Blacktop Sealer Manufacturers & Associations

Blacktop Sealer Manufacturers & Associations

When you decide which blacktop sealer will perform best for you, who should you buy it from? Good question! Because the raw materials that are used to make a (meaning any type) blacktop sealer are readily available, just about anybody can get into the sealer business. However, as with any industry, there are a select group of manufacturers committed to producing high quality blacktop sealers. These manufacturers belong to an association called the Pavement Coating Technology Center. This association is headquartered at the University of Nevada in Reno. They have developed highly detailed specifications for applying driveway sealers. These specifications are primarily intended for commercial applications. However, these specifications can, and should be, used for residential applications. Go to their web site and read the specs!

Also, check out the web sites of the following two associations. They both have great information on the installation and maintenance of asphalt driveways.

  • National Asphalt Pavement Association (www.asphaltpavement.org/)
  • Asphalt Institute (www.asphaltinstitute.org)

Following is a list of manufacturers who are current members of the Pavement Coating Technology Center. They are committed to manufacturing high quality sealers. Look for products that are made by these companies. Study the labels and decide which product will work best for you. Call the manufacturers closest to your city to see who carries their products. Think of it, your investment in several phone calls may produce fantastic results. The manufacturers will gladly send you excellent product literature and tell you the locations of the closest retail outlets.

UPDATE: June 2003

I just got back from the Sears Editors conference and they proved that as of this writing, they sell the best driveway sealer on the market. The test samples they brought in were unbelievable. If you could have seen how quickly some of the top name brands wore away compared to the one Sears sells, you would be astonished. Buy Sears top-of-the-line sealer. I am 99.99% sure the product is made by the first company in the list below. You may be able to determine this by looking on the label of the Sears product.

Akzo Nobel Surface Chemistry
Bonsal American
Chemway Products, Inc.
Coopers Creek Chemicals Corp.
Corsicana Technologies, Inc.
Dalton Enterprises, Inc.
Gem Seal, Inc.
Kentucky-Tennessee Clay Co.
Koppers, Inc.
Reilly Industries, Inc.
S.T.A.R., Inc.
Surface Coatings Company
Tangent Rail Products
Unimin Corporation
Vance Brothers, Inc.
Velvetop Products

Associate Members

Good Seal Products Corp.
Great Lakes Coatings
Hercules Sealcoat Mfg. Inc.
McConnell & Associates Corp.
Pavement Coatings, Inc.
Paving Maintenance Coatings. Inc.
Sasco Pavement Coatings, Inc.
Star Seal of Florida
Star Seal of New York
Star Seal of Ohio, Inc.

Column B74

Tips on Sealing New and Old Blacktop Driveways

blacktop driveway sealing tim's drive not sealed

This blacktop driveway is twenty years old. It’s in very good condition. Photo credit: Tim Carter

Different Sealers

There are three basic types of blacktop or asphalt sealers: simple emulsified asphalt; refined coal tar sealers; and 100 percent man-made acrylic polymer sealers.

The simple asphalt emulsion sealers offer the lowest levels of protection. In essence, they simply contain the same asphalt that was used to bind the sand and gravel together in the first place. This asphalt coating will oxidize and get brittle just like the asphalt you are trying to protect!

The next best sealer to use is manufactured using refined coal tar. Refined coal tar offers two distinct advantages: it is not dissolved easily by gasoline; and oil and UV rays do not readily make it brittle.

Asphalt is easily dissolved by gasoline and oil drippings from your car. Because of this, you should consider using refined coal tar products.

There is a wide variety of refined coal tar products. Some of them have additional additives such as rubber and rubber-like polymers which make them more elastic. These sealers often contain fine sand and clays. The sand makes the sealers more durable. The clays make the sealers easier to apply.

The best and most expensive sealers you can buy are those that contain almost 100 percent man-made ingredients. These are the acrylic sealers. If you have ever played tennis on a blacktop court that has the distinctive green and red sealers, you have walked on these acrylic sealers.

The acrylics in these sealers are unaffected by sunlight and air. They stay flexible for many years. I know of a house only one mile from mine that has used the red colored sealer with great success. The driveway sealer they use often lasts for six to eight years before requiring another coat.

Yes, these acrylic sealers cost almost twice as much as refined coal tar sealers, however they may be a better value for you. I would check it out if I were you. Also, these acrylic sealers are available in black, so your driveway doesn't have to look like a tennis court!

Need help with sealing your driveway? CLICK or TAP HERE to get FREE QUOTES from local companies specializing in driveway sealing.


Tips on Sealing Old and New Blacktop Driveways

blacktop sealer

This is what blacktop looks like just after it's sealed. It looks like glossy black paint. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

New Blacktop Driveways

New blacktop should usually be sealed within its first year. Depending upon the time of year it was installed, your climate, daytime temperatures, etc. the earliest you can seal your driveway is 90 days after installation. Your driveway should be exposed for at least 90 days where the daytime temperature is 70F or greater. This allows the lightest weight oils in the asphalt to evaporate, which in turn allows the blacktop to harden. This is very important!! If you do not let these oils evaporate, your blacktop may remain soft for a long time. Things such as bike kickstands, heavy metal objects, etc. will dent your new blacktop.

If you have anything that leaks oil, use cardboard to protect the new blacktop to keep it oil-free until such time as you can seal it.

When it is time to seal your new blacktop, follow the pointers in the following section.

Existing Driveways

Sealing a driveway is not much different than painting the walls or ceiling in your house. If you have ever painted a room correctly, you know that you must wash the surfaces to be painted, patch any holes in the plaster, caulk all cracks, and apply the paint in a uniform thickness (not too thin and not too thick). Driveways are just the same.

Important Tips for a First Class Sealing Job

  • Remove all mud, vegetation, loose particles of sand and gravel, etc. WASH the entire surface to be sealed with water, brush dirty spots, rinse, and remove standing puddles of water.
  • Patch any depressions with whatever patching compound is required. Deep holes will require cold blacktop patch. Shallow depressions (where the blacktop has slightly eroded) can be patched with various smooth asphalt patching compounds that often have the consistency of cake icing. Be sure to follow directions, as some of these compounds might need to dry for several days before they are sealed!
  • Patch any cracks 1/8 inch or larger. Deep cracks should be filled with coarse sand to within 1/2 inch of the surface. Wide cracks up to 1 inch width may require special acrylic crack fillers that remain more flexible.
  • Remove caked up oil drippings. Clean oil spots with special oil cleaners available from the sealer companies. Tough spots should have a special oil primer applied so the sealer sticks to the oil stained area.
  • Just before (and during) sealing, fog the blacktop with enough water to dampen the surface.This water helps the sealer to bond to the older blacktop.

Only seal your driveway AFTER the old sealer has worn away. Even if you use just an emulsified asphalt sealer from a quality manufacturer, this coating should last two to three years. Applying sealer every year is a mistake. It is simply overkill and a waste of money. Good luck on your sealing project!

Blacktop’s Concrete-like Properties

Asphalt Concrete

Blacktop and concrete have some very similar properties. They both are a combination of ingredients. Concrete consists of gravel, sand and cement, cement being the material that holds the sand and gravel together. Blacktop consists of gravel, sand and asphalt. Asphalt, which occurs naturally and is a residual product of the crude oil refining process, is the glue that holds together the gravel and sand found in blacktop.

Sunlight and air (non-polluted) does not harm concrete. In fact, the carbon dioxide in air actually makes concrete stronger with age (especially in its first year!) Blacktop, however, is harmed by exposure to sunlight and air. This is the primary reason blacktop should be sealed on a regular basis.

Cracks in Blacktop

Many people do not realize that blacktop is marketed as a flexible pavement. It can actually stretch to some degree. This flexibility is derived from the asphalt which holds together the sand and gravel. Asphalt, when used in blacktop, is actually called asphalt cement. It is an unusual material because its viscosity (ability to flow like a liquid) actually changes with temperature. When cold, the asphalt cement can get hard. When hot the asphalt behaves like a thick maple syrup. This quality allows the finished product, blacktop, to stretch in certain situations. I have witnessed this phenomena at numerous bus stops in my city. The pavement at bus stops is often rutted right where the bus picks up passengers. This rutting is caused by the pressure of the bus tires on the pavement each time the bus brakes. The asphalt pavement is actually pushed or bulldozed ever so slightly each time the bus stops in hot weather.

When asphalt is exposed to air it begins to lose this quality. The lightweight oils in asphalt actually evaporate and the asphalt oxidizes. When this happens, the asphalt becomes brittle. Brittle asphalt is much more susceptible to cracking than fresh, flexible asphalt.


Get the best-looking asphalt driveway around!
Learn what to ask your contractor in my
Asphalt/Blacktop/Tar & Chip Installation & Repair Checklist.
I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


Cracks in blacktop frustrate many homeowners. A new crack-free driveway, as we discussed earlier, is gorgeous. There are two primary causes of cracks in blacktop: shrinkage and structural. Shrinkage cracks happen naturally because the blacktop loses volume (evaporating lightweight oils) early in its life. Structural cracks develop when the blacktop base is undersized and unable to handle the concentrated loads placed upon it. Remember, most residential blacktops are low-strength. They derive their strength from the gravel base beneath the blacktop. A structural crack will occur when the base gives more than the blacktop can stretch.

blacktop sealer

This is what blacktop looks like just after it's sealed. It looks like glossy black paint. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

This is where sealers enter the picture. Assuming that your driveway has an adequate base, you need to do two things after it is installed: slow down the loss of the lightweight oils after the new blacktop has cured; and protect the asphalt from the damaging effects of the ultraviolet (UV) rays in sunlight.

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Asphalt Paving Material

nice blacktop driveway

This is a blacktop driveway near my last home. it's in great shape and you know it's got a solid gravel base under it. Copyright 2017 Tim Carter

How do you get a smooth finished driveway surface?

There are different types of mixes of asphalt paving materials. The type and quality of asphalt cement and the size of the aggregate (rocks) account for the differences. The smaller the aggregate, the weaker the finished product will be. Most people want a very smooth finished surface. This requires the mixture to have smaller aggregate. If this is what you want, your installer may have to install two layers of paving material. The first layer will be slightly thicker and have slightly larger rocks. The finish layer will be thinner (1 to 1 1/4 inches) and have smaller stones and coarse sand. Always make sure that a tack coat of asphalt is used between layers. This acts as a glue to bond the layers together. A tack coat is not necessary if the second layer is applied shortly after the first layer.

If you are repaving an existing driveway, beware of reflection cracks! Reflection cracks are cracks that develop in the new pavement directly above existing cracks in the old pavement. This is a big problem if you install asphalt paving over concrete. The latest technology suggests that a few days after the blacktop is installed, you should consider saw cutting slots in the new blacktop directly above the existing cracks. These sawcuts will be straight and can be filled with a flexible crack sealer.

If repaving, absolutely make sure that all dust and dirt is removed from the old surface. Remove all vegetation from cracks and the edge of the driveway as well. Be sure to fill any low spots with patching material prior to applying the finish layer of blacktop.


Get the best-looking asphalt driveway around! Learn what to ask your contractor in my Asphalt/Blacktop/Tar & Chip Installation & Repair Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


Sealing & Maintenance

Many associations recommend that you seal your new driveway one year after it is installed. Be sure to use a high quality commercial bituminous water emulsion sealer. If your drive is on a hill, consider using a sealer which contains sand.

How often should you seal a driveway?

Do not seal your driveway every year! Sealers are coatings, just like paint. You can easily apply too much and the coatings will begin to crack and peel. Only reseal the driveway after you can clearly see that the old sealer is wearing. When the color of the aggregate (rocks) begins to show, it is time to reseal. Because the sealer will wear off faster in areas where there is foot and car traffic, apply sealer to the non-traffic areas a little thinner. Otherwise, you will begin to get a buildup of sealer which may begin to crack and peel.

CLICK or TAP HERE to get FREE QUOTES from local companies that can seal your blacktop driveway.

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Tips on Residential Blacktop & Asphalt Paving

nice blacktop driveway

This is a blacktop driveway near my last home. it's in great shape and you know it's got a solid gravel base under it. Copyright 2017 Tim Carter

Tips on Residential Blacktop Driveway

Working with blacktop is like working with many construction materials. It takes skill, knowledge, well-maintained equipment, high quality asphalt paving and base materials and favorable working conditions. If any one of these is compromised, you will, in all likelihood, get a poor quality job. If two or more of these are compromised, there is no doubt that you will experience inferior results.

As with anything, the more you know, the better your chances of success. Here are some tips which will enable you to ask some intelligent questions as you talk to asphalt contractors:


Get the best-looking asphalt driveway around! Learn what to ask your contractor in my Asphalt/Blacktop/Tar & Chip Installation & Repair Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


Driveway Drainage Slope

Make sure that your finished pavement will slope at least 1/4 inch per foot. You must have positive drainage on top of the blacktop. Water must not be allowed to puddle on top of blacktop. If your driveway is virtually level this is not a problem. Simply have the contractor install a crown in the driveway. The middle of the driveway will be higher than the edges. That way water will run from the middle to each edge.

Sub-grade

The subgrade is the soil beneath your driveway. Different soils have widely different strength characteristics. If your soil is a plastic type clay, it can be very weak. It will deform easily when heavy concentrated loads are placed on it. Check with your local agricultural extension service to see what type of soil you have. Often they have soil maps which tell you the strength characteristics of your soil.

If building a new driveway, you must remove all top soil. Also, remove any roots or other material which can decay. Be sure to compact the soil if it was disturbed while digging. If you have utility trenches which will cross the driveway (water, gas, sewer, electric lines), make sure that your builder fills these trenches with gravel all the way to the top! Do not allow the builder to backfill these trenches with soil! The soil will eventually settle and your driveway will have a depression.

If you have soil which is poorly drained when wet, you should give serious consideration to installing drain tile beneath the base. This drain tile will help to keep water from softening the soil and spoiling the base. Consider installing a geo-tech fabric in these conditions as well. These fabrics help to keep the mud from getting mixed with gravel. If you have an area with heavy vegetation, you can sterilize the soil to inhibit plant growth. However, use these chemicals sparingly so as not to harm the environment.

Asphalt Driveway Base

The base or foundation of an asphalt driveway is the key to a crack-resistant surface. The base and the soil beneath it do all the work in supporting the loads which will be placed on the driveway. There are two types of bases. One is the standard crushed gravel base. This base is placed on high quality, strong, compacted soils. It often is a minimum of 6 inches thick. It can be up to 8 to 10 inches in thickness, depending on the strength of the soil and what type of vehicles will be on the driveway. You should always build the driveway for the heaviest vehicle which will be placed on it. For example, suppose you intend to have a fully loaded concrete truck on your driveway. Many of these trucks weigh 36 tons when fully loaded. Each wheel of the truck could have a 6 to 8 ton load on it! The footprint of each tire is less than 1 square foot! The little bit of extra money you spend on the thicker base will be worth it.

CLICK or TAP HERE to get FREE QUOTES from local companies that can install your driveway.

You can also install an asphalt base. This type of base is similar to standard blacktop except for one thing. The aggregate (rocks) in the mixture are larger than normal. This larger aggregate gives the asphalt base great strength characteristics. This type of base does not usually have to be installed as thick as a gravel base. It also is a better base to use if your soil is poorly drained or if it is a heavy clay.

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AsktheBuilder mp3 Radio Show June 11 2005

Husky Mechanic's Tool Sets

I gave away six of these Husky Mechanic's Tool Sets during the show today. Don't you wish you lived in Cincinnati, OH so you could participate? PHOTO BY: Husky Tools

Each title below is a direct link to a downloadable mp3 file. Just click the title if you want to listen. Right click if you want to download into your computer to save and play at a later date.

The Copyright to all radio segments is owned by Tim Carter. I would love to know what you think of these radio segments. Do you like them? Do they help you? Have they saved you money and/or time? Let me know by sending me an email: [email protected]


 

 

Husky Tool Set Giveaway Contest

Flooding Danger From Heavy Rain

Waterproofing a Hole in a Foundation

Lending a New Walkboard to Relatives

Toolset and Concrete Block Prevent Car Crushing Injury

Sawdust in Clean Swimming Pool and Divorce

Water Heater Sediment Causes Gurgling Noise

Saw Cuts Finger While Cutting Plywood

Patching Synthetic Stucco

Router Bit Cuts Finger to Ribbons

Mystery Call

Wiring an Outlet While the Power is Still On!

Connecting Two Water Heaters Together

Applying Fiberglass Board to a Bathroom Ceiling

AsktheBuilder mp3 Radio Show June 4 2005

Here is the board. This is the piece of equipment that makes the radio show happen. PHOTO BY: Tim Carter

Here is the board. This is the piece of equipment that makes the radio show happen. PHOTO BY: Tim Carter

 

Each title below is a direct link to a downloadable mp3 file. Just click the title if you want to listen. Right click if you want to download into your computer to save and play at a later date.

The Copyright to all radio segments is owned by Tim Carter. I would love to know what you think of these radio segments. Do you like them? Do they help you? Have they saved you money and/or time? Let me know by sending me an email: [email protected]


 

 

Sears Editors Conference Ft. Lauderdale, Florida

Sears Powder Coating Tool

Repairing Ceramic Wall Tile

Sears Incredi-pull Engine-Starting Gizmo

Deck Cleaning and Staining

Sheet Vinyl Over Embossed Tile Floor

Sears Air Compressor and Nail Gun Combo Kit

Bubbles on Freshly Painted Interior Wall

Making a Hot Attic Cool

Pegboard and Custom Color Pegboard

metal pegboard with tools

This is a great starter set of the metal pegboard, hooks and accessories. This is the brand I have in my home.

DEAR TIM: My garage, indoor workshop and utility room are cluttered. I have seen all sorts of expensive storage solution systems, but most are way beyond my budget. Traditional wood pegboard will work, but I would like something better and more colorful. Is there a new storage solution similar to pegboard? Amy C., Trenton, NJ

DEAR AMY: You may think I am pretty dull, but I have often wondered how many millions of square feet of quarter-inch-thick by 4 foot by 8 foot wooden pegboard have been manufactured and sold over the past 40 years. For many years, it was the only commonly available wall storage material available to consumers like you and me. But the tide has turned and the marketplace is awash in a wide variety of very cool wall storage products.

metal pegboard with tools

Photo by: Wall Control

I am in agreement with you about some of the total-solution storage products. Once you purchase all of the components, the grand total including sales tax can take your breath away. Fortunately, I stumbled across an affordable unique storage system that takes the traditional pegboard approach and enhances it in any number of ways. This great product is custom color pegboard made from metal. Not only does it have the traditional round pegboard holes, but it also sports thin vertical slots. These slots really got my attention when I saw them at an industry trade show.

One of the problems many people had in the past with wood-byproduct pegboard is the nuisance of hook / hanger removal when you pulled a tool off the wall. It was not uncommon for the hook to pop off the pegboard as you pulled the tool towards you. Certain hooks were equipped with retention devices, but over time these would fail as stress would enlarge the holes in the flimsy sawdust and glue pegboard. Once the hole in the pegboard enlarged just the slightest bit, the hook would once again pop out of the hole.

The new metal pegboard is astonishing. It is a modular system whose primary component is a 16-inch wide by 32-inch high by three-quarter-inch thick metal panel. You can place as many or as few of these panels on a wall as you desire. The metal panels come in a variety of custom colors and they have the standard one-quarter inch diameter holes should you wish to use traditional pegboard hardware.

But the metal panels have a better feature in my opinion. Each durable metal panel has 240 thin one-inch high vertical slots spaced on one-inch centers. There are 16 rows each with 15 slots in each row. Ingenious metal hardware hooks permanently lock into these slots. The special hook ends can be found at the ends of a wide variety of accessory hangers, hooks, shelves, paper towel holders, spray paint can holders, etc.

Pegboard Colors

Photo by: Wall Control

The special hooks were designed to lock into the vertical slots and it requires a special movement to remove a hook and relocate it to another slot. This movement is not natural when you are removing a tool from a hanger so the hardware always stays attached to the panels when you do remove a tool from the wall.

Wider panels that are 32-inches wide by 8-inches high are also available. These are perfect for utility rooms where you might want to hang brooms, mops or any other longer tool. The accessory hooks and hangers made for brooms and mops are wonderful as they allow for quick and easy hanging as well as removal when you need to get to work. Once again, you never have to worry about gingerly removing a tool so as to ensure the hanger stays on the wall.

Kathy, my wife, loved the system so much she asked me to install two panels above the sink that is next to the basement interior glass-block greenhouse I built for her. She now has all of the tools and supplies she needs to help her tend to all of the blooming orchids in the greenhouse. Although the metal pegboard can't take any credit for the blooms, it surely contributes to Kathy's good mood!

The custom color pegboard is available at many discount department stores as well as online. The panels come in a sleek galvanized gray metal, painted white, green, red, orange, black or gray. The variety of accessories is mind-boggling. I especially love the combination shelf / paper-towel holder.

Perhaps the best part is how easily the metal panels can be installed. There are pre-punched holes at each corner that allow you to install the panels on any wall where the studs are 16 inches on center. The panels can also be installed quickly on concrete or concrete block walls using anchors. Because they install easily, you can remove them even quicker. Believe me, you may love this system so much you take it with you when you move!

Check out my Hand Tool Storage column where Andy lost it over missing tools!

Column 571

Manufactured Stone Installation

Manufactured Stone Installation

The stone mason is working with wet mortar and buttered the piece of stone well before he pressed it in place. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: Soon I am supposed to have some manufactured stone installed on my house. But I must say I am a little concerned. A new house in my subdivision had it installed recently and after three months, 10 percent of the stones have popped off the wall. That makes me think the product is defective. Should I change to a different material? What do you think happened? Roger P., Kansas City, MO

DEAR ROGER: The popular manufactured stone materials are almost all Portland cement-based products. The best and most good-looking stones are highly sophisticated poured concrete products that are made using special molds and high-quality long-lasting permanent pigments. Even lower quality manufactured stone is still simply a mixture of sand, small stones, cement and pigments. As for defective product, I would only suspect this if the actual stones themselves were soft and crumbled easily.

If we had video tape footage of the workers installing your neighbor's stone and some past weather data, I suspect we would quickly discover what went wrong. My instincts tell me the error was 99 percent workmanship related, not product failure.

How is manufactured stone installed?

Manufactured stone is glued onto the vertical surface of a home as opposed to natural stone which is set on top of one another. Traditional stone is stacked, and gravity pushes down on each stone. Manufactured stone is typically adhered to a wall surface with a cement stucco mixture that is often very rich in Portland cement.

The process of installing manufactured stone is not too different from the way traditional cement stucco is applied to the side walls of a home. With traditional stucco, several layers of wet stucco are applied and troweled to the desired finish. The wet stucco is a mixture of sand, Portland cement and sometimes other ingredients such as lime or latex modifiers. Once dry, the stucco is as hard as rock. With manufactured stone, the hardening process happens at the factory instead of the jobsite. The mason simply uses a stucco mixture to glue the manufactured stones to the house.

What could have gone wrong with the stone installation?

In your neighbor's case, any number of things could have gone wrong. The stucco mixture the contractor was using may have been mixed wrong. It might have had too little Portland cement in it. The stucco mix could have sat around the jobsite too long after being mixed. It could have started to harden on the mortar boards. If the contractor then tried to breathe life in this spent stucco mix by retempering it with water, this would have made a very weak bonding stucco.

The wall surface onto which the stones were set could have been dusty. The actual manufactured stones could have been dusty, too hot or too dry. It often helps if the back surface of the stones is slightly damp when the stucco mix is applied. If the stones are too hot and dry, they can suction too much water from the stucco mix too quickly. If this happens, the stucco mix never achieves its design strength.

Were the manufactured stone's instructions followed?

I can tell you for a fact that if the manufactured stone is applied per the manufacturer's instructions, it should stay on the side of your house for many years. If done right, I can see no reason why it couldn't last for hundreds of years. Cement stucco that is properly mixed and applied can last for hundreds of years with ease. Keep in mind that the stucco mix used with manufactured stone is hidden for the most part from the harsh weather elements. The manufactured stone takes the brunt of the wear from the weather. If your contractor takes the time to mix the stucco correctly and apply it while it is fresh, you should have no problems whatsoever.

If you really want the manufactured stone to stick to a home like epoxy, you can add one small step to the process. Typically the stone is applied to a surface that already has a layer of rough cement stucco or it can even be a concrete block wall.

CLICK or TAP HERE to get FREE QUOTES from local companies that will install your manufactured stone so it will last for years.

Once all materials are set up and the stucco is mixed, mix a batch of Portland cement paint. This is simply Portland cement powder mixed with pure water until it is the consistency of thin gravy. Dampen the surface of the wall slightly and the back of the stone. Use a brush to apply a very thin layer of the cement paint to the wall surface where the stone will be placed and to the back of the stone. Immediately butter the back of the stone with the stucco mixture and place the stone on the wall. Hold the stone in place for 10 seconds.

The cement paint works because it forms millions of microscopic interlocking crystals between the stone, stucco and wall surface. The stucco creates its own crystals, but the cement paint just adds even more bonding power. The cement paint is simple to apply and will permanently lock the stones into position.

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