How To Remove Wallpaper

Dear Tim: I was attempting to remove some old wallpaper and found the previous owners of our home had applied the wallpaper over the wallboard un-primed (or at least that is how it appeared). I pulled off a great deal of wall board facing right down to the plaster core.

Thanks to your columns on the subject of wall covering, I think I have made the proper repairs, re-plastered, used shellac to keep plaster from soaking and drying too quickly, used a wall covering primer to provide the correct surface for wallpaper. I am also planning to use a sizing to help with the application process - good idea?

My question - My days are very limited and I do not know if I have the opportunity to apply all the wallpaper in one day? Can I set-up and apply only 4-5 pieces of wallpaper one day, and then come back days later and apply some more, and keep this progression till I am finished? With all the discussion of shrinkage and stretching, and the necessity to 'book' the wallpaper, I wondered if this would effect the wallpaper. George B.

Dear George: It sounds as if you have done all of the right things in getting the walls ready for the next wallpapering job. As for sizing, you absolutely must do it. I use a paint-like product that once dry appears to be a semi-gloss paint. But it is indeed a wallpaper primer that functions as a traditional sizing compound.

The purpose of this product is to block the adhesive from making its way to a traditional plaster surface or to the paper facing of traditional drywall. If the tough glue does this, you know the horrible results. This paint sizing is easy to apply and dries quickly.

As for applying wallpaper on different days, there is no problem with that at all. You only paste up and book as many sheets of paper as you can hang in one hour. The way I do it is that I always have one piece of cut paper pasted and booked as I am hanging the one before it. As soon as I finish hanging a strip of paper, I then cut a new piece from the roll, apply the paste activator, book it and then set it aside. At this point I have two pieces of booked paper, the first one having been set aside perhaps 15 minutes before.

The paper will expand at the same rate each day so you will not have any matching problems whatsoever.

Restoring a Metal Firebox Damaged by Hurricane Katrina



DEAR TIM: My house was flooded with 4' of water during hurricane Katrina on 8-29-05. My built-in wood burning fireplace, which is a metal box, is starting to rust. Can I wire brush the rust and clean with a strong cleaner and avoid having to replace it? Walter B.

 

DEAR WALTER: You absolutely can clean the firebox and reuse it. The only thing that would be a reason to condemn it is if the metal firebox has developed a crack or hole that would allow embers or hot flue gases to bypass the box and enter anything other than the chimney.

The fire and draft created by a fire will help sanitize the unit. Do not bother to paint the firebox as the heat will destroy most common paints.

AsktheBuilder mp3 Radio Show Oct 22 2005

Each title below is a direct link to a downloadable mp3 file. Just click the title if you want to listen. Right click if you want to download into your computer to save and play at a later date.

The Copyright to all radio segments is owned by Tim Carter. I would love to know what you think of these radio segments. Do you like them? Do they help you? Have they saved you money and/or time? Let me know by sending me an email: [email protected]


Tim Does Phone Consults, Bad Drywall Problem

Detached Garage Structural Problems

Caller Comments About Detached Garage Structural Problems

Locating Fantastic Super- Duct Tape

Solving Poor Drainage Around a New Jersey Garden Room

Truss Uplift Solutions

Removing a Rusted Washing Machine Hose

Tim Goes to Google Zeitgeist

AsktheBuilder mp3 Radio Show Oct 15 2005

Each title below is a direct link to a downloadable mp3 file. Just click the title if you want to listen. Right click if you want to download into your computer to save and play at a later date.

The Copyright to all radio segments is owned by Tim Carter. I would love to know what you think of these radio segments. Do you like them? Do they help you? Have they saved you money and/or time? Let me know by sending me an email: [email protected]


Annetta the Producer Makes a Cameo Appearance

Tim in Colorado and Radiant Heating

Minimizing Air Infiltration

Exterior Paint Prep on an Old Brick Building

Finding Information About Sears Catalog Homes

WGRR Listeners Might Become Show Guests

Gas Fireplace Insert

Poor-Fitting Garage Door

AsktheBuilder mp3 Radio Show Oct 8 2005

Each title below is a direct link to a downloadable mp3 file. Just click the title if you want to listen. Right click if you want to download into your computer to save and play at a later date.

The Copyright to all radio segments is owned by Tim Carter. I would love to know what you think of these radio segments. Do you like them? Do they help you? Have they saved you money and/or time? Let me know by sending me an email: [email protected]


Meet Ryan the Show Producer

E-mails from Listeners

Post Office Truck Caravan

Mystery Odor in Home

Removing a Bathtub Drain

Resurfacing Concrete Steps

Fixing Self-Closing Door

Stop Blowing Snow in a Pole Barn

Bathroom Remodel Disaster

AsktheBuilder mp3 Radio Show Oct 1 2005

Each title below is a direct link to a downloadable mp3 file. Just click the title if you want to listen. Right click if you want to download into your computer to save and play at a later date.

The Copyright to all radio segments is owned by Tim Carter. I would love to know what you think of these radio segments.  Do you like them? Do they help you? Have they saved you money and/or time?  Let me know by sending me an email: [email protected]


Tim in Seattle at Wooden Boat Museum

Warning About Energy-Saving Product Claims

Spray-on Radiant Barrier Product

Installing Tyvek on an Existing House

Caring for Unfinished Hardwood Flooring

Locating a Good Structural Engineer

Strange Noises in a Wall

Vinyl Windows – Certified Manufacturers and Associations

Certified Manufacturers of Vinyl Windows - Associations

The AAMA Certification Label on a product tells customers that products have been verified as conforming to the ANSI/AAMA/NWWDA 101/I.S.2 standard's requirements through independent laboratory testing and follow-up on-site inspection of the manufacturer's production line.

Once certified, AAMA makes surprise visits to window factories. They walk in and simply take a randomly chosen window off the end of the assembly line. This window is shipped back to their labs for testing. If it fails, the window manufacturer can lose their certification.

The AAMA maintains an up-to-date list on its web site of all certified manufacturers of vinyl windows. The certification process is rigid and ongoing. Windows are periodically taken off assembly lines and tested by independent third party laboratories. The most recent guidelines are those written and published by the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) and AAMA. Each month, new manufacturers are certified for inclusion on this listing.

Associations

  • Window & Door Manufacturers Association
  • AAMA - American Architectural Manufacturers Association

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Vinyl Windows – Replacing Glass

Replacing Glass in Vinyl Windows

Crash! Tinkle...tinkle... The sound of breaking glass. Ordinarily, it is not a big problem for most windows. In the case of older wood windows, you remove the old putty and the remaining glass and install a new piece of glass. It isn't so easy with all modern windows.

For example, a major manufacturer of vinyl covered wood windows makes their windows in such a way that, should you break the glass, you must replace the entire sash! It is impossible to replace just the glass.

This is true with some vinyl windows as well. It can be a major cost and a major headache, if you purchase poor quality windows. Remember, we discussed color change in poor quality vinyl windows. What happens if you purchase a poor quality vinyl window that begins to yellow? What happens if the glass in that window can't be replaced? In other words, you have to buy a new blue-white sash to put into your yellow-white frame? Get the picture?

If you do have an issue with color, and your vinyl windows are white or off white, there is a new house paint that will stick to vinyl. You want to buy a house paint that has urethane and acrylic resins. The label will clearly state that and it will say the paint can be used on vinyl windows or siding. Be sure you follow ALL directions on the paint can label to prevent paint peeling.

High quality vinyl windows that allow you to replace just the glass are readily available. There is no need to replace the sash. Remember to ask about this feature when shopping for your new windows. Good luck on your next project!

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Low E Glass – Types and Benefits

Have you seen a new home lately? Well, I mean, have you looked at the windows from the outside at a distance?

Did they appear coated or colored like some new office building? If so, there probably was Low-E glass in the windows.

Low-E glass is one of the technological marvels of today's residential construction. Who would have thought years ago that glass could be coated with an ultra-thin layer of metal?

See-Through Metal Saves $$$

Who would have guessed that this metal coating would allow you to see through the glass and provide actual insulating value? Not me, that's for sure!

The E is for Emissivity

My Webster's Seventh New Collegiate Dictionary defines emissivity as "the relative power of a surface to emit heat by radiation." Emit means to "throw or give off."

Free & Fast BIDS

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local replacement window companies that install Low-E glass.

Okay, so Low-E glass obviously is a special glass that has a low rate of emission. In other words, if there is a heat source inside your house (or outside!), the glass bounces the heat from that object back away from the glass. So, in the winter months, if you have Low-E glass in your home, much of the warmth (heat) given off by the furnace and all the objects which the furnace has heated, is bounced back into the room.

In the summer, the same thing happens but in reverse. The sun heats things up (the air, sidewalks, driveways, next door neighbors bricks, etc.) outside of your house. This heat radiates from those objects and tries to get into your house. Of course, it tries to take the path of least resistance, that being the glass. With Low-E glass much of this heat bounces off the glass and stays outside.

The Two Types of Low-E

There are two types of Low-E glass: hard coat and soft coat. As you might imagine, they have different properties. In fact, they actually look different.

Hard coat Low-E glass is manufactured by pouring a thin layer of molten tin onto a sheet of glass while the glass is still slightly molten. The tin actually becomes "welded" to the glass. This process makes it difficult or "hard" to scratch or remove the tin. Often this glass has a blueish tint to it.

Soft coat Low-E glass, on the other hand, involves the application of silver, zinc or tin to glass in a vacuum. The glass enters a vacuum chamber filled with an inert gas which is electrically charged. The electricity combined with the vacuum allows molecules of metal to sputter onto the glass. The coating is fairly delicate or "soft."

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local replacement window companies that install Low-E glass.

Furthermore, if silver is used (and it often is) this coating can oxidize if exposed to normal air. For this reason, soft coat Low-E glass must be used in an insulated glass assembly. Sealing the soft coating in between two pieces of glass protects the soft coating from outside air and sources of abrasion. Also, the space between the two pieces of glass is often filled with argon gas. The argon gas inhibits oxidation of the metallic coating. It also acts as an additional insulator.

The two types of Low-E glass have different performance characteristics. The soft coat process has the ability to reflect more heat back to the source. It typically has a higher R value. R values are a measure of resistance to heat loss. The higher the R value of a material, the better its insulating qualities. Look at Table 1 for a comparison of R values and the different types of glass.

Table One - GLASS R VALUES

Type of Glass R Value
Single Pane regular glass 0.85
Clear Insulated Glass 7/8 inch overall thickness 2.08
Hard Coat Low-E insulated glass 2.45
Hard Coat Low-E insulated glass with argon 2.75
Soft Coat Low-E insulated Glass 3.50
Soft Coat Low-E insulated glass with argon 4.35

Table adapted from Great Lakes Windows pamphlet: Window Shopping - We've Got the Answers R values calculated by Cardinal® IG

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local replacement window companies that install Low-E glass.

Column B97

Low E Glass – Savings and Comfort

That Warm Feeling

Those of us who live in colder climates have often felt a draft or cool breeze when sitting near a window. Often there is minimal air actually leaking through or around the window. What in the world is happening?

Different glass assemblies can have widely different R values. (see table 1 in this linked article) You should be able to infer from this that the actual surface temperature of each type of glass might also be different. No doubt about it, they are.

If the surface of a window glass is much cooler than the surrounding room air, a circular convection current actually develops around the window. Room temperature air rubs up against the window, gets cold and this air falls to the floor (cold air is heavier than warm air.) This sets up a sort of spinning wheel of air around the window. If you are sitting near this window, you are in the midst of the moving air! The surface temperatures of different glass assemblies can be dramatic. For example, assume an outside temperature of 0 degrees and a stiff sustained wind of 15 mph blowing against the window. The inside surface temperatures of the different glass assemblies would be as follows:

Single pane 26 degrees
Regular double pane insulated glass 35 degrees
Hard coat Low-E 49 degrees
Soft coat Low-E 62 degrees

Obviously, the closer the glass temperature is to the actual room temperature the less convection there will be near the window. Low-E glass simply works.

Low-E Films

At least one residential window manufacturer - Hurd Millwork - has gone one step further. They have incorporated a special Low-E film in between two pieces of insulated glass. Often the air space between the film and each piece of glass is filled with an inert gas such as argon.

These windows apparently offer higher performance than even the best soft coat Low-E. If I were in the window market now, I would give this system a serious look.

Ultraviolet Light (UV)

All of the Low-E window glass products block UV light. However, some do a much better job than others. If UV degradation of fabrics, carpeting, furniture, etc. is a concern, then be sure to ask specific questions about the amount of UV light that the window blocks.

Some blockage percentages are high. Most of the manufacturers listed offer glass that blocks anywhere from 70 to 99.5 percent of the UV light from the sun. That is impressive.

In Conclusion

If you are shopping for windows, I highly recommend that you spend the extra money for Low-E glass. There is no doubt that you will recapture the extra money in fuel savings. You will also be more comfortable.

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