Finish Carpentry – Tricks and Pointers

The real test of carpentry comes when the work shifts indoors. Just about anybody can frame houses and do exterior carpentry. Sure there are expert framers, in fact, if you want to be an excellent rough carpenter you need to work as a finish carpenter for about nine to twelve months! Do this and you will see what headaches can be avoided with a few extra minutes spent getting walls square and plumb. This is especially true when it comes to hanging interior doors.

The Helix

Let's go off on a tangent quickly to prove my point. If you try to hang an interior door in a wall that is not only out of plumb but slightly twisted, the rough opening of the door is actually a helix. You can create a small example of a helix by taking a credit card and hold the four corners in your finger tips. Now slightly twist the card. That is a helix. Well, when it comes to hanging doors, you want the opening to be in the same plane. If it is not, one of two things will happen: If you want the door to fit perfectly against the door stop, then the jamb will be sticking out past the wall in one or more spots and it will be recessed somewhere else! Or, you will get the jamb to be flush everywhere but the door will not be flush with the jamb when it closes. See why rough carpenters need to take extra time to do their jobs right?

Shims

One of the materials you need when doing finish work is shims - and lots of them. They are used to level cabinets or anything else. You need them to hang doors. Shims are frequently used to install baseboard and door and window trim. Good finish carpenters always travel with two or three bundles of shims. I like to use cedar shims. They are easy to cut with a sharp razor knife and are a pleasure to work with.

Trim Profile Problems

If you are casing a door or window or even installing crown molding, don't assume that each piece of trim will have the identical profile across the face of the trim. You may get trim from different mill runs. It can get all mixed together at the lumber yard. You generally see problems when you cut the casing molding flat and try to join two 45 degree angles over a window or a door. If you have this problem you can solve it with a little sandpaper and a small sharp wood chisel.

Temperature & Humidity

Wood is a hygroscopic material. It responds to changes in humidity. This means it can expand or contract. If you are doing a large trim job, make sure the inside of the house is at or near the temperature it will be at when people live in it while you are installing the trim. What's more, make sure the trim is stored indoors for 3 or 4 days to get comfortable and acclimated with the temperature and humidity. If you take trim from a cold, damp garage and install it, it may look horrible in a week when joints start to open up. It is a common sense issue.

Finger Joints

In an effort to conserve our natural resources, some lumber mills are making wood trim from small pieces. A special machine cuts finger joints that allow small pieces to be glued together into long pieces. Finger jointed wood works fine for painted work but be careful if using it for stained work. You will see the grain changes and the finger joints through the urethane. Some finger jointed material is available with a super thin veneer over it that masks the joints. If you buy this, keep in mind that you can only sand it very lightly. Aggressive sanding may expose the core. Don't worry, you can readily get long lengths of solid trim if you desire it! It is out there!

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Tim’s Finish Carpentry Tools

Tim's Finish Carpentry Tools

If I am working on an interior finish carpentry project, there is a group of tools that I must have. Without these tools, professional results would be nearly impossible.

Here is a list of the absolute must-haves:

  • 12" diameter power miter box saw - it can be a compound one, but it isn't necessary
  • Hand held coping saw
  • A simple wood rasp
  • Razor knife
  • Assorted wood chisels
  • Paslode Impulse Finish Nailer

Those are the must have tools. This assortment will allow you to complete a wide variety of common finish carpentry tasks around your home. Of course if money is no object, then make sure you have the following extra tools around. They will come in handy. I use each one of the following from time to time:

  • Assorted squeeze clamps
  • A block plane
  • Belt Sander
  • 6 Foot long metal straightedge
  • Screw gun
  • 1/2 hp Router with assorted bits
  • Cordless Power Saw with Micro-cut Blade
  • Table Saw
  • Biscuit Jointer-Biscuits-Glue

I'm sure some of you can think of more tools, but these will allow you to do so many things that I can't imagine you having that much time to complete that many projects - especially in your free time.

In order of importance of buying these extra tools, I would absolutely get the table saw, router, and belt sander first. The screw gun, cordless power saw, and the biscuit jointer should be purchased only if there is extra money. The other tools are not as expensive and can be purchased here and there.

Remember to buy the best. The tools make the job. An inferior tool can produce less than perfect results and slow you down.

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10 Finish Carpentry Tips

10 Finish Carpentry Tips

Calibrate Your Tape

I'll bet you have dropped your tape measure a time or two. Look at the tip of the blade. See if the little prongs that grab onto the end of a piece of wood are bent. If they are, your tape is going to read wrong when you translate an inside measurement to a length! Take two pliers and carefully straighten the tape prongs.

Pencil Marks

A simple pencil mark can be confusing. Sometimes the line is slightly curved. Where do you cut? Finish marks should be crisp arrow points. The tip of the arrow is the exact mark. Just remember what side of the line to cut on!

Support Your Work

If you are using a miter box saw and cutting long lengths, they will flop around and cause you fits. You may need three of my carpenter's benches, one for the saw and the other two as outriggers to catch the ends of the lumber being cut.

Cut Upside Down

Are you making cross cuts across grain? Trimming down a door or cutting finish plywood? If so, you can reduce splintering if the circular saw blade cuts up through the finish grain. This means cut plywood with the good side facing down. If both sides are good, then make a fine pencil line and use a straightedge and razor knife to score the wood first.

Straight Cross Cuts

Clamp a thin metal straightedge to a piece of plywood or other material to get long straight cuts. The bottom platen of the saw butts up against the straightedge and uses it as a fence. All you need to do is calculate the blade offset so the cut is the right length. Do this on a test piece of lumber.

Avoiding Miters

If you are working with tall baseboard, it can be a nightmare to create miter joints. You can eliminate miters by using decorative corner blocks at inside and outside corners. This is a fancy trick for crown molding as well!

Crown Molding Tips

Crown molding fits into a saw differently. Place it upside down in the saw. It sits in the saw at the angle that it rests at on the wall. Cut 16 inch long test pieces that slide into each corner that tell you how out of square each corner actually is. Nail triangular scrap lumber into the wall/ceiling corners. Nail into the wall top plate. These blocks allow you to use shorter nails in the crown and you can nail anywhere you like instead of hunting for ceiling joists.

Glue and Stain

If you are staining woodwork, watch out for excess glue. If you wipe glue off with a wet rag, the glue can get into the wood pores and block stain penetration. Be careful with the glue!

Splits

If using conventional nails, watch out at the ends of pieces of wood. Regular nails are pointed and they can easily cause splits. Either dull the nail tip or pre-drill a small hole to avoid splitting.

Practice First

If you are trying something new, always practice the cut or technique first on some scrap wood. If you are doing miters for the first time start inside a closet, not at the main door of the house. Make mistakes where people will not see them.

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Electronic Tool Technology

Electronic Tools

Electronics have invaded our lives! They are everywhere. You can find them in your car, your coffee maker, your alarm clock, your watch, your lawn mower, and now, tools. There is no doubt that within a few years, we will probably be 100 percent dependent upon electronics in order to function. Those of us in the business world are already there, as all forms of communication seem to involve electronics.

There are both advantages and disadvantages to using electronics in things. Accuracy is often unparalleled when using items that have electronics. Because the microchips that are the heart of electronic devices are getting smaller and smaller, the size of objects is shrinking. This can be a significant advantage.

However, electronic devices require power in order to operate. Often the chips or devices can be affected by extremes of heat or cold. Moisture or condensation can short circuit a small chip or printed circuit board. Vibrations or impacts can damage components. In other words, they aren't perfect.

Time Savers

Within the past few years, electronics and microchips mated with old-fashioned hand tools and produced some very fine offspring. These electronic devices or tools offer extreme accuracy and can often deliver it very quickly.

For example, when I graduated from college in 1974, I was still using trigonometry tables to calculate roof problems and other angle problems. Not too long ago, a company developed an incredible calculator for builders. This calculator automatically does the necessary trigonometry to arrive at a problem solution.

Simple levels are another item which have electronic relatives. You can purchase electronic levels that are highly accurate. They will tell you how out-of-level something is by either using a simulated bubble, or displaying percent grade, pitch, slope or degrees. Another nice feature of these levels is that some have the capability to remember. Let's say you are in a dark crawlspace and you can't see the readout. You simply push a button and the level remembers the display until you can get the level to a spot where you can read it!

Star Wars

If you have seen any of the futuristic movies involving space themes, I'm sure you remember the extensive use of laser weapons. Well, guess what? Lasers are now commonplace in construction as well. Technological advancements have made these items highly accurate and affordable.

Laser levels come in a wide assortment of types. You can purchase some small models that are very similar to common torpedo levels. These levels emit a laser beam parallel to the surface upon which they are resting. This capability can come in handy when trying to project an angle or a line onto another surface. Gone forever are the days of sagging string lines!

Seeing the Unknown

I can't tell you the number of times on past jobs where I wondered what exactly was inside a wall. Often I would have to punch a hole to do my investigative work. Other times I wondered just where the plumbing drainage pipes were beneath concrete slabs.

Homeowners and contractors now have access to a wonderful radar tool which enables you to see through objects. The resulting findings are displayed on a miniature TV screen. Zircon's MetalliScanner can find metal six inches deep through solid concrete or pipes and junction boxes behind tile. It automatically differentiates between magnetic and non-magnetic metal, and reports both location and depth. You can find the location of hidden electrical conduits or buried plumbing lines. This tool can save you hundreds and thousands of dollars. No longer will you need to base your decisions on hope! In other words, I hope I don't cut through a pipe, or I hope that sewer line is right here.

Electronic tools are here to stay and I'm convinced that they will save all of us time and money. Sure there are some disadvantages, however the advantages are far greater. Good luck on your next project!

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Electronic Tools – Manufacturers & Features

Electronic Tools - Manufacturers & Features

ELECTRONIC LEVELS

Macklanburg-Duncan makes the SmartTool Electronic Levels. These feature readings in degrees, percent slope, pitch (inches of rise/foot of run), and a simulated bubble. You can use the sensor module as a torpedo level or snap the module into a 24, 48 or 78 inch Smart Level rail. It also features a hold button to "freeze" a reading. Last but not least, you can choose two levels of accuracy!

Zircon Corporation also makes electronic levels. One of their products uses both an LCD display and a sound signal to signify for level or plumb. They also make a sound water level which allows you to create a level line around corners out of sight of the unit! Check out their web site for other electronic tools.

ELECTRONIC CALCULATORS

Calculated Industries makes a wide assortment of building and remodeling calculators. I personally have used their Construction Master IV. This calculator does all mathematic functions in feet, inches, metric, decimals or whichever format you want to use. It is incredible. It will also instantly convert between formats. The calculator has built-in programs to allow you to calculate any right angle problem solution. This allows you to easily 'square' something up or calculate any roof framing problem. They also make a simpler version called the Measure Master Classic if you don't need all the fancy right angle solution functions. For you electricians out there, they also make the ElectriCalc Pro. This calculator is a must for anyone who needs to make electric calculations. I have used their products in the field for years and have been delighted. I'm sure you will be satisfied as well if you purchase from them.

ULTRASONIC MEASURING DEVICES

Calculated Industries also makes an ultrasonic measuring device called Pocket Dimension Master. This device eliminates the need for tape measures when attempting to measure between walls or objects. It uses sound to measure. The device comes with a nifty aiming light so that you can get accurate results. The manufacturer claims a 99.5 percent accuracy rate up to 50 feet. I tested the device and found this to be true. The device also has a calculator that works in any format (see above). This allows you to use feet and inches, or whatever.

Sonin, Inc. makes the Multi-Measure Combo Pro for measuring upto 250 feet. It claims an accuracy of +/- 1/4 inches. I was unable to obtain a sample to test, so I cannot verify this claim.

LASER LEVELS

Laser levels come in two types: smaller torpedo levels, some of which can be mounted on tripods, and larger models that resemble builder's transits. Both operate basically the same. They emit a narrow visible laser beam. This beam is projected to wherever the laser is aimed. The beauty of these devices is that once set up, you can walk away from the levels and mark where the laser beam hits. No need for two people to operate the device. Manufacturers include:

  • Macklanburg-Duncan SmartDot Laser levels

  • Laseraim Tools

  • Laser Tools Company

  • CST/Berger

  • Topcon Laser Products

REMOTE SENSING DEVICES (wide band radar)

Zircon Corporation makes an electronic stud/joist/beam finder.This device uses sound waves to find solid objects in hollow walls. It can actually sense different wall densities. I have used this device with great success. It can tell you just where studs begin and end, even through plaster!

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Electronic Tools – Maintenance & Care

Electronic Tool Maintenance & Care

As you might imagine, electronic tools have sensitive internal components. These components are the brains that allow these devices to produce highly accurate results. As such, they must be protected from extremes of heat, cold, moisture, dust and impact.

Virtually every tool has the capability to be easily re-calibrated in the event it gets out of adjustment. The trick is to minimize abuse. The tools are constructed from rugged materials, however, the temptation is to treat these tools just like the old tools which were commonly left out in the rain or dropped from the scaffolding. Do that with these tools, and you will regret it!

Each of the tools has specific care instructions. Most of them come with foam padded carrying and storage cases that offer superb protection when not in use. All of the manufacturers recommend that these cases be used when the tool is not in use.

Extreme heat can sometimes damage electronics. Be sure to read the owner's manuals about this topic. Leaving these tools on the dashboard of your truck or car may not be the best thing to do. Temperatures can climb dramatically inside of closed cars and trucks in summer months. Use common sense!

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Pneumatic Nailers – Safety & Use Tips

Pneumatic Nailers - Safety & Use Tips

I remember clearly the first day I used a pneumatic nail gun. My crew and I were working with a friend of mine who was a carpenter. He had recently purchased a used air compressor and a framing nail gun. The size of the gun astonished me. It appeared bulky and heavy. When I picked it up, my observations were confirmed. However, when I began to use it those feelings quickly vanished!

The Need for Speed

Pneumatic nailers do many things well. One of the most impressive is the speed with which they can drive nails or staples. I would venture to say that for every nail that I could hand drive on my best day, a pneumatic nailer would drive and set twelve! That is no exaggeration.

Although there is no need to go this fast, a reasonable speed would allow you to be 400 to 800 percent more productive. Nailing large subfloors and roof decks is a breeze. Hours worth of work becomes minutes. This means that contractors who use these tools can save you money. They are much more competitive.

Holding Power

The nails that are used by pneumatic nailers are precision made. Often they come in strips. They are held together by a resin/adhesive that coats the shaft of each nail and allows the nails to stick to one another.

This resin performs additional functions. When the piston drives the nail rapidly into the wood, it creates quite a bit of friction. The friction turns to heat which melts the resin. This melted resin acts a a lubricant helping the nail to penetrate the wood more easily. Within a matter of seconds, the resin resolidifies and becomes an adhesive! Pneumatically driven nails generally have up to twice the holding power of regular hand driven nails.

I can easily attest to this claim. Virtually every frame wall we built required bracing to hold it in place. We would nail a 2x4 diagonal brace to the top of a vertical wall stud until the structure was secure. Several days later when we removed the braces, the nails would pull through the brace as we hammered it away from the wall! In other words, the nails would not budge. They remained in the vertical wall studs!

The Many Uses

There is a nail gun that fits just about every need. The big ones will drive a 3.5 inch nail into a piece of oak with no effort. Or you can purchase a gun that fires roofing nails. Small brads (1/2 inch!) can be driven for picture frames. My favorite gun is one that fires trim nails for woodwork. I actually have two different trim guns. One fires nails up to two inches long, while the other can shoot a 2.5 inch nail. The first trim gun I purchased was so fantastic that it paid for itself within the first week of ownership.

The pneumatic nail guns that are used for trim work are especially handy. Have you ever goofed up and hit the wood instead of the nail? BINGO, a beauty mark! Or, you carefully drive the nail, begin tapping the nail with the nail set and oooooops!, the nail set slips and drives a hole next to the nail! This looks horrible on woodwork that is to be stained.

Nail guns don't make mistakes like this. They drive and set the nail in one motion! The only time they have trouble is when they hit a knot in a piece of wood. In these rare instances, the nail might bed or curl out of the trim. I'd say this happened to me maybe one in 5,000 times. I'll take those odds any day!

Safety - A Number One Priority

Pneumatic nail tools are powerful and dangerous. They must be treated with respect. I have hurt myself with pneumatic nail tools as well as hand driven nails. Every time I have injured myself, it has been a result of a lack of concentration and/or using the tool in a manner considered inappropriate.

For example, three years ago I was working in my basement. I was using a framing nail gun to toe nail a wall stud into a top plate. The gun bounced off the stud from the recoil and hit the top of my eyebrow. It knocked me off the ladder, bent my glasses, and caused me to see more stars than I can remember. After I got up from the ground I felt you-know-what flowing down my face. Fifteen stitches later I was as good as new.

I have seen photographs of x-rays where nails have entered heads, arms, legs, etc. In fact a fellow worker once nailed his big toe. He was in the hospital for a week after they surgically extracted the nail from his bone.

The point is this - the tools are wonderful, they produce lots of work, but you must be careful at all times.

Cost vs. Value

I have owned pneumatic nail tools for approximately 10 years. My first nail gun cost approximately $400. In addition, I purchased a gasoline powered air compressor. This compressor cost $500. Air hoses, nails, etc. brought the total to $1,000. Within a matter of years, I purchased three other guns. My total investment hovers near $2,300.

As for value, I can say that these wonderful tools enabled me to get jobs because I was more productive. My callbacks were less, especially regarding squeaking floors. I damaged less finish lumber. My guess is that the tools actually made money for me. Lots of it.

Reliability

The mechanism of the gun is somewhat simple. A piston is charged by air. When the trigger and safety mechanism are engaged, the piston pushes a rod which drives the nail. Moving parts are minimal. If a nail jambs, a quick release feature allows you to fix this quickly.

Believe it or not, I have never had to take one of my guns in for service! That claim is incredible when you figure that my oldest framing gun has fired in excess of 500,000 nails.

Two Types

A huge majority of manufacturers make pneumatic nailers that are powered by compressed air. This means that you need a source of air. The air is supplied to the gun through a hose.

However, one manufacturer, ITW Paslode, makes a gun which does not require compressed air! It basically is an internal combustion engine of sorts. The gun comes with a spark igniter and a fuel cell. Each pull of the trigger causes the fuel to ignite and pushes a piston which drives the nail.

Each system has its advantages and disadvantages. For example, I use the air hose to lower my tool to the ground. It works great. But, there are many occasions where the air hose gets in the way. Many times I have covered my hands in mud while coiling my air hose at the end of the day. See what I mean!

Whichever type of nail gun you use, the results should be fantastic. Stay alert during use, do NOT horse around, never point them at something other than wood, and you should be in good shape.

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Pneumatic Tool Manufacturers

Pneumatic Tool Manufacturers

Each of the companies listed makes pneumatic tools. They are very competitively priced. All of the tools are built to last. I would base my decision on service and availability of nails and parts. Yes, I know that the tools (at least mine!) rarely if ever break down. But, in the event it happens to you, who wants to have to mail it away?

Check out the following companies' web sites!

  • Duo-Fast Corp.

  • Hilti
  • Hitachi Power Tools
  • Paslode
  • Makita
  • Porter Cable
  • Senco Products
  • Stanley

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AsktheBuilder mp3 Radio Show Sept 24 2005

Each title below is a direct link to a downloadable mp3 file. Just click the title if you want to listen. Right click if you want to download into your computer to save and play at a later date.

The Copyright to all radio segments is owned by Tim Carter. I would love to know what you think of these radio segments. Do you like them? Do they help you? Have they saved you money and/or time? Let me know by sending me an email: [email protected]


Roger Bacon Class of 1970 35th Reunion

GeoDek Recall Notice

Bamboo Flooring Install Tips

Repairing Scuff Damage on Hardwood Floor

Refinish Wood Front Door

Change Grout Color on New Floor Tile

AsktheBuilder mp3 Radio Show Sept 17 2005

Each title below is a direct link to a downloadable mp3 file. Just click the title if you want to listen. Right click if you want to download into your computer to save and play at a later date.

The Copyright to all radio segments is owned by Tim Carter. I would love to know what you think of these radio segments. Do you like them? Do they help you? Have they saved you money and/or time? Let me know by sending me an email: [email protected]


Roger Bacon High School Golf Outing

Repairing Artificial Stone

Drainage Solution for Flat Spots in Yard (French Linear Drain)

Installing a Roof Dryer Vent

Wind-up Flashlight

Laying Carpet on a Sealed Concrete Floor