Rust Repair Video

Posted on February 9, 2007 by Tim Carter

Did you leave those metal tools or objects outside all winter? A little rusty now? To get these items ready for painting, you have to remove the rust and have the right tools.

Scrap any loose paint off with a thin, flexible, metal putty knife. Then sand the rusty area with a wire brush or sanding block.

Next, you will need a good rust inhibitive primer. Some of these primers can be used over slightly rusted metal, so you don't have to remove all the rust. The primer labels with have instructions as to how much rust it will cover and any other preparation that is required. A primer with zinc or chromate is a better choice. Use an industrial type primer if the others can't be found.

Following the directions for the primer is critical in getting the desired results.

Stainless Steel Sink Care

Posted on February 8, 2007 by Tim Carter

Stainless Steel Sink Care

Can you imagine how amazed Harry Brearley must have been the day he noticed that his scrap steel samples were not rusting? You see, back in 1913, he was working for the British Steel Corporation trying to develop hard steel for gun barrels. He had been experimenting by adding varying amounts of chromium to ordinary steel. Evidently it didn't take long to notice that the material had incredible corrosion resistance. Stainless steel was further enhanced by adding nickel as well.

How Many Types of Stainless Steel are There?

Stainless steel is by no means a simple compound. There are over 60 different types that are readily known and formulated! All have varying amounts of different chemical elements in them to impart different characteristics. However, chromium and nickel are by far the most important elements which give stainless steel its excellent reputation. Certain types of stainless steel may also contain smaller amounts of copper, aluminum, silicon, and molybdenum. These elements all produce different characteristics when mixed in varying amounts. However, for common household everyday use, stainless steel contains 18 percent or more chromium in content and approximately 9 percent nickel does quite well.

Is Stainless Steel The Ultimate Sink?

I don't know if there is a perfect sink for kitchen or bath purposes. All seem to have positive and negative qualities. Take my house for example. We happen to have a cast iron sink with a bright yellow porcelain finish. The sink is no doubt colorful. However, the porcelain finish is susceptible to chipping and scratches. Solid surface sinks can be chipped and harmed by hot objects. Stainless steel is virtually carefree, but yet it can be dented, scratched and harmed by certain chemicals. However, stainless steel is affordable, and probably the easiest of all choices to maintain.

Does the Metal Thickness Vary?

Stainless steel sinks are by no means all created equal. Some use steel which is nearly twice as thick as others. Of course, the thicker sink will cost more money. However, it may prove to be a better investment over the long run. Thicker sinks will resist denting. They also will flex less than their thinner counterparts. Thickness is measured by gauge. Residential sinks will range from 18 gauge (.047 - .052 inch) to 23 gauge (.027 - .029 inch).

Can You Make Stainless Sinks Quiet?

Some people object to the metallic sound which is produced when working with or in a stainless steel sink. Some manufacturers spray a thin insulating compound on the underside of sinks to control this noise.

You can retrofit or add additional insulation if you find noise to be an issue. Spray foam insulating compounds will often readily stick or adhere to the bottoms of stainless steel sinks. Once installed, you can foam the undersides of the sink to control noise. The foam will also insulate and keep washing water hotter for longer periods of time. Be sure to wear eye protection as the foam will drop into your eyes as you lay on your back.

Can Stainless Steel Corrode?

Stainless steel sinks can corrode. Chlorine bleach is a very aggressive chemical. It can and will corrode stainless steel. Remember, stainless steel is primarily steel, chromium, and nickel. Chemicals can and will discolor these materials. Certain acids, etc. will cause problems. Don't allow family members to perform chemistry experiments or other strange brew mixing operations in your new sink. Do these operations in the basement or some other sink!

Remember, many, many ordinary household cleaners contain chlorine bleach. Look on the label for the words chlorine bleach or sodium hypochlorite. These are the keywords!

Stainless Steel Do's and Don'ts

Do's

Rinse, Rinse, and Rinse Again ...

Rinse your sink well after each use. Rub the metal with a clean cloth or paper towel as the clean water is flowing. Simply spraying will not remove all residue or harmful deposits.

Perform Weekly Cleaning With Approved Cleaner

It is very helpful to clean the sink with an approved mild or ultra-mild abrasive cleaner on a weekly basis. This will help keep the sink look shiny and new. Remember to follow grain marks that are already present. Here's my favorite stainless steel cleaner:

I've used this cleaner for years on my stainless steel. It's fantastic. CLICK or TAP HERE or the image to have it in your hands in days.

Dry the Sink after Rinsing

Unless pure distilled water flows from your faucet (usually this happens only in chemistry labs), there will be dissolved minerals and salts in your rinse water. When the rinse water evaporates, the minerals/salts are left behind. These are the same water spots you see on your car finish. If you dry your sink after rinsing, these spots will not form. If you have hard water deposits, try to use a little white vinegar to remove them. After removal, rinse and dry the sink.

Don'ts

Rubber Mats .... No Way!

Rubber mats cause big problems with stainless steel. They can trap harmful cleaning chemicals that will not be rinsed away. The water and cleaners is trapped between the rubber and the steel and never dries.

Scrubbing Across the Grain

Certain new sinks come with a factory grain or fine polish lines. Always scrub parallel to these marks.

Allowing Cleaners or Detergents to Dry on Surface

Cleaners and detergents can and do contain harmful chemicals that can corrode stainless steel. You can use them, but they must not be allowed to sit on the sink surface. In addition, do NOT fill the sink and allow a strong solution of chlorine bleach and water to sit in the sink. This chemical brew can cause problems. If you want to sanitize an object in a solution of chlorine bleach, use a bucket or other non-stainless steel sink.

Steel Wool Pads .... No Way!!

Never use steel wool to clean a stainless steel sink. Small steel fibers will be left behind which will rust. Always use a nylon or some other synthetic cleaning pad to scour the sink. These pads used in conjunction with approved abrasive cleaners will do anything that you might have attempted with steel wool.

Stainless Steel Sink Stain Troubleshooting Guide

Virtually every stain that occurs in a stainless steel sink is a result of operator error - that is, the homeowner or user has created the problem. High-quality stainless steel is very resistant to staining, but problems can happen. Here are some common problems:

Rust Marks / Rings in the Sink

Traditional orange/red rust marks in a high-quality stainless steel sink can almost always be traced to one of three sources - steel wool pads used for cleaning, tin-coated steel cans or cast iron pots left in the sink while wet, or iron deposits that actually are found within the water. The rust stains are not usually a part of the stainless steel, they are simple deposits on the surface of the sink. Scrubbing the stains with an abrasive cleaner along the grain lines of the finish will almost always immediately solve the problem.

Scratches

Unless your sink is made from diamonds, it is going to scratch. I found this out in my college course in geology. Stainless steel is hard but it can and will scratch. Unfortunately, some sinks come with a fine grain or brushed pattern. If a scratch goes across this grain is shows much more readily had there been no grain. Scratch removal can be very tough to accomplish. If there is a grain in your sink, you must remove while scrubbing in the same direction as the grain. Fine scratches can be removed with some buffing with ultra-fine abrasives and/or using a white 3M pad and Shiny Sinks or Inox Cream. Do not attack the sink surface or be too aggressive.

Pit Marks or Obvious Corrosion

Corrosion is a real threat. Your builder, plumber, or ceramic tile installer, or you may be responsible! Construction chemicals, solvents and household cleaners contain chlorides and acids which can react and damage stainless steel. Chlorine bleach (chloride!) or products that contain it (many ordinary household cleaners do!) can stain/corrode a stainless steel sink. Muriatic acid which may be used by a ceramic tile person to clean grout, etc. Plumbing PVC solvents etc. can possibly cause problems. If a dangerous chemical gets on the sink, wash it immediately with water. Rinse well and dry the sink with a towel or paper towels.

Standing Water in the Bottom of the Sink

High-quality sinks are formed so that the bottom surface is not level. It is pitched to the large drain hole. However, strainer baskets are installed by plumbers that sometimes have a thickness greater than the recessed ledge created for the strainer. This can cause a small backup of water. Be sure the strainer you pick is compatible with the sink.

Multicolored Stains or Residue on the Bottom of Sink

These problems are most commonly traced to minerals contained in your water. They can also be caused by salts from water softeners. Even cleaners can cause the problem, ones that have an oil base! These stains can be removed by using Shiny Sinks or Bar Keepers Friend in most cases. Rinse well and then dry the sink to see what happens.

Stainless Steel Sink Cleaners

Your grocery store will usually stock useful and approved stainless steel sink cleaners. Always, always get written information from your specific sink manufacturer to see what they recommend. Some sink manufacturers actually private label certain ultra-fine abrasives to clean and buff their sinks. Take the time to call your manufacturer before you try to become a metal finisher of your own right!

Many manufacturers approve the following cleaners. Once again, check your product literature to see what they recommend. If you do not know the manufacturer, experiment on a small section of the sink to see what happens. I always recommend the sidewall of the sink which is closest to your body. Why? Because you don't readily see that surface unless you bend over and look down at it.

Soft Scrub, Shiny Sinks, Bar Keepers Friend, Inox Cream, Cameo Stainless Steel Cleaner

Column B156

Carpet Pads Insulating Underlayment

Posted on February 8, 2007 by Tim Carter

Carpet Pads / Cushions Insulating Underlayment

Carpet pads or cushions literally make or break a carpet. I must admit that I did not fully understand the importance of carpet cushion until I did the research for this column. Once it was explained to me, it made perfect sense. I'll try to do the same for you in this short space.

Carpet Backing

Carpets are simply thousands of threads or fibers that are held in place by a backing. The threads or pieces of fiber are sewn through the backing. If the backing flexes or bends too much, the fibers become loose. The same thing can happen if there is no flex to a carpet backing. The fibers can actually come out of the backing. If this happens, the carpet looks worn and it can actually fall apart.

Cushions are the Foundation

A carpet cushion works to absorb the impact of foot traffic on carpets. This keeps the fibers tightly bound into the backing. However, if you allow the backing to flex too much by using a thick pad, the backing can actually stretch or break allowing the carpet fibers to separate from the backing. You walk a fine line in order to preserve the carpet integrity.

Thinner is Better (Often)

It stands to reason that a thinner carpet cushion will flex less than a thicker cushion. If you want your new, expensive carpet to last in high traffic areas such as stairways, hallways, or other high volume traffic areas, select a thinner, denser cushion (no thicker than 3/8 inch). This will protect your carpet.

Carpets Over Concrete Slabs

The stimulus for this column and bulletin was based upon several letters I received from people whose houses sit on slabs. They complained about cold floors in the winter time. Upon researching the topic I found that you can insulate beneath a carpet quite effectively. Not only will the carpet cushions act as insulators, you can also install a fantastic recycled fiberboard insulation product.

The fiberboard insulation product is comprised of recycled newspaper. It is extremely dense and offers an R value of 1.2 for a 1/2 inch thickness. This means that if you install this fiberboard and then use a 1/2 inch prime urethane cushion, you can achieve an R-value of 3.3 beneath a carpet. That is an outstanding accomplishment. Cold carpeting or floors will be a thing of the past.

Sound Control

Carpet cushions and the above mentioned insulating board will also help control noise. This may be a consideration if a bedroom is over a family room. It may also be helpful in an office or light commercial environment. Carpet itself helps absorb the air borne sound waves. However, a cushion beneath a carpet will further absorb and dampen the vibrations which transmit noise to another room or space. If you are building a new home and are concerned with sound transmission between floors, you should pay close attention to the sound deadening properties of the insulation board coupled with a resilient cushion.

Selecting a Carpet Cushion

All too often homeowners pay little or no attention to their carpet cushion or pad. They let the sales person do this task. It can be a costly mistake. However, as you continue to read this bulletin, you will find it is not necessarily a simple decision.

The carpet cushion industry formed an association to help promote the benefits and importance of carpet cushion. They have some excellent literature which I suggest you read. One article in particular is a must. It is titled Benefits Of Carpet Cushion. It tells you exactly the minimum type and specifications of carpet cushion to select for each room of your house. I suggest you check this article and one titled Cushion Criteria on their website under Consumer Info.

Carpet Cushion Council
P.O. Box 546
Riverside, CT 06878
203-637-1312
www.carpetcushion.org

Insulating Fiberboard

As hard as I tried, I could only locate one manufacturer of carpet insulating fiberboard. That is not to say another is not out there. However, one New Jersey company specifically manufactures and markets a board for this purpose. They have great literature. The Carpet and Rug Institute is in the process of certifying this underlayment. Call the manufacturer and ask about ComfortBase.

Homasote Company
Box 7240
West Trenton, NJ 08628-0240
800-257-9491

Carpet Cushion Insulating Values

The following is a listing of the thermal performance of carpet cushions. You will notice a huge difference among different types. The values listed are R-values. R value is a measure of resistance to heat loss. To put the cushion values into perspective, ordinary fiberglass wall insulation has an R value of a little over 3 per inch - 11 for 3.5 thickness.

Cushion Type		Ounces per Square Yard		R- Value
Rubberized Jute		40 oz. 50 oz. 56oz.		0.97 1.55 1.73
Synthetic Fiber		20 oz. 28 oz. 36 oz.		0.99 1.00 0.98
Rubber (Waffle Pattern)		56 oz. 64 oz. 90 oz. 100 oz.		0.63 0.61 0.63 0.67
Rubber (Smooth)		62 oz. 68 oz. 80 oz. 100 oz.		0.21 0.36 0.36 0.59
Bonded Urethane Foam		1/2 inch thick		1.86
Prime Urethane	.	1/4 inch 3/8 inch 7/16 inch 1/2 inch	.	1.11 1.63 1.86 2.10

Data courtesy of the Carpet Cushion Council, P.O. Box 546, Riverside, Connecticut 06878, 203-637-1312 Send them a regular#10 self addressed stamped envelope and ask for free carpet cushion information!

Carpet Cushion Types / Descriptions

A huge majority of carpet cushions will fit into one of the below categories. As you might expect, there are different grades of material within each category. The higher grades are often used in commercial installations where foot traffic over carpet is extreme. Be sure to ask what will do best in your residential application. As with most things, higher cost often means better quality.

Fiber Carpet Cushions

Perhaps you have seen a fiber pad before. Possibly it was a natural fiber pad such as jute or animal hair. You can also purchase synthetic fiber cushions and ones that are resinated recycled textile fiber. These cushions tend to produce a firm foundation for the carpet. The grade of this type of cushion is measured by ounces of cushion per square yard.

Sponge Rubber Cushions

Sponge rubber cushions come in two basic types: flat or waffled. The flat cushions tend to be stiffer or more firm than the rippled or wavy cushions. Once again, the grade is measured in ounces of rubber per square yard.

Prime Urethane Foam Cushions

Now it gets confusing! You can purchase three types of prime urethane cushion: conventional prime, grafted prime, and densified prime cushion. The first two (conventional and grafted) are made by mixing chemicals to produce the urethane. There is a wide range available. They have different densities and different levels of firmness. You will have to consult with the carpet people to see what will work best for you.

Densified foam is a special cushion which can be made to certain specifications. If a carpet company needs a cushion with a specific density, this can happen using this material. Its grade is determined by foam density or weight of foam per cubic foot.

Bonded Foam Cushions

These are the types that most people are familiar with. Bonded foam cushions are multicolored in nature. Shredded pieces of urethane foam are fused together into a giant sheet. As with all of the other cushions, density is measured by weight per square yard of material.

Frothed Urethane Foam

These are commonly higher density foam cushions. Urethane is bonded to a non-woven sheet of material much like the foam backings you find on padded carpeting. They can give a nice, firm foundation for carpeting.

Carpet Cushion Buying Tips

The greater the traffic which will traverse the carpet, the thinner the cushion should be! Select a cushion no thicker than 3/8 inch. Purchase as much weight per square yard as you can afford.

Bedrooms, dens, and other low traffic rooms can have a thicker cushion. A 1/2 inch cushion will deliver high resiliency and protect the carpet if it has a high density.

Don't cut costs on the cushion or buy it because it looks nice. The cushion is the foundation of the entire system! Laying an expensive carpet over the top of a cheap cushion is nonsense. Don't be swayed by a salesperson. Ask about density, weight, etc. If the salesmen looks puzzled, go to another store!

Column B151

Painting Cabinetry

Posted on February 8, 2007 by Tim Carter

Painting Cabinetry
Brushes & Tool Cleanup Tips

Paint is a very interesting material. Is reminds me of a show I used to watch on television as a child. A friendly witch would twitch her nose and presto, something would change (usually for the better)! Paint isn't as fast, but it can really transform an object, room, or set of cabinets.

What's more, if you incorporate multiple colors, stenciling, or specialized painting techniques, you can really accomplish some inexpensive redecorating.

Common Complaints

Painting cabinets can lead to problems. There are two primary reasons for this: surface contamination and previous gloss or slick surfaces.

Surface contamination (a fancy term for dirt, cooking grease, old food, dust, etc.) interferes with the ability of paint to hold onto the new surface. If you paint a dirty surface, the paint sticks to the dirt, not the surface below the dirt. Peeling paint is a reality. I have seen it happen many times.

Previously painted or stained kitchen cabinets almost always have a slick or glossy surface. Why? Because this makes them easier to clean. A glossy surface doesn't have those microscopic grooves that trap dirt. This is great for cleaning, but bad for paint! Paint needs lots of tiny grooves or scratches to grab onto.

Successful paint jobs are based on thorough preparation. Clean, sand, fill all holes, caulk where necessary and your paint job will really look professional.

Small Surface Area - Big Project!

Painting kitchen cabinets is a tough job. I can paint 2 bedrooms in the time it takes to do an average set of cabinets. To achieve really good results on cabinets, you need to break them down. This means removing all hardware (door knobs, hinges, drawer pulls, etc.). Skip this important step and your paint job will suffer!

Once the hardware is removed it is time to clean and sand. Any name brand liquid soap will do just fine. However, DON'T immerse the wood in water or subject it to excessive water, especially raised panel doors. Water can get in hidden spaces and cause swelling, warping, twisting, etc.! Use damp sponges or rags to clean. Rinse immediately and dry with a dry rag. Do not let the cabinets air dry.

Sand with medium sand paper to roughen up the surface. Coarse sandpaper can be too harsh and cause deep scratches. On wide open spaces use a sanding block or vibrating sander to maintain a level sanding surface. Sand paper in your hands is a mistake. You will sand more areas than others, trust me.

Click here to watch a video on painting those kitchen cabinets.

Choose Your Weapon ....

It is time to paint. What will you use? Most choose ease and convenience - water based paints. Why? Because they think it is easier to clean up when using water based paints. Well, that is not necessarily so. More on this later.

Oil based and water based paints will produce superior results. However, many experts will agree that oil based finishes will yield a glossier surface and will harden more rapidly than water based finishes. These are important characteristics if you want clean cabinetry as well as a functioning kitchen in a short period of time.

To Prime or Not to Prime .......

This is a tough call. If you are painting over a clear finish like urethane or varnish, it is mandatory that you use a bonding primer. If you are painting over previously painted surfaces that will require two coats, then it is a great idea. If you are just applying a fresh coat of the same color or nearly so, then you might be able to get by with a top coat only. Be sure to clear this move with the manufacturer. Check the label of the finish paint. See what it has to say about the use of a primer. When in doubt, always read instructions (That's a joke! Read before acting at all times!).

Remember, primers are formulated to bond well to the surface being painted. They also are made to even out the texture between bare wood and painted wood. Primer/sealers will also even out porosity in the event that bare wood has been exposed during sanding.

Final Gratification

This is what everyone always want to do first - paint. It is really the second last step in the process. The application of paint is an art. Most people that I watch paint do a miserable job. Why? Because they were never really taught. They think that anyone can do it. Well, anyone can do it, but not necessarily well!

Let's do the doors and drawer fronts first. We can really make up some time with these articles first.

If you are using oil based paint, you will need two brushes: a 1.5 inch and a 2 inch wide brush. Buy the 1.5 inch one as a tapered brush. Be sure they are china bristle or a synthetic fiber brush that is suitable for oil! If you use water based paints, NO china bristle brushes! You will ruin them with the water. It swells the natural hair bristles.

Oh yes, we also need a roller pan and a small 2 or 3 inch wide fine nap roller. What? You are confused? You mean to tell me that you have never used a small roller to apply trim paint? See what I mean by everyone thinking they could paint....! Come on now, don't go away angry....

We are going to use the roller to apply the paint on any flat surface which will accept paint from the roller. The brush is used to smooth the paint after it is applied.

Painting Doors

Raised panel doors should be painted from the inside out. In other words, paint the flat center area first. Then paint the beveled areas of the raised panel. Finish the outer frame last.

Detailing is everything. See where one piece of wood joins another? Those are the same places that brush strokes should end and begin. Speaking of brush strokes, do you know how to avoid them on long pieces of wood work? It is easy.

You avoid brush strokes by working from an unpainted area towards an area that was just painted. The final brush stroke is towards the painted area. Just as you finish the stroke you gently lift the brush off the surface while your arm is still moving. You will see the lift off mark for a few moments, but if you have a great self leveling paint, it will disappear!

As soon as the door is painted, set it flat on a can or some other surface that is smaller than the door. This will allow you to get all edges painted. It will also reduce the risk of runs in case you put too much paint on. If you set the door on the floor, on paper, etc. the paint at the edges will stick and cause a big mess.

Drawers - A Piece of Cake

Paint the drawers in the same fashion. Set them on end to allow the paint to dry. Try not to get too much paint inside the knob or handle holes. If you do, remove the paint with toothpicks as soon as possible.

Let's talk about open time for a moment. High gloss paints require that you keep a wet edge. If you try to paint too large an area and the paint starts to set, you will have problems when you try to blend the fresh paint to the drying paint. Flat wall and ceiling paints are very forgiving. If you are used to this, you had better get ready for a BIG surprise. Paint one door or one drawer from start to finish. DON'T try to get an assembly line going with that roller. Cover the roller pan or brush with aluminum foil to minimize exposure to air if you are worried about the paint drying.

Paint Indoors or in a Garage

Paint the doors and drawers in a covered area. Avoid direct sunlight and breezes. You will find it easier to keep the before mentioned "wet edge".

Cabinet Frames - Gravy!!

The cabinet frame is a cinch. Use the roller on the flat fronts. Use that tapered brush for all tight spots and cutting in against walls and countertops. Remember, no brush strokes!

Paint Brushes - Types & Tips for Lifetime Service

Paint brushes are like anything else. There are different types and different levels of quality. There is absolutely no one Wonder Brush that works for all paints and surfaces.

One thing is for sure, if you currently have or purchase a pure china bristle brush, you can not use it with water based paints or clean it with water. It will ruin it. The natural animal bristles will swell when they come into contact with water. The oils in oil based paint do not cause this same problem.

Some synthetic brushes are multi-purpose. They can be used with either oil or water based paints. However, you must read the label to make sure the brush can be used for oil and water paints. Always choose the brush for the surface. In other words, DON'T use a wimpy 1.5 inch brush for painting clapboards on a house! That calls for a 3.5 or 4 inch brush. You will wear out a small brush on a large surface.

Never try to clean a brush with hot solvents or liquid brush or paint removers! This will absolutely ruin the body or strength of the bristles.

DON'T hammer the brush on any surface. Never hammer the ferrule, or metal band against anything. This band is what holds the bristles in place! If you distort it, you can loosen the bristles.

Never allow a brush to "stand" on its bristles in a bucket or paint can. You can bend them permanently. Use the hanger hole found in the end of every brush.

DON'T allow a brush to "finger". This happens when the bristles separate into clumps when cleaning. It is a sure sign that paint is still present up near the ferrule.

NEVER turn a brush upside down into the flow of water from a faucet! This will bend bristles back and permanently ruin the brush. Proper cleaning information is just below - keep reading......

After cleaning, always store the brush in the cardboard protective casing. What? You threw it away? What were you thinking? Those things are nifty. They really do a wonderful job of protecting brushes in between painting jobs. Make sure you keep that cardboard wrap the next time.

Author's Note: I have a wonderful step-by-step EBook that shows you how to get professional results when painting cabinets. It is easy to follow and affordable. Plus, you get the EBook instantly!

Paint Tool Cleaning Tips

Preventative Measures

Are you going to paint with water based paints? If so, get your brush wet and remove excess water before you dip it in the paint can! This will prevent the paint from drying up near the ferrule. This is where many problems start with cleaning brushes. You can do this same thing with paint thinner and china bristle brushes.

Cleaning More Than Once

Who says you have to wait until the end of each day to clean a brush? If you want to really preserve an expensive brush, you may choose to clean it or partially clean it when you take a break or eat lunch. Rig up a 5 gallon bucket with water and a stick over the top. Suspend the brush from the stick so that just the bristles are immersed in the water. You can do this same thing with oil paints, just use a small narrow vessel to limit the amount of paint thinner you use.

Cleaning Tools

A spinner and a curved scraper are the two tools you must buy. A curved scraper allows you to remove vast quantities of paint from rollers before the cleaning process. A spinner is a device that allows you to spin a brush or roller rapidly by pumping a handle. These devices work just like your washing machine in the spin cycle. The centrifugal force of the spinning throws out the paint contaminated solvent or water from deep within the brush or roller. You can clean a roller, for instance, in about 45 seconds with a spinner, I'm serious! Brushes take a little more time. Maybe 2 - 3 minutes.

Spin the paint out of the brushes or rollers inside a bucket. If not, you will have paint everywhere! When cleaning oil paint, use separate rinses, don't saturate the roller or brush each time you spin it with fresh thinner. This can get expensive. Save used paint thinner! The paint solids will settle to the bottom and the cloudy liquid is perfect for using the next time! Always comb brushes after they are clean and return them to the cardboard covers. Store roller covers on end to prevent pile crush!

Brush Cleaning Techniques

Brushes can be ruined if you turn them upside down and force water into the bristles. They can also be ruined if you bend the bristles by forcing the brush against the bottom of the sink. So how do you do it?

Take a one gallon can and fill it half way with warm water for latex paints. Rapidly shake the brush back and forth in the water without jamming the bristles against the bottom. Dump the water and do this again for about 10 seconds each cycle. Spin the brush every other cycle until the water remains clear in the can while shaking. You will be shocked how easy it is!

Column B149

Housewrap Air Barrier

Posted on February 8, 2007 by Tim Carter

Air Infiltration Barriers Housewraps
Manufacturers - Installation

Christmas in July. That is what I used to think when we put housewrap on a summertime project. In fact, I would, depending upon the outside temperature (if it was too hot, I would be grumpy), even make a big flat bow(using the seam tape) on the front of the house when the installation was complete. The housewrap, the colored tape for the seams, and the bow made a new home look like a big Christmas gift box.

Plastic Wrap - - That's It!

All of the new housewrap products are simply thin plastic in big rolls. There is poly this and poly that but the bottom line is that the plastics are specially formulated to stop air infiltration and act as a water barrier. Because they are plastic, you need to handle them differently and use special tapes, fasteners and care when installing. Without this care, you are wasting your time as well as future energy dollars.

The housewraps must not be compared to plastic food wrap you use in your refrigerator. These do not usually allow water vapor transmission. Housewraps, however, must be able to breathe. Water vapor created inside your house must not be blocked as it makes its way to the outside atmosphere. Some housewraps actually let water vapor pass between the fibers, while other have very tiny holes poked in them.

Felt Substitute? ... Maybe

Housewraps were introduced in the late 1970's. Prior to that the only way to prevent water from getting to wall sheathing or the inside of your house was to use asphalt saturated felt paper. It has a proven track record and is still used in many applications.

I renovated many a home in my career. Most of these houses had felt paper beneath the wood siding, cement stucco, or other outer covering. Sure, after 50 - 70 years the felt was brittle, but it could still repel water! In fact, in many instances, felt paper does a better job of keeping out water around the actual fasteners. Some of the plastic housewraps can and do leak if concentrated amounts of water are directed at fastener locations. As far as I'm concerned, this isn't a major problem, since the housewrap is not supposed to be the primary water barricade!

Tough To Compare Brands

If you are shopping for a housewrap, good luck! It is almost impossible to compare performance characteristics. Why, you ask? Because the manufacturers do not have to use the same testing procedures, that's why. Each manufacturer can use a test which makes their product look the best in each aspect of testing. Thus, you are comparing apples to oranges to onions.

Not to worry, however. All in all, just about any housewrap, properly installed, will significantly help you with regards to air & moisture infiltration.

Saving Energy

Housewraps save you energy by slowing down or stopping the movement of air through insulation. You know those R- values you hear so much about? Well, those R-values are achieved in test cells where there is virtually no air movement! Air moving through insulation lowers its R-value, plain and simple.

Installation Is Critical

If you think a bunch of bottom feeders are going to install your housewrap, you had better take the day off and supervise them! If the installation is sloppy, you are simply not going to achieve the many benefits these wonderful products offer.

The products must be installed so pieces higher on a wall overlap lower pieces. All holes, seams, edges, etc. must be taped. Flashing details at windows and doors are critical. Tight installation at inside corners is a must. Minimal exposure to sunlight is also important depending upon which product you choose. Just about every one of these plastic wraps begins to degrade when exposed to sunlight. Top performance occurs when you cover them rapidly with brick, siding, or stucco.

Whether you decide to build a new home or a room addition, seriously consider the use of these great products. They can save you money and prevent moisture problems. The old master builders who used felt knew what they were doing. We need to continue in their footsteps when building. Fortunately, we now have a product that can do just a little bit better than felt paper!

Air Barrier Installation Tips & Suggestions

Cheap Sunglasses ......

Have you got your air barrier? Is it a white product? If so, you had better get some sun-glasses. These products are brilliant white and will hurt your eyes, trust me! The darker products are definitely easier on the eyes.

Read The Instructions

You might know that I am a big fan of reading instructions. Not all housewraps install in the same fashion. Certain brands have a definite inside and outside face. Install it backwards and you might not get any water protection! Also, specific tapes have to be used for different housewraps. You can not simply use duct tape or masking tape!!! Nails are important. Some housewraps require large headed fasteners.

Start At The Bottom

Housewraps shed water. This means that the lowest level piece must be overlapped by successively higher pieces, much like roofing shingles. Also, the housewrap needs to overlap brick flashing. If you are using vinyl or wood siding, make sure the housewrap overlaps the top of the foundation. A 3/4 inch overlap will prevent water from getting on top of the foundation and into your house.

Proper Timing For Installation

Housewraps go in before the windows and doors! You simply cover over these openings as you install the material. After the house is wrapped, you come back and slice an X at the window/door locations from corner to corner. Wrap the material inside the opening, fasten to the face of the rough jamb, and trim off excess. Do not put nails within 4 inches of the top of the openings over windows and doors. Why? If your windows and doors come with preformed /flashed vinyl or aluminum nailing flanges, I would like to see you carefully slice the housewrap at the top of the window opening. Slide the window nailing flange (TOP ONLY!) under the housewrap. Tape it to the window after this is complete. This prevents water from getting behind the window.

Inside Corners

Watch those inside corners!! The house wrap MUST be very tight. If it pulls away because you do not nail it tightly in the corner, your bricklayers, and/or siding people will slice it!

Keep It Level

When you start, put one single nail at the top. Unroll 15 - 20 feet and align with the top of the foundation (1 inch over, remember!). After the housewrap is aligned, then nail. Nail sideways from top to bottom to remove wrinkles.

You will not be able to install housewrap by yourself. Count on using a minimum of one helper. It takes one person just to hold the roll and keep it taut.

Install the top of the housewrap between the top two wall plates if possible. If not, be sure the top is taped to the wall or else soffit downdrafts will keep you cold!!!

Manufacturers & Comparative Data

The following is a listing of manufacturers of air infiltration housewraps. Remember that there is NO uniform standard for comparing performance! Accckkkk!!! So, you need to look for which characteristic (air infiltration, tear resistance, UV degradation, water vapor transmission, etc.) is of most importance to you. All of the products will perform well in my opinion. They KEY to performance is based much more so on installation than the product itself. You can buy the best air barrier and it will be worthless if installed poorly.

ABTCO, Inc. ... 800-521-4250
They make Prowrap. It is a perforated cross laminated polyethylene. Prowrap is 3 mils thick, white in color, and should not be exposed to sunlight for more than 6 months. ABTCO sells special sealing tape.
Amoco Foam Products ... 800-241-4402
They make Amowrap. It is a perforated, polyolefin-coated woven polypropylene. Amowrap is 8 mils thick, green in color, and should not be exposed to sunlight for more than 12 months.
Celotex Corp. ... 813-873-1700
Celotex makes Tuff Wrap. It is a perforated polyethylene-coated woven polyethylene. Tuff Wrap is 5 mils thick and white in color. It is a good idea to cover this stuff within 3 months.
Du Pont ... 800-44-TYVEK
Du Pont makes Tyvek, the original housewrap. Tyvek is a spun bonded polyethylene. Tyvek is about 4.5 mils thick and brilliant white in color. It should not be exposed to sunlight for more than 4 months. 3M makes a special seam tape for Tyvek. It is fire engine red.
Parsec, Inc. ... 800-527-3454
They make Airtight Wrap. It is a perforated, cross laminated polyethylene. It is blue in color and 4 mils thick. You can leave this product exposed for about 4 months.
Raven Industries ... 800-635-3456
Raven makes Rufco-Wrap. It is a perforated, cross laminated polyethylene. Rufco-Wrap is white in color and 3 mils thick. Evidently, it can be exposed to sunlight for up to 6 months.
Reemay, Inc. ... 800-321-6271
Reemay makes Typar. Typar is a perforated spun bonded polypropylene coated polypropylene. It is silver colored and is about 7 mils thick. Reemay says that you can leave it in the sun for a long (unlimited) time without damage.

Air Leak Alternative Product

By now you figured out that air leakage occurs primarily at joints - where things abut one another. So, you might ask, why not simply tape these joints? Well, good idea! One company makes a product that claims to be able to do just that. Benjamin Obdyke 800-523-5261 makes a tape called Gap Wrap. It sticks to virtually anything and is applied using a handy dispenser just like you see people use to tape shipping boxes. The reasoning behind this product is sound - i.e. tape the gaps where air is entering. However, I feel that the installation of a water barrier is just as important. This tape method does not address this concern. If you tape over plywood joints, the plywood is still exposed behind brick veneer, vinyl siding, and/or wood siding. Water that gets behind these things can and will rot cellulose based products.

Column B311

Dishwasher Installation & Energy Savings

Posted on February 8, 2007 by Tim Carter

Standard & Electronic Dishwashers:
Installation & Energy Guidelines

My wife came from a family that had a dishwasher. I lived on the other side of the railroad tracks and had no machine. When we were first married, Kathy hated to wash dishes by hand. So, I ended up doing them as often as I could. I kept saying it wasn't that bad (what a fool!). Of course, I didn't know any better. It's like the people who used to live in Phoenix in the early 1900's without air conditioning.

On or about out 6th wedding anniversary, I remodeled our kitchen and installed a dishwasher. WOW! what a great machine! I was hooked.

Technology Marches On

There has always been a difference in the quality of dishwashers. Not all machines do a great job of cleaning. There are economy models that many tract builders use that simply squirt water around the inside of a plastic tub. I have received numerous complaints from friends who have been stuck with such machines.

You can spend a little more money and get a machine that does a lot more. They clean better and require little maintenance. In fact, I installed a new machine in my "new" home that I built 10 years ago. The machine has been used no less than 3,500 times and I haven't done one thing to it. Not only that, it does a great job of cleaning.

The new machines are different than my 10 year old machine. Some have electronic sensors that attempt to help you save money and do a better job of cleaning your dishes. This technology is very recent. In fact, not all manufacturers have embraced it just yet.

Big Brother Is Watching!

Take apart one of the new machines and you would think it is used in the espionage and spy industry. You will find electric eyes, and a multitude of sensors that spy on your daily habits, water temperature, and quantity of cleaning soap you use. This is a far cry from the dishwasher I use. My machine, I figure, has a grand total of one sensor. I believe it has a built-in thermostat that detects the temperature of the incoming water. It then knows how long to heat the water before starting to work. My machine is a Model T Ford compared to the new dishwashers!

Energy Savings

We need to be concerned about energy. There are several reasons. Number 1, saving energy usually means saving money. Number 2, saving energy means saving natural resources. However, proposed energy savings can sometimes actually cost you money. How you might ask? Well, I'll tell you.

Take the new dishwashers for example. Two of the models claim to save between 21 and 24 percent on your energy bills. Furthermore, the units may save on water usage as well. The trick is to determine if you actually get a reasonable payback on the extra money you have to spend to achieve these savings.

A Sample Calculation

Energy cost fluctuate seasonally and regionally. There is no way for me to calculate an across the board savings for every person in every city. You need to do the simple calculations yourself. All you need is a copy of your electric bill and water bill.

I just looked at my most recent bills. Here in Cincinnati, I pay $.077 for each 1,000 watts of electricity I use. I pay $.000267 for each gallon of water I use.

Remember how I said that my dishwasher has been used about 3,500 times. OK, lets do a rough calculation.

Every dishwasher has different water usage amounts. They can range from 4.8 to 9.0 gallons of water per load. For sake of discussion, let's say a machine uses 7 gallons.

Electricity usage varies as well, as the machine draws different amounts of electricity during the washing, rinsing, and drying cycles. For sake of discussion, let's say the dishwasher operates at 60% total load capacity over the entire washing cycle.

In my case, I would have used 24,500 gallons of water in 10 years. At today's cost, that would be $6.54 worth of water in 10 years!

Electricity will be more, that's for sure. Let's assume that a dishwasher runs for 1 hour total each load. In my case, at current rates, I would have used 2,100,000 watts over 10 years (3,500 x 1,000 x.6). The cost for this electricity at current rates would be $161.00. This means that the total utility cost over tens years of use is roughly $170.00. If a new dishwasher claims to save you say 30 percent on your utility usage, BIG DEAL! That would mean I would save $51 over 10 years. Would you pay $200 more for a dishwasher that saves you $51? I didn't think so. Wait for the prices to drop as technology improves. It will be worth the wait!

Manufacturers of Electronic and Standard Dishwashers

At the time this bulletin was published, there were only two manufacturers who made electronic dirt sensing "smart" dishwashers. These two happen to be General Electric and Maytag. The two machines accomplish the same task, but do it in a different manner. The General Electric machine has an electric eye that looks at the water passing through the water pump. The Maytag machine has numerous different sensors such as a detergent sensor and a fuzzy logic sensor that memorizes your washing habits and times of day that the machine is loaded.

I think that you will gradually see the other leading manufacturers bring an electronic dishwasher to the marketplace. As this happens, the technology will improve and the cost will eventually drop. As it stands, the current models are somewhat pricey. However, this is always the case with new technology. I recommend that you call these companies and request product literature. A few minutes of your time will yield impressive results.

Admiral ... 515-792-7000
Amana ... 800-843-0304
Frigidaire Co. ... 800-685-6005
Gaggenau ... 617-255-1766
General Electric ... 800-626-2000
Jenn-Air ... 800-JENNAIR
KitchenAid ... 800-253-3977
Magic Chef ... 800-536-6247
Maytag ... 515-792-7000
Rohl Corp. ... 800-777-9762
Sears ... 800-359-2000
Tappan ... 800-685-6005
Viking Range Corp. ... 601-455-1200
Whirlpool Corp. ... 800-253-1301
White-Westinghouse ... 800-685-6005

Installing A Dishwasher - New Or Remodel

Less Complicated Than It Seems

Dishwashers can appear to be intimidating appliances to install. this is especially true if you are used to dealing with toasters and refrigerators. A dishwasher has three "hard" (permanently) connected items that can confound an unprepared homeowner. These three items are the power supply, the incoming water supply, and the drain line. These connections are really quite easy if you possess the ability to read, have some patience, and own a few basic tools.

Replacing An Existing Or New Machine

If your task is to install a new dishwasher in place of an existing machine, much of the work is already completed. The first job is to remove the old dishwasher.

Start by locating the fuse or circuit breaker that powers the dishwasher. Turn it to the off position. If you do not do this, there is the possibility of a serious and/or lethal shock hazard. I guarantee you that the power line will touch the metal part of the dishwasher as you detach the wire. You will get zotted if you don't turn off the power!

Now, find the water turn off valve that supplies hot water to the dishwasher. If you had a first class plumber install your first machine, the tee fitting that supplies water to the machine should be after the cutoff valve that controls the hot water to your kitchen sink. This means that you should be able to turn that valve off and the dishwasher and the hot side of the kitchen sink will be the only things without water. If you had a bad plumber, well, you may have to shut off all the water in the house!

After the water is off, it is time to take things apart. All of the necessary disconnections can be made by removing the lower front panel of the dishwasher. This panel is usually held in place by two screws on the kickplate. Remove them and jiggle the cover off. The power supply (electric line) enters a little box. Remove the cover, and disconnect the power. Take the wire from the box and immediately attach a wire nut to each bare wire. This is a safety measure in case some one turns the power on too early.

Now disconnect the water supply. The water line is usually a small diameter soft copper line that enters the front of the dishwasher. Use an adjustable open end wrench and rotate the brass compression nut counterclockwise. Once, loose, the pipe should pop right out.

The drain line is simply a flexible black hose that often is near the center of the work area. Loosen the clamp and pull it off.

The only thing stopping you from removing the machine are two screws that are located at the top of the dishwasher right where the countertop passes over the machine. Do you see them? Remove them and the machine should slide right out!

Installing The New Machine

The new machine should go in just like the old one came out. Make sure the adjustable leveling feet are not too high. This may cause the dishwasher to jamb as you slide it in place.

Get the machine level and make sure the reveal along each side looks good with the door closed. Be sure all of the leveling feet are touching the floor so the machine doesn't wobble. When you are satisfied with the fit, screw the dishwasher to the countertop.

I always recommend that you install a completely new flexible rubber drain line. The old one could rupture and cause a flood. Replace this line before you slide the dishwasher into place. Leave plenty of extra hose. It can be trimmed for length after you have the machine in place. Make sure the hose is not crimped!

Most dishwashers do not come with a special required fitting - a "dishwasher ell". This is a small 90 degree angle fitting that allows you to make a compression fitting connection to the machine. The outlet size of this fitting is critical! They come in two sizes: 3/8 and 1/4 inch. Take your old one off the other dishwasher and go to a plumbing supply house. From that fitting, they will be able to tell you the size. Don't forget to apply Teflon tape or pipe dope to the male threads when you install the new fitting into the dishwasher. Don't over tighten!! The place you attach this is often plastic. If you over tighten, you will split the plastic!

Reconnect the water line and power supply. Turn on the water first and check for leaks. Be sure the compression nut and brass o-ring are centered on the pipe when tightening! If you have no leaks, then turn on the power. Be sure all of the packing material is taken out of the machine before operating. Absolutely, read all the instructions before turning the machine on for the first time.

Read a tip about the dishwasher door gasket in the December 17, 2010 Newsletter.

Column B131

Furnace Payback

Posted on February 8, 2007 by Tim Carter

Heating Equipment Life Cycle Costs
Air Conditioning Purchasing Tips

Don't ask me why they do it. I don't know! Furnaces seem to have a service life of 20 to 25 years, whereas air conditioning condensing units (that big box outside your house) seem to only last for half that amount. This wasn't such a big deal 25 years ago. Energy conservation was not a big concern. Fuel costs were moderately low. Well, times have changed.

Thousands of people will be pondering what to do this year. Their air conditioning unit will give up the ghost. The salesperson will tell them how they should switch out that older 75 percent efficient furnace. Heck, the new furnaces operate at 90 percent or better, the salesperson will say. In fact, the furnace I'm going to let you have operates at 95 percent efficiency! Fuel saving will be enormous. Happy days are here again! ..... I can hear it now.

The Illusion

Here in Cincinnati, we have a 5 month heating season, November 1 through March 31. Some years, it stretches a little each way on chilly mornings. The point is this. To determine whether it is a good idea to switch out a furnace, you need to see if it makes sound economic sense.

Sometimes furnace and air conditioning people lead you to believe that you can save big bucks by switching out a furnace and/or air-conditioner that is still working fine. The numbers don't always add up. You need to do some math.

Let's look at a heating calculation. The first thing to do is to calculate what it actually costs you to heat your home. Select two bills from your last year's records. One should be from the early fall and the other from the late spring. These bills will show what your base load is for your utilities. Base load simply means all other costs less heating and cooling costs. If you add the two bills together and divide by two you will get an averaged value.

Now, take your bills from last year when you know the furnace was running for any period whatsoever. Subtract the averaged base load amount from each bill. This will give you the extra each month you are paying to heat your house. This is not an exact science, as your electric bills will tend to be higher as you get deeper into the winter, less daylight you know.

If you total the overage for each month, you will arrive at your annual heating cost. Let's consider this number. For sake of discussion, let's assume it is $800.

The Real Savings

Remember our salesperson? He talked about enormous savings. Is it true? Not really. Your existing 10 -12 year old furnace is possibly operating at a 75 percent efficiency level. The new furnace will operate at 95 percent. This is a 20 percent difference. The actual savings is 21 percent because you divide the 20 percent by 95 percent.

How does that relate to our example? Well, let's do the simple math. $800 times 21 percent savings per year equals a whopping $168. This isn't bad, but what does it really mean? You have to look a little deeper to find the answer. Interest Income - Significant

So what happens if you don't switch and get the new furnace? Will you go bankrupt? Will the utility company stockholders love you? How are you going to pay for that new furnace? From your savings? I thought so.

If you buy the new furnace your income stream gets slightly interrupted. In other words you loose the earning capability of the money you just gave to that salesperson!

Let's assume the new furnace will cost $3,500 (a reasonable amount). If you put that money in a certificate of deposit now, it will generate approximately 5 percent per year. That is $175.00 before tax. Accckkkk! You will loose money (before tax) if you buy the furnace!

If you have any investment success whatsoever (stocks, mutual funds, etc.), you can actually make significantly more money by not buying the new furnace, Many people fail to perform this vital second step in the analysis.

Another common mistake is to fail to recognize the payback time. In other words, how many years does it take to pay off the new system? For this calculation, you need to consider the rising cost of fuel. Assuming a 2 percent per year inflation in fuel costs, you need to multiply your annual cost by 11.07 to arrive at the total cost for the next 10 years. In our example, our fuel costs over the next ten years would be $800 times 11.07 which equals $8,856.

Our savings, remember, was 21 percent. So, we should expect to save $8,856 times 21 percent or $1,859.76. Yikes!!!!! In ten years, we have barely paid for half the cost of the new furnace. Not to mention the fact that we haven't offset the extra money we still have in the bank plus the interest it generated. It doesn't appear that switching a furnace that still works at a higher level of efficiency really pays.

Alternatives

OK, so your furnace has 10 - 15 years of useful life. Does that mean you do nothing to save money? No. There may be some options available. For example, you may choose to install a flue damper. These devices automatically shut off the flue trapping residual heat left in the furnace after the burner shuts off. These help save money and energy.

What about replacing that old standing pilot light with a spark ignitor? This might pay for itself. If you have an oil furnace, you might think of installing a flame retention burner. This can sometimes improve the efficiency of your oil furnace by 10 - 15 percent.

Talk to your heating contractor. See what options they recommend. Do the math. It is simple and only takes a few moments. You might be surprised by the figures.

A Quick Sample Calculation

OK, Ok, I'll show you how really simple it is to do one of these calculations. For your own situation, you need to just follow along. You will see just how simple it is to save money!

Late Spring Utility Bill Early Fall Utility Bill Total of both bills	$85.00 $95.00 --------- $180.00
Average Monthly Cost for Base Load utilities (no heating or cooling costs) ($180.00 divided by 2)	$90.00
Total Sum of Utility Bills for Nov., Dec., Jan., Feb. & March	$1,250.00
Less (minus) the Base Load for those 5 months (5 times $90.00)	$450.00
Annual Heating Cost (actual cost to heat with existing furnace)	$800.00
Projected Energy Savings with new furnace: Existing Furnace is 75 percent efficient New Furnace is 95 percent efficient 20 percent difference
Actual Savings is 20 percent divided by 95 percent which equals 21 percent
Savings per year with New Furnace ($800 current cost times 21 percent)	$168.00

You can take it from here. To finish the calculation, simply obtain a quote from the heating salesperson for the cost of the new furnace. Then find out what your local bank is paying for their CD's. Or, use the rate of return you have been averaging on your stocks, bonds, or mutual funds. Do you make more money in interest each year than what you will save? I thought so!

Tips on Purchasing a New Air Conditioner

Efficiency Ratings - Watch Out!

Air conditioners are not all created equal. Some perform much better than others. They are rated using a numeric system referred to as a SEER rating. The higher this number, the better the machine is at converting electricity to cooling. SEER ratings of 12 to 14 are not uncommon.

However, if your air conditioner fails and you replace it, the new unit may not deliver this promised efficiency. The SEER rating is calculated using specific inside matched coils and air velocity. It is very complicated. In order for you to achieve the high efficiency performance promised on the yellow sticker, you may have to make modifications inside your house. Discuss this possibility with your heating/cooling contractor. If this person looks puzzled or says "Huhhhh?" when you bring this issue up, I suggest you call another contractor immediately.

Extended Warranties - Be Careful!

Just about every manufacturer of air conditioners offer extended warranty programs on parts and labor. However, you must be careful. Often a third party company handles this 'insurance'. That's what extended warranties really are. If you make a claim, it is no different than any other insurance loss. A manufacturer who backs its own warranties may be a better choice. Look before you sign!

Sizing Air Conditioning Equipment

Did your last air conditioner not work too well? Don't blame it on low efficiency! It may not have been sized properly! A new unit sized the same will perform poorly no matter how efficient it is! I covered this topic extensively in Builder Bulletin 31. You may wish to send in for it if you don't already have it. Heat gain calculations are a must! Make your contractor perform these important calculations! It is not uncommon in new subdivisions for all the houses of a similar size to have the same sized air conditioner. Did you know this is possibly a mistake? The size of the air conditioner is a function of many thing, including but not limited to, the number of occupants, the compass direction the house faces, the number of windows, and types and quantity of interior lighting. If you have made changes in your windows and have new Low-E glass, your cooling requirements may even be less! All of these things need to be calculated. Computer programs do it very quickly. Ask for proof of these calculations before you sign the contract for the new unit. Remember, the first guy could have goofed. If they simply put in the same sized unit as you have, it could be wrong.

Projected Energy Savings Table

This table says it all in my book. I have already shown you how to determine your real annual heating costs. See where your costs plug into the table in the first column. The second column shows you the savings the HVAC sales person tells you that you will achieve should you switch from a 70 to a 95 percent efficient furnace. They quickly say that within X years you get a payoff and start saving money. Not so fast! What happens if gas rates go down? The payoff takes longer. Well, gas rates doubled in some areas this past winter. What happens if they are cut in half and drop down to where they were last year? The payoff time could double or triple OR extend beyond the life of the furnace!

Annual Heating Costs	Savings Switching from 70% to a 95% Efficient Gas Furnace	Annual Savings if Gas Costs DROP 10%	Annual Savings if Gas Costs DROP 20%	Annual Savings if Gas Costs DROP 30%
$1,200	$300	$270	$240	$210
$1,000	$250	$225	$200	$175
$800	$200	$190	$160	$140
$600	$150	$135	$120	$105
$400	$100	$90	$80	$70

Column B346

HVAC Payback Tips

Posted on February 7, 2007 by Tim Carter

The Illusion

Here in Cincinnati, we have a five month heating season, November 1 through March 31. Some years, it stretches a little each way on chilly mornings. The point is this. To determine whether it is a good idea to switch out a furnace, you need to see if it makes sound economic sense.

Sometimes, furnace and air conditioning people lead you to believe that you can save big bucks by switching out a furnace and/or air-conditioner that is still working fine. The numbers don't always add up. You need to do some math.

If you total the overage for each month, you will arrive at your annual heating cost. Let's consider this number. For sake of discussion, let's assume it is $800.

The Real Savings

If you buy the new furnace your income stream gets slightly interrupted. In other words you loose the earning capability of the money you just gave to that salesperson!

Alternatives

Talk to your heating contractor. See what options they recommend. Do the math. It is simple and only takes a few moments. You might be surprised by the figures.

A Quick Sample Calculation

OK, Ok, I'll show you how really simple it is to do one of these calculations. For your own situation, you need to just follow along. You will see just how simple it is to save money!

Late Spring Utility Bill Early Fall Utility BillTotal of both bills	$85.00 $95.00 --------- $180.00
Average Monthly Cost for Base Load utilities (no heating or cooling costs) ($180.00 divided by 2)	$90.00
Total Sum of Utility Bills for Nov., Dec., Jan., Feb. & March	$1,250.00
Less (minus) the Base Load for those 5 months (5 times $90.00)	$450.00
Annual Heating Cost (actual cost to heat with existing furnace)	$800.00
Projected Energy Savings with new furnace: Existing Furnace is 75 percent efficient New Furnace is 95 percent efficient 20 percent difference
Actual Savings is 20 percent divided by 95 percent which equals 21 percent
Savings per year with New Furnace ($800 current cost times 21 percent)	$168.00

Tips on Purchasing a New Air Conditioner

Efficiency Ratings - Watch Out!

Extended Warranties - Be Careful!

Sizing Air Conditioning Equipment

Projected Energy Savings Table

Annual Heating Costs	Savings Switching from 70% to a 95% Efficient Gas Furnace	Annual Savings if Gas Costs DROP 10%	Annual Savings if Gas Costs DROP 20%	Annual Savings if Gas Costs DROP 30%
$1,200	$300	$270	$240	$210
$1,000	$250	$225	$200	$175
$800	$200	$190	$160	$140
$600	$150	$135	$120	$105
$400	$100	$90	$80	$70

Column B346

Water Saving Toilets Installation and Manufacturers

Posted on February 7, 2007 by Tim Carter

Almost three months ago, I was involved in an inspection. A homeowner hired me to look at some problems in their year old home. They had numerous complaints. The main reason I was there was to determine the source of water which was pouring through their brick walls.

At one point in our discussion, the homeowner indicated how frustrated he was with the whole house. He even mentioned his dislike of the toilets! Evidently, the toilets required more than one flush to rid themselves of waste products. The homeowner was dissatisfied. His problem was the inspiration for this column and bulletin!

Interesting Facts

Once I started doing my research, I found out some very interesting things. Older toilets used up to 5 gallons of water to flush. Not only that, they used additional water as the tank filled. Engineering requirements were at a minimal since there was so much water to do the job.

Further research found that the siphon and swirl action of toilets was an engineering innovation that helped to clean the bowl. Toilets made prior to WW II didn't have this feature. The water would rush straight down from the bowl rim. As a plumber, I have serviced many of these straight flush toilets.

Furthermore, the more water that sits in the bowl prior to a flush, the more energy is required to replace this water and get it moving towards your sewer or septic line.

Water Shortages

Water shortages in the mid 1980's in various parts of the country caused local officials to institute water conservation measures. It had long been known that toilets consumed the greatest amount of water each day in the average home. The pressure was on to reduce this water usage. Regional changes in the plumbing codes caused plumbing fixture companies to create low flush toilets. These dudes only were to use 1.6 gallons of water per flush. The manufacturers weren't prepared.

Big Changes

Two things immediately changed in the toilets: the quantity of the water in the bowl and the size of the trapway in the bowl were reduced. This led to two problems: the water 'spot' or surface area of water in the bowl shrank and solid matter was more prone to clogging in the bowl. The manufacturers had to play catch-up baseball. Their engineers started putting in some long nights.

The reduced amount of water per flush also brought another problem: less energy. 1.6 gallons of water dropped from the same height as 5 gallons can only perform about one-third the work. Yikes!!!!!

Click here to watch a video on how a toilet works.

Using Available Resources

Every plumbing system I'm aware of uses pressurized water lines to get the water to your faucets and toilets. A few engineers thought to use this available resource. They designed a simple tank which begins to fill with water. Soon the pressure of the waterline can force no additional water into the tank.

The tank now holds a certain volume of water (never more than 1.6 gallons) and pressurized air. As soon as the tank lever is pressed, the water is rapidly forced from the tank into the bowl. It has lots of energy. You have seen this happen at most commercial bathrooms. The result is dramatic. Water and waste are jettisoned into the sewage system.

Function vs. Form

The toilet company engineers have been working hard to match the performance of these pressure assist devices. They are making progress. We are now in the third generation of low flush, gravity 1.6 gallon toilets.

Both toilets have their pluses and minuses. The gravity flush toilets are quiet. They often have a sleek profile. The pressure assist toilets make a brief loud rush of noise. They get the job done. They are available in a wide range of designs, both one and two piece.

The good news is this. If you have a poorly performing 1st generation toilet, you can possibly retrofit a pressure tank to make it work properly.

Water conservation is important. Take your time to acquaint yourself with the two types. See which one will work best for you. Time will continue to supply us with better models.

Manufacturers of Water Saving Toilets

Because of building and plumbing code changes virtually every toilet manufacturer has a water saving toilet. Those that don't can't sell here in the USA! As you would expect, each manufacturer has several different models. Most manufacturers have gravity flush and pressure assist flush models. There are pros & cons to each one. If you want to be assured of great flushes, choose a pressure assist model. If you don't like the sound of a commercial toilet and want to gamble on sewer clogs, choose a gravity model. The pressure assist mechanism that virtually every toilet manufacturer uses is made by the same company. It is called Flushmate which is a division of the Sloan Valve Company. If you want some great literature on this pressure assist system, call 800-875-9116. Often you can retrofit an existing poor performing gravity toilet with the Flushmate pressure assist device. There may be no reason to buy an entirely new toilet! Consider calling the following manufacturers for fantastic literature & distributors in your area.

American Standard 800-524-9797 x100
Briggs Industries 813-878-0178
Eljer Plumbingware 800-42-ELJER
Gerber 708-675-6570
Kohler 414-457-4441
Mansfield 419-938-5211
Peerless Pottery Sales 866-457-5785
Universal Rundel 800-955-0316

Comparison Study

As you might expect there have been comparison studies done on these toilets. The best one I have seen was in the February 1995 issue of Consumer Reports. I encourage you to get a back issue or visit your local library. This particular study was extremely thorough.

Every imaginable thing that could be compared between manufacturers was compared. There is even a chart which illustrates possible payback periods based on water costs and usage. This study is a must see if you are going to replace all of your toilets or are building a new home.

Installing a Residential Toilet (A piece of Cake!)

A Creampuff

Toilets are intimidating plumbing fixtures. Just look inside one. What about the mysterious connection at the floor. Oh, don't forget, there is the supply tube you have to bend just so. Time to call the plumber? Not so fast! You can do it. Toilets are simple.

Connection Components

Residential toilets connect in almost all instances to a 3 inch drain line. At the floor level, this drain line converts to a toilet flange. This flange is basically a flair fitting that does two things: It provides a way to make a positive air/watertight seal and a way for you to bolt the toilet to the floor. The flange must be a certain distance away from the back wall if you want your toilet to fit snugly against the wall. The standard measurement for most toilets is 12 inches. If a floor joist is in your way, you may need to go 2 inches in either direction (10 or 14"). If so, you would need an a special toilet bowl. Beware, as these are usually much more expensive. If faced with this situation try what is called an offset flange. It may allow you to use a standard 12" toilet.

Click here to watch a toilet flange installation tip video.

A Dry Run

I always want my toilets to be level. As such, I uncrate the bowl (the tank and the bowl are two parts - unless you have a 1 piece toilet) and simply set it on the flange. Do not use the wax gasket at this point (don't worry, I'll explain)! Set your level across the bowl side to side and front to back. Using shims if necessary, make the bowl level. Gently lift the toilet off the flange keeping the shims in place.

The Wax Gasket & Bolts

A wax gasket is used to make a permanent seal between the flange and the bottom of the toilet. Without this gasket, sewer gas or wastewater would flood your house. They come two ways: with and without a plastic horn. The horn is a simple funnel which directs the wastewater into the flange. I always get a gasket with a horn. Place the gasket onto the flange pointing the horn down into the flange. Now install the new closet bolts that attach the toilet to the flange. Take the bowl, straddle the flange and guide the bowl onto the gasket and the bolts. Be careful!! You only get one chance. Use a friend to help guide you or to position the bolts. The toilet will hit the gasket and seem to rock. Gently push the toilet down to the shims trying to keep it reasonably level. Attach the necessary trim washers, brass washers, and tighten the nuts. Remember, you are tightening against glass so don't go crazy and overtighten!

The Tank

This is the easy part. Reading the toilet instructions you will see that two or thee bolts, rubber washers, and brass nuts hold the tank to the bowl. There is a foam washer that fits on the bottom of the tank to provide a seal to the bowl. This is easier than a kid's erector set. As you tighten the tank bolts, be sure to level it. It is a breeze.

Supply Tubes

If chrome supply tubes make you pull your hair out, why not use a PVC tube? They bend easily. In either case, once you have the tube attached loosely at the bottom of the toilet and in the valve, tighten the nut up at the tank first. Now, make sure that the tube is leaving the valve squarely. If the tube is at an angle, there is a very good chance you will have a pin hole leak once the compression nut is tightened around the o-ring. This connection is the toughest to make, so take your time. If all goes well, there will be no leaks. However, leaks at compression fitting sometimes show up hours or days later. Put a paper towel under it and check it periodically.

Grout

Finish the installation with tile grout. Fill the space between the toilet and floor with grout. Grout up to the shims. Let this grout dry, remove the shims and grout the remaining holes. Total toilet project completion time: 1 to 1.5 hours!

Column B120

Must Have Construction Photographs

Posted on February 7, 2007 by Tim Carter

Fifty Must Have Photographs

One day, I received a phone call from a homeowner who was frantic. It seems that water was leaking into her basement. I indicated that I could come right over. Upon my arrival, I determined the cause of the leak within a few minutes. Apparently the homeowner was hanging a picture on a wall. The nail they used punctured a water line leading to the second floor bathroom. The repair was simple. It could have been avoided had the homeowner been able to view photographs of what was behind the drywall.

The Facts

Do you know someone who has been involved in a dispute with a contractor? I do. This individual was awarded $5,000.00 in an arbitration dispute based on one photograph. Now that was a valuable photo! Cameras don't lie, people do. The arbitrator believed what he saw in the photograph.

Establishing an entire set of construction photographs is important. Early in a job, you may catch something on film that may turn out to be extremely important at a later date. Remember, no one plans to square off with their contractor in a dispute. Having the facts on film may be your saving grace.

Improved Versatility

Still photography works fine for certain things. However, sometimes you need an instant photo. Instant photography has come a long way. The quality of the images and the cameras themselves are really quite good. Instant photos allow you to verify that you did, in fact, get the shot. This can be very important for things that are in the process of being covered or buried.

Video cameras have even greater powers. You can couple a verbal description or sound of the shot with the moving picture. Zoom lenses allow for detailed closeup images. Construction activity comes to life on video tape. Saws, drills, backhoes, and any other mechanical device creates construction noise that will bring back memories when you play back the video.

Still photos with a conventional camera offer you the best opportunity to get crisp shots. Often you may need a closeup shot of a trim molding detail. Or, you may want a crisp photo of a chimney under construction. Instant photos and video shots are sometimes fuzzy. Use conventional photography for those really important photos.

Before & After Shots

It is always a delight to compare before shots and after shots of a project. All too often, however, people forget to take the before shots. Remember, these shots can't be reproduced! Once demolition commences, you are out of luck.

I always recommend that you take the before shots a week in advance of the start up of a job. Get these photos developed to insure that you are pleased with the lighting, focus, etc. Take photos from different angles. That single photo you see in a magazine may have been selected from over 15 or 20 shots! Don't be miserly with the film.

Using A Scale

If you are taking a closeup shot of an object, wall, etc., always use something in the photo to denote the size of what you are shooting. A coin, a ruler, yardstick, or some other common standard sized object will work well. I learned this trick in my geology classes. We always had to have a scale in the photo. If not, the photo got an instant "F".

The scale in the photograph allows you or an independent third party to accurately determine the size of what you are shooting. This can really be useful if photographing cracks, holes, or other defects.

Establish A Routine

The trick to successful construction photography is establishing a shooting routine. Take your cameras to the jobsite daily. Photograph as much activity as you can each day. Remember, a photo may reveal an important clue to a problem that develops years from now.

Consider using a camera that imprints the date and time on your film. These cameras will establish a time frame of job progress. This can be used to recreate a diary of daily or weekly activity.

Be sure to photograph every wall of the house just before it is insulated or covered with drywall or paneling. You want to know what is behind every wall. Trust me, it may save you from making an embarrassing call to a plumber.

50 Construction Photos Every Homeowner Should Have

The following list is a basis for your construction photography album. In actuality, I would like to see you have 200 or more photos of a job. Create a budget of $100 for photographing your next project. This will buy at least 300 photos at my local film developer. This investment will pay off at a later date. I guarantee it!

Get a shot of footer form work before it is poured. This photo should show the thickness of the footer, and the steel rods which are a must!
Shoot the footer after the forms are stripped. You can see the keyway in the top of the footer and any honeycombing on the sides.
Try to get a shot of the foundation as it being constructed. Look for steel rods in the forms. Look for steel in concrete block work.
Shoot the drain tile in various stages of installation.
Shoot the foundation waterproofing.
Get a shot of utility trenches. Include permanent landmarks to help locate trenches at a future date. Shoot quality of backfill. Note rocks in fill.
Shoot closeup of mud sill treated lumber and sealer material on top of foundation.
Shoot anchor bolts with nuts securely tightened.
Take shoots of rough framing as house is built. Get closeups of typical joist hanger installations.
Shoot photos of structural headers over windows and doors.
Shoot photos of any and all structural connectors such as hold down anchors, hurricane clips, etc. Be sure to get closeups of nail heads.
Shoot installation of vapor barriers beneath concrete work.
Shoot photos of concrete finishers, especially if they are sprinkling water on a slab while they are finishing it! This photo(s) could be worth thousands or a new driveway, take your pick!
Shoot pictures of all plumbing piping that will be covered by gravel or concrete. You need to know the layout of the pipes!
Photograph all rough plumbing after it is completed.
Photograph the wood ceilings and attic spaces. This will show bridging and truss bracing.
Shoot all exterior downspout drain pipes. Shoot the trenches before the pipes are covered.
Shoot all electric wire locations before insulation or drywall is installed.
Photograph all other mechanical, electrical, etc. installations which will be covered.
Shoot location of exterior underground wiring to post lamps or any other exterior fixture.
Shoot inside photos of windows after installation. Note shims and nail locations.
Shoot inside photos of exterior doors after installation. Note shims, nails, and presence of under door caulk or flashing.
Shoot exterior before covering with brick or siding. Is air/water barrier in place? Is it taped properly?
Shoot brick or stone as it is first laid.
Get closeup shots of brick or stone flashings. Especially at corners and overlapping joints.
Get a shot of mortar droppings behind first courses of brick or stone.
Verify that masonry weep holes are NOT clogged.
Shoot installation / spacing of brick & stone wall ties.
Shoot numerous photos of chimney/fireplace construction.
Photograph drywall BEFORE it is finished. Note number of nails/screws in each panel. Do walls and ceilings. Get a typical shot.
Shoot the wood subfloor. Note nailing pattern.
Shoot underside of wood floors. Look for nails that missed joists.
Shoot insulation in walls.
Get close up shots of insulation around windows and doors.
Shoot vapor barrier installation.
Photograph exterior painting process. Was trim wood & siding backprimed?
Shoot driveway installation. Verify thickness of concrete or blacktop. Note steel or gravel thickness.
Shoot photos of all wood blocking locations in bathrooms before drywall is installed. Blocks are for towel bars, TP holders, etc. They provide a solid area for fixture attachment.
Shoot close ups of can or bottle labels of important products. May need this info at a later date.
Shoot roof felt installation.
Shoot shingle installation for pattern purposes.
Shoot chimney and wall flashings.
Shoot ceramic tile installation.
Get photos of storage of materials on site. How is lumber covered / elevated off ground?
Shoot photos of mortar bags. Need brand for matching purposes at a later date.
Shoot brick labels on cubes. See above!
Shoot weekly progress photos of job. Try to shoot from same vantage point.
Shoot anything that you know will be hidden or covered by any building material.
Photograph landscaping process at foundation.
Photograph Happy Completion Party! (I hope!)

Column B108

Stainless Steel Sink Care

How Many Types of Stainless Steel are There?

Is Stainless Steel The Ultimate Sink?

Does the Metal Thickness Vary?

Can You Make Stainless Sinks Quiet?

Can Stainless Steel Corrode?

Stainless Steel Do's and Don'ts

Carpet Pads / Cushions Insulating Underlayment

Carpet Backing

Cushions are the Foundation

Thinner is Better (Often)

Carpets Over Concrete Slabs

Sound Control

Selecting a Carpet Cushion

Insulating Fiberboard

Carpet Cushion Insulating Values

Standard & Electronic Dishwashers: Installation & Energy Guidelines

Installing A Dishwasher - New Or Remodel

Installing The New Machine

Heating Equipment Life Cycle Costs Air Conditioning Purchasing Tips

The Illusion

The Real Savings

Alternatives

A Quick Sample Calculation

Tips on Purchasing a New Air Conditioner

Efficiency Ratings - Watch Out!

Extended Warranties - Be Careful!

Sizing Air Conditioning Equipment

Projected Energy Savings Table

The Illusion

The Real Savings

Alternatives

A Quick Sample Calculation

Tips on Purchasing a New Air Conditioner

Efficiency Ratings - Watch Out!

Extended Warranties - Be Careful!

Sizing Air Conditioning Equipment

Projected Energy Savings Table

Expert Advice For Your Home

Standard & Electronic Dishwashers:
Installation & Energy Guidelines

Heating Equipment Life Cycle Costs
Air Conditioning Purchasing Tips