Q&A / 

Recessed Lighting Problems

DEAR TIM: My husband installed some recessed lights in a family room we just built. I think he goofed something up. Every time I turn the lights on, 10 minutes later they automatically turn off. Also, I feel a draft through these fixtures. Did we make a mistake purchasing recessed lights? T. G.

DEAR T. G.: No. However, your husband very likely made several mistakes during the installation. Some of these are potentially very serious and could result in a fire. Do not use the lights again until you have them checked by a professional or by your local electrical inspector. By the way, the electrical inspector DID look at the lights and wiring before they were covered, didn't he? I hope your flashlight batteries are fresh. Recessed lighting is a very functional type of lighting. It can be used to create a border of light in a room, flood work areas with light, spotlight pictures or sculptures, and as general purpose lighting. Personally, I prefer to mix recessed lights with other types of lighting fixtures. This creates layers of light that can be; peeled from one another to create different moods.

There are several reasons why your recessed lights turn off by themselves. All Underwriters Laboratory (UL) approved recessed lighting fixtures produced since the early 1980's must have a thermal protection switch built into the fixture. This device will turn off the light if the temperature inside the fixture gets too hot. After the light cools down, the light will magically turn back on. If this is happening to you, the light is telling you that there is a problem. Your problem may be the ceiling insulation. Some recessed fixtures are allowed to be smothered in insulation. These often are designated IC fixtures. Fixtures without this designation must have a minimum of 3 inches of clearance between the fixture, its junction box, ballasts and any insulation. The National Electric Code specifically states that nothing should be installed above these fixtures that will either trap heat or block free air circulation through the fixture.

In your case, your husband may have installed a fixture without the IC designation. If insulation is too close or on top of this fixture, the fixture will overheat. The problem may also be as simple as the light bulb within the fixture. If it is too large (too high a wattage), the bulb is creating too much heat. Remove the bulb and look inside the recessed light housing. You should see labeling which tells you the maximum wattage of the bulb that you can place in the fixture. Be sure to use the approved light trims for the fixture as well. Intermixing trims between fixtures can cause you to loose your UL rating.

Finally, the draft you feel is unnecessary. Many manufacturers now make recessed lights that are completely sealed. Using these fixtures can save you money. A single recessed light fixture that is not airtight can allow up to 2.5 million cubic feet of air to pass through it in one year. This type of air flow could waste up to 1 million BTU's of energy loss per fixture per year!

If you are looking for an great book for installing simple wall lights to running wire in new construction and in existing walls and ceilings,then Wiring a House is the book for you. With its wealth of practical know how this book, written by a master electrician, is sure to become an indispensable reference for anyone who wants a common sense guide to residential electricity. The black and white photos and illustrations featured in this book are clear, crisp and easy to understand. You must buy a copy of Wiring a House, a great hardback book published by Taunton Press.

Here's a complete, full - color guide to all aspects of residential wiring and how to apply them to the wiring of a typical house. Electrical Wiring Residential, is another must have book. It's everything anyone could need to know, from wiring a lighting branch circuit, to installing a service entrance or swimming pool. Loaded with examples, wiring diagrams, spectacular photos and illustrations explaining all the new 1999 NEC requirements throughly. This book is easy to read and understand, yet has all the instructions and details needed to perform virtually any residential wiring job properly.

If you are looking for a book with invaluable information on tools and materials, detailed instructions for how to repair or replace wiring in old buildings and bring them up to code then you need a copy of Old Electrical Wiring. This 400 plus page book tells you everything you could ever imagine about switch layouts, troubleshooting, and design change. It also has an extensive glossary of old wiring terms and slang. Packed with drawings and illustrations, including pictures of old devices, this practical book will tell you whether an old electrical system should be torn out or repaired. This book will really help you.


19 Responses to Recessed Lighting Problems

  1. Tim,
    I recently installed twelve 6" canned lighting units in my home. I purchased 6" LED lights as my light source. All of the LED lights fit perfectly - flush mounted with the ceiling. However, three of the LED lights seem not to fit entirely inside the canned unit. When I attempt to insert the LED light into the can, it either slips/pushes back or seemingly will not fit properly. The tensioners are in working order and both the canned unit and LED lights are 6" in size. I checked to see if I could adjust the inside height of the canned unit socket and determined that was not an option.

    Have you any suggestions?

    Thank you for your assistance.

  2. One of two recessed lights is going off and on about every 4 minutes. I removed all the insulation that might be a problem. The insulation doesn't appear to be the problem. The light next to it (about 4 ft .away) works perfectly. I have disassembled the problem light and can't identify a "thermal protector" and can only assume that it may be in a metal box near the fixture. There is a flex line running from that box to the small metal cup that holds the ceramic socket. Can you give me a clue as to what to look for?

  3. "Your husband very likely made several mistakes during the installation..." I don't think your target audience of DIYer husbands finds much pleasure in this kind of tone and will likely seek their advice elsewhere.

    • Chuck, are you serious? Am I supposed to not tell the truth? If her husband made mistakes, shouldn't I acknowledge them? Me thinks you're a bit sensitive. Toughen up buddy.

  4. Tim, I've got 4 recessed lights in the kitchen that operate off the same switch. One light I though blew, so I put a new bulb in, and nothing. Thought that bulb maybe was bad also, so I take one from a working light and put it in it, and still nothing. I put that light back in the working one and it's bad now also!! What the heck is goin on? Any ideas? The lights were installed by a licensed elec. and passed insp. I'm a carpenter, and have zero experience as far as troubleshooting electrical. Thx.

  5. Light was crooked I went to straighten it flashed all lights went out took socket holder out put in new bulb reset circuit breaker all lights worked but the one light socket hangs with a white and black wire from top of can with a looks like small chip at top of can have not taken can apart yet ?? This doug

  6. Hi Tim. 2 out of 3 Recessed lights in our bathroom has gone, but getting the fitting out to replace the bulbs seems impossible. The fitting does not twist and cannot be pulled out. It looks like it has been sealed in? Can that be true? Do I really need to start cutting away the white silicon rim around the fitting? Nikoline

    • I wish I could help you, but without being there to see this thing I'm at a disadvantage. I can tell you this. Think how the light was installed. Almost ALWAYS the electrician puts in a rough housing. Then the drywall or plaster people come and the painter. Then the LAST THING is the electrician putting in the trim that you see to finish it off. Remove the bulb and really inspect the inside of the fixture for springs. Sometimes the trim is held in by a tension clip. Good luck to you!

      • Thank you for getting back to me so quickly! The problem is that I can't even get to the bulb as the cover seems to be sealed all the way around to the ceiling (basically it looks like it's glued to the ceiling). Is this normal practice in bathrooms. The rest of the lights in our home do not have this seal.

  7. Tim,
    I've just installed six rerecessed Philips LED lights and a Leviton dimmer. everything works great, but when the lights are off you can still see a faint glow. What could be the problem? Thank you

      • Tim,
        Tried 4 different switches with no luck, then I pulled the light from the can and it shut off completely, as soon as I put it back in it came back on. The can is not energized, I checked with my voltmeter. I even put electrical tape on the metal springs that hold the light and that didn't work. Now I'm very confused

  8. I thought maybe my bulb blew out in my recessed lighting. Went to replace it and the socket seems loose and spinning. Checked others and no problem with them. Blew the circuit and tried again to tighten the bulb. It blew again. Can not get light to work. How do I tighten the socket inside the recessed lighting. Thanks, Linda

    • You need to call in an electrician. You have a SERIOUS fire hazard. The socket wiring is shorting out. TURN OFF THE BREAKER NOW and get an electrician out there as soon as possible.

  9. I have two recessed lights that keep shitting off and no insulation covering them. I replaced the 75 watt floods with 75 watt equivalent LED floods, same thing happened. So I went a step further down to smaller 49watt equivalent LED floods they still shut off. They've been doing this for years so I want to finally get them taken care of. I'm told there are specific lights I need to use and was curious if you might have more info by chance?

    Appreciate and guidance.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>