Caulk Removal

Posted on January 12, 2017 by Tim Carter

Caulk removal is easy if you use a caulk removal tool that will cut caulk out of corners. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO ORDER ONE.

"The best caulk remover might be your wife's hairdryer. This unusual tool is probably the best silicone caulk remover. Be sure to get her permission to use it!"

Caulk Removal TIPS

Remove old caulk with sharp tools and heat
Some solvents can soften silicone caulk
Isopropyl alcohol softens non-silicone caulks - Flammable
Watch Caulk REMOVAL VIDEOS Below!
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DEAR TIM: I need to know how to remove caulk in several places in my bathroom. The caulk has mildewed. Can you show me how to remove silicone caulk?

What kind of caulk can I install that will not support the growth of mildew? How can I STOP mildew growth in my bathroom? Andrea Z., Hobe Sound, FL

Free & Fast Bids

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local handymen that can remove caulk.

DEAR ANDREA: I can show you how to remove caulk and how to remove silicone caulk. Believe it or not, it's easy and you probably use the primary tool on your hair each morning.

Many homeowners, including myself, have battled unsightly caulk joints in bathrooms, kitchens and other high moisture locations for years.

You can now purchase mildew-resistant caulks to eliminate future mildewed caulk problems. It's going to take some effort on your part to remove the existing caulk, but it's not that hard.

You're going to start with heat first. WATCH the following video.

If that doesn't work for you, then there are some solvents you can use to remove caulk. You'll also need to use a caulk removal tool to minimize damage to adjacent surfaces.

Silicone Caulk Remover Video

Watch this short video to see a most unusual silicone caulk remover. Your wife has it in your bathroom. Get her permission to use it!

How to Remove Caulk Video

Here's a second video that shows a simple caulk removal tool and how to carefully use it.

Why Does Mildew Grow on Caulk?

Mildew grows on caulk because there's water, mildew spores and mildew food on the caulk.

Bathrooms, and kitchens are ideal locations for mildew growth. Mildew spores are everywhere in your home. They float in the air and settle on everything.

For mildew to blossom and grow it just needs two things: water and food. Bathrooms - especially tub and shower areas - provide ideal growth conditions for mildew. Daily showers and baths supply water that often ponds at the locations where you frequently use caulk. These areas are often the last to dry out as the water evaporates.

Body oils, soap films, shampoos, and other hair care products almost always contain ingredients, or food, that provide mildew spores a continuous, delectable smorgasbord. Certain caulks actually contain organic ingredients that mildew eat.

How Do I Stop Mildew on Caulk?

You stop mildew on caulk by cutting off the water supply to the mildew spores.

It's important to realize you must also keep the caulk clean. Body oils, dirt, and other things are food for mildew. Clean these off and the mildew can't survive.

Sadly most people don't have the diligence and discipline to do what's needed. After each shower, you must use a squeegee to get as much water off the walls and any other surfaces in the shower area. If you have a shower curtain, shake it to get as much water off as possible before using the squeegee. Use the squeegee to pull the water to the drain.

How Can I Dry Off the Caulk?

You dry off caulk by leaving the shower curtain or shower door open to allow air to get into the tub or shower area. Leave the bathroom door open so house air can lower the humidity in the bathroom.

Use a high-quality bathroom exhaust fan to get as much humid air out of the room as possible. I happen to LOVE the Fantech bathroom exhaust fan.

Here's a typical Fantech bath exhaust fan setup. The odd cone-shaped metal thing is the fan. The two boxes that have the round white covers are place up in the ceiling joists of the bathrooms. All you see are the sleek round white covers. They come with and without lights! I LOVED these in my last house. CLICK THE IMAGE TO BUY the SET NOW.

What is the Best Caulk Remover?

The best caulk remover might just be a hairdryer. The heat softens cured caulk sometimes making it easy to scrape.

Caulk removal begins by softening the old caulk. There are some solvents you can try. 3M makes a caulk-removal solvent they say works on all caulks. Be patient with them as it can take a while for them to soften the caulk. The older the caulk is, the longer it may take for the solvent to work.

Here's a caulk removal solvent. 3M claims that it works on any type of caulk. The key is to let it work after you apply it. Don't be impatient. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW to ORDER IT.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local handymen that can remove caulk for you.

How Do You Use Liquid Caulk Removers?

You use liquid caulk removers with care. The first thing to realize is you need to read the instructions on the label.

Once you have allowed the solvent to work, you manually scrape out the bulk of the old caulk. You can use a razor blade or any other type of cutting or scraping tool that will not hurt you or the materials adjacent or beneath the caulk.

If you decide to use a razor knife of any type, I suggest you wear medium duty leather gloves to protect your hands during the removal process.

What is a Good Caulk Removal Tool?

A good caulk removal tool is one that has guides that protect the surfaces the caulk touches. The tool must be sharp and be able to get into corners.

Here's a unique tool that is made specifically to remove caulk. It has a stainless-steel guide and cutting plow to get caulk out of corners. Be sure to always read reviews about any tool before you invest in it.

This tool will cut caulk out of corners. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO ORDER ONE.

There are other caulk-removal hand tools out there. Some are made for flat seams instead of corner seams. CLICK HERE to see a wide assortment of caulk-removal tools.

When using a caulk-removal tool, feel free to incorporate some water as a lubricant. The water will help to minimize scratches to tile or plumbing fixtures. Work slowly and carefully. Remember, the more power you exert while scraping or cutting, the more control you lose over the scraping tool.

Are There DIY Caulk-Removal Liquids?

Yes, you may have some effective caulk removal liquids in your kitchen pantry or under your bathroom sink. Regular isopropyl alcohol is a handy caulk remover.

If you don't want to try a specialty off-the-shelf caulk remover, there are products you may already have in your own home. Experiment first with plain water. If the original caulk was a non-acrylic water-based caulk, soaking it with water saturated rags for three days can soften the caulk remnants.

Water-based acrylic caulks and those made with polyvinyl acetate resins can often be softened by soaking them with isopropyl rubbing alcohol. The alcohol swells the old caulk molecules and helps to lift them from the surrounding materials. Be careful when using the alcohol as it is a flammable substance and often burns with little or no flame.

How To Remove Silicone Caulk

Silicone caulks are the hardest caulk to remove. Start to remove silicone caulk with heat from a hairdryer. If that doesn't work, step up to some softening chemicals.

Some of my readers have had success with WD-40. You can also scroll up and try the 3M product I mentioned earlier.

Multiple applications of strong alkaline compounds like sodium or potassium hydroxide can soften silicone caulk. Oven cleaners contain this chemical.

DANGER WARNING: These chemical compounds are dangerous and can often burn you or the materials surrounding the caulk. Apply these carefully to the caulk with a cotton swab. These compounds can dull plastic laminate tops, acrylic and fiberglass tub and shower units and many other bath and kitchen materials. You must work slowly and carefully.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local handymen that can remove caulk for you.

What is the Best Caulk to Use?

The best caulk to use is one that contains mildewcides. These caulks contain chemicals that leach from the caulk over time and poison the mildew spores. Some of the caulks come in beautiful colors and offer lifetime guarantees against mildew growth.

You can minimize mildew growth in bath and shower areas by cleaning them on a frequent basis. Cleaning and rinsing all surfaces with clear water will remove mildew food sources. You should also keep tub and shower doors and curtains open after you leave a bathroom. Leave bath doors open as well to speed the drying process.

WATCH THESE TWO VIDEOS to see how to install your new caulk:

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local handymen that can remove caulk for you.

This popular column was shared in the April 16, 2014 Newsletter & Tips.

Column 229

Plumbing Vent Piping Tips

Posted on January 11, 2017 by Tim Carter

Plumbing Vent Piping | There is more plumbing vent pipe in this photo than drain piping! The fixture on the left is a washing machine drain box. You can see the 2-inch drain pipe leave the box and go into a p-trap. It connects to a 2 x 1.5 x 2 x tee. The vent pipe rising above the tee is just 1.5 pipe and connects to another vent pipe that is coming up from the basement below. That vent pipe leaving the upper right corner of the photo is on its way out through the roof. © 2018 Tim Carter

"Plumbing vent pipe is very important and supplies air from the atmosphere into the drain pipes. The vent pipes must have a slope to drain condensation water."

Revised February 2018

Plumbing Vent Pipe TIPS

Vent pipes allow air into the plumbing system
WATCH my Vent Piping video below!
Each fixture needs to be vented properly
Vent pipes don't have to be as big as the drain pipe
CLICK HERE to Get Tim's FREE & FUNNY Newsletter

DEAR TIM: I've got a remodeling project coming up and I intend to do the plumbing work. I'm good to go on the water lines, but the drain lines and plumbing vents are my weak spot.

Can you give me the executive summary on plumbing vents? Is there a failsafe method of venting so that everything will work fine down the road? What are the biggest things to avoid? Mandy P., Portland, ME

DEAR MANDY: You've asked for the impossible. I've been a master plumber since 1979 and I don't know if it's possible to do a Vulcan mind meld between you and me, but I'll give it my best shot.

Plumbing vent pipes often confuse many, and even apprentice plumbers who are somewhat familiar with the trade often make serious mistakes when it comes to plumbing vent systems.

Can I Install My Own Plumbing Vent Pipe?

The first thing I want to mention is to make sure you check to see if you're allowed to install the piping. Some states and towns only allow licensed plumbers to do this work. The reasoning is based on public health. If you make mistakes when you plumb, you can get some people seriously ill or even cause death.

For the most part, nothing about residential plumbing is that hard. If you're reasonably intelligent, you'll be able to do the work and grasp the physics principals that are involved.

The absolute best book about much of what you need to know was written by a peer of mine, Rex Cauldwell. You should buy his book:

Rex is a peer plumber. This is an exceptional book filled with tips. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW to have the book delivered to your home.

What Happens When Water Flows Down Drain Pipes?

Air is pushed out of the way when water flows down drain pipes. This air must be replaced and that's what a plumbing vent pipe does. It brings air from outside into the entire plumbing system.

To help you understand the need for plumbing vents, let's talk about what happens in drain piping when water travels down through the system. In a properly designed plumbing drain and vent system, there is air in the pipes before water is poured down a drain or a toilet is flushed.

As soon as you introduce water, and lots of it quickly, into a plumbing drain, the dynamics of the air changes. The water surging into the system displaces the air often pushing it down the drain in front of the rushing water. This air needs to be replaced so a vacuum doesn't form in the system.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers if you want them to install your vents.

Are Vacuums in Plumbing Drains Bad?

Vacuums in plumbing drain lines are bad, very bad. You've possibly heard a vacuum getting satisfied if you've been in a bathroom when a tub or sink drain gurgles when you flush the toilet. At a friend's house, this would happen every time his washing machine would drain.

When the washing machine pump came on, his kitchen sink would gurgle and the water in the trap under the sink would be sucked dry. This allowed sewer gas to enter his house and vermin that are crawling around in the sewer lines. Yuck!!

To prevent traps in downstream fixtures from being sucked dry like my friend's kitchen sink, you install a vent pipe, usually within 3 feet, close to the fixture trap. This vent pipe rises vertically towards the roof where it opens to the atmosphere to get the needed replacement air.

What is the normal size of most vent pipes?

It's important to realize a pipe that's 1.5 inches in diameter is sufficient to vent any residential fixture. But understand that some plumbing codes have very specific sizing requirements.

The horizontal white PVC pipe at the bottom of the photo held up by the j-hook is a drain pipe for a shower. It connects to a 2-inch tee against the wall. Out of the top of the tee, you can see a 1 and 1/2 vent pipe extending up into the floor and wall above on its way to the roof. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

If you start to collect vent pipes from other fixtures as you head to the roof vent, the pipes will have to get bigger, just as plumbing drain lines and building drain pipes get bigger the more water that enters them.

Can a Plumbing Vent Pipe be Small?

Vent pipes can be tiny and work. I'll never forget visiting a farm owned by another master plumber friend of mine. For fun, he vented all of the fixtures in a large bathroom with 1/2-inch copper water lines! Believe it or not, enough air was able to pass through that tiny pipe to satisfy each of the fixtures.

It was just a simple experiment he did as he knew it would never pass an inspection. Lot's of air can pass quickly through a small unobstructed pipe.

WATCH THIS VIDEO NOW:

Should I Vent All Fixtures?

To be safe, extend a vent pipe from every fixture. Certain fixtures can be wet-vented, this means two fixtures share a common vent, but since I can't be at your house to mentor you on this complex technique, just install separate vents for each fixture. Be sure any vent line that has to run horizontally actually has a tilt to it so any condensate water that forms in the pipe drains down to the sewer or septic tank.

Are Studor Vents a Bad Idea?

Studor vents, in my opinion as a master plumber, are a bad idea. They have moving parts and they will eventually fail.

You should install a loop vent instead.

CLICK or TAP HERE to get access to the rest of the video where I show you exactly what to do.

There are many things to avoid when installing plumbing vent pipes. I'm not a huge fan of the mechanical vents that you might install under an island sink or in some other location where running a traditional atmospheric vent is next to impossible. The common name for these vents is air-admittance valves.

That name should be SCREAMING at you. Why? Because a valve has MOVING PARTS

Every mechanical vent I've installed has failed over time. Anything that has a moving part will fail eventually

Can Ice Choke Off Vent Pipe Air?

Yes, ice can choke off a vent pipe. It happens at my own home in bitterly cold weather. This ice is often called hoarfrost.

Mandy, you live in a coastal area, so it doesn't get bitterly cold for too long. But if you live in an area that gets frigid for long periods of time, you have to make sure the vent pipe both above and below the roof is a large pipe, say 4 inches in diameter, so that it doesn't get choked off with frost buildup.

I've seen this happen and it's almost unbelievable to think that ice could form in a vent pipe. It happens because the vent pipe sticking through the roof gets as cold as the air temperature.

If the air temperature is cold enough outdoors, the water vapor traveling up the pipe can freeze right to the sides of the pipe. The ice buildup is the same temperature as the air temperature.

Soon the vent pipe chokes off with ice. This happened to me here at my own home in New Hampshire the winter of 2015-16. I didn't build this house and the plumber just has a 3-inch vent pipe extending through the roof. It should have been 4 inches.

Do I Need a Full-Sized Vent Pipe?

Yes, full-sized vent pipes are a good idea. At least one of the primary 3, or 4-inch, drainage stacks should continue up and through the roof without changing the pipe size. Other smaller vent pipes from other fixtures can connect to this full-sized vent pipe.

Avoid the temptation to eliminate a full-sized vent in your plumbing system. Some new plumbing codes are moving away from full-sized plumbing vents. I'm not a fan of this. A full-sized vent is a primary vent where the drain line transitions at some point and becomes the vent pipe that exits the roof.

In many an older home, this drain pipe is perhaps 4 inches in diameter and stays that size all the way through the roof. Other vent pipes that are smaller may connect to this full-sized vent, and that's perfectly fine.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers if you want them to install your vents.

Column 883

Heat Pumps – How Well Do They Work?

Posted on January 11, 2017 by Tim Carter

How does a heat pump work? A heat pump is not much different than a car. You can go forward or reverse in a car. In the winter, the heat pump gets heat from the outside air and brings it into your home. In the summer, the heat pump works in reverse and takes heat from your home, and dumps it outside. In other words, a heat pump is both a heater and an air conditioner! It pumps the heat in different directions depending on the season!

"As the outdoor temperature continues to drop, the heat pump needs help from traditional electric resistance heat coils."

How Does a Heat Pump Work?

Heat pumps extract heat from cold outdoor air
They produce a cold heat from forced-air vents
If outside temperature is below 37 F, heat pumps need to use electric resistance head coils inside the furnace to keep house warm
Federal regulations require a refrigerant that can be more difficult to use
CLICK HERE to subscribe to Tim's FREE & FUNNY Newsletter

Do Heat Pumps Work Best at 50F?

Heat pumps work very efficiently when the outdoor temperature is in the 50 F range. As the outdoor temperature drops, the heat loss of a home is greater and the heat pump needs to operate for longer periods of time to maintain a constant indoor temperature.

Around 37 F many heat pumps reach what is called the balance point. At or near this temperature the heat pump needs to run constantly to produce enough heat to maintain a comfortable indoor temperature.

What Happens When The Temperature Drops?

As the outdoor temperature continues to drop, the heat pump needs help from traditional electric resistance heat coils. These coils resemble the glowing wires inside your toaster and consume vast amounts of electricity as they burn to keep you warm.

Your thermostat will most probably have a light that comes on when this happens. It is usually labeled as emergency or auxiliary heat.

If this light is on whenever your heat pump is working when the outdoor temperature is above 40 F, you should have a professional service your system.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from heat pump technicians in your city or town.

Do Heat Pumps Create Cold Heat?

Heat pumps have a reputation for producing what's called a cold heat. The air flowing from the air vents is around 90 F, and sometimes as low as 85 F.

This may seem warm or hot, but it's not when it's cold outdoors.

The temperature of the air coming out of floor registers that connect to a furnace burning natural gas, propane, or oil might be in excess of 110F if you're close to the furnace.

Are All Heat Pumps the Same Efficiency?

No, manufacturers can make heat pumps operate at different levels of efficiency. The more heat a system can produce or remove from a given amount of electricity, the more efficient it is.

A common measurement of this performance is the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER).

What are the Newer Heat Pump SEER Regulations?

SEER numbers can vary widely if you compare old heat pumps to new ones. Heat pumps made and installed in the 1980's often had peak SEER numbers of 6.

Before the year 2015, the minimum SEER you can buy today was 13. Federal regulations are always changing and after January 1, 2015, the USA was divided into three regions:

North (green area in the map below)
South (red area in the map below)
Southwest (purple area in the map below)

This map shows the three regions in the USA. Map is made possible by the Fair-Use portion of the US Copyright regulations and is courtesy of American Standard Heating and Cooling. CLICK the IMAGE to see the entire document.

CLICK HERE for a .pdf file created by the Air Conditioning, Heating, and Refrigeration Institute that explains the requirements. Remember, the requirements can change all the time.

The highest SEER heat pumps made at present are a tad over SEER 16. Any heat pump that has a SEER rating above 14 is very high efficiency.

Can SEER Numbers Be Misleading?

The SEER numbers are a little misleading. They actually are a measurement of the efficiency of the heat pump when it is in the cooling or air conditioning mode.

If you live in a warm or hot climate, it might make great sense to purchase a heat pump with a high SEER value. People who live in cool or cold climates may not get a payback for the extra money they spend for a high-value SEER heat pump.

What's more, those who have high electricity costs will save more than those who have access to inexpensive electricity. It can be confusing, to say the least.

For example, if your house needs a 3-ton heat pump, your average electric rate is $.0867 per kilowatt-hour, and you live in New England, you might only save $36 per year in cooling costs when you upgrade from a SEER 10 to a SEER 13 heat pump. Your overall savings when you heat and cool for an entire year might only be $189. A person who lives in south Florida who has the exact same system and utility rates could possibly save $173 per year in cooling costs and an overall annual savings of $215 by upgrading from a SEER 10 to 13. Professional heating and cooling contractors can help you estimate savings for your area.

Why is Freon-22 No Longer Available?

The Environmental Protection Agency, in accordance with the Montreal Protocol, is obligated to phase out over a period of years hydrochloroflourocarbon (HCFC) refrigerants used in heat pump and air conditioning systems.

Most residential systems years ago used a refrigerant called Freon-22 that happens to be in this group. Back in January 2004, contractors had to scale back the use of Freon-22. In 2020, Freon-22 will not be permitted to be imported nor manufactured in the USA.

Do New Refrigerants Operate at Higher Pressures?

The issue with the new refrigerant for you is that it requires much higher operating pressures within the heat pumps. This means the tiniest leak can turn into major problems.

The new regulations also created huge issues for contractors and technicians because they needed new meters, test equipment, etc. to work with the newly mandated refrigerants. But at the same time, they had to keep all old equipment to work on units with Freon-22.

Who Pays the Cost For The New Regulations?

This is but one example of how government regulations put a hidden tax on you. The contractors raise their prices to cover the huge investment they have to make in all the new equipment.

I say this so you understand that there are often secondary unintended consequences to what appear to be wonderful regulations. In the end, you and I pay for all of this. It's always passed through to the consumer.

If you still own one of the last Freon-22 heat pumps, you may have to pay a king's ransom to get your heat pumps filled with refrigerant if a leak develops.

If you’re interested in learning more about heat pump replacement cost I have an article here.

If you want the best heat, and this is my opinion, you want to have radiant floor heat. Once you've been in a home that has radiant floor heat, you'll never want a heat pump.

In the March 7, 2021 AsktheBuilder Newsletter, Wayne emailed asking about replacing or installation a new heating system. This popular column provided the information he needed.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from heat pump technicians in your city or town.

Column 294

Drilling Into Stucco

Posted on January 11, 2017 by Tim Carter

Drilling Into Stucco TIPS

Cement stucco is HARD
Modern stucco, then be careful! Warranty could be VOIDED by drilling!
For cement stucco, a simple cordless hammer drill with masonry bit CLICK HERE to get one
Use stainless-steel fasteners to prevent rust
CLICK HERE to subscribe to Tim's FREE & FUNNY Newsletter!

DEAR TIM: My home is made from stucco and I would really like to hang some decorative art objects on the exterior walls. I am having big problems trying to figure out to drill holes into the stucco so as not to damage it. Is it safe to drill into the stucco? Will it cause leaks that can lead to mold? Kristine N., Victorville, CA

DEAR KRISTINA: I think your idea is a splendid one and often wonder why more people don't hang things on their houses. I can understand why someone would not want to drill a hole into a brick or into a decorative stone, but even these things can be cleverly patched with a moderate amount of skill.

As soon as you get the tool and a few inexpensive pieces of hardware you need, your house is going to be the best looking on the street. You will have those pieces of art securely fastened in no time.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local handymen that can drill your stucco for you.

Hard or Soft Stucco?

The first thing you need to determine is the type of stucco you have on your home. Over the past 20 years, a synthetic stucco has been used that too many homeowners think is traditional cement-based stucco. The synthetic stucco is called Exterior Insulation Finishing System or EIFS for short. Most of these systems consist of factory-made acrylic-based products that are applied out of buckets. They are often applied over a layer of foam insulation.

EIFS is Soft

You can tell if your home is made from EIFS in most cases if it looks like the material you see above shops and stores at outdoor malls. Have you seen the colored stucco at these places? Often it's extended down lower where you can touch and feel it. If you tap on it with your fist, it feels a little hollow. Try that at your own home.

Traditional cement stucco plaster is just that. It is a mixture of sand, Portland cement and sometimes some hydrated lime. Once dry, it is as hard as rock because it is actually man-made rock. Cement stucco is much harder than EIFS and it rarely is applied over insulating foam. Cement stucco is typically applied over regular wall sheathing that is covered with tar paper or some other water barrier which is covered with a wire mesh to give the cement stucco great strength.

Cement Stucco NOT Hollow

If you tap or hit cement stucco with your hand, it will NOT FEEL hollow! In fact, don't hit it too hard or you may injure your hand!

If your home is covered with EIFS, you must contact the manufacturer of the system to get their explicit written instructions as to how to drill and seal the hole. If you do not perform each step as outlined, you can void the warranty on the EIFS system. This is very important as many of the EIFS manufacturers have been involved in mold-related cases that stem from water getting into and behind these exterior skins.

Hammer Drill

Traditional cement stucco is easy to work with and drilling into it is simple if you have the right tool. I have successfully used a hammer drill with a 1/4 inch bit to drill holes into stucco. Hammer drills can be rented at tool rental businesses, but you'll be very smart to invest in a great one now. You'll use it for many future projects. Here's a cordless hammer drill that I own and LOVE:

I own this hammer drill and it's a top performer. The lithium-ion batteries provide all sorts of power. CLICK THE IMAGE to BUY IT NOW.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local handymen that can drill your stucco for you.

Remove Dust

Once the hole is drilled, carefully blow out any dust. Use a turkey baster or compressed air to do this, not your mouth as dust may shoot back and get in your eyes. Once the hole is dust-free, squirt a small amount of acrylic caulk into the hole. Then insert a plastic anchor and tap it snugly into the hole.

If you don't own a kit with different anchors, fasteners and masonry drill bits, you should consider getting one. They're fairly inexpensive and they'll save you repeated trips to a hardware store or home center to get one or two small parts. Here's a dandy one:

An anchor kit with bits can save you VAST amounts of time driving to a hardware store. CLICK THE IMAGE to BUY THIS ONE NOW.

Stainless Steel = NO RUST

I would then use a stainless steel screw instead of the ones that came with the anchor kit. The hardware store should have stainless steel screws that are the exact same size as the ones in the kit. Stainless steel will not rust over time.

Cement Stucco STRONG

Cement stucco will support a tremendous amount of weight because you are basically drilling into rock. But if you are hanging heavy objects on an EIFS system, you may run into problems. The thin acrylic skin is not structural nor is the foam beneath it. You may think your art work is fine, but over time the anchor holes can enlarge and water may get into the walls. Be very careful hanging any objects on an EIFS system.

Drilling into cement stucco with a hammer drill is like using a regular wood bit and drilling into balsa wood. A hammer drill acts like a miniature jack hammer and pounds the hard surface as the drill bit spins. Even with this seemingly destructive action, the hole that is drilled is extremely precise.

Always make sure you drill only as deep as necessary. Pay attention to the length of the anchor and screw and only drill 1/8 inch deeper than the screw is long. Be very careful around areas where you think electric wires or water lines might be present.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local handymen that can drill your stucco for you.

Column 534

Tankless Water Heater

Posted on January 10, 2017 by Tim Carter

Tankless Water Heater TIPS

Money Savings NOT Guaranteed - SEE BELOW
Tankless heaters are very expensive
ROI takes many years
Tankless heaters use more fuel
CLICK HERE to subscribe to Tim's FREE & FUNNY Newsletter!

DEAR TIM: I wonder if a tankless water heater is the best thing for a new vacation home I am building in Michigan. Does a tankless hot water heater makes sense since the house will be vacant from November 1 to April 1 and occupied on a random basis the remainder of the time? For the seven months where we will be there from time to time, it seems that turning down a regular heater will waste energy. What would you install if this were your vacation home? Bob S., Amberley Village, OH

Author's Note: This is the second column I've written on this topic. I URGE YOU TO CLICK HERE and read my first column as well. It contains MUCH MORE information and several homeowner stories sent to me from people who have NOT SAVED MONEY using tankless water heaters. In fact, they spend MORE MONEY each month on fuel.

DEAR BOB: Each time I discuss tankless water heaters certain people get really hot. It is one of those topics that seems to polarize people, and I have come to realize that many consumers don't stop and ask all of the right questions before they get out their credit cards or checkbooks. It is impossible in this limited space to fully discuss the topic.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers who can install water heaters.

To answer your questions, I am going to stick to some basic facts. I gathered them from my own utility bill, tankless water heater manufacturers and websites that sell additional installation parts. I also am adding a pinch of high-school math. Let's state as many facts as the space will allow, and then start a discussion.

Tankless Heaters Expensive!

A tankless water heater can cost up to three times a traditional storage-tank water heater. Some tankless water heaters that use natural gas or propane require expensive stainless-steel exhaust-venting pipes.

The gas lines feeding the heaters need to be larger than a traditional water heater. This is not a challenge in new work like yours, but can add considerable expense in an existing home where the fuel lines might need to be redone.

More Energy Efficient, But...

Tankless water heaters are more energy efficient than traditional storage-tank heaters. A traditional storage-tank water heater might be 60-percent efficient while a newer tankless heater often can produce efficiencies of 80 percent or slightly higher.

I studied a past utility bill and discovered I spent about $36.00 on hot water using a traditional storage-tank heater for a family of five that was sometimes taking two showers a day after sweating to death doing outdoor work and activities.

This means I spent $1.16 per day to heat and store my water. My winter hot-water costs could be expected to be slightly more, since the temperature of the incoming water is colder and must be heated longer to get to the desired temperature.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers who can install water heaters.

We use our water heater every day. You will be using your water heater for maybe 40 - 50 days a year.

Let's do the math.

If I were to switch to a tankless heater today, I might save $7.00 per month on the efficiency differential and maybe an additional $2.00 per month on the amount of energy lost while the heated water sits in the tank. This means a tankless water heater could save me $108.00 per year. Let's go ahead and be even more aggressive and say $125.00 per year.

Installation Cost is HIGH

I did a calculation and discovered that if my existing water heater failed today and I replaced it with a tankless water heater sized for my family needs, I would have to spend an extra $1,550.00 to install the new tankless heater. Not only is the heater much more expensive than a standard storage-tank heater, I need to do all sorts of extra work installing a larger gas line and vent modifications to make the new heater work. This could easily cost an extra $1,000.

Many Years for ROI

Using the most basic math, it would take me nearly 12 and one-half years just to break even. Remember, if you have to spend extra money on anything to save money, the savings part of the equation does not kick in until such time as you get the extra money back plus any lost interest or investment equity you would have made had you not spent the extra money. I did not include lost-interest income in my payback example above. Had I, the payback period would have been longer.

IMPORTANT: The bottom line in your case is that the economics are far worse. It could take you 30 years or more to break even, since the tankless water heater would sit idle in your vacation home for so many days each year. Tankless water heaters must work very hard each and every day of the year for them to make economic sense for many people.

Vacation Mode

When your vacation house is shut down for the winter, you are going to drain the heater and plumbing lines in case the furnace fails. You use no energy in those months. When you do occupy the house, turn the heater off when you leave to go back to your primary home. Do not use the "Vacation" setback thermostat setting. When you arrive back at the vacation house for each visit, turn the heater back on as soon as you walk in the door. Within 90 minutes or less at least you will have lukewarm water.

Great Machines

Tankless water heaters are marvelous machines if you want an unlimited supply of hot water. They do a splendid job of that and can provide lots of hot water if there is not a drastic difference between the cooler incoming water and the outgoing hot water. If you have a heated-water temperature of 110F and the incoming water is 75F, then some tankless heaters can produce 8.5 gallons per minute of hot water. But if that same heater has incoming water of 45F like I do in January, then you can only get about 5 gallons of hot water per minute.

IMPORTANT TIP: Beware of buying a tankless water heater just to save money. I have received emails from people who spend more each month on both water and fuel. Some people end up using far more hot water than usual once they discover there is an endless supply. CLICK HERE to read some of the emails.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from plumbers in your city or town to install a tankless water heater.

Column 710

January 10, 2017 AsktheBuilder Newsletter

Posted on January 10, 2017 by Tim Carter

Once again, there's lots to share. I'm having a BLAST going back and revising all of my past columns at the AsktheBuilder.com website. More on that in a moment.

My oldest daughter Meghan, and her husband Brent, bought me an Amazon Echo Dot for Christmas. I LOVE IT. It's just a little bigger than a hockey puck. Here's a photo of one:

The dot is your invisible companion that can settle arguments, tell you weather forecast, play music for you, etc. I often use it when we talk about something at the dinner table and two people can't agree. Here's an example.

My son and I wondered if we could get great barbecue in Austin, Texas. He and I are in the early stages of planning a one-week BBQ road trip. So I asked Alexa, "Alexa, can you get good barbecue in Austin, TX?"

She came back with a list of top-rated locations!

CLICK HERE to for a partial list of all the Amazon Echo Dot can do.

We use it downstairs in the giant family room because I have the larger Alexa up in my man cave.

I'm still discovering all the helpful things it can do. For example, I just used it to set an important timer for an upcoming conference call.

I said, "Alexa, set a timer for one hour and six minutes." She responded very politely that the timer had indeed been set.

Some people don't like this technology. You may be one. All I can tell you is that voice recognition is the future and it's a time saver.

You can almost always *talk* faster than you can type or manually set something. Just about every text message I send I do so using voice recognition. I don't *type* all the letters and words. Sometimes you get funny results and I do send those for a laugh.

Meghan and Brent control the temperature in their house with their Alexa. They also control the lights. Instead of walking over to a dimmer switch, Meghan just says, "Alexa, set the kitchen lights at 30 percent."

If you have someone you know that LOVES technology and you're looking for a great gift, consider the Amazon Alexa or the Echo Dot.

Dresser Danger and Toddlers

Did you see the video that went viral a few days ago about the two twin boys who decided to go mountain climbing in their bedroom? Bob Tingler, a good friend and subscriber to this newsletter, asked me to share it with you.

CLICK HERE to watch the video and discover HOW to PREVENT this from happening.

I decided to write out clear step-by-step instructions on how to keep kids like this from getting killed.

In this instance, the one boy kicked the Grim Reaper to the curb. But sadly, other toddlers have died when this happens.

If you have toddler grandchildren, or are about to have some, PLEASE send the following link to your kids or anyone you know that has an infant or an adventurous toddler. Infants will SOON BE toddlers:

Send the following URL to anyone that needs this information. It could be a friend, a son or daughter, a local newspaper letter to the editor, etc. Do whatever you can to spread the word about how to bolt a dresser to the wall.

Dresser Falls on Twins BOLT to Wall

Thanks Bob for the reminder.

I NEED YOUR HELP!!!!

I'm in the final editing phase of my Roofing Ripoff book. Don't ask me how I overlooked this, but last year when I wrote most of it I FORGOT to ask you a few important questions!!!!

I NEED your input to really add some weight to things that are covered in the book.

If you've not yet taken my Asphalt Shingle WARRANTY Survey yet, please do. I just announced it on Sunday.

If you've already taken the survey in the past two days, do NOT take it again.

You should take the survey if you have an asphalt roof, or are planning to put a NEW ONE on this year.

If you take the survey, I'm going to send you a SPECIAL EMAIL when the book is ready. You'll be able to get a 20 percent discount on the .pdf version of the book.

CLICK HERE to take the SHORT survey. Thanks!

Latest REVISED Columns

I'm having a BLAST revising the columns and creating the helpful bullet-point lists.

If you're a new subscriber, I'm going back into my website and refreshing older content, revising it, and adding HELPFUL LINKS to save you time and money. Those columns that talk about the products I LOVE and USE will have DIRECT LINKS so you can get the products yourself.

For example, this morning I revised one I wrote, are you sitting down?, eighteen YEARS ago about tankless water heaters.

You should READ IT, especially the stories sent in by homeowners like you that bought a tankless heater only to be shocked at what happened!

CLICK HERE to read it.

I'm finding out that I'm revising columns faster than I thought. This means it might be a good idea for me to send out emails to you that just have SHORT LISTS of the columns I just did the day before.

If I just wait and save them up, then there may be too many for you to look at when I send out editions of the newsletter like this. I already have a big backlog. UGH!

I know that it's impossible to satisfy everyone, so let's try sending out short announcements and I'll monitor if I get too many complaints.

If it gets overwhelming SEND A REPLY TO ME and I'll make an adjustment. I don't want to stress you out, but I do want to SAVE you time and money!

I plan to make each Subject Line be a little different so you can save the emails if you don't have time to open each one. That may make it easier for you. See below.

It's a hard balance to strike with respect to keeping you informed, but not swamping you at the same time.

Here's a list of FIVE MORE revised columns you should really take a look at:

Light Bulbs Burn Out TOO FAST

STOP Water From Leaking Into Your Basement / Crawlspace

NASTY BioFilm in Your House!!! How to STOP It.

Ten SECRET Drywall Finishing TIPS

Modifying a Load Bearing Wall - SUPER IMPORTANT!

Okay, enough for today. WATCH for the SHORT Announcements about future revisions! I'll make this the Subject Line so you know:

AsktheBuilder.com (insert date) Column Revisions

Passez une bonne journée!

Tim Carter
Founder - AsktheBuilder.com

Do It Right, Not Over!

Dresser Falls on Twins BOLT to Wall

Posted on January 10, 2017 by Tim Carter

Dresser Falls on Twins - Bolt Your Dresser to the Wall

You can see in the above video how the twins decided to climb up on the dresser to have some fun.

The issue is that it could have ended badly with the one twin being suffocated or dying from a crushed skull.

Children do die from these accidents, just read about it online from trusted news sources.

This warning was shared in my January 10, 2017 AsktheBuilder Newsletter.

You can PREVENT this from happening by just installing two lag bolts through the back of the dresser into wall studs. Here are the easy step-by-step instructions:

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from handymen in your city or town to do this project NOW.

Use a stud finder to locate the wall studs behind the dresser.

Trace a faint line on the wall across the top of the dresser using a pencil you can erase with ease or wash off with soap and water.

Slide the dresser out of the way for a moment.

Mark the center of the studs on the wall with a pencil about two inches LOWER than the top of the dresser and extend these lines up the wall so they're just above the top of the dresser.

Slide the dresser against the wall where you want it.

Transfer the pencil marks that are the center of the studs to the top of the dresser using a faint pencil mark.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from handymen in your city or town to do this project NOW.

Slide the dresser away from the wall and use a small torpedo level to make lines down the back of the dresser that represent the center of the wall studs.

Remove the top drawer(s) from the dresser.

Use a 5/16-inch drill bit and drill two holes through the back of the dresser about 2 inches down from the top. Drill from the back of the dresser. Don't put the drill inside the dresser trying to guess where the holes should be, that's way too hard.

Slide the dresser back into position on the wall making sure the pencil lines on top line up with those on the wall!!!

Put your arm inside the dresser and insert a pencil into the holes in the back of the dresser to make two small dots or circles ON THE PENCIL LINES that are on the wall.

Use a 3/16-inch drill bit to drill into the wall at the two marks making sure you hit solid wood. Drill the holes 2 inches deep.

Get two 1/4-inch lag bolts that are 2.5 inches long as well as flat washers. Insert them from the inside of the dresser so they poke out the back.

Line the bolts up with the holes you drilled into the wall and start to spin them clockwise.

Use a socket wrench to tighten the bolts into the pre-drilled holes in the wall and tighten so the dresser will not move.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from handymen in your city or town to do this project NOW.

Cabinet Knobs

Posted on January 9, 2017 by Tim Carter

Cabinet Knobs Secrets and Tips

Function more important than form
Knob location must be comfortable
Best location 2.5 to 3 inches from door corner to center of knob
Templates can create errors if not used properly - SEE BELOW
CLICK HERE to subscribe to Tim's FREE Newsletter

DEAR TIM: I am struggling with cabinet knobs on my new kitchen cabinets. The cabinet knob placement has me scratching my head. How do you know where to place kitchen cabinet knobs and pulls? Should I use cabinet knob backplates? Can you tell me the proper way how to position cabinet knobs? Lois M., Canton, GA

DEAR LOIS: You are by no means the first person to struggle with cabinet knobs. I have seen knobs placed in all sort of places on cabinet doors, but there is a standard many carpenters seem to follow that has worked well for me and many of my customers over the years.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from finish carpenters to install cabinet knobs for you.

cabinet pulls being installed

Function First

Cabinet knobs are a great example of a utilitarian item found in just about every home that is a crossover between function and form. The knob performs a very important job by allowing you to easily open a cabinet door. But at the same time, the knob needs to look good , and more importantly, its placement on the door must look right.

I am a huge proponent of function being more important than form. When you think about cabinet knob placement, you want the knobs at a height where they are comfortable to reach, and they provide the greatest amount of physical advantage or leverage when opening the door.

Easy Open

The farther away the knob is from the hinge, the less effort you need to open the door. You can prove this easily by placing a knob on an old cabinet door. Put the knob in the center of the door and you will quickly see it takes far more effort to open the door than if the knob is on the outer edge of the cabinet door frame away from the hinge.

Small Target

The cabinet knobs for kitchen wall cabinets seem to work very well when they are placed somewhere between 2.5 and 3 inches up from the lower corner of the cabinet door opposite the hinge side of the door. Since many cabinet doors have frames that surround a raised decorative panel, center the knob on the frame or flat area of the frame. Many cabinet door designs are different, so carefully look at the knob on the door before you make the final decision.

The cabinet knobs for kitchen base cabinets are placed somewhere between 2.5 and 3 inches down from the upper corner opposite the hinge side of the door. When knobs are placed in these locations, you will discover that your hand comfortably can grab them without your arm stretching.

This is a set for both doors and drawers. CLICK THE IMAGE to BUY IT NOW.

Backplates

Cabinet knob backplates can be very useful. They often prevent dirt and grease from fouling the cabinet door finish. Some people do not like the look of backplates, as they can make the cabinet door look hardware heavy. I would suggest testing one to see how it looks on your cabinet door. Install a knob with a backplate on one door and then a knob on another door nearby and see which one makes you feel better.

You can use a tape measure and a pencil to make a mark on the cabinet door showing you where to drill the hole for the screw that holds the knob in place. But let my voice of experience tell you that this can be dangerous.

Templates

If you are tired, distracted or just make a mistake, a knob will end up in the wrong place. It is better to use a template that fits over the corner of the door. The face of the template has a hole in it at the precise location where the knob will be. You then trace the outline of the hole with a pencil and drill a perfectly-located hole each time.

cabinet hardware fixture template

Plastic templates can be purchased at many hardware stores, home centers or fine hardware stores where you can buy premium cabinet knobs. The plastic templates are inexpensive and allow you to drill holes in the template for different locations to match your final decision on cabinet knob placement. I prefer to place masking tape over any extra holes so that only the hole I want to use is open. This prevents errors.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from finish carpenters to install cabinet knobs for you.

Right Screw Length

Be sure to use the proper length screws for cabinet knobs. The fastener must penetrate into the knob a minimum of 1/4 inch. Be careful when tightening the screws. Use screwdrivers that fit into the screw slot tightly. If the screw driver slips as you twist that final partial turn, the screwdriver can slip off the screw and scratch the inside of the cabinet door.

IMPORTANT TIP: Drilling the hole for the knob should be done very carefully. The drill bit should be the same diameter of the screw or possibly larger by only 1/64th an inch.

Drill from the front of the cabinet door to the back, but apply minimal pressure as you complete the hole. If you push too hard as you drill, the drill bit will explode out the back of the cabinet door leaving an ugly mess of splinters and chips of wood. Often the screw head will not cover the damage.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from finish carpenters to install cabinet knobs for you.

Column 658

Water Leak Under Porch

Posted on January 9, 2017 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I’ve got water leaking and infiltrating the underside of my front porch. My house is about ten years old. The porch has a roof over it with a decent overhang, but the floor system is regular wood joists covered with plywood. The contractor installed a waterproof layer over the plywood, then ceramic tile filled with urethane grout. The ceramic tile overlaps row-lock brick at the edges of the porch. What could have possibly gone wrong and how can it be fixed? How would you have built this porch if you were the builder? Steve G., Ellicott City, MD

DEAR STEVE: I’m really sorry you’re having these water leak issues with your front porch. You’ve got a real mess on your hands and I’m afraid I’ve got distressing news from you based on all the photos you sent me. You’re going to have to demolish everything and start over.

I’m fortunate to be old enough to have worked on many older homes that had wood front porches that stood the test of time and were built somewhat similar to yours. The big difference was the materials used and the method of construction. In fact, the second home I owned had a wood front porch. This house was about eighty years old when I purchased it and the porch had virtually no rot even though it was open on three sides and had a roof overhang similar to yours.

The reason why my porch lumber didn’t rot was because the wood for the porch decking was tongue and groove vertical grain wood that not only sloped away from the house, but the individual boards were also installed so the interlocking tongues and grooves pointed away from the house. These decking boards overhung the porch fascia and framing by about 3 inches.

The wood joists under the porch and the tongue and groove decking were old-growth timber that had about a 50-50 ratio of summer wood to spring wood. This high concentration of dense dark-grained summer wood made the wood very rot resistant. The wood decking was also painted and the paint was always kept in good shape.

The wood used to build your home and front porch deck has been hybridized so it grows fast. As such it has a much higher concentration of the lighter-colored spring wood in the annual growth bands. This spring wood is very susceptible to wood rot because it’s not nearly as dense as the dark summer wood. The darker bands of summer wood are so dense they have a hard time absorbing water.

I feel the contractor who built your porch didn’t have a full understanding of how water migrates through and around building materials. At the very least, the plywood deck should have been covered with the best ice and water shield product that seals to itself and just about anything it touches once it heats up. This membrane needed to lap up on the walls of the house next to the porch and then lap over the finished exterior wall surfaces below the porch. Properly installed this membrane would have created a waterproof barrier over the wood framing system.

So long as the wood-framed porch had a slope built into it allowing it to shed water to the outside of the building, any water that penetrated through the tile floor, around the waterproof substrate under the tile and around the large corner support column would have just eventually made it to the outside and never touched the wood. But don’t underestimate how hard it is to install a membrane like this and have it work.

You also were inviting all sorts of issues with any connections between porch railing supports and the porch floor. Each one of these is a possible entry point for water.

While it’s impossible in this small amount of space to share all construction details, had I been the builder on the job I would have tried to convince you to install a properly flashed poured concrete porch floor that rested on masonry foundation walls on all sides of the porch. The technology to do this and prevent water infiltration into the storage space below has been known for decades. The house I grew up in had a poured concrete porch with a roof over it. It was exposed on three sides and the storage room below never had a drop of water in it.

If you resisted using concrete, then I would have insisted that the entire wood system that was installed be all treated lumber, including the plywood decking. As you know, treated lumber can resist wood rot quite well. Many people are unaware that you can purchase sheets of treated plywood. It’s readily available at traditional lumber yards near you.

The porch would have had a slope to it so any water that hits the plywood drains away from the house. I would have made sure the waterproof membrane that was applied to the plywood overlapped another waterproof membrane that was on any wood-framed walls that might support the porch floor. Picture how a traditional asphalt shingle roof works where one shingle overlaps another and works with gravity to keep a house dry. You need to do the same thing to waterproof any wood-framed structure including walls and floors.

The final finished flooring of the porch would have been installed and it would have overlapped the exterior lower section of the porch by 3 inches. I would have made sure there was a drip kerf in the underside of the overhanging material so water would not run back to the vertical walls.

January 8, 2017 AsktheBuilder Newsletter

Posted on January 9, 2017 by Tim Carter

I've got some great news for you. In fact, I'd love your input.

A month ago, I was in California and had a meeting with a friendly competitor of mine, Don Vandervort and his son Kit. Don owns the website hometips.com.

We were talking about how we could help one another, and Don suggested something that my oldest daughter Meghan had talked to me about, are you sitting down? Seven years ago.

Meghan and Don suggested that I go back into each old page at my website and refresh the content and add a small bullet-point list at the top of each page telling you the most important stuff.

It's a daunting project. You're talking about thousands of pages of content. This is one reason I shirked away from the task.

I started doing that two days ago and made some good progress. It's going to take months of work chipping away at it about two hours a day, but I've decided to do it.

How is this going to help you?

I've been astonished at some of the content I wrote twenty years ago that I've not looked at but is very relevant to saving you TIME and MONEY today.

As you might expect, there's new information to be added to quite a few columns because I've been exposed to more data, new products and more life experience of my own.

For example, I used to feel really great about asphalt shingles. In the past 16 months, I've discovered some very shielded information about these products and my opinion has changed 180 degrees.

That's why I wrote my Roofing Ripoff book that should be ready for you in about seven weeks.

Here's what I'm going to do now each issue of the newsletter.

I'm going to publish the headline of each page and make it a link. You'll see the first list below.

I recommend that you open each page and scan the bullet-point list. But realize there's MUCH MORE goodness below the list!

I GUARANTEE you that you'll save a boatload of money and time doing this. Plus, I've included all sorts of new links in these revised columns to new products and tools I love that will help you.

For example, are you getting ready to remodel a bathroom or kitchen or some other place where you don't want the drywall to get ruined by water or water vapor?

Then CLICK HERE to read about a SECRET TRICK I discovered that can make drywall almost completely immune from water damage caused by splashing or direct contact, not flooding mind you!

Asphalt Shingle Warranty Survey

This coming week I'll put in the latest information into my Roofing Ripoff book and it will be done as far as I'm concerned.

But I need one last thing from you. It's very important.

Please CLICK HERE and take a survey. You'll be able to see how your answers compare to everyone else's once you click the Submit button.

CLICK IMAGE BELOW to get SWEET DEALS on Power Tools!

Five Contractor Hiring HACKS

A month ago I created a new page at my website for your benefit.

The inspiration for it comes from the daily avalanche of emails I get from people who get burned during a construction project.

The most common root cause is: HOPE

You, almost always, HOPE that everything is going to go well and you HOPE the contractor will treat you like you treat others.

Hope is the emotion of last resort.

You hope for things you can't control like the weather and if you might get rescued from a deserted island.

You CAN CONTROL your destiny when it comes to working with a contractor.

CLICK HERE, read the five simple hacks and you'll have a huge advantage next time you hire a contractor.

BTW, a contractor friend of mine here in New Hampshire saw this list and really objected to Hack #4. Go look to see what it covers. I guarantee you'll discover something new there.

REVISED Columns at AsktheBuilder.com

Okay, here's a list for you of some of the columns I've revised.

I'm serious when I say you should CLICK EACH ONE if for no other reason to see the bullet-point list. Have fun!

Flexible Gas Lines - I've Got Them in my NH House!

HVAC Return Air Ducting - A MUST READ!!!!

Sewer Gas Smell - Don't Skip This One!

Deicing SALTS and CONCRETE - A MUST READ!!!!!

DIY Toilet Repair Tips to SAVE You BIG $$$$$$

How to Paint Ceramic Tile & it LASTS - SECRET TIPS

I did about ten other ones, but that's enough for you for now. Tell me if you like the bullet list at the top.

Don't forget to take the Asphalt Shingle Warranty Survey!

More Tips Soon.

Tim Carter
Founder - www.AsktheBuilder.com

Do It Right, Not Over!

Caulk Removal TIPS

Silicone Caulk Remover Video

How to Remove Caulk Video

Why Does Mildew Grow on Caulk?

How Do I Stop Mildew on Caulk?

How Can I Dry Off the Caulk?

What is the Best Caulk Remover?

How Do You Use Liquid Caulk Removers?

What is a Good Caulk Removal Tool?

Are There DIY Caulk-Removal Liquids?

How To Remove Silicone Caulk

What is the Best Caulk to Use?

Plumbing Vent Pipe TIPS

Can I Install My Own Plumbing Vent Pipe?

What Happens When Water Flows Down Drain Pipes?

Are Vacuums in Plumbing Drains Bad?

What is the normal size of most vent pipes?

Can a Plumbing Vent Pipe be Small?

Should I Vent All Fixtures?

Are Studor Vents a Bad Idea?

Can Ice Choke Off Vent Pipe Air?

Do I Need a Full-Sized Vent Pipe?

How Does a Heat Pump Work?

Do Heat Pumps Work Best at 50F?

What Happens When The Temperature Drops?

Do Heat Pumps Create Cold Heat?

Are All Heat Pumps the Same Efficiency?

What are the Newer Heat Pump SEER Regulations?

Can SEER Numbers Be Misleading?

Why is Freon-22 No Longer Available?

Do New Refrigerants Operate at Higher Pressures?

Who Pays the Cost For The New Regulations?

Drilling Into Stucco TIPS

Tankless Water Heater TIPS

Tankless Heaters Expensive!

More Energy Efficient, But...

Installation Cost is HIGH

Many Years for ROI

Vacation Mode

Great Machines

Dresser Falls on Twins - Bolt Your Dresser to the Wall

Cabinet Knobs Secrets and Tips

Expert Advice For Your Home