Aluminum Gutters – Seamless or Traditional

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: We are getting ready to build a new home. I've been disappointed with the performance of aluminum gutters in the past. Have there been any advancements? What can you tell me about seamless aluminum gutters? Some of my friends in the southeast and southwest don't use gutters. Is this a wise practice? I. T.

DEAR I. T.: As you might expect, there have been improvements in aluminum gutter systems in the past decade. These changes have affected both traditional and the so called seamless gutters. By the way, seamless gutters often have seams when they turn corners. Don't be fooled!

Your existing home probably has lighter weight aluminum gutters attached to the gutter or fascia board using long spikes and ferrules. Ferrules are metal tubes that the spikes pass through. They prevent the spikes from being driven too deep. This method of attachment is old technology. Normal expansion and contraction of the aluminum gutter is inhibited. It is not uncommon for the spikes to eventually loosen from repeated stress cycles.

You can purchase heavy gauge traditional aluminum gutters that attach to your roof system using a variety of hidden hangers. These hangers allow the gutters to expand and contract freely. The gutters are available in lengths up to 37 feet. This permits a seamless look on most houses. Two sizes are available: 5 inch and 6 inch. The 6 inch gutter is used when large volumes of rain water call for a greater capacity.

In need of gutters? Pick out the right ones with my Gutter & Downspout Installation / Repair Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

The thickness of the aluminum used to make the gutter is important. Long lasting, rigid aluminum gutters are often made using aluminum that measures .032 inch thick. Thinner material can sometimes bend or dent when a ladder is set against it.

If you choose to install a seamless style aluminum gutter, attempt to locate a design that uses a hidden attachment clip. Avoid the use of old fashioned spikes and ferrules. Also ask about the weight bearing capacity of the system. Some traditional systems can support up to 50 pounds per lineal foot.

Be sure to ask about the exterior painted finish of the gutter material. There can be big differences. The flat aluminum coil stock used to make seamless gutters does not always have as good a finish as the factory formed traditional gutters. Be sure to read the warranty, especially if you are looking for a long lasting gutter.

Your gutterless friends may want to rethink their situation. Some parts of the country have well drained soil that allows rain water to quickly dissipate. Other parts of the country get small amounts of rainfall. In either case, gutters can help control erosion, wood rot on the lower portions of houses, and work in conjunction with an underground irrigation setup.

Efflorescence growing in the mortar of a brick fireplace. PHOTO CREDIT: Michael Hannum

Efflorescence growing in the mortar of a brick fireplace. PHOTO CREDIT: Michael Hannum

Houses that do not have gutters can sometimes suffer from erosion problems in heavy rains. In addition, the constant splashing of water against wood siding or stucco can lead to wood rot or efflorescence on stucco. Water collected in gutters can be directed to plants and other vegetation using inexpensive plastic drain pipe. Why use city water when Mother Nature does it for free!

Plaster Wall Restoration

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My daughter purchased an older home with plaster walls. There are numerous cracks in the walls and ceiling. The plaster appears to be sound. Should she skim over the existing plaster? Will the cracks reappear? Should she use the ready mix compounds that are sold in the large buckets? Is this a DIY'r project we can tackle? N. A.

DEAR N. A.: Ahhhhhhhh! Your daughter is blessed to have old plaster in relatively good shape. It is, in my opinion, the premier wall finish material. Working as a team, you and your daughter will be able to restore the walls. It will take a moderate amount of effort. Hopefully, one or both of you has good hand eye coordination.

Let's talk first about the cracks in the plaster. My guess is that in many locations wall cracks extend from the corners of doorways, windows or arches. Ceiling cracks are often random in nature. You should be able to repair many of these cracks successfully. Some, however, may continue to plague you. Here is why.

Some of the wall cracks may be stress release points. Houses tend to develop joints much like our elbows and knees. Seasonal changes in humidity can cause a house to flex at these joints as the framing lumber behind the walls and ceilings expands and contracts. The only defense when dealing with these cracks is to attempt to maintain as constant a level of humidity as possible within the house. This is often tough to accomplish.

There are several ways you can tackle the crack repair process. One method I have used with great success is to treat the cracks like new drywall seams. You tape over them using an adhesive fiberglass mesh tape or a paper tape. Successive layers of joint and topping compound disguise the repair. A final skim coat over the entire wall fills dimples, hairline cracks, and other imperfections.

Another method is to apply large sheets of thin fiberglass mesh over the entire wall or ceiling. The entire surface is then skim coated with joint compounds which hide the cracks and the mesh.

The ready mixed joint compounds may not be the best material to use. They are simply buckets of glue and filler. You can buy dry powdered setting type joint compounds that mix readily with water. These compounds contain a mixture of glue, filler, and gypsum. The presence of gypsum allows them to harden much like concrete. Same day wall repairs from start to finish are possible with these magical materials.

The ready mixed joint compounds do not always bond firmly to old plaster. In addition, they produce a somewhat softer final surface which may scratch or ding more easily. The setting type joint compounds can be mixed with water and acrylic bonding liquids. This permits them to readily stick to the old plaster.

If you want to avoid dust storms during the final stages of your project, why not buff the walls with a rubber float? These tools are used to grout ceramic tile. If you slightly dampen the dried joint compound and glide the float over the wall surface, you can create a smooth finish that rivals that of the original master who installed the plaster.

 

Aromatic Cedar Closets and Products

Posted on by Tim Carter
aromatic cedar

Aromatic Cedar | You can get long planks of aromatic cedar, blocks like this, or cedar flakeboard. CLICK or TAP HERE or the image to see it all.

Aromatic Cedar Closets - They're Dreamy

DEAR TIM: We're building a new house. I would like to reproduce an old fashioned cedar closet like the one in my parent's home. Can you just buy regular cedarwood or should I use those cedar flakeboard panels? Does the cedar wood really kill moths? Is there a way to restore the aroma in my parent's closet? Are there alternative products? C. E.

DEAR C. E.: Your question brings back memories of my mother's fragrant cedar chest. As a child, I would sneak into her room to lift the lid. The aromatic cedar aroma was intoxicating!

Related Links:

Cedar Closet Construction Tips

Restoring Aged Cedar - Bring Back the Pleasant Aroma!

When Did Cedar Closets Become Popular and What Causes the Aroma?

Cedar closets became very popular at the turn of the century as closets became a more standard feature in residential construction. Prior to that, clothes storage was usually achieved in free-standing armoires. The cedar aroma is produced by the evaporation of the natural oils contained in the cedar lumber.

What Species of Cedar Creates the Pleasant Aroma?

The aromatic cedar that creates the intoxicating aroma is Eastern Red Cedar. This cedar species is found predominately in and about the southern Appalachian Mountains. Aromatic cedar flakeboard is a good alternative should you decide not to use the red cedar planking to match your parent's closet. The flakeboard will produce the same strong aromatic scent as the solid wood planks.

Do not buy western red cedar. It will not produce a strong fragrance that is necessary to protect your clothing.

Why Should I have Cedar Closets in my Home?

The aromatic cedar can protect the investment you have made in your fine clothing. Adult moths like to make nests in fabrics, especially woolen ones. The adult moths do not damage or eat the fabric. The damage is done by their youngin's. Adult moths will not reproduce in an area permeated by a strong cedar aroma.

CLICK or TAP HERE to get FREE QUOTES from local handymen who can transform a closet into a CEDAR CLOSET in hours.

Should Cedar Closets Have Special Doors?

Tightly sealed cedar closets or chests will maintain a strong cedar scent for many years. You can extract top performance from your new cedar closet by doing several simple things. Make sure that your builder installs an inexpensive exterior door to your closet. These doors have excellent weather stripping which will minimize air infiltration. Caulk or fill any gaps between the drywall and floor before you install the cedar lining.

Why Do Cedar Closets Lose Their Aroma?

Your parent's cedar closet has lost its strong aroma because of air infiltration or dirt buildup. The cedar's red cast has probably turned to brown.

What Can Be Done to Restore the Pleasant Cedar Smell?

Sand the surface of the cedar with fine sandpaper to restore the cedar aroma. This will open the wood pores allowing the natural cedar oils to once again evaporate. In addition, you can purchase natural cedar oil extract. This oil is applied to the sanded cedar. It readily soaks into the bare wood revitalizing the cedar. Never, ever varnish, shellac, or seal cedar! This will stop the evaporation process immediately.

renew cedar oil

Renew Cedar Closet Smell | CLICK or TAP HERE to get fantastic cedar oil that will renew the smell in your cedar closet or chest.

Can You Create the Cedar Aroma in Drawers?

Aromatic cedar products are also available if you want to create the fragrance within an existing closet or a chest of drawers. You can purchase small aromatic cedar balls or blocks of wood to use in place of mothballs. In addition, you can purchase small bags of cedar shavings that look much like teabags. These can be placed in and around clothes. Finally, for those of us who have smelly shoes, you can even purchase cedar shoe trees to absorb offensive odors.

Can You Purchase Other Cedar Accessories?

Yes, you can buy

CLICK or TAP HERE for a full listing of all the Eastern Red Cedar products you can have in your home in just days.

CLICK or TAP HERE to get FREE QUOTES from local handymen who can transform a closet into a CEDAR CLOSET in hours.

Stamped and Colored Concrete

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: Our builder is trying to convince us to use colored stamped concrete for our front walk. I'm worried that the textured finish will not last. Is stamped concrete as good as regular concrete? What can be done to insure a long lasting job? Is it possible to colorize regular concrete after it is poured? D. A.

DEAR D. A.: I think I can significantly reduce your anxiety level about pattern stamped concrete. It is a fantastic technique to improve the visual characteristics of otherwise bland concrete. Concrete in and of itself is a premier building material. Adding color and texture to it simply enhances its appeal to me.

Pattern stamping is not really new. It has been done for years in one form or another. As a child, I would often see the name stamp of the concrete contractor who installed the sidewalks in my neighborhood. Steep concrete roadways were often stamped with horizontal lines to increase traction. The pattern stamped residential concrete your builder is using has been around for almost four decades.

The stamping processes available today can create over 90 different patterns. They include a wood boardwalk look, slate, cobblestone, brick, flagstone, ceramic tile, etc. When the installer blends different colors with the wet concrete the effect is dramatic. If you have visited theme parks or other attractions there is a good chance you have walked across stamped concrete thinking it was a natural stone product! Contractors who use newer molds and pattern stamps can create unbelievable results.

Want perfect concrete work? Find a pro by using my Concrete Work (Sidewalks, Driveways, Patios & Steps) Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

There is no reason why your front walk shouldn't last for many years. As long as your contractor follows all of the known industry standards for pouring concrete, your stamped walk should outlast you. I would suggest that you install 1/2 inch steel reinforcing bars on 24 inch centers in both directions of your walkway. Be sure this steel ends up in the middle of the 4 inch thick sidewalk. In addition, make sure that the concrete is ordered with a minimum compressive strength of 4,000 pounds per square inch. If you choose to install stamped concrete in your driveway, insist on a minimum thickness of 6 inches. Be sure the concrete is cured after it is installed.

Concrete shrinks when it dries. This shrinkage usually amounts to 1/16 inch for every ten feet you pour. This shrinkage produces internal stresses within the concrete. To prevent random cracking you must install control joints. These joints are saw cut lines often created the day after the pour. They should be cut to a minimum depth of one-fourth the thickness of the slab.

It is possible to colorize an existing slab. There are various chemical concrete stains that can be used. Often these contain muriatic acid and metallic salt compounds. The acid etches the concrete allowing the stain to penetrate. Because of differences in the texture and makeup of the existing concrete, it can be difficult to maintain uniform coloration. If you choose to stain existing concrete, you must pay close attention to manufacturer's instructions. Rich colors are possible, however, you will need to practice to achieve them on a consistent basis.

Screened Porches – Beating Bug Bites

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: The bugs are driving me crazy in my back yard. It is time for a screened enclosure. Is it possible to build an economical screened enclosure using readily available materials? What are your feelings concerning aluminum enclosures as opposed to wood? Do you think this is a project for an accomplished DIY'er? Do you have any tricks of the trade you will share? R.C.

DEAR R.C.: Every screened porch that I have built has relieved the bug agony you are now experiencing. This is a project, I believe, that can be successfully tackled by a serious DIY'er. You will need to have well thought out plans, proper zoning clearance, a building permit, and approximately 160 man/woman hours of time.

Screened porches

Think before you do anything. How many people will enjoy breezy mornings and evenings within this enclosure? Are you going to have a table and chairs? Use your existing living room or dining room as a possible template for sizing this new structure. To be on the safe side, set existing furniture out in your yard where the structure will be. Create a square or rectangular shape, measure, and start to draw!

After you have obtained permission from your governmental officials, it is time to build. Wooden screened porches often allow you to match the architectural details of older homes. This feature comes, however, with a price tag - sustained, periodic maintenance. Aluminum screened enclosures offer rapid erection capabilities, low maintenance, and numerous design possibilities. Aluminum structures, however, usually require professional installation services.

Building a screened enclosure is possible on a tight budget. There are several tricks you can use to accomplish this goal. Consider building the porch on top of a ground hugging wood deck instead of a concrete slab. Utilize ready made full panel screen doors for your walls. These doors can be installed side by side in between the support posts of the structure.

Use construction grade redwood for your support posts. This grade of lumber will give you many years of service if you prime and paint each post, including the top and bottom, before installation.

Construct a simple gable or hip roof for your porch. The rafters and roof sheathing will be visible from the inside of the porch. However, if you paint the underside of the roof a medium gray, it will look very acceptable. The angles created when building a hip roof will make for interesting conversation when your friends are sipping iced tea. Accept the challenge and try to construct this roof system.

There are several things you can do to minimize maintenance and maximize comfort. Prime and paint (stain) all wood BEFORE it is assembled. If you build the porch and then paint, numerous wood surfaces will be bare. Rain water will eventually locate this wood and cause paint failure and eventually rot. Be sure to plan ahead for the installation of electric outlets, overhead lights, and a paddle fan. Install these electric devices in accordance with the National Electric Code. Screened porches can become wet creating an increased shock hazard.

Creating a porch of your dreams requires an understanding of the elements, both in construction and climate. Better Homes and Gardens Porches and Sunrooms is a wonderful book to help you decide and plan a porch or sunroom that is right for you. In this book you will find chapter by chapter, evaluating and exploring you options, creating elements of style - porches and /or sunrooms, planning, and the basics of building. There is even a chapter on building taking you through the process point by point, including tips for choosing and working with building professionals.

House Wrap Will Save Money

Posted on by Tim Carter

house wrapped

DEAR TIM: I would like to keep my energy costs to a minimum in my new home. Do you think it is worthwhile to have my builder install a whole house wrap air barrier product? Do they work? Are there other advantages in using them? Can you share some installation tricks? L. O.

DEAR L. O.: I have used the house wrap products on all of my jobs. They are an extremely important feature that is often left out of many new homes. They will save you money on your heating and cooling costs. In addition, these whole house wrap products will protect the structure of the house in the event of water infiltration.

The idea of wrapping houses is not new. Many of the older homes that I rehabilitated early in my construction career had been wrapped with tar paper. The tar paper functioned primarily as a water barrier on wood frame houses. It probably helped to limit the amount of air that infiltrated as well. For some reason the use of tar paper was abandoned by many builders after World War II.

The modern house wraps are actually air retarders. Air infiltration can be a huge drain on utility costs. Air leaks into and out of houses in between gaps that are usually found where exterior walls sit on foundations and wooden subfloors. Air can also leak where sheets of plywood or wall sheathing abut one another. An average house has between 70 and 200 square inches of air leaks.

The air infiltration products do not block the flow of air entirely. To do so would be a big mistake. Water vapor from the inside of your house needs to be able to find its way to the exterior air. If the vapor were to become trapped, it could easily begin to cause moisture related rot problems. These building products resemble some modern fabrics - they repel liquid water but allow liquid vapor to pass freely.

All houses that are framed with lumber need protection. Brick veneer is not water proof. Wood, vinyl, and aluminum siding can develop leaks. Construction details around doors and windows are sometimes sub-standard. The whole house wrap products, when installed properly, create a very effective waterproof skin. Water that gets behind the exterior finish material of your house flows down the wrap and exits just below the top of your foundation or slab.

Installation of the whole house products requires attention to detail. These products need to be installed just like the old tar paper - start from the bottom and let subsequent pieces overlap the lower ones. All seams must be sealed with a special adhesive tape sold by the manufacturer. The wrap needs to be in place before doors and windows are installed. In fact, it should be installed prior to the placement of the second top wall plate that sits immediately below the roof rafters. By sandwiching the wrap between the double top wall plate, you virtually eliminate the entry of any soffit down drafts behind the house wrap. Be sure the house wrap extends over the top of the foundation at least 1 inch.

Some house wrap products can hide the location of wall studs. If you use such a product, be sure to align the outer wall stud markings on the house wrap with the studs. If this is too much trouble, consider using a translucent house wrap. In either case, the bricklayers and siding installers will thank you.

Brick Patios – Build One

Posted on by Tim Carter
clay paving brick patio next to plants

Clay Paving Brick | This patio was built with traditional clay brick pavers. You can get step-by-step installation instructions to create the EXACT SAME look you see in the photo here They could have been set in sand, but laying them in mortar creates a traditional look and feel. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter Copyright 2022

Clay Brick Patio - Forget About Using Concrete Brick

DEAR TIM: My husband and I are going to build a patio. We want an authentic brick patio. Is there a special brick we should use? What method of installation do you feel is the most permanent? Can you offer any brick laying tips? S. E.

DEAR S. E.: Now here is a subject close to home for me. If you can make it to my house this weekend, you can help me finish my lower brick patio. I've installed thousands of brick in patios, sidewalks and stairways around my current home and my previous residence. They make superb, decorative patio surfaces.

What is Clay Paving Brick?

Clay paving brick is a special brick made from fired clay. It needs to be sufficiently hard to resist years of foot and often motorized traffic. In addition, the brick must have a high skid or slip resistance. Look for a brick that has a rough or wire-cut surface. If you live in a climate that experiences cold weather, be sure to ask if the brick is graded for severe weather (SW). Do not purchase the brick without this guarantee.

What are the Brick Sizes?

Paving brick usually is available in two sizes. Both types are solid with no inner voids. Normally they are 4 inches wide and 8 inches long. I prefer to use the one that is only 1 and 1/2 inches thick. If you expect heavy vehicle traffic you may wish to use a paving brick that is 2 and 3/8 inches thick.

What is the Best Way to Install Clay Paving Brick?

The best way to install clay paving brick is to follow my step-by-step download PDF instructions. These include secret formulas for the best mortar, detailed instructions, illustrations, videos, links to the best tools, and many many tips.

You have several options with respect to installing the brick. You can use a flexible, semi-rigid, or a rigid base system. The flexible base consists of a bed of crushed gravel and sand. A semi-rigid base incorporates a layer of asphalt beneath the paving brick. I happen to prefer the rigid method. This involves mortaring the paving brick to a steel reinforced concrete slab.

PC1450 PDF cover page

This is the cover to my download step-by-step instructions. They're the BEST INSTRUCTIONS on the Internet. Of that there's no doubt. Look and see for yourself.

You begin this project by determining where the top surface of the patio will be. Excavate the ground to a depth of 8 inches. Install the necessary wooden or steel forms to create the shape of the patio. Use 1/2 inch plywood to make gentle or tight curves. The top of the forms should be 2 inches below the anticipated finish surface of the patio (assuming you are using the 1 1/2 inch thick brick).

Once the forms are set, you can install 2 inches of washed pea gravel. While not absolutely necessary, this gravel helps promote drainage beneath the concrete. Now it is time to place the 1/2-inch steel reinforcing bars. Create a gridwork by placing these every two feet in both directions. Place the steel on small pieces of brick so that the steel ends up at least 1.5 inches off the soil and preferably in the middle of the 4-inch-thick slab. Pour the concrete base using a mix with a minimum compressive strength of 4,000 pounds per square inch. Strike the surface of the concrete with a board to remove any high spots.

After the concrete hardens, it's time to lay brick. Begin by installing all of the edge brick first. The brick should be laid in a 1/2 inch thick bed of Portland cement mortar (3 parts sand to 1 part cement). Do not use standard bricklayer's mortar mix! Let the edge brick dry for 1 - 2 days. Stretch a string between the edge brick and begin filling in the center of the patio laying a course at a time. The space between each brick is filled after all the brick are laid. I use a grout bag that resembles a cake icing bag. Mix 1 part fine sand to 1 part cement for this purpose. Let the mixture flow from the bag until it overfills each joint. The mixture will get stiff within 15 - 20 minutes. Scrape off the excess and get ready to party!

I Need More Detailed Instructions - Where Can I Get Them?

Once again, I urge you to download my 13-page step-by-step instructions showing the two methods to install clay paving brick. They come with a satisfaction GUARANTEE.

satisfaction gif

 

DIY Plumbing

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: Do you know how to solder copper water pipes? I plan to install some new copper tubing which will replace old galvanized steel water lines. How do you successfully solder copper water lines? I'm afraid of burning my house down while using the torch. What can I do to minimize fire risks? A.M.

DEAR A.M.: Soldering copper pipe intimidates many homeowners. With a little knowledge and practice, you will get leak free joints just about every time. Not only that, if you follow some simple steps, we can keep the mileage low on your local fire department pumper trucks.

For you to solder copper tubing successfully, you will need the following tools and supplies: a tubing cutter, round wire fitting brushes, plumbers sand cloth, flux, flux brush, an acetylene or propane torch, lead free solder, and a few 5 gallon buckets. All of these items can be found at your local plumbing supply house.

Tubing cutters are simple tools that cleanly cut copper tubing to specific lengths. Use the plumber's sand cloth to clean each end of the pipe. You need to shine only about 1 inch at each end. The fitting brushes are rotated inside of the copper fittings to remove oxidation.

solder copperOpen the flux container. You will see a gelatin like substance that usually contains zinc chloride, ammonium chloride, and paraffin. Stir the flux well to mix it, especially if it has been sitting in a hot area. Use a small flux brush to apply a coating to the areas of both the pipe and fitting you have cleaned. Don't get the flux in your eyes or mouth!

The pipes and fittings must be dry for soldering to take place. If water or steam is in the pipes, you can't get the copper hot enough to melt and draw the liquid solder into the fitting. You can temporarily stop the flow of water if you roll up some bread and stick it in the pipe where water is flowing. The bread will eventually dissolve and not cause a problem within the water lines.

Once you have joined the pipe to the fitting, it is time to solder. Light the torch using a match or a flint striker. You should see a flame within a flame if your torch is adjusted correctly. The tip of the inner flame produces the hottest temperatures. Apply the torch to the pipe/fitting area so that the tip of the inner flame just touches the copper. The flux will immediately begin to boil.

Within about 10 - 20 seconds, the boiling flux will disappear. At this time, touch the solder to the intersection point of the pipe and fitting. Within 1 second, the solder should begin to melt. Immediately remove the torch. If the pipe and fitting are sufficiently hot, the solder will continue to melt and be drawn completely into the fitting. The pipe will usually retain enough heat to melt the solder for 10 to 15 seconds. However, you usually need to only apply solder for 3 - 5 seconds.

Using a propane or acetylene torch around wood framed houses is a recipe for disaster. Wood chips, paper insulation backing, etc. can ignite easily. Prior to starting this project fill your 5 gallon buckets with water. Better yet, purchase a portable fire extinguisher that is made to extinguish wood and paper fires.

You can also buy at the plumbing supply house non combustible flameproof fire shields. You can place these between the copper and any combustible product as you solder. If you can't locate this product, a piece of sheet metal will do a fine job to absorb and deflect the torch's heat. Always look behind or past what you are soldering. Be sure you do not melt an electrical wire or telephone wire. You may need to dial 911!

 

Rust Prevention with Paint

Posted on by Tim Carter
rust preventative paint

Here's a great newer paint that's got the primer built in. This saves you TIME AND MONEY. It comes in many colors. While you're buying this paint at Amazon, be SURE TO GET all the other tools you need in the following list.

DEAR TIM: My painted steel patio furniture is beginning to rust. The rust that is beginning to form is light in some areas. However there are some places, near welds, that are heavily corroded. What is the best way to paint this? Can I use any high quality exterior paint to protect the steel? What about primers? B. E.

DEAR B. E.: Guess what? You are about to fork over part of the 2 billion dollars that is spent each year in the USA on protective coatings that inhibit corrosion. Don't worry, you will probably spend less than $25 to give that patio furniture a strong defense against air and water that are causing your rust problems.

Many people don't realize that the steel used in car parts, porch railings, patio furniture, etc. is very unstable. Processed iron or steel is constantly trying to change back to its original state, that of iron ore. You see, iron ore is simply wet, oxidized (rusty) iron. If you were to pick up a piece of iron ore at a mining site, you would have a clump of rust in your hands.

For you to slow this natural rusting process, you need to coat the processed steel with special paints that contain rust inhibitive pigments. These ingredients chemically alter the conditions at the surface of the metal. They make it very hard for the steel to rust. Paints that contain zinc or zinc chromate do a fantastic job of protecting steel from the corrosive effects of air and water.

Red lead also is a super rust inhibiting ingredient. However, lead poses a significant health risk. It is tough to find paints that contain lead. You may be able to find a commercial or industrial paint store that still carries a paint with lead, but be careful where and how you use it. It can poison you and/or your children.

The key to successfully repainting your patio furniture lies in surface preparation, the correct primer, and a high quality top coat. Inadequate surface preparation (cleaning, sanding, etc.) Is responsible for nearly 80 percent of all premature paint coating failures. If you spend several more hours preparing your furniture before painting, you may get several more years of protection. Sounds like a bargain to me.

Believe it or not, you do not have to remove every speck of rust to obtain superior results. Paints are simply complex colored glues. You need to remove any loose rust, oils, dirt, grease, dust, etc. that would normally come off with a thorough washing, scraping, or wire brushing. If the paint can stick well to the substrate, even slightly rusty steel, you will be OK.

Oil based or alkyd primers that contain high quantities of rust inhibitive pigments tend to work the best when priming rusty steel. They have a much better tendency to wet the surface and flow into microscopic cavities in the steel. This is how the paint sticks to the metal. In addition, these special primers are formulated not to breathe. Water vapor can't pass through to get to the steel.

As soon as the primer is dry, you need to paint the furniture with your finish coat of paint. There are both water based and oil based paints that will work well for this purpose. Be sure to use paints that are compatible. Most manufacturers will tell you which primer to use for a particular finish coat or vice versa. Don't try to do amateur chemistry and mix and match for yourself!

 

Decks

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: Within the next few weeks, I plan to build a deck. I am looking for another wood option other than chemically treated pine. I have considered redwood, however, the cost seems extravagant. Also, I worry about the environmental aspects of cutting giant redwood trees. What advice or alternatives can you offer? How about a few deck construction tips? L. E.

DEAR L.E.: You nailed my choice. Redwood is an excellent deck construction material. Western red cedar would be a good choice as well. However, don't discount the use of chemically treated pine as an integral part of your deck. I'll explain in just a moment.

First, let me shed some light on the environmental aspects of redwood. If you have traveled to the national parks and forests in California you most likely saw the Sierra redwoods. These are the giant sequoias that are national treasures. The redwood that is used almost exclusively for construction lumber is the coast redwood. The coast redwood is grown commercially in managed forests. They are two entirely different species. Don't confuse the two.

EB015 Cleaning & Sealing Deck eBoo CoverIt just so happens that the coast redwood is the fastest growing softwood tree in the USA. They reproduce so readily that early homesteaders abandoned land that they tried to convert to farmland. The trees simply grew back too fast! I trust that the leaders in the lumber industry are doing the best they can to properly manage this excellent renewable resource.

Your cost concerns must be based on a past experience. You probably purchased a piece of clear all heart redwood. This is the most expensive part of the log. There are many grades of redwood that are very economical and will do well for your deck. My grade choice would be construction heart. It is an all heartwood grade that contains tight knots. Heartwood is the wood that contains the highest amount of extractive chemicals. These are the things that make redwood and cedar naturally resistant to rot and insect attack.

Building a deck? Make the best decisions with my helpful and thorough Deck Installation & Repair Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

Let's talk about chemically treated pine. This species of lumber should not be discounted. I would use it for all of the structural aspects of your deck. In other words, use it for your support posts, ledger boards, beams, and joists. Use the redwood for your decking, benches, and railing systems. If you are concerned about appearance, you should possibly consider using clear all heart redwood for the handrails.

For your benefit, I did a quick cost analysis. I created a material list for a standard 10 foot by 12 foot deck that sits 3 feet off the ground. The first price was based using chemically treated pine for the entire deck. The second price used construction heart redwood for the decking and rail system. Guess what? It only cost $165.00 more to use redwood on top of the chemically treated pine joist system! I feel that is a bargain for the compliments you will receive from your friends and neighbors.

Consider using stainless steel nails or double dipped hot galvanized nails for construction purposes. Any other nails will cause stains in your redwood. Also, prefinish all of the redwood on all surfaces and cut edges before it is installed! This is very important. You will vastly increase the service life of the redwood if you do this. After construction is complete you can put a final coat of finish on the visible redwood.

Wood deck surfaces need to be cleaned and sealed to keep them in good condition. The cleaner I recommend is oxygen bleach.

Message from Tim:

Years ago while researching a column about cleaning decks, I discovered the wonders of Oxygen Bleach. It is perhaps the 'greenest' cleaner I know of as it uses oxygen ions to break apart stains, dirt and odor molecules. There are no harsh chemicals, and it works on just about anything that is water washable.

I decided to create my own special blend using ingredients made in the USA. In fact, the raw materials in the active ingredient are food-grade quality registered with the FDA. I call my product Stain Solver. I urge you to use it to help clean your deck. You will be amazed at the results!

Author's Notes:

June, 1996

Coastal Redwoods are the tallest trees in the world. They are indeed a natural wonder. These trees are a 'cash crop' for commercial companies. Privately managed tree farms are a reality. Forestry companies currently have the right to plant and harvest timber. However, it takes hundreds of years (see below) for coastal redwood trees to reach maturity. As such, it will take intelligent and resourceful planning to make sure that we preserve this wonderful natural resource.

We owe it to future generations of our country and the world to make sure that we do not eliminate this species from the face of the planet. People who are interested must work together to solve the needs of those who want to use redwood as a building material and those who wish to preserve and protect this magnificent living wonder. Please do your part to become more informed and help in any way possible.

August, 2000

I received a clarifying e-mail from Mr. Dan Opalach, Ph.D. who works for the Simpson Timber Company in Arcata, CA. He was kind enough to politely point out an error in the above Author's Notes. He stated in his e-mail, "... I would like to tell you, however, that redwood trees reach maturity much, much sooner than "hundreds of years" as you mentioned in your column.

Fifty-year-old redwood trees are often 125 feet tall and can be milled to produce 750 board feet of lumber -- enough decking lumber to cover three 10x12 decks!"

Dan, many thanks for this correction! TC