Metal Roofing Cost Examples

The following is a verbal description of some different metal roofs that were applied to residential houses. Note the relationship between the size of the roof area (square feet) and the cost per square foot. Sometimes as the roof gets bigger, the cost per square foot goes down. Also, roofs that have lots of angles and lots of dormers, sidewalls, chimneys, etc. that require flashing will obviously cost much more. Use these numbers as only a ROUGH pricing guide. Every job is different and the same roofing system will cost different amounts in different parts of the nation due to varying labor costs, freight costs and methods of distribution. To find a quality roofer who can install the product, FIRST select the roof you desire to use. Then call the manufacturer and find out who is qualified in your area to install that roof. Do NOT have a roofer install a metal roof system as "on the job" training! in other words, make sure the roofer you choose has - in fact - worked with the material before. The cost examples below are actually award-winning roofs. Each year the trade publication Metal Home Digest has a competition. The roofs below were announced in the July/August 1998 edition of the magazine. If you want to see photos, check out the magazine's website!

Example #1

A two story single family house in Eads, Tennessee. The roof pitch is moderate to steep eight inches of rise for every 12 inches of run. The roof was made by Petersen Aluminum Corp. and is a concealed fastener type. The total roof area is 6,500 square feet. The cost for all labor and material was $4.50 per square foot.

Example #2

This house is in the Bahamas. Seven thousand square feet of metal roof was used primarily on low sloped open roofing. It was an easy roof to do. The roofing was a spruce color BattenLok made by MBCI. you know it has to be good to withstand hurricanes that are sure to test this roof. The total cost of labor and material for this product was $4.25 per square foot.

Example #3

This metal roof was installed in Gig Harbor, Washington. It is a low slope roof - 3.5 inches of rise for each foot of run. The roofing came from Custom-Bilt Metals. The roof is wide open with just two chimneys and a few plumbing stacks popping through the roof. This roof was 3,500 square feet in size and came in at a reasonable $2.50 per square foot for labor and material.

Example #4

Would you believe 240,000 square feet of metal roof on 81 homes? It was all done with DuraLoc Simulated shake roofing in San Diego, CA. The attractive roofing material does not look like metal at all from the ground. Total cost = $3.25 per square foot.

Related Articles:  Metal Roofing - Good Looking, Metal Roofing Products,  Residential Metal Roofing

Column B237

Maintaining a Roof and Shingles

Unless you live or travel to parts of the deep South, you may not be aware of how bad roofs can get stained with dirt, mildew and roof algae. I have seen algae-stained roofs in the Midwest, but they are nothing like those I have seen down South. It is an epidemic down there.

What's more, people generally consider roofs to be maintenance free. Sure you have to replace them every 15 to 20 years, but in between those times, one should not have to do anything. Well that may or may not be true, depending upon how well your roof was installed.

Check it Out

It is a good idea to get up a ladder and look at your roof from time to time. Things can happen. A series of storms can take its toll on the average roof. Nails can work loose. Flashings can rust. Things can and do wear out. If you can't safely get up on your roof, then hire a responsible roofer to do the inspection. Ask them to take digital or instant photos to show you the defects, once they get back on the ground. You will be able to see the problems for yourself.

Avoiding Problems

Roof leaks happen at the worst times. I have never seen one on a sunny day! At the height of a rain storm or several days after a heavy snow fall, water can stream into your home. This is not the time to get up on a roof to try to fix a leak. Cut the problem off at the pass.

Most roof leaks happen at flashings. Flashings are roofing system components that connect actual roofing materials to things that are not a roof. You will find flashings wherever something sticks up through a roof or butts up next to a roof. Look for them at plumbing vent pipes, skylights, chimneys, walls, etc.

Flashings are not easy to install. Rookie roofers often have problems because they lack proper training, skill and diligence. It takes time to fully understand how flashings work and how they are created, formed and installed.

Flashing Materials

I happen to prefer 40 pound tin or copper for my flashings. Both of these materials are easy to solder. Solder? You bet you need to solder flashings! When you form a counter flashing around a dormer corner or chimney corner, the only real way to get a tight seal is to solder the flashing at several spots. It is not hard to do, but you must solder nonetheless.

You can't solder aluminum - at least not easily. I have seen lots of aluminum flashing installed and it is caulked! I do not consider caulk to be a long lasting roofing material.

Beware of using aluminum in contact with brick or stone. The alkali compounds in mortar corrode aluminum. I would only use, tin, copper, galvanized steel or sheet lead to flash in contact with masonry surfaces.

Roof Safety

Roofs are dangerous places. I have fallen off them before. I am lucky to be alive and not broken up. But trust me, you can get seriously hurt in a roof fall. Death is a distinct possibility. Permanent disability is also a possibility.

If you are not confident of your roof walking / working skills, then do NOT get up on one. Even if you do get up, you must move slowly and think about what you are doing.

Wet roofs are highly dangerous. If you decide to clean your roof, then you must really be careful. Fall protection equipment is mandated by OSHA rules and it is a good idea to wear fall protection harnesses that are securely attached to the roof!

Related Column: Roof Maintenance

Column B374

Gutters and Gutter Hangers - Installation

Continuous aluminum gutters are absolutely the dominant rain handling device in the USA today. It is no wonder, as they are virtually maintenance free. You never have to worry about rust. They rarely require painting, unless you change the color of your home. They are indeed a great product.

Transport

I prefer to use Alcoa aluminum gutters. These come preformed from the factory and are available in lengths up to 36 or 37 feet. That is one long gutter. They come in smaller lengths as well. But don't think you are going to strap these things to the top of your car and drive home. They need to be supported and preferably protected from the wind. They will bend back on themselves if you drive too fast. I have transported them on top of a long ladder. Perhaps the best way is to simply pay the roofing supply company a reasonable delivery fee to bring them safely to your home.

Cutting Gutters

Believe it or not, I use my power miter box saw and an older somewhat dull blade to cut aluminum gutters. It makes a painful sound but the job gets done and the cut edge is very crisp and square. You can use a traditional hacksaw but be sure you use a blade with many teeth instead of an aggressive blade that has fewer teeth per inch.

If you use a power miter box saw as I do, be sure to bring the blade up to speed and drop the blade SLOWLY into the metal. Do not cut quickly. You must wear goggles as little bits of metal go flying all over the place.

Free & Fast Bids

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Consider purchasing a micromesh product from Amazon.com and having your local handyman install them for you. CLICK the photo below for just one of the micromesh products I discovered on Amazon:

There are many micromesh gutter guard products. You can save LOTS of money putting them on yourself. CLICK HERE or THE IMAGE to see how low-cost they can be.

Other Tools

Assembling aluminum gutter parts requires a power drill with an 1/8 inch bit, a pop rivet gun with aluminum rivets that match the color of the gutters, a hammer, a 1/2 inch sharp wood chisel and a hex nut driving tool to twist the screw on the hanger.

Assembly

I prefer to assemble the entire gutter on the ground and then lift it in place. You need to cut the gutter to length keeping in mind the small overhang of shingles at the edge of the roof. I made a mistake years ago and stopped my gutter just beyond my gutter board. My shingles extended about 1.5 inches beyond the end of the gutter. Each time it rained I would get a drip, drip, drip from the end of the roof. It was a big nuisance!

The gutters come with left and right end caps. They already have pre-drilled holes for the rivets. Pop the caps onto the end of the gutter and drill through the holes to make a matching hole in the gutter. Immediately install a rivet before proceeding to the next hole. Make sure the cap is tightly fitted before you drill into the gutter.

The Outlet Tube

Installing outlet tubes is the hardest part of the job. You must make sure you locate them in the right place with respect to the downspout location. I typically use a framing square on the wall below to translate the center line of the downspout up to the gutter board.

Once you know where the centerline of the outlet tube is in the gutter you can mark its location. Use the actual outlet tube as your template to draw the hole shape. Drop it upside down into the gutter and trace the inside outline of the hole.

Slide a scrap piece of 2x4 or other wood under the gutter at the location of the outlet tube. Make sure the gutter is not on pavement that will scratch the underside of the gutter. The block of wood allows you to use the wood chisel to cut the hole.

Note that the wood chisel has a flat black side and a taper or angled face. The angled face always should be facing to the inside of the outlet hole. Use the hammer to tap the wood chisel. It will cut through the aluminum. It may also slightly bend the bottom of the gutter as you cut the hole. Don't worry about this. Be sure you are cutting the right sized hole. The tolerances are very tight. Cut too small and the tube won't fit. Cut too large and there will be no gutter left at the pre-drilled holes in the outlet tube flange.

Once you have cut the hole, put the block of wood inside the gutter and use the hammer to flatten the bottom of the gutter. The drill and pop rivets are installed now. I prefer to have the rivet heads on the bottom of the gutter. The little dimple points will stick up inside the gutter but who cares.

The Sealant

Alcoa manufactures a special sealant that makes their systems leak proof. This product comes in squeeze tubes and is very sticky. It contains very flammable solvents that evaporate rapidly. The product skins over in just seconds so you must work quickly. I prefer to squirt the sealant into the cracks of the end caps while the gutter is on the ground. You can tilt the gutter slightly to get the sealant to the top of the cracks. After the end caps are finished, apply the sealant liberally over the flange of the outlet tube. Be sure to have it span over onto the gutter and seal each rivet.

Start at the Middle

Believe it or not, you can carry and install a 35 foot piece of gutter by yourself. The trick is to hold it in the middle so it is balanced. Position the ladder in the right place. Be sure no overhead electric lines will come in contact with the gutter. The gutter needs just a little bit of fall as it heads towards the outlet tube. You can't slope the gutter as you would a plumbing drain line. If you do, it will end up hanging below the gutter board.

Always install the gutter hangers at a rafter tail, unless you are lucky enough to have solid framing behind the entire length of the gutter board. This is a luxury. If you can paint your gutter board before installing the gutter, do so. Paint the entire surface of the board.

For color photos of screw type gutter hangers, click here.

Related Column:

Hanging Gutters Requires Skill

Column B402

Color Photos of Screw Type Gutter Hangers

The following two photos should give you a decent idea of how the screw type hanger works. Almost all aluminum gutters have a formed top front edge. The forming process imparts stability. Putting several closely spaced bends in the sheet aluminum gives it significant strength. Without the bends, the metal would be as flimsy as a wet noodle. The J shaped end of the hanger fits under the top front edge of the gutter and locks in place.

Column B402

DEAR TIM: I was having a discussion with a couple friends about installing a shingle roof. They both said the clear cellophane tape on the bottom of the shingle is to be removed before installation. I say that is an integral part of the bonding system and should be left on. What's the story?

Thanks,
Ron Tyson

DEAR RON: This is a fairly common question and I feel you will be surprised by the answer. Both you and your friends are wrong. The tape's sole purpose is to prevent the shingles from sticking to one another when they are stacked on top of one another in the pack.

You can clearly see the pieces of tape line up with the blobs of asphalt cement on the tops of the shingles. These dabs of asphalt cement indeed are the glue that allows the shingles to bond together once the roofing is installed. But think for a moment. When you install the shingles, the cellophane tape is five inches up the roof from the dabs of cement and it does nothing to help bond one shingle to another.

You do not have to remove the tape. That would be an enormous waste of time.

DEAR TIM: Thanks to Hurricane Frances I have to reroof. I got estimates from two licensed contractors, but they are giving me conflicting information regarding the type of shingles to use.

One tells me that I should use 3-Tab Shingles considering I have a gabled roof. He claims that the other type of shingle, the dimensional shingle, will cause water to be trapped under the shingle, for the slope of my roof is not steep enough. Also, I have a solar panel (for the water heater) on the roof. He said that it will have to be removed in order to reroof and then reattached.

The other company does not require the solar panel to be removed, nor expressed any concern about the dimensional shingle for my type of roof.

Could you please help me?

Thank you.
Monique Pengel
Loxahatchee, FL

DEAR MONIQUE: You must get the written installation instructions for each shingle you are considering. It will address the slope issue and what has to be done on low slope roofs. I don't agree with the roofer who says a dimensional shingle will trap water. There are new large underlayments you can use instead of tar paper that seal the house from water that gets under the shingles. Investigate those.

As for the solar panel, I would have to see a photo of how it is flashed. If it is similar to many skylights that have special engineered flashing kits, it would not have to be removed.

HELLO TIM:

My husband and I are planning to build a barn to look like the old ones. I would like the outside to look as if it has been on our dairy for a long time. I would like to know if there is some type of roofing material that resembles old rusty tin. Thank you,

Diana from California

HELLO DIANA:

You can replicate the metal roofing quite easily. There are any number of standing seam metal roofing products you can choose from. All you need to do is to find out if partially painting them to resemble a rusted roof will void the warranty.