Roof Plywood Swelling – A Case Of The Bumps

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: We recently had a new home built. Within the past few months a problem has developed with the roof. There are distinct bulges and it appears that you can see the outline of many of the pieces of roof plywood. I know for a fact that these humps and bumps were not there when we moved in. The builder and the roofer admit no fault. I am not experiencing any leakage at this point but am worried. What happened and can it be corrected? P.J.

DEAR P. J.: Based upon your description of the problem, you need to get another individual into the loop. Your problem, in all likelihood, was caused by the carpenters who installed the roof plywood. The problem may have been magnified by the roofer and builder as well.

Wood products because of their cellular structure expand and contract with changes in moisture content. They experience the greatest dimensional change across the face of the grain of a piece of wood. Plywood products are giant pieces of wood exposing this face grain. Because of the manner in which plywood is constructed, this face grain points in both directions (width and length) on a piece of plywood. This means that you can experience severe expansion in both directions on a piece of plywood.

Plywood manufacturers are aware of this problem and have specific installation guidelines available to builders and remodelers. It is quite possible that these guidelines were not followed in your case. Two of the primary points in these guidelines speak to panel spacing and attic ventilation.

Because of the expansion problems that can occur with plywood, it is recommended that you plan for this expansion. There should be a minimum 1/8 inch gap around all edges of abutting pieces of plywood. This gap will allow the pieces of plywood to expand without buckling. My guess is that your plywood was installed without this required gap. When your plywood expanded, it puckered at the edges. In severe cases you will also see bulges within a single sheet, such as in your case.

Ventilation of attic spaces must also be adequate. The reason for this is really quite simple. In the summertime, the air in attics can get very hot (120 - 150 degrees F). As air gets hotter it has a greater capacity to hold water in the vapor state. This creates a problem for poorly ventilated attic spaces.

The air in these attics can hold, in the vapor state, a greater quantity of moisture than an equal volume of air on the outside of the roof. This extra moisture can be readily absorbed by the plywood which in turn causes the plywood to expand.

Adequate roof ventilation can minimize this buildup of water vapor by exchanging outside air with the air inside of your attic spaces. Advancements in ventilating technology allow for air in your attic spaces to be exchanged or moved on an almost continuous basis. Model building codes suggest minimum ventilating requirements.

It's very possible that your roof has inadequate ventilation. This responsibility should be shared by the builder and the roofer. There are many ways in which you can properly ventilate roof and attic spaces, all of which should be familiar to your roofer. Continuous roof vents, stationary roof vents, turbine vents and power attic ventilators are just a few. These ventilating systems work in conjunction with adequate soffit ventilation. Your builder is responsible for providing adequate soffit ventilation.

Call your builder and have him fix the buckled plywood. Also, have him prove to you that your attic space is adequately ventilated.

Drywall Finish Problems

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I have a strange problem. During different times of day and at night, you can see strange shadowing on my new drywall walls. When I slide my hand over these areas they feel smooth, yet they appear uneven. This problem comes and goes with the changing seasons. Is there something wrong or should I schedule a visit to the eye doctor, as my wife suggests? R. S.

DEAR R. S.: There is no need to go to the eye doctor. However, I do suggest that you schedule an appointment for your wife! Your photographs clearly show to me that you are a victim of 'joint banding' or 'telegraphing', as it is commonly referred to in the trade. To make matters worse, your walls were painted with a gloss paint which magnifies the problem.

In order for me to explain just what is happening, I had to dust off my high school physics book. The root of your problem lies in light reflection. The light bouncing from your drywall is not doing so in a uniform manner. This is caused by several things.

While the surface of the drywall appears smooth to the touch, it is in fact comprised of two entirely different surfaces. The drywall paper itself has a completely different texture than the joint compound used to fill the joints and cover the nails and screws. Not only that, the paper and the joint compounds can absorb liquids unevenly. Herein lies part of the problem.

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When your painter applied the paint, the paint film was not able to adequately disguise these different textures. When light hits these surfaces at a low angle (morning and afternoon), it reflects differently from the paper and the joint compound areas. Because the paper has a slightly rougher texture than the joint compound, the light rays from the sun are scattered by the rough texture. The light bounces more uniformly from the smoother joint compound areas of the wall surface.
This problem comes and goes with the changes in seasons, because the angle of the sun changes in the sky. Your problem is evident at night because of the recessed lights in your ceiling. These lights cast direct light onto the wall at a low angle.

You can solve the problem very easily. All that has to be done is to create a uniform texture on the drywall surface that absorbs liquids at a uniform rate. Ordinary paints do not have this ability, for the most part.

Fortunately, there is a very simple way to enable the light to bounce uniformly from your walls. There are special paints which can be applied to the drywall that will perform this task. These paints contain special compounds which seal the paper and the joint compound so that they absorb subsequent coats of paint at a uniform rate. These paints also contain lots of small solid particles that fill the uneven texture of the paper to make a uniform surface.

Many of these paints are very affordable. Almost all of them are both easy to apply and environmentally friendly. They can also be applied to your walls, even though they have already been painted. Many of them have rapid drying times which allows you to apply the finish coat of paint the same day.

One final tip, try to use flat wall paints whenever possible. These paints, generally speaking, when viewed under a microscope, have a rougher texture than glossy paints. This rough texture enables them to trap the light rays and scatter them as they leave the surface of the wall. This scattering effect can often hide very small imperfections which would otherwise be visible had you used a glossy paint.

Concrete, Snow and Ice

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: Winter is fast approaching. Within the past month, I had a new concrete driveway and sidewalk installed. I am concerned about surface scaling caused by deicing salts and freezing temperatures. Is my new concrete at risk and what, if anything, can be done to minimize the damage caused by salt and ice? A. L.

DEAR A. L.: Many homeowners ask this same question. Because of the relatively high initial expense of installing concrete, homeowners want their driveways and sidewalks to last as long as possible. Virtually everyone knows that deicing salts and freezing temperatures can damage concrete - concrete that has not been ordered, placed, finished and cured properly that is.

Your new driveway is extremely susceptible to damage in its first year. Only use sand for traction. Concrete, contrary to popular belief, is not a totally 'solid' object. It contains microscopic passageways. These passageways are created during the initial crystallization process as concrete transforms from the liquid to the solid state. These tunnels are created as the needles of the interlocking cement paste crystals grow.

Water cannot be compressed. When water freezes and turns into ice, its volume expands by about nine percent. If there is not sufficient room within the passageways to accommodate this expansion, the ice can begin to break the needles of the interlocking cement paste crystals. Your freshly poured concrete already has a high water content. Although it appears dry, there is quite possibly a large quantity of free water still within the crystal structure.

Deicing salts can also cause similar problems. The presence of salts in concrete can create high internal pressures. Deicing salts melt snow and ice and create a salty brine which is absorbed into concrete. As the temperature drops and ice crystals begin to form, the concentration of the unfrozen salt brine begins to increase. This brine actually attracts water creating a pressure difference within the network of cement paste crystals. This pressure can and does fracture some of the crystals.

Fortunately, there are things that can be done to minimize the damage from these forces. When concrete is mixed, additives can be included which create very small air bubbles within the concrete as it dries. These air bubbles provide a place for the expanding ice crystals to relieve their pressure. Residential concrete should have an air content of five to seven percent.

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Concrete strength is a function of the amount of cement powder that is added to the mix. This strength is often measured in pounds per square inch or PSI. Residential concrete subjected to freezing or deicing salts should attain a minimum strength of 4,000 PSI. You can order concrete with higher PSI strengths. The concrete can only attain this strength if it is properly cured. A liquid curing compound should be applied to your concrete as soon as the final finish has been applied.

When finishing or placing concrete, never add extra water to the mix. Also, do not sprinkle water on top of the concrete as it is being finished. Never finish concrete that has standing water on the surface.

These practices dilute the amount of cement paste at the surface of the concrete. With less cement, there are fewer crystals to hold things together.

You can also apply special sealants to the concrete which minimize the absorption of water or salt brine. Many of these sealants are highly effective and can often help to protect concrete which has been improperly installed. These sealants should have the capability to breathe. Water vapor from the soil beneath the slabs must be able to evaporate into the air.

Allowances – The Financial Black Hole

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I have just received three quotations for a sizable remodeling project. All of the bids included allowances. What are allowances? What do they include? Is there an easy way to compare them? Help, I'm so confused! H. C.

DEAR H. C.: Be careful! You are about to be pulled into the black hole of bidding! Allowances can easily create confusion. Many homeowners have suffered financial setbacks as a result of this confusion.

Allowances in bid quotations are often used to create a budget number for an item or task which has yet to be defined. It is important to note that the number which is used is often an average or arbitrary number.

Allowances must be carefully spelled out as to what they do and do not include. For example, does an allowance figure include sales tax and delivery charges? How about profit and overhead for the contractor? Special kits or optional items need to addressed. For example, a homeowner may have a $250.00 allowance for a bathtub. However, is the cost of the waste and overflow (drain) assembly part of the allowance or not? It's a good idea to determine if labor costs are a part of an allowance number.

The pricing strategy used in determining the allowance cost of an item can also be a problem area. Builders and contractors often receive special pricing from suppliers when they purchase items. Determine if the allowance number is based upon this price or the retail cost. Often, a homeowner can obtain more competitive pricing if they request that allowances be based upon the contractor's cost of goods. Contractors then include any markup on these materials as a part of their base bid. If they really want your job, they may lower their markup on these items to make their quotation more attractive to you.

Many homeowners have experienced frustration when confronted with allowances. The common cause of this frustration is artificially low allowance numbers. For example, a contractor may quote a kitchen job with a cabinet allowance of $4,000.00. You sign the contract and the job begins. After visiting several cabinet shops, you determine that the lowest quality cabinets cost $7,000. If you don't happen to have any extra money, you have got a major problem.

The best strategy to avoid these problems is to eliminate allowances from your jobs. This is really not that hard to do. The trick is to make product selections before your job goes out for bid. Investing this time during the planning process will reap large rewards. Each contractor will know exactly what you want. He or she will be able to calculate the proper cost and the amount of time required to install the items you have selected. The bids will, in reality, be a comparison of 'apples to apples'.

The preselection of items during the planning stage offers another advantage. Items which need to be special ordered will be identified at the beginning of job. Professional contractors will then be able to order these items in sufficient time so as to minimize project delays.

Allowances can't always be totally eliminated, however. In these cases, make sure that each contractor uses the same arbitrary number and the same conditions in his quotation. This will allow you to more easily determine which contractor is the low, middle, and high bid. Allowing contractors to use their own allowance numbers can create a financial nightmare for you.

Front Door Locksets and Handles

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I'm getting ready to install a new front door. I went shopping for a fancy door knob and handle lockset. However, once in the store, I was overwhelmed and confused by the different types of locksets. Are there any clear cut advantages between the different types? If you don't mind my asking, what type do you have on your own home? S. J.

DEAR S. J.: It doesn't surprise me that you were confused by the different types of residential locksets that are currently available. Many of the locksets look identical or similar, however there are vast differences between them.

Residential locksets, for the most part, fall into two different classifications: mortise or cylindrical. The advantages and disadvantages of each type are rooted in the way each lockset is constructed and installed.

front door locksets

Mortise locksets derive their name from the mortise you must create in a door in order to install the lockset. A mortise is a deep cavity, usually rectangular, which is created in the edge of a door. The successful creation of this cavity can often only be achieved with specialized tools and skill. Once created, you can then install the lockset case which is filled with levers, cams, and springs.

One advantage of a mortise lockset is the ability to operate the door latch and the deadbolt by inserting a key into just one slot. By turning the key just 90 degrees past a full turn you can unlock both the latch and the deadbolt. Often, exterior mortise locksets have massive 1 inch throw deadbolt locks that are an integral part of the lockset. Newer models offer a special interior emergency release feature which allows you to operate the deadbolt and door latch simultaneously in the event of a fire or other emergency.

Highly polished solid brass knobs, backplates, thumblatches, etc. are common. It is even possible to obtain a lifetime guarantee on some polished brass finishes. These locksets, as you might imagine, can be quite expensive. Also, they require a significant investment in time to properly install. However, mortise locksets, in my opinion, offer the ultimate in security, design, and ruggedness.

Cylindrical locksets, on the other hand, offer ease of installation, wide selection of styles and finishes, and affordability. The cylindrical lockset gets its name from the actual shape of the lockset mechanism and the cylinder into which the key fits. The installation of this type of lockset is achieved by drilling two simple holes. A large hole is drilled on the face of the door for the lockset mechanism, while a smaller hole is drilled in the edge of the door for the latch. Often you can purchase doors with the holes pre-drilled.

You have a wide range of durability available when purchasing cylindrical locksets. These locksets frequently are available in three categories: residential, light commercial, and heavy duty, all of which can be installed in residential doors. Rarely, if ever, do these locksets have an integral deadbolt lock.

If you choose to install a standard cylindrical lockset and want a deadbolt lock as well, you often must drill two additional holes. Locking and unlocking these mechanisms requires that you insert the key into an additional key slot. What's worse, if you don't plan ahead and buy the same brand locks, you may have to use two different keys.

front door locksets

front door locksets

You can obtain high quality locksets either way you go. Personally, I have both. My front door features a classic solid brass thumblatch mortise lockset, while the other doors in my house have cylindrical locks. I am satisfied with the performance of both. Plus, one key operates all doors!

Caulks

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I need some help with caulks. There are many different types available. How are the silicone caulks different from the acrylic latex caulks. Are they both paintable? Also, I purchased a clear acrylic latex caulk, but it came out of the tube white. Was the caulk in the tube out of date, or was it defective? One last thing, is there a caulk available to fill a driveway crack? M. W.

DEAR M. W.: Caulks have experienced a significant transformation during the past 45 years. Linseed and oil based caulks were used on a widespread basis up until the 1950's. During the 60's and 70's acrylic latex and silicone caulks began to appear. Because caulks need to stick to things, they are closely related, chemically speaking, to adhesives. In fact, I'll bet that you have seen adhesive caulks at your local stores.

Caulks

In as much as caulks are used to fill cracks between things that frequently move, it is important for them to have a high degree of flexibility. The older oil based caulks almost always became brittle with age. Acrylic latex and silicone caulks are formulated so that they will remain flexible for many years.

100 percent silicone caulk is made by reducing silica sand into a basic silicone oil polymer. In order to give the caulk body, fillers such as mica (a mineral) and clay are added. These caulks work best when used on non-porous objects such as metals and glass. The silicone oil makes it virtually impossible for paints to adhere to 100 percent silicone caulk. This oil tends to bleed slowly out of the caulk for many years.

100 percent silicone caulks require moisture from the air in order to cure. If you live in a dry climate, you will notice that these caulks take a longer time to dry. As the silicone caulk cures it emits acetic acid, one of the primary ingredients of vinegar. These fumes can irritate your eyes and nose.

Acrylic latex caulks are comprised of acrylic polymers, latex, water, and fillers. They bond very well to porous materials such as wood, masonry, plaster, and drywall. These caulks cure, or dry, as the water in them evaporates. Acrylic polymers and latex have excellent flexibility. They also retain this flexibility for long periods of time. Also, paints adhere well to the fillers that are present in these caulks.

Some of your confusion may arise from acrylic latex caulks that contain silicone or 'paintable' silicones. Some acrylic latex caulks contain small amounts of silicone. The silicone is added to improve their flexibility. The paintable water based silicone caulks often contain high amounts of fillers which allow paint to adhere to them. However, the high filler content tends to have an adverse affect on the overall performance of the caulk.

Caulks

You and I have shared a similar experience. When I first used a clear acrylic latex caulk, I thought the manufacturer had made a mistake. I never believed that the white caulk would dry clear. I was wrong. The white color in the caulk is caused by the presence of latex. The latex in the caulk is derived chemically. It is similar in nature to the milky colored fluid produced from plants belonging to the milkweed family. As the water evaporates from the latex the structure of the caulk changes so that the caulk becomes transparent. Light waves travel directly through the caulk.

There are caulks available to suit just about any purpose. You can purchase caulks that look like brick mortar, blacktop, and concrete. Special low temperature caulks are available that adhere to cold, damp surfaces. Caulks are made that seal aluminum gutter joints which commonly leak due to expansion and contraction caused by temperature changes. There is a caulk for just about any need.

Cellulose vs. Fiberglass

Posted on by Tim Carter
Be sure to read the special Author's Note at the end of this column. It provides updated information on this topic.

DEAR TIM: I would like to upgrade my attic insulation. However, I understand that fiberglass insulation is now considered a suspected carcinogen. Cellulose insulation, I've been told, possibly is a fire hazard. Can you help with this dilemma? Also, are there any factors that affect the R-values of each material? C.T.

DEAR C. T.: The information you heard about concerning fiberglass being a suspected carcinogen is correct. In July of 1994, the federal government labeled fiberglass as a substance that quite possibly could be a carcinogen. However, the U. S. Department of Health and Human Services, in a letter to Congress, exclaimed that they felt that fiberglass does not pose a threat to persons in their daily lives.

The risk appears to be centered around the fact that when installing either blown or batt type fiberglass, small glass fibers become airborne. These fibers can then be inhaled into your lungs. This can in fact happen. Years ago, as an uninformed rookie, I installed fiberglass without using a facial mask. After working with the material for several hours, I could feel the fiberglass in my throat.

However, once installed, fiberglass is almost always covered with some material. Or, it is in an attic space where it can not be easily disturbed. This is why it does not pose a serious health threat to the average person.

Fiberglass manufacturers have responded to this concern. You can now purchase fiberglass batt insulation that has a combination plastic and kraft paper covering. The back side usually has small perforations in the plastic to prevent the buildup of water vapor within the insulation.

Cellulose insulation is made primarily from recycled newspaper. Yes, newspaper is very flammable. However, cellulose insulation is treated with either sodium borate, boric acid, or ammonium sulfate. These chemicals, which have been deemed safe for humans, make cellulose insulation fire retardant. These chemicals also repel rodents, insects, and mold.

However, I have a concern about quality control when the chemicals are applied to the ground up paper. What happens if the chemicals are not mixed correctly? What happens if not enough chemical is applied? Is it possible for there to be a malfunction at the factory and you receive a bad batch? How can you test for yourself that enough chemicals have been applied?

These chemicals apparently retain their ability to retard fires in the hot temperatures found in many attics. However, there have been instances when cellulose has indirectly caused a fire. This usually happens when either type insulation is installed in direct contact with an older style recessed lighting fixture. The insulation traps the heat created by the light bulb. This, in turn, causes the lighting fixture to overheat. Some modern recessed fixtures have thermostats within the fixture that turn the light off if it begins to overheat.

Settling of blown insulation can affect its long term R-value. R-value is the term used to measure the flow of heat through an object or material. A higher number indicates that the object or material has a higher insulating capability.

Most blown-in fiberglass and cellulose insulations settle, or compact, after installation. Cellulose seems to settle more than fiberglass. Some fiberglass manufacturers have developed newer loose fill fiberglass that evidently does not settle. Once it has settled, fiberglass has an R-value of 2.1 - 2.7 per inch, while cellulose has an R-value of approximately 3.0 per inch.

Loose fill blown fiberglass insulation has another slight problem. As the temperature difference between the living space and attic increases, the R-value of blown fiberglass diminishes. In extreme situations, such as the upper Midwest, this reduction in R-value approaches 50 percent.

This phenomena seems to occur as a result of thermal convection. The trapped air molecules in the insulation are pulled up through the insulation into the colder attic air. This problem has been successfully solved by installing fiberglass batt insulation over the top of loose fill or blown insulation.

The bottom line is that cellulose can burn, but fiberglass will not support combustion. Fiberglass may melt in an extreme fire, but will not add to the fire load. Choose your insulation wisely.

Author's Note:

Routinely I am blessed to hear from professionals and industry experts who share in-depth and updated information about a topic. You'll absolutely want to read the letter I received from the President of NAIMA (North American Insulation Manufacturers Association). It really helps clarify some of the points I just touched on in this column.

...

I received this very interesting email from E. G. who is a remodeling contractor. He related to me a frightening incident that happened on one of his jobs in 1997, in Champaign, Illinois:

"I just read your article comparing the virtues and vices of Fiberglass vs. Cellulose Insulation. Let me share with you an anecdote from my own personal experience.

A few years ago, I was remodeling a room in a client's home -- moving a wall, adding a skylight, stuff like that. I finished mudding the drywall about noon and headed home for the day. Two hours later, I got a call from the homeowner, telling me that the job would be delayed for awhile.

After I left, the electrician doing some work in the attic had set his trouble light down in the cellulose insulation. He then went down to his truck for a bite of lunch.

I'm sure you can tell where this is going: the "fire-retardant" cellulose insulation caught fire, and by the time the fire trucks arrived, a big hole was burned in the roof, and my lovely new work was ruined.

You say in your article that the fire hazard of cellulose insulation has been magnified. Perhaps it has. But having seen it with my own eyes, I can't trust the ground up newspaper insulation any more. For my money, it's fiberglass all the way. I've never heard of it catching fire."

Eric Gentry

Anti-Scald Tub and Shower Faucets

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My wife has requested that I install a new anti-scald tub and shower faucet. I told her that I could eliminate the possibility of scalding by simply turning down the temperature on the hot water heater. Will this work? Do the anti-scald valves really work, and if so, just how do they regulate the water temperature? P. G.

DEAR P. G.: Beware! Turning down the temperature on your hot water heater is not the answer. Installing an anti-scald valve is the best way to minimize your chances of being scalded by hot water.

Hot water is a real danger. A person can receive a blistering second degree burn in several seconds as water temperatures approach 150 - 160 degrees F. It is a very real possibility for water to leave your water heater at or above this temperature, even though your water heater's thermostat is set at a much lower temperature.

The cold water which enters your hot water heater does so through a long tube called a dip tube. This tube extends almost to the bottom of the hot water heater. The thermostat for virtually all hot water heaters is located near the bottom of the tank. Herein lies the problem.

Water temperatures within hot water heaters are not always uniform. In fact, there can be a huge difference in temperature between the water at the top of the tank and the cold water entering the bottom of the tank. The temperature difference at the top of the tank, away from the thermostat, can be up to 30 degrees hotter than the thermostat setting. This means that if your thermostat is set at 120 degrees F, water can leave the tank at up to 150 degrees F.

Some anti-scald valves can protect you against this danger. However, it requires a specialized thermostatically controlled valve. The problem is, a large majority of anti-scald valves purchased by homeowners and plumbing contractors are not this type. The most popular anti-scald valve currently sold is a pressure balance type valve. Current plumbing codes allow either type to be installed.

The pressure balance valve controls water temperature by sensing pressure differences between the hot and cold water pipes that feed the valve. You can get scalded by pressure differences. If you happen to be showering and another individual somewhere else in the house turns on a hose or flushes a toilet, the pressure and volume may change in the cold water line leading to the shower faucet. This may cause the temperature of the water coming from the valve to increase, even though the hot water was not turned up.

However, pressure balancing valves have a slight drawback. When they are installed, they have a high temperature limit stop which allows you to set the maximum temperature of the water which comes from the shower head. This setting is based upon the temperature of the water leaving the hot water heater. If you make an adjustment on the thermostat of your hot water heater, either up or down, after you have installed the valve and adjusted it, the temperature of the water coming out of the shower or tub faucet will be directly affected. Remember, the pressure balance valves react to pressure, not temperature.

The ultimate tub and shower faucet is one that can adjust for both temperature and pressure differences. These valves can be expensive. They also have minor drawbacks as well. Once you have selected a water temperature, often it can't be readjusted unless you turn the valve completely off.

Granite and Marble Flooring

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I'm giving serious consideration to using granite and/or marble as a flooring material in an upcoming building project. Will they both perform equally? How about stain resistance, durability, and care? Are there any natural stone product alternatives that you might recommend? A.C.

DEAR A.C.: I must compliment you on your taste and choice of building materials. Both granite and marble are wonderful flooring materials. These materials have seen explosive growth during the past 5-10 years. Marble sales have increased approximately 400 percent during the past five years.

Believe it or not, during the past ten years, hard stone products have experienced an incredible 2,000 percent growth in sales. There is no doubt that homeowners have discovered the advantages that commercial builders have known for quite some time. Aside from flooring, homeowners are using marble and granite as countertops, back splashes, tub platforms and surrounds, and fireplace surrounds and hearths.

Both marble and granite are natural stone products. Recalling my college days, as a geology undergraduate, marble is a metamorphic rock. Limestone, when subjected to various high temperatures and pressures within the earth, recrystallizes into marble. For years, much of the fine marble used in building was quarried in Italy. However, fine marble is now quarried in Mexico, China, Spain, and the former Soviet Union.

Granite is a fine to coarse grained rock which often contains quartz, feldspar, and mica crystals. It can form as a result of igneous (volcanic) or metamorphic geologic activity. The presence of quartz in granite gives it incredible durability and hardness characteristics. Granite is almost always more durable than marble.

Because granite and marble are natural products, they exhibit a wide range of stain resistance. Marble is more porous than granite. Certain marbles can stain quite readily. Common household liquids such as orange juice, nail polish remover, shampoo, and even water can cause serious stains in certain marbles. Granite, on the other hand, is very stain resistant. Professional installers recommend the use of neutral pH breathable sealers for both marble and granite, once they have been installed. These sealers need to be reapplied on a regular basis, depending upon how much use or foot traffic that the marble or granite is exposed to.

If you choose to use marble for an entrance foyer, it might have to be professionally cleaned and resealed every 12 - 18 months. Marble used in bathrooms and kitchens should be cleaned and resealed every 9 - 12 months.

There are several alternative natural stone products that might interest you as well. Slate and terrazzo make beautiful and durable floors. Terrazzo is very unique. It is made by mixing different colored marble chips with colored cement and / or epoxy. This mixture is honed and polished to a mirror like surface. By using a variety of different colored marble chips, you can create virtually any colored floor or pattern. Terrazzo requires virtually the same care as natural marble flooring.

Slate is a unique flooring material. It is available in shades of green, brown, red, and mottled green. It is very durable, and when sealed it is virtually stain proof.

All of the stone products, except for terrazzo, are installed similar to ceramic tile. They are available in different sizes, commonly 12 x 12 inch squares. Slate often is available in random sizes that fit together in a pattern. The thickness of the materials varies, depending upon what you choose. However, most flooring pieces are either 1/4, 3/8, or 1/2 inch thick. Visit your local stone products center and see the wide variety of products that are available. I'm sure that you will not waste your time.

Column 056

Replacing Cabinets

Posted on by Tim Carter

replacing cabinetsDEAR TIM: My husband and I just got back from looking for new kitchen cabinets. We are so confused! We know what stock cabinets are, however, there doesn't seem to be a big difference between semi-custom and custom cabinets. What is the difference? Can you offer any suggestions regarding current trends? Also, is there a standard of quality that manufacturers must meet? J. T.

DEAR J.T.: Your confusion is very understandable. Many of my customers have returned from a day of cabinet shopping dazed and confused as well! A large part of the problem lies in the huge variety of styles, types of cabinet construction (frame vs. frameless), finishes, and accessory trim pieces. Do not underestimate the time it will take you to view all of the options that are available to you. Often it can take 2 - three days to visit different cabinet shops.

Semi-custom kitchen cabinets are factory-produced on assembly lines. Manufactures of these cabinets often allow you to select specific door styles, wood species, and stain finish types. These cabinets usually offer a wide variety of interior options such as cutlery trays, drawer dividers, towel racks, cookie sheet holders, trash can holders, etc. Often these cabinets are built using stock cabinet sizes. Separate cabinets are butted against one another in a typical installation. Some manufactures offer custom size possibilities.

Custom kitchen cabinets are made solely for your kitchen. They result from extremely specific measurements and detailed design criteria. They can be very personalized, down to exact drawer sizes for specific items. Often these cabinets are made by local fabricators who can produce furniture grade quality.

Custom cabinets offer a unique feature. A fabricator can assemble a single base cabinet or wall cabinet that is 6 - 8 feet long without seams. This cabinet can have a variety of doors, drawers, etc. depending upon your wants. Because it is one piece, installation time is minimal.

Current design trends appear to be leaning toward making kitchen cabinets look as close to furniture as possible. Some manufacturers offer a wide variety of accessory trim pieces such as crown molding, valances, cabinet legs, and highly customized appliance panels. These items, when professionally installed, can produce dramatic effects.

There is a minimum standard of quality which you should look for. This quality standard has been developed by the Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association (KCMA, www.kcma.org). The quality standard covers virtually every aspect of the cabinet's construction. Joint tightness, hinge, doors, rigidity, corner bracing, finishing details, and other details are checked in a series of more than 60 specific tests. These tests are conducted by independent testing laboratories approved by the KCMA.

Cabinets which pass these tests are eligible for the KCMA certification seal. Manufacturers must regularly provide cabinets for testing in order to continue to bear the KCMA certification seal.

You should pay particular attention to the finishing process and types of finish that your cabinets will receive. Remember that the KCMA standards, just like many standards, are minimum quality standards. Many normal foodstuffs, such as vinegar, fruit juices, olive oil, and mustard can possibly damage cabinet finishes that do not meet KCMA standards. Some detergents, alcohol, and water can also harm finishes. Ask detailed, specific questions regarding the number and types of finish coats that your cabinets will receive. Ask how thick the combined layers of finish are. Ask if the finish will dull or yellow with age. Remember, the finish takes the abuse, not the wood.