Hot Water Heater Tips

Posted on by Tim Carter

Performance Levels

Are you dissatisfied with the performance of your heater? Does it run out of water too soon? Does it take too long to heat up again? Did you know that the SAME gallon capacity heater can heat water at different rates? This is a well-kept secret many people are unaware of.

The burner at the base of the heater comes in different sizes. The bigger the burner, the faster it can heat water. Often the burner size is related to the warranty. I believe this is a decision the stocking distributor makes. In other words, here in Cincinnati, if you want the powerful large burner, you have to buy a heater with a 10 year warranty. It is worth it! Be sure to investigate this when you purchase your next water heater.

What is the Right Size?

Choosing the correct sized hot water heater depends upon the fuel source. Gas (natural or LP/propane) produces hot water faster than electricity. If your family has five or more people and you use lots of hot water, you should have a 75 gallon gas hot water heater. If you want the ultimate in performance and can afford it, get a commercial hot water heater. These have very large burners and can really heat water quickly. A family with three or four members can usually get by with a 50 gallon heater.

Remember, you can extract more hot water from your tank if you raise the temperature setting. Because you temper the hot water with cold water to make 'lukewarm' water, you will use less volume of hot water from your heater when you wash dishes and take a shower. This means that the 50 gallons of heated water will go a lot farther. DANGER! Be aware that doing this creates a burn hazard. If you raise the temperature too high in the heater (anything over 125 F) you can cause a child, an elderly friend or yourself to get burned!

If you use electric to heat your water, a high demand family of five or more will require a 120 gallon heater. The average family can get by with an 80 gallon tank.

Insulating Heater Tanks

You can purchase hot water heater covers to help insulate the tanks. Don't install one of these unless you are certain the manufacturer permits it. There is always the possibility that adding a kit like this could void the warranty.

Burping & Bubbling

Does your heater groan, bubble, burp, etc. as it heats water? If so, this is a sign of sediment buildup at the base of the tank. The sediment is expanding and popping as it heats. Sediment is bad because it creates a barrier for the burner heat to pass through on its way to the water. Drain one gallon of water from the heater each month.

Shut Off & Temperature/Pressure Valves

If you install a new heater on your own, DO NOT install a shut off valve on the hot water outlet water line. Only install a valve on the cold water side. If a valve is on both lines, and some idiot turns them off while the heater is on, AND the Temperature / Pressure valve fails......BOOM! It has happened before, I have seen a heater go from a basement through two floors and a roof and end up 150 feet away. NEVER re-use a Temperature / Pressure valve from your old water heater. Always buy a new one.

Chimney Liners & Stainless Steel Alloys

Posted on by Tim Carter

How many older homes do you think are standing in the U.S. that have unlined brick chimneys or have a single flue that currently services two or more fuel burning appliances? Five, 10, 20 million? I don't know the answer, but I would say it is very close to 20 million. One thing is for sure, there are millions of houses that currently have lower efficiency gas furnaces that vent into a chimney. These furnaces will probably be replaced within the next 10 to 15 years with high efficiency units that do not vent into a chimney. If your house is one of these, you will need to deal with an older masonry chimney that very likely will be too large for the orphaned appliances in your house.

Stainless Steel Alloys

This is where the stainless steel alloy chimney liners come in. These products allow you to create ideal drafting conditions using an oversized masonry chimney. A flexible metal pipe is snaked into the chimney extending from the top of the chimney to the thimble area where the vent pipe attaches to the chimney. As you might expect they come in various sizes and materials.

One might think that the ideal material for these liners would be high grade 304 stainless steel. Well, the flexible pipe manufacturers tried this and the chlorides in the exhaust vapor of natural gas caused corrosion. So, look for stainless steel alloy liners that carry this labeling: AL 29 - 4C. This is your assurance that you are getting a top quality metal flue liner.

Pipe Companies

Also pay attention to the warranties offered by the different pipe companies. They are not the same! It is also a great idea to ask for installation literature. You should always read this literature, even if you don't plan to install the pipe yourself. Knowing how to install the pipe allows you to ask pointed questions of the contractors you interview. If the contractor can't answer the questions, you know you have a rookie! Don't try to install these pipes if you have the slightest fear of working on roofs. It is dangerous work!

The companies listed below are wholesale distributors. All of them make flexible pipe but some make rigid pipe as well. Be sure to pay attention to sizing! Don't get a liner that is too small or too big.

  • Copperfield Chimney Supply
  • Bernard Dalsin Company
  • Sand Hill Wholesale

Author's Note: We've received other questions about the similar problems. Here's one from Roger Beauman of New Athens, IL:

"I have an old 2 1/2 story frame home build 1896. I recently replaced the furnace with a high efficiency unit. I have a gas water heater now the sole use of the chimney. During the summer, I get high levels of CO - carbon monoxide in the house if the temp is sustained at 98 or above. No issues at night, just in the heat of the day. We currently keep several CO - carbon monoxide detectors going and turn the water heater off during the day when we see elevated CO - carbon monoxide levels. Is there a fix for this?"

Fireplace Design & Installation

Posted on by Tim Carter

One of the most aggravating things in a home is a smoking fireplace. Smoke billows into the air, the smoke detector is blaring and you may have a window or door open that is chilling the room. I think I would rather get poked in the eye with a sharp stick than have a smoking fireplace!

Fireplace Design Relationships

The process of exhausting smoke and toxic gases from a fire is a complex process. Out in the open, a fire burns in any fashion it desires. The smoke rises and reacts to wind changes. In your house things are quite different. You burn the fire in a controlled space. The smoke is supposed to go up. The maximum amount of heat is supposed to radiate back into the room. These things are possible so long as you understand fireplace design relationships.

The combustion process of a fire is complex. The flames of a fire go willy nilly. Smoke rolls around in the firebox. Add to that the battle of the hot air and smoke trying to get up the chimney while the cold outside air wants to fall down the chimney. If everything isn't just right, you will get smoke in your house.

Smoke-Free Fireplaces

Smoke-free fireplaces must conform to specific firebox height, width and depth, flue size and chimney height requirements. Make a mistake in any one of these areas and you can be in a smoke-filled room!

The first element of fireplace design lies in sizing the fireplace for a room. You wouldn't put a small three foot wide fireplace in an auditorium. It simply couldn't keep the room warm. A room with a square footage of say 150 square feet can be heated with a fireplace with a 24 to 30 inch width. A large room (15 feet x 28 feet) may require a fireplace with a 4 foot or larger opening.

The point is this. You must first determine the width of your fireplace opening. Once you have this width, all other dimensions can be computed.

Low Chimneys

About six weeks ago, I was hired by some people for a consultation. They had a new home with a number of problems. One of the problems involved a prefabricated fireplace that smoked. Prefabricated fireplaces are almost always designed properly. The height, width and depth of the firebox are correct. The smoke chamber and throat of the firebox are also in proportion. The only possibility for mistake lies in the flue size and chimney height.

In this case, the fireplace was located in a first floor family room. The family room was adjacent to the two story house. The chimney was due southeast of the main part of the house. Our prevailing winds here in Cincinnati are from the northwest during the winter months.

I determined that this fireplace smoked because of a chimney that was too low. The winter winds blow over the two story portion of the house and dive down toward the family room roof. On any given day, there was enough wind pressure to offset the hot air and smoke which was trying to get out of the chimney. Yes, hot air rises, but it only has so much energy.

In this case, the chimney needed to be extended to offset the diving winds.

Chimneys that are not influenced by tall surrounding structures actually benefit from wind. The wind actually creates a partial vacuum as it blows across the top of the chimney. This vacuum helps lift the smoke and gases from the firebox.

Sound Construction

If you are building a new fireplace, you need to pay particular attention to the building code and the types of materials you are using. Fireplaces are very dangerous. Houses burn down every year from defective fireplaces or chimneys. If you don't know what you are doing, you had better consult your building inspector or an experienced, qualified mason.

There are many excellent publications that go into great detail concerning fireplace construction. I could write thousands of words about proper fireplace and chimney construction. However, there is no need to reinvent the wheel. You or your bricklayer simply need to search the existing literature citations.

Fixing an Existing Problem

I know, I know, you're wondering what to do about your existing smoking fireplace. Well, the answer may not be simple. The first place to start is to make a drawing of your fireplace. Add dimensions to your drawing. Compare your drawing to the sizes given in the table shown in Fireplace Design & Dimensions column.

If your firebox dimensions and shape are OK, then maybe the problem lies in your flue size or chimney height. The easiest thing to fix is the height of your chimney. Although often expensive, it is the easiest. If you discover that your firebox, smoke chamber and/or flue size are incorrect, there is no simple solution. The only way to solve the problem may be to start over. Ouch!

Are you building a new home? If so, you must study the following table and read the literature sources I have cited. This small investment in time will allow you peace of mind and a smoke-free home.

By the way, if you have gas available, absolutely pipe a gas supply to that new fireplace. The day may come when you dislike messing with wood. The gas line with a gas valve in place will allow you the flexibility to install gas logs at some future time. In the meantime, the gas line can be connected to a nifty gas lighter kit! No more kindling wood!

Combustion and Makeup Air

Sometimes fireplaces smoke because of another problem. They are suffocating! What do I mean by that, you ask? A roaring fire consumes massive amounts of air. If you have a new air tight house, where does this air come from? Believe it or not, the fireplace may suck the required air straight down the chimney!

Model building codes have required combustion air sources on all residential fireplaces. However, if you forget to open it or it is partially closed, the fireplace may not get enough air. Old houses are susceptible as well. In our pursuit of energy conservation, we purchase new windows and doors, caulk cracks, etc. These were the places the fireplace was getting its air supply. Check to make sure your fireplace combustion air inlet is open. If you don't have one, think about installing a source of air to offset what is going up the chimney.

Chimney Construction Resources

Posted on by Tim Carter

Chimney Construction Literature

The Brick Industry Association (http://www.bia.org) has published some wonderful technical information concerning the construction, design and maintenance of chimneys. I recommend that you go to the Technical Notes section of their web site and read the following articles:

  • Technical Notes on Brick Construction 19A
    Residential Fireplaces Details and Construction

  • Technical Notes on Brick Construction 19B
    Residential Chimneys Design and Construction

Cement Stable Chimney Caulks

Believe it or not, there is a huge difference between silicone caulks. The word silicone, when used with caulk covers a broad range of different ingredients. Some of these ingredients actually begin to break down in the presence of alkaline substances. Guess what concrete and brick mortar have in high abundance? You're right! Alkalines!

Well, there are silicone caulks that are not harmed by alkaline substances. These are the silicone caulks that contain a high amount of silanes. Silanes are a member of the silicone family. As you might imagine, you will never see the word silane on the side of a caulk tube. So how do you know? Well, the silane silicone caulks usually are the ones with the longest and best warranty.That is one way to shop for them.

Also, quite a few manufacturers actually identify their cement stable silicone caulks as concrete caulk or mortar patch caulk. The major brand name manufacturers almost all have a line of these masonry repair caulks and clearly label them for this purpose.

Filling Large, Deep Voids

The space around a chimney crown might be very deep. One could use three, four or maybe five tubes of very expensive caulk. The professionals, who caulk cracks like this, use a caulk backing material. This is simply a foam product which fills the void to within 3/4 inch of the surface. The remaining gap is then filled with the caulking material.

The following manufacturers make cement stable silicone caulks. Look for their products at your local home center.

  • DAP
  • Dow Corning
  • Franklin International Titebond
  • GE Silicones

Are you one of the manufacturers listed above? Do you want your company name to be a link to your website? Click here.

Repairing an Existing Damaged Crown

OK, after reading this bulletin you decide to get up and look at your chimney crown. After the inspection you determine that it needs some attention. Yes, I know there is no overhang with a drip kerf. Also, the bricklayer went and poured the cap right against the flue liner. What a goofus! Should you get the sledge hammer out and start over? Maybe not.

I am aware of a repair method that may allow you to install a waterproof system right over the top of your existing chimney crown. It is ChimneySaver's CrownSeal.

Evidently, this system is installed by chimney sweeps and chimney repair specialists all across the nation. It is not a DIY project. The system works by applying a special waterproof flashing material directly on top of your existing crown. A flexible expansion material is placed beneath this flashing against the edge of the flue liner. A special waterproof coating is then applied on top of the flashing to finish off the job. The completed repair looks just about the same as your crown before the repair was started.

Would you like names of individuals close to your home who can install it? If so, go to the ChimneySaver web site and type in your zip code!

Chimney Cap & Crown

Posted on by Tim Carter
chimney crown chimney pots

These Victorian flue chimney pots were made in 1986, not 1886! Yes, you can purchase new chimney pots that look old. CLICK or TAP HERE to discover where I bought both of these pots.

Victorian Chimney Pots are Available

Why Do Chimney Brick Deteriorate Faster Than House Brick?

If you own an older brick home, you may have noticed that the chimney brick seems to be in worse shape than any of the brick below the roofline. There is a reason for this. Chimneys receive virtually no cover. They're totally exposed to the weather. With each and every rainfall, chimneys get wet. However, depending upon the amount of overhang your roof has, the bricks on your house rarely get wet.

If you happen to live in a part of the US that experiences freezing weather, you get the extra added bonus of freeze damage. When water freezes it expands approximately 9 percent in volume. Thus, if your chimney is saturated with cold rain and the temperature drops well below freezing: SNAP, CRACKLE, and POP. Freeze/thaw damage can pulverize a chimney. I have seen this damage on hundreds of chimneys.

How Many Chimneys in the USA Have Been Built Correctly?

Based upon my experience, I would estimate that less than 1 percent of the chimney crowns built here in the USA are done properly. There are many reasons for this. Bricklayers simply haven't been taught how to do it right. They simply install crowns the way the bricklayer before them did it.

What is the Worst Chimney Crown Material?

One of the biggest mistakes I see on a regular basis is the use of regular brick mortar as the crown material. This is a no-no.

Regular brick mortar does not have the strength and durability characteristics of a pure Portland cement concrete mix. In other words, the concrete people who install your sidewalks and driveways do not use mortar mix. They use concrete. Concrete is made using cement, sand, stones, and water. The stones add fantastic strength characteristics to the mix. Mortar mix usually doesn't have as high a strength as pure cement.

Should an Expansion Joint be Placed around the Flue Liner?

Also, I rarely see bricklayers leave an expansion space between the crown material and the flue liners. This mistake is responsible for the wide majority of cracks you might see in chimney crowns. The cracks are caused by the expansion of the flue liner when it gets hot from either your furnace, hot water heater, or fireplace exhaust. The flue expands, pushes against the crown and it pops, usually at one of the corners.

A properly constructed crown will have this gap between the flue liner and the crown caulked with a cement stable flexible sealant.

Are Metal Chimney Hoods a Good Idea?

Some people choose to install metal hoods over the entire chimney to minimize weather damage. My neighbor has such a device. These caps help to stop some water infiltration into a chimney, but they don't stop driving, wind-blown rains. Also, you need to be sure that the cap or hood does not interfere with the flow of the gases out of your chimney. If you set the top of the cap too close to the flue liner, you could cause some problems.

What are the Best Liquid Sealers for Chimneys?

Guess what? This subject is covered in Builder Bulletin #95. It accompanies a column concerning the application of clear coatings (sealants - slang) on brick.

This column was featured in the March 5, 2013 AsktheBuilder Newsletter.

Acoustical Ceiling Tile Properties

Posted on by Tim Carter

Acoustical Ceiling Tile - Sound Properties

My inlaws have a finished basement that is nearly 35 years old. When I first started to date my wife, we would go down there to play pool on the wonderful billiard table. The room had a cool fireplace, wet bar, and was a great spot to watch television. The room had a typical 12 x 12 acoustical tile ceiling. You know, the one with the different sized holes in it. I think there were only 2 or 3 styles to choose from at that time.

Well, I was not the first person to make additional holes in the ceiling with a cue stick. The ceiling was peppered with holes that had a bluish cast from the cue chalk. Heck, we thought those extra holes helped to deaden the sound. Trouble is, my inlaws didn't agree!

More Choices / Styles

Fissured tiles, ones that imitate corduroy fabric, imitation slate, stucco, pebbled, swirls, etc. are all available. Different edge treatments are also options should you want to dress up a suspended grid ceiling. You can even create an almost seamless ceiling by using 12 inch square interlocking tiles of certain patterns. The look is dramatic.

Instant Ceilings

Acoustical tile ceilings can transform a room in a short period of time. If the installation is easy, you possibly can have a new ceiling in as little as one day. Suspended grid ceilings offer access to hidden utilities. This is very important if you intend to finish the basement of your house. Invariably, some plumbing pipe or wire will have to be run at a later date. This would cause problems with a solid ceiling like plaster or drywall. Interlocking acoustic tiles can cause problems as well regarding future access to utilities.

Maintenance of Tiles

If you are purchasing a new acoustical tile ceiling, be sure to ask about cleaning. Some tiles are washable while others are not. Keep this in mind. Don't use the paint fall back position. Why? Paint can and will alter the acoustic properties of ceiling tile. Some ceiling tiles are tough, if not impossible to paint. Be sure to consider all of your options before making your purchase.

Gluing Acoustical Tiles

If you decide to use interlocking acoustical tiles, they can often be glued to a sound existing ceiling. This is not a bad option. However, remember that once the adhesive is applied to the old ceiling, it will be tough to restore the old surface. I have removed glued on ceilings in the past. The adhesive dries like rock and is difficult, if not impossible, to remove from the old plaster.

Installation - Not for the Rookie

Acoustical ceiling installations are not for beginners in my opinion. They require accurate planning and layout. There is little room for mistake. Installing suspended ceiling grid is not as easy as those DIY'r TV shows make it out to be. You need to proceed slowly and methodically. Keeping the gridwork level is a challenge. I have seen ceilings hung by rookies that look like a roly poly golf green. Humps and dips in the ceiling are real possibilities. You need to closely follow instructions for a first class job.

Grain Patterns

Certain acoustical tile styles have grain patterns. This means that all the tiles must point in the same direction when installed. Arrows are printed on the back of the tiles to aid in this process. Be sure to ask if the tile you are purchasing has this grain.

Future Changeouts

Suspended ceiling systems offer a neat feature. In the event you grow tired of your existing ceiling panel, you can simply purchase new tiles! You take out the old panels and install the new ceiling. I have seen rooms that get a fresh look within 1 hour's time. This, in my opinion, is a very good reason for leaning towards a suspended grid system in lieu of an interlocking tile which is either stapled or glued in place. Remember, keep your options open!

Sound Deadening Properties of Acoustic Tiles

Acoustic ceiling tile has a wide range of noise reduction capabilities. Not all tiles perform as well as others. In fact, some tiles that you may purchase have absolutely no noise control properties whatsoever. You must do some research and ask questions before you purchase a particular tile.

NRC - Noise Reduction Coefficient

This number is a measurement of how much noise or sound is absorbed when the sound waves strike the face of the ceiling panel. You can purchase certain tiles that will give you up to 80 percent (.80) absorption rates. Many tiles fall in the 50 to 60 percent range. This NRC data is readily available when you purchase the tiles. If not, you are shopping at the wrong store!

CAC - Ceiling Attenuation Class

This is an additional sound measurement rating. It tells you how well the acoustical tile resists the passage of sound through the tile. Some of the highest quality tiles will give you a rating in the 40 - 44 range. Other tiles will rate in the 30's

Both the NRC and CAC ratings are usually printed in product brochures. If you are trying to control sound or noise in a family room or other space, take the extra few minutes and search for this most valuable data. Be sure that the tile you purchase has a pattern and item number that matches that given in the product literature.

Remember, there are ceiling materials that look like acoustic tile but in actuality offer no sound deadening properties whatsoever.

 

Acoustical Ceiling Tile Manufacturers

Posted on by Tim Carter

Acoustical Ceiling
Tile Manufacturers

  • Armstrong World Industries
    800-233-3823

  • Barrisol Stretch Ceilings
    216-662-8864
  • BPCO
    800-567-BPCO
  • Illbruck
    800-662-0032

  • International Cellulose Corporation
    713-433-6701

  • Prudential Building Materials
    617-329-3232
  • Shanker Industries
    516-766-4477
  • USG Corporation
    800-USG-4-YOU

Ceiling Grid Options

Want to see a wide variety of ceiling grid options? If so, contact this company. You will be amazed at what is available!

  • Chicago Metallic
    410-796-8220

Acoustical Ceiling Tile Tips

Posted on by Tim Carter

Layout / Planning the Job

Your finished acoustical ceiling look will live or die at this stage of the game. A poor layout will result in uneven or small border tiles. Both situations are to be avoided at all costs. The use of simple graph paper will allow you to create the ceiling layout on paper before you goof it up in the air. Use readily available 1/4 inch graph paper to make a scale layout of your ceiling. You will be able to see how the borders will appear. The goal is to create borders which are as wide as possible. 

Center Lines

The center lines of the ceiling for both width and length may not be the best place for the edges of tile. By placing the center of a row of tiles on the center line, you may produce the widest border along the edge. Use your graph paper and create two possibilities for your ceiling size. See which one produces the widest borders.

Out of Square Ceilings

Is your ceiling out of square? To create the best looking ceiling, you must split the difference of the mistake. How? Well let's say the ceiling is 12 feet wide at one end and 12 feet 2 inches at the other end. On the 12 foot wall make a mark at 6 feet, the exact center of that wall. On the other wall, make a mark at 6 feet 1 inch. Snap a line between the two points. This will produce border tiles which will flare equally. If you were to make the centerline parallel with one of the side walls, one of the border edges would accept all of the mistake. This actually draws attention to the fact that the room is out of square.

Suspended Ceiling Grid Systems

If you are using a grid system to hold up your tile, you start your installation of the grid by installing the wall angle around the room. This is the simple L shaped metal piece. Pay attention to the manufacturer's minimum height restrictions! In other words, if you are using 2 x 4 foot panels, you often must make sure that the bottom of the grid system is 2 to 3 inches below the lowest point in the room. Without this clearance, you can't install the tiles! Don't forget this important step.

The wall angle is simply nailed to the side wall. Never chalk the level installation line at the bottom of the wall angle! Always chalk the line where the top of the angle will end up. Space the nails at 2 foot or less intervals. At inside corners you simply place one wall angle on top of another. Mitered corners look best at outside corners.

Installing the Grid Work

Patience and attention are required at this point. A mistake at this level will cause lots of problems. The trick is to install the main support tees along the centerline AND to install it so the cross tee slots will be in the correct location. In other words, you can't simply put the main tee up anywhere. If you start it wrong, the intersecting cross tees will not be in the right place or worse yet, not in a straight line! I guarantee you that the grid will come with instructions. Read these carefully until you understand them. Then, and only then, proceed!

Hanger Wire

Use the correct size of hanger wire. Residential ceilings can often be installed using 18 gauge wire. Commercial ceilings always require 12 gauge or heavier wire. The wire is attached to screw eye hooks or neat little screws that have a flattened end with a nifty hole made for the wire. I prefer using these. Hanger wire can be lifted off of cup or open hook devices.

Staple or Glued Ceiling Tile Installations

The methods of layout and planning are the same for these systems. However, when you finally decide upon where the starting row begins, you must snap you starting line accounting for the staple flange. If you forget to do this, your border tile may be off by as much as 1/2 inch. Read the instructions closely to avoid this mistake.

Staple or glued tiles always start at one corner of the room. This means that you must pay close attention to your layout plan. It also means that the tiles must be installed square. Your border chalk lines must be square or you will have major problems.

Border tiles can be faced nailed with small headed colored nails. Stay close to the edge so that the finished moldings will cover and hide the nails. Be sure to prefinish your ceiling trim moldings. Finishing them in the air will create a situation where you may get paint or stain on the new tile!

Tiles can be easily cut with a razor knife. Holes for light fixture boxes can be made with a pointed drywall saw. Cut slowly or you may blast away material from the edge of the cut. Use a blade that has fine teeth if possible. Wash your hands frequently to avoid smudges on the face of tiles.

Roof Truss Uplift

Posted on by Tim Carter

The Root of the Problem

Truss uplift happens because the exposed truss lumber in an attic space absorbs moisture. This acceptance of moisture causes the lumber to swell. The swelling lumber lifts the horizontal bottom chord of the truss causing it to bow upwards in the middle of the truss.

Where does the moisture originate? Are we going into another ice age, with winters that drench us with above average precipitation and humidity? Does this humidity seep into the attic because of the new-fangled soffit and ridge venting? The answers to both questions are maybe. However, the source of the problem, I believe, has nothing to do with outside humidity. The outside weather has been fairly consistent for many years, at least as long as we have been using trusses.

I believe that truss uplift is directly related to the fact that we are building houses with tight windows and doors, superior vapor barrier systems and air infiltration barriers. The moisture that used to leak out around openings and through walls now has only one escape route - the attic.

What To Do?

I certainly am an advocate for building tight houses and saving energy. To do otherwise wastes precious resources for future generations. I feel the solution lies in correctly identifying the problem, and coming up with a workable solution. Fortunately in this case, the solution is easy.

Truss uplift will continue to plague houses. As we use lumber that is younger and less dimensionally stable, the uplift may even intensify! Minimizing interior ceiling and wall damage can be accomplished by simply allowing for the truss movement. In addition, maximizing flow-through air movement in attic spaces will allow moisture absorption into the exposed lumber to be minimized.

Simple Hardware & Blocks

You can purchase simple metal L-brackets specially designed for attaching interior walls to roof trusses. They cost less than 50 cents apiece! It usually takes about 15 seconds on average to install one of these simple clips.

The L-brackets have a short leg about 1.25 inches long that sits on top of the wall. This leg has two holes in it that accept nails. The other leg of the bracket is about 2.5 inches long. It has a slot that runs lengthwise up and down the leg. A nail is driven in the center of the slot. The bracket holds the wall in position while allowing the truss to move up and down freely.

Drywall Hanging 101

To solve interior ceiling problems, drywall hangers must also be educated and part of the team. We know the truss will flex. As such, we can't allow the ceiling drywall to be attached to a truss within 16 inches of any interior wall. What keeps the drywall in position and constantly contacting the top of the wall? You have two options.

If you have scrap 2x6 lumber, you can cut blocks that fit between the trusses and overhang the top plate of the interior 2x4 walls. These blocks are nailed securely to the top of the walls, NOT the trusses. As the trusses move up, the blocks retain and hold the drywall edge flush with the top of the wall plates.

If lumber is too precious on your jobsite, you can use very inexpensive metal clips designed to retain the drywall. These clips cost less than 15 cents apiece and attach with small 8 penny common nails.

 

Repair Roof Truss Uplift

Posted on by Tim Carter

Repairing Truss Uplift Problems

If you're building a new house, inspect your trusses. They should not be nailed to a wall using 16 penny nails. If you see nails, they must be pulled and the special truss clips installed in their place. The walls need to be attached to the trusses so that they do not fall over.

When you need to repair trusses in your home, be prepared to be in a very grumpy mood. I just wanted to warn you. You will want to kill the rough carpenters who framed your house. The job is miserable, especially if you try to tackle it in the summer.

Existing House Problems

There are hundreds of thousands of existing houses that suffer from truss uplift. I saw it firsthand, for the first time, six years ago. I did not realize at the time what exactly was happening. I did determine by questioning the homeowner that it was a seasonal problem with cracks being the worst in February.

To achieve the best results, the job must actually occur in two phases. You need to release the trusses from the walls and reattach them with clips in the dead of winter. Then the summer months will find you installing the drywall clips or wood blocks that will hold the ceiling drywall tight to the wall drywall.

In the dead of winter the trusses should be bowed upwards. There should be a small gap between the truss and the top wall plate. If you are lucky, the gap will be large enough to easily slide a hacksaw blade between the pieces of wood. Cut through the nails holding the truss to the wallplate. Be on the lookout on both sides of the truss for electrical wires! An easier method may be to pull out the nails using a special tool called a cat's paw.

Once separated, the trusses need to be reattached to the walls with the special L-brackets. When attaching the truss clips, be sure that you drive the nail through the center of the slot on the leg that points upwards. Don't nail too close to the bottom or top of the slot. In addition, the drywall that is attached to the trusses near the walls needs to be released from the corners where walls meet the ceilings. You can do this by installing the 2x6 blocks in the summer months when the ceiling has settled back into position.

You can now safely install the drywall clips and retention blocks between the trusses. If you try to do all this work in the winter, you may crack the drywall as you beat it down to the top of the walls.

The following winter, nail pops will appear at each interior wall where a truss passes overhead. The nails need to be countersunk into the trusses to complete the job. Use a large, flat nail set to drive the nails up through the drywall into the truss.

If you do not do this, the patching compound you use to deal with the fresh nail pops will be pushed from each nail pop the following summer. As always, the time required to solve a problem far exceeds the time to do the job right in the first place. Fortunately, in this case, the work required is not too difficult. It simply is spread out over a period of months. Be careful working in the attic. Don't fall through to a room below!

If you are a gambling person, you can try to do all of this in the winter months in two weekends. Test an area of the ceiling first to make sure you are not cracking the drywall. If you can do the entire job in one phase, consider yourself lucky.