Rubber Roofing

rubber roofing

This dark gray material is a rubber roof. If you look closely you can read the tire company name that made it. PHOTO BY: Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I just had a rubber membrane roof put on. Half my roof was stripped and plywood and insulation board were put down. The other half of the roof was scheduled to be worked on two days later. Before leaving my house, the contractor put a tarp down to protect the unfinished work.

That night the wind blew away a big piece of the tarp and the insulation board and plywood got rained on. The next day it was windy and overcast. When the contractor proceeded with his work, he said everything was dry as a bone and he put the rubber membrane on top of the insulation board and plywood. The amount of rain was enough that the water came into my kitchen. It had rained most of the night when the tarp had blown off.

The roof is now finished, but I know that some of the plywood and insulation board had gotten wet. The roofer used his tools to pry up the pieces of plywood to allow the space under the roof to dry. However soon after this was done the rubber membrane was applied. Do I have any reason for concern? Rachel A., Norfolk, VA

DEAR RACHEL: Believe it or not, rain-soaked roof sheathing can dry pretty quickly if exposed to some breezy wind conditions and even moderate sunlight. I have seen dew-saturated plywood dry within 45 minutes in the right conditions. My experience tells me the roof sheathing was probably just fine as the work continued.

But the insulation under the plywood should be the concern. It could take days to dry. Now that the roof is covered with a rubber membrane that completely stops the movement of liquid water and virtually all water vapor, I would have a heightened level of concern if I were you.

How can you tell if insulation is wet?

The first thing to do is try to open up the ceiling in the kitchen to inspect the hidden cavity. See if the insulation is wet. If you discover moisture, take videos of the wet material and take plenty of photos to document the damage. I also suggest you do this in the presence of a disinterested friend or neighbor who will be able to sign a sworn affidavit at some future time. I am afraid to tell you that the entire ceiling needs to be opened up so the ruined insulation can be removed and the framing allowed to dry.

I would then call the roofing company and see what they will do to assist you to repair any damage, even if you just have to patch a small inspection hole. If you meet a little resistance from the roofer, ask for a certificate of insurance.


Avoid repairing roof leaks yourself! Find a professional using my Roofing Replacement / Repair Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


What is a Certificate of Insurance?

Actually, you should have had this important document in your possession before you accepted their bid. A certificate of insurance proves that a roofing company has a valid liability insurance policy. Obtaining this proof is very important anytime you hire a contractor to work on your home. Never feel ashamed or embarrassed to ask for this document. Remember, it is your home and you want to know that damage to it will be paid for in the event of an accident or poor workmanship practices such as improper attachment of a tarp.

While the roofer had great intentions covering your unfinished roof with a tarp, Mother Nature thought he was building a sailboat. Tarps that are not expertly secured can become giant sails in a gusty rainstorm. If the wind gets a purchase under one corner of the tarp, it can tear loose in short order. Imagine what would have happened if it rained for days and you lost all of the ceilings in your home? Believe me, this has happened to many people.

CLICK or TAP HERE to get FREE QUOTES from local roofing companies that can address your roofing issues.

If the roofer gives you any trouble whatsoever, you should write a detailed letter to the roofing company telling them you have grave concerns about trapped moisture under the roof. Include a truthful time line of all of the events. Just state the facts. Do not editorialize or state things you think happened. Just state exactly what you know to be fact.

Write down the facts!

Reference the amount of rainfall and all facts including the loss of the temporary covering. Show photos of ceiling damage and the one you sent me. The roofer obviously was concerned about moisture under the wood since he is making an effort to get air under the wood by using his tools to lift up the edges of the plywood.

The letter you write to the roofer or any other contractor is part of the paper trail that is vitally important should the situation enter the legal arena. Attorneys, judges and juries love to see written correspondence.

If you want fantastic protection of your rights, the letter needs to contain a very important sentence at the end. I would write something like this:

If you disagree with any of the facts or the timing of the events that I have referenced above, please respond to me in writing within 10 business days. Be sure to include documentation that supports your statements and clearly shows that what I have presented above is in error.

The insurance company needs to be sent a copy of the letter to put them on notice of a possible claim. These letters need to be sent to both companies via certified mail with a return receipt being sent to you. Keep these very valuable receipts.

Column 568

Tips for Installing Insulation

Be sure to read the special Author's Note at the end of this column. It provides updated information on this topic.

Insulation Installation Tips

Insulation is a fairly easy material to work with. You do not need expensive tools or equipment for normal installations. A tape measure, utility knife, straight edge, insulation knife and a stapler are usually all you will need. It is also a good idea to protect your body. So, use lightweight work gloves, a long sleeved loose fitting shirt, goggles or protective glasses, and a dust mask.

Fiberglass insulation expands when it is opened. They compress the material at the factory. When opened, it may expand 500 to 1,000 percent! So, don't open the material until you are ready.

When installing insulation in cavities that contain wires, it is a good idea to partially split the insulation where it crosses the wire. The idea is to encapsulate the wire with insulation. If you (or the installer) do not do this, there will be a void space behind the insulation! The insulation will not be able to expand fully. I have seen installers fail to split the insulation on many jobs that I have visited. Don't let it happen on your job!

Insulation must be placed around all windows and doors to fill the gap between the frame and the rough opening. The entire gap should be filled, however, be sure it is not packed too tightly! It may bulge the frame and you lose insulating value when insulation is too tightly packed.


Learn even more secrets for successfully installing insulation with my Insulation Installation Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


Always use baffles when installing blown-in attic insulation. The air from the soffits or eaves must be able to pass over the insulation in the narrow area where the roof passes over the exterior walls!

Don't install a vapor barrier on ceilings!!!!!! Let the water vapor into the attic area and out of the house!

Author's Note:

Routinely I am blessed to hear from professionals and industry experts who share in-depth and updated information about a topic. You'll absolutely want to read the letter I received from the President of NAIMA (North American Insulation Manufacturers Association). It really helps clarify some of the points I just touched on in the insulation columns.

Column B54

R Value and Insulation Manufacturers, Associations

Insulation R-Value Recommendations

The U.S. Department of Energy has recently upgraded insulation R-value recommendations.These recommendations were the result of studies of energy costs for both heating and cooling by zip code. The United States, as a result of this study, was divided into eight zones. There is a wide range of R-values for ceilings. These R-values range from R-49 in the coldest locations to R-30 in the warmest parts of our nation. All areas of the nation require a minimum R-19 for exterior walls and floors over unheated crawl spaces.

Owens Corning has an extensive web site geared to consumers with information on insulation. Go to "Insulating At a Glance" and check out the wealth of information.

Insulation Manufacturers & Associations

  • ADO Products
    Fiberglass
  • Ark-Seal Inc. International
    Blown-in-Blanket System
  • Certainteed Corporation Insulation Group
    Fiberglass Batts & Blown-in
  • Guardian Fiberglass, Inc.
    Blow-in fiberglass
  • Owens-Corning
    Fiberglass Batts and Blown-in
  • Cellulose Insulation Manufacturers Association
  • North American Insulation Manufacturers

Column B54

Fiberglass – Newest Improvements

Be sure to read the special Author's Note at the end of this column. It provides updated information on this topic.

New Technology For Fiberglass

As I mentioned in a previous article, insulation manufacturers are responding with new products. Two exciting technologies have emerged in response to some of the problems that installers have experienced in using existing materials.

When installing fiberglass batts in standard width wall, floor or ceiling stud (joist) bays, you generally have no problems. However, wires, pipes and irregular framed areas make for big problems. Fiberglass batts depend upon a tight fit to achieve desired R-values. This is tough to do around pipes and wires.

This problem led to the development of blow-in-blanket fiberglass insulation. The loose fiberglass is treated with an adhesive and blown behind a tightly stretched plastic membrane. This allows the fiberglass to fill every void and plug all holes. Plus, it's guaranteed not to settle!

Manufacturers are also producing fiberglass batt insulation which is wrapped entirely in plastic. This minimizes airborne fiberglass particles which recently are thought to be a possible carcinogen.

Another advantage is comfort of installation. Fiberglass can and does irritate your skin. I never looked forward to installing it. The new plastic wrapped batts are a plus!

You can also purchase high density fiberglass batts. These products offer a higher R-value per inch because they have more fiberglass fibers per cubic inch. This means that there are more small air pockets available to slow down heat loss or heat transfer.

The new products are exciting!

Author's Note:

Routinely I am blessed to hear from professionals and industry experts who share in-depth and updated information about a topic. You'll absolutely want to read the letter I received from the President of NAIMA (North American Insulation Manufacturers Association). It really helps clarify some of the points I just touched on in the insulation columns.

Column B54

Insulation – Fiberglass and Cellulose

Be sure to read the special Author's Note at the end of this column. It provides updated information on this topic.

Fiberglass & Cellulose Insulation Facts, Installation Thicknesses, Manufacturers & Tips

Insulation is like just about any other building material with respect to changes. Major manufacturers spend millions of dollars on research and development in an attempt to make better and better products. Innovations and new products often result from these efforts.

One wouldn't think that insulation would be able to be greatly improved. After all, it is a very basic material, either fiberglass or cellulose. I mean, really, what can you do to those materials? The answer is simple. Lots!

Insulation Facts

Insulation is a really big business. For example, fiberglass insulation sales are close to from four to six billion dollars per year. Cellulose insulation sales are much smaller. The Cellulose Insulation Manufacturers Association quotes annual sales of cellulose ranging between 115 and 125 million dollars. It is obvious that fiberglass is the sweetheart building material preferred by builders, remodelers and homeowners. Part of the reason for the low cellulose sales figure lies in the fact that product quality suffered during the energy crisis of the 1970's. The number of companies making cellulose swelled and many of these companies made an inferior product.


Learn the secrets for successfully installing insulation with my Insulation Installation Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


Fiberglass Facts

Fiberglass is a very unique product. Its name describes exactly what it is. Fiberglass is simply spun glass fibers. Glass is melted and spun in a centrifuge that has small holes. It's pretty similar to making cotton candy, but on a much bigger scale.

Fiberglass is non-combustible. It simply won't burn. If a fire gets hot enough, it will just melt. However, fiberglass batts that are covered with kraft paper or a foil facing are combustible. The fiberglass won't burn, but the paper and foil facings will readily burn. In fact, many household fires are caused in this fashion. I, myself, accidentally started a fire in a crawlspace. Someone had installed kraft paper faced insulation between the floor joists with the paper facing out towards the ground. I was using a plumbing torch to solder some pipes. I was trying to be extremely careful, however, I glanced away for just a second and whoosh the paper was on fire! Fortunately, I was able to quickly extinguish the fire.

Fiberglass, especially batt type, will not settle with age. Because of this attribute, it will maintain its R-value (measure of insulating power) over the life of the product.

The R-value of blown-in fiberglass insulation can be affected by temperature differences in very cold climates. In fact, it can lose up to 50 percent of its R-value when the temperature differential between the heated space and the unheated attic is significant. The best defense in these situations is to install extra fiberglass to compensate for this loss.

The R-value of different types of fiberglass is not the same per inch. For example, you can expect R-values between 3.2 to 3.3 per inch in fiberglass batts and blankets when fully expanded. Loose fiberglass fill (poured or blown) usually exhibits an R-value of 2.1 to 2.7 per inch.

Cellulose Facts

Cellulose insulation is very easy to manufacture and the raw material, recycled newspapers, is very inexpensive. The equipment to blow it in is also very inexpensive.

There are two ways to install it. It can either be blown-in dry or wet. The wet application requires water and an adhesive.

The cellulose can also be blown before drywall or plaster is attached to walls. In these instances,a tough plastic fabric is stretched tightly across the wall framing members. The cellulose is then blown in at the top of the membrane. The installers need to make sure that the density is consistent, however.

Cellulose, especially when blown dry, can and does settle. Manufacturers recommend that you install cellulose until it reaches its 'settled' R-value. After settling, cellulose has an R-value of 3 per inch.

Cellulose is fire resistant. It is not fireproof! Cellulose treated with fire resistant chemicals has ignited in laboratory and real-life installed conditions. Cellulose insulation fires can sometimes smolder undetected for hours. Laboratory tests have shown that cellulose insulation, when heated to temperatures near 300 degrees F, can loose its fire retardant properties. Cellulose also has a tendency to produce large volumes of dust during installation. This is more of a problem when installing the material dry.

Author's Note:

Routinely I am blessed to hear from professionals and industry experts who share in-depth and updated information about a topic. You'll absolutely want to read the letter I received from the President of NAIMA (North American Insulation Manufacturers Association). It really helps clarify some of the points I just touched on in this column.

Column 054

Fiberglass Blankets and Blown In Insulation

Be sure to read the special Author's Note at the end of this column. It provides updated information on this topic.

truss framing and blown insulation

Fiberglass Blankets and Blown In Insulation

There are two or three fiberglass manufacturers that everybody knows. Each of these companies has tried to create an identity for themselves by coloring their fiberglass insulation products. However, did you know that there are a total of seven companies in the business? Some of the names you would readily recognize. Others are minor players. The bottom line, though, is that fiberglass is virtually the same no matter who makes it. The important part of the manufacturing process is how it is spun, cross-laminated and constructed.

Fiberglass insulation works as an insulator when it can trap and hold millions and billions of air bubbles or particles. This is accomplished by the intertwining of the fiberglass fibers. Too much fiberglass per given cubic measurement and you have no air. Too little fiberglass and the air can pass through rapidly. The trick is to get the correct balance. The major manufacturers perfected this process years ago. Recently their research has provided insulation which is less irritating, and batts which come wrapped in plastic. The scientists continue to work hard on new products. I can't wait to see when the space shuttle heat shield technology finally makes it to the residential market. When it does, we will be heating our homes with a candle!attic roof framing blown insulation gable end vent

Blown-in fiberglass is the same product as batt insulation. A DIY'r can easily install batt insulation. Blown-in fiberglass is not so easy. The biggest obstacle is finding installation equipment. The blowing machines for fiberglass are large and powerful. They are usually truck mounted, not portable. The engines that power the blowers are usually 10 horsepower or larger. You won't put this type of equipment in the back of your car, trust me! Call the professional. It is usually cheaper.

  • Ark-Seal, Inc. Int'l.
  • CertainTeed Insulation
  • Georgia-Pacific Corp.
  • Guardian Fiberglass
  • Johns Manville
  • Knauf Fiber Glass
  • Owens Corning

Learn the secrets for successfully installing insulation with my Insulation Installation Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


Insulation Association

If you need some generic information about fiberglass and other insulators, contact this association:

North American Insulation Manufacturers

North American In The NAHB (National Association of Home Builders) Research Center has developed an Insulation Contractor Certification program. To find a list of certified installers, go to nahbrc.org and click on Lab/Certification Services.

Author's Note:

Routinely I am blessed to hear from professionals and industry experts who share in-depth and updated information about a topic. You'll absolutely want to read the letter I received from the President of NAIMA (North American Insulation Manufacturers Association). It really helps clarify some of the points I just touched on in the insulation columns.

Column B165

Granite Countertops

Granite Countertops under support

Granite Countertops | This wall assembly has two things that ensure it is strong and the countertop will not tip over; a short wall at the end of the long wall and a steel plate that supports the countertop. Some tops have granite stains caused by nature, not oil or water. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I recently cut away the top half of an interior non-load bearing wall so I could open up the space between two adjacent rooms. I plan to put a countertop on top of the wall so we can use it for eating and a conversation center. But the one end of this new half-wall is now very flimsy and rocks back and forth. How can I strengthen this wall and how do you attach the wide countertop to this thin half-wall so that the top does not flip when someone leans on it? Mike S., Richmond, VA

DEAR MIKE: This sounds like a great project to add value to a home. Creating a pass-through space on top of a half-wall or doing major surgery as you have done really helps to make a home feel more inviting. Even if that original wall had been a load-bearing wall, the top half of it could have been removed. When faced with this situation, it is always best to hire a residential structural engineer to help create the plan for the needed structural modifications.

It is easy to understand why the end of the half-wall wobbles. Before you cut the original wall, the top of it was securely fastened at the ceiling. I am quite sure slight or moderate force at this point will cause the half-wall to bend over to the floor. If the floor beneath this half-wall is a traditional wood floor system and you can access the underside of the wood floor via a basement or crawl space, you may be able to remove the wobble in the half-wall in less than 30 minutes.

How do you support a countertop?

If you add one 2x4 stud to the end of the half-wall, making sure this stud passes through the wood subfloor and is long enough to extend to the bottom of the floor joists below, nearly all of the wobble in the half-wall can be removed. This long 2x4 needs to be bolted directly to the half-wall above the floor as well as to the side of a floor joist or to solid-wood blocking that's placed between two floor joists.

It is important for the bottom portion of this stud that is below the level of the floor to be secured at two points to the floor joist or the solid-wood blocking. This double connection minimizes rotation of the stud as a person pushes against the top of the half-wall.

If the floor is a concrete slab or you are unable to gain access to the underside of the floor, you have to strengthen the half-wall from above. This can be done a number of ways, but I prefer to add a second short wall that is oriented at 90 degrees to the half-wall. This short wall needs to be faced on both sides with three-quarter inch thick plywood that is screwed to the short wall studs. This wall also needs to be securely bolted to the half-wall. Do not nail it, as over time the nails may work loose. When you securely bolt this short wall to the floor, you will be amazed at how stiff the half-wall becomes.

Securing a countertop that is perhaps 20 or even 24 inches in width to a half-wall that is only 5 or 6 inches wide is asking for trouble. As you know, it is impractical to bolt the countertop to the half-wall from the visible finished side of the top. The connection must be done on the underside of the top.

Many builders and designers use decorative brackets that help support the top and offset the downward rotation that happens when a person pushes down against the edge of the top. I am not a huge fan of these brackets for any number of reasons. For starters, they can get in the way of peoples knees who might sit at stools as they eat or drink at the countertop. Some brackets can detract from the sleek look of the half-wall and the countertop.

granite countertop no support

This granite top is doomed for failure the moment someone decides to sit on it unless a support is put underneath it. © 2016 Linda Hewing Perpetual license to publish it granted to Tim Carter - AsktheBuilder.com by Linda

Can a steel plate be used to support a countertop overhang?

One method that has worked well for me is to use a piece of flat one-eighth-inch-thick plate steel that is screwed and bolted to the top of the half-wall. (Refer to the top photograph.) I prefer to order the steel plate so that it is four inches less in width and length than the finished countertop. The short wall wall at the end of the half-wall becomes an ally when you use this steel support plate. When the steel plate passes over this small wall and is secured to it, it is very difficult to twist the steel plate farther down the half-wall.

Holes drilled in the steel plate allow you to place screws through it into the underside of the countertop. If the countertop is one that will not readily accept screws - such as natural stone, man-made stone or a solid-surface material, then use epoxy to adhere the countertop to the large steel plate.

The other advantage to using the steel plate is the extra strength it imparts to the finished top. If your countertop will be made from natural stone, the steel plate prevents cracks that may happen if too much weight is placed at the edge of the countertop.

CLICK or TAP HERE to get FREE QUOTES from local companies that can install your countertop so it doesn't fall.

A well-placed finished cabinet at the end of a half-wall can take the place of the short wall. The cabinet, by default, is very stable. Once the countertop is screwed to the cabinet, there is much less wobble in the half-wall. The width and depth of the cabinets helps to resist the top flipping if people push down on its edge.

When building a new home or doing an extensive remodel, the options a builder has to strengthen these long half-walls are many. Precisely placed steel angle irons can be poured into a concrete slab. Half-walls built above wood subfloors can be located so the long stud at the end of the half-wall passes directly next to a floor joist. There are often as many options as there are clever builders and carpenters!

Related Column: Granite

Column 563

Installing Insulation

truss framing and blown insulationInsulation Installation Tips

Working with fiberglass is easy. Professional installers use a regular knife to cut the batt material. The knife has a six inch long blade that is fairly sharp, but not as sharp as a new razor knife would be. It readily cuts the material. Using a razor knife to cut thick batts can often require two or three passes.


Learn the secrets for successfully installing insulation with my Insulation Installation Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


If you install batts in your attic rather than blown-in insulation, you need to take your time. A tight fit around any object that sticks through the insulation is essential. I suggest you do this type of work in cool weather when your patience will not be affected by your comfort!

You should also consider just how you are going to get the material into your attic. Many attic access holes will not provide enough room to fit a rolled up batt! Be sure to check this out or otherwise you will be tracking unrolled material through the house. Fiberglass fibers will be everywhere!

CLICK or TAP HERE to get FREE QUOTES from local insulation companies that can make your house warm.

Fans and Recessed Lights

Insulation traps heat. This is good for your house but can cause fires if you cover fans and recessed lights that contain older wires. The heat from fan motors and light bulbs can easily create temperatures that will melt insulation and cause fires! If you are in doubt about what to do, ALWAYS check with a code official or build a sturdy plywood box over the fixture. Provide at least 12 inches of space between the box and any fixture part. You can then insulate over the top and sides of this box. The air space will help dissipate the heat.

Column B165

Fiberglass – Common Questions

Be sure to read the special Author's Note at the end of this column. It provides updated information on this topic.

blown fiberglass insulationFiberglass Insulation

Fiberglass insulation is a very hard thing to write about. I feel that just about everyone knows about this topic or how the product works. There just isn't any sizzle to the topic. I would hate to work for an advertising agency or public relations firm that had to write about this stuff on a weekly or monthly basis! What can you say about fiberglass to excite homeowners or contractors?

Common Questions

This fiberglass column and bulletin was born with a few basic questions on my part. I was wondering if flow-through ventilation for attics actually sucked air and heat from fiberglass attic insulation. I was told by the experts that batt insulation does not suffer from convective heat loss. Blown-in fiberglass, however, can suffer minimal heat loss in the very cold parts of the USA. Evidently this loss only begins to happen when attic temperatures drop below 32 degrees F.

I also wondered about the R-factors of batts vs. blown-in fiberglass. It didn't surprise me to find out that batts are better insulators. The primary reason for this is the tight tolerances found in the manufacturing process. Batts are uniform. The placement and quantity of the glass fibers can be controlled. This is not the case with blown-in fiberglass. The density of the material is controlled by the installer and settings in the machinery that blows the fiberglass.

Weight Problems

Fiberglass insulation is a very lightweight material. If you are blowing fiberglass and wish to obtain an R-factor of 49, you need to install a thickness of 20.5 inches. This thickness will produce a weight of .922 pounds per square foot if installed to the proper density.

This kind of weight will not overload average ceiling materials. The biggest concern you need to look for is proper installation of ceiling drywall. Many drywall hangers do not install the proper amount of nails or screws in ceilings. You need to install a minimum of five fasteners per four feet. This means one fastener at each edge and then spaced at one foot intervals. Make sure the screws, if used, do not tear through the drywall paper.

Fiberglass and Water

What happens if your roof leaks? Is your fiberglass attic insulation ruined? The answer is "No!" Fiberglass will retain its R-value after it dries. The moisture may cause a mildew problem, so it is imperative to accelerate the drying process.

Wall insulation that is saturated from flood waters must be removed. The flood waters contain massive amounts of bacteria which can foul the wall batts.

Is Fiberglass Corrosive?

Fiberglass does not contain any chemicals that will corrode metal pipes, truss plate connectors, exposed wires, etc. The dyes used to color the material are color fast and non-corrosive as well.

Author's Note:

Routinely I am blessed to hear from professionals and industry experts who share in-depth and updated information about a topic. You'll absolutely want to read the letter I received from the President of NAIMA (North American Insulation Manufacturers Association). It really helps clarify some of the points I just touched on in the insulation columns.

Column B165

Sewer Gas from a Sealed Sump Pump

sump pit backflow backup pump

Sewer Gas Sump Pump - Sewer gas can infiltrate a sump. There are several ways it happens.

Sewer Gas from a Sealed Sump Pump

"Sealed sumps such as yours must have an isolated three-inch vent pipe that leaves the sump and extends up through the roof of your home."

DEAR TIM: We've just finished renovating our bathroom and we have a problem with sewer gas smells. The house is a split-level on a septic system. This lower-level bathroom drains into a holding tank or sealed sump. When the tank reaches a certain level, the water and waste are pumped up to where it can flow into the septic system via gravity. Each time the pump operates, the new toilet bubbles and loses some water in the bowl. Within a few minutes, the room is filled with a stinky odor. What is the cause and how do we fix this? My beautiful new bathroom stinks. Kathryn C., Destin, FL

DEAR KATHRYN: I'm at a slight disadvantage since I can't actually see the sump installation, but my 20+ years of being a licensed master plumber tell me the sealed sump is not vented properly.

Do Sealed Sumps Require a Vent?

Sealed sumps such as yours must have an isolated three-inch vent pipe that leaves the sump and extends up through the roof of your home. This sump vent must not connect into the regular vent piping that serves the rest of your plumbing system.

CLICK or TAP HERE to get FREE BIDS from local plumbers who can stop sewer gas.

Why is the Vent Required?

This special vent is required for any number of reasons. For starters, each time waste and water enters the sump, some of the air in it must leave the sump as the added water and waste displaces this air. The air exits the sump via the vent pipe.

But when the sump level rises to a point and triggers the sump pump to turn on, the exact opposite happens. The water leaves the sump and air must re-enter the sump to take up the space that was occupied moments before by the sewage. If air doesn't enter the sump through a vent, the water leaving the sump via the pump creates a powerful vacuum.

Is the Sealed Sump Getting Air From my Toilet?

In fact, this is exactly what is happening per your description of events. The pump turns on and the toilet bubbles. The bubbling is the suction you are hearing as the air-starved sump gasps for air. Just before the bubbling or gurgling starts, it has sucked some water backward from the toilet bowl back towards the sump. This is why you have a lowered water level in the toilet bowl each time the sump operates.

How Does the Sewer Gas Get Into the Bathroom?

Once the water has been sucked from the toilet bowl, it creates an open pathway for the noxious sewer gases from the sump and septic system to enter your home.

As soon as the plumber comes back and installs the new vent line, your bathroom will start to smell as fresh as a field full of fragrant wildflowers!

Watch this video to see how Tim SOLVED a problem in minutes!