Caring For Marble And Installation Tips

Natural stone products are by far some of the most impressive building materials that I am aware of. I believe that the reason for this lies in the fact that imitation material is just that, imitation. The look, feel, density, and hardness of natural products is almost impossible to duplicate. A manufacturer may be able to improve one aspect, however, the other attributes usually fall short of the real product.

Take granite for instance. Granite counter tops are increasingly popular. The manufacturers of solid surface (plastic) countertops picked up on this trend and many offer "granite" substitutes. If you put the two materials side by side, there is absolutely no comparison. The natural granite has deeper colors, larger crystals, and often a more random pattern. In all fairness to the solid surfacing materials (which, by the way, I like very much), they have other positive attributes that make them attractive.

Marble vs. Granite

I have installed both marble and granite on many of my past jobs. Both have performed well. Marble, far and away, is a much softer material than granite. This has to do with the composition of the materials. Marble is nothing more than limestone which has been "pressure-cooked" deep in the earth for many, many years. Granite is often an igneous rock that has a high concentration of the mineral quartz. Quartz, silicon dioxide (SiO2), is very hard. It is comparable to standard glass, as glass is composed primarily of silicone dioxide.

Both materials will last a lifetime if professionally installed and maintained. The only disadvantage that I find with both products is that they are difficult to repair if damaged. Scratches, as long as they are not too deep, can be buffed out without noticeable appearance changes. Large chips, on the other hand, are virtually impossible to repair. Think of it, how do you recreate a matrix of random quartz crystals? Or, how do you recreate exactly the color and swirl pattern of a piece of marble?

Slate vs. Terrazzo

Slate is a natural stone product that is very beautiful as well. I have mottled (mixture of greens, browns, and purples) slate in my entrance hall. I have red slate in my sun room. Both floors are durable and stain resistant. The slate comes in different size pieces ranging from 4" x 6" to 12" x 12". They fit together in a regular pattern, however, when the floor is finished the pattern appears random. The slate that I used is only 1/4" thick, however, it gives the appearance of being much thicker. The joints between the slate are simply grouted with standard colored sanded grout just like ceramic tile. Slate, when purchased like this, is also very affordable.

Terrazzo is a very unique flooring alternative. Used primarily in commercial applications, it offers unlimited design and color variations. Terrazzo is comprised of small (usually 1/4 - 3/8 inch) marble chips. By mixing different colored marble chips in different proportions, you can create virtually any colored floor. Also, terrazzo is usually installed in blocks separated by aluminum or brass strips. As you might imagine, you can create any pattern with the metal strips and then fill each block or area with a different mixture of marble chips! You can make a giant checkerboard on your floor or a compass rosette. Let your imagination run wild.

Terrazzo is a very messy product to work with and requires special subfloors in order to achieve maximum performance. For instance, in commercial applications terrazzo is virtually always installed on concrete slabs. The subfloor must be solid so that the terrazzo will not crack. If you decide to have terrazzo applied over a wood sub-floor system, make sure that the floor is framed with little or no deflection (large floor joists such as 2x10's or 2x12's with plentiful bridging) and use 3/4 inch plywood, NOT oriented strand board products. It is always best to consult with the terrazzo installer BEFORE the floor is framed, if at all possible. Let him (her) tell you what the minimum requirements are for a solid wood sub-floor system. Also, use epoxy terrazzo.

Terrazzo costs here in Cincinnati are about $10 per square foot installed. That compares with $6 per square foot for hardwood floors and $7 - 9 per square foot for ceramic tile.

Whichever product you choose to install, as long as you follow the installer's care instructions, you will be rewarded with a floor that will generate many compliments!


Marble, Granite, & Terrazzo Care Tips

Marble, terrazzo, and granite require special cleaning and periodic sealing to maintain their beauty. The problem, however, is that there are different procedures for different stones. No one procedure is safe for all stone products. There is a very real danger that you can ruin a piece of marble, terrazzo, or granite permanently if not cleaned correctly. For this reason, you must not try to experiment yourself with cleaners or polishes. Also, don't necessarily believe the labels on cleaning products, note who wrote the label!!!

Do NOT clean natural stone products with vinegar, ammonia, or kitchen cleansers! Marble, granite, & other stone products must be cleaned with neutral pH cleaners. Vinegar is actually an acid! Ammonia is a base! Cleansers can scratch stone products.

Marble is an alkaline substance. Its surface can be harmed and stained by acids, even very dilute acids. Many common foods and beverages are acidic! Citrus juices, alcohol, vinegar, and other common items can etch the surface of marble. Spills need to be cleaned immediately! If your marble or granite becomes stained, call a professional. Different stones require different treatments!

Natural stone products need to be sealed to minimize staining possibilities. However, you must use a breathable sealant. Do not apply certain waxes! Some waxes do not breathe and they can discolor over time.

Marble, because it is a softer stone, should be maintained at least once a year. Remember that stone is very similar to wood. It is porous and can and will absorb liquids. Just as wood requires periodic recoating, so does marble, terrazzo, and granite. Marble and terrazzo, however, tend to require more maintenance than granite. Granite, because it is much harder, requires somewhat less attention.

ALWAYS obtain from the installer of your marble, terrazzo, and/or granite specific, written care and maintenance guidelines. Never trust your builder's or remodeler's word. These products require very specific care and the supplier or installer knows what is best. Go to the source!!

Contact the HMK Company. They manufacture a full line of stone care products. They quite possibly have a distributor near you. Ask for their full line product catalog. You can reach them at 800-424-2465. They are located in San Francisco, so keep in mind their west coast time zone.


Design & Installation Suggestions

Design Possibilities

Marble, granite, and slate have many uses. I have seen them all used for floors, countertops, backsplashes, fireplace hearths, fireplace surrounds, tabletops, windowsills, components for free standing woodstoves, etc.

Slate fireplace hearths are dramatic. Granite kitchen countertops can be breathtaking. I installed a Blue Pearl granite countertop in conjunction with some solid white cabinets. The result was spectacular. I have also installed a fine grained midnight black granite vanity countertop that left the homeowner speechless. The vanity top had undercounter bowls in white that gave an unbelievable contrast.

Because of the growth of the use of these products, the fabricators have at their disposal many tools to shape the stone products. They can create various edge treatments for countertops similar to those found in solid surfacing materials. Fabricators also have special epoxies that enable them to glue multiple or different types of marble and granite together. By combining different, yet complimentary, stones together in one piece, you can achieve dramatic results.


Installation Tips

All professional jobs involve planning. You should do the same if you want maximum performance from your products. Marble, granite, terrazzo, and other natural stone products require preplanning before installation. Often the subfloor or cabinets need to be strengthened to support any extra weight.

Because stone is very rigid, it has one drawback. All stone products have very little tensile strength. This means that when "stretched" they will crack easily. Stone can "stretch" if it is allowed to bend. Stone will bend if it is unsupported (hollow spots) or is laid on top of something that periodically moves (weak wood floors that deflect when loaded with people or things). So, make sure that you plan ahead.

Never hesitate to consult a structural engineer or supplier to determine the minimum strength requirements for your application. Cracks in stone work are impossible to repair!

Column B56

AsktheBuilder on YouTube Video

AsktheBuilder.com's Tim Carter invites you to watch his informative and entertaining videos on YouTube. From remodeling tips to building advice, he has the information you need.

Watch his video tips and project suggestions at www.youtube-nocookie.com/askthebuilder. While you are there, be sure to subscribe to his channel. Videos that will save you time and money are being added all the time at YouTube - Broadcast Yourself.

Water Heater Anode Rods

"Tank corrosion is the #1 cause of water heater failure. Keeping a water heater anode rod in good shape prevents failure."

Water Heater Anode Rod Checklist

  • the anode rod is hidden in the tank
  • it sacrifices itself to save the tank
  • it must be replaced every seven years
  • water heater can last forever if you replace the rod regularly

Water Heater Anode Rod - Replace Every Seven Years

The water heater anode rod you can't see is why you have delightful hot water in your home. There's nothing quite like that warm shower in the morning or after a hard day's work.

Do you take hot water for granted? We use it throughout the day for bathing, washing dishes, clothes, etc. It has become a necessary element of our lives.

Related Links

Tough Love Truth About Tankless Water Heaters - DO NOT SHARE! Angry Companies

Venting Water Heaters - Do it the SAFE WAY

Free & Fast Bids

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers who can install a new anode rod.

Where are Anode Rods?

A water heater anode rod is suspended inside the water heater tank. The anode rod protects the water heater from corrosion.

aluminum anode rod

This is a replacement anode rod made from both aluminum and zinc. It prevents the rotten egg smell you get with magnesium anode rods. It's in sections so you can get it into the tank with a low ceiling above the water heater. CLICK THE PHOTO to have a new anode rod at your home in two days.

Water heaters are very simple mechanical items. They have virtually no moving parts. Electric water heaters have very small switches that turn the current on and off automatically to each heating element.

Gas water heaters have small parts within the gas valve that control gas flow when it is necessary for the burner to cycle on or off. Rarely do these moving parts fail.

Why Do Water Heaters Leak?

Tank corrosion is the #1 cause of water heater leakage and failure. Keeping an anode rod in good shape prevents failure.

High-pressure failures are also becoming a problem as well. Both of these problems can be somewhat controlled. You simply need to consider several alternatives before you install your next hot water heater.

What Causes Corrosion in a Water Heater?

Corrosion within hot water heaters can be caused by water acidity, electrical conductivity, dissolved oxygen, and temperature. Water can react chemically with metal parts inside of the water heater.

Acidic water can actually eat away at the metal. This corrosion process is accelerated with temperature. So as we heat the water for our usage, we actually can hurt the tank!

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers who can install a new anode rod.

When Did Water Heaters Get Glass Linings?

Water heater manufacturers began lining the steel tanks with a thin coating of glass in the 1950s. This coating isolated the steel tank from the corrosive water.

Any part of the water heater tank not coated with glass is a place where corrosion can begin.

The inlet and outlet holes of the tank are not glass coated. These areas are subject to corrosion.

Are Gas Heaters Likely to Corrode Faster?

Gas water heaters are likely to corrode faster. Every time the burner turns on it heats the metal at the bottom of the tank. This heat causes the metal to expand.

When the burner shuts off, the metal contracts. This constant expansion and contraction weakens the metal at the bottom of the tank. It can also cause microfractures in the glass lining. Water can then get in contact with the bottom of the tank and begin the corrosion process.

Do Dissolved Minerals in Water Cause Problems?

Yes, dissolved minerals in water allow the water to conduct electricity. The electricity accelerates corrosion of the steel water heater tank.

Distilled water, on the other hand, is virtually pure water. The distillation process removes the dissolved minerals. However, it also loses its taste. Dissolved minerals give water its taste.

Is Pure Water an Insulator?

Pure water (100 percent H2O) is actually an insulator. Electricity will not pass thru it easily.

However, water which contains dissolved minerals is a great conductor. Electricity passes readily thru this type of water. That's why household water (as well as ocean, river, lake, etc. water) poses an electrocution hazard. Almost all water in nature contains dissolved minerals.

Does Mineral Content in Water Vary?

Depending upon the source of the water supply, the dissolved mineral content can be high, medium, or low. Also, there will be different minerals present.

What Causes Electricity in a Water Heater?

The heating of water within a water heater and the motion of the water cause tiny electrical currents to be generated within the water heater. These electrical currents start to eat away at any exposed metal.

That's why water heaters have anode rods as a part of their construction. The anode rods attract the electricity like nectar attracts bees. The anode rods sacrifice themselves so the water tank doesn't corrode.

What Are Water Heater Anode Rods Made With?

These anode rods are made of magnesium. The magnesium attracts the electrical current and corrodes more easily than the steel tank. Some anode rods are made with aluminum and zinc. This type will prevent the rotten egg smell you sometimes get with a magnesium anode rod.

CLICK HERE to have a replacement anode rod at your home in days.

However, if the anode rod completely dissolves, the electricity within the tank will begin to look for some other metal. That's why you need to check your anode rod periodically.

What is the Difference Between Hard and Soft Water?

Many people know the difference between hard and soft water. Hard water is water that has a high amount of dissolved minerals. When hard water is heated, some of these minerals can precipitate out of the water and form a scale on the inside of the water heater.

Can Scale Collect in a Water Heater Tank?

This scale can flake off and begin to collect on the bottom of the tank. This lowers the efficiency of the water heater by acting as a barrier to the flow of heat from the burner to the water.

This scale can also corrode heating elements on electric hot water heaters in a very short period of time. Friends of mine have had to replace electric heating elements every 3 months because of this problem.

Does Electrolysis Damage Water Heaters?

Electrolysis causes damage to your water heater tank. Iron is the primary metal used to construct hot water tanks. You can see this iron at the top of the tank where the hot and cold water pipes attach to your heater.

Often rookie plumbers or homeowners simply install a copper male adapter into the female iron tank fittings. This metal to metal contact of two dissimilar metals can lead to corrosion.

These connection points need to be isolated "electrically" from the water pipes. There are several different connectors made for this purpose. I, personally, choose to use di-electric unions. Good Luck!

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers who can install a new anode rod.

This column was SO GOOD that I shared with the 31,000 subscribers who read my August 7, 2018 AsktheBuilder Newsletter under making your water heater last.

Column B192

Residential Fire Sprinklers

I have always been fascinated with fire sprinklers. It goes way back into my childhood. My mother would take me shopping to a major department store in downtown Cincinnati called Shillito's. As we would ride the escalators between floors, I would always stare at the fire sprinkler heads above me.

Maybe, it was the colored liquid in the glass vials that grabbed my attention. It could also have been their shiny appearance, as most of them were polished chrome. All I can remember is that there were hundreds of these things sticking down from the ceiling just about everywhere.

I didn't fully understand the importance of them as a child. No doubt Mr. Shillito did, though. The sprinklers were put in to save his business. He quite possibly was encouraged to do so by his insurance company.

To this day, there has never been a catastrophic fire in this building. Oh sure, there probably have been fires, maybe they were reported deep within the newspapers. But, the sprinklers probably extinguished them or controlled the fires before the fire department ran into the building.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local specialists who can install a sprinkler system to protect your home from fire.

Fire & Mathematics

If you have an adequate supply of combustible materials, an unlimited amount of oxygen, a match, a watch, and pencil and paper, you can witness a sobering display. The growth of a fire is rapid. If you could effectively measure the amount of fire (this can be done by scientists), you would see that the size of the fire doubles, triples, or quadruples in size but yet the time that has passed has not doubled, tripled, or quadrupled. Mathematicians call this a non linear function. Professional firefighters call it a recipe for death and destruction.

If you pay attention to eye witness accounts of the spread and or growth of fires, you know that this is true. Often you here of people who say that, "...all of a sudden there was fire everywhere. Just moments before I was in the room and there was nothing going on."

I visited a residential house that had been heavily damaged by fire just about one year ago. This fire started near the furnace in the basement. A mother, child, and a painter were in the house. The painter was working in the living room, while the mother and child were in the basement family room, just 10 feet away from the furnace room.

The painter noticed faint smoke issuing from a heating vent. He went to the basement to inform the mother and child. They opened the door to the furnace room. It was filled with smoke and fire.

They ran out of the house to a neighbor. The neighbor called 911. The closest firehouse was less than 600 feet away! All of what I described so far happened in 3 minutes. The fire department responded immediately and began to extinguish the fire.

The house was heavily damaged by fire. Well over $100,000. I walked through the house the day after the fire. The telephone in the kitchen had melted from the heat. The shower curtain in the second floor bathroom had melted, yet there was no fire on the second floor.

The second floor area was full of ash, heavy smoke, and steam damage. Virtually all of the possessions of this family were ruined! Fortunately, everyone got out of the house unhurt. Think what might have happened if this fire had occurred at 2:30 a.m.??

Sprinklers

In the story I just described, I forgot to mention that a water pipe was only 10 feet away from the furnace. A plumber could have installed a simple $8.00 sprinkler head in the furnace room. This sprinkler would have begun to discharge water as soon as the temperature would have reached 155 degrees F in the furnace room.

Do you think that would have helped? I thought so. How much would it have cost to install? Maybe $150 if you had a plumber do it. A DIY'er with plumbing experience could do it for less than $20.

If building a new home or remodeling, fire sprinklers should be given serious consideration. New residential fire sprinklers are sleek, attractive, and available in different finishes. They bear no resemblance to their cousins that I used to see at Shillito's.

You will receive a healthy discount on your house insurance. You will have peace of mind. They can save lives and property. I urge you to think about this. TC

Fire Sprinkler Information Sources

Residential fire sprinklers have received very little attention. This is unfortunate, because they can dramatically increase your chances of survival in a fire. They also go a long way in limiting damage caused by a fire. Sprinklers simply make sense.

The following Associations offer free literature concerning residential fire sprinklers. This information is fantastic. All you have to do is call or write them a letter asking for the information. You will be delighted with the amount and quality of the literature.

If you want a really dramatic example of the effectiveness of residential sprinklers, I highly recommend that you consider purchasing a 35 minute video produced by the National Fire Sprinkler Association (NFSA). I contacted the NFSA and they indicated that they would offer this video to readers of my column for the same price they sell it to their members. The cost to you, for the video, is only $29.95. It normally sells for $59.95!

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local specialists who can install a sprinkler system to protect your home from fire.

This video will convince you, in all likelihood, to install sprinklers. I was amazed at how quickly the sprinklers work! This $30 expenditure is well worth it. If you decide to purchase this video, MAKE SURE you identify yourself as a reader of my column. Also, mention the name of Mr. David Van Deyar. He is the NFSA individual who authorized the reduced price of the video. Maybe an NFSA member will rebate the cost of the video to you should you choose him as the installation contractor. Consider giving it a try. It never hurts to ask.

  • National Fire Sprinkler Association
    Robin Hill Corporate Park
    Route 22
    Patterson, New York 12563
    914-878-4200
    Fax 914-878-4215
  • American Fire Sprinkler Association
    12959 Jupiter Road, Suite 142
    Dallas, Texas 75238-3200
    214-349-5965
    Fax 214-343-8898

Contact both of these organizations. They have different literature, all of which is very helpful. Also, if after you review the information you have questions, consider speaking with an official of your local fire department. They can possibly offer helpful advice as well.

If you would like some technical information regarding the installation guidelines of residential sprinklers, contact the National Fire Protection Association. Ask for NFPA 13D (1994 edition) Sprinkler Systems in One - and Two-Family Dwellings and Manufactured Homes.

This is the standard by which sprinkler systems are installed. This bulletin speaks to sizing, spacing, flow rates, etc. It will allow you to judge whether or not your system is being installed properly. Note, there may be a charge for this publication.

  • National Fire Protection Association
    1 Batterymarch Park
    P.O. Box 9101
    Quincy, Massachusetts 02269-9101
    617-770-0200
    Ms. Julie Reynolds


Residential Fire Prevention Tips

Many people are unaware as to how quickly a fire can reach deadly proportions. In as little as 7 - 10 minutes after ignition, a residential fire can produce carbon monoxide, smoke and temperatures that can kill within seconds. If you are asleep while the fire is in progress, you may not even have a chance to escape!!!

Many people often think that fires can't happen to them. If you are one of these people, I suggest you walk or drive down to your fire department just as soon as you finish reading this. Ask them to tell you about the most recent fatality in your neighborhood.

I'll bet that you will be shocked as to how recent and how close it was to your house. Those who have a healthy respect for fire and its dangers practice fire prevention. They have evacuation plans. They are prepared. You should do the same.

Call 1-800-950-7665 just as soon as you can. It is the Fire Prevention hotline of Aetna Insurance. They will take your name & address and send you a wonderful fire prevention pamphlet - worksheet. This phone call may save your life or one of a loved one. Please do it now before you read any further. Thanks!

All of the fire prevention tips that I would speak to are mentioned in this fine pamphlet. Call for it today. It is illustrated and shows a drawing of each item they speak about. Consider giving the 1-800 number to as many people, friends, relatives, neighbors, etc. as possible. Everyone will thank you.

Also, call your local fire department. Virtually every fire department in America has a fire prevention division. They often have excellent literature as well. The fire department will, in many cases, visit your house at no charge to do a visual inspection. They will point out your problem areas. They will help you establish an evacuation plan.

Want more information on the importance and use of Fire Sprinkler systems? CLICK THE IMAGE to get the ultimate guide to Fire Sprinklers.

Ask the fire department about explosive flashovers, backdrafts, etc. Ask them about temperatures inside of houses and rooms that are on fire. Ask them about their self-contained breathing apparatus (SCBA). Ask them about visibility (or lack thereof) in residential fires because of smoke.

Ask them about their response time in the event of a fire at your house(the elapsed time from the initial 911 call until the first truck arrives at the fire scene). Ask them how long it takes to get hoses stretched and charged with water once they have arrived at your house. Make sure they are answering the questions regarding your house, NOT average response times to all fires in your city or town.

After you have added up all the time, look at your watch and see just how long this period of time really is. Think. Could you survive or wait that long? How much damage will have occurred in that time period? Don't forget, these times assume that you had time to make the call before exiting the burning structure!!!

NOTE: FIRE DEPARTMENTS DO NOT RECOMMEND THAT YOU STAY IN THE BURNING HOUSE TO MAKE THE CALL!!!! In the event of a fire in your home, EXIT YOUR HOUSE IMMEDIATELY and make the call from a neighbor's house!!!

Fire Sprinkler Manufacturers Consider giving these manufacturers a call. They have excellent product literature about residential fire sprinklers. You will be amazed at how attractive and effective these things really are. You can bet that when I remodel my house, I will install fire sprinklers! TC

  • Globe Fire Sprinkler Corp.
    800-248-0278
  • Grinnell Fire Protection
    401-941-8000
  • IntelliNet
    813-434-5888
  • Star Sprinkler Corp.
    800-558-5236
  • The Viking Corp.
    800-968-9501

Installing Sprinkler Heads - Piping

Installing fire sprinkler heads is not really too hard. In a residential installation, it can be accomplished by using standard copper tubing, fittings and solder. At the location where each sprinkler head is located, all you have to do is solder in place what we call a female adapter. Virtually, all sprinkler heads come with male threads.

Sizing the System

You have to make sure you have the right size pipe for the sprinklers to work. If you run 3/4 inch pipe to all but the last few remaining sprinkler heads, you will be okay. You can get a great booklet from the NFPA on sizing sprinkler systems. It was mentioned earlier in this column.

If you make the mistake of installing piping that is too small - such as 1/2 inch everywhere - you can have significant pressure loss and low flow when you really need it. The booklet from the NFPA will help you with this.

Wet Systems

Sprinkler systems come two ways - wet and dry. The system in a residential house will almost always be wet. This means that the pipes leading to the sprinklers are full of water. With this in mind, you just can't install the pipes anywhere - especially if you live where you get freezing temperatures.

If you want to see how easy it is to install a sprinkler head, I suggest you start in your basement or furnace room or anywhere you have an exposed copper water line.

Simply solder in a Tee fitting and extend the line to a point in the ceiling where you can protect part of the room. Install the proper sized female adapter that fits the sprinkler head. Apply pipe dope or Teflon to the sprinkler head, tighten and turn the water back on.

If you have any sort of leak, you will know immediately. If you are daring or inquisitive, you can hold a match to the head and see what happens in a real fire! Wear a bathing suit!

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local specialists who can install a sprinkler system to protect your home from fire.

Column B34

Tape Measure Video

Tape Measure Video

Most home improvement or remodeling jobs require measuring. Some people have asked how to use or read a tape measure. The majority of tape measures are marked in feet and inches. The individual inches are broken down into fractions - 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 and 1/16. Each division is represented by a smaller and smaller line, with the 1/2 inch mark being the largest.

Some tape measures have color coded marking indicating the 16" on-center spacing. Be careful when reading a tape measure upside down.

Remember, take your time, measure twice and cut once!

Circular Saw Blades Video

Circular saw blades are not all created equal. To achieve the right cut, you need the right blade for your circular saw. Blades are designed to cut metal, wood, plastics or ceramic tile or stone.

Some saw blades have no teeth, but have small diamonds on the edge for cutting. A blade with fine teeth are good for plywood with fewer splinters.

Carbide blades with 30 teeth are good for cutting thin metal and rough lumber. An 18 tooth carbide teeth saw blade is good for rough cuts in framing lumber.

Remember match the right saw blade for your cutting job.

Non-Woven Wallpaper Video

Non-woven wallpaper is reusable! Non-woven wallpaper does not expand when the adhesive is contacted with the back. These are huge time savers, because there is no need to book the paper while you are working on another piece. You apply the adhesive to the wall with a roller or brush. Then place the dry wallpaper right onto the adhesive. Use regular wallpaper tools to make sure that the wallpaper is tight to the wall. A wallpaper brush to smooth the paper so it lies flat against the wall. A short bristled brush works best.

To trim the wallpaper at a inside corner, push the paper in with your finger. Then take a wide blade knife to hold the paper against the corner. Use a razor knife to trim away the excess wallpaper.

Once all the wallpaper has been trimmed, get all the excessive clear adhesive off any painted woodwork. If it is not removed, some adhesives will cause the paint to bubble in a few months time.

One major feature of this style of wallpaper is it's reusable. If you have to remove the paper to repair a plumbing problem behind the wall, the wallpaper can be put back in place without any problems.

Wiring Up a Light Fixture Video

Light fixtures are not a problem when it is over a table and the table is in place. But it can be a safety hazard when the table has been moved during a remodeling project. Besides, the light fixture could be damaged if hit by accident.

To solve the problem, take a 4" long piece of baling wire. Hold the light fixture up to the ceiling and pass the wire through the loop on the top of the fixture and through the top loop of the chain. Twist the wire several times to ensure it will hold.

Wiring up a light fixture will prevent damage to the fixture, your head and it will add extra light for your project. If your light fixture has decorative glass covers, you might want to remove them during the project.

New Hampshire Video

New Hampton, NH is the location of Tim Carter's piece of heaven. He recently purchase land with a glorious view. The property features two waterfalls and a stream. Tim will soon begin construction on his new house. Strange but the property has a view of Carter Mountain!!

Enjoy a guided tour of this majestic area. It is beautiful. Check back later to watch videos of Tim's house construction.

Copper Tubing

copper tubing

This copper tubing was cut and soldered before it was installed in the cabinets. With the right tools and some patience the average person can achieve professional results. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I would like to install some new copper tubing in my house. This new copper pipe will replace some old galvanized iron piping. Are copper pipes hard to work with? Can I connect the new copper piping to the old galvanized iron pipe? I need to learn how to solder copper pipe for this job. Can you teach me? Lisa L., Matawan, NJ

DEAR LISA: Copper tubing and copper pipe are one and the same, but you would be surprised how many people think they are different materials. The job you are describing can be difficult, especially if you are trying to install new copper tubing throughout the entire house. If you are just starting with one fixture, you should be able to complete this job with no leaks.

Copper tube or tubing can be purchased in different diameters and hardness or temper. Hard copper tubing is drawn and is very stiff. If you try to bend it, you will almost always kink the tube. Soft or annealed copper tubing typically comes in rolls and is fairly easy to bend in large sweeping curves.

Hard copper tubing is typically joined together by soldering fittings onto the ends of the pipe or tube. You can seal joints with hard copper using a mechanical compression fitting. Soft copper can also be soldered, but many people chose to use mechanical flare or compression fittings that seal joints by pressure.

The most difficult connection will be where you connect the new copper tubing to the old galvanized iron piping. You have to be extremely careful as you remove the old threaded piping from the threaded fittings. Often the pipe snaps off inside the fitting because the piping has deteriorated over time. Another common mistake is moving or bumping the old piping. Sometimes the old pipes are in a state of dynamic equilibrium where moderate movement or stress causes a leak to develop at some other location away from where you are working.

You can connect the new copper piping to the galvanized iron piping, but you need to use special connectors that isolate the two metals. If you allow the copper to contact the galvanized iron piping directly, a galvanic reaction occurs, and causes the iron piping to corrode. Eventually a leak will develop at this spot of corrosion.

The special connectors can be found at plumbing supply houses that sell primarily plumbing fixtures, piping and fittings. A hardware store or home center might have what you need. I prefer dielectric unions for the job. This special fitting has a threaded component that will attach to the galvanized iron piping, and the other end is a simple soldered connection that works well with your new copper tubing.

Soldering copper tubing is not that hard. It requires some skill, but I am convinced you can do it. People get into trouble when they try to solder copper tubing in tight spaces where the torch can scorch combustible materials or ignite flammable scrap material inside walls. It is imperative that you have a fire extinguisher handy and plenty of buckets of water drawn and ready before you shut off the water supply to the house.

If you do set the house ablaze, call the fire department immediately unless you feel you can completely extinguish the fire within seconds. If there is a shred of doubt as to whether the fire is out, drop everything and call the fire department.

The first step in soldering copper tubing is to clean any oxidation, dirt, grease, etc. from the copper. This is true for both the copper tubing and the fittings. Small round wire brushes that are slightly larger than the inner diameter of the fittings are a great tool to clean fittings. Abrasive metal cloth or sandpaper can be used to clean the outside of the copper tubing.

Once the copper is bright and shiny, you apply a thin layer of flux or soldering paste. This chemical prevents oxidation of the copper as you apply heat from the torch. It is vital part of the soldering process.

Use a propane or acetylene torch to apply the heat to the assembled pipe and fitting. Heat the fitting for about ten to fifteen seconds and then remove the flame. Touch the lead-free solder to the edge of the fitting where the copper tubing enters the fitting. If the copper tubing and fitting has enough retained heat, the solder will melt and flow into the joint.

Once the solder has cooled, be sure to wipe off the copper tubing and fitting. You want to remove any excess soldering paste or flux. If this is left on the copper tubing or fitting, it can actually cause corrosion at a later date.

You can buy clever copper fittings that have the solder and flux already built into the fitting. You simply clean the outside of the copper tubing and the inside of the fitting until they are shiny. Then you insert the tubing into the fitting and apply heat. Once the temperature of the copper tubing and fitting hits a certain point, the solder melts and seals the joint. It is a very nifty invention.

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