Cedar shakes are one of the ultimate roofing materials. Perhaps this is why asphalt manufacturers have tried to mimic cedar shakes for quite some time. The color, texture and overall appearance of a cedar shake roof is hard to duplicate. However, as you might expect, this beauty comes with a price tag. Cedar shake roofs require periodic maintenance in order to retain their positive qualities.

Wood, left unprotected, can be easily abused by sunlight and water. Some wood though, contains naturally occurring chemicals that withstand, to a degree, the effects of water. Sunlight, especially ultraviolet (UV) light, readily attacks any unprotected wood.

Sunlight = Trouble

Sunlight, far and away, is the biggest enemy of cedar shake roofs. The UV rays of the sun actually break down lignin (a component of wood cells.) This breakdown occurs on a small scale and, as such, is invisible to the naked eye. This reaction only happens at the top surface of the cedar shake. However, wind and rain wash away the broken-down wood cells and expose a new layer. So the process is ongoing. The color change you see when cedar shakes (or any wood for that matter) turn gray is a testimonial to this physical breakdown of the wood.

UV light also causes another problem. In the process of destroying the lignin, very small cracks develop in the cedar shakes. These cracks allow water, bacteria, dirt, etc. to drive deeper into the wood. This, as you will see in a few moments, accelerates the destruction process.

Natural Preservatives

Cedar is one of the naturally occurring woods that contain high amounts of natural preservatives. The old growth cedar logs cut down 100 years ago tended to have higher amounts of these natural chemicals than the cedar logs of today. This is one reason why cedar roofs at the turn of the century required little or no maintenance.

The problem with these natural preservatives is that they dissolve in water. In fact, these chemicals are often referred to as extractives, because they can be "extracted" from the wood by water and other solvents.

When these extractives are leached from the cedar shakes, another phase of destruction begins. Water can more easily enter the wood cells, causing shrinking and swelling. Fungi which like to inhabit wood can also more easily grab a foothold. These fungi start a destructive process which, when left unchecked, will cause premature roof failure in short order.

Water Tubes

The nature of sawn wood causes it to more easily degrade than an unsawn log or branch. When a tree is living, it really is a collection of tubes, very small ones indeed, that extend from the ground up to the top of each branch.

However, when you saw a tree into logs and then turn it into something like cedar shakes, you partially expose, along their entire length, some of these tubes. Under a microscope these exposed tubes look something like U-shaped valleys or a freshly furrowed field. The depressions are great places for water, dirt, bacteria, mold spores, etc. to get trapped. Other roofing materials such as asphalt shingles, metal, slate, tile, etc. don't have this problem.

Sealants and preservatives can go a long way in temporarily filling these exposed tubes. In this way, you slow down water penetration which in turn slows down the loss of the natural extractive chemicals.

Keeping your Roof Dry

The key to extended life for cedar shakes is keeping them dry. Remember, water dissolves the extractive chemicals. Knowing this, do whatever is possible to remove debris such as leaves, pine needles, twigs, moss, low hanging branches, etc. from your roof. These things tend to hold moisture and slow down the evaporation of water from your shakes.

If building new, consider using as steep a pitch as possible. Low pitched roofs wear out faster than steep pitched roofs, it's that simple.

Periodically check your roof for debris buildup. This simple investment of time will pay big dividends. Your cedar shake roof could quite possibly last a lifetime with just a little care.

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Periodic Cleaning

As mentioned in another article, you must keep your roof clean and free of debris. Cedar roofs need vast amounts of air to keep them dry. Trim overhanging tree branches so that there is at least a 3 to 4 foot area above the roof. Don't let overhanging branches rub the roof or hang too closely. They simply inhibit evaporation of rain water or morning dew.

Moss Control

Moss is a major problem on shaded cedar shake roofs. Its presence can significantly shorten the life of your roof. Copper and zinc have proven to be very effective at stopping the growth of moss on cedar roofs. A copper ridge flashing may be all it takes to keep your roof clear of moss. You can also install zinc strips which expose 2 inches of metal at certain intervals as well. These strips release molecules of zinc with each rainfall. The strips look a little funny when first installed, however, they weather and take on a dull appearance in short order. They are a tremendous investment. Don't underestimate their value.

Cleaning a Dirty Roof

There are several ways to clean a cedar roof. Power washing with a pressurized machine is very effective. However, if an untrained person performs this procedure, shake damage, leakage, wood erosion, etc. are REAL possibilities.

When using water on a roof, either from a hose or a power washer, NEVER spray up the roof. Roofs use gravity to keep your house dry. Spraying water up the roof is not natural. By doing this, you will drive water up under your shakes. Drive water far enough and it will leak into your house. I guarantee it!

Many past publications have promoted the use of a cleaning solution that contains either regular or commercial strength bleach (sodium or calcium hypochlorite). These forms of bleach can actually harm your cedar shakes. They can cause cellular damage similar to that caused by UV light. They also will remove (bleach out) the natural extractive chemicals which give cedar its beautiful color tones. A better solution is to use oxygen bleach. It will clean your cedar shakes with no problems. It will not remove the color and it is environmentally safe, unlike standard bleaches.

Sealing & Preserving

After cleaning your roof, let it dry. This may take 2 to 3 days. Then, apply whichever product you have chosen exactly as it says to doon the label. Do not become your own testing laboratory. Manufacturers have gone to great lengths to determine application techniques and quantities. If you deviate from their instructions, you only stand to hurt yourself.

Using the proper type of application equipment is essential. If a product says to use a power airless sprayer, don't try to substitute a pump garden type sprayer. Use common sense!

Roof Safety

Roofs are dangerous places. I have fallen off several and lived to tell about it. Moss covered cedar shake roofs are like tilted, elevated ice skating rinks. Need I say more? Add water to these roofs and they become practically impassable.

Cleaning and sealing cedar shake roofs should not be attempted by a novice homeowner. Serious injury and death are very real possibilities.

Give serious consideration to hiring this job out. Let a seasoned professional clean and seal your cedar roof. Be absolutely sure this individual has worked on such jobs and is insured with Worker's Compensation. Make sure they attach a copy of their current certificate, indicating paid up coverage, to your contract. Don't underestimate how dangerous this job can be.

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Cedar Shakes - Literature / Association / Preservatives

NOTE FROM TIM CARTER - Founder of AsktheBuilder.com - posted October, 2016: I no longer would apply Defy deck sealer to any exterior wood that I own at my own home. Defy is made by the Saver Systems company listed below.

Want more information about cedar shakes? Everything you ever wanted to know is readily available and free for the asking. You can learn about how shakes are made, graded, treated for fire resistance, cleaning, repair, installation on new roofs, etc. Simply go to the following web site:

There are over 250 cedar producing mills in America and Canada. They produce different levels of quality. You need to make sure you have the best shakes if installing new or rebuilding an existing roof. If you want the best, you need to specify Certigrade, Certi-Split, or Certi-Sawn shakes or shingles. These trademark names can only be used by mills which are members of the Cedar Shake Bureau.

If you want to get up to speed quickly with respect to cedar shakes and shingles, read the Guide to Cedar Roofing on the website of Watkins Sawmills (www.watkinsawmills.com). This booklet hits the high spots and tells you important information concerning cedar shakes.

Preservatives & Sealants for Cedar Shake Roofs

• Sikkens Cetol SRD
• Duckback Products, Inc.
• Flood Company
• Saver Systems
• Wolman Company

Check out the product literature of these companies. Be sure to confirm that the product you choose can be used on your cedar shakes. Follow directions to the letter when using any of the products.

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Are you suffering from the stained roof syndrome? It's that dark staining that looks like someone spilled coffee up on your roof. This problem used to be associated with mildew in years past. Mildew is a by-product of fungi. However, it has been determined that another organism has invaded millions of newer asphalt shingle roofs around the USA. This organism is an algae, Gloeocapsa magma. It has experienced an explosive growth curve during the past 15 to 20 years quite by accident.

Ooooops!

A large number of homeowners who are experiencing these roof stain problems are doing so for the first time. Even though they live in areas where the climate has not changed, the problem appears out of the blue.

In years past, the algae simply didn't have a food source. This changed with the introduction of fiberglass shingles during the past 20 years. The fiberglass shingles made today contain massive amounts of food that the algae loves to eat -- that food being limestone.

How in the world does limestone get into fiberglass shingles you might ask? It's simple. The limestone is added to the asphalt mixture as a filler or thickener. This rock has been added for decades.

Years ago an organic felt mat was used as the base for the shingles. This mat was saturated with asphalt and then coated with granules. Because of the absorptive qualities of the mat, it was able to soak up enough asphalt to give the finished shingle sufficient weight. The materials used for the mat were derived from the cotton rag scrap market.

Well, about 20 years ago, this rag market dried up because of the widespread introduction of synthetic textiles, such as nylon and polyester. The shingle manufacturers scrambled and decided to use fiberglass as a mat.

However, a problem quickly arose. The thinner fiberglass mat didn't absorb asphalt like the old organic mat. Something had to be added to the asphalt to increase the weight of the shingle. BINGO! My guess is, based on the explosion of black stains on roofs all across the USA, some manufacturers decided to use more limestone which is plentiful and cheap. Well, you know the rest of the story.

Flashings Solve the Problem

As people complained to the shingle manufacturers about this problem, they began to notice that on certain portions of some roofs the algae wouldn't grow. Commonly, these areas were just downslope of a chimney or a plumbing vent stack. It didn't take too long for them to figure out that just above these areas were zinc or copper metal roof flashings.

Apparently, each time it rains, small amounts of copper and zinc wash down the roof in theses areas. The minute amounts of these metals seem to be enough to poison the algae.

Well, the shingle manufacturers called up the Industrial Mineral Products Division of the 3M Corporation. You see, these are the guys that supply the shingle manufacturers with all those nice colored granules.

The 3M people figured out a way to coat certain granules with copper. These granules are then covered with the same color as the rest of the granules. Anyway, the copper actually leaks through the coloring and makes the shingle unsavory for the algae.

These shingles carry a lifetime warranty from many of the shingle manufacturers, so that you don't have to worry as to how long the copper will last.

Newer, Existing Roofs

Millions of people have roofs that are stained. But, they are not yet ready to replace all their shingles. So what should they (you) do? It's easy! You just need to clean your roof and introduce some copper as high as possible on your roof.

Cleaning a shingle roof that has this algae infestation is not that hard. It is DANGEROUS work, but not hard. The trick is to apply standard treated wood deck cleaners to your roof and follow the instructions.

However, you shouldn't use just any deck cleaner. You must use a deck cleaning product that contains a safe cleaning agent such as oxygen bleach. Sodium percarbonate does the same job as chlorine bleach. However, chlorine bleach is harmful to you, your roof, your gutters and downspouts, and any plants it might come in contact with. Want more information as to how to get oxygen bleach? Just click the link!

If you decide to clean your own roof, BE CAREFUL. Wet roofs are slippery. These deck cleaners are slippery. You can easily fall off your roof and either die or become permanently crippled. I'm serious. So, if you still want to do this, and not hire a professional, be sure to wear an OSHA-approved safety harness. Also, do not direct the hose spray UP the roof! Water can get under shingles and leak into your house. Always spray down the roof.

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Manufacturers of Algae Resistant Shingles

Algae resistant shingles are usually available in all 50 states of the USA. To locate a local supplier, simply choose one of the following manufacturers that you feel comfortable with.

You can also go to the 3M web site and read about their Algae Resistant Roofing System. They have fantastic information about the algae Gloeocapsa magma. Some of this information is unbelievable!

Also, take a look at the web site of the Asphalt Roofing Manufacturers Association (www.asphaltroofing.org). They have a great publication in PDF format titled Algae Discoloration of Roofs.

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Slate Roofing - Facts & Tips

Slate roofing is one of the most distinguished building products that I know of. It graces many of the most impressive buildings in the world. Cathedrals, palaces, residential homes, and castles have incorporated this long lasting building material as a weathershield. In fact, it was the king of roofing materials at the turn of the twentieth century. United States slate consumption was at its highest in 1902.

A Natural Stone Product

Slate is really nothing more than mud. Mud that has been squeezed and heated. Fine particles of clay and silt build up in thin layers at the bottom of shallow seas or at the mouths of large river deltas. These sediments then turn into a rock called shale. Mountain building processes can heat and pressurize the shale changing its chemistry.

The clay and silt crystallize into quartz, chlorite, and different micas, all of which are very durable materials. This is one of the reasons why slate lasts so long.

The chemistry change also imparts a negative quality. The metamorphosis that creates slate makes it brittle. This characteristic is responsible for many of the common slate roof failures.

Slate vs. Wood ... Winner is ...

Often people come home to a shattered slate shingle on their driveway. Or, a piece of slate has buried itself into the grass. These falling objects are dangerous.

They detach from the roof because of the brittle nature of slate. The slate may have fractured when it was installed or expansion and contraction forces at work on the roof deck creates stresses which crack slate.

Nailing slate shingles correctly is very tedious work. Drive the nail too far and you can easily crack a slate. Leave the nail proud of the surface and you risk causing a problem with the overlying shingle. This high nail head creates a pressure point below the overlying shingle.

Roof sheathing itself can cause problems. Wood is hygroscopic. It attracts and liberates moisture in an attempt to reach an equilibrium with outdoor humidity. This property cause the wood to shrink and swell. These movements can cause the nails that hold a slate shingle to pinch a corner. This stress causes the shingle to fracture and detach from the roof. Slate is not supposed to be nailed to a roof. It is supposed to hang from the nails much like a picture hangs on a wall.

Weight & Wind

A few years ago, a new home was built here in Cincinnati in a very exclusive neighborhood called Indian Hill. The design called for a slate roof. The house was built and slate began falling to the ground on a very regular basis. An autopsy of the situation revealed that the roof framing was inadequate. The steep roof slope was acting like a sail in the wind. Wind would hit the roof, flex and bend the trusses and break the slate. I believe this problem is still in our justice system, if you know what I mean. Once again, the brittle quality of slate rules supreme.

Older homes that have slate roofing have substantial roof framing members. The roof rafters are actual 2 x 6's or 2 x 8's 16 inches on center. the roof decks are 3/4 inch solid sheathing. There is very little, if any, flex.

In Europe, slate roofing is an art form and a science. New structures that use slate often install it on battens. Battens are strips of wood nailed perpendicular to the roof rafters. We call it spaced sheathing here in the USA. This method helps to extend the life of the slate if it is subjected to freezing temperatures or acid rain.

Fast Dry is Best

Slate doesn't absorb much water at all. However, the water it does absorb can and does destroy it over time. Rain water in industrial areas can turn into mild acid. This acid attacks the minerals in the slate and can dissolve them.

Water which turns to ice causes tiny micro fractures which blow the slate apart. Freezing and thawing cycles are like mini jack hammers that take layer after layer of slate off a shingle.

Slate that dries rapidly between periods of precipitation minimizes this damage. Spaced sheathing or battens allows air to circulate under the slate. This simple technique can add years to your slate roof if you are thinking of building a new home. The European roofers are real pros, don't try to reinvent the wheel on your home!

Accessory Materials

Do you have a slate roof in good condition? Did you know that it is not uncommon for a slate roof to last 100 - 150 years? The other parts of your roof should be designed to last as long. For example, the metal flashings should be copper. Tin plated steel or galvanized steel have much shorter service lives. Besides, the copper costs just a little more! The labor to install these different metals is virtually the same. You should only have to pay for the difference in material costs.

The same is true for the nails. Consider using copper nails. A typical galvanized nail may only last 30-50 years before rusting. Special lead flashings for plumbing vent pipes are long lasting alternatives to the aluminum and rubber flashing you see at the home centers.

Look, No Nails!

If you are considering a new house or building and choose to use slate roofing, you now have a new option. There is a system by which the slate hangs from tracks. There are no nails in the slate that can pinch them. Furthermore the tracks hold the slate off the roof deck allowing adequate ventilation. It is an excellent way to attach slate to our modern plywood sheathed roofs. This system was developed by Slate International.

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Slate Literature Sources

Helpful and informative slate literature is available from the following slate quarriers and distributors. Also, I have listed two superb trade publications that have written numerous authoritative articles on all aspects of slate roofing. Back issues as well as an index are usually available at your local library. Or you can contact the publishers for information on researching your specific topic. Good luck!

Quarriers: (Companies that mine slate from the Earth and turn it into workable material)

Magazine Literature Sources

• Fine Homebuilding
  This excellent publication has produced no less than 28 slate roofing related articles over the past 10 - 12 years. Virtually all of the information is timeless. Many of the articles are written by true slate craftsmen.

• Journal of Light Construction
  The Journal is a fantastic magazine written for tradespeople. However, the magazine is edited in such a fashion that a serious DIY'r or an average homeowner can clearly understand the topics. Contact the magazine's editorial staff for a guide to past articles on slate roofing.

Related Articles:  Slate Roofing, Repair or Replace?, Repairing Slate Roofing

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Repairing a Slate Roof

I'm often asked by homeowners if slate repair is a DIY'r project. In almost all instances, I say NO! There are several reasons. First, working on roofs can be dangerous. If you are not used to slippery, steep slopes, you can easily fall. Experienced roofers fall from roofs all the time. Second, the tools required for this job are somewhat specialized. The manner in which the tools are used is also specialized. Nailing slate is an art. We have already discussed that.

OK, so I haven't convinced you yet? Well, call your life insurance agent. I'll get the tools out of my truck and meet you at the bottom of the ladder.

The Tools

We need a nail removal tool called a ripper, a slater's hammer and maybe a trimmer. The trimmer is basically an industrial strength paper cutter. It simply trims slate to size.

The Tricks

The first task is to remove the remains of the broken slate or any hidden nails. This is easy with a ripper. The ripper is a thin flat piece of iron that resembles a flat ship anchor. It has a handle that allows you to slide it up underneath the slate. The tips of the anchor hook onto the nails. Tapping the handle down slope, pulls the heads off and/or removes the nails entirely. There are usually two nails in the top of each slate shingle. One at each corner. With both nails out, the slate slides out easily.

Now, did you remember to get replacement slate that matches in color, texture, and thickness? OK, just checking. My favorite way to hold the new slate in place is to nail a one and one half inch wide copper strip. This strip is installed directly on top and in the middle of the two shingles in the row (course) immediately below where we are working. The copper strip must be long enough so that it will bend up and around the replacement slate 1 inch after we are finished. The new replacement slate will slide over this strip.

Drill a hole in the crease between the two lower shingles. This hole will penetrate the top of the slate shingle two courses below where we are working. If you do not drill this hole, the nail will shatter that slate! Nail the copper strip carefully so that the nail goes in between the two lower pieces of slate and into the drilled hole. Slide the replacement slate into position and bend the copper up and over the slate. Once on the ground it will be tough to see this fine copper line, so don't worry about appearance.

Now, let's gather up the tools and get down from up here! Did you secure the ladder to the gutter so it won't slip when we get back on it? Hey, watch out! Don't step on that rung above the gutter, the bottom of the ladder may pivot! How come your knuckles are white? Does the thin air up here bother you? Click your heels 3 times and say, "There's no place like the ground. There's no place like the ground.........."

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Aluminum Gutters - Traditional vs. Seamless

Back in the late 80's, I did a remodeling job on a house that was only three years old. The challenge was to convert an open-air deck into an enclosed room. I always prided myself in being able to match all interior and exterior details of the jobs I did. However, this new home included a product that I only used when a customer insisted - "seamless" gutters.

Now don't get me wrong. It's not that I don't like seamless gutters - the concept is fantastic. My dissatisfaction was with the companies and techniques used to install them. The particular people I had to use employed technicians who were definitely at the bottom of the food chain.

Steel vs. Aluminum

Aluminum gutters are a great product. They don't rust, are available in popular colors, can be painted to match other colors and can be shaped quite easily. These rain handling devices have been around for close to 30 years. Prior to the early 60's gutters were made from galvanized steel. Steel gutters were strong and durable. However, installing them took talent. Joints required solder. Painting them was a challenge. If you didn't remove the mill oil finish, the paint would rapidly peel. Aluminum gutters offered a breakthrough in technology.

Seamless - A Myth???

Have you been approached by a salesperson telling you the benefits of seamless gutters? They tell you about how seams leak. They say how your leak problems are gone forever. Hogwash! Seamless gutters have all kinds of 'seams' - places where leaks can develop. There is a seam at each end of the gutter. There is a seam at each outlet tube. There is a seam every time the gutter turns a corner. All of these places can leak. So, don't buy a 'seamless' gutter just because it supposedly doesn't leak.

Aluminum Alternative

OK, so now you don't want seamless gutters. What do you do? Well, how about aluminum gutters that are just like seamless gutters but offer more advantages? Forget about avoiding seams. It is impossible to do, no matter what material you choose to use: steel, copper, tin, or aluminum.

Did you know you can get a traditional aluminum gutter system that looks like a seamless gutter, is stronger than most seamless gutters, and comes in lengths up to 37 feet long? Did you know this same system has an invisible hanger system so you don't see those ugly spike heads?

Comparison Points

If you are selecting gutters for your house, I suggest you focus your attention on important attributes that pertain to how long the system will last. For example, how are the gutters attached to your home? Old fashioned spikes and ferrules or new floating hangers? Floating hangers allow the gutter to expand and contract. Spikes and ferrules do too. But guess what? The spikes and ferrules will loosen over time as the gutters go back and forth!

What about the thickness of the gutter material? The best aluminum gutters are made using aluminum that is .032 inch thick. A thinner material may dent or crease when a branch strikes it or you set a ladder against it.

Hang 'em High

Some seamless gutter systems and traditional gutters are available with a special hanger system. These hangers take the place of the older spikes and ferrules. Aside from being unattractive, spikes also attach to your house in the weakest possible manner. The spikes are driven into the end grain of the rafter tails. Nails driven into the end grain of wood have the lowest holding power.

Some new hangers allow you to nail down through the roof sheathing into the top of the rafter. This maximizes holding power. The hangers also allow the gutter to 'float'. It can expand and contract without restriction as temperatures fluctuate. Expansion and contraction problems can lead to leaks. The gutter will relieve these stresses at the weakest point - usually a seam!

Traditional aluminum gutters can deal with expansion. At least one manufacturer - Alcoa - has a special expansion joint designed to relieve stress. These joints are easy to install. Expansion joints should always be installed on any gutter that extends more than 40 feet. In addition, these joints will minimize stress on mitered joints. So, if your gutters turn corners, say on a hip roof, you had better consider these wonderful devices. Expansion joints are often not available with 'seamless' gutters.

What About Size - 5 or 6 inch?

Aluminum gutters are available in two common sizes: 5 inch or 6 inch. Most houses have 5 inch gutters. A 6 inch gutter can handle more water before overflowing. However, a 6 inch gutter also requires some preplanning. The fascia or gutter board behind the gutter needs to be sized correctly.

Most builders install a 1x6 gutter board. This works well for 5 inch gutters. 6 inch gutter must have a 1x8 gutter board. Without it, the bottom of the gutter can actually fall below the bottom of the gutter board. This often looks very awkward.

Corrosion Problems

Aluminum will not rust. That's a fact. But, it will corrode. Never place aluminum in contact with another metal such as steel, copper, or tin. Electrolysis will happen and the aluminum will actually disappear! Not only that, the chemicals in concrete, stucco, brick mortar, and treated lumber can cause corrosion. You need to isolate the aluminum from these materials with a sheet of rubber or heavy plastic.

Time to Decide

OK, it's time to buy. What to do? Well, think about hangers. Think about expansion. Think about size. Above all, think about warranties and who will install your gutters. Look for a company and an installer who will be around if a problem occurs. Avoid bottom feeders! Think smart.

Downspout Quantity and Sizing

Downspouts come in two common sizes: 2 x 3 inches and 3 x 4 inches. Downspouts depend entirely on gravity to function. Water isn't 'pumped' through them. So, a 2 x 3 inch downspout will comfortably carry the average rainfall from approximately 600 square feet of roof area. A 3 x 4 inch downspout will handle the rainfall from 1,200 square feet of roof. As far as I'm concerned, you can't have too many downspouts. Avoid trying to empty one long gutter at one end with a single downspout. Place a downspout at each end. A 2 x 3 inch downspout is made for 5 inch gutter. The 3 x 4 is for 6 inch gutter. The outlet tube configuration is what limits this fact. Don't forget the bird cages or leak strainers! These devices prevent clogs in underground pipes.

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Traditional & Seamless Gutter Companies

The following companies make gutter systems. Not all companies distribute to all parts of the USA. Furthermore, seamless gutters are always done by small local jobbers or contractors. They simply buy large rolls of painted aluminum. A machine on a truck takes the flat aluminum and "makes" a gutter onsite. Furthermore, the gutter can be as long as the roll - 250 to 500 feet long! Alcoa and Gentek make traditional aluminum gutters. Alcoa has a superb system. I used it on my house when I built it 10 years ago. The hanger system works just great. Check out the web sites of the following manufacturers. You have nothing to lose but time.

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