Natural Gas vs. Firewood Cost Survey

Posted on June 29, 2005 by Tim Carter

The following 1996 survey was compiled by comparing the cost to operate a vented set of fire logs that burned an average of 75,000 BTU's per hour vs. the cost of burning seasoned firewood at the rate of approximately 21 pounds per hour. The firewood cost was based on purchasing a full cord at one time. The gas prices are winter rates. The firewood prices were obtained from leading firewood distributors.

The first set of numbers listed under each city is for natural gas. The second set of numbers is the firewood cost.

City	Gas Log Cost	Firewood Cost
Albuquerque	$0.17 - 0.22	$0.95 - 1.22
Atlanta	$0.42 - 0.55	$0.95 - 1.20
Baltimore	$0.32 - 0.42	$0.99 - 1.27
Birmingham	$0.39 - 0.51	$0.67 - 0.86
Boston	$0.48 - 0.63	$1.06 - 1.36
Charlotte	$0.37 - 0.48	$0.65 - 0.83
Chicago	$0.29 - 0.38	$0.47 - 0.58
Cleveland	$0.31 - 0.41	$1.04 - 1.33
Columbus	$0.35 - 0.45	$0.90 - 1.15
Dallas	$0.39 - 0.51	$0.78 - 0.99
Denver	$0.43 - 0.69	$1.19 - 1.52
El Paso	$0.13 - 0.17	$1.12 - 1.43
Houston	$0.26 - 0.34	$1.08 - 1.38
Indianapolis	$0.28 - 0.37	$0.76 - 0.97
Kansas City	$0.22 - 0.29	$0.67 - 0.85
Las Vegas	$0.35 - 0.46	$1.58 - 2.02
Lexington	$0.37 - 0.49	$0.73 - 0.96
Los Angeles	$0.66 - 0.89	$1.02 - 1.61
Miami	$0.37 - 0.45	$1.12 - 1.46
Minneapolis	$0.28 - 0.37	$1.04 - 1.33
Nashville	$0.42 - 0.55	$0.79 - 0.98
New Orleans	$0.27 - 0.35	$1.08 - 1.38
New York City	$0.46 - 0.60	$1.03 - 1.31
Philadelphia	$0.32 - 0.42	$0.86 - 1.10
Phoenix	$0.32 - 0.42	$1.82 - 2.32
Pittsburgh	$0.29 - 0.38	$1.15 - 1.47
Raleigh	$0.39 - 0.51	$0.79 - 1.00
St. Louis	$0.27 - 0.36	$0.68 - 0.87
Salt Lake City	$0.63 - 0.71	$1.12 - 1.43
San Antonio	$0.28 - 0.37	$1.08 - 1.38
San Francisco	$0.36 - 0.47	$1.62 - 2.07
Seattle	$0.35 - 0.50	$0.71 - 0.92
Tulsa	$0.32 - 0.42	$0.47 - 0.60
Washington, D.C.	$0.57 - 0.74	$1.08 - 1.38

Fireplace Installation

Posted on June 29, 2005 by Tim Carter

Gas Fireplace Logs Installation Tips

The first thing you need to do is read the instructions. Once you have completed that, take a close look at the fittings. You should notice some brass fittings called flare fittings. If you are not familiar with flare fitting for gas connections, ask the help of a professional. Flare fittings are quite easy, however, it helps to have a pro tell or show you just how to tighten them.

Pay attention to the clearances to combustible items as outlined in the instructions. Vent free logs produce massive amounts of heat! You may ignite something inadvertently!

If you are purchasing a set of vent free logs, you must proceed very slowly. The installation and connection of the burner is critical. The burner is finely tuned and must be positioned correctly to burn just right. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter.

Be sure to install the logs in the fireplace before trying to connect the gas to them. This will tell you the proper placement of the burner or burner pan. Many a gas log has been installed too far forward or too deep into the fireplace because of this oversight. Don't let it happen to you!

Vented logs require just a touch of artistry. Once the burner pan is connected, you must install the sand, then the burnt embers around the edges of the fire floor. Over the sand, install the vermiculite and rock wool. These components are the things that glow. They need to be directly over the sand and burner so that the gas passes through them.

Turn the gas on low for the first time. Within a few seconds, you should have a flame. Turn the gas up slowly to the desired height, sit back and enjoy your fire!

Manufacturers of Gas Fireplace Logs

Posted on June 29, 2005 by Tim Carter

Gas Fireplace Manufacturers

A few make gas logs of exceptional quality and realism. Believe me, you will rapidly see the distinction when you start to shop. Check out the web sites of these organizations before you go. Good luck!

Fireplace Manufacturers Incorporated
800-888-2050
Fuego - Flame Fireplaces
800-445-1867
Hargrove Hearth Products
918-241-4166
Heat-N-Glo Fireplace Products
800-669-4328
Heatmaster Gas Logs
919-639-4568
Robert H. Peterson Co.
800-332-3973
Portland Willamette
503-288-7511
Rasmussen Iron Works
562-696-8718
Readybuilt Products
800-626-2901

Associations

American Gas Association
http://www.aga.org/
Gas Appliance Manufacturers Association
http://www.gamanet.org/
Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association
http://www.hpba.org/

Gas Fireplace & Ventless Gas Fireplace Choices

Posted on June 29, 2005 by Tim Carter

Realism

If you are familiar with the gas logs of 20 to 25 years ago, don't quit reading just yet. Those older logs were very fake. The flames were not realistic and the logs themselves just didn't look right.

Today, there is a good chance that if you saw a high quality set of gas logs actually burning, you would very likely think they are real. The logs are extremely realistic. Several manufacturers even offer different wood species! Certain types of gas logs (vented) come with vermiculite and glass wool. When the gas flames lick around these items, they look exactly like glowing embers in a real wood fire. The display is dramatic. In fact, just eight days ago, I installed another set for a friend. We turned the logs on for the first time and my friend was absolutely amazed. You will be too!

The Two Types

Years ago, there was only one type of gas log, that being the vented type. These are still made today. However, energy conservation trends produced gas appliances that are vent free. This technology found its way into the U.S. gas log market not too long ago. The technology actually started in Europe many years ago.

The vented logs are those that require a working chimney. They produce vast amounts of heat (some up to 90,000 BTU's per hour.) But, since you must open the fireplace damper as if burning a wood fire, most of this heat escapes up the chimney (85 to 90 percent!)

Vented gas logs also produce massive amounts of carbon monoxide, a deadly, toxic gas. This carbon monoxide results from the low tech burner that is used to combust the gas. In most cases, the gas simply escapes from a simple pipe that has holes drilled into it. This pipe is usually covered with silica sand. The gas filters through the sand so that the entire area under the gas log set appears to be on fire.

Vent free gas logs are entirely different. They have specially designed burners that are not covered with anything. They are hidden underneath and behind the logs. These burners are adjusted so that enough air is supplied to the burner to combust the natural gas with top efficiency. This combustion process produces a minimum of carbon monoxide.

Furthermore, as an additional safety measure, to protect against the buildup of carbon monoxide in a confined space, vent free logs approved by the American Gas Association (AGA) are equipped with oxygen depletion sensors (ODS). These sensors can tell how much oxygen is left in the air near the bottom of your floor. As carbon monoxide starts to build up, it dilutes/depletes the amount of oxygen in the room(s) / confined space. This, in turn, activates the sensor and the gas shuts off to the logs. All of this happens long before you would feel the effects of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Because you cannot cover the burners of vent free logs with anything, you cannot experience the burning ember effect with these products. These logs are not as realistic as the vented gas logs.

Moisture Problem Potential

The burning of natural gas produces large quantities of water (1.5 gallons for every 100,00 BTU's of gas burned.) If you live in an area that heats with natural gas, just go outside on a cold winter's day and look at everyone's chimney. Do you see that white vapor or steam issuing out from all the chimneys? That is the water vapor that is produced inside of everyone's furnace or hot water heater.

This same thing happens when you ignite your gas log set. If you have a vented set, this vapor travels up the chimney just like that of your furnace or hot water heater. In certain instances (when the gas logs are burning on low), you may have a slight problem. If your chimney is extremely cold, this water vapor might condense and run back down your chimney. When the logs are burning with more intensity, this is usually not a problem, as the flue gets nice and warm.

Vent free logs, on the other hand, can sometimes create massive problems with regard to this moisture. Since the logs do not vent to the outside, all of this moisture is trapped inside your house. Condensation can develop on cold surfaces. If this happens in an area you cannot see (attic, inside exterior walls, etc.), you may begin to experience problems. However, some people who heat with radiators may desire and need this extra humidity in their homes. You will have to judge for yourself.

Safety Issues

If you are not proficient at working with natural gas, by all means have a professional install your gas logs. Also, if you purchase a vented set of gas logs, have your existing chimney cleaned by a professional chimney sweep. The heat and moisture from the gas logs can cause major staining problems with the soot and creosote buildup in wood burning chimneys.

If you purchase a vented set of logs, be sure to fix your fireplace damper in the open position with a clamp. If you fail to do this, carbon monoxide cannot escape out the chimney! With wood fires, you know quickly that a damper is closed because of smoke buildup. This will NOT happen with your gas logs!

Give serious consideration to purchasing a carbon monoxide detector no matter which type of gas log you buy. It's better to be safe than sorry.

Home Inspectors & Buying New Homes

Posted on June 29, 2005 by Tim Carter

Do you remember the last time you purchased a new car? There is some magical spell that is cast upon you when you cross the threshold of the car dealership. I call it New Car Fever. I believe it has something to do with the unmistakable aroma of new car upholstery, bright chrome, and fenders with no dents.

The same sort of feeling happens when you start looking for a new home. You have a tendency to overlook flaws. This happens - I believe - because certain brain reasoning/judgment chemicals are blocked by the stronger dream chemicals.

Purchase my Easy-to-Use Home Inspection Checklist Now. This Simple-To-Use Tool allows you to spot many defects before you have to hire a real inspector. You can then eliminate a house and move on to one with fewer defects.

You have nothing to lose. If my checklist doesn't work for you, I'll give you your money back. Oh, one more thing, it's an Instant Download! You can have the checklist in your hands just minutes from now!

You Need Help...

When buying a new or existing home, you need some help. The best help comes from a person who has no emotional attachment to the buying transaction whatsoever. A friend or family member is not always the best choice. They may share in your excitement and possibly overlook obvious flaws in the house or lot. Mistakes like this can be costly.

I believe the best person to be your guide through the house evaluation process is a seasoned home inspector. This person checks the health of the house and issues you a concise written report.

Expectations

Is it reasonable for an inspector to find every flaw in a house? Not really. Very few people have x-ray vision like the comic book hero Superman. It is unrealistic for you to expect such performance from a home inspector.

Seasoned inspectors can detect problems from very small clues. They may see a small deposit of efflorescence on a basement wall that you didn't even see. This powdery deposit is a sure sign of water infiltration or leakage. An inspector may note that you are buying a house at the bottom of a hill or in a valley. This may present a problem during periods of heavy rain.

Some inspection companies offer different types of inspections. One is more detailed and thorough than the other. If you are making a major investment, a detailed inspection may be worth its weight in gold at a later date.

Realtor Referrals

I happen to be a licensed real estate broker. I have had my broker's license for nearly 15 years. Home inspectors can be deal killers. In other words, a salesperson or a broker works his/her tail off to sell a house. The inspector comes along and finds numerous faults. The buyers back out of the deal and start the process all over. Each additional hour the Realtor spends dilutes the earned commission. Can you see where I am headed with this one? A dishonest or hungry Realtor may want you to use an easy inspector. I know this for a fact as it has been discussed in my continuing education classes! You can ask for names of home inspectors from your Realtor, but I would personally choose one that is certified by an association that requires rigorous testing and re-certification.

Pre-Inspections

Hiring a home inspector to look at each house you are interested in can get expensive. If you have never purchased a house before, you are at the greatest risk of making a mistake. The checklist I have developed should allow you to notice defects that can cost you significant dollars to repair or replace. Use the checklist as a report card for each house you look at. You will soon see that there is no such thing as a perfect house, but ones that can come close.

Never the First One

Don't ever make an offer on the first house you look at. It can be deadly. You need to look at 4 or 5 houses at a minimum - if possible - to get a feel of what is on the market in your area. You will be shocked at the difference in houses and the care taken to maintain them. Pay attention to details when possible. Look at storage opportunities. Pay attention to compass orientation. In other words, which way does the sun shine into what windows? It may be important if you are a gardener.

Overall Condition

When you walk through a house for the first time, go slowly. Look at the walls, ceiling, floors and fixtures. Judge the overall condition. Write down your thoughts on a pad of paper as you go. You may look strange, but these notes will prove invaluable if and when you sit down to make an offer on the house. If there are lots of minor defects, you can incorporate a fix-it list into your offer or deduct monies from your purchase offering price to cover the repairs.

The Inspection Contingency

The language in your offer to purchase regarding your professional home inspection is critical. You need to make sure that you can get out of the contract AND get all of your earnest money back if there is a big problem!

EXTRA NEWS from Tim Carter:
Purchase my Easy-to-Use Home Inspection Checklist Now. This Simple-To-Use Tool allows you to spot many defects before you have to hire a real inspector. You can then eliminate a house and move on to one with fewer defects.

Home Inspection Checklist

Posted on June 29, 2005 by Tim Carter

Home Inspection Checklist

The following checklist in NOT intended to replace a full blown inspection by a professional home inspector. Those inspections are detailed (or should be!) and seasoned inspectors can spot evidence of problems that you might otherwise overlook.

The purpose of this Incomplete and Free checklist below is to give you a very rough idea if the house is even worth considering. I've created some quick things you should look at that might completely nix the deal if I was considering buying the house.

If you want to walk around and through the house with a high-powered checklist that will help you identify many of the defects in the house BEFORE you make an offer, then I recommend you consider buying my Whole House Inspection Checklist. It's Instant Download and it comes with a money-back guarantee. It could save you Tens of Thousands of Dollars. You CAN'T afford to make a mistake in a deal as big as buying a house.

Take your time and write down the answers to your questions. Once the homeowner or Realtor sees you writing down answers, they will give you crisp responses to your questions!

Exterior:

1. Driveway Condition: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

2. Sidewalk and Patio: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

3. Topography: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

4. Exterior Drainage - CRITICAL! (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

5. Trees / Landscaping: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

6. Fencing: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __ None __

7. Detached garage / shed: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

8. Swimming Pool: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

9. Gutters / Downspouts: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

10. Siding Condition: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

Basement / Crawlspace:

11. Wall Cracks / Defects: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

12. Evidence of Seepage - (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

13. Crawlspace Vapor Barrier: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

14: Floor Slab: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

15: Staircase / Handrail: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

16: Lighting: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

Furnace / Air Conditioning:

17. Equipment Cleanliness: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

18. Vent Pipe Condition: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

19. Furnace Filter - ASK to see! (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

20. Air Conditioner Unit Paint: Looks New ___ Looks Old __

Plumbing System:

21. Water Heater Age -(Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

22. Faucets Dripping: Yes __ No __

23. Noisy Drain Pipes when Toilets Flushed: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

24. Visible Corrosion on Pipes: Yes __ No __

25. Sinks and Tub Drainage: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

Electrical System:

26. Main Service Cable: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

27. Extra circuit breaker space: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

28. GFCI outlets at wet/sink locations: Yes ___ No ___

29. Outdoor outlets: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

30. Adequate room receptacles: Yes ___ No ___

Kitchen:

31. Cabinets / Tops: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

32. Appliances: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

33. Flooring: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

Baths:

34. Fixtures: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

35. Flooring: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

Windows:

36. Do windows operate? Yes ___ No ___

37. Insulated glass - Windows fogged? Yes ___ No ___

38. Drapes / Shades: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

Doors:

39. Operation : Smooth __ Rub against Frame ___

40. Lock Operation: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

Fireplace:

41. Overall appearance: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

42. Damper operation: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

Roof:

43. Appearance: Looks Worn ___ Looks New ___

44. Metal Flashings: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

Attic:

45. Minimum 14 - 18 inches Insulation: Yes __ No __

46. Visible mildew or damaged wood: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

47. Visible soffit and ridge ventilation: Yes __ No __

48. Visible water leaks: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

49: Functioning Storage Space: Yes __ No __

50. Access: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

Home Inspector Certification Associations

Posted on June 29, 2005 by Tim Carter

! ! !See Author's Notes at Bottom of the Column ! ! !

The growth of the home inspection industry has been unbelievable over the past 10 years. I routinely see advertisements in my trade publications about Earn Extra Income - Be a Home Inspector!. These ads make it seem like you read a 25 page booklet or some other information and you are ready to go. If you have one of these people inspect your home, you may be in for a few surprises.

Learning how to perform a home inspection can't be done in a day, a week, or even several months. It requires large sums of book knowledge coupled with field experience taught by a seasoned inspector. It isn't much different than many other professions. There is no substitute for experience when the largest investment of your life is one the line!

I was able to identify three home inspection certification programs / associations. There may be more out there to be sure. The three that I found had very different requirements for membership. I have listed them below with an explanation of what is required to become certified. I urge you to call each organization yourself if you want to find out more.

Home Inspection Certification Associations

American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI)
932 Lee Street
Suite 101
Des Plaines, Illinois 60016
800-743-2744

ASHI is by far the toughest group to join and maintain membership. They require that the person have completed no less than 250 paid professional home inspections and the completion of two written examinations. Once a person becomes a member, he/she must take 40 hours of continuing education every 2 years. No other association certification program I could find even came close to these requirements.

Housing Inspection Federation (HIF)
8383 East Evans Road
Scottsdale, Arizona 85260
602-998-4422

To become certified by HIF, all you need to do is fill out a simple application form and send in $165. Well, actually, I am wrong about one thing, the application form doesn't have to be completely filled out. Once HIF gets your money, you are certified. Need I say more?

(September 2007) An Internet search for updated information on the Housing Inspection Federation has not returned any positive results. A website listing returned a page not found. The Environmental Assessment Association is now located at that address. Their web is under construction.

National Association of Certified Home Inspectors
1750 30th Street
Boulder, CO 80301
303-502-6214

According to NACHI’s web, “Unlike other home inspection associations, NACHI front-ends many of its membership requirements. In other words, all of our members must fulfill membership requirements before they can apply for membership. Other associations have little or no entrance requirements and encourage their members and associates to go out and perform hundreds of unqualified inspections for poor, unsuspecting consumers.” They require the passage of several online examinations before acceptance. Additional steps are required before becoming a full member.

National Association of Home Inspectors (NAHI)
4248 Park Glen Road
Minneapolis, MN 55416
800-448-3942

NAHI allows you to become a member if you send in a copy of an inspection you do for a friend or family member, a copy of a pre-inspection agreement (they send you a sample if you don't have one), copies of any other related certificates, licenses, etc. If you score enough points and send in your dues / fees, you get certified. Examination and continuing education are optional.

Author's Notes:

I received the following email January 25,2006:

Thank you for the article informing the public on home inspection. We would like to clarify a few points you've made:

NAHI does not "automatically certify" new members. To be granted membership, we are unique from many inspector organizations in that we require a copy of an inspection report the inspector has actually completed.

This report is reviewed by experts to determine whether the individual has an acceptable level of competency and to insure the report complies with the NAHI Standards of Practice. If the individual meets this criteria, as well as attending a NAHI accredited school, we grant them an Associate membership. This is only the first level of membership. The second level of membership, Regular, is for those who have completed at least 100 full fee paid home inspections and have passed either the NAHI CRI, NHIE, or CREIA examinations.

If the member wants to become a NAHI Certified Real Estate Inspector (CRI) they need to complete 250 inspections and pass the NAHI CRI proctored exam. Typically for most new members it will take several years to complete 250 inspections. NAHI members also have continuing education requirements to maintain their membership. NAHI hosts a multitude of national and regional conferences to assist members in maintaining their requirements. Many members exceed these requirements each year. As you can see, this coincides with NAHI's mission of helping the professional home inspector grow both personally and professionally, which ultimately helps consumers by working with a true professional.

Unfortunately, it appears that in the home inspection industry the term certified has been misused. The many organizations or schools in the industry uses it to describe someone who has taken a test or complete a course. There is no government standard, which defines the level of competency, experience or rigor necessary to pass a course or test. So in essence the term "certification" is like ChapStick or Kleenex, a generic term which is the crux of the problem we are facing. With the shear number schools and internet based organizations giving certifications and huge variation in qualifications, consumers are well advised to look beyond anyone who claims to be certified.

Both NAHI and the EBPHI (Examination Board of Professional Home Inspectors) have spent years developing and implementing true certification tests that are legally defensible. In other words, we can show how we created a profile of a competent home inspector and developed a test that could only be passed by this type of an individual. We can also show that we only deliver this test in a supervised environment and individuals do not have any outside assistance during the exam. This sets these two organizations apart from others and consumers can trust that members that have completed advanced training with these organizations.

We appreciate your efforts at educating consumers.

Rick Bunzel, NAHI Public Relations Chairman

All Types of Garage Door Manufacturers

Posted on June 29, 2005 by Tim Carter

Secure Garage Door Openers

If you own an older radio controlled opener, you can have a problem. A high tech thief will sit and copy your code. You leave to go to work and he simply retransmits the code! If you purchase an opener from one of the companies below, every time you press your radio controlled garage door opener it can randomly change the code to one of 4.3 billion different combinations! That will keep the thieves away from your house.

Genie Corporation
Overhead Door Corporation
Raynor Garage Doors
Wayne Dalton

Garage Door Manufacturers - All Types

The following categories list the major manufacturers of each type of garage door. As you would expect, each manufacturer makes several different types of doors. There is a lot of cross-over. Because models, features and options change, I suggest that you look for the following information on each web site:

installation suggestions and guidelines once you have narrowed your choice.
warranty information.
the closest distributor to you so that you might arrange to see the door(s) in person.

The installation information is very important. If you take 10 to 15 minutes to read this documentation, you will be able to identify how well your installer is following the manufacturer's instructions.

Fiberglass Garage Doors:

Clopay
General American Door Company
Raynor Garage Doors
Wayne Dalton Corp.

Hardboard Panel Doors

Clopay
Overhead Door Corp.
Wayne Dalton Corp.
General American Door
Raynor Garage Doors

Metal & Wood Garage Doors

Clopay
General American Door
Holmes Garage Doors
Overhead Door Corp.
Raynor Garage Doors
Wayne Dalton Corp.
Sections, Inc.
1st United Door Technologies
Designer Doors
Everite Door Company
Taylor Door
Summit Door

Old-Fashioned Swing Doors

Do you have an old Victorian or Tudor home with the side-hinged garage doors on your detached garage? Would you like to keep that look but convert to an overhead door? Guess what? It is possible!

Several companies make overhead doors that will fool anyone who looks at them. They look like they are 100 years old! I suggest you look at the web sites of the following companies. You will not be disappointed!

Amarr Garage Doors
Bob Timberlake Millwork
Designer Doors, Inc.
Don Reese Builders
C.H.I. Overhead Doors
Windsor Door
Designer Doors
Sections, Inc.

Garage Door Associations

The following organization can provide you with some specialized information about garage doors and their components:

Door & Access Systems Manufacturers Association International (www.dasma.com)

Garage Door Maintenance

Posted on June 29, 2005 by Tim Carter

Springs

Probably the most important part of a garage door are the springs. These beasts are the muscles that are actually supposed to do 95 percent of all the work to lift an overhead garage door. If you have to struggle to lift your door, then the springs are out of adjustment or possible worn out. You can check your springs fairly easily. If the door is well lubricated and the door is not in a bind within the tracks, it should stay suspended in a halfway open or closed position. If it opens, the springs might be too tight. If the door proceeds to close on its own and slams to the ground, the springs are too loose or worn out.

Do NOT attempt to adjust the springs yourself. It is very dangerous and must only be done by a trained professional.

Cables, Levers, Hinges, Rollers, etc.

Every six months, take a look at the hardware parts that make up the garage door. Look for worn metal, loose connections, etc. If you spot them, call a professional. Every year, homeowners get seriously injured when they fiddle around with garage door hardware. Some crazy homeowners who paint their doors try to remove hardware to paint behind it. More than one homeowner has been KILLED when they removed the bottom bracket that is attached to the cables or springs!

Remember, when a garage door is down in the closed position, the springs are like cocked guns. The springs are loaded with hundreds of pounds of potential energy just waiting to be released. If you unbolt a nut and the spring rips the bracket from your door, it can take your head with it. I have witnessed springs that have failed and shot across a garage like a cannon ball. Don't mess with the hardware. Leave it to a pro!

For further information on garage door safety and maintenance, go to the web site of the International Door Association (www.door.org) and read their article on "Automatic Garage Door Opener and Garage Door Safety & Maintenance Guide."

Periodic Lubrication

You can lubricate your door's moving parts. Always use a lightweight oil to coat the rollers, hinge pins, track, etc. Never use a heavy oil or grease.

Garage Door & Secure Radio Operators

Posted on June 29, 2005 by Tim Carter

Up until a few years ago, garage door design possibilities were very limited. Today, you can select a magnificent fiberglass garage door that looks like it is a beautiful walnut, oak, cherry or poplar door! The wood graining, color, and texture are so real it will definitely impress anyone who drives up to your home.

Changing Trends

Consumers respond to change. People like new things. Manufacturers know this and take advantage of this fact. Smart manufacturers respond to market demands by making high quality, efficient, good looking products that offer value. Garage door manufacturers have refined this principle with the new generation of garage doors.

Energy issues, needs for maintenance free living, safety concerns and durability have all been addressed. The most exciting advance in garage doors at this time has to be the insulated fiberglass garage door. Couple this with a radio controlled opener that randomly changes its code to foil thieves and you have a real asset to enhance your home.

Energy Issues

Do you have a living space above your garage? If so, it possibly is cooler than the rest of the home. New garage doors are available that offer up to an R-value of 9.2. This is a huge advancement over older doors that offered virtually no insulating capability.

However, insulated doors alone can't keep your house or garage comfortable. You need to pay attention to weather-stripping details around the entire edge of the door, the spaces between the door panels and the bottom door seal. Air infiltration will cancel all of the great insulating qualities of even the best door. Certain doors, such as those made by Clopay, actually offer a unique weather-stripping bead between the panels of sectional overhead doors. These gaskets create a very weathertight seal.

A DIY Job?

Are you thinking of replacing your garage door? If so, forget about doing it yourself. This is one job that must be left to the professional. Garage doors are the largest mechanical object in your home. Sixteen foot wide doors can weigh in excess of 350 lbs when assembled! You surely don't want that door and track to come crashing down on top of your new car or yourself, do you?

Steel Doors a Strong #2

Perhaps a fiberglass garage door is not in your budget. Don't despair! Give a serious look to the steel insulated doors. These doors offer all of the same features of the top quality doors. Because of special finishing processes, the finish of the steel doors can last for many years. Special zinc coated steel and rust inhibitive paints allow manufacturers to offer strong warranties.

Hardware Improvements

Garage door hardware has also seen improvements. Plastic has begun to replace certain steel parts. Nylon rollers and suspension systems are becoming more common. These materials offer superior precision that allow doors to operate smoothly and with less noise. If you see this nylon on your new door, don't think that the manufacturer has cut a corner. In fact, they have made it easier for your son or daughter to sneak into the house late at night!

Maintenance Free?

If you purchase a new door, don't think that you are getting out of all future painting and staining duties. This is especially true of the new fiberglass doors. These doors rely on special stains and clear coatings to create that wonderful look of wood. However, every few years this finish requires a rejuvenation.

The paint on steel doors, good as it is, will also succumb to the elements. It is not uncommon that these doors need a fresh coat of paint every 10 years or so.

A squirt of an oil can will also go a long way. If you lubricate all of the moving parts according to the suggestions of the manufacturer, your door might very well last 30 years or more.

Don't be like the average homeowner who neglects things. Inspect your garage door every six months so that you can maximize this big investment. If the door needs work, call a professional. You can save your money doing something else.

With proper care, you may only have to call a professional every 10 years or so. That is a small price to pay to ensure that your door will operate smoothly during a fierce rainstorm, a howling dust storm or a blizzard.

Expert Advice For Your Home