Bathroom Lighting

Posted on October 28, 2006 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: Bathroom lighting is my current project, as I have two bathrooms that are being completely remodeled. What bathroom lighting fixtures have you had success with in your jobs? In the largest bathroom, contemporary lighting might interest me. Can I install one of those nifty makeup light and mirror fixtures that I often see in hotel bathrooms, or are those only permitted in commercial buildings? Carol S., Manassas, VA

DEAR CAROL: I don't know if there is a silver bullet when it comes to bathroom lighting and bathroom lighting fixtures. There are many wonderful options, and I think your biggest problem is going to be limiting your selections to just a few. When you visit a real lighting supply house that just sells lighting fixtures, I predict you will develop a mild headache from the mind-numbing task of looking at all of the delightful lighting fixtures.

To make matters worse, most lighting supply houses only display five or 10 percent of the light fixtures that are available. Be prepared to spend hours looking through catalogs that contain thousands of photos of bathroom lighting fixtures.

This halogen light is also an intake duct for a remote bathroom fan. The halogen bulb produces a brilliant white light. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

The best success stories I can share come from both personal experience, and many of the jobs I have completed over the years. Believe it or not, I am still learning how to best utilize light in bathrooms. New bathroom configurations and layouts create new bathroom lighting opportunities. The trick is to approach each job or bathroom with a new attitude.

The first thing to consider is that you have two lighting sources, and both should be considered. I think that people often underutilize and neglect natural lighting options. Windows, skylights and tubular lights that pipe sunlight into a bathroom should used whenever possible. There is no substitute, in my opinion, for brilliant sunlight streaming into a bathroom space in the morning. It is a wonderful way to start the day. Bathrooms that face away from the sun can benefit from skylights that reflect natural light from the sky and clouds. The same is true for windows, as they will let light in no matter which direction they face.

Artificial bathroom lighting is what most of us are used to. Standard light fixtures that use any number of different types of incandescent light bulbs can be found in tens of thousands of bathrooms across the land. But newer halogen and energy-efficient fluorescent bulbs should be considered, as they create a different palette of color. Be aware that different bulbs produce noticeable color spectrums ranging from a warmish golden hue to a blistering white light as you might experience outdoors at high noon on a cloudless day in the mountains.

The biggest mistake you can make in bathroom lighting is to have too little. My experience has shown that you need 300 watts of incandescent lighting per 50 square feet of bathroom. You can have more, but I think you will discover quickly that more than 8 watts per square foot could be overkill.

A combination of different lighting fixtures almost always produces a magical effect. I call this layering light. In my daughter's bathroom, I installed two recessed halogen lights over the vanity that are operated on a separate switch. Two other recessed lights, one in the center of the room and one over the tub, are operated by a second switch. When just one switch is on, the bathroom has a nice welcoming glow. When both are on, the bathroom lighting is just right for bathing or brushing your teeth.

Indirect bathroom lighting is another trick that many people seem to ignore. This form of lighting forces the builder/remodeler and the electrician to hide the actual light fixture, and bounce light from it onto a wall or a ceiling. Indirect bathroom lighting is ideal if you are going for a dramatic look. It is a great way to highlight wallpaper or decorative elements in a bathroom.

You can do contemporary lighting and switch to a different style in a few years. Almost all electrical lighting fixtures mount to the same electric boxes in walls and ceiling. Plan ahead to make sure you have enough side wall and ceiling clearance for most larger fixtures. Installing those lighted makeup mirrors is easy. They connect to a standard wall electrical box. Be sure the box is firmly attached to a stud or wood blocking in the wall.

Visit model homes on weekends to get real-time bathroom lighting ideas. I also urge you to look at many of the home design and decorating magazines for other ideas of unique bathroom lighting.

Be sure all moving doors in wall cabinets and medicine cabinets are able to operate fully and not hit lighting fixtures. Some lighting fixtures can be mounted too closely to mirrors and cabinets creating huge problems once you discover they are in the way and interfere with you gaining access to a cabinet.

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Electrical Safety

Posted on October 15, 2006 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I am a new homeowner and know virtually nothing about electrical safety issues. Not listening to my parents is now coming back to haunt me. What kind of electrical safety program do I need to follow around my new home to stay safe? Are there specific electrical safety requirements I should and should not do? Think of me as a dry sponge ready to soak up all the knowledge you can afford to share. Melinda A., College Station, TX

DEAR MELINDA: You can soak up all the knowledge and water you can handle, but let's agree to keep electricity from finding its way into your body. High voltage electrical current found in just about every residential home is a double-edged sword. It lights our homes when it is dark, allows us to do things with ease by powering tools, appliances and motors and it can help keep us warm. But electricity can be a wicked dragon that is unforgiving if you make a mistake. People die each day from electrical-related accidents or fires.

Be sure the screws that secure electrical wires to outlets and switches are tight. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

Electrical safety begins when most people are small children. But it is shocking how much the average person does not know about the electricity found in the average home. I can't serve this topic the justice it deserves in the limited amount of space I have, but I will try to cover what I feel are some of the most important points.

The experts in electricity work each day to help protect us from all sorts of dangers. Much of this knowledge is in the National Electric Code (NEC). These rules and regulations, when followed, allow electricity to be helpful instead of harmful. If you ever do any electrical work in your home, or hire someone else to do it, make sure the work is performed in accordance with the NEC. Electrical inspectors will come to your home for a reasonable fee to ensure the wiring work is installed correctly.

Electrical cables in your home that feed outlets and switches usually contain three separate wires. You should find a black, white and bare copper wire in each cable. The black wire is supposed to be the charged conductor, the white wire is considered the neutral and the bare copper wire is the ground wire. If an exposed energized black wire touches an exposed white wire or ground wire, you get a dead short that will produce a large amount of sparks and a shower of molten metal as the wires become a small arc-welding machine. The circuit breakers or fuses in a circuit panel are designed to turn off the current if this happens. But if they fail, the sparking and arcing can continue. You often see this with downed power lines.

The electrical cables in your home come in different sizes. The common sizes are 14 gauge and 12 gauge. 14 gauge cable is rated for 15 amperes and 12 gauge is rated for 20 amperes of current. The wires within each cable can only carry so much electricity safely. The circuit breakers or fuses in an electrical panel are made to match these same amount of amperes.

If you ever add additional cable or even a new circuit to your home, the cable size must match the circuit breaker or fuse size. If you install a 14 gauge cable on a 20 ampere circuit, the wire can overheat and start a fire long before the circuit breaker or fuse would ever shut off the current flowing through the circuit.

Be very careful when using extension cords. Never run them under a carpet, through an operating window or door or place them where the cable can be cut or damaged. Never use an extension cord as a permanent way to provide power to something. I feel extension cords should just be used to supply temporary power for a short period of time.

Consult with a professional electrician and see what it would take to get your home up to the current code with respect to life-saving devices like ground-fault current interrupters and arc-fault circuit interrupters. These devices can take the place of existing circuit breakers in your electrical panel.

Never remove an older two-prong electrical outlet and install a three-pronged grounded outlet unless you are equipping that outlet with a code-approved ground wire. If you fail to ground the outlet, you are creating a situation where a future homeowner thinks the outlet is grounded.

If you live in an older home, the connections between the wires and the screws on outlets and switches may be loose and dangerous. In my own home I once heard a switch in a bathroom crackling and sizzling. I took the cover plate off and actually saw small electrical arcing that would have caused a fire within hours or days. If you do not feel comfortable checking switches and outlets, hire an electrician to do it for you.

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Garden Stepping Stones

Posted on October 14, 2006 by Tim Carter

These garden stepping stones are more formal. Thin paving brick were cemented to pre-cast concrete pads and sunk into the ground. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

Garden Stepping Stones

DEAR TIM: Garden stepping stones would prevent me from ruining my shoes each time I walk through my garden after a rain shower. What are my options when it comes to the different types of stones I can use? What size stones are best? Is there a preferred spacing? How does one prevent mud and mulch from covering the stones over time? What tips can you share to minimize the upcoming hard labor? Elizabeth M., Louisville, KY

DEAR ELIZABETH: Isn't it amazing how tranquil a walk in the garden can be? I get great pleasure from walking through and around the different shade gardens my wife has planted. The garden stepping stones she had me install not only add to the beauty of our gardens, but they also keep my shoes dry and mud-free.

The best stepping stones for garden paths are usually flat sedimentary or metamorphic rocks. Limestone, slate, flagstone, and quartzite are some of my favorite rock varieties. Coarse limestone that contains abundant fossils makes for a stepping stone that has superb slip-resistance and natural beauty. You are lucky to have this type of rock near your home. You might be able to get slabs from creek beds or road cuts on a state highway.

Quartzite is a very interesting garden stepping stone as many of them glitter when they are highlighted by sunbeams. When wet, quartzite can produce deep colors that may compliment your plants. This stone is also extremely durable and will wear better than iron.

You can also make your own stepping stones with concrete. Irregular molds and stamping kits allow you to create stepping stones that resemble cobblestones or slate. It is also quite easy to cement thin paving brick to pre-cast concrete slabs. These stepping stones look more formal, but the red brick really blends well with the shades of green found in just about every garden.

The sizing of the stones is fairly critical. A garden stepping stone that is too small offers a small target as you walk through the garden. Stones that are too big tend to overpower the pathway. I have found that garden stepping stones that are roughly 18 inches wide by 14 inches deep are ideal. The stones should be approximately 1 to 1.5 inches thick. They can be thicker, but this just creates more work for you as thicker means heavier.

The spacing of stepping stones is controlled by your gait. You can measure your gait easily by getting the bottom of your feet wet, and then walking on dry pavement. Measure the distance from the center of one footfall to the next. The odds are you will discover the average adult gait is approximately 24 inches. People who are taller with longer legs will have a longer gait.

To keep stepping stones free of mulch and mud, they should be installed so they are higher than the surrounding ground. Rookie gardeners frequently dig shallow holes and plant the stones as they would a plant making the top of the stones level with the surrounding dirt. This locks the stone in place, but also allows the stone to get covered easily with debris.

You can still make the stones look flush with the surface ground by placing dirt around the edges of the stones and then flaring this dirt out into the garden. Each stepping stone will then be a small plateau within the garden. The slope away from each stone will be so gentle you will not see it, but water will not flow up on the stones unless a Biblical storm inundates your garden.

Try not to carry the stones to your garden. Make use of a wheelbarrow or a two-wheeled cart used by deliverymen. Either tool allows you to bring the stones one by one into the garden with ease. I also urge you to wear thick gloves to protect your hands while working with the stones. You can easily pinch your fingers while trying to take stones from a stack.

If you decide to make your own stepping stones using paving brick, build them in place exactly where they will rest in your garden. The combined weight of paving brick, cement mortar and a pre-cast concrete pad for just one stepping stone can easily exceed 125 pounds or more.

Cold weather can cause frost to form in the soil. This may cause the stepping stones to tilt one way or another until such time as the ground thaws. If the stones are out of kilter after the spring thaw, level them by placing sand under the low part of the stone.

Natural stone will rarely require any maintenance. Harder stone like limestone, quartzite and shale will last generations. In fact, they will last thousands of years with little or no wear. Visit a stone supplier to get the widest variety of stones, and be sure to ask about durability and relative hardness. Stones that have a high quartz-mineral content will be harder and will last longer.

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City and Town Websites

Posted on October 8, 2006 by Tim Carter

Athens, Ohio http://www.ci.athens.oh.us/

Oakwood, Ohio http://www.ci.oakwood.oh.us/

Pittsburgh, PA http://www.city.pittsburgh.pa.us/

South Lake Tahoe, CA http://www.cityofslt.us/

Laconia, NH http://www.city.laconia.nh.us/

Lawton, OK http://www.cityof.lawton.ok.us/

Modesto CA http://www.ci.modesto.ca.us/

Elko, NV http://www.ci.elko.nv.us/

Preston, ID http://www.prestonidaho.org/

Home Depot and Sandy Fischler Long Beach California

Posted on October 7, 2006 by Tim Carter

On June 13, 2006, I stopped in at my local Home Depot (HD) in Lakewood, CA (where I have done thousands of dollars worth of past business, and have a long order history in their system) to set up installation for a Whole House Fan. Installation is advertised at Home Depot for $375.00 for install of the fan, electrical connection and wall switch installation included.

The very helpful gentleman at the front counter (I'll get his name when I make my next trip back) picked up the phone and called Installation Services himself to help me get things set up. After being on hold for far too long, he finally got through only to be told by Installation Services that there was no installation of Whole House Fans.

Multiple transfers later, someone tells him there is Installation of Whole House Fans. Another phone transfer tells us there is not. Finally, my wonderful HD staffer goes to his manager and explains the problem. The manager, named Rohan, informs us that the Whole House Fan installation is actually not a part of Installation Services and is a deal cut with a local installer.

Point #1: Management fails to communicate details on installation programs to staff. So, the manager writes up my installation order himself and all seems well. A week goes by and I did not hear from the installer to set up the appointment.

On June 18, 2006 I called Home Depot to find out what was causing the delay. I was put on hold for 10 minutes and forgotten about. I called back again, and finally got someone to pull up the order. Based upon what I was told, it seems the installation order was never faxed to the contractor. The desk person rectified this problem while I was on the line.

Point #2: There was no follow up with the contractor to complete the transaction. The next day, June 19, 2006, I get a voice mail message from Special Services at Home Depot telling me that there is a $50 "measuring fee" that has to be paid for them to come out to my home and inspect to make sure they can do the job. There was never any mention of a "measuring fee" on the in-store signage, the services flyer or by the manager when he input my service order.

I call Home Depot back, and was put on hold for a long time. Finally I hung up in frustration. I then called back a second and then third time. Finally, I spoke to someone who pulls up my order and can't do anything about it except notify the manager.

More time goes by. I go back to Home Depot again on Friday, June 21 to speak to the manager directly. He is not there, and another very helpful young man types in a note about the situation for the manager to deal with.

More days go by and I'm getting more and more displeased. On June 25, 2006 I go back to HD again, to try and find out what is going on. I discovered that phone calls are clearly useless. The manager is again not there, and not going to be for days. The poor guy at Special Services desk finally does the right thing and calls another manager to okay the waive of the $50 "measuring fee", and the order is once again faxed to the contractor for completion.

The guys from United Turbine finally show up to measure for the Whole House Fan on July 8th. They spend maybe 10 minutes looking up in the attic and pronounce the job a "piece of cake." They then tell me to check back with Home Depot on Tuesday July 11th to coordinate the final okay to schedule the install.

When the inspectors for United Turbine were at my house measuring for the job, they told me the company was "very busy right now, it will be a couple of weeks before we get out here." I wasn't happy to hear about this, but there wasn't much I could do about it.

I stop by HD on the appointed day, and they call over to the offices of United Turbine, but it turns out they still haven't input the measurements to give me a QUOTE for the installation. I remind them (HD) that I have already paid for my installation and they seem confused. The guy making the appointments tells me he will get back to me within the next day with the quote.

My bait-and-switch-o-meter is going off like crazy, but I decide to continue to play this out. More days go by. No word from HD or the installer. It has now been four weeks since I paid for the installation and started this process and I still have no Whole House Fan during one of the most brutal heat waves Southern California has seen in years.

On or about July 25, 2006, I went back to Home Depot again to complain about having not heard from United Turbine to schedule the install. The employee at the Special Services desk called United Turbine with me standing there to ask when they were going to complete my install that had been ordered back on June 13.

United Turbine tells the Home Depot staffer that they are "really busy, it will be a couple of weeks." I pitch a major fit, and all the employee of Home Depot can do is give a 10% discount coupon for my next shopping trip, authorized by the manager Rohan.

Today is August 21, 2006 and, SURPRISE, I still have not gotten my fan installed, and I have not heard a peep from United Turbine. I am cancelling the order this week, after having filed Better Business Bureau (BBB) complaints against both Home Depot and United Turbine.

I am no longer a Home Depot shopper. Home Depot corporate called me to check up on my BBB claim. They were not at all helpful and canceled my installation order without making any attempt to keep my business and make things right.

As you can imagine, I am so disgusted that I now drive seven miles out of my way to shop at Lowe's, where I've spent $800 since I swore off Home Depot in July. Home Depot's loss will be Lowe's gain.

For the record, I used to be Home Depot's biggest fan. I even owned stock in the company. I sold my stock last May after a horrible experience with the Home Depot online division (which I won't go into since your focus is on their Home Installation services) and the behavior of Nardelli and his board at the annual shareholders meeting last May.

Outdoor Fountains

Posted on October 2, 2006 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: Outdoor fountains have always put a smile on my face. But what should I look for in outdoor water fountains now that I am ready to install one? I am most interested in outdoor garden fountains and outdoor wall fountains. How do you make sure you get the right pump to provide just enough water flow? Are there any special things I should do when I install my new outdoor fountain? Marie M., Ocean City, NJ

DEAR MARIE: Fountains and outdoor living go together like a hot dog and a bun. My wife and I have had numerous outdoor fountains over the years, and several still work well each year when spring arrives. These garden accents provide us with great visual and audio pleasure when the water falls and splashes.

There are thousands of styles of outdoor fountains made from a multitude of materials. I have used fountains made from concrete, plastic and dense foam. Metal outdoor fountains and ones made with natural stone can be purchased with little effort.

This smaller outdoor fountain is a center point near our lower patio. Its gentle flow of water provides soothing sound, and a great place for birds to get some water. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

Unless you have an uphill stream on your lot, you are probably going to need electricity to power the recirculating pump that moves the water to the top of the fountain. Once there, it can flow down only to start its journey again and again as the water recirculates. Solar outdoor fountains allow you to use free energy, but remember that you will need batteries to power the pump at night and on cloudy days.

The pumps for fountains are very important. They must be durable, waterproof and sized correctly to match the desired water flow rate. The company that sells the fountain usually provides a pump that is made for the fountain. Many pumps are also equipped with water-flow regulators that allow you to fine tune the water flow once your fountain is set up.

If you live in a cold climate that experiences freezing temperatures, then you need to keep in mind that your outdoor fountain probably needs to be winterized. At the very least, I would consider removing the pump, and bring it indoors where it will not freeze and burst. I would then empty all water from the fountain and either store it a garage or shed or cover it with plastic so it can't refill from rain water or snow melt. Some outdoor fountains can resist freeze-thaw cycles, but others might be damaged. One of the precast concrete fountains I had crumbled in just three years.

Smaller outdoor fountains are easy to install and need little support. Often a level precast-concrete walking-path pad will suffice to give the needed support. But as fountains get larger, not only do they weigh a considerable amount, but so does the water used to fill the fountain. Very large fountains can weigh well over a thousand pounds, maybe more.

These large fountains need a substantial support base made using steel-reinforced concrete. The concrete pad must be perfectly level, and have a foundation that extends below the frost line if you live in a cold climate. Frost heave, in rare occasions, can actually tip over a poorly-supported outdoor fountain. At the very least, frost heave, over time, will make a poorly-built concrete pad unlevel.

If you do not like the look of concrete for the base under your fountain, keep in mind that the concrete can be covered with paving brick or natural stone to give your garden a softer or more pleasing feeling. You can add color pigments to the concrete if you like or buy do-it-yourself stamping kits to add texture while the concrete is getting hard.

Many outdoor fountain pumps require high voltage electric (120 volts or higher) to power the them. Be sure the electric circuit and all outdoor electrical components are installed according to the National Electric Code. Electricity and water make for a lethal mix if the electricity is not treated with the utmost respect. Do not cut corners. Have the work inspected to ensure the safety of you and your loved ones.

Many outdoor fountains are colored with pigments, some of which can fade in the sun over time. When talking with salespeople, ask about color fade. Be sure your fountain comes with a color-fade warranty.

If you would like to use your outdoor fountain during the winter months, and it does drop below freezing where you live, I suggest you look into a heater to help keep the water above the freezing point. I have used a small heater for years in my bird baths that prevents the water from freezing even when the air temperature falls below 0 F. In very cold weather, the water can freeze on the cold surfaces of the fountain and create an ice buildup. Watch for this, and only operate the fountain when the water does not turn to ice.

Be sure to use stainless-steel fasteners when mounting an outdoor wall fountain. Stainless steel will not rust over time as traditional galvanized steel can. Many good hardware stores sell a variety of stainless-steel bolts and anchors.

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Hardware Store

Posted on September 30, 2006 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I have a need for both cabinet hardware and door hardware. I visited my local home hardware store and didn't have too much luck. The hardware store had all sorts of traditional nuts, bolts, nails, paint, rope and some of the things I was looking for, but not the variety I desired. I know this sounds crazy, but are there two different types of hardware stores? While we are on the subject, how do you feel about traditional hardware stores as opposed to the giant big-box home-center stores? Where do you shop for the things you need? Annette M., Hawthorne, FL

DEAR ANNETTE: You are not the first, nor will you be the last, person to get confused about the term hardware store. Many years ago, I was also perplexed about why two entirely different businesses had the same name. But once I got deep into the building business, I quickly figured out that there were two totally different types of hardware stores.

The hardware store you visited is more popular and known to many. They typically stock thousands of items that a homeowner needs. Some of these stores are wonderful places to shop, because you can get into and out of them quickly with the exact screw, nail, plumbing fitting, electrical switch, window weatherstripping, etc. that you need. There is rarely a long line of people waiting to check out, although lately the small hardware store I patronize is getting busier by the day as people grow frustrated with the local home centers.

This is a traditional corner hardware store near my home. It is a thriving business for many reasons, not the least of which is fantastic value and service. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

The hardware store you were looking for exists in many cities and larger towns. These hardware stores specialize in cabinet hardware, door hardware, door hinges, cabinet knobs, drawer pulls and some have a full line of specialty plumbing fixtures. Many of these items are referred to as hardware by architects, designers, builders and carpenters. I buy my cabinet and door hardware from a magnificent store near my home that has thousands of unique door knobs, hinges, cabinet knobs and every type of hook, latch or accent hardware you might ever install on the inside or outside of a home.

If you do not have a specialty hardware store near you that has the cabinet hardware and door hardware you want, I suggest you get on the Internet. There are many businesses there that also sell a vast amount of high-quality hardware for very fair prices. The merchandise can be shipped to your doorstep, which may help save you valuable travel time.

Unfortunately, changes in the business world are making it harder for parents to imprint in their child's memories the coziness and quaintness of a traditional corner hardware store. I have distinct memories of both sights and smells of a hardware store, and fortunately for me, I still have several of these magical stores within miles of my own home. I will go out of my way to buy from them, so as to help them stay in business.

The giant home center chains have forced some of the weaker, poorly-managed, traditional hardware stores to close, and others to become affiliated with large national chains that give them the purchasing and branding power of the giant home centers. Competition can be a good thing, but sadly some small businesses have suffered.

How many tons of nails do you think this scale has weighed in its lifetime? I'll bet the scale is at least 80 years old, maybe more. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

But I do also buy products, from time to time, at the big-box home-center stores. The smaller hardware store I visit is not open as many hours as the giant national home centers. If I didn't plan right or have an emergency, I will go to a home center to get what I need. But I must tell you that I do not look forward to going, nor do I relish the thought of dodging fork-lift trucks while I walk deep into a giant store to find one small item that is awash in a sea of products. My frustration is often compounded when I have to wait five or 10 minutes in the checkout line.

Be aware that many older door hardware items are still available. For example, if you want an interior door lock set that is operated with a skeleton key, you can readily buy them. They are exquisite pieces of door hardware. Beefy traditional square-tipped door hinges can also be purchased that will dress up the doors in your home.

Some of the specialty hardware stores carry one-of-a-kind hand-painted knobs for that special cabinet you are going to buy. Each knob matches the others, but there are subtle differences since each one is created by a human instead of a mindless machine.

Artisans also work with metal to make fabulous door and cabinet knobs, back plates and pulls. If you want a truly distinctive look for the cabinets, doors and windows in your home, invest the time to find a specialty hardware supplier in your town. If they can't be found locally, I guarantee you will find them online.

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Solar Power

Posted on September 24, 2006 by Tim Carter

Solar power, in my opinion, will solve a majority of our future power problems. Many people I talk to wonder about solar power, and how it works. I am currently using one of the many solar power systems that are available to exhaust hot air from my attic, but more on that very interesting fan in a few moments.

You might wonder if there are distinct advantages and disadvantages of solar power. There are indeed pluses and minuses, but I can tell you it works as friends of mine currently capture the sun's rays and transform this solar power into electricity for their home in Colorado. Their home solar power system produces so much electricity, it allows them to sell electricity back to the local utility company! Yes, their electrical meter sometimes runs backwards. The future for solar energy and residential solar power is as bright as new penny. In fact, I even have a portable solar power radio that my friends think is the coolest thing around.

The reasons solar power is so attractive are simple. The sun is always on, it produces energy very consistently, the solar energy is clean and it is free. Many people don't realize the sun is responsible for a vast majority of all the energy we currently have on our planet. The few exceptions to this are the naturally-occurring radioactive elements that fuel nuclear power plants, gravity which allows flowing water to produce hydro-electric power and the moon's gravity which produces the daily ocean tides. Energy is created in any number of ways from these processes and others to be sure.

This is the solar panel that produces the electricity to run my attic ventilation fan. You can see the round dome of the fan on the other roof slope. It is different looking from the visible brown static pot vents that do not have fans working to remove the hot air. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

Wind energy comes from solar power that is created when the sun heats up different parts of the earth and atmosphere which in turn creates weather systems. Solar energy causes plants to grow which are then transformed into coal, oil, natural gas, propane, etc. by geologic processes. But the trouble with this is that we use up these solar-energy byproducts faster than Mother Nature can make them.

The direct infrared energy of the sun can heat up solid materials like concrete, brick, block, stone or water. Mother Nature is giving us energy each day for free, we just have to discover how to use it more effectively.

My vision of how solar power might work in the future is fairly interesting. Well, I think it is interesting, but my kids think I am crazy. Try to clear your head, and focus your thoughts out into the future. Forget about costs for the moment.

Imagine a series of space stations floating above the earth that have large concave dishes that collect the direct rays of the sun. The parabolic dishes concentrate this solar power into beams of high-powered light, and focus them like laser beams to power plants that reside near the oceans, large rivers or lakes.

If a number of space stations are in Geo-synchronous orbit, the stations that may be in the shadow of the earth get solar power passed to them by the stations that are getting direct rays from the sun. I am confident engineers can figure out a way to get solar energy to the power plants here on earth 24 hours a day no matter if it is dark, raining or snowing. I can see this high-powered beam of light cutting through clouds like a hot knife through butter.

My idea for this system comes from my days as a child. The light beam of solar power I envision is similar to that beam created by a magnifying glass, but much larger. Surely you have used a magnifying glass to start grass, paper or leaves on fire before. The heat from the concentrated rays of sunlight is intense. Tell me I am not the only mischievous kid to do that!

The solar power from the light beam is the heat source for boilers in the power plants. It takes the place of the fuel we now use such as coal, natural gas or nuclear energy. The solar power heats up the water in the boilers of the power plant creating steam which is then used to run turbines that create electricity. But wait, it gets better.

The power plants near the ocean use this energy to boil ocean water. After the steam has run through the turbines, it can be used as low-pressure steam to run manufacturing plants near the power plants. It can even be used to heat homes and businesses that might be near the power facilities.

Once the steam condenses back to water, it is no longer salt water. The solar power has now not only created electricity, but has also created vast amounts of fresh water that can be used for drinking, recreation or manufacturing purposes.

Pure oxygen and hydrogen can then be created from this water by taking the free electricity coming off the generators and injecting the electrical current into the water. Anyone who remembers their high school chemistry class knows that this electrolysis will readily transform the liquid water into pure hydrogen and oxygen.

The hydrogen can be used as fuel for cars and the oxygen can be used for all sorts of things. The best part about burning hydrogen in cars is that it creates clean energy. Once the hydrogen burns it exhausts water vapor which then condenses and turns back into liquid water.

The best part about this fantasy of mine is that we already know how to do everything except get the space stations up there and working. There might also be a small problem with airplanes flying through the light beams. I haven't figured out a fool-proof way to stop airplanes from getting fried by the light beam. That is a job for the engineers, as I am just the idea guy.

But let's dial back into today and see how I am really using solar power, since I don't think my vision of the future will happen in my lifetime, if it even happens that way at all. My ideas may turn out to be impractical or too costly. Someone else may figure out a much better way to use solar power.

I installed a great attic ventilation fan that operates using solar power. The best part about the fan is that the solar panel is not directly attached to the fan. This allows you to place the fan on your roof so it will not be seen from the street and still work. The solar panel is then put in a different location where it is exposed to the maximum amount of solar radiation. People who live above the earth's equator would want the solar panel to face south. People who live below the equator would want the panel to face north.

The solar panel comes with enough wire so it can be 12 feet away from the fan. But the manufacturer tells me the panel can be located up to 100 feet away if you need to separate the fan from the panel. You simply have to splice extra low-voltage wire to the existing wire that is coming out of the solar panel. If you decide to locate the solar panel more than 25 feet from the fan, you must increase the gauge of the wire to account for the voltage drop.

I plan to incorporate solar power into the next home I build. That will be in New Hampshire. There are many sunny days up there, and my house will be built on a magnificent slope that faces south. If you are looking to buy land and want to use solar power, be sure the lot faces the right direction.

Column EM0046

Plumbing Consulting

Posted on September 18, 2006 by Tim Carter

Cast Iron Plumbing Stack | Here's a 4-inch no-hub cast iron plumbing stack that branches off to two different full bathrooms. I installed this in my daughter's Bar Harbor home in 2019. I used cast iron because it's quiet. You can't hear any water rushing down the wall or across the ceiling when someone flushes a toilet. Copyright 2021 Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I have two large projects I am tackling; a renovation of an existing home and a new home. The local laws permit me to do my own plumbing design and installation for both jobs, so I need some plumbing consulting help. I have done diy plumbing work, but never something on this scale.

I am up for the challenge. What advice do you offer in this situation? Dana Z., Texas City, TX

DEAR DANA: I have a boatload of plumbing consulting advice for you. The best part is if you need help, I can call you on the phone and consult with you about how to install plumbing or answer any plumbing questions.

CLICK or TAP HERE to order a plumbing phone consult.

Because I have 30-plus years of building and plumbing experience, I think I can give you both a high and low-altitude perspective on what you are about to face. I've been doing plumbing plans consulting for decades and each week I draw plumbing isometric drawings and riser diagrams for homeowners and builders.

To cut to the chase, I think you will get into serious trouble if you try to do both jobs at the same time. If you are able to stagger the jobs so your focus is just on one set of problems, then you very likely will succeed. But be prepared for some mental and physical triage as you will receive some bruises and bumps from going around all of the new learning curves.

This convoluted assembly of pipes was installed by a licensed master plumber. You may be able to get professional results as a do-it-yourselfer, if you get help from a consulting plumber. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

Tim, are You a Master Plumber?

For what it is worth, I happen to be a licensed master plumber. This designation was obtained through lots of hard work and formal testing. But the truth be told, you do not always have to be a master plumber to successfully install drainage and supply lines in your projects that will not only pass code, but will also perform flawlessly for many years.

Why are Plumbers Licensed?

Plumbers are licensed because they are responsible for keeping millions of people healthy

To protect public health, good laws are in place in many cities and states. These laws typically cover the installation of plumbing systems where one person is hired by another to do the work. Good plumbing design is critical as serious and deadly diseases can be readily spread if either plumbing drainage or supply lines are improperly installed. This is why plumbing inspections are mandatory, and you must pass them with flying colors.

What Plumbers do Plumbing Consulting?

I offer plumbing consulting services and some other ones do too. CLICK or TAP HERE to get FREE BIDS from local plumbers who will consult with you.

There is a very good chance you will find a plumber who will do plumbing consulting for you. Times are much different than they were years ago when plumbers and other tradespeople jealously guarded their secrets and tips. But some plumbers have seen the light, and know they can sell the knowledge from their brains just as easily as they sell the sweat from their brows.

What Plumbing Tools are Best?

The best plumbing tools are the ones you'll use the most. Here's a partial list. Let's talk tools for starters. You may have shovels and some simple saws that will allow you to work with plastic poly-vinyl chloride (PVC) pipe, but my guess is you do not own a heavy-duty right-angle drill and special bits to bore large-diameter holes through lumber. Yes, they can be rented, but it may make better sense to buy one. Clean cuts on the PVC piping can be made with a standard power miter-box saw.

What Tools are Needed to Work with Copper Water Lines?

When you start to work with water supply lines, you need a different set of tools if you are working with copper tubing. Acetylene torches, numerous tubing cutters and other small tools are needed to install water lines. Suffice it to say that you may find yourself investing hundreds of dollars in new tools to do this work.

Do I Need to Know the Plumbing and Building Codes?

Not only are there plumbing codes to deal with, you must pay very close attention to the regular building code. Do not start boring large holes into structural framing lumber without making sure you are allowed to do so. Cutting joists, notching them or altering any framing lumber can have serious negative consequences. Pay attention to the fire-stopping aspect of the building code as well. You must be sure that all fire stops are maintained between floor levels.

Who Looks at My Plumbing Design?

The actual work to design and install the plumbing piping will need to be looked at by the person you hire to do your plumbing consulting. You need to make sure you understand the three-dimensional drawing of the plumbing system and how it relates to the actual finished piping. The sizes of the actual pipes are critical. The plumbing code covers much, if not all, of this, but the secrets and tips know by your plumbing consultant may help for a better job.

What are Plumbing Best Practices?

Here are some plumbing best practices you may learn as your plumbing consulting moves forward. Never install a hard 90-degree bend underground in a drainage line. The only place you can do this is at the base of a vertical plumbing stack. Even then, it might be better to install two 45-degree bends to create a 90-degree turn.

All horizontal pipes must slope, and I recommend 1/4 inch per foot of fall. This slope produces excellent drainage within the pipe. Provide numerous clean outs in case you do have to get into the system to remove a clog.

To provide great water flow in a normal house, make sure that the water lines feeding a group of fixtures is no less than 3/4 inch in diameter. For example, when you extend both cold and hot water to a bathroom, use 3/4 inch pipe. Once you are at the bathroom, then downsize the pipe to 1/2 inch for each fixture.

Consider installing a wonderful gravity hot-water recirculation loop so that you always have hot water at each fixture the moment you turn on a faucet.

Column 640

Privacy Fence

Posted on September 14, 2006 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I desperately need a privacy fence that will allow me to sit outdoors, and not make me feel like I am in an aquarium. Is a vinyl privacy fence the best one? How high should this fence be? What can I do to make the fence good-looking instead of a harsh exterior wall? Do you think it is possible for me to build a wood privacy fence by myself? Stephanie B., Narberth, PA

DEAR STEPHANIE: Once your new privacy fence is constructed, you are going to have a new comfort level when you are outdoors. I am also sensitive to neighbors who might watch me as I walk around my yard, work on my laptop on my own patio or sleep in my hammock. A privacy fence, or even short sections of fencing, can create cozy micro-environments within your yard that protect you from prying eyes of neighbors or strangers.

This privacy fence does not extend the entire property line. It is just a 25-foot-long barrier that creates a cocoon of solitude for my neighbor's patio and screened porch. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

Many privacy fences are usually only 6 feet tall. You may be able to construct a privacy fence around the entire perimeter of your yard, but my guess is that it may only be effective if you live on top of a hill. If the lots around your home are higher than yours, then people above you may have a line of sight that allows them to see you as they look over the top of the fence. This is why a smaller privacy fence near the location you are sitting, sunbathing or snoozing often works best.

Before you run to the lumber yard or fencing store to buy materials, stop by your local government offices. Locate the zoning department. Many zoning codes regulate fences of all types. Not only is the height of fencing an issue, the fencing material and the direction the fence faces is often covered within the code. Zoning codes can be highly restrictive when it comes to fencing. Also be sure there are no subdivision or neighborhood association rules that might govern privacy fences.

Your choices of materials for the privacy fence are many. Wood, vinyl and metal immediately come to my mind. But there is a more natural fencing material many people often overlook - evergreen bushes and trees. One of the advantages of using bushes and trees is that they are commonly a loophole with respect to most zoning codes. For example, your zoning code may not allow a fence over 4.5 or 6 feet tall. But you can readily purchase bushes or trees that will grow to over 20 or 30 feet in height. The trick is to plant the bushes and/or trees close to one another, and select a variety that has dense vegetation.

These white pine trees make a great privacy fence in my yard. There are actually four trees that are staggered. The barrier would be ideal if the deer would not eat the tender shoots off the lower branches! PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

To me, evergreen bushes or trees make a gorgeous privacy fence. I have a row of staggered white pine trees in my own yard that create a wonderful sense of privacy. But, if you decide to build a traditional fence with wood or some other material, you can add beauty with flower boxes that sit on top of the fence or hang on the face of the fence that you see. Plant flowers or vines that overflow from the boxes towards the ground so you have a waterfall of color when the plants are in bloom.

If you decide to build a traditional privacy fence, I feel you can do the job by yourself. Each piece of the fencing system is not too heavy, and the process of constructing the fence is not complicated. But wind is your enemy. A privacy fence not built well, can be blown over by strong wind gusts. The main fence posts need to extend into the soil at least 2 feet for privacy fences that are 6 feet or less in height.

If you use wood, be sure to choose a species that is rot-resistant. Otherwise, select wood that has been chemically treated to resist rot and damage from insects. All wood fencing materials should be treated with a synthetic-resin water repellent or painted. If you decide to paint your wood privacy fence, the paint job will last a long time if you paint all pieces of wood after they are cut to length but before they are installed.

If you fully paint all surfaces of each piece of wood used in the privacy fence, water will have a hard time soaking into the wood. Water that gets into unprotected wood is the primary reason paint peels from wood fencing. Be sure to use stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized fasteners to attach the wood fencing. You don't want rust to spoil all of your hard work.

Before you go to all of the trouble to build or plant a privacy fence, erect a test one to see how effective it will be. This can be done with some old bed sheets and a few temporary sticks that are placed in plastic one-gallon milk bottles filled with water. Do this on a calm day with little or no wind.

The purpose of this is to just show where the starting and stopping points of the privacy fence need to be. Don't hesitate to put a few 90 or 45-degree bends in your design to cut off viewing angles, and to add interest to your design. Picture in your mind those old-fashioned accordion changing screens people used in movies and television shows when actors would change clothes in a scene.

Column 639

Garden Stepping Stones

Tim, are You a Master Plumber?

Why are Plumbers Licensed?

What Plumbers do Plumbing Consulting?

What Plumbing Tools are Best?

What Tools are Needed to Work with Copper Water Lines?

Do I Need to Know the Plumbing and Building Codes?

Who Looks at My Plumbing Design?

What are Plumbing Best Practices?

Expert Advice For Your Home