Upgrade Your Residential Construction

Fifty Must-Have Residential Upgrades

Following is just a partial list of upgrades you should consider for your new home, room addition or whole house renovation. There are obviously more to list, but these will allow you to create a first class project. Some upgrades are not expensive, but others can be budget breakers.

1. Plans and Blueprints - Spend the extra money to get ones with interior elevations, multiple details and written specifications. If you would like to see what a real set of blueprints should look like, click here.

2. Foundation - Nine foot 8 inch walls allow you to create full height ceilings in basement spaces. Be sure these walls are 10 inches thick and go with vertical steel every 3 feet if possible. Click here to learn more about foundations.

3. Structural Steel - If you increase your foundation height do the same with I beams. 12 inch high I beams can often span 16 to 20 feet without support poles mid-span!

4. Insect Control - Do not skip this step. Treat the soil beneath slabs before they are poured. Hire a professional pest control company to prevent termites. To read more on termite control, click here.

5. Electric Service - Install a 40 circuit panel. It may seem like overkill, but you will thank me in a few years.

6. Install Empty Conduits - Install multiple conduits from the panel to attics and other remote locations so you can get future wire to every room of the house easily.

7. Drain Piping - Specify no-hub cast iron piping for all drain lines that run across ceilings and down walls. It is quiet. Vent lines and below slab lines can be PVC.

8. Water Lines - Install 1 inch service from the street to the house. Install 3/4 inch pipe to all fixture groups. Never let a 1/2 inch line feed more than one fixture. Use type L copper.

9. Vapor Barriers - Install high performance vapor barriers, not regular poly. This makes a huge difference in crawl spaces, click here to learn more.

10. Attic or Storage Trusses - These low cost options create instant space. Many builders don't know about these!

11. Skylites - Add wherever possible. They distribute invigorating natural light into key rooms. Buy ones with engineered flashings like the Velux brand.

12. Air and Water Infiltration Barriers - These wonderful products are an absolute must. Be sure they are put in right. Click here to learn more about infiltration barriers.

13. Windows - Buy ones that have AAMA, NFRC and/or Energy Star certification. To do otherwise is a huge mistake.

14. HVAC - This is a key area. Each room (except kitchens and bathrooms) needs a return air duct. Buy AC equipment with 12 SEER or better rating. Find the best HVAC person in your area.

15. Water Heater - If gas, get one with the largest burner. It heats faster. Install an expansion tank.

16. Technology Wiring - Install the latest wiring for telephone, computer and cable. Make sure all wires are home runs. Don't loop wire from room to room. To learn more about wiring click here.

17. Central Vacuum - It may seem like a luxury, but wait till you use it. It will soon become a necessity.

18. Fire Sprinklers - They save lives and property. You can get ones that are nearly invisible.

19. Soundproofing - Caulk under bedroom wall plates. Seal all possible air leaks between rooms.

20. Veneer Plaster - This upgrade is not available everywhere. If you can afford it, do it.

21. Fiber Cement Siding - Looks better than vinyl and requires less maintenance than wood siding.

22. Exterior Steel - Paint all steel with rust inhibitive primer and one finish coat on all surfaces and edges before installation.

23. Brick Flashing - Install self-stick asphalt membrane ones. Do NOT compromise on this! Install a mesh mortar net product to keep mortar from blocking weep holes.

24. Back Prime Exterior Wood - Prime the hidden surfaces of all exterior wood before it is installed.

25. Exterior Concrete- Install steel bars in all exterior concrete. A 2 foot on center grid is perfect. All slabs should be a minimum of 5 inches thick.

26. Ceramic Tile - Be sure all wall and floor tile are installed on cement board, NOT green paper faced drywall.

27. Foundation Waterproofing - Hot spray asphalt is dampproofing. Waterproofing, when done right, will keep your basement dry forever.

28. Laundry Chute - If you can plan and install one, you will fall in love with it.

29. Cedar Closet - Install one of these somewhere in the house for your fine woolen garments

30. Synthetic Wood Water Repellents - All exterior deck lumber should be treated with these, not the heavily advertised brands that are food for mildew and algae.

31. Interior Doors - You can still buy solid wood doors. They have all sorts of interesting profiles. Even if you do go with hardboard doors, get solid doors, not hollow ones.

32. Synthetic Stucco-EIFS - If you choose this surface, then it MUST be a system that incorporates water management. Avoid barrier EIFS systems.

33. Rainwater Management - Be sure all roof water is piped away from the house. Use tough SDR-35 PVC sewer pipe, not the flimsy black corrugated pipe.

34. Fireplace Gas Line - Install a natural gas line to the fireplace. This can be used as a log lighter or converted to gas logs in the future.

35. Attic Stair Access - Choose a top of the line rolling staircase, not the flimsy folding staircases.

36. Plumbing Shut Off Valves - Install ball valves in the plumbing system so different zones can be shut down. This allows certain parts of the house to have water while you work on other parts.

37. Indirect Lighting - Install wonderful indirect lighting in kitchens, family rooms, even the master bedroom for an enchanting effect.

38. Ice Dam and Wind Driven Rain Membranes - Install these wonderful products to stop the leaks that happen in periods of freezing weather or tropical storms.

39. High Performance Glass - Buy the best soft coat Low-E glass with Argon that is recommended for your part of the nation. It will save you money in the long run.

40. Metal Roofing - If you can afford it and it is installed right, you will NEVER have a roof problem in your lifetime. Wait till you see how good the new types look.

41. Pocket Doors - These doors are often forgotten. They can save space and are easy to install during construction.

42. Screened Porch - This is a delightful space and can be an extension of a deck.

43. Plywood vs. OSB - Plywood costs a little more but can tolerate water better than OSB.

44. Shower Seat - If you are going to have a ceramic tile shower, a seat is a must!

45. Algae Resistant Shingles -If you want to avoid black algae stains, get shingles that contain copper.

46. Whole House Surge Protector - This device helps to stop damage to electronic equipment. You still need point-of-use ones too!

47. Wide Floor Joists - If you want stiff floors don't follow the code! Code approved systems are often springy. Upsize to the next size joist.

48. Eliminate Beams - Use deep engineered I joists or floor trusses to eliminate basement beams and columns.

49. Landscape Lighting - This luxury will open up your yard for use until late at night.

50. Framing Connectors - These simple devices help hold your house together during tornadoes or hurricanes. They are inexpensive and provide a continuous connection path from the roof down to the foundation. They may provide the extra few seconds of protection while you run for cover into the crawl space or basement.

10 Interesting Locations for a Direct Vent Gas Fireplace

Kitchen

This is a great place for a fireplace, especially one with a raised hearth. I remodeled a kitchen in an exclusive part of Cincinnati 20 years ago. It had a wonderful masonry fireplace in the kitchen. It is a great conversation piece if your kitchen is the country look.

Dining Room

If you have or are building a house with a formal dining room, a fireplace is a perfect fit. All old houses had them so that you would stay warm while you ate. Pay attention to TV shows that depict Victorian or Colonial times. I guarantee you will see a fireplace in a shot of a dining room.

Entrance Hall

If you have a large entrance hall, a fireplace is an excellent way to greet a visitor. The warmth and visual appeal will take the chill off the room when you open the door!

Bathroom

Do you have a whirlpool bathtub? A fireplace on the wall just behind it will really set your bathroom apart from others. You can also place one in a corner of the room. They really keep the bathroom toasty warm.

Bedroom

Many people have put factory fireplaces in bedrooms. They are excellent locations. Be sure to place them on a raised hearth. You want to be able to see the fire while lying on the bed. Many people forget about this and place the unit on the floor.

Three Season Porch or Detached Screened Porch

My family and I stayed at a vacation home in Michigan several years ago. The cabin had a separate detached shelter . A fireplace in this room would enable you to sit out there on a chilly evening and watch the fall or early spring stars. Glass enclosed 3 season rooms are also great places for direct vent fireplaces. The fireplace allows you to make these 4 season rooms unless you live in the harshest of climates.

Attic Romproom

Do you plan to finish an attic space? A fireplace will create the warmth this space needs. Plus, if you get the model from Heat-n-Glo (or others) that has an air conditioner, you will solve your cooling problem at the same time.

Garage

Yes, some people have very nice garages. They work in them in the winter months. An economy direct vent fireplace will produce the heat you need to putter around.

Basement Recreation Room / Wet Bar

If you plan an extensive basement recreation facility, you can install direct vent fireplaces in several locations. You can build the fireplace right into a wet bar. Any other location will also produce the heat to take the chill off the basement space. Getting gas to these locations should be easy.

Study / Family Room / Library

These are three traditional rooms that will easily accommodate a fireplace. A study with a small direct vent fireplace really adds a touch of class to a house! If you have a real library in your house then you must include a fireplace. It is a natural.

Related Articles: Direct Vent Gas Fireplaces, Gas Furnace & Direct Vent Manufacturers

Direct Vent Gas Fireplaces

I remember back when the first factory fireplaces came out about 30 years ago. I thought they would be a fad because they just didn't look too realistic. Well, the fireplace manufactures worked hard and rose to the challenge. Add to that advancements in technology, and you have the new breed of direct vent fireplaces.

Visually Appealing Furnaces

After all, that is what these direct vent fireplaces really are. They are so efficient that you can absolutely heat a major portion of your house with one. If you have a smaller home, you can heat practically the entire space. Why? Some of these direct vent fireplaces can deliver (output) close to 20,000 BTU's per hour. This is a tremendous amount of heat.

The most common complaint with direct vent fireplaces is that they work too well. That is, they create too much heat. This gives you an indication of how much heat really escapes up a traditional fireplace. Some direct vent units capture and deliver up to 70 percent of the fire's heat.

The heat loss for an entire house (depends upon size) can range anywhere from 40,000 to 120,000 BTU's per hour. If you purchase a large, high efficiency direct vent fireplace that pumps out 20,000 BTU's or more per hour into one room, you can see the problem.

Many people like to see the fire's flames dancing and rolling. This usually means you have the fireplace running on high or near the high setting. Herein lies the problem.

Keep these BTU numbers in mind when you buy. To stay comfortable in a room, it may pay to purchase a smaller model or one that is not so efficient.

Installing These Beauties

For the most part, you don't have to be a highly trained technician to install a direct vent fireplace. The only aspect you might have to sub-contract is running the gas line. Many people just don't have the tools to run gas piping. All of the other tasks fall within the capabilities of a serious DIY'r.

The most important aspect is to completely read through the instructions TWICE before you even break out any tools. You need to be sure you follow the precise order of assembly AND that you follow each manufacturer's directions to the letter. Not all installations are the same.

You must pay very close attention to clearances around the exhaust pipe. If the manufacturer says 1 inch clearance, they don't mean 3/4 inch! There is nothing wrong with making the clearance a little more in the interest of safety.

Don't even think of modifying or exceeding the design limitations of the venting components. The proper combustion of the fireplace relies on you following the designs listed and maintaining the maximum distances as required in the instructions.

Be careful about moving the fireplace or vent components during the installation procedure. Many direct vent fireplaces require you to use stove cement and gaskets where the first vent pipe component leaves the fireplace. Common sense should tell you that once installed, you don't want to jeopardize the tightness of this joint. Moving, bumping, knocking vent components during the installation can cause problems. Pay attention to this critical detail.

Minimum Clearances

Pay attention and maintain the minimum clearances between the vent pipes and any wood or paper products. Don't take a chance or think that a 1/4 inch deviation will make a difference. Moving from 1 inch to 3/4 inch towards a piece of wood means you are now 25% closer! That is a huge percentage.

Firestops

As the vent components pass through ceilings, walls, etc., you have to install metal firestops. Note that these often have to be placed on both sides of the wall. These usually nail in place very easily if you have created the correct sized rough opening.

Some firestops will have curved heat shields. These always need to be placed towards the top of a hole in horizontal firestop applications.

Each manufacturer will have different firestop requirements. Pay attention to these details!

Odors

Be sure to check into all spots where something might fall into or alongside the fireplace metal boxing. Why? If a combustible foreign object, piece of plastic, or whatever gets hidden, it can cause a fire or bad odors as the fireplace burns. It can be a nightmare to tear it apart and find the offending source of the odor. This has happened before!

Related Articles: Fabulous Fit Anywhere Fireplaces, Interesting Locations for a Direct Vent Gas Fireplace, Gas Furnace & Direct Vent Manufacturers

Gas Furnace & Direct Vent Manufacturers

Direct Vent Fireplace Manufacturers

I have a 90 year old gorgeous porcelain coated cast iron gas space heater. You can see the burning gas through real mica windows. My gas heater is low on efficiency but high on looks. This look is now again in vogue. Several of the direct vent fireplace manufacturers make replica free standing stoves similar to mine. They are excellent conversation pieces. Be sure to scan the literature for these models in case you have a place to use a free standing stove. I can tell you that the new models are more efficient than mine!

I urge you to call each and every one of the following manufacturers. Ask for them to send you all of their direct vent literature. Sure it will be some work, but it will also yield great results. You might also be able to judge the responsiveness of the companies. Try to call everyone on the same day. This will test your patience! Then keep a log of when you receive the requested literature. The companies that get back the fastest very likely are the most efficient. They might treat future problems with the same or possibly quicker speed. I think you will be fascinated with the different response times to your requests! Be careful of the literature you receive. It WILL be intoxicating! My guess is that you will jump in your car to find the closest dealer. Drive slowly!

Aladdin Hearth Products
800-234-2508

Blaze King Industries
800-456-8818

Fireplace Manufacturing
800-888-2050

Fireplace Xtrordinaire Mfg.
800-654-1177

Heat-N-Glo Fireplace Products
800-669-4328

Heatilator
800-843-2848

Hunter Energy & Technologies
705-325-6111

Kozy Heat Fireplaces
800-253-4904

Majestic Products
800-525-1898

NHC Hearthstone Stoves
800-827-8683

Superior Fireplace Company
800-731-8101

Fireplace Related Associations

Gas Technology Institute
847-768-0500
http://www.gastechnology.org/

Hearth Products Association
703-522-0086
http://www.hpba.org/

Brick Industry Association
703-620-0100
http://www.bia.org/

Related Articles: Fabulous Fit Anywhere Fireplaces, Interesting Locations for a Direct Vent Gas Fireplace, Direct Vent Gas Fireplaces

Natural Gas vs. Firewood Cost Survey

Natural Gas vs. Firewood Cost Survey

The following 1996 survey was compiled by comparing the cost to operate a vented set of fire logs that burned an average of 75,000 BTU's per hour vs. the cost of burning seasoned firewood at the rate of approximately 21 pounds per hour. The firewood cost was based on purchasing a full cord at one time. The gas prices are winter rates. The firewood prices were obtained from leading firewood distributors.

The first set of numbers listed under each city is for natural gas. The second set of numbers is the firewood cost.

City

Gas Log Cost

Firewood Cost

Albuquerque $0.17 - 0.22 $0.95 - 1.22
Atlanta $0.42 - 0.55 $0.95 - 1.20
Baltimore $0.32 - 0.42 $0.99 - 1.27
Birmingham $0.39 - 0.51 $0.67 - 0.86
Boston $0.48 - 0.63 $1.06 - 1.36
Charlotte $0.37 - 0.48 $0.65 - 0.83
Chicago $0.29 - 0.38 $0.47 - 0.58
Cleveland $0.31 - 0.41 $1.04 - 1.33
Columbus $0.35 - 0.45 $0.90 - 1.15
Dallas $0.39 - 0.51 $0.78 - 0.99
Denver $0.43 - 0.69 $1.19 - 1.52
El Paso $0.13 - 0.17 $1.12 - 1.43
Houston $0.26 - 0.34 $1.08 - 1.38
Indianapolis $0.28 - 0.37 $0.76 - 0.97
Kansas City $0.22 - 0.29 $0.67 - 0.85
Las Vegas $0.35 - 0.46 $1.58 - 2.02
Lexington $0.37 - 0.49 $0.73 - 0.96
Los Angeles $0.66 - 0.89 $1.02 - 1.61
Miami $0.37 - 0.45 $1.12 - 1.46
Minneapolis $0.28 - 0.37 $1.04 - 1.33
Nashville $0.42 - 0.55 $0.79 - 0.98
New Orleans $0.27 - 0.35 $1.08 - 1.38
New York City $0.46 - 0.60 $1.03 - 1.31
Philadelphia $0.32 - 0.42 $0.86 - 1.10
Phoenix $0.32 - 0.42 $1.82 - 2.32
Pittsburgh $0.29 - 0.38 $1.15 - 1.47
Raleigh $0.39 - 0.51 $0.79 - 1.00
St. Louis $0.27 - 0.36 $0.68 - 0.87
Salt Lake City $0.63 - 0.71 $1.12 - 1.43
San Antonio $0.28 - 0.37 $1.08 - 1.38
San Francisco $0.36 - 0.47 $1.62 - 2.07
Seattle $0.35 - 0.50 $0.71 - 0.92
Tulsa $0.32 - 0.42 $0.47 - 0.60
Washington, D.C. $0.57 - 0.74 $1.08 - 1.38

Fireplace Installation

Gas Fireplace Logs Installation Tips

The first thing you need to do is read the instructions. Once you have completed that, take a close look at the fittings. You should notice some brass fittings called flare fittings. If you are not familiar with flare fitting for gas connections, ask the help of a professional. Flare fittings are quite easy, however, it helps to have a pro tell or show you just how to tighten them.

Pay attention to the clearances to combustible items as outlined in the instructions. Vent free logs produce massive amounts of heat! You may ignite something inadvertently!

If you are purchasing a set of vent free logs, you must proceed very slowly. The installation and connection of the burner is critical. The burner is finely tuned and must be positioned correctly to burn just right. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter.

Be sure to install the logs in the fireplace before trying to connect the gas to them. This will tell you the proper placement of the burner or burner pan. Many a gas log has been installed too far forward or too deep into the fireplace because of this oversight. Don't let it happen to you!

Vented logs require just a touch of artistry. Once the burner pan is connected, you must install the sand, then the burnt embers around the edges of the fire floor. Over the sand, install the vermiculite and rock wool. These components are the things that glow. They need to be directly over the sand and burner so that the gas passes through them.

Turn the gas on low for the first time. Within a few seconds, you should have a flame. Turn the gas up slowly to the desired height, sit back and enjoy your fire!

Manufacturers of Gas Fireplace Logs

Gas Fireplace Manufacturers

A few make gas logs of exceptional quality and realism. Believe me, you will rapidly see the distinction when you start to shop. Check out the web sites of these organizations before you go. Good luck!

  • Fireplace Manufacturers Incorporated
    800-888-2050

  • Fuego - Flame Fireplaces
    800-445-1867
  • Hargrove Hearth Products
    918-241-4166
  • Heat-N-Glo Fireplace Products
    800-669-4328
  • Heatmaster Gas Logs
    919-639-4568
  • Robert H. Peterson Co.
    800-332-3973
  • Portland Willamette
    503-288-7511
  • Rasmussen Iron Works
    562-696-8718
  • Readybuilt Products
    800-626-2901

Associations

  • American Gas Association
    http://www.aga.org/

  • Gas Appliance Manufacturers Association
    http://www.gamanet.org/
  • Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association
    http://www.hpba.org/

Gas Fireplace & Ventless Gas Fireplace Choices

Realism

If you are familiar with the gas logs of 20 to 25 years ago, don't quit reading just yet. Those older logs were very fake. The flames were not realistic and the logs themselves just didn't look right.

Today, there is a good chance that if you saw a high quality set of gas logs actually burning, you would very likely think they are real. The logs are extremely realistic. Several manufacturers even offer different wood species! Certain types of gas logs (vented) come with vermiculite and glass wool. When the gas flames lick around these items, they look exactly like glowing embers in a real wood fire. The display is dramatic. In fact, just eight days ago, I installed another set for a friend. We turned the logs on for the first time and my friend was absolutely amazed. You will be too!

The Two Types

Years ago, there was only one type of gas log, that being the vented type. These are still made today. However, energy conservation trends produced gas appliances that are vent free. This technology found its way into the U.S. gas log market not too long ago. The technology actually started in Europe many years ago.

The vented logs are those that require a working chimney. They produce vast amounts of heat (some up to 90,000 BTU's per hour.) But, since you must open the fireplace damper as if burning a wood fire, most of this heat escapes up the chimney (85 to 90 percent!)

Vented gas logs also produce massive amounts of carbon monoxide, a deadly, toxic gas. This carbon monoxide results from the low tech burner that is used to combust the gas. In most cases, the gas simply escapes from a simple pipe that has holes drilled into it. This pipe is usually covered with silica sand. The gas filters through the sand so that the entire area under the gas log set appears to be on fire.

Vent free gas logs are entirely different. They have specially designed burners that are not covered with anything. They are hidden underneath and behind the logs. These burners are adjusted so that enough air is supplied to the burner to combust the natural gas with top efficiency. This combustion process produces a minimum of carbon monoxide.

Furthermore, as an additional safety measure, to protect against the buildup of carbon monoxide in a confined space, vent free logs approved by the American Gas Association (AGA) are equipped with oxygen depletion sensors (ODS). These sensors can tell how much oxygen is left in the air near the bottom of your floor. As carbon monoxide starts to build up, it dilutes/depletes the amount of oxygen in the room(s) / confined space. This, in turn, activates the sensor and the gas shuts off to the logs. All of this happens long before you would feel the effects of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Because you cannot cover the burners of vent free logs with anything, you cannot experience the burning ember effect with these products. These logs are not as realistic as the vented gas logs.

Moisture Problem Potential

The burning of natural gas produces large quantities of water (1.5 gallons for every 100,00 BTU's of gas burned.) If you live in an area that heats with natural gas, just go outside on a cold winter's day and look at everyone's chimney. Do you see that white vapor or steam issuing out from all the chimneys? That is the water vapor that is produced inside of everyone's furnace or hot water heater.

This same thing happens when you ignite your gas log set. If you have a vented set, this vapor travels up the chimney just like that of your furnace or hot water heater. In certain instances (when the gas logs are burning on low), you may have a slight problem. If your chimney is extremely cold, this water vapor might condense and run back down your chimney. When the logs are burning with more intensity, this is usually not a problem, as the flue gets nice and warm.

Vent free logs, on the other hand, can sometimes create massive problems with regard to this moisture. Since the logs do not vent to the outside, all of this moisture is trapped inside your house. Condensation can develop on cold surfaces. If this happens in an area you cannot see (attic, inside exterior walls, etc.), you may begin to experience problems. However, some people who heat with radiators may desire and need this extra humidity in their homes. You will have to judge for yourself.

Safety Issues

If you are not proficient at working with natural gas, by all means have a professional install your gas logs. Also, if you purchase a vented set of gas logs, have your existing chimney cleaned by a professional chimney sweep. The heat and moisture from the gas logs can cause major staining problems with the soot and creosote buildup in wood burning chimneys.

If you purchase a vented set of logs, be sure to fix your fireplace damper in the open position with a clamp. If you fail to do this, carbon monoxide cannot escape out the chimney! With wood fires, you know quickly that a damper is closed because of smoke buildup. This will NOT happen with your gas logs!

Give serious consideration to purchasing a carbon monoxide detector no matter which type of gas log you buy. It's better to be safe than sorry.

Home Inspectors & Buying New Homes

Do you remember the last time you purchased a new car? There is some magical spell that is cast upon you when you cross the threshold of the car dealership. I call it New Car Fever. I believe it has something to do with the unmistakable aroma of new car upholstery, bright chrome, and fenders with no dents.

The same sort of feeling happens when you start looking for a new home. You have a tendency to overlook flaws. This happens - I believe - because certain brain reasoning/judgment chemicals are blocked by the stronger dream chemicals.


Purchase my Easy-to-Use Home Inspection Checklist Now. This Simple-To-Use Tool allows you to spot many defects before you have to hire a real inspector. You can then eliminate a house and move on to one with fewer defects.

You have nothing to lose. If my checklist doesn't work for you, I'll give you your money back. Oh, one more thing, it's an Instant Download! You can have the checklist in your hands just minutes from now!


You Need Help...

When buying a new or existing home, you need some help. The best help comes from a person who has no emotional attachment to the buying transaction whatsoever. A friend or family member is not always the best choice. They may share in your excitement and possibly overlook obvious flaws in the house or lot. Mistakes like this can be costly.

I believe the best person to be your guide through the house evaluation process is a seasoned home inspector. This person checks the health of the house and issues you a concise written report.

Expectations

Is it reasonable for an inspector to find every flaw in a house? Not really. Very few people have x-ray vision like the comic book hero Superman. It is unrealistic for you to expect such performance from a home inspector.

Seasoned inspectors can detect problems from very small clues. They may see a small deposit of efflorescence on a basement wall that you didn't even see. This powdery deposit is a sure sign of water infiltration or leakage. An inspector may note that you are buying a house at the bottom of a hill or in a valley. This may present a problem during periods of heavy rain.

Some inspection companies offer different types of inspections. One is more detailed and thorough than the other. If you are making a major investment, a detailed inspection may be worth its weight in gold at a later date.

Realtor Referrals

I happen to be a licensed real estate broker. I have had my broker's license for nearly 15 years. Home inspectors can be deal killers. In other words, a salesperson or a broker works his/her tail off to sell a house. The inspector comes along and finds numerous faults. The buyers back out of the deal and start the process all over. Each additional hour the Realtor spends dilutes the earned commission. Can you see where I am headed with this one? A dishonest or hungry Realtor may want you to use an easy inspector. I know this for a fact as it has been discussed in my continuing education classes! You can ask for names of home inspectors from your Realtor, but I would personally choose one that is certified by an association that requires rigorous testing and re-certification.

Pre-Inspections

Hiring a home inspector to look at each house you are interested in can get expensive. If you have never purchased a house before, you are at the greatest risk of making a mistake. The checklist I have developed should allow you to notice defects that can cost you significant dollars to repair or replace. Use the checklist as a report card for each house you look at. You will soon see that there is no such thing as a perfect house, but ones that can come close.

Never the First One

Don't ever make an offer on the first house you look at. It can be deadly. You need to look at 4 or 5 houses at a minimum - if possible - to get a feel of what is on the market in your area. You will be shocked at the difference in houses and the care taken to maintain them. Pay attention to details when possible. Look at storage opportunities. Pay attention to compass orientation. In other words, which way does the sun shine into what windows? It may be important if you are a gardener.

Overall Condition

When you walk through a house for the first time, go slowly. Look at the walls, ceiling, floors and fixtures. Judge the overall condition. Write down your thoughts on a pad of paper as you go. You may look strange, but these notes will prove invaluable if and when you sit down to make an offer on the house. If there are lots of minor defects, you can incorporate a fix-it list into your offer or deduct monies from your purchase offering price to cover the repairs.

The Inspection Contingency

The language in your offer to purchase regarding your professional home inspection is critical. You need to make sure that you can get out of the contract AND get all of your earnest money back if there is a big problem!

EXTRA NEWS from Tim Carter:
Purchase my Easy-to-Use Home Inspection Checklist Now. This Simple-To-Use Tool allows you to spot many defects before you have to hire a real inspector. You can then eliminate a house and move on to one with fewer defects.

You have nothing to lose. If my checklist doesn't work for you, I'll give you your money back. Oh, one more thing, it's an Instant Download! You can have the checklist in your hands just minutes from now!

Related Articles:  The Existing Home InspectionHome Inspection ChecklistHome Inspector Certification Associations

Home Inspection Checklist

Home Inspection Checklist

The following checklist in NOT intended to replace a full blown inspection by a professional home inspector. Those inspections are detailed (or should be!) and seasoned inspectors can spot evidence of problems that you might otherwise overlook.

The purpose of this Incomplete and Free checklist below is to give you a very rough idea if the house is even worth considering. I've created some quick things you should look at that might completely nix the deal if I was considering buying the house.

If you want to walk around and through the house with a high-powered checklist that will help you identify many of the defects in the house BEFORE you make an offer, then I recommend you consider buying my Whole House Inspection Checklist. It's Instant Download and it comes with a money-back guarantee. It could save you Tens of Thousands of Dollars. You CAN'T afford to make a mistake in a deal as big as buying a house.

Take your time and write down the answers to your questions. Once the homeowner or Realtor sees you writing down answers, they will give you crisp responses to your questions!

Exterior:

1. Driveway Condition: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

2. Sidewalk and Patio: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

3. Topography: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

4. Exterior Drainage - CRITICAL! (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

5. Trees / Landscaping: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

6. Fencing: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __ None __

7. Detached garage / shed: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

8. Swimming Pool: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

9. Gutters / Downspouts: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

10. Siding Condition: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

Basement / Crawlspace:

11. Wall Cracks / Defects: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

12. Evidence of Seepage - (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

13. Crawlspace Vapor Barrier: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

14: Floor Slab: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

15: Staircase / Handrail: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

16: Lighting: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

Furnace / Air Conditioning:

17. Equipment Cleanliness: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

18. Vent Pipe Condition: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

19. Furnace Filter - ASK to see! (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

20. Air Conditioner Unit Paint: Looks New ___ Looks Old __

Plumbing System:

21. Water Heater Age -(Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

22. Faucets Dripping: Yes __ No __

23. Noisy Drain Pipes when Toilets Flushed: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

24. Visible Corrosion on Pipes: Yes __ No __

25. Sinks and Tub Drainage: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

Electrical System:

26. Main Service Cable: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

27. Extra circuit breaker space: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

28. GFCI outlets at wet/sink locations: Yes ___ No ___

29. Outdoor outlets: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

30. Adequate room receptacles: Yes ___ No ___

Kitchen:

31. Cabinets / Tops: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

32. Appliances: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

33. Flooring: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

Baths:

34. Fixtures: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

35. Flooring: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

Windows:

36. Do windows operate? Yes ___ No ___

37. Insulated glass - Windows fogged? Yes ___ No ___

38. Drapes / Shades: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

Doors:

39. Operation : Smooth __ Rub against Frame ___

40. Lock Operation: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

Fireplace:

41. Overall appearance: Very Good __ Fair __ Poor __

42. Damper operation: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

Roof:

43. Appearance: Looks Worn ___ Looks New ___

44. Metal Flashings: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

Attic:

45. Minimum 14 - 18 inches Insulation: Yes __ No __

46. Visible mildew or damaged wood: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

47. Visible soffit and ridge ventilation: Yes __ No __

48. Visible water leaks: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

49: Functioning Storage Space: Yes __ No __

50. Access: (Click here to get the Enhanced Checklist!)

EXTRA NEWS from Tim Carter:
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