Construction Blueprints

Posted on October 6, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My husband and I want to remodel our kitchen. We would like to relocate the sink, install a larger window, new cabinets, etc. Do we really need "plans" or can we just tell our contractor what we want? E. G.

DEAR E. G.: You need plans. Every successful project has a plan. A plan can be a highly detailed set of blueprints or a simple set of written instructions accompanied by some simple sketches.

A well thought out and detailed plan verifies that what you want to do is possible. This is a vital step in the building process which is frequently overlooked. Countless projects have been started without a plan only to find out that what you or the contractor wanted to do is not possible. When this happens, you generally get stuck with paying for the mistake.

The plan also becomes the core of the contract between you and your contractor. It serves as the only viable way of communicating what you want to the contractor. Plans are a must, don't get stuck without one!

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Contractor Bid Differences

Posted on October 6, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I just received five bids for my remodeling job. There is a wide difference in prices and work to be done. Why so much confusion? T. T.

DEAR T. T.: You did not have clear and concise plans and specifications for the contractors. You probably talked to each contractor and told him what you wanted.

Each contractor has figured the job differently. There is no guarantee that each contractor is going to do the same amount of work as the others. Some may have bid doing too little, others bid doing too much. They may be using different materials. They possibly are using the wrong materials for the job.

This confusion can be avoided by having precise instructions for each contractor to follow. These instructions can be a basic set of plans and specifications.

These plans and specifications have specific information which contractors must follow. Each contractor must perform the same task or set of tasks.

When you have contractors bidding using specific instructions, the bids should be very close in price. This should make it very easy for you to determine who can give you the best value for your money.

Eliminate Delays with Job Schedules

Posted on October 6, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: We are getting ready to do a major remodeling of our kitchen. We want to eliminate delays so that we can use our kitchen again as soon as possible. What steps can we take to achieve this goal? Q. T.

DEAR Q. T.: In a nutshell, you must do extensive 'preplanning' and scheduling of materials shipments and workers to eliminate delays. It is possible to eliminate delays, however, your planning must be flawless.

The first step is to make sure that you have an excellent set of drawings for your project. Your contractor and his sub-contractors will rely on these documents heavily. If there is an error on the plans you will have a delay. I guarantee it.

Before any work begins, you must request from your contractor a very detailed schedule of how long each aspect of the job will take. There are many aspects to the job, so make sure that they are all listed. Make a separate list of all the materials you intend to use for your job. You must pre-select every item. Remember, some items will have to be ordered.

Ask each supplier how long it will take to obtain each item. Add a minimum of 3 days to whatever you are told. Request order confirmations from all suppliers, because , believe me, people forget to order things. Make repeated follow-up phone calls to insure that things are on schedule.

After you have all of this information, you must create a simple time line chart showing when each aspect of the job will occur. You must prepare this chart, because each sub-contractor and material supplier will need to see when his services or goods are required. Distribute a copy of this chart to all parties and ask them if it is reasonable. If they agree, cross your fingers and hope for the best. Remember, once the project is underway, make frequent reminder calls to all suppliers and workers to keep your project fresh in their minds.

Adding to a House Book No builder or designer's library should be without Adding to a House written by Philip Wenz. Here is the ideal book for designers and builders who understand basic construction but have not had access to a single source of information that covers the entire process of planning, designing and building an addition. Adding to a House is also perfect for home owners who intend to contract the work out and want to understand the process so they can make intelligent decisions and work effectively with people they hire. This book will help you avoid costly mistakes, make sure no potential problems are overlooked and handle tricky construction details. By following the advice in this book designers, builders and home owners will be able to create an addition that solves space problems and increase the value of a house. This book is published by Taunton Press, one of my favorite book publishers, and has wonderful color photographs and easily understood illustrations.

Permits Don’t Mean Quality Work

Posted on October 6, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I am getting ready to remodel my basement. My contractor has told me that a building permit is not necessary for this type of job. I feel uneasy about doing the job without a permit. Will the building inspector make sure that I get a quality job? P. Y.

DEAR P. Y.: Your instincts are right on target. Generally speaking, a building permit is required for most remodeling jobs. Based upon the description of your job there is no doubt in my mind that a permit would be required. Make sure your contractor obtains a permit.

However, do not rely upon the building inspector to be the judge of the overall quality of your project. Usually, the building inspectors are charged with the responsibility of enforcing the minimum standards of the building code. Often, certain aspects of a job can be installed per code and, believe it or not, be of very poor quality.

If you have questions regarding quality standards and the building code, request to be present when your building inspector shows up for routine inspections. The inspector will in most cases answer your questions. After all, he or she inspects many jobs and sees different levels of craftsmanship on a daily basis. Don't hesitate to ask his or her opinion.

AWOL Builder

Posted on October 6, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My builder has deserted me. There are several things to finish on my job. However, even though I am holding back $2,750.00, I can't get him back to finish. Why would he not want to collect the money that I still have? U. A.

DEAR U. A.: Based upon the list of items you described which need to be completed, I feel I know the answer to your problem. Believe it or not, the value of the work which remains to be completed is probably in excess of $6,000.00. If your builder does not return to finish, it appears that he will have gotten more money from you than he deserves.

This is a common problem. It can be avoided very simply. You must only advance money to your builder for actual work completed. You probably would not be in this situation had you obtained a detailed cost breakdown at the beginning of your job.

Job Scheduling Made Easy

Posted on October 6, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My project is half completed. No one has shown for a week to work. I called the contractor and I am getting the run-around. How could I have avoided this? M. O.

DEAR M. O.: Your contractor could possibly have a valid excuse. However, he should tell you what his problem is without you having to ask. Most probably, he is experiencing a scheduling delay dealing with either labor and or materials.

You can minimize delays on your project by requesting a schedule from your contractor at the beginning of your job. This schedule shows when each task will start and finish. It should show when special order items must be ordered. This is important because often they must be ordered weeks in advance.

The schedule also is helpful to sub-contractors. Your contractor can see that each sub gets a schedule. They can see when they are expected to work on your job. This allows them to adjust their schedules so that they can be at your job when needed.

Related Column: Scheduling Finish Work

Roof Deck Repair Work – What’s Fair?

Posted on October 6, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: The roofer installing a new roof on my house has discovered rotten wood. This comes as a surprise. He has quoted what appears to be an excessive price to install new wood. How do I determine if it is a fair price? J. K.

DEAR J. K.: First, you must verify if, in fact, you have rotten wood and how much. If you can not see the wood yourself, ask the roofer to take an instant photograph of the damage for you to see.

Ask the roofer for a breakdown of the added cost to remove and install the wood. This breakdown should show the quantity of wood being replaced, its cost, the amount of time it will take in man-hours, and the hourly rate per man-hour he intends to charge. It should also show any overhead and profit, as a separate item, that he is charging.

Using this breakdown, you can monitor this extra activity. You can see how long it takes and how much lumber was in fact used. The breakdown will enable you to see if you are being treated fairly.

You can address this situation in the bidding stage of your project. Ask the bidders to quote how much they will charge per square foot to install new wood, in the event they discover rotten wood. This is the best way.

You can see in the bidding stage, who offers the better value. Also, in the event that you do have rotten wood, you simply have to calculate the square footage which has to be replaced to determine your extra cost.

Ceramic Tile Repair Alternative

Posted on October 6, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My 75 year old house has a ceramic tile fireplace surround and hearth. The tile is original and quite unique. The surround is in good shape, however the hearth has loose and cracked tiles. I'm thinking about replacing the hearth tiles with new tile. Because I have been unable to locate matching tile, what suggestions do you have? K. L.

DEAR K. L.: My suggestion is simple. Don't replace the hearth tiles!! From your description of the tile, it sounds as if you have Rookwood Tile. This tile was manufactured in Cincinnati, Ohio, at the turn of the century. It adds value and character to your home. I think that the removal of the hearth tiles would be a mistake.

Because the new tile you install probably will be different in size, color, texture, etc., your installation will look like a patch job. I doubt that you will be satisfied with the final results.

I have an alternative suggestion which will yield very satisfactory results. However, you must employ the services of a very good artist. First, you must reapply the loose tiles. Prior to grouting the tiles, carefully clean out the crevices of the cracked tiles. When you grout the newly applied tiles, fill the cracked tiles as well. Work with the grout so that the cracks are filled completely flush and are smooth. Now, it is time to create the illusion.

Restore the "clean" to your grout. Just go to STAIN-SOLVER to see the beautiful, quick results.

Believe it or not, a good artist can camouflage the cracks. By blending the right paints with the proper gloss, he or she can make the cracks 'disappear'. Remember, you must properly fill the cracked tiles to successfully create this illusion.

Plaster Ceiling vs. Gravity

Posted on October 6, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I live in a 70 year old home. The plaster ceiling in my living room fell to the floor without warning. It ruined my furniture and floor. What caused this to happen and how can I check to see if my other ceilings are in danger of falling? G. H.

DEAR G. H.: There can be many reasons as to why your ceiling fell to the floor. Water damage, vibration, house settlement, structural member failure, etc. are among several of the possibilities. However, I think the most common cause of this type of failure is seasonal expansion and contraction of the wood framing members of your ceiling and the wooden lath boards which are nailed to the ceiling joists.

The plaster is attached to the ceiling joists by means of thin pieces of wood called lath. These lath boards are nailed to the ceiling joists with approximately a 3/8" space between them. When the plaster is applied to this wood lath system it oozes thru the spaces and spreads out on the top side of the lath boards.

When the plaster dries, it is 'locked' into the wood lath system. This system works very well as long as nothing moves. However, the wood lath expands and contracts at a different rate than plaster. In the summer months, the wood has a tendency to expand because it picks up moisture from the humid air. The wood lath contracts in the winter months when the air is drier.

This movement between the two materials causes the plaster to crack where it oozes thru the wood lath strips. When it cracks in enough locations, the weight of the plaster causes it to completely detach itself from the wood lath and fall to the floor, often with catastrophic results.

You can check the other ceilings in your house for this problem. Examine the ceilings and look for cracks. Using your hand push lightly against the crack. If the plaster moves up and down, it has detached from the wood lath and may be in danger of falling. Be sure to wear safety glasses or goggles when doing this, because small particles of plaster can fall into your eyes.

Noisy PVC Plumbing Drain Pipes – Cast Iron Solution

Posted on October 6, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: We just moved into a 15 year old home. Every time we flush the second floor toilet, we hear water running down our living room wall. The wall is never wet and I can find no leaks in the basement. What is happening to the water? B. B.

DEAR B. B.: Relax, the water is going down the plumbing stack and on its way to the sewer. Since you do not see any evidence of a leak, your description of the problem leads me to believe that your plumbing drainage system is constructed of PVC plastic piping.

PVC piping is notorious for sound transmission. It's low density plastic makeup makes it very noisy. Often you can hear a small amount of water trickling down the pipe. You can identify this type of pipe very easily. It is non-metallic, white, and often has labeling imprinted on the pipe which states that it is PVC.

You can solve your noise problem with a little bit of work. You have basically two choices. If the piping is PVC, you can replace it with cast iron piping. Due to its dense structure, cast iron piping transmits very little noise. This is one reason why you rarely hear water rushing down the walls of older houses. Cast iron drain piping was the material of choice 80 to 100 years ago.

This choice will probably be expensive due to the fact that you will be removing existing drainage piping and replacing it with new piping. Also, in most cities and states, work of this scope requires the services of a licensed master plumber to perform the installation.

Installing cast iron in a new house or a remodeled bath is not a budget breaker. Often it can be added to a house for only a $150 per bathroom. Remember, only the pipes that carry water need to be cast iron. All vent pipes that deliver air to the plumbing system can still be PVC.

The other alternative is to expose the piping and insulate it with fiberglass sound batts. Be sure to wrap the entire pipe, starting at the base of the toilet and continue until the pipe enters the basement. Then fill the rest of the wall and ceiling cavity with sound batt insulation.

When you have finished, flush the toilet before patching the wall. If you still hear the water, locate the source of the noise and add more insulation.

Expert Advice For Your Home