under $100.00 or in some cases hundreds of dollars.

It is important to note that I am not trying to steal work from professional contractors. Since most of us have a finite amount of cash to spend each month, something has to give. If you still want to hire pros to do your work, then you will buy fewer new clothes, electronic products, food or entertainment. In other words, some other business will get hurt no matter what you do. It simply becomes your choice as to who and who does not get your dollars.

You may not believe it, but you can probably do very simple electrical repairs and save money. Replacing a standard switch or outlet is not hard and can be very safe if you follow established rules and tips as well as the National Electric Code. Good old common sense and some help from a friend or neighbor who has tackled electrical repairs is also a good idea for the beginner.

Exterior painting is also another area where you can save money. You may not feel safe on a ladder, but perhaps you can paint all of the parts of your home where no ladder is needed. First hire a painter who is willing to work with you to finish the parts you can't reach and let him do all of the high work first. Then you finish the job working from the ground. This sounds crazy, but I know of three painters who would absolutely work out a deal such as this.

If you make a mistake, do not panic. The key is to start with projects that will telegraph mistakes quickly. For example, if you try to patch drywall and the surface is rough because you added too much joint compound, you can see that right away. Scrape off the excess wet compound and start over. If you want your first drywall repair to turn out well, get a scrap piece of drywall and practice repairing it in your garage until your skills improve. Once you have the touch, move indoors and proceed with the real repairs.

One mistake you can make is stopping the flow of money to home repairs. Neglecting small repairs or putting them off until the trouble areas get worse can lead to very large repairs and in some cases, hidden damage. It is very wise to keep up with even the smallest home repair issues.

If you have to buy new tools to do repairs, buy quality tools. These tools often cost more money, but deliver professional results and are far easier to use than cheap ones that may seem more attractive.

Always read any enclosed instructions that come with any product you intend to install. Take the time to fully understand them before you start the job. All too often people neglect instructions and waste time and money. Money is not something that should be wasted at this point in time.

Column 586

Expert Advice For Your Home