One of the small jobs I did last year was to install a folding attic ladder for an old customer. He just wanted a simple means by which to gain access to his attic. The intent was to store Christmas decorations and other lightweight articles that were taking up space in his first-floor area.

He asked me to keep the cost of the project to a minimum. I, in turn, asked him how often he thought he would use the ladder. He stated that six times a year would be the average usage. Based upon this number, I chose to use an inexpensive attic ladder system. I told him that I would install a very basic system. He understood and looked at the assembly before I cut the rough opening. It turns out that everyone was satisfied. He feels the ladder is adequate and I feel comfortable that the ladder will serve him well for the next 10 to 15 years.

Wide Variety of Systems

There is a big difference in types of attic access systems. Many people are familiar with the type I put in for my friend. They allow you to get up and down, but that is about it. Did you know that you can purchase aluminum folding ladders? Did you know that you can get a true disappearing stairway?

Watch this video to see a true disappearing stairway that's strong and safe:

One that has a singular one-piece stairway that glides into position with the pull of a chord? These disappearing stairways are very similar to the regular stairs you use in your house now. Most people have never seen these beauties!

The Angle of Inclination

The inexpensive attic folding ladders are tough to navigate. Why? Because they are designed to operate at an angle similar to a ladder you would put up to paint. The angle of inclination of most folding attic ladders is 64 degrees. This may not seem like much to you. Trust me, it is steep. A regular staircase is usually between 40 and 45 degrees. The true disappearing stairways split the difference. They have an angle of inclination that can range between 53 and 57 degrees.

Self-Regulated Industry

For many years the attic access ladder and stairway companies operated with no regulations whatsoever. As you can imagine this makes for a wide variety of quality and safety standards.

Recently the industry has agreed to author a set of minimum standards. These standards are currently awaiting approval by one of the major standards institutes. When these standards become effective, it will help to provide the consumer with a set of rules by which to judge the winners from the losers. I don't expect these standards to be ready until late in 1997.

The standards will probably be somewhat confusing for the average homeowner. However, I'm convinced that the net result will be stairways that support a minimum load, quite possibly 300 lbs. The treads and stringers of the stairways will have to be a minimum size and specific grade of lumber.

There will always be stair companies that build below and above the standards. Building above the standards always means higher cost. If you want a really good set of attic steps before the standards go into effect, use price as a guideline. I'm confident that you will get a great stairway or folding ladder if you spend in excess of $200.

The Fine Points

When shopping for an attic stairway or folding ladder look at the fine points. Look for thick treads and stringers. A thickness in excess of 3/4 inch is preferred. Look for metal rods beneath the treads. These rods stiffen each tread. Pay attention to the thickness of the hardware, hinges, springs, etc. Heavier hardware will perform for longer periods of time. Read the warranties. You might find that one is much stronger than another.

Measurements are Critical

When shopping for attic stair systems, pay attention to the dimensions. Some models want the dimension from the floor to the ceiling. Others want the measurement from the attic floor to the floor below. Be sure you check to see if the floor below is level! Anticipate where the folding ladder will hit in relationship to the ceiling or attic above. This is the measurement you are looking for.

If you do this job yourself, be sure to sit down and read the instructions twice before opening your toolbox. If you do not understand a step, call the manufacturer or ask for help.

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Attic Stairway Installation Tips - Rough Openings

Do you want to add a stairway to an existing space? A folding or disappearing attic stairway is a great way to get up and down in a limited amount of space. The ceiling opening for these stair systems varies from model to model. However, the common inexpensive folding attic ladder usually fits in a space 22 inches wide by 54 inches long. You can buy true disappearing attic stairs that require an opening of 30 inches wide by 8 feet long. The opening size is a function of the length of the ladder or stairway.

Creating an Opening in a Finished Ceiling

How do you create a rectangular opening for an attic access system? If you have a prefabricated truss roof, it is a breeze. Why? Because you can't cut a truss! You simply will fit the stairway between the trusses. If you have a common framed roof or attic and your ceiling/attic floor joists are 16 inches on center, then we have to do some carpentry. Let's get to work.

When you decide to cut a ceiling joist or attic floor joist, you change the dynamics of the structure to a slight degree. The load which was being carried by that singular, cut joist must be transferred to the joist on either side. To accommodate the added load, you need to add a joist alongside each uncut joist on either side of the cut joist. Adding this joist is not always easy. Electrical wires may pass through the joist system. Floor boards may have to be pulled up. It may even be a challenge to get the floor joist up to the attic!

If in doubt, you can call a structural engineer to get a professional opinion. It may save you some work, especially if there are nearby walls in the close vicinity of the proposed stairway. These walls may easily carry the load or the existing attic floor joists may be oversized.

Creating the Opening

You can't always trust that attic floor joists will be square or parallel/perpendicular with second floor walls. As such, you need to draw on the ceiling below where you want the stairway. Center the rough opening dimensions given to you by the stairway company on the ceiling. The rough opening refers to the opening you create with the rough framing lumber or attic floor joists. It is usually 1/2 inch bigger in width and length than the actual stairway assembly.

Be SURE that you have checked to see where the stairway will end up in the attic. You don't want to walk up the ladder or stairway directly into a wall or other obstacle in the attic.

You also need to be aware of the clearances required by the folding ladders when they unfold. The folding ladders always fold out farther than the rough opening. Put the rough opening too close to a wall and you may not be able to unfold the ladder!

Check the rough opening you have drawn for square. It must be square for the stairway to fit! It is square when the diagonals from opposite corners are equal. Use an accurate framing square to layout the opening and you should be very close.

With the rough opening drawn on the ceiling, proceed to drive a 16 penny nail up into the attic at each corner of the stairway opening. Look in the attic to see where the nails end up. Be sure there are no wires, pipes, ducts etc. in your way. If the area is clogged with utilities, maybe you should re-think the access location.....

If you like the location, use a sawzall or other saw to cut out the opening. Do whatever you can to stay on the line you have drawn. This will help you frame in the opening in the attic.

Frame the opening using the same size floor joists as are currently present in the attic. You may have to double up the joists that carry loads from other joists! Use joist hangers to attach the joists that run into one another at a 90 degree angle. Do not use roofing nails! Use structural joist hanger nails.

Be sure that all of the joists you install are vertical or plumb. Use a framing square or level to make plumb lines. The rough opening at the ceiling must equal the rough opening in the attic.

An attic ladder can be very heavy. You will not be able to hold it in place and attach it by yourself or with a helper holding it. You have to create a little ledge for the stairway to rest on as you attach it to the rough framing members. This ledge must not extend too far beyond the rough opening. If it does, the flush panel will be flush with the ceiling. In most instances, you want the stairway frame flush, not the panel. Check your directions to see. With the frame flush, you can trim out the stairway much like the doorways and windows throughout your home. Look at those and you will see what I mean.

Fastening the Stairway to the Rough Opening

Think of how much the stairway assembly, you, and all the boxes you will carry up into the attic weigh. If you use wimpy finish nails or drywall screws to attach the stairway assembly to the rough opening, you are a FOOL! Read the directions. Most manufacturers require 16 penny nails and/or 1/4 inch lag bolts. Drill holes for these fasteners so you do not crack the frame. Drilling is important. The frame may not crack now, but may at a later date as attic temperatures cook and fry the lumber.

Trimming Folding Ladder Stringers

The biggest challenge may be making accurate cuts on the bottom of folding ladder stringers. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure this out. It simply takes patience.

Most folding ladders are in three sections. The bottom section is the one that has to be trimmed to fit. You do this by opening the ladder and folding down the second section. Leave the third section folded back on the second section.

Take a regular steel tape measure. Slide it along the top edge of the stair stringer. Note the measurement at the end of the second stringer, when it finally touches the floor. Do this on both sides. Unfold the ladder's third section. Measure down the stringer from the hinge point. Make a mark. Do this same procedure on the bottom of the ladder as well. The bottom measurement had better be less than the top measurement. If not, you have goofed up some how. If you have anxiety about making the cut, do a test cut on a similar sized piece of scrap lumber. Make sure it is the same width as the stringer. Cut the test piece and place it where the third section would be. If it works, trace its shape onto the stringer!

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Manufacturers of Attic Access Stairways/Ladders

Are you disappointed with your current folding attic ladder? I don't blame you. Many of them are dangerous and poorly constructed. The fact is that many of the folding ladders have a useful life of 15 years or less! Many of the manufacturers will make this claim. In fact, they make this claim in court documents quite often. If you want a long lasting attic access stairway or folding ladder, you will have to do some research.

Check out the web sites of the following manufacturers. Here is what to look for in the literature:

Compare the actual thickness and width of the treads and the stringers (sides of ladder). Check the weight bearing capacity of the system you are interested in. Be sure you remember to add your body weight or that of the heaviest person in your family to what you intend to carry up the ladder! Check the rough-in width. Make sure it will fit in between your trusses or existing opening. Pay attention to insulation features. Is the stairway cover insulated? Is there a way to do it? Look at price. The saying "You get what you pay for" is true! Beware of low pricing.......

• American Stairways Inc.

• Bessler Stairway Co.
  Bessler is a division of American Stairways Inc. Bessler is the manufacturer of the true one-piece attic stairway. They make models for both new construction and ones that replace existing rickety folding stairs. I have used these products and feel they are worth the extra money. Very sturdy!
• Louisville Ladder
• Marwin, Inc.
• Memphis Folding Stairs
• Rintal, Inc.
• Stira
• Werner Ladder

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Protect Your Ears from Hearing Loss

You just can't imagine the frustration my wife has with me at times. If there is any background noise in a room, I can't hear what she says. If I am washing my hands at the sink and she is in the kitchen, I often just hear a jumbled alphabet soup of words coming from her mouth. For years, I have said that she speaks too softly. She says she doesn't. I know for a fact that the problem is mine. I have partial permanent hearing loss in my right ear. I'm sure my left ear is not 100 percent as well.

What is Excess Noise?

The Occupational Safety and Health Administration says that employers must offer a variety of hearing protection to employees who are exposed to noise that averages 85 decibels (dBA) over an 8 hour period. The key to hearing damage is the level of sound intensity and the length of time the noise is being produced. For example, a car horn can produce 120 dBA noise. If you hear a car horn for 10 seconds straight, you will probably experience no hearing damage whatsoever. However, honking the horn straight for 8 hours and you could be in serious trouble. It doesn't take long to hurt your hearing. For example, exposure to noise at 115 dBA can cause damage in just 15 minutes. Exposing your ears to 130 dBA noise for just 2 minutes can be very hazardous to your hearing.

Extremely loud blast type noises from explosives can cause instantaneous damage. Eardrums can be ruptured. Evolution has yet to take into account the discovery of gunpowder and nitroglycerin...

A Cumulative Effect

All noise above 85 decibels will do damage to your ears. Many regular daily noises are above that range. If you experience damage, you may just kill a few hair cells at a time in your inner ear. Slowly, but surely, it will take greater sound levels to adequately stimulate the auditory nerve that leads to your brain. Permanent hearing loss can't be reversed by pills, hearing aids, therapy or surgery. Once you destroy too many hair cells, you are out of luck. I am trying to do everything in my power to save what hair cells I have left. I want to be able to hear my grand children without having to use a hearing aid. It may be too late. When I do seminars, I often have to cup my hand over my ear to amplify a person's voice. I think I have major problems.

Watch Your Children!

Children's ears are more sensitive than adults. It takes less noise to cause damage. Little children are especially susceptible. Knowing what I now know, I would not allow my kids to have a baby rattle. Those little toys create dBA readings up to 135! Hearing loss in children can lead to learning disabilities. They may not be able to hear teachers or their attention span can drop. If your child is having problems, I might suggest a simple hearing test to see if that is the root of the problem.

Try to limit the exposure to loud music, firecrackers or any other loud noises. If your kids help you when you work, be sure they have ear plugs just like you. Don't let them near you when you cut the grass. Your lawn mower creates vast amounts of loud noise.

How to Protect Your Ears

I have used ear muffs for a long time to protect my ears against loud noises. They seemed to work fine. However, I had no idea how effective they might be. The research I did for this column taught me about the Noise Reduction Rating. This is a simple method to rate how much noise a device might block. The higher the rating number, the better job the ear protection offers.

It turns out that some of the best hearing protection devices are the simplest. These are the really nifty disposable foam ear plugs. Before I wrote this column and Builder Bulletin, I used to think these things were worthless. It turns out they offer the best protection.

I think it is based upon the fact that when inserted correctly into your ear canal they simply block all air passageways leading to your ear drum. That is the key. My old earmuffs probably didn't fit that well and allowed air to seep past the rubber gaskets.

The best way to protect your ears is to purchase a variety of ear protection devices. You may find one brand or style that is very comfortable. You want to use something that causes virtually no discomfort. If your ear plugs irritate you, you might be tempted to take them off. They don't do any good when they are off!

The disposable ones are so inexpensive that they can be thrown away after each use. I happen to use silicone rubber plugs that are connected by a string. I use them over and over. They are easy to insert and offer a noise reduction factor very close to that achieved by the disposable foam earplugs.

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40 Assorted Noises and Their Decibel Level

Did you know that mathematics would be part of learning about hearing loss and noise? Unfortunately, decibels are a unit of measure on a logarithmic scale. What does this mean? If you compared the sound of a jet engine to that of a rustling leaf, you would need to keep track of a lot of zeros!

Here is why. To compare one sound against another, you can use the sound intensity ratio. This is how you would compare sounds on a one-to-one basis. A rustling leaf produces a sound intensity of about 10. A jet engine produces a sound intensity of 100,000,000,000,000! That's 100 trillion!!!

If you use decibels, you can get rid of the zeros at the high end of the scale. Our leaf produces a noise level of 10 decibels, believe it or not. But by using a logarithmic scale, the same jet engine noise is 140 decibels. The logarithmic scale for decibels means that for each increase in decibels by 10, the actual sound intensity has increased ten times.

Let's think of it in another fashion. Say you have a 60 decibel noise. That might be the noise created by ordinary conversation between two people. Two other people start talking right next to you and your friend. Does that mean you have 120 decibels? No. The actual decibel level of the four people talking at the same time would be about 63 decibels.

The truth about noise - in my opinion - is that you generally know when something is loud. If you have to raise your voice to be heard, you are very near the risk zone. If you have to shout to be heard, you could well be in the danger or harmful range. People who already have hearing loss are in the greatest danger. Since loud noise to them sounds like regular noise! That is why you need to wear hearing protection. You don't want to get cumulative hearing damage over a period of time like me.

Note the decibel levels below. Any noise above 85 decibels puts you in the risk zone. Noises above 115 decibels puts you in the harmful range. At 140 decibels and above, you should be experiencing pain.

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Hearing Protection Equipment and Manufacturers

Noise is produced when something vibrates. The vibrations then, in turn, vibrate the air creating sound waves. Sound and noise waves travel through air. The air can actually vibrate objects and recreate the noise. This is why you can hear sounds through a hollow core door. The door actually recreates the vibrations. Have you ever noticed that you can't hear outside noise when inside a concrete block building or a basement? This is because the air vibrations have a really tough time vibrating the concrete or block walls. Since they don't vibrate, you don't hear sounds or noise. Thus to stop noise you either have to eliminate the air pathway to your ear or increase the mass around your ears.

To block noise from getting into your ear, it is best to try to stop the air from getting to your eardrum. This is best achieved by using ear plugs or ear muffs of some sort. If you travel much by airplane and see those ground crew people who work around aircraft, you see them all wear ear muffs. Some probably have ear plugs installed as well.

Several companies make industrial quality ear protection that is available for homeowners. They actually publish a noise reduction rating on each ear protection product. This rating tells you how much noise the product will block. The tighter the fit inside your ear, the more air it can block. This is why the expandable foam ear plugs have the highest noise reduction rating. You can purchase some very inexpensive foam ear plugs with a rating as high as 31. They are sold by North Safety Products. High quality ear protection devices are inexpensive. Don't try to save $5 or so on a product you might see at a discount store. Do NOT buy any ear protection devices that do not have a Noise Reduction Rating printed clearly on the packaging. If you buy products that are not labeled, you have no idea how effective they might be. Call these two manufacturers. I know for a fact that they both make products that are labeled. You will not be disappointed in their quality!

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Selecting the Best Safe for Fire or Theft/Burglar Protection

Seasoned burglars can really ruin your day. Especially if they locate your well hidden wall or floor safe. Forget about placing a wall safe behind a picture on a wall. I mean, really......how many times have you seen that in spy or mystery movies! You are going to have to be much more inventive than that.

Don't even try to solve this problem on your own. Ask for and obtain information from security professionals. I would talk with people in your town who sell safes. I would then talk with the crime prevention officer of your local police AND county sheriff's office. There is nothing wrong with comparing notes from 3 or more sources when it comes to home safes and the storage of important papers and valuables.

Fire and Burglars

One of my favorite sayings is "Never under estimate the strength of your opponent." I feel this is very fitting in a discussion about fire and burglar safes. If you have ever been near a full-blown house fire you know the enormous power and fury of this beast. Fire is quick to kill and devours valuable papers, jewelry, etc. with astonishing speed. And if the fire doesn't destroy your valuable items the fire's smoke or the superheated steam created by firefighting efforts will.

The heat created in the first five minutes of a growing fire is impressive. Papers and documents will be consumed so fast it will make your head spin. Don't think for a minute that papers in a metal fire cabinet are safe. They simply are incinerated inside the cabinet as the fire turns the file cabinet into a giant toaster.

Television and movie depictions of burglars are not too far from the truth. All you have to do is talk with your local police chief or top crime prevention officer. They will have countless stories about slick, professional burglars who can work with speed and efficiency.

If you think that a simple locked box or combination lock will stop them, you better wake up from your dream before it turns into a nightmare. This is especially true, if you happen to store lots of valuables in and around your home. Remember, that professional burglars will possibly case you and your home for weeks or months. They will attempt to uncover your living patterns and take advantage of them.

The point is simple. If you decide to take on fire and burglars on your own terms, you better have the absolute best protection you can afford. Before you buy, take the product brochure to your local fire and/or police officials and ask them if your selection will offer the level of protection you are seeking. Remember, these individuals see the failures in the field. They know what and what does not work.

Testing

When you start to make up your mind about what safe or storage box you will buy, you may be presented with some strange looking test numbers and letters. There are all kinds of tests that fire and burglar safes can be subjected to. Ask the company you are buying from to clearly explain the test and how difficult it is. Always ask if there are more stringent or tougher tests. If you are buying a safe that withstands the toughest attacks and/or exposure then you should be fairly comfortable.

The Juicy Information

Do you know where some of the greatest information is found about products? It is in trade publications. These are the invisible or hidden magazines that you don't find at news stands. There are literally hundreds if not thousands of these magazines. Your local library will possibly have access to them. If not, they most certainly will have an index that lists all of the titles.

Well guess what? There just happens to be one for safes! It is called Safe and Vault Technology. This particular magazine happens to be the official publication of the Safe and Vault Technicians Association. These are the people who work on safes and vaults.

These magazines often contain some fairly dry articles, but they often contain comparison studies and some great inside information. Safe and Vault Technology may be a tough trade publication to find. Its distribution may be restricted due to the sensitive subject matter.

If you have trouble locating this magazine, you might contact them at the following address. If that doesn't work, see if you can't locate past issues through your local safe sales company..

• Safe and Vault Technology
  3003 Live Oak Street
  Dallas, Texas 75204-6189

Related Articles: Fire and Burglar Safes, Document Storage Tips, Fire & Burglar Resistant Safes, Safe Purchasing Guidelines

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Guidelines For Purchasing Fire & Burglar Resistant Safes

Determine Your Needs

What kind of protection do you need? Full security or just fire protection? This question must be answered before you go any further.

Testing Agency Labels

Some safes that do not carry labels can still offer excellent protection. Independent testing by well known labs can be extremely expensive to initiate and maintain. These labels and the tests performed also mean different things. Make sure you have a clear understanding of the test passed and the prominence of the testing lab.

Beware of Used Safes

Older record safes like you see in the movies or on TV Westerns are called record safes. These can have very primitive locks that a seasoned burglar can defeat in minutes. Also, many of these old record safes offer little, if any, fire protection.

Steel Differences

All steel is not the same. Some safes come with thick steel. Thicker is not necessarily better. Some steels are much harder than others and can only be cut with carbide tools or torches. Read the literature from all manufactures about hardened steel.

Concealed Hinges

Perhaps the easiest way in any door is to pop the hinges. You can do this to get into a locked bathroom or into a safe. Top of the line safes offer concealed hinges. The best safes give no hint from the outside which way the door even swings. This can frustrate a burglar.

Locking Mechanisms

Pay attention to the manner in which the safe door locks. Are there multiple lock points? The more the better. Some safes offer locking points at the four corners of the door. This makes it tough to "peel" the door corners for easy entry.

Non-Metal Fire Safes?

Yes, you can get protection from fire without having to use standard steel. Don't pass by a fire storage safe that appears flimsy or made from a combustible material. Many new materials are actually safe in fires.

Warranty

Pay attention to warranties. Some of them are excellent life-time warranties in the event the safe is damaged by fire or burglary attempts.

Electronic Media Storage

Not all fire safes offer protection for magnetic disks and tapes. You have to purchase special safes for this purpose.

Wall and Floor Safes

I have installed these but in very strange places. These safes can offer you great protection, but only if you think you can outsmart a seasoned burglar.

Related Articles: Fire and Burglar Safes, Document Storage Tips, Fire & Burglar Resistant Safes, Selecting a Safe

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Fire and Burglar Resistant Safes

This is a fascinating category of products. Why? Because there are so many different models, types, and price points. There is a product for everyone, that is for sure. However, the average homeowner will have much better luck purchasing a fire safe than one that will foil a burglar. The reason for this is the cost of the real burglar resistant safes. The large, top of the line models that will really keep your items safe can cost in excess of $15,000! My guess is that you will pay an additional $1,000 just to get the darn thing into your house! These are for the wealthy or those who just hit the $30 million lottery...... The rest of us should depend on bank vault safe deposit boxes for our most valuable and treasured objects.

You may be able to find a small burglar safe that you can somehow hide in your house, but remember, professional burglars will very likely be able to find the location. They often know where to look. Also, if you choose to store valuables, keep in mind that burglars don't have to break into the safes at your home. If they can be lifted and carried away, the safe that is, the burglar will take the safe to his house and open it there. Small home safes need to be encapsulated in masonry or made very heavy so the burglar must work and make noise at your home to gain entry.

Fire resistant safes are another story. Many of these products are quite affordable and come with test certifications that should give you a great sense of security. The trick in my opinion is to store these things low in your house. Fires tend to produce heat and heat rises. I would not put my fire safe in an attic. I would also not store it on the basement floor or near the floor. Flooding or 4 feet of fire hose water in a basement can ruin a fire storage box that is not water tight or the water seal has been damaged by the heat of the fire. I would build a 4 foot high pedestal from concrete block and set the fire safe on top. I would then surround the fire safe with 4 inches of solid masonry to act as a heat sink. This sounds like overkill, I know, but I have seen fire ravaged houses. I have also seen flooded basements. If this is too much work, then I guess you better get a large safe deposit box...that is if one is available......

Call the listed manufacturers and ask for product literature. I would also ask for any and all other literature about testing procedures and comparisons to similar products. You will be amazed at the color literature you receive!

Last Word On Burglar Resistant Safes

The price range for burglar resistant safes ranges from $300 to more than $15,000. The low cost models are undoubtedly well made. But I want you to use common sense. If a burglar can lift, roll, transport your safe from your house, do you think he will succeed in opening it?

If you want REAL security in your own home, you are going to have to pay for it. This means a well made, heavy safe that can't be easily moved!

Related Articles: Fire and Burglar Safes, Document Storage Tips, Safe Purchasing Guidelines, Selecting a Safe

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Document Storage Tips

Valuable papers and documents often can't be replaced. If they can, it can be a hassle. No single option offers total protection. There are flaws in each system. Bank vaults and their safety deposit boxes are fine. But when the owner of the box dies, the box is sealed the NEXT morning by the bank officials! You can't get in! A federal tax lawsuit can also seal these boxes.

I suggest you make photo copies of all important papers and documents. Then develop 2 or 3 storage places at different locations. If you store at home, you must use a fire safe storage box for paper. Anything else will not withstand the heat and intensity of a typical house fire. Talk to police and fire officials in your community. Ask them for advice. They know the best places to hide things. The fire chief will tell you the absolute best place to locate your fire safe.

Related Articles: Fire and Burglar Safes, Fire & Burglar Resistant Safes, Safe Purchasing Guidelines, Selecting a Safe

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