Important Author’s Note Update: Since this column was written, I have discovered at least two other gutter guards that sport the micro-mesh filtration screen. Testing of these Micro-mesh guards began early Spring of 2008. The results of the test are in! After 10-years of testing various types, a winner has been declared! Click for the gutter guard I installed on my house - Gutter Guard Test Results.

Gutter Protection Test Results

OK, so call me a doubting Thomas. Certain building products I can not test scientifically. For example I can't do wind tests on windows. I don't have a lab to do water absorption testing on wood sealants. However, gutter guards are within my capabilities. You simply install them and log the results. The other stuff you have to "trust" manufacturer's claims or get independent results.

I took a chance with my testing. I decided that I would not test any product that required permanent installation to my aluminum gutters. This automatically knocked several major brand aluminum gutter guards out of the picture. The reason I didn't want to test them was based upon my hypothesis that the guards would allow some debris into the gutters. If this was the case, then it would be virtually impossible - or at least highly impractical to clean the gutters at a future time. When I rolled the dice it came up "7". All of the products allowed debris to enter the gutters!

I have listed below the three products I tested. There are many more gutter guards out there. In fact, I suspect that there could be up to 100 fabricators, many located in just a small regional area. I feel that you should look for the characteristics I described in my "Winners" section. Stay away from the losers.........

Hi, it's me Tim Carter. Do you want a bid on the same gutter guards I used on my home? Click Here If you do fill out the form at the MasterShield page, they pay me a very small commission.

LOSERS

• Benjamin Obdyke
  This gutter guard was a nightmare from the get go. It was difficult to install because of its "accordion" design. This vinyl gutter guard had parallel rows of pleats. At the bottom of the pleats were slits that allowed water to enter the gutters. The accordion design made it very difficult to slide the products up under the gutters. These devices got clogged quickly with the spring debris from by maple and pin oak trees.

• Nameless Product
  Here is a product I bought at a home center store. This simple vinyl gutter guard had numerous rows of holes in it. The holes were 7/16 inch in diameter. The front of the product had jaws that were at first unrecognizable as such. They were designed so that the device could clamp on the top lip of the gutter. I found it impossible to spread the jaws by hand. Debris was caught by these jaws and eventually caused the guards to sag into the gutter. These guards were the worst performer.

WINNER

• Amerimax Home Products
  This simple vinyl gutter guard that I purchased at a home center store looked like the loser product with holes in it at first. However it was very different. It had elongated diamond shaped knockouts in it. These knockouts block all but the smallest debris from getting into the gutters but are wide enough to allow you to direct a hose spray into the gutter to flush the mush out every other year. The diamond knockouts were 1/4 inch wide by 1/2 inch long. Open front jaws allowed this flexible guard to quickly and snugly attach to the front gutter lip. It was the shortest gutter guard in the group - only 3 feet long. I found this a huge plus while installing the product. Read the label when installing as it has an up side and a down side. If you can find this one, buy it! Why? This is the overall winning product.

If you do want to limit your gutter cleaning experiences to the spring and summer, then install gutter guards. They all do a great job of keeping big leaves out of gutters.

Gutter Guard Manufacturers

• Crane Plastics

• Gutter Armor
• Gutter Helmet
• Gutter Topper
• WaterLoov
• Leaf Relief

Hi, it's me Tim Carter. Do you want a bid on the same gutter guards I used on my home? Click Here If you do fill out the form at the MasterShield page, they pay me a very small commission.

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Purchasing Asphalt Shingles

Perhaps the most important thing to look for when shopping for shingles is a passing grade on an independent test. The folks at the American Society of Testing Materials (ASTM) have developed a test for asphalt shingles. The test checks the composition, dimensions and performance of asphalt shingles. One of the key issues is tear resistance from wind and mechanical forces. This is important as you don't want your shingles to tear away from the nails in a wind storm. This test is ASTM D3462, "Standard Specification for Asphalt Shingles Made from Glass Felt and Surfaced with Mineral Granules".

Do not buy any shingle that has not passed this test - plain and simple. This information is readily available in written form from the manufacturers. Those that test, will readily give you the proof. Those that don't, will readily give you excuses.

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Locating a roof leak can be a really big undertaking. I have spent days trying to find leaks. On one job, it actually turned out that the roof wasn't leaking at all. The water was actually entering a massive brick chimney. It flowed down inside the chimney and eventually surfaced at some roof rafters. It then traveled along the rafters towards some skylights. Both the homeowner and I were very frustrated. Once we sealed the chimney with a high quality siloxane water repellent, the mysterious roof leak disappeared.

High School Physics

Roof coverings work in conjunction with gravity. Without the pull of gravity dragging water down the roof, most coverings would readily admit water into your house. Keeping this fact in mind will allow you to locate many roof leaks. Always look sideways, diagonally or up-roof from an inside leak location for the source of the leak.

Using a garden hose and a sprinkler will also help you. Always start from the lowest possible leak location and work upwards. NEVER point the hose up-roof! Try to simulate rain from above. Don't use an unrealistic flow of water. It may take upwards of five to 10 minutes for a leak to expose itself, so be patient.

The Most Probable Cause

Close to 90 percent of all roof leaks happen at flashings. Flashings are transitional roofing materials. They connect a roof to something that is not a roof. You will find flashings at chimneys, valleys, where a roof bumps into a wall, skylights, plumbing stacks, etc. When I am called to find a roof leak I always study the flashings before I spend any time looking in the field of shingles.

The reason flashings cause so many problems is that many roofers are like a lost ball in the high weeds when it comes to installing them. They simply do not have a clue how to do it. I have seen metal flashings installed with caulk. I have seen aluminum flashing used in masonry work. Some roofers actually use massive quantities of roofing cement smeared all over the flashings. All of these practices are wrong.

Low Slope = High Leak Potential

Many modern houses have low slope roofs - say four or five in 12 pitch. These roofs are highly susceptible to leaks from wind blown rain. If you have the opportunity to increase the pitch or slope of your roof, do so.

Repairing Roof Leaks

You would be surprised how simple it is to fix many roof leaks. Often it takes a simple piece of metal flashing. You may have to slide it over a hole and up and under the shingle above. Possibly a counterflashing has rusted. Perhaps a solder joint has cracked.

Do not even consider using roofing cement as a permanent roof patching compound. Did you know that it is not even supposed to be exposed to sunlight? Yes, UV rays break it down! Roofing cement is supposed to glue two pieces of shingle or rolled roofing together. It is not "roof icing" as I call it.

Caulk is another temporary roofing material. Don't be tempted to use this material. It works great on interior woodwork and tile, but not roofing materials. Roofs move a lot. Properly installed metal flashings account for this movement.

Look at your roof and flashing systems. Note how they resemble feathers on a bird or fish scales. The shingle above overlaps the flashing or shingle below. If you identify a leak location, form a piece of metal to cover the leak. Then slide the metal up and under the shingles above the hole. In many instances - assuming you are working with small pieces of metal - they will friction fit. There is no need for nails to hold the metal in place.

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Ten Most Common Roof Leak Locations

Roof leaks are a nuisance for many homeowners. They can be difficult to diagnose - that is a fact. To make matters worse, different weather conditions will produce leaks in different locations.

The vast majority of roof coverings operate using the principal of gravity. This can be a big help in locating a leak source. However, horizontal roof boards can trick you. A leak may actually be eight to 10 feet sideways from where you see the wet ceiling or spot in the attic.

Finding the source of some leaks is easy. Others will require detective work and possibly a garden hose and an inside spotter. If you don't feel comfortable on a roof, you will have to find an honest roofer to assist you. Sometimes this can be as hard as finding the smallest leak! Here are some tips that may help you find a pesky roof leak:

The Field of Shingles

If your roof is older, it is possible that the leak is within the roof field. This means the expanse of shingles, slate, shakes, whatever. If your roof is asphalt, then you can walk around with ease. Other materials such as slate, concrete tile or clay tile may not be so forgiving.

You can crack roofing if you walk on it, so be careful. With regular shingles, look at the tops of the vertical knockouts. Look for missing colored granules. Look for cracks. Possibly a nail has backed itself out of the roof sheathing. Simply take your time and hunt.

Free & Fast Bids

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local contractors that will help you find leaks in your roof.

Valleys

A valley is a line where two roof planes intersect. Here in Cincinnati we use a metal flashing in the valleys. Some areas use rolled roofing. Other places simply lace the shingles together. Valleys can be big problems if you do not trim the shingles correctly.

When you trim a shingle for a valley you end up with a chisel point on the end of the shingle. If a second cut is not made to make this point like an arrow point, then water can travel along the top of the shingle and find its way inside your house. The shingle wrapper tells you how to make this simple second cut.

Head Wall Flashings

Some roofs stop at a vertical wall. A metal flashing must be in place to direct water streaming down the wall away from the stopping point of the shingles. This flashing may be behind wood siding or in front of a brick wall. The flashing should extend over the shingles at least three inches.

If the wall is brick or other masonry, the flashing must bend and extend one inch into a mortar joint. Tar, caulk or roofing cement should never be used in conjunction with these materials. If you see them, it is a sign that someone tried to patch a leak!

Wall Step Flashing

Some roof leaks happen at step flashings. You find these flashings where a roof climbs alongside a vertical wall. As each row of shingles is laid, a step flashing is installed over the shingle next to the wall. Part of the flashing turns up on the wall and the other portion gets covered by the next row of shingles.

Look for rust or holes in these flashings. In reality, if all is well, you will be able to see only the smallest portion of these flashings.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local contractors that will help you find leaks in your roof.

Chimneys

These devils are the source of many a leak. Chimneys contain four different types of flashing. All must be right or you will have a leak. Plus, the counterflashing that goes into the brick mortar joint must be right.

A hairline crack above the flashing can allow vast amounts of water to run behind the flashings. Look for soldered corners of flashing that might have broken or have holes. Do not use caulk to repair these flashings!

Plumbing Vent Flashings

Newer vent flashings are a concern of mine. Many of these incorporate a rubber seal with an aluminum flashing. The rubber can fail in as little as 10 to 15 years. Look for cracked rubber around the plumbing pipe.

The flashing should dive up and under the shingles that extend up roof from the middle of the plumbing vent. The bottom half of the flashing should be exposed and actually cover the shingles.

Furnace or B-Vent Flashing

These flashings are basically identical to plumbing vent flashings. However, they sometimes have a metal storm collar. These simply fit tightly around the vertical pipe that exits the roof. If they become loose, the storm collars can cause leaks.

Ice Dam Leaks

Ice dam leaks plague people in the snow belt. These leaks can happen even if everything on your roof is just fine! Ice dams block the natural flow of water down a roof. The water begins to back up under flashings, shingles, tar paper, etc.

Once water begins to flow into the house, it can drip for days. The only means of prevention is to install membranes under the roofing. The membranes won't stop the ice but will stop water leaks if installed properly.

Wind Blown Rain Leaks

Wind driven rain can also be a major problem. Once again, you could actually have a good roof and wind will drive water up and under your roofing materials. The only lines of defense are tar paper and the ice dam membranes.

If you have metal valleys, you may want to hem the edges. This means that the hidden edges of the valley actual have a 180 degree bend. This creates a channel that directs wind blown rain back to the bottom of the valley.

Roofing cement under shingles on the edges of roofs that face the wind are also a good idea. Don't underestimate the power of a 70 mph sustained wind-driven rain.

Non-Roof Leaks !

Sometimes you think you have a roof leak when in fact the roof is fine. Attic condensation is a prime example. High humidity can cause condensation and "rain" to fall in your attic. It can also make the underside of the roof sheathing look wet. You think you have a leak instead.

Chimney crowns can develop cracks. The inside surface of the chimney gets discolored or the plaster bubbles. You think a roof leak is the cause.

Siding can be missing above a roof. This can cause water to enter behind head flashings. Be a good gumshoe and snoop around for the leaks!

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local contractors that will help you find leaks in your roof.

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Major Players in Membranes

The following companies are the major players in the EPDM and membrane roofing. You can call them for information about their products, however it may be a waste of time. Why? This market is really geared to the professional roofing contractor, and NOT to the consumer. The information you will receive may be quite technical and dry. I can assure you it will contain language that is very chemically oriented. The better choice may be just to ask for local roofing suppliers who sell the products. Contact your local distributor for easier to understand facts and costs.

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Tips on Locating Flat Roof Leaks

Flat roof leak roofs can be a devil to locate. The reason is that water can enter one spot and not really express itself inside until it is far away from the leak. The same thing can happen on sloped roofs, however, you can usually discount all the roof area below the area where you see the leak.

Why? Because water doesn't generally flow uphill from the leak location. Flat roofs allow the leak to travel in any direction from the leak point. That is why they are tough to locate.......

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Start With a Dry Roof

If you have a flat roof that leaks, get up on it when it is dry and cool. You want to look for trouble spots that generally are the primary source of leaks.

I always start at flashings. Flashings are transitional roofing materials. A flashing connects a roofing membrane to something that is not a roof. For example, If a plumbing stack or chimney pops up through the roof, it will be surrounded by a flashing. Often the flashing materials are metal.

Look for cracks. Look to see if the flashing overlaps the roofing material such that downward falling water will be deflected away from the chimney, wall or plumbing pipe.

Check the edge of the roof. Often flashings are used at these points as well. See if they are secure. Look for little cracks, openings, or breaks in seams in these flashings.

Dry Mini Lake Beds

Often water will pond in low spots in a flat roof. You will see evidence of these areas on a flat roof. Look for concentric rings of dirt as the puddles dry out. Look here for tiny holes or splits in the roof.

Seams - A High Priority

Any seam in the roofing material is a natural spot for a leak. Look closely at all seams. Do you see cracks or holes of any type? Is there a place where you can lift a small edge of a seam?

Testing For Leaks

You can test for leaks using a hose. But you have to be patient and you need to work backwards away from gutters or center drains. It can take hours, as you need to let the water run slowly over areas you think are trouble spots. Remember, it can take 10 minutes or more for the water to begin dripping inside. Start near a drain and let the water slowly run.

Periodically, adjust the hose so water flows across dry portions of the roof. You will need tremendous patience, especially if all portions of the roof appear tight.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local contractors who can come check your roof for leaks.

Related Articles: Newer Rubber Roofs, Membrane Roofing Types, Membrane Roofing, Manufacturers

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Metal Roofing Attributes

Metal roofing is a really distinctive building material. One of the advantages to using the product is its almost zero maintenance aspect. This is one reason it is used so much in commercial and institutional work. Companies that own businesses know how damaging roof leaks can be. They also understand the time value of money. Since they want a roof that will not cause problems for say 30 to 50 years or so, they go metal.

You can see an excellent example of this in my hometown. About 10 years ago Procter & Gamble built a new office building. The centerpoint of the structure are dual office towers. They are both capped with a dramatic hip roof covered with a standing seam metal roof. Procter & Gamble has a reputation for building with quality materials. They did the right thing by using metal roofs on these buildings - that I can assure you!

No DIY Task

Metal roofing is not a weekend challenge for you and your friends. There are numerous tools, tips and techniques that only come from working with experienced installers. Forget about putting a moderate to complex metal roof on yourself. If you can follow instructions and have an assortment of metal working tools, you may be able to complete a simple job on your first try.

Movement

Metal roofing materials move in response to changes in temperature. This movement needs to be accounted for in the design and installation phases. If you do not take it into consideration, you will very likely get a leak at some point. Metal roof manufactures know all about this movement. Almost every one has taken it into consideration in their installation instructions. For this reason, do not treat lightly the instructions with respect to the installation of fasteners, their length, type, placement, etc.

Metal roof systems will move, and when they do they will find the weakest spot to relieve the built-up stress. If that stress is a row of fasteners that have been put in disregarding the instructions, then you just may well have a leak along that row.

Mixing & Matching

A metal roof is rarely just one piece or several pieces of the same metal. There are special starting strips, clips, edge pieces, caps, etc. All of these components make up the total roof system. Don't mix and match components from one system to another. Don't try to save money and fabricate your own. Use exactly what the manufacturer tells you to use.

The metal roof systems simply cost too much to improvise. Besides that, you can immediately void the warranty and lose all help and assistance should you develop a problem down the road.

A Backup Roof

If your roof will be in a cold climate, you need to be concerned with condensation. Water vapor can condense on the underside of a metal roof. If this water can't escape it can actually corrode the roof. It is not uncommon for metal roofs to have some type of continuous air pathway that allows trapped water vapor an escape route. Make sure you look for these points when you look over the installation instructions.

A second roof? Well that means that you might have to install substantial (say 30# felt) underlayment beneath the metal roofing to deflect wind blown spray, condensation or ice dam backups. Once again, do not question the wisdom behind the installation instructions!

Colors and Types of Metals

If you want variety in a metal roof, you can surely find it! Metal roofs are available in an entire palette of colors, shapes, textures, metals, etc. You can get steel roofs, tin, aluminum, copper and if you have the money - I believe - stainless steel!

Old fashioned style standing seam is not a problem. Many manufacturers make this as a standard option. Look around a little more and you will find numerous systems with panels that simulate shingles. Some metal roofs are actually individual shingles that overlap hiding concealed fasteners! If you have tinsmiths in your town, you can still get flat-locked tin roofing.

If your budget permits you to be able to purchase a metal roof, it is worth the effort to look at as many as you have the time for. I guarantee you that you will come across a metal roof that will get your attention.

Also, don't look at samples too closely. When viewed at arms length, they may seem fake or not attractive. You must stand back 20 or possibly 50 feet and look at several pieces together. If you don't do this, you will make a mistake when picking your roof system.

Related Articles:  Metal Roofing - Good Looking, Metal  Roofing Cost Examples,  Metal Roofing Products

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Metal Roofing Manufacturers

Following is a list of as many metal roof manufacturers as I could find. I have tried to include a description of some of their products. I can assure you that each one of these companies will gladly send you lots of full color literature. The list is by no means complete. I am quite sure that somewhere out there is a company or two that makes metal roof panels.

Remember to find out about installation details and what you need to do to prevent leaks. Just today I received an email from an individual who is having BIG problems with leaks around exposed fasteners. I used those on a job nearly 10 years ago with absolutely no problems. The roof is leak-proof as I write this. Before you buy a metal roofing system, be sure to get the written installation instructions and be absolutely sure that the installer follows them to the letter.

• ATAS International, Inc.
  ATAS International has a growing spectrum of metal roofing, wall, and ceiling panel systems, mansards, soffits, curved panels, column covers, equipment screens, rainware, ventilation, framing systems, and accessories.

• Dura-Loc
  This company makes metal roof systems that look like regular shingles and clay barrel tiles. They even coat some of the metal tiles with colored granules to look just like asphalt shingles!

• Englert
  Here is a unique system. The roof panels are actually formed on-site at your building lot! Sounds to me like the seamless gutter system. They have five different profiles.

• McElroy Metal
  McElroy makes a metal roofing system available in a variety of colors and types.

• Petersen Aluminum Corp.
  Their products are available in at least 25 colors. Sounds to me like they never rust!

• Revere Copper Products
  If you want a copper shingled roof you MUST check them out! They make a truly distinguished metal roof system.

• Union Corrugating Co.
  Union makes an assortment of metal roof panels, simulated shingles and all trim pieces. They have awesome colors as well.

• Vail Metal Systems
  This Colorado company makes a concealed fastener metal roof system that looks like shingles. It comes in either solid copper or Kynar 500 coated steel.

Related Articles:  Metal Roofing - Good Looking, Metal  Roofing Cost Examples,  Residential Metal Roofing

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